The Diary and Letters of Gouverneur Morris, vol. 2 - Online Library of ...

Online Library of Liberty: The Diary and Letters of Gouverneur Morris, vol. 2
Constantly successful in the field, she is running to ruin with a rapidity that is as yet
unknown in the history of human affairs. Before I left Paris, Mr. Monroe called on me
and explained his conduct and his views. He begins to find out that fine words are of
little value, and his letters from America show me that something more is expected
(and justly expected) there, for many violences committed against our merchants. In
my opinion he has taken the wrong tone at first, and will find much difficulty in
changing it now. Time must determine a pretty serious question on that subject. So far
as I am personally concerned at least, I have the consolation to have made no sacrifice
either of personal or national dignity, and I believe I would have obtained everything
if the American Government had refused to recall me. I rejoice that I am no longer in
the pitiful situation which I have so long endured; for the rest, experience must
decide, and I hope that events will be favorable to America. At Sainport, I feel
relieved and rejoiced to be for a day without the torment of attention to any sort of
affairs, after having been so plagued with a variety of them. The weather is mild today
and threatens for to-morrow. I must wish for soft weather, both on account of my
gout and of my journey. Should it turn cold, Mount Jura will prove a tough morsel. I
did not reach Sainport till a quarter after three; say, from Paris, five hours and a
quarter. I used to come with my own horses easily in four hours, generally in three
and a half.”
“This morning [October 14th] I get off from Sainport at ten minutes before eleven. At
Pont-sur-Yonne I am forced to apply to the officers of justice to settle the extortion of
the postilion; and then on again through very rich but badly cultivated land, through
which the Yonne meanders to Vallogne. Here the landlady of the inn is in the style of
the ancien régime, and every ‘monsieur’ she utters is worth five sous at least in the
bill. Pass Dijon and arrive at Mont-sur-Vaudray, where there are no horses, and I must
wait till others can be refreshed; I am obliged to subscribe to the terms the postilion
was pleased to propose, although the law is in my favor; but what signifies the law in
this country at present? A half-drunk and wholly insolent postilion takes me one post,
where we rise in truth a mountain, but the road is excellent; there is a striking view,
which to the approaching traveller is terribly beautiful, if he gives the rein to
imagination. In a valley towards which he goes are thrown a parcel of mountains,
somewhat resembling cocks of hay but of a mass more great as well as more solid, for
they are large and of rock. In the midst of them, as if intended for theatrical
decorations, is one on the side of which the road resembles a little ribbon, and it hangs
over a vast precipice. Both the beginning and the end are hidden, one by the mountain
itself, the other by the base of a brother-mountain which is nearer to us. After
descending into the valley we turn to the left, and, having wound round that part
which was concealed, we turn to the right, and gain that which was disclosed. Up
these roads we go, drawn by three horses, the postilion amusing himself as he walks
behind the carriage, and a horse need only sheer a little to throw the carriage and its
contents at least a hundred fathoms upon the rocks beneath. To show apprehension
would be only to excite mirth, and induce him to try projects, for I observed the
fellow looking at me askance to discover whether I am terrified, but a very severe
countenance and not a word spoken induces him to take hold of the bridle of his
porteur. It was time.”
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