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324 AROUND THE WORLD. first view of the city with its mosques and towers. How unspeakably charming was that moment's vision ! Never did silence and loneliness appear so gratifying." Believing as firmly in Jesus' suffering, bleeding, and dying a martyr to a principle, as in Socrates' draining tlie hemlock draught, the sight of Jerusalem had for me a thousand charms. " Here circling vines their leafy banners spread, And held their green shields o'er the pilgrim's head; At once repelling Syria's burning ray, And breathing freshness on the sultry day." To Strauss, Jesus was a wise rabbi ; to Renan, a moral teacher ; to Fourier, a warm-hearted socialist ; to Fenelon, the most rapt of mystics ; to Paine, the most sincere of philanthropists ; to Miiller, the harmony of all history ; to Emerson, a true prophet seeing the mystery of the soul ; to Parker, a fellow-brother and self-sacrificing reformer ; while to me he was the marvel-working medium of the East, the baptized of Christ, and the great Syrian Spiritualist sent of the gods to bear " witness to the truth." Previously I had looked upon the Isle of Samos that gave birth to Pythagoras ; I had stood upon the spot where Socrates was imprisoned for corrupting the youth ; I had wandered over the fields of Sarnath, where Buddha's feet had pressed the soil ; I had traversed the land where Plato taught in the Athenian groves ; and noio I was at the gates of the city where Jesus had toiled and taught, healed and suffered, wept, and died with the prayer upon his purpling lips, " Father, forgive them ! " The sainted John Pierpont sweetly wrote, — " A lonelier, lovelier path be mine; Greece and her channs I'd leave for Palestine; There purer streams through happier valleys flow. And sweeter flowei-s on holier mountains blow; I'd love to breathe where Gilead sheds her balm; I'd love ta walk on Jordan's banks of palm;
FEOM ALEXANDRIA TO JOPPA AND JERUSALEM. 325 I'd love to wet my foot in Hermon's dews; I'd love the promptings of Isaiah's muse; In Carmel's holy grots I'd court repose, And deck my mossy couch with Sharon's blooming rose." This is Aug. 24. We enter Jerusalem by the Jaffa Gate, and follow " Christian Street " to Mount Zion. JERUSALEM AS IT NOW IS. poetry into dullest prose ! How often in life does sunshine fade away into cloudland, So Jerusalem, which was so beautiful an hour ago in the softening, fading light of the setting sun, shrunk away to a trafficking Turkish city the moment we entered within the gates. The city has at present a population of some twelve thousand, of whom three thousand four hundred are denominated Christians, three thousand Jews, and five thousand Mohammedans ; each class largely occupying separate quarters. The streets are narrow, dirty, and poorly paved. The houses, built of stone, look like fortresses, presenting in front little more than blank walls. Morning and evening they are crowded with Turks and Arabs. The bazaars were sparsely supplied, with the exception of fruits. The principal trade of the city consists in beads and coins, crosses and relics. There are no gaslights, as in Alexandria ; and therefore it was impossible to see much of the city in evening-time. Stopping at the Mediterranean Hotel on Mount Zion, kept by Mr. Honstein, — a Free-Mason and a free-thinker, — we had a dehghtful night's rest. Waking rested and refreshed, we could say most heartily, " Pray for the peace of Jerusalem ; they shall prosper that love thee. Peace be within thy walls, and prosperity within thy palaces." OUR FIRST DAY IN THE CITY. Out in early morning upon the housetop I saw the sun rise from beyond the Jordan. After a dehcious breakfast of eggs, bread, honey, and several kinds of fruit, we started,
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FEOM ALEXANDRIA TO JOPPA AND JERUSALEM. 325<br />
I'd love to wet my foot in Hermon's dews;<br />
I'd love the promptings of Isaiah's muse;<br />
In Carmel's holy grots I'd court repose,<br />
And deck my mossy couch with Sharon's blooming rose."<br />
This is Aug. 24. We enter Jerusalem by the Jaffa Gate,<br />
and follow " Christian Street " to Mount Zion.<br />
JERUSALEM AS IT<br />
NOW IS.<br />
poetry into dullest prose !<br />
How often in life does sunshine fade away into cloudland,<br />
So Jerusalem, which was so beautiful<br />
an hour ago in the softening, fading light of the setting<br />
sun, shrunk away to a trafficking Turkish city the moment we<br />
entered within the gates.<br />
The city has at present a population<br />
of some twelve thousand, of whom three thousand four<br />
hundred are denominated Christians, three thousand Jews,<br />
and five thousand Mohammedans ; each class largely occupying<br />
separate quarters. The streets are narrow, dirty, and<br />
poorly paved. The houses, built of stone, look like fortresses,<br />
presenting in front little more than blank walls.<br />
Morning and evening they are crowded with Turks and<br />
Arabs. The bazaars were sparsely supplied, with the<br />
exception of fruits. The principal trade of the city consists<br />
in beads and coins, crosses and relics. There are no gaslights,<br />
as in Alexandria ; and therefore it was impossible to<br />
see much of the city in evening-time. Stopping at the<br />
Mediterranean Hotel on Mount Zion, kept by Mr. Honstein,<br />
— a Free-Mason and a free-thinker, — we had a<br />
dehghtful night's rest. Waking rested and refreshed, we<br />
could say most heartily, " Pray for the peace of Jerusalem ;<br />
they shall prosper that love thee. Peace be within thy<br />
walls, and prosperity within thy palaces."<br />
OUR FIRST DAY IN THE CITY.<br />
Out in early morning upon the housetop I saw the sun<br />
rise from beyond the Jordan.<br />
After a dehcious breakfast of<br />
eggs, bread, honey, and several kinds of fruit, we started,