Tapestry Weaver Issue 21 March 2017
Tapestry Weaver The British Tapestry Group • Issue 21 March 2017
- Page 2: BTG Committee 2017 Contents Issue 2
- Page 6: Earth Air Fire Water From my own mi
- Page 10: Here and Now Review of the Tapestry
- Page 14: Weaver’s Profile By Marilyn Eusti
- Page 18: Making an Exhibition of Ourselves T
- Page 22: Knotted Tapestry A course with Anne
- Page 26: A Chance Encounter Discovering tape
<strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong><br />
The British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group • <strong>Issue</strong> <strong>21</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2017</strong>
BTG Committee <strong>2017</strong><br />
Contents<br />
<strong>Issue</strong> <strong>21</strong> <strong>March</strong> <strong>2017</strong><br />
Chair<br />
Trisha Gow: info@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />
Acting Hon. Treasurer<br />
Anna Wetherell<br />
Hon Secretary<br />
Veronica Collins: vt_collins@btinternet.co.uk<br />
TW Editor<br />
Hilary O’Connell: tweditor@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />
Website Manager/Information Manager<br />
Eleonora Budden: info@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />
Committee Members<br />
Cande Walsworth<br />
Stephanie Edwards<br />
Paulette Furnival<br />
Carole Tricker<br />
Supporting BTG<br />
Membership Secretary<br />
Jenny Lacey: membership@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />
Advertising Manager<br />
Sarah Mclean: advertising@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />
<strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong> Team<br />
Proof Readers: Stephanie Edwards, Angie Willis and<br />
Sally Reckert<br />
Design<br />
Matt Smith: matt@shimuzu.co.uk<br />
Printing and Post: Alphaset<br />
Social Media Team<br />
Facebook<br />
Clare Coyle: clarecoyle@madasafish.com<br />
Twitter<br />
Katie Russell: tuliprussell@gmail.com<br />
The articles written in this publication do not represent the<br />
views of either the BTG or the BTG Management Committee.<br />
BTG Founder Members<br />
Ros Bryant, Janet Clark, Beryl Hammill, Shirley Ross and Nicola<br />
Wheeler<br />
The Purpose/Vision of the BTG<br />
The British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group exists to promote woven <strong>Tapestry</strong> as a<br />
contemporary art form in the UK, by raising public awareness<br />
through professional Exhibitions, networking, regional initiatives,<br />
training and development.<br />
4.<br />
4.<br />
5.<br />
6.<br />
8.<br />
10.<br />
12.<br />
14.<br />
15.<br />
16.<br />
18.<br />
20.<br />
22.<br />
23.<br />
24.<br />
26.<br />
Chair’s Report<br />
Trisha Gow<br />
Editor’s Report<br />
Hilary O’Connell<br />
My Favourite Weaving<br />
Caroline Reali<br />
Earth Air Fire Water<br />
Barbara Heller<br />
Weaving on a Grand Scale<br />
Elizabeth Radcliffe<br />
Here and Now<br />
Margaret Jones<br />
The Long and Winding Road<br />
Louise Broughton<br />
<strong>Weaver</strong>’s Profile<br />
Marilyn Eustice<br />
My Favourite Weaving<br />
Eleonora Budden<br />
. . . supporting those who are<br />
starting on their weaving journey . . .<br />
Leslie Whitcomb<br />
Making an Exhibition of Ourselves<br />
Liz Chester<br />
The Company I (Like To) Keep<br />
Heather Smith<br />
Knotted <strong>Tapestry</strong>: A Course with<br />
Anne Jackson<br />
Lorna C. Goldsmith<br />
Solway <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong>s<br />
Pat Stonell<br />
A Sense of Place<br />
Christine Paine<br />
A Chance Encounter<br />
Sarah McLean<br />
Cover Photo Credits (From Left to Right, Top to Bottom)<br />
Giants Causeway Weaving by Caroline Reali • Sample in Progress by<br />
Lorna C. Goldsmith • Cool Waters by Heather Smith • Storm Surge by<br />
Liz Chester • Erosion 1 by Louise Broughton • Cool Bitch and Hot Dog<br />
by Elizabeth Radcliffe • Parrot Practice by Eleonora Budden • Marc<br />
Camille Chaimowicz by Elizabeth Radcliffe • Ozymadias by Ted Clarke<br />
• Making Ends Meet by Marilyn Eustice • Double Interlock Sample by<br />
Christine Paine • Birch Kin by Leslie Whitcomb • Still Life with Bird by<br />
Ted Clarke • Mermaids by Liz Chester • Celebrity by Liz Chester • One<br />
Way by Ted Clarke.
My Favourite Weaving<br />
Caroline Reali<br />
Chair’s Report<br />
On behalf of the committee I am delighted to announce that the following Full members have been selected for<br />
the Sound and Weave (S&W) exhibition.<br />
They are Christine Sawyer; Margaret Crowther; Louise Martin; Lin Squires; Jane Brunning; Cos Ahmet; Alastair<br />
Duncan; Louise Oppenheimer; Margaret Jones; Paulette Furnival; Ros Bryant; Stephanie Edwards and Katie<br />
Russell.<br />
You will remember that the Sound &Weave concept had three strands . The second is the S&W online exhibition<br />
and we are in the process of finalising this information and we will be sending this out to you sometime in April.<br />
The third strand is taking place at local level, we hope that members in regional groups have been discussing what<br />
they would like to do. If you are not in a regional group but want to get together with some members to put on an<br />
S&W exhibition/open studio let us know.<br />
During October members from the London /SE areas were demonstrating <strong>Tapestry</strong> Weaving at the Knitting and<br />
Stitch show in the Craft in Action area. By all accounts this went very well with a good space allocated for<br />
demonstrating. After the Harrogate K&S some members living in the Mid/North of England have decided to work<br />
together to promote the BTG at various local shows, we look forward to hearing more about their plans.<br />
formation of rocks further in the distance, which will<br />
be smoother in appearance and give some<br />
dimension to the piece.<br />
I spend time selecting my yarns and combine<br />
colours. I use mainly Swedish linens which have a<br />
lovely lustre and depth of colour.<br />
I like to pack in as much detail as 10 ends to the inch<br />
allows. I find this sufficiently fine to weave detail as<br />
well as giving good coverage.<br />
Starting off is always uncertain as I don’t know if the<br />
weaving will work and it takes some time to emerge<br />
and make sense. I mark the warp with black felt tip<br />
as a guide to where I am heading. I rarely use a<br />
cartoon unless the piece is larger.<br />
This weaving is taking longer than usual due to the<br />
lack of daylight at present as I don’t like weaving in<br />
artificial light; I confuse the colours. My eyesight has<br />
never been brilliant so I work in short bursts of<br />
concentration whilst listening to Radio 4.<br />
During the last year we have asked for members, who are interested in helping us manage the BTG, to get in<br />
touch. Some of the areas we need specific help are with marketing and promotion and taking forward our<br />
exhibition planning after S&W- can you help?<br />
This edition of TW is going to be the first to be provided in print and digital format – we are looking forward to<br />
accessing it through the BTG website and I hope you enjoy reading it.<br />
Trisha Gow<br />
Editor’s Report<br />
What a wonderful way to bow out from the Editor’s position than with a beautiful <strong>Issue</strong> as I think this one is.<br />
Thank you to everyone who has contributed to the last seven <strong>Issue</strong>s, it has been a pleasure to work with you<br />
all and share your experiences and images with the members of the British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group. You are an<br />
amazing group of creative geniuses who are inspirational and very generous. Also thank you to the <strong>Tapestry</strong><br />
<strong>Weaver</strong> team who have been so supportive and just brilliant. So now I am off to pastures new where I will<br />
look forward to reading the next issue. Good luck to my successor, I know you will enjoy this position as I<br />
have. To you all, Happy Weaving!<br />
Hilary O’Connell<br />
4 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
Giants Causeway Weaving<br />
My favourite weaving is always the piece that I am<br />
working on. Once a piece is finished I lose interest<br />
and want to move onto the next challenging<br />
subject. This piece 'Giant’s Causeway’ is being<br />
woven for a specific exhibition, in which I hope it<br />
will be shown.<br />
I work from photos taken of places I have visited.<br />
These are my own postcards/souvenirs reminding<br />
me of my experiences and feelings about a place.<br />
Translating a flat photograph into a textural weaving<br />
requires experience and imagination to make it work<br />
otherwise it could end up being a copy which has<br />
taken a considerable period of time and effort to<br />
produce.<br />
I visited the Giant’s Causeway on a blustery, windy<br />
day. There was a small window of clear weather<br />
when I was able to take photos of this impressive<br />
landscape, somehow avoiding the tourists climbing<br />
all over it. I focused particularly on the formation of<br />
rocks and textures of the foreground.<br />
When I start to weave I work out the size and then<br />
how I am going to weave it and what effect I want to<br />
achieve. I take notes of the techniques I am going to<br />
use. The foreground is rougher in texture than the<br />
