Tapestry Weaver Issue 21 March 2017

<strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong><br />

The British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group • <strong>Issue</strong> <strong>21</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2017</strong>


BTG Committee <strong>2017</strong><br />

Contents<br />

<strong>Issue</strong> <strong>21</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />

Chair<br />

Trisha Gow: info@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />

Acting Hon. Treasurer<br />

Anna Wetherell<br />

Hon Secretary<br />

Veronica Collins: vt_collins@btinternet.co.uk<br />

TW Editor<br />

Hilary O’Connell: tweditor@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />

Website Manager/Information Manager<br />

Eleonora Budden: info@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />

Committee Members<br />

Cande Walsworth<br />

Stephanie Edwards<br />

Paulette Furnival<br />

Carole Tricker<br />

Supporting BTG<br />

Membership Secretary<br />

Jenny Lacey: membership@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />

Advertising Manager<br />

Sarah Mclean: advertising@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />

<strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong> Team<br />

Proof Readers: Stephanie Edwards, Angie Willis and<br />

Sally Reckert<br />

Design<br />

Matt Smith: matt@shimuzu.co.uk<br />

Printing and Post: Alphaset<br />

Social Media Team<br />

Facebook<br />

Clare Coyle: clarecoyle@madasafish.com<br />

Twitter<br />

Katie Russell: tuliprussell@gmail.com<br />

The articles written in this publication do not represent the<br />

views of either the BTG or the BTG Management Committee.<br />

BTG Founder Members<br />

Ros Bryant, Janet Clark, Beryl Hammill, Shirley Ross and Nicola<br />

Wheeler<br />

The Purpose/Vision of the BTG<br />

The British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group exists to promote woven <strong>Tapestry</strong> as a<br />

contemporary art form in the UK, by raising public awareness<br />

through professional Exhibitions, networking, regional initiatives,<br />

training and development.<br />

4.<br />

4.<br />

5.<br />

6.<br />

8.<br />

10.<br />

12.<br />

14.<br />

15.<br />

16.<br />

18.<br />

20.<br />

22.<br />

23.<br />

24.<br />

26.<br />

Chair’s Report<br />

Trisha Gow<br />

Editor’s Report<br />

Hilary O’Connell<br />

My Favourite Weaving<br />

Caroline Reali<br />

Earth Air Fire Water<br />

Barbara Heller<br />

Weaving on a Grand Scale<br />

Elizabeth Radcliffe<br />

Here and Now<br />

Margaret Jones<br />

The Long and Winding Road<br />

Louise Broughton<br />

<strong>Weaver</strong>’s Profile<br />

Marilyn Eustice<br />

My Favourite Weaving<br />

Eleonora Budden<br />

. . . supporting those who are<br />

starting on their weaving journey . . .<br />

Leslie Whitcomb<br />

Making an Exhibition of Ourselves<br />

Liz Chester<br />

The Company I (Like To) Keep<br />

Heather Smith<br />

Knotted <strong>Tapestry</strong>: A Course with<br />

Anne Jackson<br />

Lorna C. Goldsmith<br />

Solway <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong>s<br />

Pat Stonell<br />

A Sense of Place<br />

Christine Paine<br />

A Chance Encounter<br />

Sarah McLean<br />

Cover Photo Credits (From Left to Right, Top to Bottom)<br />

Giants Causeway Weaving by Caroline Reali • Sample in Progress by<br />

Lorna C. Goldsmith • Cool Waters by Heather Smith • Storm Surge by<br />

Liz Chester • Erosion 1 by Louise Broughton • Cool Bitch and Hot Dog<br />

by Elizabeth Radcliffe • Parrot Practice by Eleonora Budden • Marc<br />

Camille Chaimowicz by Elizabeth Radcliffe • Ozymadias by Ted Clarke<br />

• Making Ends Meet by Marilyn Eustice • Double Interlock Sample by<br />

Christine Paine • Birch Kin by Leslie Whitcomb • Still Life with Bird by<br />

Ted Clarke • Mermaids by Liz Chester • Celebrity by Liz Chester • One<br />

Way by Ted Clarke.


My Favourite Weaving<br />

Caroline Reali<br />

Chair’s Report<br />

On behalf of the committee I am delighted to announce that the following Full members have been selected for<br />

the Sound and Weave (S&W) exhibition.<br />

They are Christine Sawyer; Margaret Crowther; Louise Martin; Lin Squires; Jane Brunning; Cos Ahmet; Alastair<br />

Duncan; Louise Oppenheimer; Margaret Jones; Paulette Furnival; Ros Bryant; Stephanie Edwards and Katie<br />

Russell.<br />

You will remember that the Sound &Weave concept had three strands . The second is the S&W online exhibition<br />

and we are in the process of finalising this information and we will be sending this out to you sometime in April.<br />

The third strand is taking place at local level, we hope that members in regional groups have been discussing what<br />

they would like to do. If you are not in a regional group but want to get together with some members to put on an<br />

S&W exhibition/open studio let us know.<br />

During October members from the London /SE areas were demonstrating <strong>Tapestry</strong> Weaving at the Knitting and<br />

Stitch show in the Craft in Action area. By all accounts this went very well with a good space allocated for<br />

demonstrating. After the Harrogate K&S some members living in the Mid/North of England have decided to work<br />

together to promote the BTG at various local shows, we look forward to hearing more about their plans.<br />

formation of rocks further in the distance, which will<br />

be smoother in appearance and give some<br />

dimension to the piece.<br />

I spend time selecting my yarns and combine<br />

colours. I use mainly Swedish linens which have a<br />

lovely lustre and depth of colour.<br />

I like to pack in as much detail as 10 ends to the inch<br />

allows. I find this sufficiently fine to weave detail as<br />

well as giving good coverage.<br />

Starting off is always uncertain as I don’t know if the<br />

weaving will work and it takes some time to emerge<br />

and make sense. I mark the warp with black felt tip<br />

as a guide to where I am heading. I rarely use a<br />

cartoon unless the piece is larger.<br />

This weaving is taking longer than usual due to the<br />

lack of daylight at present as I don’t like weaving in<br />

artificial light; I confuse the colours. My eyesight has<br />

never been brilliant so I work in short bursts of<br />

concentration whilst listening to Radio 4.<br />

During the last year we have asked for members, who are interested in helping us manage the BTG, to get in<br />

touch. Some of the areas we need specific help are with marketing and promotion and taking forward our<br />

exhibition planning after S&W- can you help?<br />

This edition of TW is going to be the first to be provided in print and digital format – we are looking forward to<br />

accessing it through the BTG website and I hope you enjoy reading it.<br />

Trisha Gow<br />

Editor’s Report<br />

What a wonderful way to bow out from the Editor’s position than with a beautiful <strong>Issue</strong> as I think this one is.<br />

Thank you to everyone who has contributed to the last seven <strong>Issue</strong>s, it has been a pleasure to work with you<br />

all and share your experiences and images with the members of the British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group. You are an<br />

amazing group of creative geniuses who are inspirational and very generous. Also thank you to the <strong>Tapestry</strong><br />

<strong>Weaver</strong> team who have been so supportive and just brilliant. So now I am off to pastures new where I will<br />

look forward to reading the next issue. Good luck to my successor, I know you will enjoy this position as I<br />

have. To you all, Happy Weaving!<br />

Hilary O’Connell<br />

4 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

Giants Causeway Weaving<br />

My favourite weaving is always the piece that I am<br />

working on. Once a piece is finished I lose interest<br />

and want to move onto the next challenging<br />

subject. This piece 'Giant’s Causeway’ is being<br />

woven for a specific exhibition, in which I hope it<br />

will be shown.<br />

I work from photos taken of places I have visited.<br />

These are my own postcards/souvenirs reminding<br />

me of my experiences and feelings about a place.<br />

Translating a flat photograph into a textural weaving<br />

requires experience and imagination to make it work<br />

otherwise it could end up being a copy which has<br />

taken a considerable period of time and effort to<br />

produce.<br />

I visited the Giant’s Causeway on a blustery, windy<br />

day. There was a small window of clear weather<br />

when I was able to take photos of this impressive<br />

landscape, somehow avoiding the tourists climbing<br />

all over it. I focused particularly on the formation of<br />

rocks and textures of the foreground.<br />

When I start to weave I work out the size and then<br />

how I am going to weave it and what effect I want to<br />

achieve. I take notes of the techniques I am going to<br />

use. The foreground is rougher in texture than the<br />

Once the image makes sense I speed up and my<br />

motivation increases. I weave using my fingers. I<br />

never could get the hang of bobbins. I like the feel of<br />

the yarn as it passes through my fingers.<br />

I am not quite halfway. I have used plain weave in<br />

small areas contrasting with tufting and wrapping<br />

techniques (using a darning needle for this) also<br />

soumak to depict the roughness of the stones.<br />

The next stage will be more challenging when I<br />

weave the formation of stones. I haven’t decided<br />

whether to leave the slits. I will decide at a later stage<br />

and see what it looks like.<br />

This is what makes tapestry weaving so unique and<br />

absorbing.<br />

Images by Caroline Reali<br />

Giants Causeway Detail<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 5


Earth Air Fire Water<br />

From my own miscarriage to 9/11 to the degradation of our environment, I have always made<br />

