Tokyo Weekender - February 2016

20 | TRAVEL | HAKUBA
Between the ski and snowboarding courses and an
abundance of accommodations, Hakuba Valley offers plenty
to do on—and off—the slopes
Skier Julie Nieuwenhuys Photo by Caroline Vanthoff
W
inters in Tokyo always leave
me hoping to escape to the
mountains, where I can trade
crowded subways for fresh air,
snowy trails, and a rejuvenating onsen dip.
One of the places that was on my to-do list
was Hakuba Valley, a once-secluded gateway
to the Japanese Alps that is now a premier
global ski destination complete with world
class terrain, modern accommodation, and
first class dining.
Ready to get away one afternoon, I took
a short Shinkansen ride from Tokyo to Nagano,
followed by a bus to the heart of Happo
village, and I was transported from the neon
lights of the city and was breathing the crisp
mountain air in just about three hours.
During my first evening, I strolled
through the narrow windy streets admiring
the cafes, restaurants, shops, and bars,
each featuring a mix of alpine styling and
Japanese sensibility. The Valley has evolved
since skiing was first introduced to the area
by Austrian mountaineers in the late 1920s,
and while skiers might not have to climb the
mountains themselves any longer, Happo
Village still maintains an Old World atmosphere.
Of course, by the next morning I was
ready to hit the slopes. The area
played host to the 1998 Winter
Olympics, and it’s a snow paradise:
there are 11 ski resorts with more
terrain, vertical rise, and advanced
slopes than you can find anywhere
in Japan. A common lift ticket can be
used at all resorts and you can travel
from resort to resort via shuttle bus.
Happo-one is one of the most popular
resorts in Hakuba—and also one of
the country’s largest. It offers more
than 1,000 vertical feet and is blessed
with breathtaking, panoramic views.
Another impressive resort is Cortina,
which offers a ski in ski out hotel that is just
10 meters from the lift gate. Meanwhile,
All thoughts of
claustrophobic train
commutes were dispelled as
I floated down the mountain
through the powder
Hakuba47 is a sprawling complex that offers
a wide range of slopes and a snow park
for free ride skiers and snowboarders.
Families and beginners can enjoy the
snow with convenient rental shops and
multilingual ski and snowboarding schools.
Spicy Rentals is a long time resident ski and
snowboard rental shop with seven stores
scattered throughout the valley where you
can pick up or drop off your skis or board
at any of their locations. If you’re looking
for a tune up or wax job, be sure to stop by
Rhythm Snow Sports. Their overnight service
is a convenient option and the crew
had my board ready to hit the mountain
early the next morning.
Along with the wide variety of accommodation,
there is a diverse mix of
entertainment and dining options on offer
after a day in the snow—everything from
Japanese and international restaurants to
private chefs, but I decided to try out one of
the newer restaurants on the scene.
Step into Hakuba Brewery and you may
feel as if you’d just set foot in your local
pub. Friendly staff and owners “the Two
Dans” have created an atmosphere that is
welcoming to locals and visitors alike. The
warm wooden interior is constructed from
reclaimed Japanese oak and the roaring
fireplaces give the Brewery an authentic
vibe. The Hakuba Pale Ale is one of the
region’s finest craft beers: produced on site
from natural spring water, it is a perfect
addition to a menu boasting the latest dishes
from a team of international renowned
chefs—you simply can’t go wrong with their
lamb stew. A convenient free shuttle bus
service was much appreciated after a warm
evening by the fire.
A visit to Hakuba wouldn’t be complete
with a soak in a local hot spring. The
recently remodeled Happonoyu onsen at
the base of Happo-one ski resort is perfect
for soothing sore muscles at the end of the
day. The unique high alkalinity levels of
the thermal waters are renowned for their
healing properties. Relaxing in the openair
bath surrounded by the peace of the
mountains left my body feeling revitalized
and relaxed—but in my mind, I was already
preparing my next visit.
www.hakubavalley.com
Inside the Hakuba Brewery
FEBRUARY 2016 www.tokyoweekender.com