Once the image makes sense I speed up and my<br />
motivation increases. I weave using my fingers. I<br />
never could get the hang of bobbins. I like the feel of<br />
the yarn as it passes through my fingers.<br />
I am not quite halfway. I have used plain weave in<br />
small areas contrasting with tufting and wrapping<br />
techniques (using a darning needle for this) also<br />
soumak to depict the roughness of the stones.<br />
The next stage will be more challenging when I<br />
weave the formation of stones. I haven’t decided<br />
whether to leave the slits. I will decide at a later stage<br />
and see what it looks like.<br />
This is what makes tapestry weaving so unique and<br />
absorbing.<br />
Images by Caroline Reali<br />
Giants Causeway Detail<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 5
Earth Air Fire Water<br />
From my own miscarriage to 9/11 to the degradation of our environment, I have always made<br />
art from what bothers me. I chose tapestry to translate these concerns because the process<br />
gives me joy. The slow accretion of yarn and colour leaves me time to meditate upon the<br />
message I wish to convey.<br />
Still Life with Bird<br />
Ozymandias, included in the exhibit “Here and Now”<br />
curated by Lesley Millar at the National Centre for Craft<br />
and design in Sleaford, had a longer gestation. I was<br />
concerned about the legacy of the landmines buried<br />
throughout the world, but what images to use? A dead<br />
bird, obviously, as it had become a personal icon, but I<br />
did not want to show a mangled corpse or a child on<br />
crutches. And then, on a trip to Mexico, I found this<br />
broken rag doll on the pavement and everything fell into<br />
place. This artist statement from 2003 reads:<br />
People bury land mines and then people bury the<br />
victims of land mines.<br />
Land mines and the devastation they cause are a potent<br />
symbol of how the innocent suffer from the effects of war -<br />
most victims of land mines are children and the elderly who<br />
unwittingly stray into an unmarked mine field. Man thinks<br />
he is in control of his world but unexpected natural disasters<br />
and predictable (and preventable) man-made disasters are<br />
equally deadly.<br />
Sometimes it can take decades (literally) to complete a<br />
series and Earth, Air, Fire and Water is still in progress.<br />
The first tapestry (though the quartet was not even<br />
imagined at the time) was air. When the Twin Towers in<br />
New York were destroyed in 2001 there were powerful<br />
and disturbing images everywhere and two years later<br />
Still Life…with Bird was the result. My artist statement at<br />
the time said:<br />
Destruction, resurrection, desolation, hope, memory. No one<br />
remains unaffected by the events of 9/11 and continuing<br />
acts of terrorism worldwide. We know it can happen<br />
anywhere, anytime, and to anyone.<br />
The skeleton of the world trade centre, the skeleton of a bird<br />
wing, actual bones; all testaments to terrorism as a tactic.<br />
The orange sky evokes the aftermath of 9/11, the bones<br />
evoke museum displays. Bones are precious; they can be<br />
buried in a cairn or burned in a crematorium or buried in<br />
another sense in a dusty museum drawer. In future ages<br />
will archaeologists dig in what was once New York and<br />
wonder at what they find?<br />
The bird hovering in the sky - is this the angel of death come<br />
to wreak havoc on an uncaring world or is this the<br />
Quetzelcoatl, the phoenix, rising from the bones and the<br />
ashes of a dead civilisation to create a new world?<br />
6 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
Ozymadias<br />
Along the bottom of the tapestry in blue-green boxes are the<br />
land mines, hidden and deadly. I have woven them as<br />
drawings and used metallic threads to emphasise their<br />
man-made nature.<br />
Above lies a rag doll with gingham and hearts referring to<br />
the innocence of childhood… The doll lies in a vast desert, a<br />
wasteland with distant buildings on the horizon lit up by<br />
tracer fire in a night sky. The tracer bullets can be seen as<br />
fireworks and I used shiny yarns to make them more festive,<br />
a contrast to their true purpose.<br />
For me the bird is the angel of death, menacing and lethal,<br />
but it could also be seen as an avenging angel crying out in<br />
anguish over what man has wrought, or a mother bird<br />
crying out a warning.<br />
Now I had two tapestries woven in a similar format but<br />
it would take a decade to get to the next in the series.<br />
After yet another disastrous oil spill, I turned to the same<br />
format to depict my concerns about the poisoning of<br />
water, the source of life on this small planet. In 2013 One<br />
Way was woven:<br />
A pelican, its feathers covered in oil from the recent oil spill<br />
in the Gulf of Mexico, tries to rise up from the polluted<br />
waters, crying out his warning of the future that we are<br />
allowing to happen.<br />
Behind him is a flooded small town, symbolising a way of<br />
life that is drowning through the consequences of climate<br />
change. Telephone poles stand at a slant, cars are<br />
One Way<br />
submerged; one street sign allows traffic to go straight ahead<br />
or turn left, while the one above, a one way sign, points right.<br />
We can only go in one direction.<br />
The small blue-green boxes at the bottom of the tapestry<br />
illustrate other consequences of our negligence. A<br />
hermaphroditic fish covered by the molecule for oestrogen<br />
represents what we are doing to the creatures that share our<br />
planet: we are literally poisoning them with our own waste.<br />
The zebra mussels and milfoil represent the invasive species<br />
that we carry in our wake as we trample over mother earth.<br />
The bits of plastic in the remaining two boxes were picked<br />
up from two beaches, one on the Pacific Ocean and one on<br />
the Mediterranean.<br />
We cannot sweep the refuse of our civilisation beneath the<br />
sand and pretend it does not exist: it does not go away.<br />
And what of the fourth tapestry in this series? It would<br />
be the last of the four elements, fire, and ideas and<br />
images are percolating in the back of my brain. We will<br />
all, including me, have to wait and see what results on<br />
the loom.<br />
Barbara Heller<br />
Photographs by Ted Clarke, Image This Photographics, January <strong>2017</strong><br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 7
Weaving on a Grand Scale<br />
By Elizabeth Radcliffe<br />
Back when I was at Edinburgh College of Art, I found that I was looking at my fellow students and<br />
even old fashion magazines for inspiration. I have always been interested in fabric and started<br />
making most of my own clothes over fifty years ago. I felt that you could tell something about<br />
people from the kind of clothes they wore and that you didn't have to depict the whole figure to<br />
make a statement about a person.<br />
In my sketch books, I tried to capture the qualities of<br />
texture and pattern that I found most interesting.<br />
Looking at the clothes around me, I saw fur-fabric,<br />
corduroy, tweed, boucle wools, Fair Isle knitting,<br />
leather, woolly pullovers by the dozen, (it does get<br />
cold up here in Scotland) and, of course, denim to<br />
name but a few. Over the years I have tried to<br />
capture these surface qualities in my work.<br />
to weave the face of the figure and Ritzi showed me<br />
how to weave the eyes without having to sew the<br />
almost vertical areas together, by wrapping the weft<br />
around the adjacent threads at the joins. The result<br />
was a much more subtle one.<br />
One of the next pieces was my Diploma piece, which<br />
had to be woven in a matter of weeks at the end of<br />
About the finishing technique; as I have said to some<br />
weavers who exclaimed “You'll have to tell us how to<br />
do that” my reply was “I could tell you but then I'd<br />
have to kill you”!<br />
Over the years, many weavers have experimented<br />
with new techniques and even invented some. I feel<br />
that if you set yourself the task of innovating<br />
something new you will succeed eventually and you<br />
will learn so much more about the medium that you<br />
are exploring.<br />
One of the first big pieces that I wove was a life-size<br />
shaped tapestry, called ‘Cool Bitch and Hot Dog’. The<br />
woman was wearing a fur coat as was the dog, but<br />
he was a Dalmatian.<br />
Marc Camille Chaimowicz Shaped 163 x 63 cms at its widest<br />
piece was simply woven, because of the time<br />
constraint and the figures were depicted from the<br />
neck down to the mid thigh.<br />
As usual I was thinking of how you can identify<br />
someone by their clothes. I wove a few shoulder<br />
pieces, mainly motorbike gear with lettering on them<br />
and tried to capture waxed cotton and green leather<br />
for the first time.<br />
Cool Bitch and Hot Dog detail<br />
I wove the figure on its side because of the problems<br />
of knotting on the strands of wool for her fur coat.<br />
At the time, a couple, Ritzi and Peter Jacobi who were<br />
well known Rumanian artists working in Germany,<br />
were visiting the <strong>Tapestry</strong> Department. I was about<br />