art from what bothers me. I chose tapestry to translate these concerns because the process<br />

gives me joy. The slow accretion of yarn and colour leaves me time to meditate upon the<br />

message I wish to convey.<br />

Still Life with Bird<br />

Ozymandias, included in the exhibit “Here and Now”<br />

curated by Lesley Millar at the National Centre for Craft<br />

and design in Sleaford, had a longer gestation. I was<br />

concerned about the legacy of the landmines buried<br />

throughout the world, but what images to use? A dead<br />

bird, obviously, as it had become a personal icon, but I<br />

did not want to show a mangled corpse or a child on<br />

crutches. And then, on a trip to Mexico, I found this<br />

broken rag doll on the pavement and everything fell into<br />

place. This artist statement from 2003 reads:<br />

People bury land mines and then people bury the<br />

victims of land mines.<br />

Land mines and the devastation they cause are a potent<br />

symbol of how the innocent suffer from the effects of war -<br />

most victims of land mines are children and the elderly who<br />

unwittingly stray into an unmarked mine field. Man thinks<br />

he is in control of his world but unexpected natural disasters<br />

and predictable (and preventable) man-made disasters are<br />

equally deadly.<br />

Sometimes it can take decades (literally) to complete a<br />

series and Earth, Air, Fire and Water is still in progress.<br />

The first tapestry (though the quartet was not even<br />

imagined at the time) was air. When the Twin Towers in<br />

New York were destroyed in 2001 there were powerful<br />

and disturbing images everywhere and two years later<br />

Still Life…with Bird was the result. My artist statement at<br />

the time said:<br />

Destruction, resurrection, desolation, hope, memory. No one<br />

remains unaffected by the events of 9/11 and continuing<br />

acts of terrorism worldwide. We know it can happen<br />

anywhere, anytime, and to anyone.<br />

The skeleton of the world trade centre, the skeleton of a bird<br />

wing, actual bones; all testaments to terrorism as a tactic.<br />

The orange sky evokes the aftermath of 9/11, the bones<br />

evoke museum displays. Bones are precious; they can be<br />

buried in a cairn or burned in a crematorium or buried in<br />

another sense in a dusty museum drawer. In future ages<br />

will archaeologists dig in what was once New York and<br />

wonder at what they find?<br />

The bird hovering in the sky - is this the angel of death come<br />

to wreak havoc on an uncaring world or is this the<br />

Quetzelcoatl, the phoenix, rising from the bones and the<br />

ashes of a dead civilisation to create a new world?<br />

6 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

Ozymadias<br />

Along the bottom of the tapestry in blue-green boxes are the<br />

land mines, hidden and deadly. I have woven them as<br />

drawings and used metallic threads to emphasise their<br />

man-made nature.<br />

Above lies a rag doll with gingham and hearts referring to<br />

the innocence of childhood… The doll lies in a vast desert, a<br />

wasteland with distant buildings on the horizon lit up by<br />

tracer fire in a night sky. The tracer bullets can be seen as<br />

fireworks and I used shiny yarns to make them more festive,<br />

a contrast to their true purpose.<br />

For me the bird is the angel of death, menacing and lethal,<br />

but it could also be seen as an avenging angel crying out in<br />

anguish over what man has wrought, or a mother bird<br />

crying out a warning.<br />

Now I had two tapestries woven in a similar format but<br />

it would take a decade to get to the next in the series.<br />

After yet another disastrous oil spill, I turned to the same<br />

format to depict my concerns about the poisoning of<br />

water, the source of life on this small planet. In 2013 One<br />

Way was woven:<br />

A pelican, its feathers covered in oil from the recent oil spill<br />

in the Gulf of Mexico, tries to rise up from the polluted<br />

waters, crying out his warning of the future that we are<br />

allowing to happen.<br />

Behind him is a flooded small town, symbolising a way of<br />

life that is drowning through the consequences of climate<br />

change. Telephone poles stand at a slant, cars are<br />

One Way<br />

submerged; one street sign allows traffic to go straight ahead<br />

or turn left, while the one above, a one way sign, points right.<br />

We can only go in one direction.<br />

The small blue-green boxes at the bottom of the tapestry<br />

illustrate other consequences of our negligence. A<br />

hermaphroditic fish covered by the molecule for oestrogen<br />

represents what we are doing to the creatures that share our<br />

planet: we are literally poisoning them with our own waste.<br />

The zebra mussels and milfoil represent the invasive species<br />

that we carry in our wake as we trample over mother earth.<br />

The bits of plastic in the remaining two boxes were picked<br />

up from two beaches, one on the Pacific Ocean and one on<br />

the Mediterranean.<br />

We cannot sweep the refuse of our civilisation beneath the<br />

sand and pretend it does not exist: it does not go away.<br />

And what of the fourth tapestry in this series? It would<br />

be the last of the four elements, fire, and ideas and<br />

images are percolating in the back of my brain. We will<br />

all, including me, have to wait and see what results on<br />

the loom.<br />

Barbara Heller<br />

Photographs by Ted Clarke, Image This Photographics, January <strong>2017</strong><br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 7


Weaving on a Grand Scale<br />

By Elizabeth Radcliffe<br />

Back when I was at Edinburgh College of Art, I found that I was looking at my fellow students and<br />

even old fashion magazines for inspiration. I have always been interested in fabric and started<br />

making most of my own clothes over fifty years ago. I felt that you could tell something about<br />

people from the kind of clothes they wore and that you didn't have to depict the whole figure to<br />

