Eatdrink #63 January/February 2017

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007 

№ 63 • January/February 2017 

www.eatdrink.ca 

FREE 

Culinary 

Entrepreneur 

Dave Cook 

Community 

Catalyst 

in London’s 

Old East Village 

Includes Our 

2017 London 

Wine & Food Show 

Profiles of 

Excellence 

SUPPLEMENT 

Dark Horse Estate Winery 

Smackwater Jack’s 

Taphouse 

FEATURING 

Abruzzi Ristorante 

Old World Inspiration, Local Infusion 

Quai du Vin Estate Winery 

Getting It Right in St. Thomas 

Anderson Craft Ales 

Brewing Magic in London 

ALSO: 2017 Culinary Trends | Jill’s Soups Stews & Breads Recipes | Couples Resort in Muskoka

2 www.eatdrink.ca 

№ 63 | January/February 2017 

SAVOUR the art of food 

in STRATFORD 

Escape for a winter culinary extravaganza of Stratford Chefs 

School student creations, innovative cheese and beverage 

tastings, calming high tea and a Hunter’s Feast of Canadian 

game meats. Sip craft beer and spirits and create your custom 

journey on Savour Stratford Culinary Trails. 

JAN 

FEB 

12 Stratford Chefs School dinners (until Mar 6) 

13-15 Stratford Winterfest, Queen’s Park 

14 Savour Stratford Blues & Booze, Milky Whey 

21 The Hunter’s Feast, The Bruce Restaurant 

29 High Tea, Bradshaws at Revival House 

4 Savour Stratford Spanish Wine & Cheese, Milky Whey 

12 INNERChamber Concert, Factory163 

18 Savour Stratford French Cheese & Wine, Milky Whey 

19 Sunday Brunch with Stratford Symphony 

24 Live at Revival House – Alysha Brilla 

Design your culinary getaway 

at visitstratford.ca 

@SavourStratford 

@StratfordON 

StratfordON 

Stratford, 

Ontario 

VisitStratfordON

London 

Get a babysitter and ca l a cab . for tonight we live it up! 

FESTIVAL 

2017 Blizzard Edition 

January 20 th –February 5 th 

Indulge in a 2 or 3 Course Meal! 

2 Course Lunch Menus $ 15 & $ 20 

3 Course Dinner Menus $ 25, $ 30, $ 35 & $ 40 

Call Restaurants for Your Reservations Today! 

For Locations and Menus See Website 

www.londonlicious.ca 

Armouries Grille 

519.640.5030 

Black Trumpet 

519.850.1500 

Blake’s Bistro & Bar 

519.430.6414 

Blu Duby 

519.433.1414 

Bourbon St. Cajun & Creole Kitchen 

519.667.2000 

Budapest Dining Room & Tavern 

519.439.3431 

Byron Free House 

519.601.3300 

CHE Restobar 

519.601.7999 

Chop Steakhouse Bar 

226.663.5100 

Crossings Pub & Eatery - Hyde Park Rd. 

519.472.3020 

Crossings Pub & Eatery - Lambeth 

519.652.4020 

Fellini Koolini's 

519.642.2300 

Fire Rock Pub 

519.471.3473 

Garlic’s of London 

519.432.4092 

Icarus Resto Bar 

519.601.7110 

Idlewyld Inn & Spa 

519.432.5554 

Katana Kafe & Grill 

519.455.9005 

La Casa 

519.434.2272 

Le Rendez-Vous 

519-204-0173 

London Wine Bar 

519.913.3400 

Michael’s On The Thames 

519.672.0111 

Old South Village Pub 

519.601.0333 

Practical Henry’s Pub & Eatery 

226.663.8020 

Indulge in Life! 

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine 

519.601.7252 

Restaurant Ninety One 

519.858.5866 

Sweet Onion Grill 

519.204.5775 

Tamarine by Quynh Nhi 

519.601.8276 

Thaifoon Restaurant 

519.850.1222 

The River Room 

519.850.2287 

The Runt Club 

519.642.2300 

Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro 

519.452.3737 

Villa Cornelia 

519.679.3444 

Waldo’s Byron 

519.473.6160 

Waldo’s On King 

519.433.6161 

Winks 

519.936.5079

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OUR COVER 

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NORTH MOORE CATERING LTD THE RIVER ROOM CAFE & PRIVATE DINING 

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contents ISSUE № 63 

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2017 

10 

14 

44 40 

57 

18 

51 

FOOD WRITER AT LARGE 

10 Our Collective Appetite: 17 Culinary Trends in 2017 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

RESTAURANTS 

14 Old World Inspiration, Local Infusion at Abruzzi in London 

By TANYA CHOPP 

CULINARY RETAIL 

18 Culinary Entrepreneur Dave Cook, in London’s OEV 


ROAD TRIPS 

22 Looking for Romance? Couples Resort in Muskoka 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

NEW & NOTABLE 

26 The BUZZ 

33 LONDON WINE & FOOD SHOW 

PROFILES OF EXCELLENCE SUPPLEMENT 

Dark Horse Estate Winery: Bred for Taste 

Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse: Eat & Drink at the Water’s Edge 

BEER MATTERS 

40 Brewing Magic in London: Anderson Craft Ales 

By WAYNE NEWTON 

WINE 

44 Getting it Right at Quai du Vin Estate Winery 

By GARY KILLOPS 

SPIRITS 

46 A Focus on Craft: Four Niagara Region Distillers 

By BILL WITTUR 

THE CLASSICAL BEAT 

49 Young Talent Shines Bright 

By NICOLE LAIDLER 

VARIOUS MUSICAL NOTES 

51 Let It Snow: Winter Concerts to Keep You Warm 

By GERRY BLACKWELL 

THEATRE 

54 Theater in Winter: Some Joy, Some Madness, and More 


COOKBOOKS 

57 Jill’s Soups Stews & Breads by Jill Wilcox and Josie Pontarelli 

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

BOOKS 

60 Selections for the Resolute 

Reviews by DARIN COOK 

THE LIGHTER SIDE 

62 A Piece of Cake? 

By KYM WOLFE 

26 

THE BUZZ 

46 

62

cheers! 

Ups N’ Downs, Downtown Sarnia 

call or click for your FREE travel guide & map 

also available at southwestern ontario travel centres 

1.800.265.0316 • 

tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink



notes from the publisher 

Time to Dine 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

I 

try to take some comfort in knowing 

that time is passing at the same rate 

for everyone. That is a fact. Yet I am in 

constant wonderment about time’s 

increasingly rapid acceleration as 

experienced by me, a middle-aged 

man (if I live more than a century). 

Constantly checking my mental 

arithmetic when calculating how 

long ago significant events in my life 

took place — “That can’t be right!” — the 

flip side is equally distressing. Upcoming 

events race forward on the calendar, and the 

rush to get things done seems perpetual. 

“Take time to smell the roses.” This advice 

is equally apt for younger people, with 

21st-century economic and social media 

pressures my generation didn’t experience, 

Experience the 

World of Tea 

Reminder! 

Valentine’s Day 

TUESDAY 

February 14 

but we all need to take a deep breath and resist 

the swirl of time rushing by. Savour the joys of 

life. I could put my publisher hat on and wax 

enthusiastically about how critical our 

food and drink, the fuel that sustains 

us, is to that purpose. That is certainly 

true, but what is most important 

are the people around us. Family, 

friends, neighbours, colleagues, 

acquaintances ... People come and 

go through our lives and we rely upon 

them in different ways at different times. 

Appreciate them. For they are what shapes us 

most, helping us become who we are. 

Will you be my Valentine? If that question 

seems trite or outdated, perhaps think 

again. Valentine’s Day reminds us to express 

268 Piccadilly Street (beside Oxford Book Store) 

519-601-TEAS (8327) • www.tealoungelondon.com 

MON, FRI & SAT 10am-9pm • TUES-THURS 10am-6pm • SUN 10am-3pm 

731 Wellington St. (at Piccadilly), London 

519 434-9797 

www.spruceonwellington.com


feelings of love and affection, and dining 

out together is an outstanding way to do 

so. Make reservations early (and honour 

them!), for it is a busy day for restaurants. 

Whether you opt for a visit to a treasured 

and favourite spot or an exploration of an 

exciting new venue, the sharing of great food 

and drink with someone you care about is 

good for body and soul. Enjoy! 

We would love to say hello to you at our 

booth at the London Wine & Food Show, 

January 19–21. Thursday remains the best day 

to attend if you enjoy talking to the experts, 

as Friday and Saturday are busier, but this is 

great fun and a wonderful way to indulge in 

new tastes. We also have an excellent draw 

prize this year courtesy of Lexus of London 

and Windermere Manor — see page 41 of 

this issue for details— but if you can’t make 

the show, you can also enter online. See our 

Facebook page for details. 

Happy New Year, and best wishes for 2017 

from our entire crew. 

Trust... 

Taste... 

Quality... 

At Metzger’s, 

we follow Old World 

recipes to create healthy and 

wholesome foods. We hand select 

dry aged Ontario Prime and AAA 

Beef and offer superior local Pork, 

Poultry and Lamb. We are especially 

proud of our own handcrafted 

artisan-style meats and salamis. We 

are confident that you will taste the 

Metzger Meats difference. 

