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CHAPTER XIX. THE CITY OF CAIRO. — EGYPT. Deliciously gratifying was it to gradually leave the sands, and approach, with the lengthening shadows of the day, the wide and fertile Valley of the Nile. It was nearly twilight when the train reached the city ; and yet, on our way in the carriage to the Oriental Hotel, we caught a distinct view of. Cheops and Belzoni, — two of the great pyramids. The sight shot a thrill of satisfaction into my being's core. August 18. — This, in one sense at least, was an auspicious time to reach Cairo, because the third night of the yearly illumination in honor of the Viceroy of Egypt. The estimated expenditure for the display was half a million. They dine in the East at eight o'clock. Strolling out in evening-time, after dinner, accompanied by an Egyptian guide and Dr. Dunn, I mentally asked, " Is not this dreamland ? the lotus-clime of the poet ? the palace realm of the * Arabian Nights ' ? " Bright globed and various colored lights were distributed through the gardens, and along the streets, arching the avenues, whitening the pavements, flickering in the branches, and sending silvered shafts down into playing fountains ; while rockets, serpents, revolving wheels, and other kinds of fireworks, blazed out upon the night, half paling, for a time, torch and lamps. Not only were triangular and pyramidal-shaped figures hung with glass lanterns, trimmed and illumined, but theaters, palaces, mosques, up to the very summits of their minarets seemed all ablaze 272
THE CITY OF CAIRO. — EGYPT. 273 with a weird, gaseous brightness. The streets and lanes, fringed for miles with flags, banners, and costly tapestry and transparencies, were literally thronged with carriages and giddily-gaping multitudes, some in rags, some in silks and satins, and others in the gilded trappings of state. Seen externally, it was a most magnificent pageant. Considered spiritually, it was the quintessence of babyish folly, — the glittering pampering so pleasing to vain royalty. This half million, worse than squandered, should have been spent in educating ignorant subjects, freeing the country from slavery, and feeding the wretched street-beggars. Disgusted with the confusion, the wild excitement, and the sham of the show, I returned to my apartment to meditate. Is it a dream ? or am I really in Egypt, the country of Hermes, Trismegistus, and Menes the founder of Memphis ? Am I in the land of ancient symbolical art, of hieroglyphs, obelisks, pyramids, and paintings, of monoliths, sarcophagi, and templed tombs? Changed, oh, how changed during the devastating decades of two, three, and five thousand years ! The sacred Nile still moves on in silent majesty but no wandering Isis weeps, searching for the dead Osiris. The shadow of Typhon's frown falls no more upon the tremulous waves of this great rolling river. The lips of iMemnon, touched, smitten even by rising sunbeams, remain voiceless as the sphinx that gazes coldly out upon the vast granary-valley of Egypt. Cleopatra and the kingly Ptolemies are only dimly, dreamily remembered ; but those marvels of towering masonry, those pillared Pyramids^ though stripped of their marble casings, continue to stand in peerless grandeur, the wonder of the races, the riddle of the ages! THE KHEDIVE AND HIS PURPOSES. Ismael Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, formerly resided in a magnificent palace on the Bosphorus, surrounded by lawns 18
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CHAPTER XIX.<br />
THE CITY OF CAIRO. — EGYPT.<br />
Deliciously gratifying was it to gradually leave the sands,<br />
and approach, with the lengthening shadows of the day, the<br />
wide and fertile Valley of the Nile. It was nearly twilight<br />
when the train reached the city ; and yet, on our way in the<br />
carriage to the Oriental Hotel, we caught a distinct view of.<br />
Cheops and Belzoni, — two of the great pyramids. The<br />
sight shot a thrill of satisfaction into my being's core.<br />
August 18. — This, in one sense at least, was an auspicious<br />
time to reach Cairo, because the third night of the<br />
yearly illumination in honor of the Viceroy of Egypt.<br />
The<br />
estimated expenditure for the display was half a million.<br />
They dine in the East at eight o'clock. Strolling out in<br />
evening-time, after dinner, accompanied by an Egyptian<br />
guide and Dr. Dunn, I mentally asked, " Is not this dreamland<br />
? the lotus-clime of the poet ? the palace realm of the<br />
* Arabian Nights '<br />
? " Bright globed and various colored<br />
lights were distributed through the gardens, and along the<br />
streets, arching the avenues, whitening the pavements, flickering<br />
in the branches, and sending silvered shafts down into<br />
playing fountains ; while rockets, serpents, revolving wheels,<br />
and other kinds of fireworks, blazed out upon the night,<br />
half paling, for a time, torch and lamps. Not only were triangular<br />
and pyramidal-shaped figures hung with glass lanterns,<br />
trimmed and illumined, but theaters, palaces, mosques,<br />
up to the very summits of their minarets seemed all ablaze<br />
272