make a statement about a person.<br />

In my sketch books, I tried to capture the qualities of<br />

texture and pattern that I found most interesting.<br />

Looking at the clothes around me, I saw fur-fabric,<br />

corduroy, tweed, boucle wools, Fair Isle knitting,<br />

leather, woolly pullovers by the dozen, (it does get<br />

cold up here in Scotland) and, of course, denim to<br />

name but a few. Over the years I have tried to<br />

capture these surface qualities in my work.<br />

to weave the face of the figure and Ritzi showed me<br />

how to weave the eyes without having to sew the<br />

almost vertical areas together, by wrapping the weft<br />

around the adjacent threads at the joins. The result<br />

was a much more subtle one.<br />

One of the next pieces was my Diploma piece, which<br />

had to be woven in a matter of weeks at the end of<br />

About the finishing technique; as I have said to some<br />

weavers who exclaimed “You'll have to tell us how to<br />

do that” my reply was “I could tell you but then I'd<br />

have to kill you”!<br />

Over the years, many weavers have experimented<br />

with new techniques and even invented some. I feel<br />

that if you set yourself the task of innovating<br />

something new you will succeed eventually and you<br />

will learn so much more about the medium that you<br />

are exploring.<br />

One of the first big pieces that I wove was a life-size<br />

shaped tapestry, called ‘Cool Bitch and Hot Dog’. The<br />

woman was wearing a fur coat as was the dog, but<br />

he was a Dalmatian.<br />

Marc Camille Chaimowicz Shaped 163 x 63 cms at its widest<br />

piece was simply woven, because of the time<br />

constraint and the figures were depicted from the<br />

neck down to the mid thigh.<br />

As usual I was thinking of how you can identify<br />

someone by their clothes. I wove a few shoulder<br />

pieces, mainly motorbike gear with lettering on them<br />

and tried to capture waxed cotton and green leather<br />

for the first time.<br />

Cool Bitch and Hot Dog detail<br />

I wove the figure on its side because of the problems<br />

of knotting on the strands of wool for her fur coat.<br />

At the time, a couple, Ritzi and Peter Jacobi who were<br />

well known Rumanian artists working in Germany,<br />

were visiting the <strong>Tapestry</strong> Department. I was about<br />

Connie and Norries’s Wedding clothes detail<br />

my final year. I had gone along to take pictures of a<br />

friend's wedding at the church door and ended up<br />

with some black and white photographs of the<br />

group, the bride and groom, and both sets of<br />

parents. There was scope to weave pattern; the<br />

groom's kilt and Lovat jacket and both of the fathers<br />

wearing pin stripe suits, which were different. The<br />

bride wore a beautiful Mexican pin-tucked dress. The<br />

I didn't weave much for a long time whilst I was<br />

teaching and it wasn't until 2000 that I wove two<br />

pieces in six weeks (the school holidays) for an<br />

Exhibition in Peebles with John Brennan. Weaving<br />

the images of my daughter and her partner had, of<br />

course, interesting challenges like torn denim and<br />

stripey socks.<br />

Later I wove more half figures, herringbone tweed,<br />

camel and sheepskin jackets. I even attempted a<br />

larger family group: a fur-fabric coat and striped silk<br />

dress as well as a very old mohair teddy were<br />

depicted. Weaving folds and stripes, and tonal<br />

changes kept things interesting.Single figures such<br />

as Young Joo and Marc Camille Chaimowicz, which I<br />

completed recently, are also shaped and I keep<br />

refining the technique each time. Weaving<br />

mercerized cotton and complicated checked<br />

trousers proved to be difficult<br />

My next piece is of my granddaughter and her very<br />

furry Ragdoll cat ‘Beyonce’.<br />

A candlewick dressing gown and mohair cat; what<br />

more can a weaver want to keep things interesting?<br />

Photos by Elizabeth Radcliffe<br />

Marc Camille Checked Trousers<br />

8 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 9


Here and Now<br />

Review of the <strong>Tapestry</strong> exhibition at NCCD, Sleaford.<br />

By Margaret Jones<br />

For those who have never visited the NCCD, the<br />

building was originally the old Hubbards and<br />

Philips Seed Warehouse which was refurbished<br />

into the current building in 2002 Originally called<br />

'The Hub' it is now the 'National Centre for Craft<br />

and Design' with an international reputation for<br />

the quality of its exhibitions, lectures and<br />

participatory learning programmes. As a venue,<br />

it is well lit and has an open feel enabling you to<br />

stand back and 'take in' the larger pieces. Some<br />

of the walls are not white which is a pleasant<br />

change from what has become the 'mandatory<br />

white cube' in so many galleries.<br />

'Here and Now' is an exhibition of tapestries by <strong>21</strong><br />

invited artists from across the world. The vision of<br />

Professor Lesley Millar and the NCCD, it contains a<br />

range of works from the representational to the<br />

abstract and includes small works as well as some up<br />

to 2.5 x 4.1 metres in size. The works reflect the<br />

various artists’ preoccupations with the current social<br />

and economic climate, the beauty and decay of our<br />

natural world and in all there is a focus on the<br />

processes of making.<br />

moments of human emotion.<br />

Two weavers approached the long debated question<br />

of how to exhibit smaller tapestries. Caron Penney<br />

chose more traditional frames whereas one of Jilly<br />

Edwards works was 52 small 'diary' pieces, each<br />

exhibited in a CD case and hung as a grid, four across<br />

and twelve high.<br />

Philip Sanderson has returned again to his image of<br />

a windblown tree, this time woven using strips of<br />

fabric and yarn twisted together in the weft on a<br />

warp sett of around 2epi. The resulting shaped<br />

tapestry has exceptional presence within the gallery<br />

but is also subtle in its execution. Pat Taylor's work is<br />

displayed as 9 panels, four are plain colours and five<br />

from Tallinn in Eastonia to Vilnium in Lithuania. She one of<br />

the five Japanese weavers in the exhibition, each of whom<br />

have their own very special aesthetic.<br />

I was not familiar with the work of several of these Japanese<br />

weavers and it is good to be able to see their tapestries in<br />

the flesh. In the case of Ayako Matsumura, this can be taken<br />

literally as she weaves images of bodies using yarn made<br />

from shredded animal skin (leather). Her explorations of<br />

skin as the interface between clothing and bodies is quite<br />

intimate and weaving the background in black polythene<br />

heightens the texture of the skin.<br />

Each of the tapestries and their weavers have a fascinating<br />

hinterland making this exhibition one not to be missed.<br />

This exhibition ran at the NCCD until 15th January but then<br />

is moving to The Holburne Museum, Bath from 24th June -<br />

1st October <strong>2017</strong> where I believe it may be slightly reduced<br />

due to space restrictions. So another chance for you to view<br />

this unique exhibition.<br />

All photos by P. Jones<br />

Some of the work is immediately recognizable, Erin<br />

Riley, Jilly Edwards and Caron Penney for example;<br />

there is no mistaking their unique style and content.<br />

Equally there is work that does not quite fit into the<br />

classic weft-faced tradition. Ieva Krumina from Latvia<br />

utilises digital print and applique onto the surface of<br />

the tapestry; a fascinating addition which can only be<br />

seen on very close inspection. Aino Kajaniemi, as<br />

many will know, uses a specialist technique which<br />

regularly leaves warps showing between the wefts.<br />

This produces an image with a lightness of touch;<br />

totally suitable for her depictions of fleeting<br />

are finely woven faces, in which she continues to<br />

exhibit her unerring use of colour.<br />

Ai Ito from Japan maintains the traditional narrative<br />

imagery in a large tapestry of mesmerising detail<br />

depicting the journey she took across Baltic Europe<br />

10 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group


The Long & Winding Road<br />

I have been captivated by constructed textiles from an early age and love that the simple<br />

interlacing of threads, in various sequences, can produce an array of different fabrics. I love the<br />

tactile qualities of yarn and the possibilities presented by the colours and textures available.<br />

