10.05.2017 Views

Breeze_Issue_002_TheArtOfCelebration

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

B Y C O C O C O L L E C T I O N<br />

The Art of<br />

JAN 2016 | ISSUE #<strong>002</strong><br />

CELEBRATION<br />

The Accidental<br />

Hotelier<br />

Into the<br />

Blue<br />

The Chef’s<br />

Table<br />

www.cococollection.com<br />

www.cococollection.com 1


20<br />

14<br />

The Art of Celebration<br />

Photo Essay<br />

Maldivian life is full of celebration and<br />

festivity. Here we explore its colour,<br />

energy and rituals.<br />

Santa’s Helpers<br />

Coco Family<br />

Our carpentry workshops may be out of sight<br />

but they are a hub of activity throughout the<br />

year. No less so at Christmas, when Santa<br />

recruits a few more helpers to ensure the<br />

islands brim with a festive cheer that is kind to<br />

the environment.<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

<strong>Breeze</strong> is the latest offering from Coco Collection, the trailblazing<br />

Maldivian hospitality brand. Readers will now be able to glimpse the<br />

Maldivian way of life and environment through its quarterly editions.<br />

Against the magical backdrop of the lagoon villas at Coco Palm Dhuni<br />

Kolhu, villa attendant Abdul Hameed Moosa wheels his wooden trolley<br />

in the morning sun. Designed and built in-house, these trolleys resemble<br />

the traditional Maldivian dhonis that have been used to travel these<br />

waters for centuries. These beached vessels sail amongst the trees and<br />

sandy paths of the Coco Collection islands as silently as their oceanbound<br />

ancestors did atop the waves.<br />

4<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


43<br />

38<br />

The Chef’s Table<br />

Coco Recipes<br />

Nashiu Zahir speaks to Coco Bodu Hithi<br />

Executive Chef I Wayan Sundira about his<br />

journey to becoming an executive chef.<br />

67<br />

Into the Blue<br />

Experience<br />

With its calm, shallow lagoons, sloping reefs<br />

and incredible marine life, the Maldives is<br />

the ideal place to try scuba diving for the<br />

first time. Noona Hussein discovers what it<br />

feels like to breathe underwater.<br />

A Journey to Maldives<br />

Wellness<br />

Adele Verdier-Ali is joined by her husband<br />

at the Coco Spa to experience the benefits<br />

of the Coco Collection signature couple’s<br />

ritual.<br />

Inside this <strong>Issue</strong><br />

What’s Cooking at Coco?<br />

Coco News<br />

P - 07<br />

Lady in Red<br />

Tradition<br />

P - 49<br />

The Accidental Hotelier<br />

Coco Story<br />

P - 10<br />

A Hero in Time – A book review<br />

Review<br />

P - 55<br />

Festive Gifts All Wrapped Up!<br />

Gift Guide<br />

P - 25<br />

The Voyage of Kalhofummi<br />

Folklore & Legend<br />

P - 58<br />

Philippe Laurella: A portrait of the artist<br />

Local Artists<br />

P - 28<br />

Set in Stone – a mosque from the ocean<br />

Arts & Culture<br />

P - 62<br />

Hagnaameedhoo: Where a king rests<br />

Island Culture<br />

P - 35<br />

That Shell Do Nicely<br />

Flora & Fauna<br />

P - 72<br />

Gear up!<br />

Gadgets<br />

P - 47<br />

2016 Movie Preview<br />

New Releases<br />

P - 75<br />

www.cococollection.com 5


BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

January 2016 / <strong>Issue</strong> # <strong>002</strong><br />

Editorial<br />

Editor Adele Verdier-Ali<br />

Contributing Editor Mariyam Athiza Athif<br />

breeze@perspective.mv<br />

FEATURE WRITERS<br />

Nashiu Zahir<br />

Fathimath Lamya Abdulla<br />

Ahmed Mauroof Jameel<br />

Noona Hussein<br />

Aminath Ishrath<br />

Naufa Ghafoor<br />

Ibrahim Eelaf Naseer<br />

Layout Design Mohamed Solah DXYN IQ<br />

Illustrations Eagan Badeeu<br />

Production Assistant Ali Imran Mohamed<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

Mash-hood Abdulla, sales@perspective.mv<br />

Navaal Rasheed, navaal@perspective.mv<br />

CLIENT RELATIONS<br />

Aminath Ali, admin@perspective.mv<br />

COCO COLLECTION<br />

Director of Marketing Shafa Shabeer<br />

Senior Marketing Executive Lulu Aishath<br />

Marketing & PR Executive Aminath Ishrath<br />

Marketing & PR Executive Mariyam Narmeen<br />

connect@cococollection.com<br />

www.cococollection.com<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

Aryche, Mohamed Iyash, Auxam Zional,<br />

Mohamed Solah, Mahin Fayaz, Ali Anirood,<br />

Maldives National Archives, Ahmed Hassaan<br />

COVER PHOTO<br />

Photographed by Azzu (Double Dot)<br />

Model Abdul Hameed Moosa<br />

<strong>Breeze</strong> by Coco Collection is produced for<br />

Sunland Hotels by Perspective Pvt Ltd, Emerald<br />

Building 3rd Floor,Koli Umar Maniku Goalhi,<br />

Male’, Republic of Maldives.<br />

Editorial<br />

Welcome to the second edition of <strong>Breeze</strong> by Coco Collection. It seems<br />

only days ago that I sat down to write to you for the first time, and yet<br />

already the year is drawing to a close, and Christmas is only days away.<br />

Here in the capital of the Maldives, the Christmas that I grew up eagerly<br />

anticipating seems a lifetime away. No longer do I brave the frost at<br />

midnight to sing carols with the choir, nor do I clasp warm spiced wine<br />

with mittened hands at the fair.<br />

But in the Maldives, festivity is always just around the corner. Whether<br />

it’s a wedding, a birth, or National, Fishermen’s or Teachers’ Day – there<br />

is always something, or someone, to celebrate. And as Ahmed Mauroof<br />

Jameel points out in our cover story The Art of Celebration, in the Maldives<br />

it’s all about laughter, community and above all, mischief. Food and<br />

sweet treats also play their part, as Mariyam Athiza Athif explains in her<br />

story Sugar & Spice. Dressing up is also at the heart of revelries here<br />

and Aminath Ishrath explores the skill that goes into creating a traditional<br />

Maldivian dress in her article, Lady in Red.<br />

Parallel to life in the secluded local islands, the air in the resorts is always<br />

thick with the spirit of celebration, too. Often it’s the joy of recent nuptials,<br />

but sometimes it’s simply the delight of being on holiday. And never is<br />

this more tangible than in the build up to the festive season. As Nashiu<br />

Zahir reports in Santa’s Helpers, legions of workers are deployed to bring<br />

guests a very special island Christmas at the Coco Collection resorts.<br />

Then, after all the indulgence and frolics, comes a new year with all its<br />

accompanying hopes and opportunities. It’s a time when new rituals<br />

are initiated, and new habits established. In this spirit, in A Journey to<br />

Maldives, my husband and I resolve to spend more time at the spa. In the<br />

same vein, Noona Hussein sets her fears aside to try something new for<br />

Into the Blue, her account of scuba diving for the first time.<br />

And so, I remind myself that at this time of year more than any other, I<br />

have the chance to create my own traditions. And in a country where<br />

celebrating is at the heart of daily life, I think I’ll start 2016 by doing just<br />

that: celebrating life at any given opportunity. I hope you might consider<br />

doing the same.<br />

In the meantime, Happy Holidays and my very best wishes for an exciting<br />

New Year.<br />

info@perspective.mv, www.perspective.mv<br />

© Coco Collection, 2016.<br />

Printed by Printpac, PO Box 7823, Plot Ind. 055,<br />

IMPZ Dubai, United Arab Emirates.<br />

Adele Verdier-Ali<br />

6<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


What’s Cooking at Coco?<br />

2015 has been a busy year for Coco Collection, and 2016 shows no signs<br />

of slowing down. Festive cheer, international awards and phenomenal<br />

competitions: here’s the latest news from the islands!<br />

Island Festivities<br />

As per tradition, Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu is eager to<br />

share with you our Zero-Waste Christmas, where all the<br />

decorations are crafted from recyclable and biodegradable<br />

materials. At Coco Bodu Hithi, kids and adults alike are<br />

invited to get into the spirit, enjoy magic tricks by the<br />

beach and join us in opening the Gingerbread Village at<br />

Air Restaurant.<br />

Coco Spa at Coco Bodu Hithi is channeling the festive<br />

spirit with a ritual to relax the whole body. The journey<br />

begins with a silk cocoon facial to hydrate and purify the<br />

face, combined with warm stone therapy to calm back<br />

muscle tensions, a deep tissue massage to relax body<br />

knots, and a scalp massage to de stress and calm the<br />

mind. Ladies, if you would like to glam up just a bit before<br />

Christmas dinner, drop by for a complimentary session of<br />

nail painting.<br />

At Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, Christmas is not complete<br />

without something special for the little ones. For the festive<br />

period, a mini kid’s club will be busy in the afternoon with<br />

fun games and activities so that you can enjoy some<br />

quality time alone.<br />

COCO NEWS<br />

Sifah Saeed – A dynamic Maldivian photographer<br />

Hailing from the beautiful island of Fuvahmulah in the south of Maldives, Sifah<br />

Saeed is the winner of our photography competition themed “Children of the Sea”, an<br />

invitation to creatively express how Maldivians have always depended on the sea for<br />

their livelihood.<br />

Sifah’s journey in the field of photography began when he completed a course in<br />

black and white film photography and dark room photo development in 2004. During<br />

this time, Sifah was mentored by Yassin Hameed, talented Maldivian photographer<br />

and entrepreneur that put Portrait Gallery at the top of the photography studios in<br />

Male’. To this day, Sifah credits the creative thinking of Yassin in allowing him to trust<br />

his instincts and go down the path of photography as a successful career choice.<br />

While travelling all over the Maldives, Sifah truly embraced his passion for<br />

photography which has now become an integral part of his life. Alongside his interest<br />

in capturing the natural picturesque scenery of luxury resorts, portraits and precious<br />

moments of local island life are favourite snaps from his Nikon camera. Sifah’s<br />

photography style is very much focused on capturing genuine moments, fun, bright<br />

and daring colours, immersed in natural surroundings.<br />

Sifah Saeed<br />

As with every photographer, Sifah has a wish list and at the moment, his eyes are set on the Nikon D4S. Working in<br />

the field for more than a decade and averaging 100 shoots a year, this young, hardworking artist has no plans of slowing<br />

down. He hopes to leave behind a portfolio that can be an inspiration for generations to come.<br />