Pure Ingredients 

Chef-Prepared Take-Home Meals 

House-Made Sauces and Preserves 

Gourmet Kitchen Items 

Baked Goods 

Catering 

purebon.ca 

Open six days a week. 

Hensall, Ontario 

Just off Hwy 4, 

45 minutes north of London. 

www.metzgermeats.com 

519-262-3130 

Available in London at 

The Village Meat Shop 

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market 

on Saturdays! 

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry 

Specialty European Meat Products



food writer at large 

Our Collective Appetite 

17 Culinary Trends in 2017 


Trends — the general direction in 

which something is developing or 

changing —advance in predictable 

stages. This is no different in 

the culinary world, where we see the 

manifestations of our collective appetites. 

In no particular order, here are the most 

prominent local trends. 

1 

The big news this year is the everincreasing 

popularity of, and passion 

for, plant-based cuisine. Vegetarian, vegan 

and root-to-stalk 

cooking have 

gone from hot 

food trends to 

mainstream 

contenders. The 

majority of meat 

alternatives may 

still be soy or 

from Plant Matter Kitchen 

wheat-based but 

chickpeas, corn, legumes and fungi are 

replacing animal proteins in restaurants. 

Think kidney bean pepperoni, heart of 

palm calamari, coconut bacon, smoked 

carrot lox, cultured cashew milk cheeses 

and vegan doughnuts. At the centre of 

several trends — plant-based cuisine, 

foraging and umami — all manner of 

fungi are building a forceful presence on 

the culinary scene. 

2 

Jackfruit, with its spiky outer shell and 

starchy pear-like inner flesh, is also 

touted as a go-to meat substitute with a 

good source of dietary fibre, an ability to 

absorb flavours, and a savoury taste when 

cooked. In fact, jackfruit is expected to be 

positioned as a top food trend for 2017. 

Kale’s former ubiquity was challenged 

by cauliflower last year. Expect 

seaweed’s new-found popularity to be 

the latest contender thanks to its being 

high in umami flavour 

and health benefits. 

Incidentally the 

term “veggies” in 

Jackfruit 

Pinterest “comfort 

food” searches soared 336% in the past year. 

3 

There is a strong argument that the 

spiralizer is one of the hottest 

kitchen gadgets in the market 

right now. Spiralizing — 

turning fresh vegetables 

into faux noodles 

— is expected to 

sustain popularity 

for a long time, 

owing to the 

“eat healthy” and 

from Bradshaws 

vegetarian movements. 

4 

Last year saw the launch of a 

savoury, spicy and sweet flavour 

trend which was found in 

everything from potato 

chips (harissa-hummus) 

to ice creams (Thai peanut 

butter pretzel). Due to their 

success these mash-up 

flavour combos are on the 

radar again this year. 

5 

There are a number of 

emerging super foods 

which include the African fruit baobab 

(usually pronounced bow-bab, or bay-obab) 

known for its high concentration of 

vitamin C, fibre and antioxidants; tropical 

fruits cherimoya and soursop whose sweet 

flesh and distinctive characteristics 

are used to flavour beverages 

and ice cream; and kaniwa 

(pronounced ka-nyi-wa) a 

high-fibre high-protein food 

that is being heralded as the 

new quinoa. 

Baobab fruit


6 

Speaking of quinoa, there is a developing 

market in Ontario for a homegrown 

crop of the superfood that is 

gluten-free, high in fibre 

and zinc, and an excellent 

source of magnesium 

and iron. Quinoa has 

been reigning supreme 

as a healthy high-protein 

trend since 2014. Also 

expect to hear about a 

whole new generation of 

spirits made with grains like quinoa. 

7 

One of the top break-out trends continues 

to be the “clean” movement. Eating 

“clean” is the present-day form of the late 

1960s and ’70s natural food 

movement. It is all about 

providing transparency 

and eliminating 

anything that has additives 

or chemicals, is 

processed, or has been 

exposed to pesticides. The 

movement streamlines product labeling and 

provides clean label lists of simplified ingredients 

that consumers can easily understand 

and pronounce. 

8 

Turmeric, the rhizomatous herbaceous 

perennial plant of the ginger family 

with powerful 

anti-inflammatory 

effects, antioxidant 

benefits, and an 

ability to balance 

other flavours, is 

considered to be the 

top culinary trend 

of the last few years. 

According to industry insiders turmeric 

continues to pick up steam as a trending 

ingredient (up 21%). Other trending spices 

are caraway (up 40%), saffron (up 31%) and 

horseradish (up 29%). Cayenne pepper rose 

47% in global product launches. 

9 

There is a growing 

demand for greater 

diversity and higher levels 

of authenticity in ethnic 

cuisines. Relatively 

unknown and underappreciated, 

the African culinary 

canon features a range of 

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distinct and diverse cuisines. Berbere, baharat, 

dukkah, ras el hanout, tsire and other 

traditional African spice blends are achieving 

broader use and emerging as the new ethnic 

inspiration for cooks. 

10 

Offering authentic 

flavours and 

showmanship, handpulled 

noodles are 

expected to be the big 

on-trend taste in urban 

Chinese restaurants. Pasta 

is also poised to make a strong comeback. 

11 

Food symposiums and culinary events 

are a very effective way to gauge the culinary 

zeitgeist. To celebrate 150 years of Canada, 

the 2017 presenters of Terroir will showcase the 

history, diversity and leadership of our culinary 

landscape in a program 

titled “Our 

Home and Native 

Land: Celebrating 

Canadian Gastronomy” 

at The Art 

Gallery of Ontario 

on May 29, 2017. 

The Terroir Symposium 

is a non-profit 

educational event designed to bring together 

innovative and creative influencers from the 

field of hospitality, including chefs, food and 

beverage experts, writers and business leaders. 

It is an opportunity to champion the connection 

between “taste and place,” showcase 

culinary innovation and raise the global profile 

of Canadian cuisine. 

12 

Anyone who has chanced upon a menu 

with a strong focus of wild and foraged 

seasonal ingredients, or that draws inspiration 

from traditional indigenous 

cooking techniques such 

as cedar plank barbecuing, 

has tasted the influence of 

contemporary Canadian 

cuisine. Rich with culinary 

history, Canadian indigenous 

cuisine is full of the seasonal 

flavours of traditional First 

Nation’s cuisine as well as the culinary 

practices of early settlers and immigrants. 

13 

Chefs continue to be preoccupied 

with cured, pickled, fermented, foraged 

and house-made or artisanal food and 

beverages like kombucha, pickles, sausages

from Revival House 

and salumi. The demand for artisan cured 

meats and charcuterie and artisan cheese 

boards show no signs of abating. Pork in all 

its iterations, especially charcuterie, pho and 

bibimbap remain wildly popular. The earthy 

and acidic flavours of fermented foods like 

tempeh, kimchi, kombucha and sauerkraut 

continue to be hot trends. 

14 

Made by 

hand, in 

small batches, with 

specialized and 

local ingredients 

continues to be 

the gastronomic 

entrepreneur’s rallying call. 

15 

Going out to a restaurant 

remains the number 

one preferred activity for 

spending time with family 

and friends. Recent studies 

state that nearly half of all restaurant visitors 

now self-identify as foodies. 

16 

Breakfast as we know it is expected 

to be transformed with more ethnic 

flavours and heavier brunch-style items. The 

hottest recent “innovations” are updated 

versions of the all-day 

breakfast. Also expect to 

see dark chocolate cake 

make an appearance on 

breakfast menus, given 

its recent elevation due to 

its purported beneficial impact on memory, 

focus and cognitive function. 

17 

The inclination of millennials for 

natural, uncomplicated and healthful 

diets will drive the continuing expansion 

of vegetarian, vegan and other plant-based 

food and beverage 

offerings. Recent 

studies have 

indicated that 58% 

of millennials are 

inclined to agree that the food you purchase 

and where you buy it are a reflection of your 

personal values. 

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519-601-1651 

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519.432.4092 

481 Richmond St., London, ON 

LUNCH 

DINNER 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large.



restaurants 

Old World Inspiration, Local Infusion 

at Abruzzi Ristorante in London 

By TANYA CHOPP | Photography by STEVE GRIMES 

Abruzzi’s Chef Dave Lamers and Manager 

Rob D’Amico share a glance and a smile 

as they talk about how quickly the past 

six years in business have flown by. And 

though the restaurant’s co-owners haven’t changed 

course since setting out on their original mission 

of serving up “Italian-inspired” cuisine, what has 

propelled the establishment forward is the way 

Lamers and D’Amico have spent careful time and 

attention stoking the flames of inspiration. 

Each year the duo make a point to travel to a 

new destination, where they soak up information 

on new cooking techniques, culinary trends, and 

learn firsthand about the producers working at the 

point of origin for the ingredients and products 

that make their way to Abruzzi. 

In previous years Lamers and D’Amico have 

visited New York, Dallas and Toronto (to name 

a few). In late 2016, they embarked on a trek to 

Tuscany, Italy, specifically the Chianti Classico 

Gusmè region. There they visited farms, wineries 

and restaurants — and experienced the exquisite 

delight of traveling through truffle season. 

