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14<br />

MONDAY, APRIL <strong>24</strong>, <strong>2017</strong><br />

DT<br />

Opinion<br />

The<br />

revolutionary<br />

industry<br />

The Rana Plaza collapse was a<br />

big blow to our economy, but we<br />

managed to learn a lot from it<br />

• Mamun Rashid<br />

I<br />

was nearly forced into the<br />

BGMEA advisory board by my<br />

friend Atiqul Islam, former<br />

BGMEA president, to help<br />

him come out of the mess that was<br />

the Rana Plaza collapse and other<br />

relevant incidents.<br />

It was a very challenging<br />

time -- morale was down, many<br />

small factories were taken out of<br />

the global supply chain, orders<br />

were cancelled, rights groups<br />

were becoming vocal against the<br />

Bangladesh apparel sector and so<br />

was the international civil society,<br />

academia, and development<br />

partners.<br />

Anything the BGMEA<br />

leadership thought of doing<br />

was twisted against them, be it<br />

individually or collectively.<br />

Every little concession or<br />

waiver from the government was<br />

being challenged by the media and<br />

part of the local civil society. There<br />

were surprises everywhere.<br />

A headless chicken<br />

Our BGMEA friends didn’t know<br />

what to do. The government and<br />

senior political leadership were<br />

out to salvage our apparel sector<br />

in any way possible -- perhaps the<br />

silver lining in this sordid affair.<br />

Our PMO, finance ministry,<br />

labour ministry, and the<br />

foreign ministry showed an<br />

unprecedented combined effort in<br />

tackling the situation.<br />

The buyers, upon pressure<br />

from international civil society,<br />

somehow echoed voice of a<br />

portion of our civil society; and<br />

the government decided to form<br />

Accord and Alliance to streamline<br />

their efforts in ensuring worker<br />

safety in our RMG sector.<br />

While the ILO put in an<br />

integrated effort along with the<br />

government.<br />

The sad part was that certain<br />

elements within the BGMEA<br />

leadership were still feeling rather<br />

restrictive, and even aggressive to<br />

some extent.<br />

They were averse to any<br />

criticism or media reports, even if<br />

it was genuinely constructive. We<br />

had long sessions with them and<br />

Atiqul Islam.<br />

We forced them to bite a few<br />

bullets -- build bridges with media<br />

community, the civil society, the<br />

international media, and business<br />

school professors, and, more<br />

importantly, hold regular dialogue<br />

with workers and their leaders.<br />

Most of us realised<br />

that our workers<br />

were the true<br />

partners in progress<br />

-- and we genuinely<br />

need to take care of<br />

our true partners<br />

Damage control<br />

That was the time we recruited<br />

a few serving journalists to join<br />

the BGMEA, strengthened their<br />

research wing, got in touch with<br />

leading academia at Harvard<br />

Business School and Stern School<br />

of Business, changed the BGMEA<br />

directory to “apparel story” to<br />

accommodate more opinions from<br />

the factory floors and other stakeholders.<br />

In the same way, BATEXPO<br />

became the “Bangladesh Apparel<br />

Summit.”<br />

With extensive help from<br />

ILO, the EU, and other global<br />

stake-holders, we were able to<br />

put up Centre of Excellence for<br />

Bangladesh Apparel Industry.<br />

The market could see a lot of<br />

synergy taking place between<br />

broader stake-holders.<br />

It wasn’t all about scrubbing<br />

The cornerstone of our country<br />

off the bad image and reputation<br />

that our RMG industry had donned<br />

after Rana Plaza; we also worked<br />

very closely with National Board of<br />

Revenue and Bangladesh Bank to<br />

reevaluate the apparel industry’s<br />

tariff structure, especially to save<br />

the small ones from the brink of<br />

collapse, increase the size of the<br />

export development fund (EDF),<br />

and increase the entity/single<br />

party limit under EDF.<br />

We initiated dialogue with the<br />

Japanese embassy and JICA to<br />

explore the possibilities of putting<br />

up a financing package in order<br />

to retrofit and relocate the small<br />

factories.<br />

We held several discussions<br />

with regard to putting up an<br />

integrated financing package for<br />

establishing the “garments polli”<br />

at Bausia, Munshiganj.<br />

The true partners<br />

We weren’t quite as successful<br />

as we’d hoped we’d be, since a<br />

befittingly large financing package<br />

at an affordable rate could not be<br />

arranged commercially.<br />

A few Chinese companies did<br />

show interest, one even signed an<br />

MoU. I am not aware of the latest<br />

development.<br />

One thing we understood<br />

was that the Bangladesh apparel<br />

industry has reached the “too big<br />

to fail” stage, due to its size and<br />

product diversity.<br />

Most of us realised that our<br />

workers were the true partners in<br />

progress -- and we genuinely need<br />

to take care of our true partners.<br />

We kept on talking about<br />

“productivity improvement,”<br />

but not much could be done<br />

as it required heavy financial<br />

commitment.<br />

While few of our apparel<br />

producers reached an enviable<br />

stage -- be it green factory<br />

environment, workers health<br />

and safety, building technology<br />

solutions, or the business reengineering<br />

process -- many<br />

others lagged behind.<br />

It’s important to note how most<br />

of our producers realised that the<br />

RAJIB DHAR<br />

government can’t do much apart<br />

from using police force to pacify<br />

mobs or workers.<br />

We need to solve our own<br />

problems in managing workers,<br />

through the adoption of better<br />

technology to increase production,<br />

avoiding any surprises by<br />

putting up improved fire-safety<br />

equipment, and ensuring worker<br />

training and efficient financing<br />

package.<br />

We are now talking to the<br />

media, the US state department,<br />

the EU, and other development<br />

partners much more openly than<br />

in the past.<br />

We are ready to take criticism<br />

into account, go the extra mile to<br />

build friendships, and constantly<br />

research new avenues for growth.<br />

Thanks to Atiq and his BGMEA<br />

team for rising to the occasion and<br />

making a commitment to learning<br />

from mistakes. •<br />

Mamun Rashid is a leading economic<br />

analyst and former advisory board<br />

member, BGMEA.

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