Connie and Norries’s Wedding clothes detail<br />
my final year. I had gone along to take pictures of a<br />
friend's wedding at the church door and ended up<br />
with some black and white photographs of the<br />
group, the bride and groom, and both sets of<br />
parents. There was scope to weave pattern; the<br />
groom's kilt and Lovat jacket and both of the fathers<br />
wearing pin stripe suits, which were different. The<br />
bride wore a beautiful Mexican pin-tucked dress. The<br />
I didn't weave much for a long time whilst I was<br />
teaching and it wasn't until 2000 that I wove two<br />
pieces in six weeks (the school holidays) for an<br />
Exhibition in Peebles with John Brennan. Weaving<br />
the images of my daughter and her partner had, of<br />
course, interesting challenges like torn denim and<br />
stripey socks.<br />
Later I wove more half figures, herringbone tweed,<br />
camel and sheepskin jackets. I even attempted a<br />
larger family group: a fur-fabric coat and striped silk<br />
dress as well as a very old mohair teddy were<br />
depicted. Weaving folds and stripes, and tonal<br />
changes kept things interesting.Single figures such<br />
as Young Joo and Marc Camille Chaimowicz, which I<br />
completed recently, are also shaped and I keep<br />
refining the technique each time. Weaving<br />
mercerized cotton and complicated checked<br />
trousers proved to be difficult<br />
My next piece is of my granddaughter and her very<br />
furry Ragdoll cat ‘Beyonce’.<br />
A candlewick dressing gown and mohair cat; what<br />
more can a weaver want to keep things interesting?<br />
Photos by Elizabeth Radcliffe<br />
Marc Camille Checked Trousers<br />
8 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 9
Here and Now<br />
Review of the <strong>Tapestry</strong> exhibition at NCCD, Sleaford.<br />
By Margaret Jones<br />
For those who have never visited the NCCD, the<br />
building was originally the old Hubbards and<br />
Philips Seed Warehouse which was refurbished<br />
into the current building in 2002 Originally called<br />
'The Hub' it is now the 'National Centre for Craft<br />
and Design' with an international reputation for<br />
the quality of its exhibitions, lectures and<br />
participatory learning programmes. As a venue,<br />
it is well lit and has an open feel enabling you to<br />
stand back and 'take in' the larger pieces. Some<br />
of the walls are not white which is a pleasant<br />
change from what has become the 'mandatory<br />
white cube' in so many galleries.<br />
'Here and Now' is an exhibition of tapestries by <strong>21</strong><br />
invited artists from across the world. The vision of<br />
Professor Lesley Millar and the NCCD, it contains a<br />
range of works from the representational to the<br />
abstract and includes small works as well as some up<br />
to 2.5 x 4.1 metres in size. The works reflect the<br />
various artists’ preoccupations with the current social<br />
and economic climate, the beauty and decay of our<br />
natural world and in all there is a focus on the<br />
processes of making.<br />
moments of human emotion.<br />
Two weavers approached the long debated question<br />
of how to exhibit smaller tapestries. Caron Penney<br />
chose more traditional frames whereas one of Jilly<br />
Edwards works was 52 small 'diary' pieces, each<br />
exhibited in a CD case and hung as a grid, four across<br />
and twelve high.<br />
Philip Sanderson has returned again to his image of<br />
a windblown tree, this time woven using strips of<br />
fabric and yarn twisted together in the weft on a<br />
warp sett of around 2epi. The resulting shaped<br />
tapestry has exceptional presence within the gallery<br />
but is also subtle in its execution. Pat Taylor's work is<br />
displayed as 9 panels, four are plain colours and five<br />
from Tallinn in Eastonia to Vilnium in Lithuania. She one of<br />
the five Japanese weavers in the exhibition, each of whom<br />
have their own very special aesthetic.<br />
I was not familiar with the work of several of these Japanese<br />
weavers and it is good to be able to see their tapestries in<br />
the flesh. In the case of Ayako Matsumura, this can be taken<br />
literally as she weaves images of bodies using yarn made<br />
from shredded animal skin (leather). Her explorations of<br />
skin as the interface between clothing and bodies is quite<br />
intimate and weaving the background in black polythene<br />
heightens the texture of the skin.<br />
Each of the tapestries and their weavers have a fascinating<br />
hinterland making this exhibition one not to be missed.<br />
This exhibition ran at the NCCD until 15th January but then<br />
is moving to The Holburne Museum, Bath from 24th June -<br />
1st October <strong>2017</strong> where I believe it may be slightly reduced<br />
due to space restrictions. So another chance for you to view<br />
this unique exhibition.<br />
All photos by P. Jones<br />
Some of the work is immediately recognizable, Erin<br />
Riley, Jilly Edwards and Caron Penney for example;<br />
there is no mistaking their unique style and content.<br />
Equally there is work that does not quite fit into the<br />
classic weft-faced tradition. Ieva Krumina from Latvia<br />
utilises digital print and applique onto the surface of<br />
the tapestry; a fascinating addition which can only be<br />
seen on very close inspection. Aino Kajaniemi, as<br />
many will know, uses a specialist technique which<br />
regularly leaves warps showing between the wefts.<br />
This produces an image with a lightness of touch;<br />
totally suitable for her depictions of fleeting<br />
are finely woven faces, in which she continues to<br />
exhibit her unerring use of colour.<br />
Ai Ito from Japan maintains the traditional narrative<br />
imagery in a large tapestry of mesmerising detail<br />
depicting the journey she took across Baltic Europe<br />
10 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group
The Long & Winding Road<br />
I have been captivated by constructed textiles from an early age and love that the simple<br />
interlacing of threads, in various sequences, can produce an array of different fabrics. I love the<br />
tactile qualities of yarn and the possibilities presented by the colours and textures available.<br />
Erosion 1. Hand dyed wool and viscose rayon<br />
I was introduced to weaving at 17 years of age after<br />
starting a course at a local college. My teacher,<br />
Joanne Breen, was passionate about the process of<br />
tapestry and had a very open, yet careful approach.<br />
I remember the first time I warped up on a simple<br />
frame and began to weave. The yarns were dull and<br />
coarse, yet instantly I began to understand that what<br />
was exciting about the technique was the ability to<br />
build not only texture, but imagery. We soon created<br />
our first finished piece, which I still have today. For<br />
me, it represents the starting point on the path I have<br />
taken with tapestry over the past 26 years. One which<br />
has led me to studying at The National College of Art<br />
& Design, Dublin, an exchange in Winchester School<br />
of Art, an influential residency with artist/weaver<br />
Regine Bartsch and the opportunity to exhibit widely.<br />
found, the process of erosion is stopped and it's<br />
surface no longer changes.<br />
As a result of observing such minute detail, the scale<br />
of my tapestries reduced. I had already worked at<br />
larger scales, but now I wanted to remain true to the<br />
precious hidden qualities and the fragmented nature<br />
of the objects. I began to explore miniature tapestry,<br />
irregularly shaped, almost at the size of the remnants<br />
I had been picking up and putting in my pocket. This<br />
was exciting and challenging. It demanded different<br />
approaches to my design development and also to<br />
the type of yarns I was using. I found a scale at which<br />
I loved working and I continue to work at it today.<br />
When evolving an idea I crop and enlarge areas of my<br />
drawings or photographs and further develop these<br />
through thumbnails, then finished designs,<br />
sometimes with mixed media or paper manipulation.<br />
I am constantly thinking about the techniques of<br />
tapestry and sometimes begin to sample, which<br />
drives the design forward. Ultimately this will<br />
become the cartoon.<br />
Fragment 1<br />
such as soumak and floats create texture where<br />
necessary. Eventually, I began to contrast the<br />
softness of the woven surface with various grounds.<br />
Firstly these were natural materials such as wood<br />
and slate, then ceramic. By using clay, I can apply<br />
mark-making to mirror the initial object and link this<br />
with the tapestry.<br />
Currently I am developing work which results from<br />
being part of an archaeological dig. As the trenches<br />
deepened, layers of soil revealed their densities and<br />
colours and presented many 'finds' such as bones,<br />
pottery, shells and tile fragments, all signifying traces<br />
of life and rituals of the past. This was fascinating<br />
and links directly to the idea that each object, like the<br />
ones I collect, has a story and a starting point and<br />
whether buried or exposed, has been been affected<br />
by the processes of time. This project is in the early<br />