www.cococollection.com 7


At the 2015 World Luxury Hotel<br />

Awards gala ceremony held at the<br />

Harbour Grand Hong Kong, Coco<br />

Collection won the award for Luxury<br />

Hotel Brand in the Maldives and the<br />

individual properties excelled with<br />

distinct awards.<br />

Coco Bodu Hithi celebrated<br />

winning the title of Luxury Water<br />

Villa Resort in the Indian Ocean,<br />

highlighting the 56 villas scattered<br />

over the lagoon of Bodu Hithi Island.<br />

At the Coco Residences, the largest<br />

over-water wing, signature privileges<br />

such as daily high tea, weekly<br />

sunset cocktails, yoga sessions, and<br />

individual butler service from a team<br />

of dedicated lifestyle hosts make for a<br />

truly timeless experience.<br />

Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, where<br />

environmentally-conscious touches<br />

are woven into luxurious natural<br />

surroundings, took home the<br />

award for Luxury Green Hotel in the<br />

Maldives. At the forefront of initiatives<br />

to preserve the marine biodiversity<br />

of Baa Atoll, contribute to the<br />

environmental and social sustainability<br />

of the Maldives, and to educate and<br />

engage guests, associates and local<br />

communities, Coco Palm Dhuni<br />

Kolhu continuously strengthens the<br />

responsible philosophy embodied by<br />

the portfolio.<br />

More on the awards front, at the<br />

2016 Condé Nast Johansens Spa<br />

Awards for Excellence, Coco Bodu<br />

Hithi shone as the Best Destination<br />

Celebrations<br />

on International<br />

Hospitality Stages<br />

Earn rewards with your stay<br />

We are offering the opportunity<br />

for you to earn rewards and miles<br />

with a complimentary points-based<br />

loyalty program. Enroll now to begin<br />

earning points and make your stay as<br />

meaningful as it is memorable!<br />

iPrefer is your gateway to a<br />

selection of privileges and services<br />

at Coco Bodu Hithi and Coco Palm<br />

Dhuni Kolhu, or any Preferred Hotels<br />

and Resorts property that you stay at.<br />

Sign up now and members booking<br />

with eligible rates will be able to<br />

redeem points with cash-value reward<br />

certificates for free nights, dining and<br />

spa discounts. Depending on your<br />

reward tiers, enjoy privileges such<br />

Spa. Created to acknowledge,<br />

reward and celebrate excellence<br />

across the featured spas in the<br />

Luxury Spas Guide, these annual<br />

awards are a trusted mark of quality,<br />

recognised by luxury consumers<br />

and travel professionals alike. For<br />

guests at Coco Bodu Hithi, wellness<br />

is embodied as a lifestyle at the<br />

soothing Coco Spa perched on stilts<br />

over the lagoon.<br />

Exciting plans are up ahead for<br />

the collection in 2016, and we hope<br />

to inspire our guests to rekindle their<br />

love of travel with us!<br />

as priority early check-in and late<br />

check-out, complimentary internet,<br />

special welcome amenities and villa<br />

upgrades.<br />

Up next on our loyalty program,<br />

is the opportunity to earn miles with<br />

your favourite airline programmes.<br />

Book an eligible rate and present your<br />

frequent flyer card when you arrive to<br />

earn miles with 17 world class airlines<br />

including British Airways, Singapore<br />

Airlines, Qantas, Etihad and Korean<br />

Air. Furthermore, stay in a Coco<br />

Residence to earn double miles and<br />

enjoy a world of opportunities!<br />

8<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


COCO NEWS<br />

‘Tis the<br />

Season to<br />

be Giving<br />

We continue to partner with various<br />

charitable organizations throughout<br />

the year, and this holiday season has<br />

been no different. Having worked<br />

together with the below organisations<br />

and their signature events, we<br />

sincerely hope to make a difference<br />

with our support to these charitable<br />

causes.<br />

Held at London’s iconic Savoy<br />

Hotel on 25th November, the<br />

Macmillan Annual Ball is a flagship<br />

event by Macmillan Cancer Support,<br />

a charity founded in 1911. Today, the<br />

organization consists of a complete<br />

team of medical professionals,<br />

supporters, volunteers, and people<br />

affected by cancer, all united with the<br />

ambition to provide support and help<br />

In September, we surprised the<br />

online community with a campaign to<br />

name HK 2235, a juvenile hawksbill<br />

turtle identified at the house reef of<br />

Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu by our marine<br />

biologist Chiara Fumagalli. Using<br />

Twitter and Instagram, followers were<br />

encouraged to post a chosen name<br />

and picture showing the inspiration<br />

behind the choice, where a lucky<br />

winner can enjoy seven blissful nights<br />

in a Sunset Beach Villa at Coco Palm<br />

Dhuni Kolhu.<br />

those affected to feel more in control<br />

of their lives.<br />

The traditional year-closing Winter<br />

Ball by Make A Wish Foundation<br />

took place on 28th November at the<br />

Dorchester in London. The foundation<br />

exists for the sole purpose of granting<br />

magical wishes to enrich the lives of<br />

children and young adults battling<br />

life-threatening diseases. Whether<br />

it’s starring in a movie, meeting a<br />

celebrity or going on an amazing<br />

once-in-a-lifetime holiday, the<br />

foundation makes dreams come true<br />

for these children!<br />

Over in Germany on the same<br />

evening, the Goose Dinner is an<br />

event with an exclusive charity raffle<br />

in favour of Kinderschutz Zentrum<br />

Berlin, an institution offering refuge<br />

for socially disadvantaged children<br />

suffering from various forms of abuse.<br />

Due to last year’s generous sponsors,<br />

they were able to make the children’s<br />

dream come true and built a sports<br />

field in the garden of the institution.<br />

Back in London on 5th December,<br />

the Emeralds and Ivy Ball marked<br />

its 10th anniversary in aid of Cancer<br />

Research UK and the Marie Keating<br />

Foundations. Hosted by Ronan<br />

Keating, the event is the main<br />

instrument for the foundations to work<br />

towards discovering new ways to<br />

prevent, diagnose and treat cancer,<br />

and eventually bring forward the day<br />

when all cancers are cured.<br />

We have a winner for #ShellMeMyName<br />

We had such a great time going<br />

through all the suggestions and with<br />

such wonderful inspirations, selecting<br />

a winner was way harder than we<br />

thought. After much consideration,<br />

the winning name is Nanaboozhoo,<br />

submitted by Tatiana Humphreys!<br />

Her inspiration comes from the<br />

native Indian legend “The Turtle<br />

Island” in which the turtle sacrifices<br />

itself by placing Earth on its back to<br />

save others. Nanaboozhoo is one of<br />

the main heroes in this legend. We are<br />

already planning Tatiana’s stay and<br />

it looks like she is going to celebrate<br />

Valentine’s Day with us.<br />

Through this campaign, we got to<br />

share a bit more about the sea turtle<br />

identification program in Maldives,<br />

and the work conducted by our team<br />

and partner Olive Ridley Project in<br />

protecting these critically endangered<br />

species. Stay in touch for more<br />

competitions in 2016!<br />

www.cococollection.com 9


The Accidental<br />

Hotelier<br />

Adele Verdier-Ali<br />

In this issue, we begin to tell the story of<br />

Coco Collection. Here, we trace the origins<br />

of the brand’s success to its very roots.<br />

“Let’s be very frank,” says Coco<br />

Collection Chairman and Managing<br />

Director, Mr Shabeer Ahmed as we<br />

sit down for coffee in the lounge<br />

of a glitzy Hong Kong hotel, “my<br />

becoming a hotelier was accidental.<br />

I was in the right place at the<br />

right time.” Straightforward and<br />

approachable, Mr Shabeer has a<br />

“The story<br />

begins over 35<br />

years ago when<br />

Mr Shabeer was<br />

selected by<br />

the Maldivian<br />

government to<br />

join a two-year<br />

engineering<br />

course in Japan”<br />

congenial humility when it comes to<br />

his success. Some might find this<br />

surprising considering that he is in<br />

Hong Kong to receive the latest in<br />

a long line of prestigious awards<br />

bestowed upon Coco Collection. Yet<br />

over the next hour, as he reminisces<br />

about the beginnings of the company<br />

and describes a life of 18-hour days,<br />

working two jobs and overcoming<br />

Mr Shabeer Ahmed in 1988<br />

infinite obstacles, it becomes<br />

apparent that his accomplishments<br />

have very little to do with luck. Rather,<br />

they are the fruit of a combination of<br />

foresight, enterprise and (at times)<br />

sheer, dogged will.<br />

The story begins over 35 years<br />

ago when Mr Shabeer was selected<br />

by the Maldivian government to join<br />

a two-year engineering course in<br />

10<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


COCO STORY<br />

groups would arrive and leave on the<br />

same day, with resorts operating back<br />

to back.”<br />

In comparison to the international<br />

tour operators, Sunland Travel was<br />

a small fish in the Maldivian pond.<br />

Resorts were far keener to work with<br />

tour operators that were bringing<br />

in tourists in bulk and would often<br />

give preferential treatment to those<br />

agencies. “Staying in business was<br />

difficult because I couldn’t compete<br />

with those numbers and room<br />

availability was so scarce in those<br />

days,” Mr Shabeer says.<br />

Mr. Shabeer with Kanazawa-san from Groovy Tours, Sunland Travel’s first partner<br />

Japan, fresh out of his A-level class at Shabeer explains. And so, whenever a<br />

Majeediyya School. The government plane with Japanese tourists landed,<br />

sponsorship was part of a national Mr Shabeer would go to the arrival<br />

initiative to upgrade the airport to hall and greet the relevant guests,<br />

international status, prompted by a escorting them to the awaiting dhonis<br />

mounting number of tourist arrivals. that would convey them to the resorts.<br />

Upon his return, Mr Shabeer would<br />

Very soon, this part-time meet-andgreet<br />

service expanded and Mr<br />

then utilise his knowledge in the<br />

engineering department of the airport.<br />

Shabeer decided to register a<br />

However, once there something<br />

company: Sunland Travel Pte Ltd.<br />

crucial happened that would later<br />

Alongside the ground-handling<br />

expedite his move into the tourism<br />

element of the business, he started<br />

business: he learnt Japanese.<br />

buying rooms from the other hoteliers<br />

Upon his return to the Maldives and selling them to the Japanese<br />

in 1981, he joined the engineering travel agencies. He began visiting<br />

department at the airport as planned Japan on a regular basis, travelling<br />

but kept in contact with the many the entire country to meet with travel<br />

friends he’d made in Japan. And agents in an attempt to promote<br />

a few years later in 1984, when Air the company. And all the while, Mr<br />

Lanka (now SriLankan Airlines) started Shabeer continued to work in his<br />

flying directly from Colombo to Tokyo, government role at the airport.<br />

the numbers of Japanese tourists in<br />

“The biggest difficulty during<br />

the Maldives began creeping up.<br />

those days was that I was dealing<br />

“I began to receive requests with tourists that arrived on FIT (Free<br />

from my friends in Japan - who Independent Traveller) status,” Mr<br />

were working with the General Sales Shabeer explains. “The traffic from<br />

Agents of Air Lanka - asking me to Europe on the other hand, was<br />

help with the arrival logistics,” Mr arriving via chartered flights. Huge<br />

Unlike today, during the late 80s<br />

there were very few resort islands and<br />

the government was slow to give more<br />

islands for development. So whilst<br />

demand was increasing, room stock<br />

remained the same. “It was difficult to<br />

secure rooms,” Mr Shabeer recalls,<br />

“everywhere was full, sometimes even<br />

overbooked.” When that happened,<br />

guests who had booked via smaller<br />

local operators were the first to get<br />

bumped. Nevertheless, Mr Shabeer<br />

continued undeterred and as a result<br />

“As a small local<br />

tour operator,<br />

you never knew<br />

whether you’d exist<br />

tomorrow.”<br />

of his hard work, Sunland Travel soon<br />

garnered a reputation for reliability.<br />

Ground handling continued to<br />

constitute an important part of the<br />

business, with the company handling<br />

guests from airlines such as Eva Air,<br />

flying direct to Male’ from Taipei. “In<br />

those days, all airline tickets had to be<br />

www.cococollection.com 11


“Yet the<br />

government<br />

continued to hold<br />

back on putting<br />

islands out for<br />

tender. Until one<br />

night that is, when<br />

Mr Shabeer came<br />

home to find his<br />

wife holding the<br />

newspaper.”<br />

reconfirmed,” explains Mr Shabeer,<br />

“which meant collecting the tickets<br />

from the guests when they arrive,<br />

reconfirming them with the office<br />

in Male’ and bringing them back to<br />

the airport on the day of the guests’<br />

departure. So they had to put an awful<br />

lot of trust in us.”<br />

For several years, Mr Shabeer<br />

handled all aspects of the Japanese<br />

tourist arrivals. These guests normally<br />

Mr Shabeer in Japan, during the Maldives first official roadshow<br />

arrived on late night Singapore Airlines those days, everyone who worked<br />

flights, which meant staying at the for the government wanted to work<br />

airport until very late. This was made for 20 years so that they would have<br />

even tougher by the early morning Air a pension,” he recalls, “and I also<br />

Lanka arrivals!<br />

considered it.” Ultimately though, Mr<br />

Shabeer (who had been reneging on<br />

At the same time he continued<br />

sleep to accomplish all his goals,)<br />

with his government airport position<br />

admitted that there were simply<br />

which consumed most of the day for<br />

not enough hours in the day, and<br />

some more years. “Every night after I<br />

tendered his resignation.<br />

came home from the airport, I would<br />

deal with booking confirmations and By the mid-90s, Sunland Travel was<br />

invoices, sending messages from a fairly well established but he wanted<br />

Telex machine I had installed in my to somehow secure control over beds<br />

bedroom,” he laughs.<br />

if he were to survive in the business.<br />

“As a small local tour operator, you<br />

Business continued to grow. “In<br />

never knew whether you’d exist<br />

tomorrow. And I thought, ‘If we want to<br />

continue in this business, we need to<br />

have more control over beds’.”<br />

Yet the government continued to<br />

hold back on putting islands out for<br />

tender. Until one night that is, when<br />

Mr Shabeer came home to find his<br />

wife holding the newspaper. An island<br />

had been made available for tender,<br />

the paper announced. An island that<br />

would change everything…<br />

Male’ International Airport<br />

12<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


www.cococollection.com 13


The Art of<br />

CELEBRATION<br />

Ahmed Mauroof Jameel<br />

14<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


COVER PHOTO STORY ESSAY<br />

These arches, known as ‘gidige’ are erected for national celebrations<br />

Maldivian celebrations take<br />

many varied forms, likely<br />

owing to the fact that the<br />

archipelago is a melting pot of<br />

seafaring cultures crisscrossing<br />

the globe and the ages. Festivities<br />

incorporate anything from elaborately<br />

choreographed performances to<br />

trancelike crescendos, sombre<br />

religious experiences to island-wide<br />

water fights. While certain kinds<br />

of celebrations are dying out or<br />

changing with the times, certain<br />

aspects persist and are worth noting<br />

as they set Maldivian celebration<br />

apart.<br />

Island life creates a strong spirit of<br />

community that moulds inhabitants<br />

in certain ways. This spirit permeates<br />

celebrations despite changing times,<br />

and communities still come together<br />

in a big way for celebration.<br />

Come Ramadan, neighbourhoods<br />

and wards would compete with<br />

each other to decorate streets and<br />

communal areas, eschewing working<br />

on individual homes. Prestigious<br />

affairs held on auspicious days, like<br />

bodu maaloodhu, are usually followed<br />

by a day and night of feasting. The<br />

whole island gets involved, and<br />

matters of food and drink occur on<br />

a wholly different scale. Drinks are<br />

made in stoppered wells, and it’s<br />

common fare for attendees to eat as a<br />

group out of oversized plates carrying<br />

oversized dishes.<br />

“Maldivians love<br />

their food and<br />

festivity but<br />

there’s one thing<br />

they love more:<br />

mischief.”<br />

Maldivians love their food and<br />

festivity but there’s one thing they<br />

love more: mischief. It is common<br />

practice to play pranks on newlyweds<br />

to sabotage their wedding nights. This<br />

could involve anything from whisking<br />

the bride away or putting livestock in<br />

the bedroom. Eid celebrations usually<br />

involve island-wide water fights and<br />

koadikedun, where unmarried men<br />

have to brave a mob of the island’s<br />

womenfolk through the lagoon to<br />

reach an object hoisted on a pole.<br />

The only prize is acknowledgment of<br />

bravery, for the man who succeeds is<br />

violently scrubbed clean, powdered<br />

and paraded around the island, a<br />

prisoner of the women.<br />

Rounding out this wilder side is a<br />

sense of decorum that manifests in<br />

performances like dhandi jehun (‘the<br />

striking of sticks’). Possessed of a<br />

martial quality and a sense of gravitas,<br />

dhandi jehun can be as varied as<br />

the character of the islands but often<br />

start slow and build into something<br />

blindingly fast. They are invariably<br />

measured and elaborate. These<br />

qualities also appear in performances<br />

like fali jehun, a martial rowing<br />

performance accompanied by a beat<br />

and shanty. These more sombre<br />

forms of celebration usually mark<br />

the arrival of important dignitaries or<br />

presentation of gifts.<br />

Note that while certain aspects of<br />

celebration stand out, each island has<br />

its own way of doing things. So there’s<br />

always more to see!<br />

www.cococollection.com 15


1<br />

1 Women performing a traditional ‘dhandi jehun’ dance<br />

2 Men gather for a ‘jaafaiy’, a shared celebratory meal<br />

3 During celebrations, children throw paint and enjoy water fights<br />

4 Islanders dress up as ‘maali’, invented whimsical characters to<br />

entertain their neighbours.<br />

2<br />

16<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


PHOTO ESSAY<br />

3<br />

4<br />

www.cococollection.com 17


1<br />

2 3<br />

18<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


PHOTO ESSAY<br />

4<br />

5<br />

1 Young men perform bodu beru drumming<br />

2 Coconut tree climbing competitions are a fun celebration ritual<br />

3 Traditional dancing to the rythyms of bodu beru<br />

4 Children and adults alike enjoy water fights throughout the islands<br />

5 Islanders preparing for a koadikedun<br />

www.cococollection.com 19


Santa’s<br />

Helpers<br />

WORDS: NASHIU ZAHIR PHOTOS: MAHIN FAYAZ<br />

Our carpentry workshops may be out of sight but they are a<br />

hub of activity throughout the year. No less so at Christmas,<br />

when Santa recruits a few more helpers to ensure the islands<br />

brim with a festive cheer that is kind to the environment.


