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CHAPTER XX. Egypt's catacombs and pyramids. — appearance of the egyptians. In physique the Egyptians of to-day are larger and much stouter in organic structure than the Hindoos, yet evidently lack their intellectual activity. Physically they are a weUformed race, with an expressive face, retreating' forehead, jet black eyes, full lips, prominent nose, broad shoulders, and beautiful teeth. Their complexions — strangely blended— vary ; the darkest are doubtless the descendants of the pyramid-builders. Those having an infusion of Arabian blood in their veins are exceedingly hardy and stalwart. The women veil their faces, all except their eyes. A certain class, however, as do some Syrians, veil their faces completely. The reasons assigned refer to the harem, and the " look " of temptation. Dress, with Egyptian men, consists of trousers, — literally a red bag through which the feet are thrust, — a tight undershirt, probably white when clean ; a short, flying overjacket ; a heavy, sash-like fold of cloth about the waist ; and a red-tasseled " tartouche " upon the head, around which is twisted a fanciful coiffure. All classes wear the tartouche, even those who otherwise doff the European dress. Travelers frequently put it on, thinking to pass for old citizens. Have they forgotten the " brayer " in the "lion's skin"? Could I speak but one word to the Khedive of Egypt, that word should be education, — educate the people I 2S2
. desirous THE CITY OP CAIEO. — EGYPT. 283 THE PYBAMmS, THE PYEAJVimS A picnic from Cairo to the pyramids is one of the easiest things, nowadays, in the world. The Great Pyramid, Cheops, is only some ten or twelve miles from the city, and a fine carriage-road ; but this is not the route for tourists of seeing other pyramids, the ruins of Memphis, Heliopolis, and the tombs at Sakkarah. Accompany us. It is seven o'clock in the morning, carriage at the door, the lunch-basket filled, the guide ready. The streets are yet comparatively quiet. Starting westward, we cross the bridged Nile, and pass along its banks, under overarching acacias, by a palatial structure of the viceroy's, in process of completion, by quaint buildings of less prominence, by mud-built huts, toward Geezah. Here we alight, and take to the cars as far as the Bardshain station, where, finding mules and muleteers, we are off through crooked paths to the ruins of Memphis. Donkey-riding is doleful business for a tall man, inasmuch as feet dangling in the sand become neither grace nor comeliness. But see those heavily-laden camels on their way to the market, those toilers winnowing grain by fickle wind-gusts, and, beyond, those beautiful groves of date-palms, reddening and ripening to load the tables of the rich ! Now we are upon the threshold of the Mempliian ruins. Though level with the ground, or buried in the sand, they cover a vast plain. Egyptian priests informed Herodotus that Memphis was founded by Menes, a very ancient king of Egypt, and noted for having turned the Nile from its course, making a large tract of dry land upon which to build a city. In hieroglyphs, Memphis was styled Manofre, the " land of the pyramids," the " city of the white wall." According to Diodorus, this waU was seventeen miles in length, girdling and guarding the city against armies, and the annual overflow of the " Eternal River." The city, once or twice rebuilt, had suffered terribly from the Persians
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CHAPTER XX.<br />
Egypt's catacombs and pyramids. — appearance of<br />
the egyptians.<br />
In physique the<br />
Egyptians of to-day are larger and much<br />
stouter in organic structure than the Hindoos, yet evidently<br />
lack their intellectual activity. Physically they are a weUformed<br />
race, with an expressive face, retreating' forehead, jet<br />
black eyes, full lips, prominent nose, broad shoulders, and<br />
beautiful teeth. Their complexions — strangely blended—<br />
vary ; the darkest are doubtless the descendants of the<br />
pyramid-builders. Those having an infusion of Arabian<br />
blood in their veins are exceedingly hardy and stalwart.<br />
The women veil their faces, all except their eyes. A certain<br />
class, however, as do some Syrians, veil their faces completely.<br />
The reasons assigned refer to the harem, and the<br />
" look " of temptation.<br />
Dress, with Egyptian men, consists of trousers, — literally<br />
a red bag through which the feet are thrust, — a tight undershirt,<br />
probably white when clean ; a short, flying overjacket<br />
; a heavy, sash-like fold of cloth about the waist ; and<br />
a red-tasseled " tartouche " upon the head, around which is<br />
twisted a fanciful coiffure. All classes wear the tartouche,<br />
even those who otherwise doff the European dress.<br />
Travelers<br />
frequently put it on, thinking to pass for old citizens.<br />
Have they forgotten the " brayer " in the "lion's skin"?<br />
Could I speak but one word to the Khedive of Egypt, that<br />
word should be education, — educate the people I<br />
2S2