Erosion 1. Hand dyed wool and viscose rayon<br />

I was introduced to weaving at 17 years of age after<br />

starting a course at a local college. My teacher,<br />

Joanne Breen, was passionate about the process of<br />

tapestry and had a very open, yet careful approach.<br />

I remember the first time I warped up on a simple<br />

frame and began to weave. The yarns were dull and<br />

coarse, yet instantly I began to understand that what<br />

was exciting about the technique was the ability to<br />

build not only texture, but imagery. We soon created<br />

our first finished piece, which I still have today. For<br />

me, it represents the starting point on the path I have<br />

taken with tapestry over the past 26 years. One which<br />

has led me to studying at The National College of Art<br />

& Design, Dublin, an exchange in Winchester School<br />

of Art, an influential residency with artist/weaver<br />

Regine Bartsch and the opportunity to exhibit widely.<br />

found, the process of erosion is stopped and it's<br />

surface no longer changes.<br />

As a result of observing such minute detail, the scale<br />

of my tapestries reduced. I had already worked at<br />

larger scales, but now I wanted to remain true to the<br />

precious hidden qualities and the fragmented nature<br />

of the objects. I began to explore miniature tapestry,<br />

irregularly shaped, almost at the size of the remnants<br />

I had been picking up and putting in my pocket. This<br />

was exciting and challenging. It demanded different<br />

approaches to my design development and also to<br />

the type of yarns I was using. I found a scale at which<br />

I loved working and I continue to work at it today.<br />

When evolving an idea I crop and enlarge areas of my<br />

drawings or photographs and further develop these<br />

through thumbnails, then finished designs,<br />

sometimes with mixed media or paper manipulation.<br />

I am constantly thinking about the techniques of<br />

tapestry and sometimes begin to sample, which<br />

drives the design forward. Ultimately this will<br />

become the cartoon.<br />

Fragment 1<br />

such as soumak and floats create texture where<br />

necessary. Eventually, I began to contrast the<br />

softness of the woven surface with various grounds.<br />

Firstly these were natural materials such as wood<br />

and slate, then ceramic. By using clay, I can apply<br />

mark-making to mirror the initial object and link this<br />

with the tapestry.<br />

Currently I am developing work which results from<br />

being part of an archaeological dig. As the trenches<br />

deepened, layers of soil revealed their densities and<br />

colours and presented many 'finds' such as bones,<br />

pottery, shells and tile fragments, all signifying traces<br />

of life and rituals of the past. This was fascinating<br />

and links directly to the idea that each object, like the<br />

ones I collect, has a story and a starting point and<br />

whether buried or exposed, has been been affected<br />

by the processes of time. This project is in the early<br />

stages, but I have acquired a collection of the 'finds'<br />

and am enjoying investigating them.<br />

Traces. Wool, linen, cotton, bamboo<br />

and paper yarn with stitch embellishment<br />

From the beginning, the processes of nature have<br />

had an influence on my work. Consistently, I have<br />

found a wealth of mark-making, pattern and colour<br />

on organic and synthetic surfaces affected by<br />

erosion. I find it fascinating that these are constantly<br />

transient. Initially, I looked closely at the tactile<br />

qualities of the objects. However, on investigating<br />

further through drawing and macro photography, I<br />

was struck by the myriad of colour and often<br />

jewel-like clusters present between the weathered<br />

layers. I wanted to pursue the idea of 'seeing the<br />

unseen'. Instantly I could envisage translating these<br />

qualities into the textile medium. I also became a bit<br />

of a magpie and collected fragments and objects to<br />

be observed in more detail back at the studio, a<br />

practice which continues to this day. Nonetheless,<br />

the environment to which each item belongs remains<br />

paramount, as it has shaped them into what I find<br />

beautiful and intriguing. I also like the idea that in<br />

recording an object or removing it from where it's<br />

Erosion 2. Hand dyed wool and viscose rayon<br />

One of the key elements of tapestry I have always<br />

adored is colour blending. The varied palettes of<br />

peeling paint, worn driftwood, tarnished metals,<br />

bleached bones, sea-softened stones and broken<br />

rocks constantly provide the perfect source. When<br />

working small, I use a combination of fine yarns,<br />

often hand-dyed to achieve desired colours. I have<br />

also found shimmering qualities within the objects.<br />

To interpret them, I use metallic yarns or viscose<br />

rayon, which dyes beautifully. These are coupled with<br />

wools or linens to create a play of light-absorbent<br />

and light-reflective areas within the work. The sett of<br />

the warp is also quite dense, using fine yarn, and<br />

allows me to build the detail required. Techniques<br />

Le Jour Sacre. Hand dyed wool, cotton, linen and viscose rayon.<br />

Reflecting on my tapestry practice, I feel I'm only<br />

partway down the road. I also teach at Ballyfermot<br />

College of Further Education where I first learned to<br />

weave and I revel in passing on what was taught to<br />

me. I enjoy every step of the weaving process and<br />

am excited about where it will take me in the future.<br />

I work also with knitting, crochet, stitch and<br />

loom-weaving. However, I remain a tapestry weaver<br />

and the road I have taken with it has been long and<br />

definitely winding, veering off to focus my<br />

concentration in other areas at times. This said, no<br />

matter what else I am doing, there is always one<br />

constant, a tapestry on the frame.<br />

Louise Broughton<br />

www.louiseboughton.wordpress.com<br />

Also on Etsy: A Textile Trove<br />

Images by Louise Broughton<br />

12 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 13


<strong>Weaver</strong>’s Profile<br />

By Marilyn Eustice<br />

My Favourite Weaving until the Next One!<br />

By Eleonora Budden<br />

Nobody was more surprised than I was when my tapestry weaving was accepted for the Cordis Showcase.<br />

At first I assumed that if my weaving, ‘Don’t Speak Of It’, was accepted, then the exhibition couldn’t be as<br />

prestigious as others were making out. Confidence plays a large part in any creative activity and often<br />

we need the right kind of support before we can reach our potential. On the other hand, once you become<br />

seriously involved, it is surprising what you can achieve in a short time.<br />

I am a newcomer to the art of tapestry. In my younger days I made jewellery in Buenos Aires,<br />

my birthplace, and in Ibiza and London for a while. Then I went to college, graduating in<br />

computer science, later specialising in Human Computer Interaction. After retiring I explored<br />

several forms of textile crafts, discovering tapestry weaving only three years ago.<br />

My journey to be a tapestry weaver has taken a long<br />

time. I learned to weave cloth at college in the sixties,<br />

but not all private houses have space for a floor loom<br />

and so, for several years, I was busy drawing and<br />

potting instead. I came back to cloth weaving when we<br />

moved to a house big enough to install a loom and<br />

continued to make floor rugs and silk scarves.<br />

years ago I signed up for a workshop to learn the basic<br />

techniques of tapestry weaving and suddenly I was<br />

fired up.<br />

To do anything properly, you have to learn the rules,<br />

even if you break them later. Over the last three years<br />

I have attended a number of workshops, where I have<br />

been inspired by mixing with other enthusiasts and<br />

now I have reached a point where I can’t sleep because<br />

so many ideas are racing though my head.<br />

I had been weaving about a year when I started on<br />

the parrots. I was looking for something with lots of<br />

colour to brighten up the winter days. I think I typed<br />

into Google something like ‘colourful birds’ and there<br />

were hundreds of inspiring ideas. I was fascinated by<br />

an image of thirteen parrots sitting on a wire, their<br />

reflections clearly visible in the water below.<br />

I knew it would be hard, so decided to start on<br />

another image of just two cuddling up to each other,<br />

which is why I wove them tufted. I used Ghiordes<br />

knots over single warps to obtain fine colour<br />

changes. For the beaks I used supplementary warps<br />

and the feet were constructed using leather and<br />

fabric (twined) with cotton whipping for the claws. It<br />

was great fun doing “Birds of a Feather” over the<br />

winter months and when spring came along I was<br />

ready to embark on the thirteen.<br />

Parrots on Parade<br />

parrots perched on a twig straight up. The ripples<br />

didn’t work however I tried so decided to weave it all<br />

from the side and concentrate on the reflection.<br />

Dont Speak Of It<br />

I had met Jane Brunning at a pottery class and our<br />

mutual interest in weaving, hers particularly in tapestry<br />

weaving, awakened my interest in the subject,<br />

although I continued to weave cloth for some time. The<br />

idea of spending so much time on one piece of work<br />

when I could paint it instead did not fit in with my<br />

impatient temperament!<br />

Jane and I began to meet regularly; she pursuing<br />

tapestry while I was still concentrating on cloth. I began<br />

to see the amazing diversity of tapestry weaving so I<br />

started tentatively to experiment with ideas, thinking<br />

that I knew enough from cloth weaving to be successful<br />

in the new discipline. I dabbled for several years, with<br />

cloth weaving still my main creative outlet, then three<br />

I tend more towards abstract designs, often taken from<br />

nature, and weave on frames in ‘a room of my own’. I<br />

even forget to eat sometimes and, although I still find<br />

it very slow, I have learned to love the endless problem<br />

solving to make a piece work. My piece for the Cordis<br />

Showcase ‘Don’t Speak Of It, is a bit out of my comfort<br />

zone. It is taken from a line drawing I made on my iPad,<br />

using a minimal black line on a white background to<br />

give an emotional impact. Not so simple to weave, of<br />

course, as mistakes become very obvious. But at the<br />

age of 69 I have, at last, found my true vocation.<br />

Images courtesy of Marilyn Eustice<br />

Making Ends Meet<br />

Parrot Practice<br />

Firstly, I needed to work out how to approach the<br />

weaving, straight up or sideways? My first task was<br />

to weave a sampler and experiment. I wove a parrot<br />

on its side, using soumak for the plumage. I quickly<br />

learned that this really needs to be laid on thickly and<br />

after weaving just a few passes above, I saw my<br />

parrot was just a little bit too skinny!<br />

However, the problem I was really having were with<br />

the ripples in the water. I tried weaving straight up,<br />

sideways, any-which-way, whilst weaving three<br />

Finally I embarked on the ‘thirteen’, which I now call<br />

“Parrots on Parade”. I was going to use a length of<br />

thin wooden dowel for the perch. Fortunately at the<br />

very last minute I had a brainwave and used clothesline<br />

instead which, being flexible, was easier to<br />

manipulate whilst weaving with it in place. It is simply<br />

held by a stitch at the very bottom and, thereafter, by<br />

the claws of the parrots facing forwards and the<br />

bodies of the others. I used cartoons for the parrots,<br />

but only drew each on as I was going along. The<br />

foliage was improvised hatching, a technique I could<br />

do forever, as it feels so much like painting. Once<br />

finished I loved the sampler almost as much as the<br />

thirteen, so I decided to frame it and called it ‘Parrot<br />

Practice’ because that is what I was doing, practicing<br />

parrots.<br />

Now, some time has passed and I have had more<br />

than one favourite along the way, but that is another<br />

story - or should I say stories?<br />

Images by Eleonora Budden<br />

14 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 15


‘ . . . supporting those who are<br />

starting on their weaving journey . . . ’<br />

The quote above is from the British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group home page. The group makes room for<br />