“We normally don’t go back to the same 

restaurant twice,” admits D’Amico. “But while we 

were away we went back to one place for the same 

Abruzzi owners Rob D’Amico and Chef 

Dave Lamers. The restaurant features a 

welcoming bar (below left) and flexible table 

arrangements to accommodate larger groups 

or intimate dining. Large windows open to the 

street (below right) in warmer months.


dish — Tagallini with butter and 

white truffles — four times. If we 

were still in Tuscany, I’d have been 

there again,” he says with a laugh. 

Beyond the truffles, the trip also fell 

over the grape harvest season, making 

it an ideal time to visit several wineries 

including Tolaini and Villa Sesta (both 

of which have wines proudly available 

on Abruzzi’s wine list) to learn about 

their vintage selections and the soil 

qualities of the region. 

Now back on home turf, what 

D’Amico and Lamers learned has 

become well-employed at Abruzzi. 

Approximately 70 per cent of 

the wine that comprises Abruzzi’s 

extensive list originates in Italy, with 

prices ranging from an affordable $35 to an 

indulgent $285 per bottle. The wines carried 

by the restaurant are not available through 

the LCBO and are specially imported; each 

supplier is individually selected for quality 

and pair-ability with Abruzzi’s menu items. 

1 

2 

Honouring Italian tradition and committing to freshness, all pastas 

are handmade in house (left) and whole lambs and pigs are broken 

down for house-cured pancetta and assorted charcuterie. 

Armed with the knowledge gathered by 

the co-owners on their travels, the service 

staff are always eager to share the stories of 

the regions and producers with patrons. 

It’s also worthwhile to note that the drink 

selection goes well beyond wine. Abruzzi 

boasts an expanded scotch list and a wide 

variety of local craft brewed beer 

from suppliers such as Muskoka 

Brewery and New Limburg Brewing 

Company. 

And in the kitchen, Chef Lamers 

is constantly engaged in the process 

of creation. “Watching his mind 

work as he creates new features is 

like watching art in motion,” says 

D’Amico with a hint of awe. “The 

creativity that comes out shows all 

of his years of experience.” 

At minimum, Abruzzi’s menu 

changes on a monthly basis and 

reflects the offerings of the season. 

However, guests may be surprised at 

any point to discover a 

fresh new feature. 

Abruzzi has an 

extensive list of local 

and sustainable 

suppliers who 

regularly consult with 

1 

DESSERTS: 1 — S’MORES: 

dark chocolate brownie, 

4 

torched marshmallow 

crème, fudge sauce, vanilla 

gelato, graham crumble; 2 — PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE: toasted white chocolate, 

white chocolate gelato, pumpkin seed brittle, spiced anglaise; 3 — APPLE “PIE”: 

cinnamon gelato, poached apples, cinnamon anglaise bourbon caramel, apple 

butter, butter crust crumble, apple chip; 4 — TIRAMISU: lady fingers, amaretto 

zabaglione, chocolate crémeux, espresso caviar, toasted white chocolate.



1 

3 

SALAD: 1 — Loco Fields 

Organic Baby Beets, goat 

cheese panna cotta, beet 

purée, Niagara baco noir 

vinaigrette, arugula, toasted 

hazelnuts 

APPETIZERS: 2 — Crispy Pork 

Belly & Bay Scallops, charred 

Loco Fields carrots, carrot 

puree, kale, spiced jus; 

3— Ricotta Gnudi, Brussels 

sprouts, leeks, shallots, 

5 6 

house lamb pancetta, honey mushrooms, 

sage brown butter 

ENTRÉES: 4 — Everspring Farms Duck Breast, 

braised duck & mascarpone crespelle, Loco 

Fields heirloom carrots & baby beets, kale, 

sour cherry duck jus 

5 — Loco Fields Organic Sunchoke Agnolotti, 

Brussels sprouts, crispy prosciutto, hazelnuts, 

sunchoke chips, Niagara Vinegars baco noir 

reduction 

6 — Pan Roasted Branzino, squash purée, ricotta 

gnocchi, Brussels sprouts, roasted squash 

7 — Sous Vide Cauliflower “Steak,” beluga 

lentils, roasted fennel, charred red onion 

Brussels sprouts, fennel hot sauce, onion, 

thyme & white bean purée 

7 

2 

4 

Lamers, bringing by seasonal and 

surplus items that Chef and his staff 

members are quick to transform 

into a new feature item. “Local 

suppliers will bring items by all the 

time,” says Chef Lamers. “I never 

turn them away and it’s exciting to 

see what they bring.” 

Describing his kitchen as “without 

hierarchy,” Chef Lamers says that he’ll 

never be found “in a big white hat.” 

Instead, he believes in promoting 

inclusion. At Abruzzi, young cooks 

are encouraged to take part in the 

process and to run with their ideas, 

and the resulting items 

are vetted during staff 

tasting sessions before 

being rolled out to the 

floor. 

In 2017, the staff will 

have a new source 

of creativity to play 

with, as a curing meat 

chamber (installed 

in 2016) will have 

finalized its first round of curing. 

“The idea is that we will now be able 

to craft our own charcuterie on site,” 

says Chef Lamers. 

Time will tell 

whether or not the 

charcuterie will 

become a staple. 

(Although it’s hard 

to imagine that it 

won’t!) If it does, it 

will join an esteemed 

hall of other signature 

dishes like the grilled 

octopus, served 

with arugula, green 

olives, green beans, 

grape tomatoes with


romesco sauce and salsa verde; and the 

beef tenderloin, served with crispy potato 

gnocchi, mushrooms, arugula, red onion, 

Loco Fields organic green beans and a red 

wine jus. 

In the winter months, guests can 

expect hearty dishes that make use of root 

vegetables and braised meats. While these 

ingredients may sound like a predictable 

turn for the season, it’s the surprising and 

delectable ways that they are transformed 

that is uniquely Abruzzi. 

Also growing in popularity are several 

vegan and vegetarian options. Abruzzi’s 

menu is versatile and special requests and 

dietary restrictions, including gluten-free 

options, are easily accommodated. 

One dish that has patrons buzzing is 

the cauliflower steak sous vide, which is 

seasoned with a special rub then seared 

until it’s caramelized, before being served 

with beluga lentils, roasted fennel, charred 

red onion, Brussels sprouts, fennel hot 

sauce, onion, thyme and white bean purée. 

The list of local producers that the 

restaurant works with can be reviewed 

on the Abruzzi website. At the time of 

publication, the list includes Loco Fields, 

Everspring Farms, Your Local Butcher 

Shoppe, Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese, Organic 

Ocean, Blanbrook Bison Farm, Edesia Fine 

Foods and Arva Flour Mill. 

If you’re looking for a location that infuses 

stories into Italian-inspired dishes, hosts a 

wine list for every palette, makes everything 

from scratch and believes that your 

experience is the restaurant’s raison d’être, 

you may consider giving Abruzzi a try. 

Abruzzi Ristorante 

119 King Street, London 

519-675-9995 

www.abruzzi.ca 

monday–saturday: 11:30am ’til late 

sunday: closed 

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market 

Saturdays, 9am–1pm, Jan. 14 to April 8 

Our outdoor Farmers’ Market is back and has 

moved indoors, upstairs on the Mezzanine. 

We grow it, raise it, make it & bake it! 

Also, we are offering FREE Cooking Classes 

from 11am-noon upstairs in the Market 

Kitchen. Outstanding local chefs 

demonstrate quick and tasty meals made 

with market-fresh ingredients! 

There is also live music weekly from 

10am-noon. 

Chinese Lunar Festival 

February 18, 11am–4pm 

Come celebrate the Chinese New Year and 

enjoy games, entertainment and good food. 

FREE admission, on the Mezzanine Level. 

TANYA CHOPP is a storyteller and marketing professional. 

Over the past decade, she has enjoyed crafting and amplifying 

meaningful communications across the arts, culture, 

entertainment, health, wellness, and technology industries. 

STEVE GRIME is a frequent contributor to eatdrink. 

See more of his photography and get contact info at www. 

grimesphoto.com..



culinary retail 

Culinary Entrepreneur Dave Cook 

This Old East Village Champion is a key community catalyst 

By BRYAN LAVERY | Photography by NICK LAVERY 

London’s Old East 

Village has become 

an indie platform for 

hot trends in food, 

dining, artisanal crafts, music 

and entertainment. Culinary 

entrepreneur and Old East 

Village (OEV) champion Dave 

Cook is deemed to be among 

the key catalysts for this 

revitalization and renaissance. 

Providing leadership in local 

food innovation and social 

enterprise, Cook’s company, 

The Artisan Group, owns and 

runs several cutting-edge 

OEV operations including the 

London Food Incubator, Fire 

Roasted Coffee Co., Farmers’ & 

Artisans’ Market at Western Fair (FAMWF), 

as well as being co-founder and stakeholder 

in the bean-to-bar chocolate company 

Habitual Chocolate and owner/operator of 

the seasonal Masonville Farmers’ Market. 