COCO FAMILY<br />

You expect everyone to be busy<br />

during the festive season, that is,<br />

everyone working in hospitality. This<br />

applies to all departments. At Coco<br />

Bodu Hithi, the carpentry department<br />

is a bustle of activity. Headed by<br />

Nestor Delacruz Barrozo, a Filipino<br />

with a love for the trade, the small<br />

troupe of seven carpenters are<br />

engrossed in making decorations and<br />

small but beautiful gifts for guests.<br />

Not that they do not have other work;<br />

they also conduct repairs of, and<br />

in some cases, make, the island’s<br />

beautiful wooden furniture.<br />

Head carpenter Nestor is a soft<br />

spoken man who comes from Lupi,<br />

Camarine Sur in the Philippines. He<br />

was not always into carpentry; he<br />

worked as a baker to support his<br />

family soon after quitting college.<br />

“My father fell sick,” Nestor recalls.<br />

“So he couldn’t finance my studies<br />

and I had to work.” He joined the<br />

national railway corporation after his<br />

bakery stint, working as a labourer<br />

and later as a foreman. Then, upon<br />

recommendation of a friend he learnt<br />

carpentry at a vocational institute.<br />

Nestor found out that he had a natural<br />

aptitude for it. “After I’d completed my<br />

training I worked in the Philippines<br />

and earned quite a bit,” he says. “It<br />

was good money and I really enjoyed<br />

the work.” Then in the mid 90s, he<br />

took his first job in the Maldives when<br />

he joined Makunudu resort in 1994.<br />

Then he moved to Coco Palm Dhuni<br />

Kolhu in 1998 and later in 2006, to<br />

Coco Bodu Hithi where he has made<br />

himself at home.<br />

Nestor’s team has come up with a<br />

few surprises for the guests at Coco<br />

Bodu Hithi. One is a handcrafted<br />

miniature dhoni, which will appear in<br />

all guest rooms. There is real division<br />

of labour involved in its production.<br />

One makes the hull from coconut<br />

husks, another makes the sails from<br />

the gauze-like material found in<br />

coconut palms, yet another makes<br />

the rudder and wooden components<br />

of the vessel. The completed work is<br />

a thing of beauty, a testament to the<br />

craftsmanship of Coco Bodu Hithi’s<br />

skilled carpenters.<br />

It was not always that easy to<br />

create a dhoni, Nestor muses,<br />

mentioning that it took him three days<br />

to make one on the first attempt. But<br />

then he was working on his own and<br />

now he and his team can produce<br />

over ten of them per day.<br />

Another little Christmas titbit is the<br />

small Christmas tree; Nestor and his<br />

www.cococollection.com 21


colleagues make them using fallen<br />

twigs of trees. The little pieces of<br />

wood are arranged in a criss-cross<br />

pattern and decorated with tiny<br />

ornaments. Nestor reckons the team<br />

can churn out about 15 of these<br />

beauties a day. They are to brighten<br />

up each guest room as well, small but<br />

delightful tokens of the season.<br />

The air is no less frenzied at Coco<br />

Palm Dhuni Kolhu, the Baa Atoll<br />

property of Coco Collection. When I<br />

visit I meet A.K Ali and a team of six<br />

other carpenters who have their noses<br />

to the grindstone, making gifts for the<br />

season.<br />

Assistant Head Carpenter Ali,<br />

who comes from a small town in<br />

Tamil Nadu, India, has been involved<br />

in carpentry for most of his life,<br />

unlike Nestor who took it up in his<br />

mid-thirties. After eight years of<br />

school, he got into the trade because<br />

it was something he had a passion for<br />

at an early age. “My neighbourhood<br />

had a few carpentry workshops,” he<br />

says. “I got into it in my teens and<br />

I haven’t looked back since.” Ali is<br />

a man of many talents; although<br />

carpentry is his passion, he knows<br />

how to fix things, he’s something of a<br />

mechanic, a mason and a plumber all<br />

rolled into one. In fact, his introduction<br />

to Coco Collection was as a<br />

construction worker, working in Coco<br />

Palm Dhuni Kolhu back in 1995. Then<br />

he joined the carpentry crew at Coco<br />

Palm Dhuni Kolhu the following year.<br />

“The small troupe of seven<br />

carpenters is engrossed in<br />

making decorations and<br />

small but beautiful gifts for<br />

guests.”<br />

The carpentry workshop in<br />

Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu is large<br />

and crowded with planks of wood,<br />

furniture and odds and ends. This<br />

is where Ali and his team do their<br />

business. “We repair all the resort’s<br />

furniture here,” he says. “Not only that,<br />

we make many things from scratch<br />

here, too.” An array of wooden items<br />

required by the resort are made to<br />

specifications at the workshop. These<br />

include major works like furniture<br />

(including parasols) and signage. The<br />

carpenters also make smaller wooden<br />

items like the new in-room phone<br />

directories with their twiggy bases and<br />

smartly painted text, small wooden<br />

labels for the food at the buffet, and<br />

wooden key-tags.<br />

Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu’s gifts and<br />

decorations look impressive. Take<br />

the ginger-bread house for instance.<br />

It is meticulously designed and<br />

accompanied by a small tower. Their<br />

roofs come off, so that their interiors<br />

can be decorated. These houses and<br />

the towers will appear in the resort’s<br />

main restaurant during the festive<br />

season, where they will be decorated<br />

with frosting, biscuits and lights. A real<br />

treat for the eyes, Ali assures and it is<br />

not hard to believe him.<br />

The Christmas decorations also<br />

include wreaths that will be hung in<br />

each of the resort’s 98 rooms. Though<br />

made of scrap plywood a lot of care<br />

went to their making. Decorated<br />

22<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


COCO FAMILY<br />

Head Carpenter Nestor Delacruz Barrozo<br />

www.cococollection.com 23


COCO FAMILY<br />

with wood shavings and bits of coral<br />

(taken from the beach, not the reef),<br />

they also feature three bamboo<br />

components, giving them a slightly<br />

oriental twist.<br />

A new year’s gift for each room<br />

is also in the making. Ali reveals a<br />

silhouette of a dhoni with palm trees<br />

sprouting from the middle, whose<br />

fronds bear the New Year greeting.<br />

They too are made by recycling left<br />

over bits of wood. The palm trees are<br />

decorated in fine sand while the dhoni<br />

sports dark brown sawdust.<br />

You may not notice them, or<br />

even be aware of their existence;<br />

carpenters are for the most part<br />

invisible, much of their work is done<br />

behind the scenes. But they are an<br />

integral part of the Coco family, and<br />

during the season of festivities, they<br />

go the extra mile to contribute to the<br />

spirit of the season. They are also<br />

unsung advocates of re-using and<br />

recycling; most the seasons’ gifts are<br />

not imported but made from local<br />

materials and leftover wood. So think<br />

of Nestor, Ali and their team when you<br />

see that special trinket in your room.<br />

DHONI TROLLEY<br />

The dhoni housekeeping trolley is a particular triumph of Coco Palm<br />

Dhuni Kolhu’s carpentry team. Elegantly designed to accommodate all<br />

housekeeping items, the dhoni trolleys feature a small hut whose roofs act as<br />

flaps so that items can be stored and retrieved. At the prow of the trolley is<br />

another flap covering more storage space.<br />

The brainchild of Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu’s erstwhile head carpenter<br />

Ibrahim Zahir, the trolleys are iconic symbols of the Coco Collection resorts.<br />

Representing an ideal Maldivian-ness, they are multifaceted signifiers of what<br />

it means to be Maldivian: unique, artistic, resourceful, pragmatic.<br />

24<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


GIFT GUIDE<br />

Festive Gifts<br />

All Wrapped Up!<br />

Mariyam Athiza Athif<br />

The festive season is here. And<br />

while it’s a time for celebrating<br />

the ones you love and enjoying<br />

hearty home cooked meals with them,<br />

it’s also a time for gift shopping,<br />

sometimes on crunch mode. It might<br />

be a daunting task to figure out what<br />

to get for friends and relatives who<br />

seem to have it all, especially while<br />

you are so far away from home.<br />

To help you out, we’ve prepared<br />

the ultimate guide to help you find<br />

creative and uniquely Maldivian gift<br />

ideas for everyone on your list. The<br />

following are authentic souvenirs<br />

carefully crafted by the local folks from<br />

all over the Maldives. They are little<br />

reflections of the unique culture and<br />

beauty of the country that you can<br />

take back home to share with your<br />

friends and family.<br />

www.cococollection.com 25


FOR DAD<br />

Miniature dhoni<br />

The Maldivian traditional dhoni boat encompasses the knowledge and<br />

skill of the carpenters who traditionally built them without any drawings or<br />

plans. Gift your dad with a miniature version of this handsome vessel and<br />

share with him the numerous Maldivian adventures you had in the sea.<br />

FOR A SISTER<br />

Bottle of white<br />

Maldivian sand<br />

Your feet have been grazing the<br />

soft, white and sandy beaches<br />

throughout your holiday in the<br />

Maldives. Get your sister one<br />

of these little bottles of sand<br />

and instil in her a desire for<br />

escapades and exploration.<br />

FOR MOM<br />

Lacquer vase<br />

Skilfully hand carved with intricate<br />

designs in red, black and yellow,<br />

an authentic Maldivian lacquer<br />

vase is the absolute gift for your<br />

mum especially if she’s into<br />

ornamenting and collecting. The<br />

finest lacquer work is said to be<br />

found on Thulhaadhoo in Baa<br />

Atoll where the abstract hand<br />

carved patterns can be found on<br />

wooden pots and jewellery boxes<br />

in addition to the vases of varying<br />

sizes.<br />

FOR A BROTHER<br />

Wooden turtle<br />

Traditionally, wood carving was a craft that allowed locals to make utensils<br />

such as pots and spoons. The craft has evolved over the years to produce<br />

an assortment of items that include quirky salt and pepper shakers to<br />

miniature models of marine animals. If you’ve gone diving in the Maldives,<br />

it’s likely that you’ve met a turtle. So gift your brother with a miniature turtle<br />

and tell him all about the magnificent animal.<br />

26<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


GIFT GUIDE<br />

FOR AN UNCLE<br />

Roanu<br />

FOR GRANDMA<br />

Raa bandhi<br />

Gift your uncle with this sturdy rope that’s both practical and ornamental.<br />

Roanu or coir rope is made from the husk of ripe coconuts and the process<br />

of making roanu is locally known as roanu veshun. The coconut husks are<br />

first buried in the beach for a few weeks so that the waves would soak<br />

them. Then, the fibre within the husks are removed and sundried before it<br />

is spun between skilful hands. If a rope doesn’t feel like much of a present,<br />