tapestry weavers on a spectrum from professional to home based beginners, showcasing and<br />

honoring that spectrum fully. This keeps tapestry accessible. It makes space for expression<br />

made from a skill set producing beauty and clarity that may include, but not be solely restricted<br />

to, the fine arts. These community resources support my passion to create tapestries that are<br />

place based, that belong where they have grown. To accomplish this, I need communities of<br />

fiber art sharing, because place is community and community is place.<br />

shapes and curves. I am now sampling for how to<br />

reproduce the basic composition of my original Tree<br />

Song piece with a more subtle color shift through four<br />

seasons, across four panels, as a background to the<br />

simple, geometrical tree shape.<br />

The sampling process has been invaluable. It has helped<br />

me make choices about composition and color shifts<br />

that a sketch alone could not have clarified. It has also<br />

enabled me to practice interlock techniques, rather than<br />

sewn slits. This will make it possible for me to weave the<br />

long, tall, straight line of the tree trunk while maintaining<br />

the fabric integrity of the piece as a whole. That will be<br />

helpful through out the weaving of four panels. Viewing<br />

the gallery on the British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group web site, and<br />

visiting artist statements and blogs linked there has been<br />

wonderful guidance through this process.<br />

As an ecopsychologist, this sense of community and<br />

place is indistinguishable from my home eco region. A<br />

region that extends into other regions, creating a web<br />

of life that covers our entire planet. This is an abiding<br />

gift and well worth the time taken to weave a response<br />

to the beauty of interconnected survival. Yet how can I<br />

possibly express something so large and complex, given<br />

my skills as a beginner and the difficulty of the tapestry<br />

medium itself?<br />

First, there is the learning. Jane Hoffman and Rebecca<br />

Mezoff have very kindly been available to me as<br />

tapestry teachers. Jane’s dedication to weaving<br />

tapestries with handspun, vegetal dyed yarns, depicting<br />

at-risk flora and fauna around her mountain home, was<br />

an incredible model for my early learning in tapestry.<br />

Rebecca has been a model for me in that tapestry can<br />

be a means of weaving a shared social fabric, reflecting<br />

life’s passages and potential for fruition. These<br />

passages and potentials are often impossible to<br />

understand and share using only words. But tapestry<br />

images, woven moment-by-moment into cloth and<br />

then shared within a community, can convey their<br />

deeper meanings and relevance to our daily lives.<br />

My current piece in progress is called Tree Song. It is an<br />

attempt to express my kinship with two pine trees. One<br />

that I loved and visited daily at my home in<br />

Massachusetts, and one that I now visit daily on my<br />

walks in California. Each tree stands still through<br />

seasons and time. Each is both a biological, place-based<br />

life form – and each is a vivid manifestation of sound<br />

and light waves, made of particulate atoms that arose<br />

at the moment our universe was created. These atoms<br />

move both in and out of my body, and through and<br />

around each tree daily.<br />

I would like to use my basic design skills, yarn choices<br />

and color gradation shifts to express the presence and<br />

flow of our shared life foundations in tree form. I am<br />

doing so in this current tapestry using the basic<br />

template of a tapestry I wove when I lived on my farm<br />

in Massachusetts.<br />

Wool from our sheep, locally spun and dyed with<br />

walnut was woven into the tree trunk. Regionally dyed,<br />

16 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

Pine Tree<br />

mill spun yarns were used for the background, base<br />

and branches. I have grown as a weaver since this<br />

tapestry. But I still hold a commitment about the fibers<br />

I choose to weave into a tapestry.<br />

Being a former shepherdess, yarn designer/dyer and<br />

custom handweaver of organic rugs, shawls and<br />

blankets, it is important to me that yarn is suitable for<br />

the task I am asking it to perform. It is also important<br />

to me that the yarn I use has a sense of provenance, a<br />

sense of vibrance, zest and liveliness. Over the years of<br />

growing and working with fiber, I have learned to look<br />

for that sense of a fiber being alive and reflective of<br />

light.<br />

Rebecca’s three basic course levels taught me to<br />

integrate this sense of yarn provenance with tapestry<br />

design to balance color transitions with geometric<br />

Birch Kin<br />

Tree Song Sampler<br />

This piece will be a real adventure in tapestry weaving;<br />

four panels, plenty of color blending, and plenty of<br />

juggling shape and shading. I am grateful that even<br />

though my work will not be a work of fine art or<br />

demonstrate advanced skill in the weaving lexicon, there<br />

is a still a place where my expression can be shared and<br />

received as a form of communication. Our shared fibers<br />

of meaning and survival are well worth this effort.<br />

Leslie Whitcomb, Ph.D.<br />

Leslie has been a weaver, spinner and dyer for thirty-five<br />

years. She is expanding her experience as a shepherdess,<br />

yarn designer and custom handweaver into study and<br />

expression as a tapestry weaver. Leslie lectures in courses<br />

on the Nature of Fiber Art and Human Development in<br />

Applied Ecopsychology through Portland State University<br />

/Project Nature Connect departments of Education and<br />

Organic Psychology.<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 17


Making an Exhibition of Ourselves<br />

There comes a time for all of us when we reach under the bed and pull out our latest work for show<br />

to the general public. We've got past the mumbled “Erm, what is it?” from our nearest and dearest<br />

and we are going to show the wider public what we've made. Exhibiting work is a necessary stage in<br />

“becoming an artist” and is often rewarding, but in my experience exhibiting, something people were<br />

really not expecting to do, requires the hide of a rhinoceros. For every “Ooh tapestry!” at the Knitting<br />

and Stitching Show, there will be at least one “you knitted that” and several “my wife sews tapestries”<br />