Dave Cook launched The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. in 2006 

A Food Desert 

In 2007, OEV was assessed as a food desert 

in a study co-authored by Dr. Jason Gilliland 

(HEAL & Department of Geography at 

Western and Old East Village Business 

The London Food Incubator is on Dundas Street near Adelaide. The building 

houses a cafe, grocery store and space for small business start-ups


Dave Cook surveys the 

progress at 874 Dundas 

Street (at Ontario), future 

home to a restaurant, 

craft beer pub and Fire 

Roasted Coffee Café. 

Improvement Association (OEVBIA) 

executive board member); it was later 

discovered in a follow-up analysis that the 

development of the FAMWF significantly 

raised the selection and availability of 

affordable foods in an area that had 

previously no access to healthy food choices. 

Farmers’ markets perform a significant 

role in local economic development by 

facilitating a location for small business 

incubation and generating an economic 

multiplier effect by increasing the returns 

arising from the redistribution of new 

spending and consumer consumption 

within the community. 

Maintaining his entrepreneurial vision, 

Cook established connections between 

food retailing, healthy food access and 

community economic development that 

he strategically leveraged. On the heels of 

his emerging success as one of Ontario’s 

finest independent specialty coffee roasters 

and farmers’ market operators, a paradigm 

Hey Cupcake! 

where art is a piece of cake 

With a whimsical and clever sense of taste and style, 

Hey Cupcake is a small, family-run business, creating 

the freshest and finest cookies, cupcakes and 

custom cakes, made in house, 

with tender loving 

care, just for you! 

Visit us online at: 

www.heycupcake.ca 

OR at our bakery located at: 

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North, London 

519-433-CAKE (2253) 

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7 

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4 

ORDER 

EARLY FOR 

VALENTINE’S 

DAY 

& YOUR SPECIAL 

OCCASIONS 

Southwestern Ontario’s Most Dynamic 

Destination for Outdoor Adventure! 

Watch for Our New Chalet 

coming Nov. 2017! 

519-657-8822 

689 Griffith Street, London 

www.bolermountain.com



shift gradually occurred and Cook 

evolved into a stalwart neighbourhood 

crusader, revitalizer and economic 

developer. What distinguishes 

Cook’s social enterprises is that their 

mission combines responsible forprofit 

business activities with social, 

environmental and community 

objectives. 

Some scenes inside the Somerville Building, home to the Old 

East Village Grocer, The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. Café, and the 

London Food Incubator. 

The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. 

Launching The Fire Roasted Coffee 

Co. in 2006, Cook roasted coffee beans 

in his garage before introducing Fire 

Roasted Coffee at a Saturday market 

stall at the FAMWF. Cook wanted 

independence from the corporate 

treadmill trajectory and eventually 

purchased the market operation 

from the original owner. This was 

the foundation of an entrepreneurial 

vision that manifested in Cook 

becoming a cutting-edge business 

leader and innovator of sequential 

concepts and business processes. 

In a prime downtown heritage site 

known as the Wallace Building, at 

King and Talbot streets, Cook opened 

his flagship Fire Roasted Café in 2013 

after a substantial renovation. This was 

followed by the opening of a satellite 

café in Wortley Village, which he has 

since franchised. 

Cook continues to renovate 

the building at 874 Dundas Street 

(directly across from the FAMWF). 

The repurposed premises are slated 

to become home to a restaurant, craft 

beer pub and Fire Roasted Coffee, 

offering a café with a patio on the west 

side of the building. Accompanied by 

his faithful bulldog Buck, Cook resides 

in a renovated second floor apartment 

above the storefront so he can maintain 

a close proximity to his projects. 

Creating environments for social 

enterprise, Cook leverages his 

networks, expertise and interest 

in social justice to establish 

collaborations and socially-minded 

business practices. Fire Roasted Coffee 

has established direct trade with 

producing countries to benefit the 

growers in more meaningful ways. 

Over the past decade, Cook has 

achieved success at the FAMWF.

№ 63 | January/February 2017 www.eatdrink.ca 21 

Dave Cook at home with his faithful bulldog Buck 

Much of that accomplishment has been 

based on internal collaborations with longtime 

vendors and enterprising business 

owners like Jeff Pastorius, co-owner of On 

the Move Organics, The Root Cellar and 

London Brewing Company, Luis Rivas of 

True Taco, Rick Peori of All ’Bout Cheese, 

Philippe Lehner of Habitual Chocolate and 

Yam Gurung of Momo’s at the Market. 

In more recent years, the OEVBIA and its 

advisors have been working on an economic 

development plan to generate synergy 

and growth by kick-starting initiatives that 

capitalize on the success of the FAMWF as 

an informal food-business incubator and 

local agri-food hub. 

The London Food Incubator 

Recently, Cook established the London 

Food Incubator in the 14,000-square-foot 

Sommerville Building (formerly Somerville 

Paper Box Limited) at 630 Dundas Street. 

Building on the strategy of developing an 

agri-food sector for the OEV retail strip, 

Cook refurbished and utilized the existing 

infrastructure for shared space. Culinary 

entrepreneurs are able to set-up and 

develop in much the same way vendors 

mitigated start-up risks and grew their food 

businesses at the FAMWF. 

In the initial stage, Cook has provided 

space for small business incubation and 

food start-ups, the Old East Village Grocer 

(OEVG), and The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. 

café and production facilities. This project 

was initiated in part by the need for new 

roasting and packaging facilities for Fire 

Roasted Coffee, which had outgrown its 

premises at the market. 

The OEV Grocer is an independent 

grocery store that offers healthy and 

affordable food products, and doubles as a 

retail training space, providing customized 

training opportunities to persons with 

disabilities. The project received one 

of the first loans from Verge Capital, 

a London-based loan fund for social 

enterprises. It is a project of ATN Access 

Inc., a not-for-profit registered charity that 

provides opportunities for individuals with 

disabilities to gain access to employment, 

reach their educational goals, and improve 

the quality of their lives. 

Businesses like Heather Pirsky’s Naturally 

Vegan, Kim Banma’s gluten-free bakery 

Urban Oven, and David Glen’s Glen 

Farms Herbs and Preserves jumped at the 

opportunity to set up shop in the London 

Food Incubator. Joining these start-ups is 

Meals on Wheels, a non-profit providing 

food education and a delivery hub where 

volunteers pick up hot meals and distribute 

them to hundreds of households across 

London. 

If specific sets of traits are necessary to 

becoming a serial social entrepreneur and 

prospering as a visionary, risk tolerance, 

ambition and drive seem to be at the top of 

the list. You also need tenacity, intuition, 

and the ability to communicate your vision 

effectively. Cook is a creative problem 

solver, adventurer and a true polymath who 

has an innate ability to not only see the 

larger picture but recognize new and viable 

business opportunities. 

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at 

Large. 

NICK LAVERY is owner of Take5 Digital, a London-based 

video production company. Reach him at nick@t5digital.com.


road trips 

Looking for Romance? 

Get away to Couples Resort in Muskoka 

by JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE 


SPONSORED BY 

Is winter romance on your to-do list 

for Valentine’s Day? Celebrate your 

love and all things Canadian for 

the country’s 150th anniversary by 

spending your precious get-away time in 

our home and native land. Not much says 

Canada more than Algonquin Park. And 

here’s a tip — you don’t need to sleep in a 

tent or a paddle a canoe to experience it in 

style, with your special person. 

Some call it glamping — glamour and 

camping. You can experience it year-round 

at Couples Resort at the eastern entrance 

to Algonquin Park in the village of Whitney, 

Ontario. Enjoy of the beauty of Algonquin 

then return to your own cabin or room, 

complete with private hot tub, sauna, steam 

shower and full service dining. Firewood is 

delivered to your door. Really, as a former 

Girl Guide, this was some kind of Shangri-La 

for a Canadian looking for a break from the 

city without roughing it. 

It is important to note that this is a resort 

for couples only — not for families, not for a 

girls’ getaway weekend, not for taking your 

great aunt or favourite schnauzer. It’s tables 

for two, where couples show up dressed for 

dinner which means a suit jacket and tie 

for men, a dress for women. While this may 

strike some as incongruent with a park-like 

setting, this is exactly how Couples Resort 

has unabashedly operated for decades. “It’s 

a great place for birthdays, anniversaries or 

for anyone looking for some time to reconnect 

with their partner,” says John Sorensen, 

second generation owner of the resort. “We 

have everything — all you need is time, two 

or three days is perfect, to be together.” 

Photo courtesy of Couples Resort


lexusoflondon.com



leave the resort there are seasonally 

appropriate activities including 

cross-country skiing, outdoor 

bonfires, indoor games room, 

trails, boating/fishing, biking, 

etc. Many prefer to simply rest in 

their cabin by the fire. For deeper 

relaxation there is an in house spa 

(by appointment). In season enjoy 

the outdoor swimming pool, and 

tennis and basketball courts. 

In the dining room guests have a 

classic European style experience 

with a variety of offerings and daily 

specials for breakfast and dinner 

(lunch is not included but can be 

purchased). Eggs Benedict, cream 

cheese French toast and healthier 

options await. At 

dinner enjoy classic 

rack of lamb, 

Private cabins (top) that 

face the lake are one of 

the accommodations 

options. Cabins include 

in-room Jacuzzi tubs 

(left), steam showers, a 

sauna and an outdoor 

hot-tub, making for a 

cozy spa retreat. Relax 

by the in-room fireplace 

(below) after a day spent 

enjoying the outdoors. 

