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326 ABOUND THE WOELD. with a guide, for the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Fronting it is a neatly paved square, reached from the street by descending a flight of worn stone stairs. This area is usually thronged with Syrians, Abyssinians, Armenians, Greeks, Copts, and Turks, as well as Europeans, Monks and tradesmen also frequent the place daily to sell amulets and cheap rehcs. The Holy Sepulcher is open to all religionists except the Jews. These, with an intolerance unpardonable, are excluded. There is little doubt but that the "new tomb " of Joseph of Arimathea was in this mountainous eminence. It was so designated in the first, and confirmed by the fathers of later centuries. The magnificent dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher has been erected directly over this white-marble sarcophagus under which is the veritable rock-hewn " tomb." Near the sepulcher is a marble slab on which it is said they anointed the body of Jesus ; and to the east of it is a small door, requiring a stooping posture to enter, made, in all probability, to harmonize with St. John's account, " And, as she Avept, she stooped down, and looked into the sepulcher." About the tomb and the altar are gifts of precious stones, wreaths of pearls and diamonds, from the Christian sovereigns of Europe, and lamps of gold and silver kept continually burning. These, glittering with the smoke of the incense, the perfume of spices, and the attar of roses, induced in us a strange, weird sensation. Silently we said, " Jesus and the poor ; Jesus and the beggar by the wayside ; Jesus, once treading the winepress alone, without ' where to lay his head,' now a god with a costly, garnished sepulcher, and the poor of the nineteenth century begging, starving, dying ! " Jesus was genuine : Christianity is a sham. The crucifixion upon Calvary, the stone of anointing, the burial sepulcher, and other holy places, to say nothing of the Greek, Latin, Armenian, and Coptic departments of worship, are all included under the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Mount Calvary, within a stone's-throw
of the FKOM ALEXANDRIA TO JOPPA AND JERUSALEM. 827 sepulcher, is reached by climbing a flight of eighteen stone steps, introducing us into a richly decorated chapel. In this chapel is quite a rock with a hole therein, said to have received the foot of the cross ; and a tablet, showing where the " mother of Jesus stood " during her son's agony. Descending a rugged stone stairway, we entered the Chapel of St. Helena, mother of Constantine ; where, three hundred years after the crucifixion, it is pretended were found the " three crosses " in a state of perfect preservation. It is claimed that the Armenian Church covers the site where John was beheaded ; and close by they pointed us to Adam's grave, and a picture of his skull. They also showed where the cock stood and " crowed three times " before Peter's denial ; showed us the Judgment Hall ; the place where Jesus, leaning against the wall when weary, made an indentation in the rock ; the spot where he fell under the cross, calling upon Simon of Cyrene ; the place where they scourged him ; the cleft in the rock, made when he yielded up the ghost ; and, what is more, they identified the exact locality where the angel stood that appeared to the Maries. Further, they pointed to the tomb of Melchisedec, the palace of Herod, the place where Stephen was stoned, the house of Dives, the dilapidated stone shanty of Lazarus, and the prints of Jesus' footsteps where he stood when confounding the " doctors of the law." Naturally incredulous, the fixing of these localities with such cool precision disgusted me. Tradition and superstition are the handmaids of ignorance. The truth is, the most imaginative genius can not reconstruct Jerusalem as Jesus saw it, and Josephus and other Jewish writers describe it. The demon of war, crimsoning its streets, too often sacked the city. It has been burned, built, and rebuilt. The localities of towers and tombs, pools and sepulchers, therefore, are mostly hypothetical ; and yet the general topographical outhnes of the city and immediate country are as clearly marked as they are ineffaceable.
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of the<br />
FKOM ALEXANDRIA TO JOPPA AND JERUSALEM. 827<br />
sepulcher, is reached by climbing a flight of eighteen<br />
stone steps, introducing us into a richly decorated chapel.<br />
In this chapel is quite a rock with a hole therein, said to<br />
have received the foot of the cross ; and a tablet, showing<br />
where the " mother of Jesus stood " during her son's agony.<br />
Descending a rugged stone stairway, we entered the Chapel<br />
of St. Helena, mother of Constantine ; where, three hundred<br />
years after the crucifixion, it is pretended were found the<br />
" three crosses " in a state of perfect preservation.<br />
It is claimed that the Armenian Church covers the site<br />
where John was beheaded ; and close by they pointed us to<br />
Adam's grave, and a picture of his skull. They also showed<br />
where the cock stood and " crowed three times " before<br />
Peter's denial ; showed us the Judgment Hall ; the place<br />
where Jesus, leaning against the wall when weary, made an<br />
indentation in the rock ; the spot where he fell under the<br />
cross, calling upon Simon of Cyrene ; the place where they<br />
scourged him ; the cleft in the rock, made when he yielded<br />
up the ghost ; and, what is more, they identified the exact<br />
locality where the angel stood that appeared to the Maries.<br />
Further, they pointed to the tomb of Melchisedec, the palace<br />
of Herod, the place where Stephen was stoned, the<br />
house of Dives, the dilapidated stone shanty of Lazarus,<br />
and the prints of Jesus' footsteps where he stood when<br />
confounding the " doctors of the law."<br />
Naturally incredulous, the fixing of these localities with<br />
such cool precision disgusted me. Tradition and superstition<br />
are the handmaids of ignorance. The truth is, the<br />
most imaginative genius can not reconstruct Jerusalem as<br />
Jesus saw it, and Josephus and other Jewish writers describe<br />
it. The demon of war, crimsoning its streets, too often<br />
sacked the city. It has been burned, built, and rebuilt.<br />
The localities of towers and tombs, pools and sepulchers,<br />
therefore, are mostly hypothetical ; and yet the general topographical<br />
outhnes of the city and immediate country are<br />
as clearly marked as they are ineffaceable.