in the local gallery.<br />

a 20 mile radius of the gallery must have no merit.<br />

Somehow, living in another county makes you highly<br />

talented. Obviously though, they have never been to<br />

Ipswich.<br />

Your rhinoceros hide will be needed to deal with the<br />

inevitable regular rejections and some comments.<br />

“Well, it's not art like you do David. This is more like<br />

sewing,” was a particular favourite. One man, on<br />

looking at my tapestry, informed me that I could have<br />

painted it. I replied that he hadn't seen my painting!<br />

Many people are genuinely baffled about why we<br />

bother. In our modern world the idea of spending<br />

extended periods of time simply making something is<br />

alien. However, by the end of my stewarding shift at<br />

least one person will go home knowing what tapestry<br />

is and why anyone would want to bother. One down,<br />

62 million to go!<br />

Celebrity<br />

to the shop is usually limited to printed cards with<br />

images of my tapestries. Each year I have three or four<br />

new sets of cards printed with my latest, most<br />

photogenic, pieces and this has become a staple part<br />

of my income. We also boost group funds by selling<br />

packs of colour related “leftovers” from our various<br />

crafts. This is how I discovered that to embroiderers and<br />

felters my colour-blended fine wool bobbin leftovers<br />

are catnip. I bag up scraps in the same colour group and<br />

they go like hot cakes.<br />

Mermaids<br />

Being the only exhibiting tapestry weaver locally I<br />

normally share space with other textile artists. We share<br />

the organisation and cost of public exhibitions. As a<br />

group we can afford to rent local galleries, the numbers<br />

of which are in constant decline. Also, as a group we are<br />

able to manage the stewarding and setup duties<br />

necessary to welcome the visiting public and, hopefully,<br />

make sales. The gallery we use is one we have used for<br />

several years and we book our slot a year in advance.<br />

Costs include a hire charge of £430 per week plus<br />

commission on sales, VAT on the commission, an<br />

additional bank charge for credit/debit card sales, plus<br />

VAT on that as well. On top of this we pay for printing of<br />

posters and leaflets plus some limited advertising. For<br />

two weeks between 20 people, this works out at around<br />

£50 per person with enough space for each member to<br />

display three or four pieces, depending on size.<br />

On the plus side, the gallery we use is part of a much<br />

larger concert, shopping and exhibition venue which is<br />

a considerable tourist attraction in Suffolk, so we are<br />

guaranteed a certain footfall on top of what we can<br />

attract with our advertising and repeat visitors. Staying<br />

in the same place at the same time for consecutive<br />

years does gain you a growing, loyal following of those<br />

Cool Waters<br />

people who genuinely enjoy your work, one of the most<br />

rewarding aspects of the whole exercise. In an effort to<br />

recoup our individual costs, we also have a “shop”<br />

selling smaller value hand-made items. My contribution<br />

Sales from the wall have steadily fallen in recent years,<br />

but we still usually manage to sell a few exhibition<br />

pieces. It is up to each individual to decide why they<br />

exhibit. It is often the first time you get a proper look at<br />

your own work, from any distance. For most of us,<br />

exhibiting is a necessary part of making. We are all<br />

Makers who want to show people our work. It is our art.<br />

You don't make art for yourself. Art is for sharing, and<br />

as I have already explained there are costs involved so<br />

you have to weigh up the pros and cons. Sharing the<br />

risks and the work is a great way to get started.<br />

The fun side of exhibiting of course is introducing the<br />

public to your way of making and introducing yourself<br />

to the public in return. I have observed a number of<br />

different types of visitors. Some will get to the top of the<br />

stairs, poke their head in the doorway, look horrified<br />

and run straight back down the stairs. I refer to them<br />

as the “runners”. Others will step through the door<br />

before realising their mistake. Having stepped into the<br />

room, they obviously feel that they cannot turn around<br />

and walk out again, so instead they do a tight circle of<br />

the room at a walking pace before swiftly exiting. They<br />

are the “spinners”. Some visitors come specially to see<br />

our work but many are accidental tourists who wander<br />

in, look surprised and end up staying for an hour.<br />

Having exhibited locally, why not enter into national and<br />

international exhibitions? I often find it easier to get into<br />

an exhibition in Ukraine than one in Ipswich. I think it is<br />

a function of the art world that anyone who lives within<br />

Biography<br />

Liz Chester learned to weave tapestry at the age of 15 with the<br />

Lyth <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong>s in Caithness, Scotland. After a 26 year<br />

detour into engineering Liz became a full-time tapestry weaver<br />

after taking redundancy from paid employment in 2008. She<br />

exhibits locally, nationally and occasionally internationally.<br />

www.elizabethchester.co.uk<br />

Photography by Liz Chester<br />

Storm Surge<br />

18 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 19


The company I (like to) keep<br />

Since the mid 80’s, when I enrolled in my first short tapestry weaving course at the Australian<br />

<strong>Tapestry</strong> Workshop, each time I completed another course I determined to continue and make a<br />

success of weaving. Instead I accumulated equipment, books, yarn, subscriptions and unrealised<br />

ambitions.<br />

Cup rendering. Minton cup rendered in markers and gold paint.<br />

When I turned 50 I realised I had better get started<br />

before I missed my chance. I enrolled in the RMIT<br />

Diploma of Textile Design and Development, which<br />

included tapestry weaving. The class structure,<br />

assignment deadlines and guidance of the lecturer,<br />

Joy Smith, led to the production of the sort of work I<br />

had been aiming for. In my final year tapestry<br />

weaving was taken off the curriculum, but by then I<br />

had met a nucleus of women with a common<br />

passion. We formed a group that has grown in<br />

number and now meets monthly at the<br />

Handweavers and Spinners Guild of Victoria in<br />

Melbourne.<br />

This group has had a significant influence on my<br />

work and outlook. I enjoy working alone but also<br />

need to mix with like-minded people to bounce ideas<br />

off. Being part of the group has expanded my skills<br />

– not just in weaving. We share ideas, techniques<br />

and inspiration, occasionally visit exhibitions, and<br />

there is lots of encouragement and friendly peer<br />

pressure. Apart from our own work, members<br />

participate in the annual AuNZ tapestry challenge<br />

and the biennial Wangaratta Contemporary Textile<br />

Award.<br />

Recently a group of us exhibited in The Johnston<br />

Collection Christmas Exhibition. It was an exciting<br />

process – we toured the collection for possible items<br />

as our group’s inspiration, finally choosing a set of<br />

India Company paintings that had been very special<br />

to Johnston. To unify our pieces we selected a colour<br />

palette from the ATW colour range, guided by the<br />

colours used in the paintings. Themes, concepts and<br />

designs were discussed and refined.<br />

My design concept was based on the small,<br />

decorative, circa 1811 Minton teacup that is credited<br />

for starting the eight-year-old Johnston on his<br />

lifelong journey of collecting. Using levels of focus to<br />

represent the growing awareness of his love of<br />

collecting, I decided to weave three tapestries; the<br />

first was made up of abstract blocks of colour to give<br />

an ‘out of focus’ impression, the second and third<br />

tapestries to be more detailed, with smaller blocks<br />

revealing the cup as if it were gradually coming into<br />

focus.<br />

I rendered the cup using markers and gold paint and<br />

then manipulated the image in Photoshop so it was<br />

pixelated to different levels of detail. The idea of<br />

weaving blocks of colour seemed easy but was to<br />

prove incredibly painstaking. Firstly, each block had<br />

to be assigned a colour and tone from within our<br />

chosen palette, which was more limited and, in some<br />

Pixelated images Photoshop manipulated images.<br />

Three chosen from eight possible levels.<br />

Tapestries one and two finished and ready to be cut off.<br />

cases, different to the colours on the cup. The colour<br />

codes were noted on the cartoon grid, and metre<br />

length bundles of weft of each colour prepared.<br />

Weaving test samples helped to work out the<br />

number of warps and lines of weft required to both<br />

match the grid and ensure the blocks would be<br />

square. The first two tapestries used 12/9 cotton<br />

seine twine with four weft threads and wove quite<br />

quickly. Unfortunately I made the mistake of cutting<br />

off before sewing the many slits. Horrors – they fell<br />

into strips of weaving, required a huge amount of<br />

sewing and resulted in the final pieces looking a bit<br />

like a pebbled path. At this point I decided that all<br />

three would be framed, trusting that the mounting<br />

would help hold them together.<br />

As all were to be the same finished size, the third<br />

tapestry used a finer warp (20/6), with three warp<br />

threads to get the increase in detail. More blocks<br />

meant more slits and sewing – what to do? I finally<br />

remembered a technique<br />

I had heard about and<br />

went with it - between<br />

every row of blocks I wove<br />

a full pass with cotton<br />

thread. This method still<br />

required some stitching<br />

but the fabric of the piece<br />

itself held together.<br />

I used ATW wool weft (they<br />

have their own dye house<br />

and the standard range is<br />

around 370 colours), and<br />

some Irish linen thread to<br />

get the glossy pure white I<br />

needed. Two of the<br />

tapestries also included<br />

blocks woven with gold<br />

silk to hint at the gilt on<br />

the rim.<br />

Meanwhile, members<br />

were posting photos of<br />

their finished pieces and<br />

finalising mounting and<br />

display methods. The<br />

deadline was drawing<br />

closer and every moment<br />

I had was spent on<br />

weaving rows and rows of tiny blocks. Finally, mounted<br />

and framed (without glass), they were delivered to<br />

the exhibition. Our works were hung in one room,<br />

amongst the items that we had chosen for<br />

inspiration, including the Minton teacup. It was<br />

exhilarating to see all the works together and see the<br />

results of all those hours finally hanging on the wall.<br />

I learnt so much while producing these tapestries,<br />

and being part of the group is what made it possible.<br />

The encouragement, support and bond we shared<br />

have made the process all the more interesting and<br />

satisfying. It’s said that you are as good the company<br />

you keep, well I’m not that good yet – but I’m working<br />

on it – finally!<br />

Heather Smith<br />

Photographs courtesy of Heather Smith<br />

20 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | <strong>21</strong>


Knotted <strong>Tapestry</strong><br />

A course with Anne Jackson<br />

Working ona a 3D sample<br />

Solway <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong>s<br />

Exhibition at Lochthorn Library, Dumfries<br />

West Dean is a key centre for tapestry weaving in the UK and alongside its tapestry studio the college<br />

offers short courses in tapestry weaving. As part of its programme in 2016 the college offered a course by<br />

