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CHINA. 139<br />

compelled by law to carry a hand-lamp, if traversing the<br />

streets after seven o'clock.<br />

Only a portion of the women—<br />

the better classes — have small feet. These, in walking,<br />

simply waddle as though lame. They think it graceful.<br />

After visiting the Chinese temples, hospitals, foundling<br />

institutions, and riding upon men's shoulders in sedanchairs,<br />

— a method of locomotion to us as distasteful as unnatural,<br />

— we took the steamer for Canton. The native name<br />

is<br />

Yang-ChinQy meaning "the city of rams;" but from subsequent<br />

mythological circumstances connected with the wise<br />

men of the past, and their communion with the gods, it now<br />

signifies " the city of genii." Thronging with a population<br />

of over a million, it numbers less than two hundred foreigners.<br />

The city is situated on the Pearl River, up the country<br />

some ninety miles from Hong Kong. The river, wide,<br />

muddy, and moderate, reminding one of the lazy Missouri,<br />

flows into the bay at Hong Kong, just under the shadow of<br />

Victoria Peak, a mountainous point, towering up nearly two<br />

thousand feet above the level of the sea. The flat lands all<br />

along this river were covered with rice-fields, banana plantations,<br />

ly-chee trees laden with ripening fruit, peach-orchards<br />

full of promise, and banyan shrubbery, more ornamental in<br />

this latitude than useful. Odd-looking villages, lying a little<br />

distance away, dotted the river valley. These are more<br />

noted for compactness and bustle, than cultivation or beauty.<br />

The most important of these minor cities, commercially considered,<br />

is<br />

Whampoa, — virtually the port of Canton, — being<br />

just at the head\of navigation for heavily-laden vessels.<br />

Seen from the steamer, agriculture and architecture seemed<br />

decidedly primitive. The buildings were generally one story<br />

high, and covered with tiles, — no glass in the windows, nor<br />

gardens in front of them. Back in the fields, men and<br />

women were plowing their half-submerged rice-lands with<br />

water-buffaloes. These huge, hairless creatures are considerably<br />

larger than our wild droves of the West. Butter<br />

made from their milk is white as lard. These buffalo-cows,

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