you can also go for a small roanu floor mat.<br />

Traditionally, the flower bud of<br />

the coconut tree is cut at the tip<br />

before it blossoms and the raa<br />

bandhi is hung right beneath it<br />

to collect its sap which used to<br />

be a much enjoyed drink, both<br />

sweet and pungent. Gift your<br />

grandma with this traditional<br />

toddy collecting pot. If she’s<br />

into gardening, she could use<br />

it as a hanging container, and if<br />

not it would also be a beautiful<br />

decorative item that she could<br />

hang in her porch, kitchen or<br />

anywhere else in her home.<br />

FOR AN AUNT<br />

Thundu kunaa placemats<br />

FOR GRANDPA<br />

An Ovvalhugondi<br />

Ovvalhugondi is a traditional<br />

board game. The board itself<br />

is carved out of wood and the<br />

game is played with cowry shells<br />

or madhoshi, the bright red<br />

seeds of the coral wood tree. Gift<br />

your grandpa with one of these,<br />

and maybe enjoy a few games<br />

with him as well.<br />

Thundu kunaa are mats traditionally used for sleeping, seating<br />

and praying. While a full sized mat might not be a convenient<br />

choice, the same intricately woven mats are now made in<br />

placemat sizes. The mats are hand woven to traditional<br />

designs although weavers sometimes introduce slight hints of<br />

individuality. Weavers also often cultivate their own grass, which<br />

they sun dry, and make their own dyes by using leaves and roots.<br />

www.cococollection.com 27


Philippe Laurella<br />

Portrait of the Artist<br />

Adele Verdier-Ali sits down with a man of many talents.<br />

Male’, the capital of Maldives, is<br />

a small place. Over 100,000<br />

people are crammed into two<br />

square kilometres. Sharing narrow<br />

pavements, walking the same roads,<br />

convening in the same coffee shops –<br />

day in, day out. So if you look slightly<br />

different in this surging sea of faces,<br />

you’re going to get noticed, and<br />

recognised. It will come as no surprise<br />

then, that Philippe Laurella, with his<br />

shock of unruly brilliant white hair,<br />

Hawaiian shirts and trusty briefcase<br />

forever in one hand, is a man who’s<br />

hard to miss.<br />

Sporadically, throughout my five<br />

years in the Maldives, I’ve spotted<br />

Philippe in these congested streets.<br />

And as is the way in the Maldives,<br />

the information reached me as if<br />

by osmosis, that Philippe, a French<br />

national, was a designer and builder<br />

28<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


LOCAL ARTISTS<br />

of boats.<br />

In fact, more than that, Philippe is<br />

famous amongst locals and expats<br />

alike for being the first man to build<br />

and captain a liveaboard safari vessel<br />

in the country. So upon finally sitting<br />

down with Philippe, it is with some<br />

surprise that he describes himself<br />

as a painter. But I am getting ahead<br />

of myself. Let’s rewind somewhat. A<br />

great deal, in fact….<br />

It’s the late 1970s and lure of the<br />

East still tightly grips the longhaired<br />

hippies of Western Europe.<br />

Disillusioned youngsters are seeping<br />

out of the continent in their droves,<br />

in search of enlightenment and<br />

adventure. Laurella, 30 years old and<br />

at the tail end of an unsuccessful<br />

marriage, decides to sell his printing<br />

press company and join them. He<br />

purchases a ticket for the ‘magic bus’,<br />

and sets off for Kathmandu.<br />

Several months later, he had<br />

spanned the sub-continent and found<br />

himself in a south-Indian harbour,<br />

boarding a ship to the Maldives<br />

where he thought he would spend a<br />

few days. He ended up staying 18<br />

months. What came later is a story<br />

that he’s told many times.<br />

After a short trip to France to<br />

settle some business affairs, he<br />

returned to the Maldives and it has<br />

been his home ever since. With no<br />

formal education in the subject,<br />

Philippe, through flair, practice and<br />

experimentation, soon became one<br />

of the most renowned boat builders in<br />

the country, designing all manner of<br />

vessels throughout his career.<br />

But now, four decades later, his<br />

drive to design boats is waning.<br />

“Building boats is a physical job, and<br />

I’m 74,” he says over a cup of coffee<br />

in his airy apartment (which turns out<br />

to be 50 metres from my own), “so<br />

these days I prefer to paint.” This is<br />

www.cococollection.com 29


not to say that Philippe aspires to the<br />

life of a leisurely pensioner, whiling<br />

away his twilight years at his easel.<br />

Far from it! Instead, he approaches<br />

painting with an energy and<br />

enthusiasm that is frankly exhausting.<br />

“People dream of being retired, and<br />

of doing nothing,” he exclaims with<br />

disdain, “but that path leads directly<br />

to the grave! We have to be active!”<br />

His paintings radiate with this<br />

vigour and liveliness. Almost all of<br />

his canvases depict wildlife found<br />

in the Maldives, most notably the<br />

indigenous fish and birds. From his<br />

paintbrush they swarm and swirl<br />

across his large canvases, painted in<br />

gouache and watercolour. Repetition<br />

and patterns feature predominantly,<br />

as does movement. There is a certain<br />

naivety to his pieces that makes<br />

them reminiscent of folk art, yet at the<br />

same time each species he depicts


LOCAL ARTISTS<br />

is anatomically precise, and detailed.<br />

Invariably, his paintings are cheerful<br />

in mood, and as animated as their<br />

creator.<br />

Yet despite his obvious passion<br />

for the arts, I’m surprised to learn that<br />

Laurella started painting fairly late in<br />

life. “It was a rainy day in 1998 and I<br />

had nothing to do,” he recalls. “So I<br />

picked up a paintbrush to pass the<br />

time and discovered I could paint.”<br />

The finding didn’t surprise him a great<br />

deal though, as he comes from a<br />

family of artists, writers, painters and<br />

musicians who ensured he lived a<br />

colourful childhood.<br />

From then on, parallel to his career<br />

in boat building, Laurella painted<br />

abundantly. Whenever, he held an<br />

exhibition it would sell out within<br />

days. For a few years, he sold pieces<br />

www.cococollection.com 31


y hanging them on the wall of an<br />

Italian restaurant called Twin Peaks<br />

in Male’. “I sold 800 paintings from<br />

Twin Peaks,” he recalls. “One day<br />

a British businessman bought 35<br />

pieces at once! The only problem was<br />

that he wanted them in Hong Kong<br />

within three days, but I managed.” He<br />

also sold limited edition prints from<br />

souvenir shops, which proved very<br />

popular with divers and underwater<br />

enthusiasts who snapped up his<br />

vibrant scenes.<br />

Despite this, it was never an<br />

avenue Laurella could pursue fulltime.<br />

“Painting could never pay all the bills,”<br />

he admits, “which is why I’ve always<br />

built boats.”<br />

Nowadays however, this appears<br />

to be changing. Recently, upon seeing<br />

limited edition prints of Laurella’s


LOCAL ARTISTS<br />

www.cococollection.com 33


LOCAL ARTISTS<br />

work in a local shop, an American<br />

tourist contacted him and ultimately<br />

negotiated the purchase of the<br />

copyright to Philippe’s complete<br />

works, effective exclusively in the<br />

United States. On the back of this,<br />

Philippe is now preparing for an<br />

extensive exhibition in Miami. Another<br />

is scheduled to be held in Australia.<br />

He is also in talks with high-end<br />

printers in France to produce a range<br />

of more exclusive limited editions,<br />

which he believes will be more<br />

lucrative than selling originals.<br />

And so, it appears that the<br />

Maldivian boating industry could be<br />

ceding its greatest icon to the art<br />

world. “I’ve already got enough work<br />

for the next ten years,” he laughs, “so<br />

why would I carry on building boats if I<br />

can quietly make my paintings?”<br />

34<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


ISLAND CULTURE<br />

HAGNAAMEEDHOO<br />

Where a king rests<br />

Nashiu Zahir<br />

In the 17th century, a Maldivian king<br />

was slain whilst fleeing a gang of<br />

marauding Malabar pirates. His body,<br />

along with his ship, washed ashore<br />

on the beaches of Hagnaameedhoo<br />

in South Ari Atoll. Today he still lies<br />

entombed alongside his manservant in<br />

the grounds of the island mosque.<br />

www.cococollection.com 35


Quick Facts<br />

Location: Alif Dhaal Atoll<br />

(Latitude 3.849193, Longitude 72.954177)<br />

Distance from INIA: 74 kilometres<br />

Population: 700 approx.<br />

Health Centres: 1<br />

Schools: 2<br />

Cafés and Restaurants: 4<br />

The king’s tomb sits inside the mosque compound<br />

In the 17th century, a king was<br />

slain whilst fleeing marauding Malabar<br />

pirates. His body, along with his ship,<br />

washed ashore on the shores of<br />

Hagnaameedhoo in South Ari Atoll.<br />

Today, the sleepy island provides a<br />

glimpse into a bygone era.<br />

Why would anyone want to go to<br />

Hagnaameedhoo? The question is<br />

put to me while I am in the midst of<br />

planning my trip to the island. I have<br />

never been to South Ari Atoll, and<br />

Hagnaameedhoo is accessible (the<br />

speedboat ride from Male’ takes<br />

just over an hour). There is good<br />

snorkelling to be had in its vicinity.<br />

Plus it has a history; the body of a<br />

king is buried there, marked by a<br />

tomb. Why not, I think.<br />

So I find a guesthouse, the Local<br />

Island Inn, and I find out from a friend<br />

that a company called HMIH Travels<br />

operates regular speedboat transfers<br />

to and from Hagnaameedhoo, four<br />

days a week. I ring up their hotline<br />

and book a seat. I was set for the trip.<br />

I arrive on the island around<br />

5:15pm after a relaxing journey<br />

across a placid November sea. I am<br />

greeted at the jetty by the guesthouse<br />

“What to make of<br />

Hagnaameedhoo<br />

then? Its languid<br />

nature, its welcoming<br />

people, its history<br />

and off-the-beatentrack<br />

charm make it a<br />

special place.”<br />

manager’s brother, Adil Adam, the<br />

guesthouse manager. He tells me<br />

everyone calls him Santana, a token<br />

of the time he spent as a DJ in<br />

resorts.<br />

I follow him, catching snippets of<br />

rural life; men and women in joalis,<br />

enjoying conversation and the late<br />

afternoon breeze. A group of children<br />

squeal past ahead of their entourage<br />

of parents. Political party insignia and<br />

slogans adorn the walls of buildings.<br />

Most are single storied, some old<br />

and rambling with coral walls, others<br />

brightly painted, flashes of colour in<br />

an otherwise dull street. There is little<br />

noise besides the occasional caw of<br />

a crow.<br />

After checking in, I want to catch<br />

the sunset on the beach. Santana tells<br />

me that some guesthouses on the<br />

island had got together to make a little<br />

private beach area in the west side of<br />

the island. The beach is empty when<br />

I arrive, and I enjoy a fine sunset in<br />

welcome solitude.<br />

The next morning after breakfast,<br />

Santana suggests that I go snorkelling<br />

around Ali Koi Rah. It is a nearby islet<br />

36<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


ISLAND CULTURE<br />

that guests frequent for sunbathing,<br />

and for a taste of that coveted desert<br />

island experience. I am entrusted to a<br />

young man, Arsal, who guides me to<br />

a small speedboat. The sea is calm<br />

but even the smallest wave makes<br />

itself felt.<br />

Arsal says something over the<br />

growl of the engine and points to the<br />

horizon. The islet appears a fleck of<br />

white in the distance, growing larger<br />

as we approach it. But not by much.<br />

Arsal takes the boat right to the shore<br />

and I jump off. The only vegetation<br />

there is clusters of grass and shrubs.<br />

All around is snowy sand surrounded<br />

by swathes of blue-green lagoon. It is<br />

deserving of the word pristine.<br />

The water is so inviting that I want<br />

to dive right in. Arsal suggests I try<br />

the reef slope instead and we board<br />

the boat. Soon we are on the outskirts<br />

of the reef. I don the mask and fins<br />

that Santana provided and take the<br />

plunge.<br />

It is a veritable garden beneath<br />

the waves, sculpted to perfection by<br />

nature, a cornucopia of multihued<br />

corals with fish darting in and out<br />

of crevices. Banner fish, fusilier,<br />

triggerfish, and swarms of sprats with<br />

sunlight glinting off their silvery scales<br />

have made this reef their home. It is a<br />

truly beguiling sight, with the power to<br />

captivate for hours on end.<br />

That afternoon I visit the tomb<br />

of Sultan Ibrahim III (Kalaafaan). It<br />

is a stone’s throw from the harbour<br />

area, and easy to spot because of<br />

the white flags surrounding his burial<br />

plot. The compound includes another<br />

tomb, that of Jamal Kalo who fought<br />

beside the sultan and died with him.<br />

It also houses an ancient mosque<br />

whose interior boasts fine Maldivian<br />

craftsmanship.<br />

Sultan Ibrahim III Kalaafaan of the Utheemu Dynasty was the son of the legendary Ghazee<br />

Muhammad Thakurufaan al-Auzam, who drove away the Portuguese from the Maldives and became<br />

king. Kalaafaan reigned from 1585-1609.<br />

The French explorer François Pyrard, who was in the Maldives during Kalaafaan’s reign says this: ...he<br />

was in nowise inclined to war, but solely to letters, sciences and manufactures and he was also much given<br />

to women, as, indeed, was nothing remarkable in that land. (Pyrard VI. P252)<br />

Renowned Maldivian historian and judge Hassan Tajuddeen (1661-1727) is more respectful and<br />

says of Kalaafaan in his Tarikh Deeba Mahal: He was a sensible generous King, an awe-inspiring,<br />

magnificent, equitable and just Sultan; a learned scholar.<br />

Sultan Kalaafaan was aboard his vessel fleeing from Malabar pirates – from the southern region of<br />

India, lying between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea – when he was slain. He was acting upon<br />

advice by judge Mohamed Fandiyaaru Kaleygefan that it was better to run and hide than to fight. The<br />

Sultan was believed to have been killed with a lance thrown at him by his pursuers. His abandoned ship<br />

washed ashore on Hagnaameedhoo and his wives and nobles entombed him by the mosque. We know this<br />

from an ancient document relating to the death of the king, written in Dives script.<br />

In the past successive kings and<br />

queens had spent considerably<br />

on the maintenance of the tomb;<br />

this is evidenced by the Kalaafaan<br />

Manuscripts, documents, some<br />

centuries old, regarding the upkeep<br />

of the tomb. Even as recently as<br />

1930, the then prime minister Abdul<br />

Majeed Didi’s Grant prescribed to<br />

the inhabitants of Hagnaameedhoo<br />

a yearly payment of six thousand<br />

coconuts, eighteen bundles of coir<br />

rope, sixty bottles of coconut oil, two<br />

hundred pieces of cadjans and five<br />

fowls. A small fortune, in other words.<br />

However, Ali Moosa, who looked<br />

after the tomb for over two decades,<br />

says that there is no one overseeing<br />

its affairs anymore, at least not in an<br />

official capacity. But he hopes that<br />

the interest in the tomb sparked by<br />

tourists will help keep it from falling<br />

into neglect. It’s part of our cultural<br />

heritage and an integral part of the<br />

island’s identity, he says. “We have to<br />

preserve it for future generations.”<br />

What to make of Hagnaameedhoo<br />

then? Its languid nature, its welcoming<br />

people, its proximity to beautiful reefs<br />

and islets, its history and off-thebeaten-track<br />

charm make it a special<br />

place. The latter aspect however is<br />

something that may well be lost in<br />

the near future; Santana reckons that<br />

several new guesthouses are going<br />

to open up in 2016. And when that<br />

happens, this quiet, little-known slice<br />

of paradise will metamorphose into<br />

something bolder. But until then, it is<br />

what it is.<br />

www.cococollection.com 37


The Chef’s Table<br />

Nashiu Zahir<br />

speaks to<br />

Coco Bodu<br />

Hithi Executive<br />

Chef I Wayan<br />

Sundira about<br />

his journey to<br />

becoming an<br />

executive chef.<br />

I<br />

Wayan Sudira, or Wayan as he is<br />

popularly known, is the executive<br />

chef at Coco Bodu Hithi. He was<br />

born in Bali, Indonesia to a modest<br />

family of farmers. In fact, he was<br />

something of a farmer himself when<br />

he was very young, working in the<br />

fields until he finished junior high<br />

school.<br />

A preternaturally driven young<br />

person, he put himself through<br />

high school with proceeds from his<br />

work on the farm. In high school he<br />

happened to attend a presentation<br />

on hospitality. “It was given by a<br />

BPLP representative at my school,”<br />

he recalls (BPLP is a prominent<br />

hospitality institute in Bali). “I was<br />

immediately taken with it. It seemed<br />

like a very promising career.”<br />

After high school, Wayan’s parents<br />

supported his year at the hospitality<br />

institute, where he learnt English and<br />

F & B production. “We had theory<br />

classes one week and we’d put our<br />

ideas into practice the next,” says<br />

Wayan. “It was a very interesting<br />

period in my life in many ways.”<br />

His first job was in a hotel in Ujung<br />

Padang, where he worked as a<br />

kitchen helper. After four years, Wayan<br />

was promoted to chef de partie.<br />

He moved around Indonesia for a<br />

few years, working in West Timor and<br />

later Lombok where he held chef de<br />

partie positions.<br />

He returned to Bali in 1988, where<br />

he joined the team at Sheraton<br />

during its pre-opening. There he had<br />

a fortuitous and defining encounter<br />

with an Australian chef, Willie Wilson.<br />

“He was the executive chef; a very<br />

charismatic, confident person and an<br />

excellent teacher,” Wayan reminisces.<br />

“I learnt a lot from him and soon<br />

I realised I wanted to be like him<br />

someday. I wanted to be an executive<br />

chef.”