stages, but I have acquired a collection of the 'finds'<br />
and am enjoying investigating them.<br />
Traces. Wool, linen, cotton, bamboo<br />
and paper yarn with stitch embellishment<br />
From the beginning, the processes of nature have<br />
had an influence on my work. Consistently, I have<br />
found a wealth of mark-making, pattern and colour<br />
on organic and synthetic surfaces affected by<br />
erosion. I find it fascinating that these are constantly<br />
transient. Initially, I looked closely at the tactile<br />
qualities of the objects. However, on investigating<br />
further through drawing and macro photography, I<br />
was struck by the myriad of colour and often<br />
jewel-like clusters present between the weathered<br />
layers. I wanted to pursue the idea of 'seeing the<br />
unseen'. Instantly I could envisage translating these<br />
qualities into the textile medium. I also became a bit<br />
of a magpie and collected fragments and objects to<br />
be observed in more detail back at the studio, a<br />
practice which continues to this day. Nonetheless,<br />
the environment to which each item belongs remains<br />
paramount, as it has shaped them into what I find<br />
beautiful and intriguing. I also like the idea that in<br />
recording an object or removing it from where it's<br />
Erosion 2. Hand dyed wool and viscose rayon<br />
One of the key elements of tapestry I have always<br />
adored is colour blending. The varied palettes of<br />
peeling paint, worn driftwood, tarnished metals,<br />
bleached bones, sea-softened stones and broken<br />
rocks constantly provide the perfect source. When<br />
working small, I use a combination of fine yarns,<br />
often hand-dyed to achieve desired colours. I have<br />
also found shimmering qualities within the objects.<br />
To interpret them, I use metallic yarns or viscose<br />
rayon, which dyes beautifully. These are coupled with<br />
wools or linens to create a play of light-absorbent<br />
and light-reflective areas within the work. The sett of<br />
the warp is also quite dense, using fine yarn, and<br />
allows me to build the detail required. Techniques<br />
Le Jour Sacre. Hand dyed wool, cotton, linen and viscose rayon.<br />
Reflecting on my tapestry practice, I feel I'm only<br />
partway down the road. I also teach at Ballyfermot<br />
College of Further Education where I first learned to<br />
weave and I revel in passing on what was taught to<br />
me. I enjoy every step of the weaving process and<br />
am excited about where it will take me in the future.<br />
I work also with knitting, crochet, stitch and<br />
loom-weaving. However, I remain a tapestry weaver<br />
and the road I have taken with it has been long and<br />
definitely winding, veering off to focus my<br />
concentration in other areas at times. This said, no<br />
matter what else I am doing, there is always one<br />
constant, a tapestry on the frame.<br />
Louise Broughton<br />
www.louiseboughton.wordpress.com<br />
Also on Etsy: A Textile Trove<br />
Images by Louise Broughton<br />
12 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 13
<strong>Weaver</strong>’s Profile<br />
By Marilyn Eustice<br />
My Favourite Weaving until the Next One!<br />
By Eleonora Budden<br />
Nobody was more surprised than I was when my tapestry weaving was accepted for the Cordis Showcase.<br />
At first I assumed that if my weaving, ‘Don’t Speak Of It’, was accepted, then the exhibition couldn’t be as<br />
prestigious as others were making out. Confidence plays a large part in any creative activity and often<br />
we need the right kind of support before we can reach our potential. On the other hand, once you become<br />
seriously involved, it is surprising what you can achieve in a short time.<br />
I am a newcomer to the art of tapestry. In my younger days I made jewellery in Buenos Aires,<br />
my birthplace, and in Ibiza and London for a while. Then I went to college, graduating in<br />
computer science, later specialising in Human Computer Interaction. After retiring I explored<br />
several forms of textile crafts, discovering tapestry weaving only three years ago.<br />
My journey to be a tapestry weaver has taken a long<br />
time. I learned to weave cloth at college in the sixties,<br />
but not all private houses have space for a floor loom<br />
and so, for several years, I was busy drawing and<br />
potting instead. I came back to cloth weaving when we<br />
moved to a house big enough to install a loom and<br />
continued to make floor rugs and silk scarves.<br />
years ago I signed up for a workshop to learn the basic<br />
techniques of tapestry weaving and suddenly I was<br />
fired up.<br />
To do anything properly, you have to learn the rules,<br />
even if you break them later. Over the last three years<br />
I have attended a number of workshops, where I have<br />
been inspired by mixing with other enthusiasts and<br />
now I have reached a point where I can’t sleep because<br />
so many ideas are racing though my head.<br />
I had been weaving about a year when I started on<br />
the parrots. I was looking for something with lots of<br />
colour to brighten up the winter days. I think I typed<br />
into Google something like ‘colourful birds’ and there<br />
were hundreds of inspiring ideas. I was fascinated by<br />
an image of thirteen parrots sitting on a wire, their<br />
reflections clearly visible in the water below.<br />
I knew it would be hard, so decided to start on<br />
another image of just two cuddling up to each other,<br />
which is why I wove them tufted. I used Ghiordes<br />
knots over single warps to obtain fine colour<br />
changes. For the beaks I used supplementary warps<br />
and the feet were constructed using leather and<br />
fabric (twined) with cotton whipping for the claws. It<br />
was great fun doing “Birds of a Feather” over the<br />
winter months and when spring came along I was<br />
ready to embark on the thirteen.<br />
Parrots on Parade<br />
parrots perched on a twig straight up. The ripples<br />
didn’t work however I tried so decided to weave it all<br />
from the side and concentrate on the reflection.<br />
Dont Speak Of It<br />
I had met Jane Brunning at a pottery class and our<br />
mutual interest in weaving, hers particularly in tapestry<br />
weaving, awakened my interest in the subject,<br />
although I continued to weave cloth for some time. The<br />
idea of spending so much time on one piece of work<br />
when I could paint it instead did not fit in with my<br />
impatient temperament!<br />
Jane and I began to meet regularly; she pursuing<br />
tapestry while I was still concentrating on cloth. I began<br />
to see the amazing diversity of tapestry weaving so I<br />
started tentatively to experiment with ideas, thinking<br />
that I knew enough from cloth weaving to be successful<br />
in the new discipline. I dabbled for several years, with<br />
cloth weaving still my main creative outlet, then three<br />
I tend more towards abstract designs, often taken from<br />
nature, and weave on frames in ‘a room of my own’. I<br />
even forget to eat sometimes and, although I still find<br />
it very slow, I have learned to love the endless problem<br />
solving to make a piece work. My piece for the Cordis<br />
Showcase ‘Don’t Speak Of It, is a bit out of my comfort<br />
zone. It is taken from a line drawing I made on my iPad,<br />
using a minimal black line on a white background to<br />
give an emotional impact. Not so simple to weave, of<br />
course, as mistakes become very obvious. But at the<br />
age of 69 I have, at last, found my true vocation.<br />
Images courtesy of Marilyn Eustice<br />
Making Ends Meet<br />
Parrot Practice<br />
Firstly, I needed to work out how to approach the<br />
weaving, straight up or sideways? My first task was<br />
to weave a sampler and experiment. I wove a parrot<br />
on its side, using soumak for the plumage. I quickly<br />
learned that this really needs to be laid on thickly and<br />
after weaving just a few passes above, I saw my<br />
parrot was just a little bit too skinny!<br />
However, the problem I was really having were with<br />
the ripples in the water. I tried weaving straight up,<br />
sideways, any-which-way, whilst weaving three<br />
Finally I embarked on the ‘thirteen’, which I now call<br />
“Parrots on Parade”. I was going to use a length of<br />
thin wooden dowel for the perch. Fortunately at the<br />
very last minute I had a brainwave and used clothesline<br />
instead which, being flexible, was easier to<br />
manipulate whilst weaving with it in place. It is simply<br />
held by a stitch at the very bottom and, thereafter, by<br />
the claws of the parrots facing forwards and the<br />
bodies of the others. I used cartoons for the parrots,<br />
but only drew each on as I was going along. The<br />
foliage was improvised hatching, a technique I could<br />
do forever, as it feels so much like painting. Once<br />
finished I loved the sampler almost as much as the<br />
thirteen, so I decided to frame it and called it ‘Parrot<br />
Practice’ because that is what I was doing, practicing<br />
parrots.<br />
Now, some time has passed and I have had more<br />
than one favourite along the way, but that is another<br />
story - or should I say stories?<br />
Images by Eleonora Budden<br />