Anne Jackson. Anne participates in the European <strong>Tapestry</strong> Network’s Artapestry exhibition work, and<br />

exhibits her work internationally.<br />

The course was structured to teach us how to set up<br />

the warp threads and how to knot. The technique is<br />

based on double half hitches and allows the maker<br />

to add warps or knot warps which together can take<br />

the work into shaped outlines or 3D forms. We<br />

knotted to our hearts delight, some trying raffia or<br />

nettle yarn and others having a go at creating<br />

bulging shapes. There was a general atmosphere of<br />

concentrated learning and experimentation in the<br />

class, and combined with the short talks of people’s<br />

work there was much to learn and understand.<br />

Display Case<br />

For the course Anne brought examples of her work,<br />

small works based on her interest in early witch<br />

persecutions and samples from previous<br />

commissions such her work for the Eden Project,<br />

Leaving Eden. Her work has some similarity in<br />

appearance to woven tapestries, however when you<br />

feel the work it has a very robust structure, densely<br />

held together by weft knots that are tied tightly over<br />

warp thread. The yarn used in the weft consists of<br />

smooth, strong non-elastic yarns in cotton, silk and<br />

linen – I didn’t see any wool used, although I did try<br />

some in my own sample. The knotted structure leads<br />

to a sort of ridged surface and you can blend colours<br />

to create tonal changes or visual differentiation<br />

across the surface of the work.<br />

There were eight students on the course,( a majority<br />

BTG members), all experienced textile practitioners,<br />

and everyone had some, if not substantial<br />

knowledge, of tapestry weaving. We were asked us<br />

to prepare a little presentation about ourselves and<br />

our work, while Anne shared generously of her<br />

experience of historical research, interests in the<br />

tapestry world and her wider interests in music.<br />

22 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

Anne’s samples for us to study<br />

My sample in progress. Working over primary drawing.<br />

For me the best parts of the course were the talks.<br />

We could quietly sit and knot while listening to each<br />

other’s narratives of long careers in tapestry, design<br />

explorations and questions of future work. When<br />

you are a student at West Dean it is worth taking<br />

excursion to other classes to see what is going on,<br />

and the general feeling of useful toil pervades<br />

everything. With samples of knotted bits, work in<br />

progress and impressions from Anne’s and other<br />

students’ work I went home with many ideas and<br />

plans for things to come.<br />

Lorna C Goldsmith<br />

Photographs by Eleonora Budden<br />

Our group is thriving despite some wax and<br />

wane. 2016 started with a growth in numbers<br />

necessitating a move to Lochthorn Library. We<br />

settled happily into a spacious and well-lit room<br />

with our looms/frames, yarns and ideas. Rita<br />

Corbett, our founder, inspires and encourages<br />

us, Gwyn (who travels from Cumbria) is another<br />

accomplished and experienced weaver and also<br />

Katie Russell, when she has<br />

time in her busy schedule to<br />

be with us.<br />

So we are nudged to learn<br />

new techniques and develop<br />

different skills. Rita, realising<br />

how scared some were when<br />

“design “was mentioned,<br />

decided to share some of the<br />

basic skills she had found<br />

useful in developing ideas or<br />

whether or not an image<br />

would translate into a<br />

weaving. A number of<br />

members diligently followed<br />

her beginners’ design<br />

workshops, did their homework<br />

and felt that they had benefitted. As the year<br />

progressed busy lives claimed some members but<br />

we still have twelve members keen to continue.<br />

Weaving is certainly a seductive activity; the calm<br />

repetition of passing weft through warp, the feel of<br />

the yarn, combining colours, building shapes,<br />

producing images and textures.<br />

Our Exhibition<br />

Our year culminated in a small exhibition in the<br />

library, partly to show “what those women are doing<br />

in that room with frames and yarns on the first Friday<br />

of every month” and partly to help library staff<br />

show that they are catering for community activities<br />

in the ongoing effort to keep libraries open. The staff<br />

were keen and offered boards next to the library<br />

desk where everyone coming in would see the work.<br />

We were also offered the use of<br />

display cases; hence our December<br />

meeting was taken up with<br />

mounting the exhibition with<br />

some tapestries that were the<br />

result of the design workshops<br />

and others woven in the course<br />

of the year.<br />

Our display case contained a<br />

frame with partly woven<br />

sunflowers and included a<br />

cartoon to show how the weaver<br />

works to her design. Tools of the<br />

trade were also displayed with<br />

samples of different techniques,<br />

for example, colour-blending.<br />

Our display demonstrated a<br />

range of subjects and techniques and was well<br />

received. We enjoyed it as well.<br />

Pat Stonell<br />

Photos by Katie Russell<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 23


A Sense of Place<br />

Drawing and Weaving in Turkey 2016<br />

By Christine Paine<br />

Since visiting Istanbul in 2013 I wanted to return to Turkey to see more of the country and its rich<br />

textile culture. The opportunity arose when Jane Brunning and Louise Martin put together a week’s<br />

program of drawing and master-class weaving in Southern Turkey at the end of September, 2016,<br />