COCO RECIPES<br />

Fresh local tuna tartar, one of Chef Wayan’s favourite dishes<br />

After a decade of hard work he<br />

accomplished this goal, becoming<br />

the executive chef at Soka Hotel<br />

in Cambodia where he stayed for<br />

two years. Then followed a stint in<br />

the Caribbean, where Wayan was,<br />

title-wise, a notch down as chef de<br />

cuisine. But it was a lucrative position<br />

and one that he enjoyed immensely.<br />

He later moved back to Indonesia,<br />

joining Montigo Resorts, Nongsa.<br />

While there, he was tempted by<br />

the suggestion of some friends to<br />

consider a move to the Maldives. “I’d<br />

heard good things about the place;<br />

that it was remarkably beautiful and<br />

had some of the best hospitality<br />

brands in the world,” he says. “The<br />

Maldives had been on my mind for a<br />

while, even then.”<br />

So in 2013, he joined the Coco<br />

family at Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu.<br />

“My first thought was simply ‘wow’,”<br />

he laughs. “I was thrilled with the<br />

place. It was so lush and green with<br />

a spectacular beach and lagoon.<br />

Also I was at a point in my life when<br />

“When guests<br />

compliment me<br />

or my team on<br />

the food, there’s<br />

nothing in the<br />

world that can<br />

quite match that<br />

feeling.”<br />

I was tired of the bustle of big cities,<br />

especially their traffic. At Coco Palm<br />

Dhuni Kolhu I could concentrate on<br />

my work and not have to worry about<br />

commuting back and forth.”<br />

He transferred to Coco Bodu<br />

Hithi just over a year ago, where he<br />

is the executive chef, supervising a<br />

team of nearly 70 staff. “Coco Bodu<br />

Hithi has everything,” he says. “It’s a<br />

sophisticated resort set in a beautiful<br />

island landscape. The management<br />

is attentive and respectful to the staff.<br />

Plus I have a great team with me who<br />

are willing to do what it takes to set<br />

the bar higher. And our guests are<br />

delighted to be here, because all<br />

departments have that team spirit and<br />

work towards the same goal.”<br />

When asked about what he likes<br />

best about his work he replies: “There<br />

are those moments that I cherish,<br />

when guests compliment me or my<br />

team on the food. There’s nothing in<br />

the world that can quite match that<br />

feeling.”<br />

www.cococollection.com 39


COCO RECIPES<br />

At Coco Bodu Hithi, Chef I Wayan Sundira cooks up an array of tantalising<br />

dishes daily. Here are just two of his favourites - try them out at home!<br />

GRILLED REEF FISH ON EGGPLANT,<br />

SAFFRON RICE WITH MALDIVIAN<br />

CHILLI AND RED ONION SALSA<br />

1 PORTION<br />

Ingredients<br />

180 grams Reef fish fillet skin off<br />

15 grams Lemon juice<br />

5 grams Salt<br />

5g grams Black pepper crushed<br />

15 ml Olive oil<br />

75 grams Saffron rice<br />

30 grams Blanched asparagus<br />

30 grams Grilled eggplant<br />

25 grams Maldivian chilli and red onion salsa<br />

20 grams Red chilli sambal<br />

5 grams Coriander<br />

Method of Preparation<br />

1 Marinate fish fillet with salt, pepper and olive oil<br />

2 Grill the fish till done<br />

3 Marinate the eggplant with salt, pepper and olive oil, and then<br />

grill till soft<br />

4 On the serving plate, place chilli sambal and grilled eggplant<br />

5 Put the fish on the eggplant<br />

6 Add saffron rice and maldivian chilli and onion salsa<br />

7 Garnish with fresh coriander leaves<br />

FRESH LOCAL TUNA TARTAR,<br />

TRUFFLE CHIPOTLE CHILLI<br />

SAUCE, SALMON ROE AND CRISPY<br />

TORTILLA<br />

1 PORTION<br />

Ingredients<br />

100 grams Fresh local tuna<br />

10 grams White boiled egg<br />

5 grams Chopped onion<br />

15 ml Lemon juice<br />

10 grams Chopped red bell pepper<br />

5 grams Miso paste<br />

10 ml Truffle oil<br />

10 ml Kikkoman soya<br />

5 grams Chipotle chilli powder<br />

5 grams Micro herbs<br />

30 grams Crispy tortilla<br />

5 grams Salmon roe<br />

Method of Preparation<br />

1 Dice tuna loin and keep aside<br />

2 Put diced tuna in a clean bowl, add all ingredients except<br />

micro herbs and tortilla<br />

3 Toss gently and smoothly till mixed well<br />

4 Place the tuna mixture in a ring and press gently<br />

5 Take out the ring and transfer to the serving plate<br />

6 Garnish with micro herb and salmon roe<br />

7 Serve with crispy tortilla<br />

40<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


MALDIVIAN CUISINE<br />

Sugar &<br />

Spice<br />

Mariyam Athiza Athif<br />

In a country where island gardens are bountiful with tropical<br />

fruit and where local markets entice buyers with sweet spices<br />

and cinnamon, it’s no surprise to find an array of tempting<br />

desserts in every kitchen. Here Mariyam Athiza Athif describes<br />

the Maldives’ sweetest treats.<br />

For Maldivians, meals don’t<br />

necessarily end with a dessert<br />

unless it’s a very special<br />

occasion; a satisfied hunger<br />

is rather indicated by the chewing of<br />

areca nuts and betel leaves. Desserts<br />

on the other hand are at many<br />

times devoured just for the sake of<br />

satisfying a sweet tooth.<br />

A large portion of Maldivian<br />

desserts are prepared for the<br />

customary afternoon tea as foni<br />

hedhikaa or sweet short eats. They<br />

are had together with the savoury<br />

ones, championed by a sweetened<br />

cup of black tea. Sweet eats are<br />

also prepared as nibbles that are<br />

to be had whenever and wherever,<br />

and sometimes containers of these<br />

tidbits are exchanged between<br />

households, reinforcing friendships<br />

and bonds. The preparation itself is<br />

also sometimes a relaxing communal<br />

activity. Groups of women would sit<br />

out in open areas, especially during<br />

the late afternoon, telling stories and<br />

jokes, while their hands lazily made<br />

the goodies they would later take<br />

home.<br />

Maldivian desserts are chock-full<br />

of regional influences enduring<br />

hints of the visitors who had arrived<br />

in the country and mingled with<br />

the local folks during the times of<br />

the past. Similar to the desserts of<br />

neighbouring India and Sri Lanka,<br />

most Maldivian desserts are laced<br />

with spices such as cardamom and<br />

cinnamon and aromatized by the use<br />

of rose and jasmine water similarly<br />

to the desserts of Middle Eastern<br />

cuisine.<br />

Although many Maldivian desserts<br />

are parallel to those of neighbouring<br />

countries, what makes them unique<br />

is the hefty use of local ingredients.<br />

Coconut is one that’s used<br />

abundantly and in many forms while<br />

local fruits and vegetables such as<br />

breadfruit, cassava, banana, taro and<br />

pumpkin make regular appearances.<br />

Maldivian desserts, though fragrant<br />

and spiced, are simply affairs mostly<br />

fried or baked, and below are just<br />

a handful of them in an attempt to<br />

convey the gist of the delectable list.<br />

www.cococollection.com 41


MALDIVIAN CUISINE<br />

Zileybi<br />

This is the Maldivian version<br />

of the popular sweet of South<br />

Asian, Middle Eastern, and<br />

African cuisine Jalebi. They are<br />

fried goodies made from wheat<br />

flour and are coated with a<br />

sugar syrup that’s infused with<br />

cinnamon, cardamom and rose<br />

water. What’s unique about the<br />

Zileybi of the Maldives is that it<br />

is always made bright red, dyed<br />

with food colouring.<br />

Hunihakuru<br />

Either fried or steamed, this<br />

is the super sweet Maldivian<br />

dumpling. The sugary filling is<br />

made with grated young coconuts<br />

or gabulhi, jasmine water,<br />

cinnamon and cardamom.<br />

Bambukeyo<br />

bondibai<br />

Maldivian cuisine has many<br />

versions of unique porridges<br />

called bondibai and bambukeyo<br />

bondibai made from breadfruit<br />

is a popular one. The<br />

breadfruits are diced and<br />

cooked in coconut milk with<br />

sugar, jasmine water, rampa<br />

leaves, and rose water.<br />

Ulhaali<br />

This is one of the prettiest<br />

of Maldivian desserts and<br />

its preparation is a bit more<br />

intricate when compared to<br />

the rest. A dough is made with<br />

flour, sugar, eggs and coconut<br />

milk and then it’s rolled and cut<br />

into thin strips. The strips are<br />

once again rolled between the<br />

hands to make them long and<br />

cylindrical, and then are twirled<br />

to make beautiful circular lattice<br />

type designs that are finished off<br />

by being deep fried.<br />

Addu bondi<br />

The famous Addu bondi of<br />

Addu Atoll is a scrumptious<br />

sweet wrapped in a banana<br />

leaf. It’s traditionally made by<br />

mixing the thick honey like<br />

syrup obtained from toddy<br />

called dhiyaa hakuru with grated<br />

gabulhi, and similar to most<br />

Maldivians desserts, it’s made<br />

fragrant by the use of jasmine<br />

water.<br />

Githeyo<br />

boakibaa<br />

Githeyo boakibaa is a rice<br />

cake and ghee is the special<br />

ingredient. The sugar rich cake<br />

is flavoured with cinnamon,<br />

cardamom, rampa leaves and<br />

jasmine water, and the sprinkling<br />

of roasted sea almonds<br />

or kanamadhu and fried onions<br />

on the top makes it an extra<br />

fragrant affair.<br />

42<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


EXPERIENCE<br />

Into the BLUE<br />

Noona Hussein<br />

With its calm, shallow lagoons,<br />

sloping reefs and incredible marine<br />

life, the Maldives is the ideal place<br />

to try scuba diving for the first time.<br />

Noona Hussein discovers what it<br />

feels like to breathe underwater.<br />

www.cococollection.com 43


“I turn, and there she is! A possibly four<br />

feet, white tip reef shark, swimming<br />

lazily towards us.”<br />

I<br />

am what some would call a quiet,<br />

pensive person. I am the type<br />

whose idea of living dangerously<br />

would mean wearing beige to a white<br />

party. So when my editor announced<br />

that she was looking for someone<br />

to experience scuba diving to write<br />

about it, I not only surprised my<br />

colleagues, but I surprised myself by<br />

volunteering so enthusiastically.<br />

I was to complete a PADI Discover<br />

Scuba Diving programme with the<br />

dive centre at Coco Bodu Hithi, Dive<br />

Ocean.<br />

A few days later I arrive at the<br />

dive centre. I fill out the basic forms,<br />

and watch a twenty minute video<br />

explaining the skills I would need to<br />

master that day. After watching the<br />

video, I meet Taka, the Japanese<br />

base leader at the dive school. Having<br />

started diving in 2007, Taka has<br />

been a PADI certified instructor for 6<br />

years. As this would be my first ever<br />

dive, I am even more excited that my<br />

instructor is a woman who, after much<br />

time talking with her, I would come to<br />

greatly admire, I must admit.<br />

We sit for a few minutes chatting<br />

about diving, and she explains the<br />

basics of what I would be expected<br />

to do, and teaches me a few basic<br />

hand signals. After a few minutes of<br />

chatting, I feel completely at ease with<br />

Taka.<br />

After a kind assistant helps me pick<br />

out a wetsuit, fins and mask, Taka and<br />

I walk to the south of the island near<br />

the water sports centre, where she<br />

assures me I will get to interact and<br />

see plenty of fish and beautiful corals.<br />

Noona Hussein<br />

44<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong><br />

Noona Hussein


EXPERIENCE<br />

Taka helps me with my tank, BCD,<br />

regulator and everything else before<br />

going in the water. By now, my heart<br />

rate begins increasing by the minute,<br />

but this doesn’t stop me, and I follow<br />

her in, slowly but surely.<br />

We sit in the shallow waters<br />

to practice the basic exercises.<br />

Signalling me to follow her moves,<br />

she sinks under the shallow waters<br />

with the mask and regulator in place. I<br />

follow, and my first breath underwater<br />

is like a wake-up call. It is all so easy!<br />

I had never imagined it to be so<br />

calming and soothing, but it is! I feel<br />

ecstatic.<br />

Afterwards, skills complete,<br />

and still in the shallow waters,<br />

Taka congratulates me and I smile<br />

excitedly. I am now more confident for<br />

the dive.<br />

Slipping down underwater,<br />

releasing air from my BCD, Taka<br />

and I swim slowly. The drop off is<br />

a few feet away and I can already<br />

see small colourful fish darting<br />

about. Since Bodu Hithi is extremely<br />

eco-conscious, I am not surprised<br />

to see some coral farming projects<br />

underway in their lagoon. Taka swims<br />

alongside of me, every so often<br />

checking to see if I am alright.<br />

I am curiously examining a soft<br />

coral and the gentle way it moves with<br />

the slow currents when I see Taka<br />

signalling me to look on my right side.<br />

I turn, and there she is! A possibly four<br />

feet, white tip reef shark, swimming<br />

lazily towards us. I can’t seem to<br />

move, my heart is beating excitedly,<br />

and the slinky gorgeous fish just<br />

swims past us - proud, and graceful.<br />

I look back over to Taka, feeling a little<br />

overwhelmed, signaling her that I was<br />

okay.<br />

Our dive is coming to an end,<br />

and Taka signals me that it is time to<br />

ascend. Coming up, and inflating our<br />

BCDs, I remove my mask and I just<br />

beam from ear to ear, unable to find<br />

the words to describe the incredible<br />

rush I had just experienced. I jokingly<br />

say: “Oh wow, why have I never done<br />

this before?!” And she laughs.<br />

Even now, days later, I still smile to<br />

myself, thinking about that memorable<br />

dive, that beautiful day when I<br />

stopped saying ‘I will’, and I just went<br />

ahead and did it. All thanks to the<br />

fantastic crew at Coco Bodu Hithi.<br />

www.cococollection.com 45


EXPERIENCE<br />

Skills<br />

During a DSD, participants are expected to learn three skills:<br />

CLEARING THE REGULATOR: remove the regulator from your mouth, while blowing<br />

little bubbles out. Replace it, and then firmly blow the water out of the regulator, by either<br />

placing tongue against the opening of the regulator and blowing out, or pressing the<br />

purge button on the regulator.<br />

RETRIEVING THE REGULATOR: Once again, remove the regulator from your mouth<br />

and let it dangle by your side. Keeping your right arm on right thigh, dip slowly to the<br />

right, stretching right arm out, where the regulator automatically comes within reach.<br />

Place it in your mouth, then proceed with clearing it, as mentioned above.<br />

MASK CLEARING: Lift the mask’s seal so as a little bit of water enters the mask. Hold<br />

both sides of the mask (your temples), look up, and slightly press the skin on the mask<br />

where it meets your forehead, whilst exhaling from your nose. The water will rush out.<br />

