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location in Upper Burma were removed. (The modern-day edition has been restored, with a few later editorial changes, to its original form.) To facilitate some of the geographical disguises, Orwell drew a sketch-map of Katha for his publisher. On the map are roughly drawn boxes marking the location of Flory’s house, the church, the bazaar, the jail and the British club – the physical and spiritual centerpiece of Burmese Days. According to Orwell, the real seat of British power lay, not in the commissioner’s mansion or the police station, but in this sad, dusty little building. The club building still stands today, though it has since been turned into a government-owned cooperative. Where the garden used to be a riot of English flowers – larkspur, hollyhock and petunia – there are now large warehouses holding stores of rice, oil and sugar. The low tin roof of the club still hangs over a wooden verandah at the entrance, but the main room has been divided by a wall and is filled with desks and mismatched chairs. In Flory’s time, the interior boasted a mangy billiard table, a library of mildewed novels, months-old copies of Punch magazine and the dusty skull of a sambar deer on one wall. Members of Katha’s British community whiled away interminable evenings with tepid gin and tonics and inane club chatter about dogs, gramophones, tennis racquets, the infernal heat and, inevitably, the insolence of the Burmese (older club members recalled the good old days of the colony when you could send a servant to the jail with a note reading, ‘Please give the bearer fifteen lashes’). Most colonial memoirs I have read paint a jolly picture of life in Burma; making affectionate references to the butlers from Madras who prepared ice-cold shandy on river flotillas, ribald drinking songs around the club piano, shooting expeditions, dances. Burmese Days, however, is something very different. It is a portrait of the dark side of the Raj, chronicling sordid and shameful episodes of empire life. Few of the characters in Burmese Days have any redeemable features; both British and Burmese alike are tarnished by the colonial system in which they live. As far as fictional heroes go, John Flory is painfully inadequate. He is cowardly, self-pitying, and carelessly cruel. In nearly every chapter he does something to debase himself, something for the reader to cringe at. But he is, like most of Orwell’s leading men, uncomfortably and almost unbearably human. There are hints throughout Burmese Days of the future themes for which Orwell would later become so well known. Flory is the lone and lacking individual trapped within a bigger system that is undermining the better side of human nature. Like Flory, Orwell was surrounded during his time in Burma by people he felt he had nothing in common with and to whom he could not fully reveal himself. When Flory muses on the constraints of colonial society, he could just as well be in the Oceania of Nineteen Eighty-Four: ‘It is a world in which every word and every thought is censored… even friendship can hardly exist when every white man is a cog in the wheels of despotism. Free speech is unthinkable. All other kinds of freedom are permitted. You are free to be a drunkard, an idler, a coward, a backbiter, a fornicator; but you are not free to think for yourself.’ When Burmese Days was first published in the 1930s it came as a surprise to some old Burma hands. A colleague of Orwell’s who had received training with him at the Mandalay Police Training School
felt that Orwell had ‘rather let the side down’. The training school’s burly principal was reportedly livid and threatened to horsewhip Orwell if he ever saw him again. In defence of his harsh portrayal of colonial society, Orwell wrote simply, ‘I dare say it’s unfair in some ways and inaccurate in some details, but much of it is simply reporting what I have seen.’ It is a curious twist of fate that Orwell’s later novels have mirrored Burma’s recent history. In Burma today, there is a joke that Orwell didn’t write just one novel about the country, but three; a trilogy comprised of Burmese Days, Animal Farm and Nineteen Eighty-Four. The link begins with Burmese Days as it chronicles the country’s period under British colonialism. Not long after Burma became independent from Britain, a military dictator who took power in 1962 sealed off the country from the outside world, launched ‘The Burmese Way to Socialism’ and turned Burma into one of the poorest countries in Asia. The same story is told in Orwell’s Animal Farm, an allegorical tale about a socialist revolution gone wrong in which a group of pigs overthrow the human farmers and run the farm into ruin. Nineteen Eighty-Four, Orwell’s description of a horrifying and soulless dystopia, paints a chillingly evocative picture of Burma today, a country ruled by one of the world’s most tenacious military dictatorships. Intellectuals in Burma laughingly refer to Orwell as ‘the prophet’. And, just as Orwell’s shadow continued to fall across Burma, so Burma never really relinquished its hold on Orwell either. There are physical affectations that Orwell picked up in Burma which remained with him throughout his life. While in Burma, he acquired a moustache similar to those worn by officers of the British regiments stationed there. Orwell also acquired some tattoos while he was there; on each knuckle he had a small untidy blue circle. Many Burmese living in rural areas still sport tattoos like this – they are believed to protect against bullets and snake bites. A decade after Orwell had returned to England, he slipped the following paragraph into a book review he wrote: ‘For an average Englishman in India [Burma was then ruled as part of the Indian empire] the basic fact, more important even than the loneliness or the heat of the sun, is the strangeness of the scenery. In the beginning the foreign landscape bores him, later he hates it, in the end he comes to love it, but it is never quite out of his consciousness and all his beliefs are in a mysterious way affected by it.’ When Orwell wrote about Burma in Burmese Days he produced his most elaborate descriptive writing and the novel is given a supremely exotic backdrop, drenched in mist and tropical flowers. Orwell’s other books seem to lack the fervour of Burmese Days. Neither his writing on Spain, nor England, produced such vivid ‘purple passages’, as he deridingly called them. The scenery of the East clearly got under Orwell’s skin. Two of Orwell’s most powerful essays, ‘Shooting an Elephant’ and ‘A Hanging’, are based on his time in Burma. And, on his deathbed, it was to this setting that Orwell’s mind wandered once again as he sought inspiration for another novel. Though doctors at the Cotswolds’ sanatorium where Orwell was being treated for pulmonary tuberculosis had confiscated his typewriter and advised him to stop writing, he stubbornly continued. He scribbled letters, composed essays, reviewed books, and corrected the proofs of his soon-to-be-published novel Nineteen Eighty-Four. Also simmering in his
- Page 3 and 4: GEORGE ORWELL Burmese Days This des
- Page 5 and 6: Chapter XXIII Chapter XXIV Chapter
- Page 7 and 8: Key to a sketch-map of Kyauktada th
- Page 9: announced to them that he was going
- Page 13 and 14: A Note on the Text Burmese Days pos
- Page 15 and 16: I U Po Kyin, Sub-divisional Magistr
- Page 17 and 18: wages, for he was a convicted thief
- Page 19 and 20: than bribery; they expect a native
- Page 21 and 22: Ma Kin bent her head over her sewin
- Page 23 and 24: if it had not proved a convenient s
- Page 25 and 26: married, she had left him for a for
- Page 27 and 28: you, Westfield, proud as Punch of y
- Page 29 and 30: Mrs Lackersteen, unequal to the qua
- Page 31 and 32: ‘Our burra sahib at Mandalay alwa
- Page 33 and 34: glare sent a weariness through one
- Page 35 and 36: It was a joke between the two men t
- Page 37 and 38: various industries. Where are the I
- Page 39 and 40: efore this cursed sun gets too high
- Page 41 and 42: ‘Yes, I heard that. We hear all t
- Page 43 and 44: Ko S’la put the tea-tray down on
- Page 45 and 46: her, because of its strangeness and
- Page 47 and 48: Flory got out of the water, put on
- Page 49 and 50: V In spite of the whisky he had dru
- Page 51 and 52: school. In his last term he and ano
- Page 53 and 54: imperialism in which he lived. For
- Page 55 and 56: streaming egrets-were more native t
- Page 57 and 58: ‘No.’ ‘You have been in priso
- Page 59 and 60: (Signed) A FRIEND. The letter was w
felt that Orwell had ‘rather let the side down’. The training school’s burly principal was reportedly<br />
livid and threatened to horsewhip Orwell if he ever saw him again.<br />
In defence of his harsh portrayal of colonial society, Orwell wrote simply, ‘I dare say it’s unfair in<br />
some ways and inaccurate in some details, but much of it is simply reporting what I have seen.’<br />
It is a curious twist of fate that Orwell’s later novels have mirrored Burma’s recent history. In Burma<br />
today, there is a joke that Orwell didn’t write just one novel about the country, but three; a trilogy<br />
comprised of Burmese Days, Animal Farm and Nineteen Eighty-Four.<br />
The link begins with Burmese Days as it chronicles the country’s period under British colonialism.<br />
Not long after Burma became independent from Britain, a military dictator who took power in 1962<br />
sealed off the country from the outside world, launched ‘The Burmese Way to Socialism’ and turned<br />
Burma into one of the poorest countries in Asia. The same story is told in Orwell’s Animal Farm, an<br />
allegorical tale about a socialist revolution gone wrong in which a group of pigs overthrow the human<br />
farmers and run the farm into ruin. Nineteen Eighty-Four, Orwell’s description of a horrifying and<br />
soulless dystopia, paints a chillingly evocative picture of Burma today, a country ruled by one of the<br />
world’s most tenacious military dictatorships.<br />
Intellectuals in Burma laughingly refer to Orwell as ‘the prophet’. And, just as Orwell’s shadow<br />
continued to fall across Burma, so Burma never really relinquished its hold on Orwell either.<br />
There are physical affectations that Orwell picked up in Burma which remained with him<br />
throughout his life. While in Burma, he acquired a moustache similar to those worn by officers of the<br />
British regiments stationed there. Orwell also acquired some tattoos while he was there; on each<br />
knuckle he had a small untidy blue circle. Many Burmese living in rural areas still sport tattoos like<br />
this – they are believed to protect against bullets and snake bites.<br />
A decade after Orwell had returned to England, he slipped the following paragraph into a book<br />
review he wrote:<br />
‘For an average Englishman in India [Burma was then ruled as part of the Indian empire] the basic fact, more important even<br />
than the loneliness or the heat of the sun, is the strangeness of the scenery. In the beginning the foreign landscape bores him,<br />
later he hates it, in the end he comes to love it, but it is never quite out of his consciousness and all his beliefs are in a<br />
mysterious way affected by it.’<br />
When Orwell wrote about Burma in Burmese Days he produced his most elaborate descriptive<br />
writing and the novel is given a supremely exotic backdrop, drenched in mist and tropical flowers.<br />
Orwell’s other books seem to lack the fervour of Burmese Days. Neither his writing on Spain, nor<br />
England, produced such vivid ‘purple passages’, as he deridingly called them. The scenery of the<br />
East clearly got under Orwell’s skin.<br />
Two of Orwell’s most powerful essays, ‘Shooting an Elephant’ and ‘A Hanging’, are based on his<br />
time in Burma. And, on his deathbed, it was to this setting that Orwell’s mind wandered once again as<br />
he sought inspiration for another novel. Though doctors at the Cotswolds’ sanatorium where Orwell<br />
was being treated for pulmonary tuberculosis had confiscated his typewriter and advised him to stop<br />
writing, he stubbornly continued. He scribbled letters, composed essays, reviewed books, and<br />
corrected the proofs of his soon-to-be-published novel Nineteen Eighty-Four. Also simmering in his