Tokyo Weekender - February 2016
Hidetoshi Nakata a soccer all-star on the sake trail. The Tokyo Marathon turns ten. Scaling Japan’s frozen heights.
Hidetoshi Nakata a soccer all-star on the sake trail. The Tokyo Marathon turns ten. Scaling Japan’s frozen heights.
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
20 | TRAVEL | HAKUBA<br />
Between the ski and snowboarding courses and an<br />
abundance of accommodations, Hakuba Valley offers plenty<br />
to do on—and off—the slopes<br />
Skier Julie Nieuwenhuys Photo by Caroline Vanthoff<br />
W<br />
inters in <strong>Tokyo</strong> always leave<br />
me hoping to escape to the<br />
mountains, where I can trade<br />
crowded subways for fresh air,<br />
snowy trails, and a rejuvenating onsen dip.<br />
One of the places that was on my to-do list<br />
was Hakuba Valley, a once-secluded gateway<br />
to the Japanese Alps that is now a premier<br />
global ski destination complete with world<br />
class terrain, modern accommodation, and<br />
first class dining.<br />
Ready to get away one afternoon, I took<br />
a short Shinkansen ride from <strong>Tokyo</strong> to Nagano,<br />
followed by a bus to the heart of Happo<br />
village, and I was transported from the neon<br />
lights of the city and was breathing the crisp<br />
mountain air in just about three hours.<br />
During my first evening, I strolled<br />
through the narrow windy streets admiring<br />
the cafes, restaurants, shops, and bars,<br />
each featuring a mix of alpine styling and<br />
Japanese sensibility. The Valley has evolved<br />
since skiing was first introduced to the area<br />
by Austrian mountaineers in the late 1920s,<br />
and while skiers might not have to climb the<br />
mountains themselves any longer, Happo<br />
Village still maintains an Old World atmosphere.<br />
Of course, by the next morning I was<br />
ready to hit the slopes. The area<br />
played host to the 1998 Winter<br />
Olympics, and it’s a snow paradise:<br />
there are 11 ski resorts with more<br />
terrain, vertical rise, and advanced<br />
slopes than you can find anywhere<br />
in Japan. A common lift ticket can be<br />
used at all resorts and you can travel<br />
from resort to resort via shuttle bus.<br />
Happo-one is one of the most popular<br />
resorts in Hakuba—and also one of<br />
the country’s largest. It offers more<br />
than 1,000 vertical feet and is blessed<br />
with breathtaking, panoramic views.<br />
Another impressive resort is Cortina,<br />
which offers a ski in ski out hotel that is just<br />
10 meters from the lift gate. Meanwhile,<br />
All thoughts of<br />
claustrophobic train<br />
commutes were dispelled as<br />
I floated down the mountain<br />
through the powder<br />
Hakuba47 is a sprawling complex that offers<br />
a wide range of slopes and a snow park<br />
for free ride skiers and snowboarders.<br />
Families and beginners can enjoy the<br />
snow with convenient rental shops and<br />
multilingual ski and snowboarding schools.<br />
Spicy Rentals is a long time resident ski and<br />
snowboard rental shop with seven stores<br />
scattered throughout the valley where you<br />
can pick up or drop off your skis or board<br />
at any of their locations. If you’re looking<br />
for a tune up or wax job, be sure to stop by<br />
Rhythm Snow Sports. Their overnight service<br />
is a convenient option and the crew<br />
had my board ready to hit the mountain<br />
early the next morning.<br />
Along with the wide variety of accommodation,<br />
there is a diverse mix of<br />
entertainment and dining options on offer<br />
after a day in the snow—everything from<br />
Japanese and international restaurants to<br />
private chefs, but I decided to try out one of<br />
the newer restaurants on the scene.<br />
Step into Hakuba Brewery and you may<br />
feel as if you’d just set foot in your local<br />
pub. Friendly staff and owners “the Two<br />
Dans” have created an atmosphere that is<br />
welcoming to locals and visitors alike. The<br />
warm wooden interior is constructed from<br />
reclaimed Japanese oak and the roaring<br />
fireplaces give the Brewery an authentic<br />
vibe. The Hakuba Pale Ale is one of the<br />
region’s finest craft beers: produced on site<br />
from natural spring water, it is a perfect<br />
addition to a menu boasting the latest dishes<br />
from a team of international renowned<br />
chefs—you simply can’t go wrong with their<br />
lamb stew. A convenient free shuttle bus<br />
service was much appreciated after a warm<br />
evening by the fire.<br />
A visit to Hakuba wouldn’t be complete<br />
with a soak in a local hot spring. The<br />
recently remodeled Happonoyu onsen at<br />
the base of Happo-one ski resort is perfect<br />
for soothing sore muscles at the end of the<br />
day. The unique high alkalinity levels of<br />
the thermal waters are renowned for their<br />
healing properties. Relaxing in the openair<br />
bath surrounded by the peace of the<br />
mountains left my body feeling revitalized<br />
and relaxed—but in my mind, I was already<br />
preparing my next visit.<br />
www.hakubavalley.com<br />
Inside the Hakuba Brewery<br />
FEBRUARY <strong>2016</strong> www.tokyoweekender.com