46<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


GADGETS<br />

Gear up!<br />

Mariyam Athiza Athif<br />

So you’ve got your mask, fins and snorkel and you’re ready to take the plunge. But<br />

before you hit the ocean, why not snap up a gadget or two to really make the most<br />

of your time in the water.<br />

Blue or More Hands Free View, tap and<br />

swipe<br />

Tusa Corrective Lenses<br />

Stop squinting and snorkel safer with<br />

corrected vision underwater. Tusa<br />

Corrective lenses can be inserted into<br />

M-212 Ceos, M-28 Geminus, TM-7500<br />

Splendive II and M-40 Splendive IV<br />

masks. Lenses are manufactured<br />

from tempered glass and come in<br />

a variety of diopters for maximum<br />

flexibility and improved vision.<br />

8MP Underwater Digital<br />

Camera Mask<br />

Liquid Image Explorer Series 8MP<br />

Underwater Digital Camera Mask has<br />

an integrated waterproof digital video<br />

camera and a built in 8.0 megapixel<br />

digital camera. The camera mask<br />

can operate up to a depth of 15<br />

feet making this ideal for snapping<br />

pictures and making videos while<br />

snorkelling. Lenses are made of<br />

tempered glass and have integrated<br />

crosshairs that help you to line up<br />

shots. You simply have to press the<br />

shutter button to record pictures or<br />

videos.<br />

GoPro Hero4 Silver<br />

Hero4 Silver is the first-ever GoPro to<br />

feature a built-in touch display. Just<br />

view, tap and swipe the screen to<br />

control the camera, play back footage<br />

and adjust settings. Hero4 Silver is<br />

waterproof to 40 metres and features<br />

1080p60 and 720p120 video, 12MP<br />

photos up to 30 frames per second,<br />

built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, and<br />

Protune for photos and videos.<br />

www.cococollection.com 47


GADGETS<br />

Breathe Like Normal<br />

Seamless functionality<br />

Tribord Easybreath<br />

Snorkelling Mask<br />

Easybreath is the first ever full face mask that<br />

allows you to breathe with your nose and mouth<br />

just like you would do on land. The innovative mask<br />

also allows snorkellers an unobstructed 180° field<br />

of vision, and is prevented from fogging up by a<br />

double air-flow system. To ensure that water does<br />

not enter via the snorkel, the Easybreath mask is<br />

equipped with a mechanism that plugs the top of<br />

the snorkel when immersed in water.<br />

Ikelite Underwater<br />

Housing<br />

Ikelite manufactures housings for a wide range of<br />

compact underwater and DSLR cameras. The housings<br />

are built by hand and individually tested for fit, function<br />

and waterproof integrity. Ikelite’s signature clear<br />

construction lets you see that the housing is watertight<br />

and dry before you enter the water, and provides a full<br />

view of the camera while you’re in the water.<br />

Move like a fish<br />

Underwater selfies<br />

Seabob<br />

Whether on the surface or at depth, with Seabob<br />

underwater scooters, now it’s actually possible<br />

to move through the water like a fish. The<br />

hydrodynamic shape makes it highly agile in the<br />

water. And to steer and to dive, all you have to do is<br />

shift your body weight. Seabob underwater scooters<br />

have various power level settings making it suitable<br />

for both relaxation and adventure.<br />

GoPole Evo<br />

This extension pole made for GoPro cameras is perfect<br />

for capturing selfies underwater as its transparent<br />

design makes it disappear in pictures. The 2-stage<br />

telescoping body extends from 14” to 24” and comes<br />

with a secure wrist strap attachment. It also has a Wi-Fi<br />

remote clip allowing you effortless control of the camera.<br />

GoPole Evo is also a floatation device making it easier<br />

for you to find your camera in case you lose your grip.<br />

48<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


TRADITION<br />

Lady<br />

inRed<br />

Often bright red and with a<br />

distinctive embroidered yoke, the<br />

national Dhivehi libaas dress is<br />

a work of art in itself. Aminath<br />

Ishrath explores the history of<br />

this traditional garment.


“The women’s costume is exceedingly becoming. Round the waist, and reaching<br />

down to the ankles, is worn a cloth (mostly of native manufacture), coarse in<br />

texture, of a dark chocolate colour, with a border of parallel black and white<br />

stripes. Over this they wear a kind of loose shirt, or gown, of silk, with short sleeves,<br />

reaching nearly to the knees, which is not made to fit to the neck and shoulders, but<br />

is gathered in round them; the openings for the neck and arms are ornamented with<br />

embroidery in gold, silver, and silk thread.”<br />

This excerpt is from German doctor and explorer, Carl Wilhelm Rosset’s account of his visit to Male’ in 1885. Here,<br />

Rosset indicated one of the earliest known versions of traditional attire worn by Maldivian women, the Dhivehi libaas.<br />

Renowned for many intricate crafts, Maldivian women have been known to be exceptionally skilled at a special type<br />

of embroidery known as kasabu boavalhu, an elaborate piece of work adorning the neckline of the Dhivehi libaas, a<br />

long robe-like dress of cotton or taffeta. François Pyrard’s travel memoirs of his time in the Maldives indicate that various<br />

versions of this dress have been in use since the 1600s. While the libaas can still be seen worn by older generations in<br />

some parts of the Maldives, the art of the embroidery process itself is a fading one.<br />

A Maldivian family photographed in 1883 in traditional dress<br />

A woman wears the traditional fattaru necklace<br />

The tools<br />

The gathaa fai is the base<br />

instrument, shaped out of wood like<br />

a short flower vase concaved in the<br />

middle and hollowed out to store the<br />

rest of the tools. Measuring around<br />

7.5 inches in height and decorated<br />

with lacquer work and carved designs,<br />

this base can be regarded as the<br />

embroidery loom. Gathaa faige boa<br />

is a round cushion made out of cloth,<br />

resting on top of the hollowed base,<br />

and is used to pin on the threads.<br />

The foalibai measure about<br />

5 inches in length and hold the<br />

cotton, silk and metallic threads<br />

while weaving. Since heavy foalibai<br />

are preferred to make the weaving<br />

process easier, they are usually<br />

carved out of fish teeth or sturdy wood<br />

that is lacquered. Up to 34 of these<br />

pieces can be used at one time to<br />

weave different styles of ribbons.<br />

The final tool is the baalees, a<br />

pillow shaped tool measuring 2 inches<br />

in length and also made out of fish<br />

teeth or wood. It is slightly concaved<br />

in the middle to wind the thread onto<br />

it, and can be seen functioning as a<br />

bobbin in this work.<br />

50<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


TRADITION<br />

A woman weaves using a gathaa faige boa<br />

Women often sat together as they worked<br />

Although often red, the Dhivehi libaas can be found<br />

in a variety of colours<br />

The ribbons<br />

The ribbons that are woven using<br />

the tools are categorized into three<br />

categories known as hiru, bagiyaa<br />

and rodhigandu. Hiru has four distinct<br />

silver and gold weavings measuring<br />

a certain width and bagiyaa is further<br />

categorized into two different styles<br />

using silver, gold and colored threads.<br />

Rodhigandu is the most intricate of<br />

the weavings, incorporating silk of<br />

lively colours such as reds, blues and<br />

greens into the classic silver threads.<br />

The use of very fine vibrant threads<br />

ensures a perfect finish to each<br />

weaved ribbon line.<br />

Once the ribbons have been<br />

weaved, there is a specific order in<br />

which they are hand stitched onto<br />

the neckline. A classic embroidered<br />

neckline must be at least four inches<br />

in width and the first line to be stitched<br />

closest to the neck is always a hiru,<br />

followed by a bagiyaa and repeated<br />

until it reaches the middle of the<br />

neckline. The middle is adorned<br />

with the colourful rodhigandu, after<br />

which the previous hiru and bagiyaa<br />

ribbons are repeated. At the end, two<br />

thin bagiyaa ribbons complete the<br />

striking embroidered neckline, kasabu<br />

boavalhu.


“The attire is still worn by women mainly during<br />

special functions and ceremonies. However, younger<br />

generations are drawing inspiration from the past<br />

and recreating versions of the kasabu libaas for<br />

ceremonies, runways and photo shoots.”


TRADITION


TRADITION<br />

The evolution<br />

The libaas with the kasabu<br />

boavalhu was worn by Maldivian<br />

women from the 1800s, and even<br />

from the 1600s, a version of this dress<br />

is said to have been worn. Different<br />

atolls had their signature touches to<br />

the embroidery process and the dress<br />

itself. While the ladies of Huvadhoo<br />

Atoll in the South used to incorporate<br />

more coloured threads into the<br />

weaving, those in Addu Atoll stuck<br />

more to the classic silver and gold.<br />

The early 1900s are said to be<br />

the golden era of the Dhivehi libaas.<br />

Along with the embroidered neckline<br />

on vibrant coloured dresses, the look<br />

is completed with a wide hand woven<br />

Still evolving<br />

ribbon lining the hemline of the sleeve<br />

(kinaaree), a heavy gold necklace<br />

resembling a chain of coins (fattaru<br />

bai), silver and gold bangles crafted<br />

by blacksmiths (ulhaa bai), a finely<br />

woven sarong (feyli) and a specially<br />

adorned kerchief worn on the hair<br />

(rumaa falhi).<br />

The Maldives endured great<br />

hardship in WW2 and trade<br />

opportunities with neighbouring<br />

Ceylon and Bombay were reduced.<br />

Along with basic necessities,<br />

Maldivians faced a severe shortage<br />

of goods such as silks and threads.<br />

With this shortage, the gilded kasabu<br />

boavalhu evolved into the fothi<br />

boavalhu, a piece of patterned cotton<br />

cloth placed around the neckline like<br />

a mini cape.<br />

After the end of the war, certain<br />

parts of the Maldives still faced<br />

extreme famine. However, the<br />

southern atolls with fertile soils<br />

were able to depend on fruits and<br />

vegetables such as yams, sweet<br />

potatoes and breadfruit. It is here in<br />

the South that the embroidery work<br />

was revived once more and even to<br />

this day, older generations can be<br />

seen wearing the kasabu or fothi<br />

boavalhu libaas.<br />

The attire is still worn by women<br />

mainly during special functions<br />

and ceremonies. However, younger<br />

generations are drawing inspiration<br />

from the past and recreating versions<br />

of the kasabu libaas for ceremonies,<br />

runways and photo shoots.<br />

Saadha Ali is a Maldivian<br />

seamstress and fashion designer with<br />

a bachelor’s degree in fashion design<br />

from the UK, whose mother is quite<br />

skilled at this authentic embroidery<br />

process. Even today, Saadha’s<br />

mother, who learnt the art from her<br />

father, continues to create the kasabu<br />

Dhivehi libaas for many clients.<br />

Meanwhile, Saadha is choosing<br />

to venture into the contemporary<br />

side as she creates versions of the<br />

modern day Dhivehi libaas. Her<br />

work pays respect to the authentic<br />

embroidery style as she re-creates<br />

the iru, bagiyaa and rodhigandu with<br />

ready-made materials, ribbons and<br />

lace stitched onto a more form-fitting<br />

version of the dress.<br />

Skilled at weaving particular types<br />

of the ribbon on an authentic gathaa<br />

fai, Saadha has been exposed to the<br />

art since she was a young girl. It is<br />

evident that these crafts are passed<br />

down from older generations to those<br />

who have a keen eye for the intricate<br />

work and a passion to keep the<br />

traditions alive.<br />

54<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


REVIEW<br />

A<br />

HERO<br />

IN TIME<br />

A BOOK REVIEW<br />

By Ibrahim Eelaf Naseer<br />

Royston Ellis’ swashbuckling account of the<br />

liberation of the Maldives from the hands of<br />

Portuguese colonisers takes readers back to a time<br />

of heroes and villains.<br />

The legend of Mohamed<br />

Thakurufaan is one that no<br />

Maldivian is unacquainted<br />

with. In fact, his bravery in restoring<br />

Maldivian sovereignty after a fifteenyear<br />

long Portuguese occupation in<br />

the 16th century is commemorated<br />

every year on National Day. However,<br />

save for a few historical documents<br />

and two local books written many<br />

decades ago, few accounts existed<br />

detailing the stirring saga of his life<br />

and ordeals. Most of what is known to<br />

Maldivians - and to the rare inquisitive<br />

traveller - has been passed down<br />

by word of mouth over generations.<br />

And with every re-telling, the story<br />

has passed through the bottleneck of<br />

quaint imagination, emerging in the<br />

form of hyperbolic heroism that instills<br />

fondness in the hearts of Maldivians<br />

www.cococollection.com 55


Utheem Gan’duvaru is the house where the Thakurufaan brothers lived, and can still be visited today<br />

to this day. Although these variations<br />

are likely to have blurred the lines<br />

between historic fact and fiction,<br />

the spirit of this tale is one that has<br />

stood the test of time. After all, what<br />

historical tale isn’t a tad embellished<br />

and apocryphal?<br />

Nevertheless, former Maldivian<br />

President Maumoon Abdul Gayoom<br />

wanted to capture the essence of<br />

Mohamed Thakurufaan’s endeavours<br />

in the form of historical fiction. He<br />

approached English novelist, travel<br />

writer and beats poet, Royston Ellis<br />

to execute this idea. And in the year<br />

2000, A Hero in Time was published in<br />

Singapore in the form of a 256-page<br />

novel, immortalising the tumultuous<br />

history of the Portuguese occupation,<br />

and the conviction, courage and<br />

determination of a small group of<br />

patriots that ousted these occupiers.<br />

The book is divided into three<br />

main sections, with parts one and<br />

two based in northern Maldives in the<br />

island of Utheem, where Mohamed<br />

Thakurufaan and his compatriots<br />

resided, and part three shifting<br />

between the islands of Minicoy and<br />

“Ellis is invested<br />

in painting a vivid<br />

picture of 16th<br />

century island life,<br />

stimulating nostalgia<br />

in the reader for a<br />

much simpler time.”<br />

the capital, Male’. From the get go,<br />

it is clear that Ellis is invested in<br />

painting a vivid picture of 16th century<br />

island life, stimulating nostalgia in the<br />

reader for a much simpler time. His<br />

integration of Maldivian lingo proves<br />

useful in portraying Maldivian culture<br />

and traditions. For the uninitiated,<br />

a helpful glossary of the words is<br />

provided at the back. Overall though,<br />

the narrative is simple, and easy to<br />

read. The lack of adornment lends<br />

the novel the directness of a folktale,<br />

enabling the characters’ dialogues to<br />

take centre stage instead. This makes<br />

A Hero in Time a compelling and<br />

powerful read.<br />

The novel begins with a prologue<br />

whereby Ellis illuminates the many<br />

adversities experienced by the locals<br />

during the Portuguese occupation.<br />

It was undoubtedly a time of many<br />

injustices, run by the Portuguese<br />

leader Andre Andrade, or Andhiri<br />

Andhirin (depths of the darkness)<br />

as he was referred to by the locals.<br />

“It was death for any citizen of<br />

the Dhivehi Realm who showed<br />

resistance to the Portuguese way<br />

56<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


REVIEW<br />

Details of carvings in the Kan’dhuvalhu Miskiiy, the ancient mosque in Utheem<br />

