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FROM ALEXANDRIA TO JOPPA AND JERUSALEM. 319<br />

mingled fragrance of apricot and orange, lemon and quince,<br />

plum and china tree blossoms. During the dry season, lasting<br />

from May till November, these gardens are kept fresh<br />

and green by irrigation.<br />

" In Eastern land they talk in flowers,<br />

And tell in a garland their loves and cares<br />

Each blossom that blooms in their garden-bowers<br />

On its leaves a mystic language bears."<br />

But we are galloping away from garden and grove over<br />

vast plains, the biblical plains of Sharon. How flash upon<br />

the mind now the poetical phrases, " Carmel and Sharon,"<br />

" the rose of Sharon, and the lily of the valley " ! Who are<br />

these ? " Pilgrims," says SeUm, " coming back from Jerusalem<br />

and the Jordan."- Some were Catholics, some Greek<br />

Christians, and others Mohammedans, all either riding camels,<br />

donkeys, or afoot, weary and dusty. Most of the traveling<br />

at this season is done in the night-time. Syrian, like Egyptian<br />

women, veil their faces. It is said that when the Sultan<br />

of Turkey was at Paris, in 1867, Louis Napoleon inquired<br />

of him, " Why don't you have roads in your country ?<br />

adding, " The empress wishes much to visit Jerusalem."<br />

" There shall be a road within a year," was the Sultan's<br />

reply ; and so there was, a handsome carriage-road, twentyfive<br />

or thirty feet in width, the work of forced labor.<br />

Sharon has not, as Isaiah prophesied, become a " howling<br />

wilderness." Its extensive plains, rounding up now and<br />

then into swells and long ridges, are very fertile, judging<br />

from the cultivated fields we passed, covered with corn and<br />

wheat stubble. Reapers and gleaners gather the harvests in<br />

June, or early in July. These plains, so eminently fertile,<br />

constantly reminded me of Sacramento and other rich valleylands<br />

in California.<br />

On this route from Jaffa to Ramleh, three hours distant,<br />

there are several little villages in orchards of olives, figs,<br />

pomegranates, and mulberries. These mulberry-trees, like

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