The Resort is considered small in terms of 

classification. There are luxury cabins that face 

Galeairy Lake: ours had its own sauna, steam 

shower, indoor jacuzzi, on-deck exterior hot tub 

and steam shower, along with a natural wood 

burning fireplace, king size poster bed, two types 

of coffee makers and a bar fridge that was stocked 

with a filled ice bucket (nice touch). Breakfast can 

be delivered to your room. All guests sign up for a 

full hot breakfast and dinner as part of their stay. If 

you don’t want a cabin there are more traditional 

rooms in a hotel-like setting, with balconies. Some 

face the lake others look over the large property 

which includes its own hiking trail and art gallery. 

Sorensen says the resort welcomes about 10,000 

guests a year, with the peak in summer, although 

fall and Valentine’s are also busy. “We like to say it 

is Valentine’s Day every day here. We take care of 

people so they can have a good time.” Guests can 

use a complimentary park entrance pass if they wish 

to hike or experience Algonquin. If they prefer not to


fish, steak, or pasta. All guests can select two 

appetizers, an entrée and dessert as part of the 

package. Executive chef Ronnie Coppens enjoys 

creating daily specials, which are a nice change 

of pace for couples staying for more than a few 

days. Couples Resort has an extensive wine list 

and is on the Wine Spectator accredited list. 

Guests can also bring their own wine and have 

it served without a corkage fee. 

This niche resort is celebrating its 50th 

anniversary in 2017. It clearly has found its spot 

in the marketplace. It’s a five to six hour drive 

from London, depending on how many stops 

you want to make along the way. We enjoyed 

visiting Muskoka Brewery in Bracebridge and 

Muskoka Coffee in Huntsville along the trip. 

Depending on the season, stops at the Park 

Visitor Centre and Logging Museum are well 

worth the time. As well, there are numerous 

day hikes for spectacular views. 

Couples Resort 

139 Galeairy Lake Road, Whitney ON 

1-866-202-1179 

www.couplesresort.ca 

JANE ANTONIAK and BRUCE FYFE are regular 

contributors of culinary travel stories to eatdrink. They were 

guests of Couples Resort, which did not review or approve 

the contents of this article. 

Every table is a table for two at the Couples Resort.



The BUZZ ... new and notable 

Chef Thomas Waite of boutique catering 

company The In Home Chef is anticipating 

opening Spruce on Wellington January 

27th, in the premises formerly occupied by 

Willie’s Café. Waite promises that the restaurant will 

provide patrons with an innovative dining experience 

“unlike anything that London has seen before.” Waite 

will also launch a series of weekly cooking classes in 

early spring. The In Home Chef product lines currently 

available at Remark will be available for purchase at the 

new location. www.theinhomechef 

Approaching its 10th year, chef Paul Harding’s TOOK 

(The Only on King), with its fully realized farm-to-table 

philosophy, devoted acknowledgement of the local 

terroir, and support of local farmers and producers, 

ceased operations in November. Chef Harding has joined 

The Root Cellar crew as executive chef, and will be 

working closely alongside chefs Paul Paschink and 

Shayna Patterson. www.rootcellarorganic.ca 

Blu Duby owners Joe and Cheryl Duby have built a 

diverse and loyal clientele by combining an accessible 

menu and wine list with upbeat ambience. The Dubys 

have opened a second Blu Duby on Fanshawe Park Road 

just west of Wonderland Road. The new restaurant 

features the same great menu and service that you’ve 

come to expect from their downtown London location. 

www.bluduby.com 

The Tea Lounge recently opened at 268 Piccadilly 

Street. Patrons can experience exceptional quality, 

ethically-sourced teas from around the world. Enjoy 

contemporary or traditional style table service. Chinese 

‘grandpa style’ is another option on offer, or you can 

simply get a quick cup to go. A selection of healthy 

snacks and baked goods by well-known local bakeries 

like Petit Paris, Boho Bakeshop and Bliss are 

available to take with your tea, whether you’re in the 

mood for a tasty treat, wholesome ingredients, or have 

food sensitivities.www.beteas.com/tea-lounge/ 

One of our favourite diners closed last year. Toddle Inn 

opened with a simple menu and a large, horseshoeshaped 

counter in 1947. In the refurbished premises 

on Richmond Row is Renato Fucci’s Italian-inspired 

Renato’s. The restaurant is currently serving an allday 

breakfast and lunch with offerings featured on a 

blackboard menu. The menu features items with an 

Italian flair such as eggs carbonara, cannoli-stuffed 

French toast and tagliatelle with Bolognese. Now that 

their liquor licence is in place, Renato’s is open in the 

evenings with a dinner menu of Italian specialities. 

Heather Pinsky’s Naturally Vegan Company is 

London’s newest vegan kitchen. Pinsky has been a 

vegetarian for over 36 years and vegan for the last seven 

years. She recently opened a lunch/catering/wholesale/ 

teaching kitchen at 630 Dundas Street in the London 

Food Incubator. Her focus is healthy and “yummy” 

vegan food with a particular focus on salads, sandwiches 

and sweets.www.naturallyvegancompany.com 

The upscale Wisdom Café, Teashop and Japanese 

Creperie in Old East Village offers over 130 loose leaf 

teas and a large selection of tea pots and accessories. 

Unlike their French brethren, these savoury crepes are 

less sweet and are served in a cone shape for easy eating. 

Try the Applewood smoked ham crepe with turkey 

melted cheddar and Brie. 

Theo and Gerda Korthof have sold the Artisan Bakery 

in Old East Village to Paulette Elie. Kaleb and Richard 

Elie will carry on crafting mouth-watering breads and 

savoury meat pies. Assistant baker Anna Helmers will 

make, pastries, quiches and other products. The new


Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market at the Western Fair and St. 

Jacobs Farmers’ Market in Kitchener. There will be updated 

hours at their retail location at 864 Dundas Street. 

Shawn and Shannon Slade, owners of Booch 

Organic Kombucha, are specialists in the art and 

science of fermented foods. The current Booch brewing 

facility is not only being used for production, but as a 

retail outlet where kombucha can be purchased on tap 

and sampled at a tasting bar. Booch has popped up in 

about 175 retailers and restaurants in the past year. There 

are plans for expansion in the new year into a larger 

space. The present location would remain as a retail 

outlet. www.boochorganickombucha.com 

The London Wine &Food Show returns January 19th 

-21st with more food, wine and entertainment than 

ever before. In its 12th year the show promises to bring 

Londoners an enticing mix of local restaurants, wineries, 

craft beers, and spirits. There will taste seminars, stage 

presentations and entertainment. Sip, sample and savour 

at London’s Wine & Food Show! www.westernfairdistrict. 

com/wine-food-show 

London Brewing Co-operative has expanded 

production and relocated to Burbrook Place in Old East 

Village. The new home of this worker-owned brewery 

includes a taproom, retail space, and a larger brewing 

system. LBC shares space here with On The Move 

Organics, a local organic food delivery company. The 

change facilitates opportunities for visitors to better 

understand the value of local ingredients and to taste 

the benefits that they bring to the beer and other 

products. www.londonbrewing.ca 

Pure Bon: A Food Shop opened in Wortley Village to 

raves in early December but, due to extensive damage 

caused by water and a collapsed ceiling, they had 

to close for repairs. Pure Bon is expected to resume 

operations and have its official Grand Opening in mid- 

January. www.purebon.ca 

VegFest 2016, held at the Western Fair District in 

London on November 5, had over 120 vendors and 7,000 

attendees. www.vegfestlondon.com 

Felipe Gomes ceased Aroma Restaurant operations 

at the end of December. Gomes, who was unable to 

find a buyer for the 12-year-old landmark restaurant, 

said walking away from the business was a life or death 

decision for him. Gomes suffered a heart attack and 

underwent quadruple bypass surgery last year. We 

wish him good health and best wishes after his long 

successful run at Aroma. 

Globally Local, billed as Canada’s first vegan fast 

food restaurant, has opened at 252 Dundas Street 

in downtown London, right across from the Central 

Public Library. James McInnes had success earlier this 

Celebrating 5 years, The Springs 

Restaurant welcomes Chef Geoff Tew. 

Visit soon and try the new menu, 

featuring local Ontario Rack of Lamb, 

Ontario Pork Chop, Venison Carpaccio, 

and inspiring new vegetarian options. 