of life,” the prologue reads. As the<br />

narrative develops and the reader<br />

learns of the protagonists’ suffering<br />

and the hopelessness of the Maldivian<br />

people, Ellis elicits sympathy for a<br />

population in the pits of despair.<br />

Although the book begins<br />

slightly sluggishly, it does gain<br />

momentum towards the end with an<br />

adrenaline-inducing battle between<br />

the protagonists led by Mohamed<br />

Thakurufaan, and the Portuguese.<br />

As I was reading, I could not help<br />

but imagine a visually stimulating<br />

theatrical adaptation of this tale.<br />

Ellis has definitely established a<br />

memorable assortment of characters,<br />

which he has intentionally portrayed<br />

as either paragons of virtue or<br />

black-hearted villains. This, I believe,<br />

maintains the romanticised spirit of<br />

the tale, to that which almost every<br />

Maldivian has grown to love.<br />

To this day, there are not many<br />

books of this sort, which decidedly<br />

positions A Hero in Time as the<br />

cornerstone of English novels written<br />

about the country. Royston Ellis has<br />

maintained that he attempted to keep<br />

the narrative as historically accurate<br />

as possible, whilst simultaneously<br />

drawing on his own ingenious<br />

imagination to bring the tale to life. I<br />

urge any traveller interested in delving<br />

into the nation’s history to pick up<br />

this book. It is available to purchase<br />

on Amazon, as well as from major<br />

bookstores across Male’ City, such as<br />

Asrafee and Novelty.<br />

www.cococollection.com 57


The Voyage of<br />

Kalhofummi<br />

WORDS: AHMED MAUROOF JAMEEL ILLUSTRATIONS: EAGAN BADEEU<br />

58<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


FOLKLORE & LEGEND<br />

www.cococollection.com 59


In 1558 the Portuguese conquered the Maldives and set up a<br />

trading post under the leadership of Andhiri Andhirin. His cruelty<br />

and greed would undo the occupiers. When the Thakurufaanu<br />

brothers Ali, Mohamed, Hassan, and their ward Dhandehaylu built<br />

a boat unlike any other, Andhiri Andhirin sent men to slay the<br />

brothers and steal the boat.<br />

This sparked rebellion. Kalhofummi, the very boat Andhiri<br />

Andhirin coveted, would be used to attack the occupiers in the<br />

dead of night, disappearing with its crew before sunrise. The<br />

Kalhofummi’s successes birthed many legends. This is but a telling<br />

of one...<br />

60<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


FOLKLORE & LEGEND<br />

Their luck had run out. The brothers had finally been<br />

spotted and forced to flee. Kalhofummi was steady and<br />

silent as it sliced through the sea. But enemy boats were in<br />

pursuit and Ali clutched a nasty gunshot wound.<br />

Hassan handed Dhandeheylu the tiller to sit by Ali’s<br />

side.<br />

‘Little Hassan, always grim,’ said Ali.<br />

‘Tell that to him,’ said Hassan, nodding at Dhandeheylu.<br />

Ali managed a smile, thinking of their first meeting,<br />

Dhandeheylu a dirty little thing roaming the street.<br />

‘You have parents, boy?’ Ali had asked.<br />

‘Wouldn’t be here if I didn’t,’ Dhandeheylu had replied.<br />

‘They still alive?’<br />

‘Wouldn’t be here if they were.’<br />

‘Got the guts to earn proper food, boy?’<br />

‘Anything for food and a roof.’<br />

‘Well, we don’t take in scoundrels,’ said Ali. ‘Clean him<br />

up.’<br />

The boy had howled as Hassan and Mohamed<br />

scrubbed him clean. But they had fed him and given him<br />

a place to sleep, though it was under a roof of stars on<br />

board their first ship. Dhandeheylu surprised them with his<br />

tirelessness, sharp eye for good timber, and a tendency to<br />

wield Kalhofummi’s mast as a weapon.<br />

But he had never been this quiet. He kept glancing at<br />

Ali’s wound.<br />

‘Can’t we go faster?’ asked Hassan, seeing the lights of<br />

ships behind them grow brighter.<br />

‘Is Kalhofummi holding up?’ asked Ali.<br />

‘Did you taste salt? Are we underwater? Then, yes,’ said<br />

Dhandeheylu.<br />

Mohamed chuckled.<br />

‘Well, she still needs another coat of shark oil,’ muttered<br />

Ali.<br />

Mohamed rapped Kalhofummi’s smooth wood. It was a<br />

solid sound.<br />

‘It should be you who does that, big brother,’ he said,<br />

‘the one among us who actually pays attention to details.’<br />

The boat lurched as it struck something.<br />

‘Oafs,’ muttered Ali. ‘We’re heading straight towards that<br />

island.’<br />

It was true. There was a scruffy little islet directly ahead,<br />

the lagoon around it deadly. Dark heads of coral hung<br />

beneath the surface, spelling death to any boat hull.<br />

The pursuers were so close the Kalhofummi crew could<br />

hear their voices.<br />

‘They know we’re trapped,’ said Hassan.<br />

‘Give me the tiller,’ said Ali. ‘I’ll lead them away. You<br />

escape.’<br />

Nobody spoke. Kalhofummi continued to hurtle towards<br />

the island with neither creak nor groan.<br />

It was Mohamed who took the tiller.<br />

‘What are you doing?’ asked Ali.<br />

‘I’ll worry about that,’ said Mohamed. ‘You plan our next<br />

move. Shall we spirit our families away to Maliku until we<br />

free Maldives?’<br />

‘You’re steering us aground!’<br />

Kalhofummi stayed on its course.<br />

“The pursuers fell out of sight as<br />

Kalhofummi skipped over the<br />

waves, sliced through the water,<br />

sliced through the shore, and with<br />

a terrible crack, clove through the<br />

land itself.”<br />

‘Mohamed! I thought you’d be the responsible one<br />

when I’m gone.’<br />

‘You’re still here, Ali,’ said Mohamed. ‘Just remember<br />

a nameless boat out on its first journey. Remember one<br />

kalhu-oh, that magnificent fish leaping over the waves as it<br />

flew towards us. Remember Kalhofummi’s namesake.’<br />

The pursuers fell out of sight as Kalhofummi skipped<br />

over the waves, sliced through the water, sliced through<br />

the shore, and with a terrible crack, clove through the land<br />

itself.<br />

Even as the broken island fell behind him, Ali couldn’t<br />

believe what had happened. He had felt trees whipping at<br />

his face as they cut through the jungle, the splash as they<br />

returned to water. Kalhofummi had cut through the island.<br />

‘That’s one way of doing it,’ said Dhandeheylu.<br />

Mohamed nodded at Ali’s wound, as if nothing<br />

remarkable had happened.<br />

‘I know a good medicine man.’<br />

Kalhofummi, mostly unharmed, maintained its silent,<br />

confident course. For the first time since they had started<br />

their rebellion, the crew could believe anything was<br />

possible.<br />

www.cococollection.com 61


SET IN<br />

STONE<br />

A mosque from the ocean<br />

Fathimath Lamya Abdulla


ARTS & CULTURE<br />

In the heart of Male’ there lies a coral<br />

stone mosque. Built for a sultan and<br />

adorned with intricate carving and<br />

fine lacquer calligraphy, this 17th<br />

century heritage site is a place of<br />

worship, beauty and history.


Wood and stone carving, laquer work and calligraphy inside the Hukuru Miskiiy<br />

One of the monumental stops<br />

on any tour of the capital of<br />

the Maldives is the Hukuru<br />

Miskiiy, the Friday Mosque. Not<br />

that far from the Muleeaage – the<br />

Presidential Residence – is the ancient<br />

Friday Mosque, built in the year 1656.<br />

Eight years after Sultan Ibrahim<br />

Iskandhar I, also known as Siri Kula<br />

Kameeba Kattiri Bovana Maha Radun,<br />

ascended to the throne he ordered<br />

the construction of a new Friday<br />

Mosque, as the one that existed<br />

then was not sufficient enough to<br />

accommodate all those that called<br />

upon there to offer their prayers.<br />

The demolished mosque was the<br />

very first Friday Mosque in the nation,<br />

established by the very first Muslim<br />

Sultan of Maldives, Mohamed Bin<br />

Abdulla, after he converted to Islam in<br />

1153 A.D.<br />

The new Friday Mosque took about<br />

a year and half to complete, even<br />

with the most talented carpenters<br />

and masons of the country working<br />

on the project. Both the old and the<br />

new Friday Mosque had thatched<br />

roofs when they were initially built.<br />

However, the new mosque underwent<br />

renovations on two counts in which<br />

“The corals collected<br />

from various places<br />

in the Maldives were<br />

hewn together so<br />

tightly that even a<br />

needle couldn’t pass<br />

through it.”<br />

this aspect was altered. First, in the<br />

year 1912 A.D, Sultan Mohamed<br />

Shamsuddin Iskandhar III replaced<br />

the thatched roof with corrugated<br />

iron sheets. Later on in 1964, the<br />

corrugated iron sheets were replaced<br />

by aluminum sheets and the roof<br />

structure was reconstructed with teak.<br />

The stone and wood carvings were<br />

done by local masons and carpenters,<br />

a feat so marvelously impressive in<br />

terms of its architectural ingenuity that<br />

Dutch Captain, Fredrick de Houtman<br />

complimented it on various counts.<br />

What surprised him most was the<br />

Maldivian way of building houses, the<br />

way corals were put together without<br />

mortar, or lime or any other building<br />

material. The corals collected from<br />

various places in the Maldives were<br />

hewn together so tightly that even a<br />

needle couldn’t pass through it.<br />

One of the most distinctive features<br />

of the Hukuru Miskiiy is the intricate<br />

carvings on the coral stones, and the<br />

various types of wood used for the<br />

pillars, doors and window frames.<br />

Furthermore, the mosque had great<br />

64<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


ARTS & CULTURE<br />

coral stones that had been skillfully<br />

carved and engraved. The inscriptions<br />

and the carved designs that<br />

decorated the interior of the mosque<br />

were in Arabic and Dhivehi, written<br />

in the old Maldivian Script<br />

Dhives Akuru.<br />

The Arabic inscriptions<br />

are mainly quotations from<br />

the Holy Quran and Sayings<br />

of Prophet Mohamed (Peace<br />

Be Upon Him). Historical<br />

facts about the mosque were<br />

also inscribed in Arabic. The<br />

Dhivehi inscriptions in Dhives<br />

Akuru mostly described the<br />

duties of the imams, and<br />

other members holding<br />

various offices in the mosque<br />

such as dhoshun and malims.<br />

The coral stones inside<br />

and outside the Hukuru Miskiiy<br />

have been beautifully carved with<br />

abstract geometrical designs,<br />

that archeological experts say are<br />

influenced from 11th century Islamic<br />

art. The most commonly used colours<br />

for the lacquer works are red, blue,<br />

green, and gold.<br />

After Sultan Ibrahim Iskandhar<br />

I returned from his pilgrimage to<br />

Mecca in 1668 A.D, he ordered the<br />

construction of a minaret and a<br />

southern gateway to the mosque. The<br />

minaret was completed in 1675, and<br />

resembled the minarets of Mecca of<br />

that time.<br />

The southern gateway<br />

was constructed with four<br />

roofs covering an area of<br />

approximately 360 square<br />

feet, with two dhaalaas on<br />

either side. It is regarded<br />

as the first “institute” or<br />

“classroom” established<br />

in the Maldives to carry<br />

out formal education as<br />

the Sultan ordered the<br />

Holy Quran be taught<br />

to children there. Over<br />

time however, major<br />

changes were made to<br />

the compound with it<br />

eventually being demolished in 1964<br />

A.D.<br />

www.cococollection.com 65


ARTS & CULTURE<br />

The ceiling of the Hukuru Miskiiy<br />

As the times of the five daily<br />

prayers in Islam are calculated<br />

according to the distance of the<br />

shadow of a vertical object, a sundial<br />

was built for this very reason. It was<br />

located on the road in front of the<br />

mosque, which eventually got worn<br />

out over time. Another one was<br />

built in the year 1917 A.D. by Sultan<br />

Mohamed Shamsuddin Iskandhar III.<br />

This clock has survived till today.<br />

A short distance from the main<br />

entrance to the mosque, on the<br />

southern side is the ziyaarai, or the<br />

monumental tomb of Sultan Ibrahim<br />

Iskandhar I. He was well known for<br />

his educational reforms and military<br />

expertise, and is remembered as one<br />

of the greatest kings of the Maldives.<br />

Beside his tomb, there are many<br />

other tombs within the compound<br />

of the mosque belonging to various<br />

princes, ministers and sultans who<br />

had served the country in the past. In<br />

fact, the beautiful carvings on these<br />

tombstones are legible even today.<br />

This highly historical and ancient<br />

mosque in the island nation<br />

of Maldives has made the list of<br />

UNESCO’s World Heritage site, and<br />

is considered to be one of the oldest<br />

buildings in Male’.<br />

66<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


WELLNESS<br />

A Journey to<br />

Maldives<br />

Adele Verdier-Ali is joined by her husband at the Coco Spa<br />

to experience the benefits of the Coco Collection signature<br />

couple’s ritual.<br />

There’s something so exquisitely<br />

indulgent about treating yourself to<br />

a massage. Slipping off to a spa in<br />

the middle of the day, switching off<br />

your phone and putting the world<br />

on hold: nothing better captures the<br />

spirit of being on holiday. Reminding<br />

yourself of what you would be doing<br />

if you were at work right now, and<br />

inwardly laughing at how far away the<br />

office feels as you pad towards your<br />

treatment room in newly acquired<br />

cotton slippers – I know of no better<br />

form of me-time. Stresses, deadlines,<br />

to-do lists – I leave them all at the<br />

door. Today however, as I walk along<br />

the curved jetty that leads to the<br />

spectacular over-water Coco Spa at<br />

Coco Bodu Hithi in the mid-afternoon<br />

sun, there’s one thing that I haven’t<br />

left behind.<br />

My husband. Normally, right<br />

about now I’d be waving him off<br />

for his last scuba dive of the day<br />

before disappearing for a few hours’<br />

pampering, but this time we decide<br />

to try something different. His lower


“Two large conch shells are placed against my ears<br />

and I am unexpectedly transported to memories of<br />

childhood, and the endless afternoons I spent listening<br />

to my grandmother’s shell collection, hearing the call<br />

of the sea.”