called A Sense of Place.<br />

textile fairs. He kindly offered to show us examples<br />

of kilim motifs and techniques. We spent a fascinating<br />

afternoon as he pulled out rug after rug from his<br />

collection, showing us the different techniques and<br />

motifs - explaining their meanings such as the<br />

spider, the woman with hands on hips and borders<br />

related to lovers’ quarrels. The “wayward women”<br />

carpets. Motifs are used to tell the stories of their<br />

weavers and the traditions are passed down from<br />

one generation to the next. Turkish rural life & the<br />

symbols on the rugs – the usual concerns of country<br />

people everywhere – prosperity, safety from danger,<br />

marriage, fidelity, loyalty, mountains and rivers,<br />

animals and birds.<br />

pomegranates. In the beginning I needed the mirror<br />

to see what I was doing, but later I got into the<br />

rhythm and could sense where to turn and lock and<br />

pass. There were many shady places to sit and work<br />

and my view for this project was the mountains, the<br />

blue sky and the pomegranate trees.<br />

I felt like a rug weaver with my yarns hanging from<br />

the loom. All in all it was a most stimulating and<br />

enjoyable week which also included drawing at the<br />

local Lycian rock cut tombs of Kaunos, mud baths<br />

and an evening boat trip across the lake to see the<br />

stars.<br />

At ORUC Carpets<br />

Thirteen of us travelled from every part of the U.K.<br />

to our location for the week - Spectrum Yoga, a short<br />

walk from the bustling town of Dalyan. We included<br />

beginners, experienced weavers, a watercolourist<br />

(who converted to weaving), a bead-maker who<br />

excitedly translated traditional kilim motifs into<br />

beading patterns and a husband. We were here to<br />

learn about kilims, the flat woven carpets and rugs<br />

of Turkey.<br />

A Sense of Place is summed up as a tranquil space,<br />

blue skies and sunshine. Pomegranate trees bearing<br />

rich orange-red fruit lined the paths. Our work space<br />

was the shady yoga shala (a Sanskrit word meaning,<br />

"home or abode"). Although this is my story, I<br />

collected comments from everyone so it is for all of<br />

us (comments from others are in italics). Days were<br />

organised with two hours of themed drawing<br />

sessions in the mornings – always fun and sometime<br />

messy – quick, organic and freeing with different<br />

media each day! Simple, yet effective drawing<br />

challenges provided a wealth of ideas. These were<br />

followed by the weaving master class with a different<br />

kilim technique each day. Design exercises kickstarting<br />

imagination. Ancient techniques update.<br />

To give us context, Jane and Louise contacted<br />

Ramazan Oruc of Oruc carpets in Dalyan. An expert<br />

in Turkish rugs, he has, over the past 30 years, visited<br />

the UK to do restoration work for the V&A museum<br />

in London amongst others and to exhibit at the HALI<br />

We carefully examined both front and back,<br />

examples of vertical and diagonal slits, outlining,<br />

dovetailing, double interlock, soumak and jijim<br />

techniques in rugs, salt bags and tent hangings. We<br />

were surprised that so many were woven from the<br />

back with long floats and complex patterns. Some<br />

rugs were well worn and we could see and feel their<br />

family histories. We were under no obligation to buy<br />

but some of the carpets did make their way back to<br />

the UK.<br />

Weaving Kelim Slits<br />

Even with naturally dyed colours available, vibrant<br />

pink and violet colours may be woven in to part of<br />

the carpet to protect against evil spirits along with a<br />

secret name, either the weaver or a loved one. The<br />

Christine Paine weaving double interlock sample from the back<br />

patterns and techniques are learnt as part of growing<br />

up. A daughter had a greater chance of marrying if<br />

she was a skilled weaver and would offer carpets as<br />

part of her dowry to her future husband. She would<br />

take great care in the dyeing and hand-spinning of<br />

wool and in the selection of designs and motifs, some<br />

of which were related to her daily life and tribal<br />

culture.<br />

After seeing such wonderful examples of carpets we<br />

worked on our own techniques. Lines made on<br />

postcards from the drawing exercise led to a group<br />

project weaving the lines as slits in a Turkish kilim. It<br />

was a personal way of making marks and interpreting<br />

a traditional technique in a modern way.<br />

After completing my slit weave sample, I set myself<br />

the challenge of weaving one of my designs for a<br />

weaver’s mark inspired by traditional symbols and<br />

using the double interlock method. I had never<br />

successfully understood or mastered this technique<br />

and it does give such a beautiful surface with no slits!<br />

Following my own design was much more exciting<br />

than trying to make up a technical exercise on the fly.<br />

The exercises we have done to open the doors to<br />

creativity are beautifully juxtaposed with the regularity<br />

of the motifs. Women were judged on the quality of<br />

their weaving dowry so I’m not sure if my attempts at<br />

double interlock would have got me a husband! I<br />

used the colours from the sky and the<br />

Christine Paine’s finished double Interlock sample<br />

I will end with a couple of weaverly comments: Louise<br />

and Jane interlock and dovetail well, half-hitching and<br />

keeping an eye on your sheds. And finally from our<br />

newest weaver: Never at a loose thread!<br />

For more information on the place and the people<br />

mentioned:<br />

www.spectrumturkey.co.uk<br />

www.dalyancarpets.com<br />

www.louisemartintapestry.com<br />

www.janebrunningtapestry.co.uk<br />

Christine Paine<br />

http://www.thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk/artist/<br />

christine-paine/<br />

24 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />

British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 25


A Chance Encounter<br />

Discovering tapestry weaving through Anni Albers<br />

By Sarah McLean<br />

<strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong><br />

Free to BTG members<br />

£7.50 to non-members<br />

Membership Fees<br />

1st April <strong>2017</strong><br />

UK individual £35<br />

UK Student £20<br />

UK Associate £25<br />

UK Associate Group £45<br />

EU/Rest of the World £40<br />

Advertising Rates<br />

BTG aims to produce two issues print and digital a<br />

year. <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong> is free to BTG members and<br />

any surplus print copies may be sold at BTG<br />

exhibitions and other events around the UK.<br />

South of the Border, American. Artist: Anni Albers, 1958, Cotton, wool. 4 1/8 x 15 1/4 in. (10.5 x 38.7 cm.)<br />

The Baltimore Museum of Art: Decorative Arts Fund, and Contemporary Crafts Fund, BMA 1959.91<br />

A complimentary copy is sent to advertisers (who are<br />

Not BTG members) advertising in the current issue.<br />

For more information about placing an advert and for<br />

current rates contact:<br />

advertising@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />

On the road leading down from Brighton station<br />

to the sea there used to be a huge secondhand<br />

bookshop. It was there I found a lavishly<br />

illustrated book about Anni Albers and was<br />

immediately captivated by her pictorial<br />

weavings.<br />

One, which I particularly liked, was called ‘South of<br />

the Border’. The colours woven into it were bright<br />

pinks, oranges and yellows, conjuring up heat and<br />

light, set off by light blue. The arrangement of<br />

colours suggested a landscape, perhaps with<br />

buildings. The twists of thicker wool could be trees.<br />

The whole piece had a rhythm set up by groups of<br />

four black vertical lines and also thicker orange<br />

vertical lines which appear and disappear<br />

throughout the piece. These were, I now realise, the<br />

warps showing through the weft. For such a small<br />

piece, 10.6 x 38.7 cm it was very complex. This<br />

fascinating book made me want to find out more.<br />

Although the name Albers was familiar, her husband<br />

was Josef Albers (he of the colour squares), I had not<br />

realised that Anni also had a long and varied career<br />

after her days at the Bauhaus. She initially started<br />

weaving as this was the only option open for women<br />

at the Bauhaus.<br />

After the Bauhaus was shut down in 1933, Josef and<br />

Anni went to teach art and weaving at a new<br />

experimental college, Black Mountain College in<br />

North Carolina, USA. From here they made many<br />

trips to Mexico to see the art and ancient<br />

architecture.<br />

In the early 1940s Anni started to make small-scale<br />

weavings as well as being a teacher, lecturer and<br />

writer. Her most well known book is called ‘On<br />

Weaving’.<br />

In the 1950’s Anni worked with the manufacturer<br />

Knoll on upholstery textiles while also making most<br />

of her pictorial weavings. Some of these were large<br />

scale such as two commissions for synagogues.<br />

These are beautiful in golds, whites and blacks. In<br />

1970, when she was 71, she gave up weaving “I could<br />

not stand the idea anymore of all the yarns and<br />

looms. It took too long.” So she took up printmaking<br />

and etching, she died aged 95 in 1994.<br />

Well from that encounter I initially wove rugs, quicker<br />

and more practical. Gradually tapestry weaving has<br />

taken over but I often look again at those illustrations<br />

of her weavings. These tapestries, poised<br />

between pictorial and abstract, emerge out of her<br />

in-depth knowledge of ancient and modern,<br />

weaving into the techniques which could not be<br />

created in another medium.<br />

‘South of the Border’ is owned by the Baltimore<br />

Museum of Art who kindly waived their fee for<br />

reproduction. Look on the internet to see other<br />

examples of her work to understand why she made<br />

such an impact on me and my weaving journey.<br />

Permission kindly given by Albers Organisation to<br />

use image.<br />

Photography By: Mitro Hood<br />

<strong>Issue</strong> 22<br />

If you would like to send an email with a comment<br />

about an article, one line or two, then email:<br />

tweditor@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />

If you have visited a gallery and want to write a review,<br />

have some information on forthcoming exhibitions or<br />

want to write an article or profile then please contact<br />

the <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong> team and we will get back to you.<br />

We consider all articles.<br />

DEADLINE<br />

1st August, <strong>2017</strong> for <strong>Issue</strong> 22<br />

Text: Please supply text in WORD document or other<br />

plain text format.<br />

Images: These need to be at as high resolution as<br />

possible. The minimum resolution is 300 dpi,<br />

minimum size <strong>21</strong>0mm x 149mm and in JPG format.<br />

IMPORTANT: Please send images as separate files<br />

(jpeg). NOT EMBEDDED IN WORD DOCUMENTS OR<br />

OTHER DOCUMENTS. We cannot use small images or<br />

ones embedded in the article.<br />

Copyright: Please ensure that you obtain copyright<br />

clearance for any material you provide for use within<br />

the magazine.<br />

New and Returning Members<br />

Polly Hoad, Pam Morris, Joyce Marlow, Jennifer<br />

Woolnough, Ann Green, Julie Ballard, Robbi<br />

Robinson, Christina Arscott, Leslie Whitcombe,<br />

Sarah Beardsmore, Samina Gasimova, Linda Dunn,<br />

Camilla Hair, Jane Wakely, Christine Tanish.<br />

Comment<br />

To all those FULL members, make sure you make full use<br />

of the areas on the members’ area! If you haven’t sent in<br />

your images and an artist’s statement for inclusion in the<br />

Showcase do it now. This is a brilliant place to show your<br />

weavings to all our members.<br />

Also, if you teach weaving then please add your name, etc.,<br />

to the area - <strong>Weaver</strong>’s Who Teach. We gave out lists, based<br />

on this area of the Website, to people at the Knitting &<br />

Stitching Show. I was surprised how many people were not<br />

on it. Good way to get your name out there.<br />

If you have a website, blog or are part of a group who has<br />

a website get this put onto the members’ lists. This is a<br />

place I turn to as the Editor to get inspiration for members’<br />

to approach for articles! It is also a way of other members<br />

to see what is going on through your websites.<br />

For each of these, contact or send to:<br />

webmanager@britishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />

Another suggestion is to use the membership list to see<br />

whether other people are in your area and make contact,<br />

you can be email buddies, meet up for coffee, organize an<br />

exhibition in a local venue acceptable to you all, or create<br />

a weave and natter group in a library.<br />

Make use of our BTG network. Anything is possible.<br />

26 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!