14 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 15
‘ . . . supporting those who are<br />
starting on their weaving journey . . . ’<br />
The quote above is from the British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group home page. The group makes room for<br />
tapestry weavers on a spectrum from professional to home based beginners, showcasing and<br />
honoring that spectrum fully. This keeps tapestry accessible. It makes space for expression<br />
made from a skill set producing beauty and clarity that may include, but not be solely restricted<br />
to, the fine arts. These community resources support my passion to create tapestries that are<br />
place based, that belong where they have grown. To accomplish this, I need communities of<br />
fiber art sharing, because place is community and community is place.<br />
shapes and curves. I am now sampling for how to<br />
reproduce the basic composition of my original Tree<br />
Song piece with a more subtle color shift through four<br />
seasons, across four panels, as a background to the<br />
simple, geometrical tree shape.<br />
The sampling process has been invaluable. It has helped<br />
me make choices about composition and color shifts<br />
that a sketch alone could not have clarified. It has also<br />
enabled me to practice interlock techniques, rather than<br />
sewn slits. This will make it possible for me to weave the<br />
long, tall, straight line of the tree trunk while maintaining<br />
the fabric integrity of the piece as a whole. That will be<br />
helpful through out the weaving of four panels. Viewing<br />
the gallery on the British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group web site, and<br />
visiting artist statements and blogs linked there has been<br />
wonderful guidance through this process.<br />
As an ecopsychologist, this sense of community and<br />
place is indistinguishable from my home eco region. A<br />
region that extends into other regions, creating a web<br />
of life that covers our entire planet. This is an abiding<br />
gift and well worth the time taken to weave a response<br />
to the beauty of interconnected survival. Yet how can I<br />
possibly express something so large and complex, given<br />
my skills as a beginner and the difficulty of the tapestry<br />
medium itself?<br />
First, there is the learning. Jane Hoffman and Rebecca<br />
Mezoff have very kindly been available to me as<br />
tapestry teachers. Jane’s dedication to weaving<br />
tapestries with handspun, vegetal dyed yarns, depicting<br />
at-risk flora and fauna around her mountain home, was<br />
an incredible model for my early learning in tapestry.<br />
Rebecca has been a model for me in that tapestry can<br />
be a means of weaving a shared social fabric, reflecting<br />
life’s passages and potential for fruition. These<br />
passages and potentials are often impossible to<br />
understand and share using only words. But tapestry<br />
images, woven moment-by-moment into cloth and<br />
then shared within a community, can convey their<br />
deeper meanings and relevance to our daily lives.<br />
My current piece in progress is called Tree Song. It is an<br />
attempt to express my kinship with two pine trees. One<br />
that I loved and visited daily at my home in<br />
Massachusetts, and one that I now visit daily on my<br />
walks in California. Each tree stands still through<br />
seasons and time. Each is both a biological, place-based<br />
life form – and each is a vivid manifestation of sound<br />
and light waves, made of particulate atoms that arose<br />
at the moment our universe was created. These atoms<br />
move both in and out of my body, and through and<br />
around each tree daily.<br />
I would like to use my basic design skills, yarn choices<br />
and color gradation shifts to express the presence and<br />
flow of our shared life foundations in tree form. I am<br />
doing so in this current tapestry using the basic<br />
template of a tapestry I wove when I lived on my farm<br />
in Massachusetts.<br />
Wool from our sheep, locally spun and dyed with<br />
walnut was woven into the tree trunk. Regionally dyed,<br />
16 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
Pine Tree<br />
mill spun yarns were used for the background, base<br />
and branches. I have grown as a weaver since this<br />
tapestry. But I still hold a commitment about the fibers<br />
I choose to weave into a tapestry.<br />
Being a former shepherdess, yarn designer/dyer and<br />
custom handweaver of organic rugs, shawls and<br />
blankets, it is important to me that yarn is suitable for<br />
the task I am asking it to perform. It is also important<br />
to me that the yarn I use has a sense of provenance, a<br />
sense of vibrance, zest and liveliness. Over the years of<br />
growing and working with fiber, I have learned to look<br />
for that sense of a fiber being alive and reflective of<br />
light.<br />
Rebecca’s three basic course levels taught me to<br />
integrate this sense of yarn provenance with tapestry<br />
design to balance color transitions with geometric<br />
Birch Kin<br />
Tree Song Sampler<br />
This piece will be a real adventure in tapestry weaving;<br />
four panels, plenty of color blending, and plenty of<br />
juggling shape and shading. I am grateful that even<br />
though my work will not be a work of fine art or<br />
demonstrate advanced skill in the weaving lexicon, there<br />
is a still a place where my expression can be shared and<br />
received as a form of communication. Our shared fibers<br />
of meaning and survival are well worth this effort.<br />
Leslie Whitcomb, Ph.D.<br />
Leslie has been a weaver, spinner and dyer for thirty-five<br />
years. She is expanding her experience as a shepherdess,<br />
yarn designer and custom handweaver into study and<br />
expression as a tapestry weaver. Leslie lectures in courses<br />
on the Nature of Fiber Art and Human Development in<br />
Applied Ecopsychology through Portland State University<br />
/Project Nature Connect departments of Education and<br />
Organic Psychology.<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 17
Making an Exhibition of Ourselves<br />
There comes a time for all of us when we reach under the bed and pull out our latest work for show<br />
to the general public. We've got past the mumbled “Erm, what is it?” from our nearest and dearest<br />
and we are going to show the wider public what we've made. Exhibiting work is a necessary stage in<br />
“becoming an artist” and is often rewarding, but in my experience exhibiting, something people were<br />
really not expecting to do, requires the hide of a rhinoceros. For every “Ooh tapestry!” at the Knitting<br />
and Stitching Show, there will be at least one “you knitted that” and several “my wife sews tapestries”<br />
in the local gallery.<br />
a 20 mile radius of the gallery must have no merit.<br />
Somehow, living in another county makes you highly<br />
talented. Obviously though, they have never been to<br />
Ipswich.<br />
Your rhinoceros hide will be needed to deal with the<br />
inevitable regular rejections and some comments.<br />
“Well, it's not art like you do David. This is more like<br />
sewing,” was a particular favourite. One man, on<br />
looking at my tapestry, informed me that I could have<br />
painted it. I replied that he hadn't seen my painting!<br />
Many people are genuinely baffled about why we<br />
bother. In our modern world the idea of spending<br />
extended periods of time simply making something is<br />
alien. However, by the end of my stewarding shift at<br />
least one person will go home knowing what tapestry<br />
is and why anyone would want to bother. One down,<br />
62 million to go!<br />
Celebrity<br />
to the shop is usually limited to printed cards with<br />
images of my tapestries. Each year I have three or four<br />
new sets of cards printed with my latest, most<br />
photogenic, pieces and this has become a staple part<br />
of my income. We also boost group funds by selling<br />
packs of colour related “leftovers” from our various<br />
crafts. This is how I discovered that to embroiderers and<br />
felters my colour-blended fine wool bobbin leftovers<br />
are catnip. I bag up scraps in the same colour group and<br />
they go like hot cakes.<br />
Mermaids<br />
Being the only exhibiting tapestry weaver locally I<br />
normally share space with other textile artists. We share<br />
the organisation and cost of public exhibitions. As a<br />
group we can afford to rent local galleries, the numbers<br />
of which are in constant decline. Also, as a group we are<br />
able to manage the stewarding and setup duties<br />
necessary to welcome the visiting public and, hopefully,<br />
make sales. The gallery we use is one we have used for<br />
several years and we book our slot a year in advance.<br />
Costs include a hire charge of £430 per week plus<br />
commission on sales, VAT on the commission, an<br />
additional bank charge for credit/debit card sales, plus<br />
VAT on that as well. On top of this we pay for printing of<br />
posters and leaflets plus some limited advertising. For<br />
two weeks between 20 people, this works out at around<br />
£50 per person with enough space for each member to<br />
display three or four pieces, depending on size.<br />
On the plus side, the gallery we use is part of a much<br />