WELLNESS<br />

www.cococollection.com 69


ack has been grumbling recently<br />

and over the past few months work<br />

commitments have kept us both<br />

preoccupied. Like so many couples,<br />

whenever we are together, we seem<br />

to be tired. So as we browsed<br />

through the spa menu in anticipation<br />

of our latest visit, and I prepared to<br />

pre-book a few treatments, it didn’t<br />

take much convincing to decide<br />

upon A Journey to Maldives, the<br />

spa’s signature couple’s treatment.<br />

A two-hour experience, the ritual is<br />

designed around the use of local,<br />

natural products, the most unique<br />

usage being that of indigenous<br />

cowrie shells during the massage.<br />

Soothing, romantic and invigorating –<br />

it promised to solve all our woes.<br />

And in fact, on the day of the<br />

treatment, the ritual’s effects begin to<br />

work before we even arrive at the spa.<br />

As we stroll along the island’s sandy<br />

pathway, a blanket of thick tropical<br />

vegetation providing protection from<br />

a fireball sun, we are truly together,<br />

without phones or distractions. We<br />

discuss the elements we are most<br />

looking forward to, wonder what a<br />

massage with shells might feel like,<br />

tease one another about falling asleep<br />

and snoring. We feel excited, and<br />

finally, we don’t feel tired.<br />

We are welcomed by Pop, a<br />

cheerful Thai receptionist, who leads<br />

us to a day bed, overlooking the<br />

lagoon, where she offers us an iced<br />

ginger tea. We curl like two cats and<br />

enjoy its spicy-sweet flavour and<br />

the view of the reef break. Soon, our<br />

therapists come to collect us. Kai,<br />

from Thailand and Tini from Bali make<br />

us feel instantly at ease. They lead us<br />

to a treatment room, with two beds,<br />

a large, sunken bath and a view of<br />

the ocean that stretches for miles.<br />

After footbaths of spices and salt, we<br />

settle onto our massage tables. Two<br />

large conch shells are placed against<br />

my ears and I am unexpectedly<br />

transported to memories of childhood,<br />

and the endless afternoons I spent<br />

listening to my grandmother’s shell<br />

collection, hearing the call of the<br />

sea. This gentle beginning signals<br />

that this Journey to Maldives would<br />

not simply be a token offering of<br />

disjointed Maldivian ingredients, but<br />

a real connection with the ocean and<br />

its surrounding coastline. I sink into<br />

relaxation as if into its still waters.<br />

The full body massage itself is a<br />

combination of Balinese techniques<br />

70<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


WELLNESS<br />

- at first dry and then with virgin<br />

coconut oil - and smooth kneading<br />

with the glossy, domed shells. I must<br />

admit that I had been sceptical about<br />

the use of shells, but they were much<br />

more than just a gimmick. Slightly<br />

cold, they provide a pleasant contrast<br />

to the warmth of the oil. What’s more,<br />

Tini applies them with consistent<br />

pressure and firm, brisk movements,<br />

and I am surprised at the force they<br />

can withstand.<br />

As this section of the treatments<br />

ends, and we lie still for a moment,<br />

I lift a corner of my eye mask and<br />

open one eye. I see my better half<br />

completely still. “Are you enjoying it?” I<br />

ask. A far off ‘mmm’ is all I receive as<br />

a response, and it’s enough to assure<br />

me that he is.<br />

Next as I receive a coconut and<br />

vanilla scrub, he is cocooned in a<br />

spiced Boreh wrap. The mix, which<br />

warms on the body, relieves body<br />

aches and muscle pain. Whilst we<br />

allow the effects of these treatments<br />

to unfold, we are treated to face and<br />

scalp massages. When the scrub has<br />

dried on my skin, Tini brushes the<br />

mixture off vigorously, leaving my skin<br />

so smooth that I could still feel the<br />

difference days later.<br />

We are led to the shower to rinse<br />

off and my husband’s spice mix<br />

makes him smell of the comforting<br />

masala chai that they sell in the<br />

local markets here. When we step<br />

out, the large bath has been filled<br />

with lemon, galangal, betel leaves,<br />

spices and fuchsia hibiscus petals,<br />

plucked from the island’s shrubbery.<br />

Fresh coconuts await us, harvested<br />

from a nearby tree. We slide into the<br />

steaming water and we are left to<br />

enjoy the ocean view.<br />

Salt, coconut, shells, flowers and<br />

spice. These are the rudiments of the<br />

Maldivian way of life. Together in A<br />

Journey to Maldives they combine to<br />

provide a doorway to harmony, and<br />

to connection – both with the country<br />

and with one another.<br />

“Can we do this more often?” my<br />

husband asks as we watch the dusk<br />

paint the clouds parchment gold.<br />

I get the feeling that my ‘me time’<br />

has been replaced by ‘us time’. And<br />

that’s perfectly fine by me.<br />

www.cococollection.com 71


That Shell<br />

do Nicely<br />

WORDS: NASHIU ZAHIR ILLUSTRATIONS: EAGAN BADEEU<br />

Shells hold a place at the heart of the Maldives. Much<br />

more than just ornamental, for centuries these ocean<br />

beauties have been central to trade, community and<br />

even magic.<br />

A couple of notes on seashells –<br />

they are the exoskeletons (shells if<br />

you will) of living creatures. The ones<br />

you pick on the beach were once<br />

alive, housing the delicate invertebrate<br />

life-forms within. Most of the shells<br />

that you will come across on the shore<br />

are actually those of marine molluscs.<br />

They either rotted away or fell prey to<br />

predators that feasted on their flesh.<br />

For centuries, shells have figured<br />

prominently in the local culture of<br />

the Maldives. The Maldivian cowrie<br />

shell (Cypraea moneta) was used as<br />

currency in South Asia, China, South<br />

East Asia and large parts of Africa.<br />

Trading ships from across the region<br />

would come to the Maldives to stock<br />

up on these shells – with some even<br />

referring to the country as the Cowrie<br />

“For centuries,<br />

shells have figured<br />

prominently in the<br />

local culture of the<br />

Maldives.”<br />

Islands. The use of this particular<br />

species of cowrie has a lengthy<br />

history, with shells dating as far back<br />

as 2000BC being found in China and<br />

the Middle East. How apt, then, that<br />

this small shell appears on the rufiyaa,<br />

the local currency.<br />

Another shell that made it big in the<br />

country is the triton, which was used<br />

to summon island folk to important<br />

gatherings. Also noteworthy is the<br />

rare left handed conch, a shell that<br />

is believed to have mystical powers<br />

and used in performing fanditha,<br />

(local magic). That these shells<br />

fetch enormous prices even today is<br />

perhaps an indicator of the extent of<br />

superstitious belief in the Maldives.<br />

72<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


FLORA & FAUNA<br />

The following are just a small selection of the many<br />

species of seashell found in Maldivian waters, and<br />

along its shores:<br />

Triton<br />

Triton shells are actually marine snails. These warm water<br />

predators are beautiful to behold, with spired, decorated shells.<br />

They are found in tropical waters and can grow up to two feet.<br />

Maldivians have used tritons as ‘trumpets’, much like island<br />

folk in other lands such as Indonesia.<br />

Pearly Nautilus<br />

These are ancient creatures that date back 500<br />

million years and distant cousins to squids, cuttlefish<br />

and octopi. Like them, nautiluses use jet propulsion<br />

to navigate through the water. They rarely exceed 20<br />

centimetres, and are only found in the Indo-Pacific,<br />

where they inhabit the deep slopes of coral reefs. Their<br />

smooth spiral shells were greatly prized by ancient<br />

Greeks, who saw them as a symbol of perfection, and<br />

they continue to fascinate today.<br />

Money Cowrie<br />

These are small, irregular-shaped shells found in abundance<br />

in tropical waters. They may be seen on or beneath rocks<br />

in shallow water and on exposed reefs at low tide. Their<br />

diet consists of algae, marine vegetation and dead corals.<br />

This species of cowrie is so named as it used to function as<br />

currency, and as such, its use dates back to 2000BC.<br />

Eyed Cowrie<br />

This is a striking species of cowrie, having shiny<br />

shells that characterise the species, plus intricate ‘eye’<br />

designs on top, from which this species gets its name.<br />

They are distributed across the Indian Ocean. They<br />

can be found in shallow water beneath dead coral or in<br />

deep water in caves and under ledges. They can grow<br />

up to 8 centimetres, and feed on algae, sponges, tiny<br />

fish and molluscs.<br />

www.cococollection.com 73


FLORA & FAUNA<br />

Spider Conch<br />

Spider conches are large<br />

sea-dwelling snails with a striking<br />

appearance, marked by a flared outer<br />

lip and spiky protrusions. They can<br />

grow up to 29 centimetres and are<br />

found in abundance in the Indo-West<br />

Pacific. Spider conches prefer<br />

mangrove areas, reef flats and can<br />

also be found among coral rubble in<br />

shallow waters. They are herbivorous<br />

creatures and feed on red algae.<br />

Tiger Cowrie<br />

This is a shiny, egg shaped shell,<br />

with a brown and white mottled<br />

colouration. Found among coral<br />

reefs in the Indo-Pacific region, it can<br />

grow up to 15 centimetres. Although<br />

juvenile shells eat algae, adults are<br />

carnivorous and feed on soft corals<br />

and invertebrates.<br />

Textile Cone<br />

Textile cones belong to the<br />

Conidae group of molluscs; they are<br />

highly decorated sea snails. They can<br />

be found in the waters of the Red Sea,<br />

Indo-Pacific, Australia, New Zealand,<br />

French Polynesia and the Indian<br />

Ocean from Eastern Africa to Hawaii.<br />

Be cautious with them, their venom<br />

can be lethal to humans. They feed by<br />

injecting their prey with a conotoxin,<br />

by way of a microscopic needle-like<br />

appendage.<br />

Noble Harp<br />

These are predatory sea snails<br />

belonging to the family Harpidae.<br />

Their transversal shell ribs resemble a<br />

harp’s strings, hence the name. They<br />

have an attractive colouration, white<br />

with cream and brown banding. The<br />

noble harps are distributed across the<br />

Indo-Pacific, and prefer shallow and<br />

deep sands. They can grow up to 7<br />

centimetres.<br />

Orange<br />

Spotted Mitra<br />

These are a remarkably colourful<br />

species of predatory marine molluscs.<br />

They are common in the tropical<br />

Indo-Pacific waters, where they live<br />

in intertidal zones, in sand and coral<br />

areas or on the stony seabed. They<br />

can grow up to 6 centimetres.<br />

74<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


NEW RELEASES<br />

2016 Movie Preview<br />

Naufa Ghafoor<br />

2016 approaches with the promise of exciting new movies. Whether it’s<br />

with family, friends or in isolation, these movies are guaranteed to be<br />

worth the watch.<br />

Finding Dory Raees Dad’s Army<br />

Pixar Animation Studios is producing<br />

a movie for our favorite blue fish who<br />

is forgetful yet never fails to remind<br />

us to “just keep swimming!” Finding<br />

Dory is a sequel to Finding Nemo and<br />

is directed and written by Andrew<br />

Stanton, who directed the original<br />

movie as well. The movie is scheduled<br />

to be released in June 2016 by Walt<br />

Disney Studios.<br />

Plot: The film takes up six months<br />

after Nemo was found, with Dory<br />

(Ellen DeGeneres) recalling childhood<br />

memories regarding something about<br />

the jewel of Monterey, California. Find<br />

out if Dory, Nemo (Hayden Rolence)<br />

and Marlin (Albert Brooks) can once<br />

again overcome all obstacles and find<br />

her long lost family.<br />

Under the banners of Excel<br />

Entertainment and Red Chillies<br />

Entertainment, Raees is to be<br />

released on Eid 2016. The movie<br />

is directed by Rahul Dholakia and<br />

produced by Farhan Akhtar, Ritesh<br />

Sidhwani and Gauri Khan.<br />

Plot: Shahrukh Khan, one of the<br />

most famous and beloved actors<br />

of Bollywood, plays the role of a<br />

bootlegger who has the mind of a<br />

miser when it comes to business and<br />

that of a daredevil when it comes to<br />

being brave. His business is then<br />

seriously challenged by a tough cop,<br />

Ghulam Patel (Nawazuddin Siddiqui).<br />

What lengths will this madman go<br />

to, to stop the cop ruining his entire<br />

business?<br />

Dad’s Army is an upcoming 2016<br />

movie which is based on the BBC<br />

television sit-com of the same name.<br />

It is a British war-comedy film directed<br />

by Oliver Parker and written by<br />

Hamish McColl. The movie has a cast<br />

containing some of the most famous<br />

British actors such as Bill Nighy<br />

(Sergeant Wilson), Michael Gambon<br />

(Private Godfrey) and Toby Jones<br />

(Captain Mainwaring).<br />

Plot: The action is set during 1944<br />

when World War II was about to reach<br />

its end. A dazzling journalist is sent<br />

to report on the Walmington-on-Sea<br />

Home Guard platoon just before they<br />

discover that there is a German spy<br />

hiding in the town. Evidently chaos,<br />

confusion and comedy ensue as<br />

the brave army men desperately<br />

try to defend their country from its<br />

anonymous opponent.<br />

Batman VS Superman<br />

Directed by Zack Snyder with the screenplay written by Chris Terrio and David S.<br />

Goyer, DC Comics is putting two of their most popular characters, Batman and<br />

Superman, face to face in one movie for the first time ever.<br />

Plot: Batman (Ben Affleck), fearing that the actions of Superman (Henry Cavill)<br />

are left unchecked, decides to face the god-like superhero himself. While the<br />

world struggles to decide what sort of a hero it really needs, a new threat quickly<br />

arises placing the world in greater danger than ever known to mankind. Will the<br />

two heroes resolve their conflicts and be able to save the world?<br />

www.cococollection.com 75


The Island NATION<br />

All you need to know about the world’s lowest-lying nation<br />

Archipegalo<br />

and islands<br />

Geographical coordinates<br />

3°15’N 73°00’E<br />

Total area<br />

90,000 sqkm<br />

Area of land<br />

298 sqkm<br />

Total no. of islands<br />

1,190 islands<br />

Archipelago<br />

Length: 823 km, Width: 130 km<br />

Total no. of administrative atolls<br />

19 atolls, 189 islands<br />

Highest natural elevation<br />

7.8 ft (2.4 metres)<br />

Average natural elevation<br />

5.9 ft (1.8 metres)<br />

Monsoons<br />

Southwest: May-Oct, Northeast: Nov-Apr<br />

Average daily sunshine<br />

8 hours<br />

Average annual rainfall<br />

1793.3 mm<br />

Humidity<br />

79%<br />

76<br />

BY COCO COLLECTION<br />

JAN2016 | ISSUE <strong>002</strong>


MAP OF MALDIVES<br />

Haa Alifu Atoll<br />

The<br />

Nation<br />

Raa Atoll<br />

Coco Palm<br />

Dhuni Kolhu<br />

Baa Atoll<br />

Alif Alif<br />

Atoll<br />

Alif Dhaalu<br />

Atoll<br />

Faafu Atoll<br />

Dhaalu Atoll<br />

Haa Dhaalu Atoll<br />

Shaviyani Atoll<br />

Noonu Atoll<br />

Lhaviyani Atoll<br />

Kaafu Atoll<br />

Coco<br />

Bodu Hithi<br />

Male’<br />

Vaavu Atoll<br />

Meemu Atoll<br />

Capital city<br />

Male’ (1.77 sqkm, 4°10’N 73°30’E)<br />

Independence<br />

26th July 1965 (from the United Kingdom)<br />

Religion<br />

Islam (Sunni)<br />

Population<br />

341,356 (2014 census)<br />

Maldives standard time<br />

GMT +5<br />

Languages<br />

Dhivehi is the national language. English is widely<br />

spoken as a second language.<br />

Literacy rate<br />

98.2% (10-45 yrs)<br />

Currency<br />

Maldivian Rufiya (MVR/RF, USD 1 = RF 15.42)<br />

Thaa Atoll<br />

Gaafu Dhaal<br />

Atoll<br />

Laamu Atoll<br />

Gaafu Alif Atoll<br />

Global<br />

Connections<br />

Entry<br />

No prior visa arrangements required. A tourist<br />

visa of 30 days will be given to visitors with valid<br />

travel documents, upon arrival.<br />

Calling code<br />

+960<br />

Internet TLD<br />

.mv<br />

EQUATOR<br />

Seenu Atoll<br />

Nyaviyani<br />

Atoll<br />

www.cococollection.com 77

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!