Join Us for 

Themed Dinner 

310 Springbank Drive, London 

Nights in January 

519.657.1100 

www.thespringsrestaurant.com 

Hand-crafted 

indulgence 

Restaurant & Bar 

226 658 0999 

soloportstanley.com


LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30 

DINNER from 5pm daily 

432 Richmond Street 

at Carling • London 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course prix fixe 

menu option 

www.davidsbistro.ca 

142 fullarton at richmond 

year when he developed the “Big McInnes,” a vegan 

interpretation of McDonald’s Big Mac, which he offered 

on the menu of his McVegans food truck and at local 

festivals. www.globallylocal.ca 

Cilantro Mediterranean Cuisine opened at 525 

Richmond Street in mid-December, beside Black 

Trumpet. The sit-in or take-out offering includes Middle 

Eastern fare with items like shawarma, falafel, tabboulih, 

hummus and fattoush, as well as Italian-inspired dishes 

such as chicken parmesan. www.cilantrocuisine.ca 

London Training Centre is pleased to be offering a 

six-month culinary program that includes an 8-week 

work placement. Commencing in March, this interactive 

course will offer participants the opportunity to gain 

experience and fundamental and relevant skills and 

knowledge for a career in the hospitality industry. In the 

past seven years London Training Centre has developed a 

successful teaching model that integrates basic cooking 

techniques and knowledge with a broader, sustainable 

use of regional, seasonal products. The program will 

venture beyond the classic style of cuisine and explore 

a more intrinsic approach to the cooking. Along with 

receiving the combined theoretical and corresponding 

hands-on practical experience, the students will engage 

in open discussions with local food artisans, chefs and 

like-minded professionals to further enhance their 

experience. www.londontraining.on.ca 

! 

The new 10Eighteen coffee bar in Old East Village 

specializes in hand crafted, fresh pour over coffee 

and espresso roasted by O’Joe. They offer something 

for everyone, including food, craft beer and wine. 

www.10eighteen.ca 

Andrew Fleet, Executive Director of Growing Chefs! 

Ontario, has announced that the former Auberge 

Restaurant at King and Maitland will be the new 

home for the ground-breaking program that unites 

chefs, growers, educators and community members 

in children’s food education projects. The enclosed 

sunrooms, dining rooms and bar will be turned into 

teaching areas. Upstairs features an additional three 

intimate rooms that can be used for private functions, 

corporate meetings and teaching facilities. There are also 

plans to transform the outdoor terrace into a teaching 

garden. www.growingchefsontario.ca 

Your favourite new Ontario brewing companies of 2016, as 

polled by the Ontario Beverage Network, are Cowbell 

Brewing Co. (Blyth), Stray Dog Brewing Co. (Orleans) 

and Anderson Craft Ales (London). www.momandhops.ca 

Kiss the Cook owner Lawrence Burden’s passion is 

searching for the highest-quality kitchenware from around 

the world — and bringing it to your kitchen. Kiss the 

Cook provides a wide range of cookware, kitchen gadgets, 

and giftware, and offers a popular bridal registry. Chris


Squire, who was also partly responsible for dreaming up 

the name Kiss the Cook, is Chef-in-Residence and, along 

with a variety of top-notch local chefs, offers cooking 

classes. www.kissthecookonline.com 

Luis Rivas and family continue to provide Latin flavour 

and ambience at the Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market at 

Western Fair and at True Taco Authentic Comedor 

Latino on Dundas Street near the Aeolian Hall. The 

cantina, with vibrant red walls and plenty of comfortable 

seating areas including a private room, is licensed. www. 

truetaco.com 

The Twisted Toque Social Grill, a Canadian-themed 

franchise restaurant pilot, is anticipated to open around 

Feb. 1st on the ground floor of the former Park Lane Hotel 

at 186 King St., in the space previously occupied by The 

Brass Door. Executive Chef David Taylor will feature 

a menu that will include such emblematic offerings as 

back bacon, poutine, East Coast cod and lobster, and 

West Coast salmon in the 110-seat restaurant. 

Stratford 

Stratford Winterfest runs January 13–15. The goal 

is to provide families in our area with a high quality 

and fun winter weekend at no cost. Some of the 

events include Apple Land Train Rides, Ice Carving 

Demonstrations, Bethel Puppet Show, Big Screen Movie 

Your love of all things Italian begins at 

OPEN SUNDAY FOR DINNER & 

MON–SAT FOR LUNCH & DINNER 

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com 

GREAT FOOD IN THE HEART 

OF WORTLEY VILLAGE 

162 Wortley Road, London ON N6C 3P7 

info@plantmatterkitchen.com 

519.660.3663 

#PLANTMATTERKITCHEN 

GOOD FOOD FIRST 

ORGANIC, VEGAN, DELICIOUS 

BRUNCH, LUNCH, DINNER, DRINKS 

plantmatterkitchen.com


Night, Snowshoeing, Petting Zoo, Pancake Breakfast, 

Outdoor Skating and Ice Building Blocks. www. 

stratfordwinterfest.ca 

There are lots of events for food lovers coming up in the 

next few months: Blues & Booze Tasting (January 14); 

The Hunter’s Feast at The Bruce (January 21); Local 

Beer & Cheese Pairing (January 28); Spanish Wine 

& Cheese Pairing (February 4); French Cheese and 

Wine Pairing (February 18). For details on these events 

and outstanding ideas for winter getaways, visit www. 

visitstratford.ca. 

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table 

Hormone & Drug-Free 

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken 

THE VILLAGE 

MEAT SHOP 

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY 

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR 

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb 

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken 

• Glengyle Farm Organics 

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm 

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca 


During the Market Square redevelopment in Stratford, 

please continue to support the many great businesses in 

the area. During construction, Revel has a back door and 

you can enter via their patio. The George Street lot beside 

Raja is often empty and the parking meters offer longer 

term parking. Erie St through Allen’s Alley adds a few more 

paces to your day, providing the added benefit of exercise 

and fresh air, and as always Cooper Site has free parking. 

Revival House will be closed for a seasonal break 

until January 27th except for private events. Stratford’s 

premiere live music, wedding and events venue re-opens 

for “StringBone presents LIVE at Revival House” 

series on January 27th with Samantha Martin + Delta 

Sugar. Other StringBone events include: February 24th 

with two- time Juno nominee Alysha Brilla, March 

24th with The Small Glories and April 7th with Craig 

Cardiff. On February 12th, enjoy a Valentine’s Spring 

Quartet and on February 19th, the Sunday Brunch 

Concert Series restarts, with Stratford Symphony 

Orchestra. www.revival.house.ca 

Attend the 2nd Annual Revival House Craft Beer Festival on 

Saturday February 25th with food and beer pairings and 

live music. Meet and greet with brew masters and beer 

representatives from Ontario Craft Breweries including 

Black Swan Brewery, Railway City Brewery and Revival’s 

line up of 13 Craft Beer taps. A”Black Swan Brewery” Beer 

Dinner to follow the event. www.revival.house.ca 

The Stratford Chefs School invites you to explore 

International Inspirations as chef students interpret 

the culinary styles of renowned International chefs. 

Courses are carefully paired with selected wines and are 

served at the new Stratford Chefs School Kitchens, 

136 Ontario Street. The dinner series is offered Tuesday 

through Saturday January 10 through March 9. www. 

stratfordchef.com 

There are some new spirits to enjoy in Stratford. 

Junction 56 Distillery is proudly local and following 

tradition while leveraging modern ideas to make unique 

and delicious products without shortcuts. Stop by on 

focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients 

A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) Caterer 

serving London & Area with different and unique ideas 

Corporate 

Catering 

www.heirloomcateringlondon.com 519-719-9030 

Specialists


Saturdays at 11 a.m. for a tour and taste and purchase 

some local spirits to stock your home bar with some local 

flavour. www.junction56.ca 

Around Our Region 

Congratulations to the winners of the 2016 Ontario Tourism 

Awards of Excellence. Oxford County Cheese Trail has 

won the Ontario Culinary Tourism Leadership Award. In 

developing the Cheese Trail, Tourism Oxford worked with 

23 partners to develop a guide for visitors to experience 

what the County has to offer. Each trail partner covers a 

specific need of visitors including dining, experiences, 

and accommodations, takeaway items to enjoy at home 

and, of course, cheeses. The partners have truly embraced 

the concept resulting in 20 new business relationships 

across Oxford County. Ingersoll Cheese & Agricultural 

Museum won the Top Small Museum in Ontario award, as 

voted by people in the first ever “Ontario’s Choice Award” 

contest conducted by Attractions Ontario. 

Windsor Essex Pelee Island & EPIC Wineries won 

the Culinary Tourism Experience Award. As noted by The 

Hon. Eleanor McMahon (Minister of Tourism, Culture 

and Sport) in an address to the winners, “Your work to 

advance culinary tourism, develop exciting experiences, 

and innovative marketing plans help to attract visitors 

from all over the world to Ontario. Your successes 

Celebrate 

Valentine’s 

Day! 

February 14 

Always Available 

for Caterings! 

Closed January. 

Reopening in February. 

Reservations Recommended. 

519.238.6224 

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend 

www.finearestaurant.com 

Where fresh matters. 

Visit us to sample over 60 flavours of oils and balsamics. 

Experience savoury white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy 

paired with the freshest oils from across the globe. 

The 

Pristine 

Bottling fresh in store since 2012. 

live 

Tasting Bar 

All Natural • Gluten Free • Non-GMO • Healthy • Delicious 

462 Cheapside Street @ Maitland | London | 519-433-4444 

www.thepristineolive.ca


contribute to a dynamic tourism industry that stimulates 

our economy and has a positive impact on communities 

across the province.” 