larger concert, shopping and exhibition venue which is<br />
a considerable tourist attraction in Suffolk, so we are<br />
guaranteed a certain footfall on top of what we can<br />
attract with our advertising and repeat visitors. Staying<br />
in the same place at the same time for consecutive<br />
years does gain you a growing, loyal following of those<br />
Cool Waters<br />
people who genuinely enjoy your work, one of the most<br />
rewarding aspects of the whole exercise. In an effort to<br />
recoup our individual costs, we also have a “shop”<br />
selling smaller value hand-made items. My contribution<br />
Sales from the wall have steadily fallen in recent years,<br />
but we still usually manage to sell a few exhibition<br />
pieces. It is up to each individual to decide why they<br />
exhibit. It is often the first time you get a proper look at<br />
your own work, from any distance. For most of us,<br />
exhibiting is a necessary part of making. We are all<br />
Makers who want to show people our work. It is our art.<br />
You don't make art for yourself. Art is for sharing, and<br />
as I have already explained there are costs involved so<br />
you have to weigh up the pros and cons. Sharing the<br />
risks and the work is a great way to get started.<br />
The fun side of exhibiting of course is introducing the<br />
public to your way of making and introducing yourself<br />
to the public in return. I have observed a number of<br />
different types of visitors. Some will get to the top of the<br />
stairs, poke their head in the doorway, look horrified<br />
and run straight back down the stairs. I refer to them<br />
as the “runners”. Others will step through the door<br />
before realising their mistake. Having stepped into the<br />
room, they obviously feel that they cannot turn around<br />
and walk out again, so instead they do a tight circle of<br />
the room at a walking pace before swiftly exiting. They<br />
are the “spinners”. Some visitors come specially to see<br />
our work but many are accidental tourists who wander<br />
in, look surprised and end up staying for an hour.<br />
Having exhibited locally, why not enter into national and<br />
international exhibitions? I often find it easier to get into<br />
an exhibition in Ukraine than one in Ipswich. I think it is<br />
a function of the art world that anyone who lives within<br />
Biography<br />
Liz Chester learned to weave tapestry at the age of 15 with the<br />
Lyth <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong>s in Caithness, Scotland. After a 26 year<br />
detour into engineering Liz became a full-time tapestry weaver<br />
after taking redundancy from paid employment in 2008. She<br />
exhibits locally, nationally and occasionally internationally.<br />
www.elizabethchester.co.uk<br />
Photography by Liz Chester<br />
Storm Surge<br />
18 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 19
The company I (like to) keep<br />
Since the mid 80’s, when I enrolled in my first short tapestry weaving course at the Australian<br />
<strong>Tapestry</strong> Workshop, each time I completed another course I determined to continue and make a<br />
success of weaving. Instead I accumulated equipment, books, yarn, subscriptions and unrealised<br />
ambitions.<br />
Cup rendering. Minton cup rendered in markers and gold paint.<br />
When I turned 50 I realised I had better get started<br />
before I missed my chance. I enrolled in the RMIT<br />
Diploma of Textile Design and Development, which<br />
included tapestry weaving. The class structure,<br />
assignment deadlines and guidance of the lecturer,<br />
Joy Smith, led to the production of the sort of work I<br />
had been aiming for. In my final year tapestry<br />
weaving was taken off the curriculum, but by then I<br />
had met a nucleus of women with a common<br />
passion. We formed a group that has grown in<br />
number and now meets monthly at the<br />
Handweavers and Spinners Guild of Victoria in<br />
Melbourne.<br />
This group has had a significant influence on my<br />
work and outlook. I enjoy working alone but also<br />
need to mix with like-minded people to bounce ideas<br />
off. Being part of the group has expanded my skills<br />
– not just in weaving. We share ideas, techniques<br />
and inspiration, occasionally visit exhibitions, and<br />
there is lots of encouragement and friendly peer<br />
pressure. Apart from our own work, members<br />
participate in the annual AuNZ tapestry challenge<br />
and the biennial Wangaratta Contemporary Textile<br />
Award.<br />
Recently a group of us exhibited in The Johnston<br />
Collection Christmas Exhibition. It was an exciting<br />
process – we toured the collection for possible items<br />
as our group’s inspiration, finally choosing a set of<br />
India Company paintings that had been very special<br />
to Johnston. To unify our pieces we selected a colour<br />
palette from the ATW colour range, guided by the<br />
colours used in the paintings. Themes, concepts and<br />
designs were discussed and refined.<br />
My design concept was based on the small,<br />
decorative, circa 1811 Minton teacup that is credited<br />
for starting the eight-year-old Johnston on his<br />
lifelong journey of collecting. Using levels of focus to<br />
represent the growing awareness of his love of<br />
collecting, I decided to weave three tapestries; the<br />
first was made up of abstract blocks of colour to give<br />
an ‘out of focus’ impression, the second and third<br />
tapestries to be more detailed, with smaller blocks<br />
revealing the cup as if it were gradually coming into<br />
focus.<br />
I rendered the cup using markers and gold paint and<br />
then manipulated the image in Photoshop so it was<br />
pixelated to different levels of detail. The idea of<br />
weaving blocks of colour seemed easy but was to<br />
prove incredibly painstaking. Firstly, each block had<br />
to be assigned a colour and tone from within our<br />
chosen palette, which was more limited and, in some<br />
Pixelated images Photoshop manipulated images.<br />
Three chosen from eight possible levels.<br />
Tapestries one and two finished and ready to be cut off.<br />
cases, different to the colours on the cup. The colour<br />
codes were noted on the cartoon grid, and metre<br />
length bundles of weft of each colour prepared.<br />
Weaving test samples helped to work out the<br />
number of warps and lines of weft required to both<br />
match the grid and ensure the blocks would be<br />
square. The first two tapestries used 12/9 cotton<br />
seine twine with four weft threads and wove quite<br />
quickly. Unfortunately I made the mistake of cutting<br />
off before sewing the many slits. Horrors – they fell<br />
into strips of weaving, required a huge amount of<br />
sewing and resulted in the final pieces looking a bit<br />
like a pebbled path. At this point I decided that all<br />
three would be framed, trusting that the mounting<br />
would help hold them together.<br />
As all were to be the same finished size, the third<br />
tapestry used a finer warp (20/6), with three warp<br />
threads to get the increase in detail. More blocks<br />
meant more slits and sewing – what to do? I finally<br />
remembered a technique<br />
I had heard about and<br />
went with it - between<br />
every row of blocks I wove<br />
a full pass with cotton<br />
thread. This method still<br />
required some stitching<br />
but the fabric of the piece<br />
itself held together.<br />
I used ATW wool weft (they<br />
have their own dye house<br />
and the standard range is<br />
around 370 colours), and<br />
some Irish linen thread to<br />
get the glossy pure white I<br />
needed. Two of the<br />
tapestries also included<br />
blocks woven with gold<br />
silk to hint at the gilt on<br />
the rim.<br />
Meanwhile, members<br />
were posting photos of<br />
their finished pieces and<br />
finalising mounting and<br />
display methods. The<br />
deadline was drawing<br />
closer and every moment<br />
I had was spent on<br />
weaving rows and rows of tiny blocks. Finally, mounted<br />
and framed (without glass), they were delivered to<br />
the exhibition. Our works were hung in one room,<br />
amongst the items that we had chosen for<br />
inspiration, including the Minton teacup. It was<br />
exhilarating to see all the works together and see the<br />
results of all those hours finally hanging on the wall.<br />
I learnt so much while producing these tapestries,<br />
and being part of the group is what made it possible.<br />
The encouragement, support and bond we shared<br />
have made the process all the more interesting and<br />
satisfying. It’s said that you are as good the company<br />
you keep, well I’m not that good yet – but I’m working<br />
on it – finally!<br />
Heather Smith<br />
Photographs courtesy of Heather Smith<br />
20 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | <strong>21</strong>
Knotted <strong>Tapestry</strong><br />
A course with Anne Jackson<br />
Working ona a 3D sample<br />
Solway <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong>s<br />
Exhibition at Lochthorn Library, Dumfries<br />
West Dean is a key centre for tapestry weaving in the UK and alongside its tapestry studio the college<br />
offers short courses in tapestry weaving. As part of its programme in 2016 the college offered a course by<br />
