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THE CITY OP CAIEO. — EGYPT. 283<br />

THE PYBAMmS, THE PYEAJVimS<br />

A picnic from Cairo to the pyramids is one of the<br />

easiest<br />

things, nowadays, in the world. The Great Pyramid, Cheops,<br />

is only some ten or twelve miles from the city, and a<br />

fine carriage-road ; but this is not the route for tourists<br />

of seeing other pyramids, the ruins of Memphis,<br />

Heliopolis, and the tombs at Sakkarah.<br />

Accompany us. It is seven o'clock in the morning, carriage<br />

at the door, the lunch-basket filled, the guide ready.<br />

The streets are yet comparatively quiet. Starting westward,<br />

we cross the bridged Nile, and pass along its banks, under<br />

overarching acacias, by a palatial structure of the viceroy's,<br />

in process of completion, by quaint buildings of less prominence,<br />

by mud-built huts, toward Geezah. Here we alight,<br />

and take to the cars as far as the Bardshain station, where,<br />

finding mules and muleteers, we are off through crooked<br />

paths to the ruins of Memphis. Donkey-riding is doleful<br />

business for a tall man, inasmuch as feet dangling in the<br />

sand become neither grace nor comeliness. But see those<br />

heavily-laden camels on their way to the market, those<br />

toilers winnowing grain by fickle wind-gusts, and, beyond,<br />

those beautiful groves of date-palms, reddening and ripening<br />

to load the tables of the rich !<br />

Now we are upon the threshold of the Mempliian ruins.<br />

Though level with the ground, or buried in the sand, they<br />

cover a vast plain. Egyptian priests informed Herodotus<br />

that Memphis was founded by Menes, a very ancient king<br />

of Egypt, and noted for having turned the Nile from its<br />

course, making a large tract of dry land upon which to<br />

build a city.<br />

In hieroglyphs, Memphis was styled Manofre,<br />

the " land of the pyramids," the " city of the white wall."<br />

According to Diodorus, this waU was seventeen miles in<br />

length, girdling and guarding the city against armies, and<br />

the annual overflow of the " Eternal River." The city,<br />

once or twice rebuilt, had suffered terribly from the Persians

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