Thinking of a trip to wine country? It’s not just a warm 

weather activity. Snow will soon begin to blanket the 

vineyards, towns are being decorated for the holidays, 

wineries are bustling with activities and winemakers are 

anxiously waiting for the perfect temperature to harvest 

grapes for Icewine (-8°C). Wine Country Ontario’s 

website is a great place to start your planning. www. 

winecountryontario.ca. 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm 

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am 

32 


Ontario’s craft spirit makers have been engaged in an 

uphill battle to amend archaic alcohol taxation laws 

and make operating a distillery in this province less 

difficult. In November 2016, Finance Minister Charles 

Sousa introduced a bill to revamp these tax laws, which 

includes a staggering new 61.5% sales tax for stores 

owned and operated by Ontario’s small and independent 

distilleries. The Ontario Craft Distillers Association 

(OCDA) calls the new tax “a major blow to the 

sustainability of distilleries working to provide Ontario 

farm-to-table, grain-to-glass spirits” and a move which 

they say “ignores the lessons of what works and what 

doesn’t from Ontario’s own wine and beer tax policy.” 

Noting the accelerated growth in Ontario’s craft beer 

industry, the OCDA points to encouraging tax laws that 

helped make that possible, and asks why comparable 

measures can’t be introduced for distillers. 

Earlier this year, Ontario made it illegal for employers 

to take employees’ tips and other gratuities, except in 

limited circumstances. Employers are not allowed to 

make deductions from tips for things like spillage, breakage, 

losses or damage. These rules affect employers and 

employees covered by the Employment Standards Act, 2000 

in workplaces where tips and other gratuities are received 

— such as at bars, restaurants and catering businesses. 

www.labour.gov.on.ca/english/es/topics/tips.php 

We want your 

BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events 

that you’d like us to share? Every issue, eatdrink 

reaches more than 50,000 readers across 

Southwestern Ontario in print, 

and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or 

connect directly with our Social Media Editor 

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Upbeat Lunches | Intimate Dinners | Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking 

Delicious 

Love! 


Feb. 13 & 14 

bistro & caterer 

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 | www.blackfriarsbistro.com 

Reservations 

Required


eatdrink 

2016 London 

Wine & Food Show 

Profiles of 

Excellence 

SUPPLEMENT 


Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse

eatdrink 

Profiles of Excellence 

Bred for Taste 


Grand Bend ON 

DARK HORSE ESTATE WINERY 

is Huron County’s exciting new destination. 

Opened in the summer of 2016, the 85-acre 

estate includes a 20-acre vineyard. The 

31,000-square-foot winery is equipped with 

state-of-the-art winemaking technology 

and a guest area complete with an expansive 

full service banquet and conference space. 

Located next door to the popular Huron 

Country Playhouse, this is another outstanding 

reason to visit Ontario’s West Coast. 

17 Wines 3 Tiers 

Fruit forward and approachable wines. Care and 

concern is taken from vineyard to bottle to ensure the 

production of consistent and balanced wines true to 

variety and place. 

A group of wines defined by their power of expression. The 

One Horse Town wines are often selected from the barrels 

and tanks that demonstrate great intensity and complexity 

offering an opportunity to experience concentrated and 

interesting wines at competitive price points. 

The highest expression of Ontario’s best known 

varietals or blends. A group of wines for which 

no expense is spared. The ultimate expression 

of balance, complexity, depth 

and interest from DHEW. The 

lots of wines used in the final 

blends are selected from 

the best barrels and tanks to 

ensure exceptional quality 

and a consistent expression 

of style. These wines are only 

produced when the wines 

warrant it.


eatdrink 

Weddings & Events 

“A winery is more 

than just a place 

where wines are 

made.” 

A winery is a place where memorable 

experiences are created that will last a 

lifetime. The picturesque countryside of 

Huron County is an idyllic backdrop. Add 

in a newly constructed premier facility — 

complete with fully-equipped banquet 

amenities — and the stage is set for an 

event for the ages. Dark Horse Estate 

Winery makes it all come together with 

superior service, and exceptional wines. 

A dedicated team of professionals will 

orchestrate and execute a flawless event 

every step of the way. 

A range of wedding, private and corporate 

packages are available. The impressive 

Vineyard Ballroom can be enjoyed with 

small and larger groups, up to 300 guests. 

The Cellar Reception Hall, another 

stunning space, can handle up to 80 

guests. For more intimate gatherings, the Barrel Cellar provides an 

authentic winery experience for up to 25 guests. And the serene VIP 

Room, with its own patio, can be configured for up to 20 guests. 

Contact the Events Team to book your 

personal tour of this premier facility. 

info@darkhorseestatewinery.com 

Wedding photo courtesy of BeanBot Photography 

Wine Tours & Tastings 

Wine Tasting Daily 11am to close 

Wine by the Glass Daily 11am to close 

Public Wine Tours Daily 11am and 2pm* 

Private VIP Tours & Tastings by reservation 

Experience all that Dark Horse Estate Winery has to offer 

by becoming a member of the exclusive Wine Club. 

* NOTE: For groups of 10 or more, reservations are required. 

We are an event facility, so please call ahead to ensure Tours are running.

eatdrink 


Upcoming Events 

Discover Your Palate 

Enjoy wine and food pairings as you tour around the winery. 

Five food stations will be provided by: 

• Clock Tower Inn (Strathroy) 

• Eddington’s of Exeter (Exeter) 

• FINE: A Restaurant (Grand Bend) 

• Grind Café & Catering (Sarnia) 

• Luv Scarlet Catering (Exeter) 

Saturday, February 18, 2017 

Winemaker’s Dinner 

A special evening featuring Dark Horse Estate Wines paired with 

locally-sourced culinary delights. The four-course dinner complete 

with wine pairings is guaranteed to be a feast for your senses. 

Saturday, March 4, 2017. Limited availability. 

Murder Mystery Dinner 

“Who did it?” will be fun to figure out, but there will be no 

question that the dinner and wine pairings will be delightful. 

Saturday, May 6, 2017. Tickets on sale February 1. 

Taste for Yourself 

At the Winery 

Stop by the winery and pick up a bottle or a case! Just minutes 

away from the gorgeous shores of Lake Huron, enjoy the 

relaxing ambiance and discover what is new. 

At the LCBO 

As of March 2017, enjoy the convenience of buying Dark Horse 

products at the LCBO. Local stores, and select outlets across 

Southern Ontario, will be stocking BRASH, our White Blend, 

and SINFUL, our Red Blend. Two great wines from the 

province’s newest wine region. 

Order Online 

You can now order Dark Horse wines through our website. 

Prompt delivery is available anywhere in Ontario. 

New Release Dates 

Under the One Horse Town label, Dark Horse 

Estate Winery is releasing two new wines in 

April, 2017: 

2015 OHT Cabernet Franc 

• Bright raspberry, floral, spice and toast 

aromas and flavours. Medium full with great 

structure and balance. 

2016 OHT Pinot Grigio 

• Crisp and clean with peach and apple 

aromas with peach, citrus and mineral 

flavours and a refreshing finish. 

Grand Bend 

Dark Horse 

Estate Winery 

HOURS OF OPERATION 

WINTER HOURS (October–May) 

Thursday–Sunday 11–6 

SUMMER HOURS (June–Sept) 

Monday–Thursday 10-6* 

Friday & Saturday 10-9 

Sundays & Holidays 11-5 

* Closed Mondays in September 

DARK HORSE ESTATE WINERY 

P.O. Box 460, 70665 B Line 

Grand Bend ON 

519-238-5000 

www.darkhorseestatewinery.com 

info@darkhorseestatewinery.com


eatdrink 

Eat & Drink at the Water’s Edge 

Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse 

SMACKWATER JACK’S TAPHOUSE offers a front 

row seat to one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world, 

but that sensational show is only part of the attraction. 

Literally hanging over the water on Grand Bend’s River 

Road with a view of the mouth of the river opening into 

Lake Huron, an expansive two-tiered patio canopied by 

umbrellas and dotted with fresh flowers is the place to 

be — day and night — all summer (with propane torches 

tempering the nip in the air on either side of the warm 

weather). The 

interior presents 

its own charm 

as well. Once 

an old fish hut 

sitting vacant, the 

space has been 

refreshed and 

reinvigorated without losing its rustic 

allure and warm character. 

Comfort by Design 

With about three decades of experience 

as a home designer and builder, Brad 

Oke spotted the building and was not 

daunted by the project it presented. 

“It was destiny,” he says. Inspired, he 

determined the best use of space and 

set to work. The roof was raised, floors 

re-poured, insulation added and two 

bar areas were delineated. The result 

is an atmosphere that is energetic and 

sophisticated but still comfortably 

beachside. 

A 40-foot dock allows for easy 

entry to the restaurant from the 

water, but Oke identified a more 

critical access problem. Summer 

crowds can make parking a challenge, 

and to help ensure safe fun, Oke came 

up with a unique solution that has 

been widely praised and enjoyed 

by patrons since Day One in 2012. As 

you approach Smackwater Jack’s,

eatdrink 


don’t be alarmed by the ominous presence of a big 

white ambulance. Its days of medical emergencies are 

over. Oke purchased the decommissioned vehicle and 

turned it into a “patron transfer service,” now known 

affectionately as the Smackulance, so that customers 

may have safe transport. Pick-ups can be arranged by 

phone and at the end of their visit guests are dropped 

off at their doorsteps, for free, anywhere across the 

Grand Bend area and up to Port Franks. This shuttle 

service proved so popular that a second vehicle was 

brought on board. 

