Tokyo Weekender - January 2016

14 | FEATURE | POWDER QUEST
a bubble-era feel and provides a more
traditional Japanese setting, with ryokans
and local onsen for a nice soak after a day
on the mountain. Cold Siberian winds and
an ample snowfall create the famous “snow
monsters” (known as juhyo in Japanese) that
attract visitors and skiers alike. Clumped ice
and snow stick to the tall fir trees to create
bizarre shapes that are more spectacular
than spooky. The awe-inspiring setting and
steep terrain offer an unforgettable getaway.
Nagano’s Shiga Kogen is by far Japan’s
biggest ski resort area and is also home to
the famous onsen-loving snow monkeys.
The snow monkeys have lived in the Shiga
Kogen area for several generations and
visit the natural hot springs near the base
of the mountain daily for a hot soak. The
area is also a center of the Japanese craft
beer renaissance and is home to some of
the finest brews in the country.
The high altitude means Shiga Kogen
consistently has great snow conditions,
and with more than 20 interconnected ski
resorts all accessible with one lift pass,
there is a huge area to explore. The 1998
HOW TO GET THERE
Myoko Kogen - Shinkansen from
Tokyo Station to Nagano, then the JR
Shinetsu Line to Myoko Kogen
(3.5-4 hrs)
Gala Yuzawa - Some direct trains
available in winter between Tokyo
Station and Gala Yuzawa; otherwise
Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo-Yuzawa
and bus to Gala Yuzawa (1.5-2 hrs)
Zao Onsen - Shinkansen from Tokyo
Station to Yamagata Station, then bus
to Zao (~3.5 hrs)
Shiga Kogen - Shinkansen to Nagano,
then bus to Shiga Kogen resorts
(~3 hrs)
Hakuba - Shinkansen to Nagano,
then bus to Hakuba (~3 hrs)
Tenjindaira - Joetsu Shinkansen from
Tokyo Station to Echigo-Yuzawa, then
JR Joetsu Line to Doai (~2 hrs)
Winter in Japan offers a unique opportunity to
explore a wide range of mountain ranges and
embrace seasonal cuisine, spectacular festivals, and
a relaxing soak in an onsen.
Nagano Winter Olympics women’s downhill,
slalom, super-G and snowboarding
events were held here. With more than
80 kilometers of trails there is terrain
for every level of rider. For solo riders
or those looking to explore these resorts
and more the Tokyo Snow Club offers
tours all winter. Trips often include tickets
to local events, sightseeing, and are a
guaranteed good time.
(www.tokyosnowclub.com)
GETTING DEEP AND STEEP
If you are looking to beat the crowds and
score some famous “Ja-pow” there are
several ways to get off the groomed trails
and go off-piste.
Nagano boasts some of the best snow
in Japan: locals as well as international
skiers and snowboarders flock there for
the steep terrain, variety of resorts, and
nearly endless powder.
Meanwhile, Hakuba is one of the
largest snow resort areas in Japan—with
over 12 meters of powder annually it’s
easy to see why. Resorts like Cortina and
Tsugaike offer great access to lift-accessed
sidecountry and relatively mellow backcountry.
There are also a large number of
beginner and intermediate runs available.
Myoko Kogen, near the border of Niigata,
is a freeriders’ playground and also a
great cultural setting. Created in the 1930s,
Myoko derives its name from a Buddhist
phrase that speaks about a “holy mountain
standing in the center of the universe.”
With off-piste and tree skiing permitted,
and some of the longest and closest to vertical
runs in Japan, it can be easy for any
skiing devotee to find their own Nirvana.
Closer to Tokyo is Tenjindaira in
Gunma Prefecture. Tenjindaira is regularly
ranked in the top five Japanese
resorts for snow depth and is one of
Japan’s 100 “Famous Mountains.” Despite
its proximity to Tokyo it’s often less
crowded than farther-flung locations. It
is not uncommon to be graced with 2–3
meters of fresh powder overnight and
long untracked lines in the morning from
the top of the mountain to the base of
the gondola. To access some of the more
extreme and remote lines using a guide
is recommended. In Nagano the Tao of
Pow (www.taoofpow.com) and Hakuba
Mountainlife (www.mountainlife.jp)
provide bilingual and experienced guides
with local knowledge. For adventuring in
Tenjindaira check out Tenjin Lodge for
backcountry tours and accommodation.
(www.tenjinlodge.com)
JANUARY 2016 www.tokyoweekender.com