Anne Jackson. Anne participates in the European <strong>Tapestry</strong> Network’s Artapestry exhibition work, and<br />
exhibits her work internationally.<br />
The course was structured to teach us how to set up<br />
the warp threads and how to knot. The technique is<br />
based on double half hitches and allows the maker<br />
to add warps or knot warps which together can take<br />
the work into shaped outlines or 3D forms. We<br />
knotted to our hearts delight, some trying raffia or<br />
nettle yarn and others having a go at creating<br />
bulging shapes. There was a general atmosphere of<br />
concentrated learning and experimentation in the<br />
class, and combined with the short talks of people’s<br />
work there was much to learn and understand.<br />
Display Case<br />
For the course Anne brought examples of her work,<br />
small works based on her interest in early witch<br />
persecutions and samples from previous<br />
commissions such her work for the Eden Project,<br />
Leaving Eden. Her work has some similarity in<br />
appearance to woven tapestries, however when you<br />
feel the work it has a very robust structure, densely<br />
held together by weft knots that are tied tightly over<br />
warp thread. The yarn used in the weft consists of<br />
smooth, strong non-elastic yarns in cotton, silk and<br />
linen – I didn’t see any wool used, although I did try<br />
some in my own sample. The knotted structure leads<br />
to a sort of ridged surface and you can blend colours<br />
to create tonal changes or visual differentiation<br />
across the surface of the work.<br />
There were eight students on the course,( a majority<br />
BTG members), all experienced textile practitioners,<br />
and everyone had some, if not substantial<br />
knowledge, of tapestry weaving. We were asked us<br />
to prepare a little presentation about ourselves and<br />
our work, while Anne shared generously of her<br />
experience of historical research, interests in the<br />
tapestry world and her wider interests in music.<br />
22 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
Anne’s samples for us to study<br />
My sample in progress. Working over primary drawing.<br />
For me the best parts of the course were the talks.<br />
We could quietly sit and knot while listening to each<br />
other’s narratives of long careers in tapestry, design<br />
explorations and questions of future work. When<br />
you are a student at West Dean it is worth taking<br />
excursion to other classes to see what is going on,<br />
and the general feeling of useful toil pervades<br />
everything. With samples of knotted bits, work in<br />
progress and impressions from Anne’s and other<br />
students’ work I went home with many ideas and<br />
plans for things to come.<br />
Lorna C Goldsmith<br />
Photographs by Eleonora Budden<br />
Our group is thriving despite some wax and<br />
wane. 2016 started with a growth in numbers<br />
necessitating a move to Lochthorn Library. We<br />
settled happily into a spacious and well-lit room<br />
with our looms/frames, yarns and ideas. Rita<br />
Corbett, our founder, inspires and encourages<br />
us, Gwyn (who travels from Cumbria) is another<br />
accomplished and experienced weaver and also<br />
Katie Russell, when she has<br />
time in her busy schedule to<br />
be with us.<br />
So we are nudged to learn<br />
new techniques and develop<br />
different skills. Rita, realising<br />
how scared some were when<br />
“design “was mentioned,<br />
decided to share some of the<br />
basic skills she had found<br />
useful in developing ideas or<br />
whether or not an image<br />
would translate into a<br />
weaving. A number of<br />
members diligently followed<br />
her beginners’ design<br />
workshops, did their homework<br />
and felt that they had benefitted. As the year<br />
progressed busy lives claimed some members but<br />
we still have twelve members keen to continue.<br />
Weaving is certainly a seductive activity; the calm<br />
repetition of passing weft through warp, the feel of<br />
the yarn, combining colours, building shapes,<br />
producing images and textures.<br />
Our Exhibition<br />
Our year culminated in a small exhibition in the<br />
library, partly to show “what those women are doing<br />
in that room with frames and yarns on the first Friday<br />
of every month” and partly to help library staff<br />
show that they are catering for community activities<br />
in the ongoing effort to keep libraries open. The staff<br />
were keen and offered boards next to the library<br />
desk where everyone coming in would see the work.<br />
We were also offered the use of<br />
display cases; hence our December<br />
meeting was taken up with<br />
mounting the exhibition with<br />
some tapestries that were the<br />
result of the design workshops<br />
and others woven in the course<br />
of the year.<br />
Our display case contained a<br />
frame with partly woven<br />
sunflowers and included a<br />
cartoon to show how the weaver<br />
works to her design. Tools of the<br />
trade were also displayed with<br />
samples of different techniques,<br />
for example, colour-blending.<br />
Our display demonstrated a<br />
range of subjects and techniques and was well<br />
received. We enjoyed it as well.<br />
Pat Stonell<br />
Photos by Katie Russell<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 23
A Sense of Place<br />
Drawing and Weaving in Turkey 2016<br />
By Christine Paine<br />
Since visiting Istanbul in 2013 I wanted to return to Turkey to see more of the country and its rich<br />
textile culture. The opportunity arose when Jane Brunning and Louise Martin put together a week’s<br />
program of drawing and master-class weaving in Southern Turkey at the end of September, 2016,<br />
called A Sense of Place.<br />
textile fairs. He kindly offered to show us examples<br />
of kilim motifs and techniques. We spent a fascinating<br />
afternoon as he pulled out rug after rug from his<br />
collection, showing us the different techniques and<br />
motifs - explaining their meanings such as the<br />
spider, the woman with hands on hips and borders<br />
related to lovers’ quarrels. The “wayward women”<br />
carpets. Motifs are used to tell the stories of their<br />
weavers and the traditions are passed down from<br />
one generation to the next. Turkish rural life & the<br />
symbols on the rugs – the usual concerns of country<br />
people everywhere – prosperity, safety from danger,<br />
marriage, fidelity, loyalty, mountains and rivers,<br />
animals and birds.<br />
pomegranates. In the beginning I needed the mirror<br />
to see what I was doing, but later I got into the<br />
rhythm and could sense where to turn and lock and<br />
pass. There were many shady places to sit and work<br />
and my view for this project was the mountains, the<br />
blue sky and the pomegranate trees.<br />
I felt like a rug weaver with my yarns hanging from<br />
the loom. All in all it was a most stimulating and<br />
enjoyable week which also included drawing at the<br />
local Lycian rock cut tombs of Kaunos, mud baths<br />
and an evening boat trip across the lake to see the<br />
stars.<br />
At ORUC Carpets<br />
Thirteen of us travelled from every part of the U.K.<br />
to our location for the week - Spectrum Yoga, a short<br />
walk from the bustling town of Dalyan. We included<br />
beginners, experienced weavers, a watercolourist<br />
(who converted to weaving), a bead-maker who<br />
excitedly translated traditional kilim motifs into<br />
beading patterns and a husband. We were here to<br />
learn about kilims, the flat woven carpets and rugs<br />
of Turkey.<br />
A Sense of Place is summed up as a tranquil space,<br />
blue skies and sunshine. Pomegranate trees bearing<br />
rich orange-red fruit lined the paths. Our work space<br />
was the shady yoga shala (a Sanskrit word meaning,<br />
"home or abode"). Although this is my story, I<br />
collected comments from everyone so it is for all of<br />
us (comments from others are in italics). Days were<br />
organised with two hours of themed drawing<br />
sessions in the mornings – always fun and sometime<br />
messy – quick, organic and freeing with different<br />
media each day! Simple, yet effective drawing<br />
challenges provided a wealth of ideas. These were<br />
followed by the weaving master class with a different<br />
kilim technique each day. Design exercises kickstarting<br />
imagination. Ancient techniques update.<br />
To give us context, Jane and Louise contacted<br />
Ramazan Oruc of Oruc carpets in Dalyan. An expert<br />
in Turkish rugs, he has, over the past 30 years, visited<br />
the UK to do restoration work for the V&A museum<br />
in London amongst others and to exhibit at the HALI<br />
We carefully examined both front and back,<br />
examples of vertical and diagonal slits, outlining,<br />
dovetailing, double interlock, soumak and jijim<br />
techniques in rugs, salt bags and tent hangings. We<br />
were surprised that so many were woven from the<br />
back with long floats and complex patterns. Some<br />
rugs were well worn and we could see and feel their<br />
family histories. We were under no obligation to buy<br />
but some of the carpets did make their way back to<br />
the UK.<br />
Weaving Kelim Slits<br />
