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364 ABOUND THE WOELD. Sailing up the Mediterranean I saw Samos, — literally " sea-shore height." This island, at an early period of history, was a powerful member of the Ionic Confederacy. Pythagoras left it, to travel in foreign countries, under the government of Polycrates. A future view of this classic isle from St. Paul's prison and Mount Prion, around which was grouped ancient Ephesus, famed as the seat of the most eminent of the old Asian churches, was very fine. Not far distant was the beautiful island of Cos, with its mountainous peaks, vine-clad hillsides, and pleasant-appearing homes, embowered in evergreen foliage. And there peered above the horizon Patmos, sainted' Patmos, seat of John's visions and revelations. Banished from the world's bustle, and frequently in the " spirit on the Lord's Day," he became- the recipient of truths and illuminations that streamed in glory down through all the sunrise hours of the Christian dispensation. Determined to see the ruins of this old Ionian city, Ephesus, once noted for its commercial prosperity, for its stadium, theaters, and Temple of Diana, as well as for the place where the Apostle John spent his last years, I left Smyrna Nov. 7, 1870.* It was sixty miles distant to Isaalouke, a disagreeable Arab town. The English own this railway. An hour's ride on wretched horses dropped us doAvn with a party of pilgrims to the rim of the Ephesian ruins. The original city was evidently built around the base of Mount Prion. Crumbling remnants of custom-house and ware-houses are yet visible. But the Mediterranean waters have so receded, that bay, harbor, and landing have given place to a broad basin covered with grasses and weeds, through which winds a small serpentine stream. The employees of J. T. Wood were putting down shafts between Prion and St. John's * Descriptions in this volume relating to Smyrna, Ephesns, Constantinople, Rome, Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, &c., are taken from notes made during a previous visit to Europe, Turkey, and Asia Minor.
THE CHRISTIANITY OF THE AGES. 365 Church, in search of Diana's Temple, which was in process of completion when Alexander passed into Asia, 335 B.C. This temple was erected to succeed the one set on fire the night of Alexander's birth, 356 B.C. The labors of Mr. Wood were crowned with success ; and portions of those magnificent columns may now be seen in the British Museum, with the gods and goddesses of that period, beautifully modeled and chiseled. THE apostle's BURIAL-PLACE. A pilgrim under a scorching Asian sky, resting, I leaned upon one of the pillars that Christian and Moslem tradition unite in declaring marks the Apostle John's tomb. It was a consecrated hour. While standing by his tomb, on the verge of Mount Prion, .looking down upon the marbled seats of the Ephesian theater, — relic of Hellenic glory, — with my feet pressing the soil that once pillowed the mortal remains of the " disciple that Jesus loved," ere their removal to Rome, no painter could transfix to canvas, no poet conceive suitable words to express, my soul's deep emotions. The inspiration was from the upper kingdoms of holiness the baptism was from heaven ; the robe was woven by the white fingers of immortals ; while on the golden scroll was inscribed, ' The first cycle is ending : the winnowing angels are already in the heavens. Earth has no secrets. Wliat of thy stewardship? Who is ready to be revealed? Who^ who shall abide this second coming ? Who has overcome ? Who is entitled to the mystical name and the white stone ? armor aneiv, and teach in trumpet tones that the Crird on thine pure in heart, the pure in spirit only, can feast upon the saving fruitage that burdens the tree of Paradise." From the summit of Mount Prion, the Isle of Samos may be distinctly seen. Gazing at this in the distance, and nearer to the winding course of the little Cayster towards the sea, at the scattered remnants of temples, marble fragments, broken friezes, and relics of every description,
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364 ABOUND THE WOELD.<br />
Sailing up the Mediterranean I saw Samos, — literally<br />
" sea-shore height." This island, at an early period of history,<br />
was a powerful member of the Ionic Confederacy.<br />
Pythagoras left it, to travel in foreign countries, under the<br />
government of Polycrates. A future view of this classic<br />
isle from St. Paul's prison and Mount Prion, around which<br />
was grouped ancient Ephesus, famed as the seat of the most<br />
eminent of the old Asian churches, was very fine. Not far<br />
distant was the beautiful island of Cos, with its mountainous<br />
peaks, vine-clad hillsides, and pleasant-appearing homes,<br />
embowered in evergreen foliage. And there peered above<br />
the horizon Patmos, sainted' Patmos, seat of John's visions<br />
and revelations. Banished from the world's bustle, and frequently<br />
in the " spirit on the<br />
Lord's Day," he became- the<br />
recipient of truths and illuminations that streamed in glory<br />
down through all the sunrise hours of the Christian dispensation.<br />
Determined to see the ruins of this old Ionian<br />
city, Ephesus,<br />
once noted for its commercial prosperity, for its stadium,<br />
theaters, and Temple of Diana, as well as for the place<br />
where the Apostle John spent his last years, I left Smyrna<br />
Nov. 7, 1870.* It was sixty miles distant to Isaalouke, a<br />
disagreeable Arab town.<br />
The English own this railway. An hour's ride on<br />
wretched horses dropped us doAvn with a party of pilgrims<br />
to the rim of the Ephesian ruins. The original city was<br />
evidently built around the base of Mount Prion. Crumbling<br />
remnants of custom-house and ware-houses are yet<br />
visible. But the Mediterranean waters have so receded, that<br />
bay, harbor, and landing have given place to a broad basin<br />
covered with grasses and weeds, through which winds a<br />
small serpentine stream. The employees of J. T. Wood<br />
were putting down shafts between Prion and St. John's<br />
* Descriptions in this volume relating to Smyrna, Ephesns, Constantinople,<br />
Rome, Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, &c., are taken from notes made<br />
during a previous visit to Europe, Turkey, and Asia Minor.