Even with naturally dyed colours available, vibrant<br />
pink and violet colours may be woven in to part of<br />
the carpet to protect against evil spirits along with a<br />
secret name, either the weaver or a loved one. The<br />
Christine Paine weaving double interlock sample from the back<br />
patterns and techniques are learnt as part of growing<br />
up. A daughter had a greater chance of marrying if<br />
she was a skilled weaver and would offer carpets as<br />
part of her dowry to her future husband. She would<br />
take great care in the dyeing and hand-spinning of<br />
wool and in the selection of designs and motifs, some<br />
of which were related to her daily life and tribal<br />
culture.<br />
After seeing such wonderful examples of carpets we<br />
worked on our own techniques. Lines made on<br />
postcards from the drawing exercise led to a group<br />
project weaving the lines as slits in a Turkish kilim. It<br />
was a personal way of making marks and interpreting<br />
a traditional technique in a modern way.<br />
After completing my slit weave sample, I set myself<br />
the challenge of weaving one of my designs for a<br />
weaver’s mark inspired by traditional symbols and<br />
using the double interlock method. I had never<br />
successfully understood or mastered this technique<br />
and it does give such a beautiful surface with no slits!<br />
Following my own design was much more exciting<br />
than trying to make up a technical exercise on the fly.<br />
The exercises we have done to open the doors to<br />
creativity are beautifully juxtaposed with the regularity<br />
of the motifs. Women were judged on the quality of<br />
their weaving dowry so I’m not sure if my attempts at<br />
double interlock would have got me a husband! I<br />
used the colours from the sky and the<br />
Christine Paine’s finished double Interlock sample<br />
I will end with a couple of weaverly comments: Louise<br />
and Jane interlock and dovetail well, half-hitching and<br />
keeping an eye on your sheds. And finally from our<br />
newest weaver: Never at a loose thread!<br />
For more information on the place and the people<br />
mentioned:<br />
www.spectrumturkey.co.uk<br />
www.dalyancarpets.com<br />
www.louisemartintapestry.com<br />
www.janebrunningtapestry.co.uk<br />
Christine Paine<br />
http://www.thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk/artist/<br />
christine-paine/<br />
24 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group<br />
British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group | 25
A Chance Encounter<br />
Discovering tapestry weaving through Anni Albers<br />
By Sarah McLean<br />
<strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong><br />
Free to BTG members<br />
£7.50 to non-members<br />
Membership Fees<br />
1st April <strong>2017</strong><br />
UK individual £35<br />
UK Student £20<br />
UK Associate £25<br />
UK Associate Group £45<br />
EU/Rest of the World £40<br />
Advertising Rates<br />
BTG aims to produce two issues print and digital a<br />
year. <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong> is free to BTG members and<br />
any surplus print copies may be sold at BTG<br />
exhibitions and other events around the UK.<br />
South of the Border, American. Artist: Anni Albers, 1958, Cotton, wool. 4 1/8 x 15 1/4 in. (10.5 x 38.7 cm.)<br />
The Baltimore Museum of Art: Decorative Arts Fund, and Contemporary Crafts Fund, BMA 1959.91<br />
A complimentary copy is sent to advertisers (who are<br />
Not BTG members) advertising in the current issue.<br />
For more information about placing an advert and for<br />
current rates contact:<br />
advertising@thebritishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />
On the road leading down from Brighton station<br />
to the sea there used to be a huge secondhand<br />
bookshop. It was there I found a lavishly<br />
illustrated book about Anni Albers and was<br />
immediately captivated by her pictorial<br />
weavings.<br />
One, which I particularly liked, was called ‘South of<br />
the Border’. The colours woven into it were bright<br />
pinks, oranges and yellows, conjuring up heat and<br />
light, set off by light blue. The arrangement of<br />
colours suggested a landscape, perhaps with<br />
buildings. The twists of thicker wool could be trees.<br />
The whole piece had a rhythm set up by groups of<br />
four black vertical lines and also thicker orange<br />
vertical lines which appear and disappear<br />
throughout the piece. These were, I now realise, the<br />
warps showing through the weft. For such a small<br />
piece, 10.6 x 38.7 cm it was very complex. This<br />
fascinating book made me want to find out more.<br />
Although the name Albers was familiar, her husband<br />
was Josef Albers (he of the colour squares), I had not<br />
realised that Anni also had a long and varied career<br />
after her days at the Bauhaus. She initially started<br />
weaving as this was the only option open for women<br />
at the Bauhaus.<br />
After the Bauhaus was shut down in 1933, Josef and<br />
Anni went to teach art and weaving at a new<br />
experimental college, Black Mountain College in<br />
North Carolina, USA. From here they made many<br />
trips to Mexico to see the art and ancient<br />
architecture.<br />
In the early 1940s Anni started to make small-scale<br />
weavings as well as being a teacher, lecturer and<br />
writer. Her most well known book is called ‘On<br />
Weaving’.<br />
In the 1950’s Anni worked with the manufacturer<br />
Knoll on upholstery textiles while also making most<br />
of her pictorial weavings. Some of these were large<br />
scale such as two commissions for synagogues.<br />
These are beautiful in golds, whites and blacks. In<br />
1970, when she was 71, she gave up weaving “I could<br />
not stand the idea anymore of all the yarns and<br />
looms. It took too long.” So she took up printmaking<br />
and etching, she died aged 95 in 1994.<br />
Well from that encounter I initially wove rugs, quicker<br />
and more practical. Gradually tapestry weaving has<br />
taken over but I often look again at those illustrations<br />
of her weavings. These tapestries, poised<br />
between pictorial and abstract, emerge out of her<br />
in-depth knowledge of ancient and modern,<br />
weaving into the techniques which could not be<br />
created in another medium.<br />
‘South of the Border’ is owned by the Baltimore<br />
Museum of Art who kindly waived their fee for<br />
reproduction. Look on the internet to see other<br />
examples of her work to understand why she made<br />
such an impact on me and my weaving journey.<br />
Permission kindly given by Albers Organisation to<br />
use image.<br />
Photography By: Mitro Hood<br />
<strong>Issue</strong> 22<br />
If you would like to send an email with a comment<br />
about an article, one line or two, then email:<br />
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If you have visited a gallery and want to write a review,<br />
have some information on forthcoming exhibitions or<br />
want to write an article or profile then please contact<br />
the <strong>Tapestry</strong> <strong>Weaver</strong> team and we will get back to you.<br />
We consider all articles.<br />
DEADLINE<br />
1st August, <strong>2017</strong> for <strong>Issue</strong> 22<br />
Text: Please supply text in WORD document or other<br />
plain text format.<br />
Images: These need to be at as high resolution as<br />
possible. The minimum resolution is 300 dpi,<br />
minimum size <strong>21</strong>0mm x 149mm and in JPG format.<br />
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the magazine.<br />
New and Returning Members<br />
Polly Hoad, Pam Morris, Joyce Marlow, Jennifer<br />
Woolnough, Ann Green, Julie Ballard, Robbi<br />
Robinson, Christina Arscott, Leslie Whitcombe,<br />
Sarah Beardsmore, Samina Gasimova, Linda Dunn,<br />
Camilla Hair, Jane Wakely, Christine Tanish.<br />
Comment<br />
To all those FULL members, make sure you make full use<br />
of the areas on the members’ area! If you haven’t sent in<br />
your images and an artist’s statement for inclusion in the<br />
Showcase do it now. This is a brilliant place to show your<br />
weavings to all our members.<br />
Also, if you teach weaving then please add your name, etc.,<br />
to the area - <strong>Weaver</strong>’s Who Teach. We gave out lists, based<br />
on this area of the Website, to people at the Knitting &<br />
Stitching Show. I was surprised how many people were not<br />
on it. Good way to get your name out there.<br />
If you have a website, blog or are part of a group who has<br />
a website get this put onto the members’ lists. This is a<br />
place I turn to as the Editor to get inspiration for members’<br />
to approach for articles! It is also a way of other members<br />
to see what is going on through your websites.<br />
For each of these, contact or send to:<br />
webmanager@britishtapestrygroup.co.uk<br />
Another suggestion is to use the membership list to see<br />
whether other people are in your area and make contact,<br />
you can be email buddies, meet up for coffee, organize an<br />
exhibition in a local venue acceptable to you all, or create<br />
a weave and natter group in a library.<br />
Make use of our BTG network. Anything is possible.<br />
26 | British <strong>Tapestry</strong> Group