The Smackulance — a decommissioned ambulance that 

serves as a fun and free customer shuttle vehicle. 

A Local Kitchen 

One could argue that Smackwater Jack’s success has 

been fuelled by a commitment 

to quality food and 

service as much as any 

other factor. Communityminded 

Brad Oke, who 

now shares ownership 

and operational oversight 

with his son Andy Oke, 

established relationships 

with outstanding local 

producers right from the 

get-go. Seasonal produce 

comes in as soon as it’s 

available. Beef comes from 

Metzger’s, pork from The 

Whole Pig, turkey from 

Hayter’s Farm, all just up the road. 

Canada Craft on Draft 

Enjoy a wide assortment of craft, domestic and imported 

beers, on draft and by the bottle, including two unique 

varieties found only at Smackwater Jack’s. “Smack 

Attack” and “Just Joe” are custom concoctions brewed 

exclusively for the restaurant by the Stratford Brewing 

Chef Jill St-Amour (centre) hams things up with her excited 

crew after Smackwater Jack’s won “Best Food Booth” at the 

2016 London Wine & Food Show. 

Chef Jill St-Amour takes inspiration from the 

local ingredients with 

a seasonally-inspired 

menu. Everything is made 

from scratch on site, with 

quality and presentation 

upheld as kitchen 

hallmarks. Expect locallysmoked 

charcuterie 

with pickled veggies 

and preserves, as well as 

great steaks and a variety 

of innovative burgers, 

sandwiches, pastas and 

salads. And don’t forget 

Smack’s Famous Fish & 

Chips! There is something 

for everyone, including a sure-to-please Kids Menu. 

Co. (Smack Attack is the secret ingredient in the 

Taphouse’s much-loved Poutine gravy!) 

Fans of local beers will be well satisfied. All 18 Smack 

taps are dedicated to Ontario craft beers, with another 

one delivering fresh Ontario cider. With over 100 beers 

available in total, you’ll also find an impressive selection 

of domestic beers and classic imports. Cider is also on 

tap, as well as available 

in bottles or cans. 

The wine list 

includes a variety of 

Ontario vintages by 

the glass or the bottle 

—and even two on 

tap! — augmented by 

some popular imports.


eatdrink 

Expect More at Smackwater Jack’s! 

Live entertainment has also helped Smackwater Jack’s become 

Grand Bend’s go-to restaurant and bar. Crowd-pleasing local talent 

frequently takes the stage, 

adding another layer to the 

warm feeling of community. 

Playhouse patrons are 

eligible for meal discounts, so ask about the Theatre Club Card. 

Reservations, particularly in the summer, are highly recommended. 

HOURS OF OPERATION 

WINTER HOURS After Seasonal 

Break, Reopening Fri, Feb 10 

SUMMER HOURS 

Monday–Thursday 11:30–9* 

Friday & Saturday 11:30–10 

Sundays 11:30–9 

SMACKWATER JACK’S TAPHOUSE 

71 River Road, Grand Bend ON 

519-238-5556 

www.smackwaterjacks.ca 

info@smackwaterjacks.ca



BEER MATTERS 

beer matters 

Brewing Magic in London 

Anderson Craft Ales adds to the ambience in Old East Village 

By WAYNE NEWTON 

What happens when 

a new brewery 

moves into an old 

neighbourhood? 

Magic. 

Anderson Craft Ales, which 

brewed its first batch last 

summer, has already become 

another good reason to explore 

London’s Old East Village. 

Located in a former 

industrial building on Elias 

Street, Anderson was started 

with two beer recipes and the 

goal of helping to make the 

neighbourhood a hip destination.“We would 

love to help shape tourism in London by 

encouraging people to spend time in the 

OEV,” said Aynsley Anderson, who handles 

special events and social media. “There are 

already great places to eat, grab coffee and 

shop. We can help round that out, with the 

city’s help, to create an environment with 

character and connectivity that people want 

to hang out in.” 

Aynsley’s brother, Gavin, is the brewmaster. 

His brewing journey started more 

than a decade ago when he was a 19-year- 

old home brewer, and included stops at craft 

breweries in Kentucky and the Maritimes. 

He has a PhD in microbiology, meaning he’s 

well equipped to understand the science 

of brewing. Dad Jim is a director of the 

company, and has been known to pitch in 

with any task from bartending to, as Aynsley 

says, “ideas man.” 

The first two beers to be launched were 

Anderson IPA and Anderson Amber. 

Brewing an India Pale Ale is de rigueur in 

the craft beer world, but Anderson choose 

to go a less-hoppy, more accessible route 

for its recipe, compared with many 

other craft brewers. Recommended 

pairings include big, bold spicy foods 

like fajitas. Anderson Amber, with its 

notes of caramel and toffee, has broad 

appeal as a beer to pair with anything 

from seafood to pizza or grilled cheese. 

Having tips on which beer to pair 

with what food comes in handy on 

Friday nights, when Anderson hosts 

food trucks at the brewery, featuring 

COCOVille Caribbean and a different 

guest truck each week. 

Continued on page 42 ... 

Brewmaster Gavin Anderson behind the bar, the 

focus of Anderson Craft Ale’s retail operation.

Special Wine & Food Show Draw! 

DOUBLE PRIZE PACKAGE 

WIN A LEXUS 

FOR A WEEKEND! 

Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed! 

2017 

ONE NIGHT 

+ BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER! 

Presented by 

eatdrink 

PRIZE PACKAGE includes use of a Lexus vehicle for a 3-day weekend and 

detailing (cleaning, rejuvenating) of your own vehicle by LEXUS OF LONDON 

+ an overnight stay at London’s WINDERMERE MANOR, with breakfast, 

lunch & dinner at RESTAURANT NINETY ONE! 

Enter at the show or online at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag 

Contest ends February 23 , 2017. Complete details online.



Grab a sample or a pint and stay awhile, or purchase 

growlers and cans to go. 

Continued from page 40 ... 

Anderson has organized the Beer Run 

Club on Wednesdays, and other special 

events have included fundraiser and 

awareness nights for causes as diverse as 

men’s health and Paws United Dog Rescue. 

“We love having different activities 

because we love the social aspect of drinking 

and appreciating craft beer,” Aynsley said. 

“Drinking beer doesn’t have to be done in a 

Enjoy a game or conversation upstairs in a communal 

space that overlooks the brewing operation. 

dark bar by yourself. It is important to us to 

maintain a family-friendly environment, and 

encourage people to come and meet friends, 

family or work colleagues in a setting where 

they can have a beer, but also just relax and 

socialize.” 

Anderson quickly added to its roster 

of beers. While the core brand IPA and 

amber are always available at the brewery 

store, there is also a constant rotation of 

seasonals. On the board last fall were 

a brown, a cream ale, a winter ale, and 

a Stout Cask Series of four different 

stouts released on four consecutive 

Saturdays. In 2017, more seasonal 

brews are coming as well as cask series 

releases. 

The neighbourhood may soon be 

known as London’s Beer District, 

once London Brewing Co-operative 

completes construction just a twominute 

walk from Anderson in 

The brewhouse gleams with its state-of-the-art 

brewing and canning equipment. 

Selected in 

TOP 10 

Beer Bars 

in Canada


another part of the former industrial cluster 

of buildings. Having LBC as a neighbour 

along with places such as the Junction 

Climbing Centre adds to the cool factor, 

Gavin and Aynsley said. 

“Just because it’s a light industrial area 

doesn’t mean we can’t be pedestrianfriendly 

and encourage foot traffic between 

us, the businesses on Dundas, Boyle 

Community Park and LBC,” Aynsley said. 

“We’re seeing it happen organically. Many of 

our customers arrive on foot or bike. Many 

will also seek us out to spend the day — 


NEW YEAR 

NEW 

BREWS! 

coming soon: 

• The Strong Man 

• Maple Bock 

NEW TAPROOM, FOOD MENU, 

RETAIL STORE, TOURS, TASTINGS 

Railway City B r e w i n g C o . 

130 Edward Street, St. Thomas, Ontario 

519-631-1881 • railwaycitybrewing.com 

Railwaycity Railwaycity RailwaycityBrewing 

climbing next door 

at Junction, then 

having a couple 

of beers, then 

heading to True 

Taco for dinner, for 

example.” 

Anderson beers 

can be enjoyed 

at an on-site bar, 

where take-home 

growlers can also 

be filled. Cans are 

355 mL. 

Flagship Beers 

Anderson IPA 

Anderson Amber 

Available in cans at the 

brewery store and in cans or on tap at various pubs from 

Windsor to Guelph. 

Anderson Craft Ales 

1030 Elias St., London 

519-253-9440 

andersoncraftales.ca 

Precision and attention to 

detail are key to delivering 

consistent handcrafted 

premium beers. 

WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist in London who 

enjoys writing about beer and travel. 

ASK for ANDERSON 

We’re looking forward to meeting 

more of London in 2017! 

Our beer is available in cans or 

growlers to go, and we also have 

a tap room for sampling, tours, and 

private events. Come see us today! 

1030 Elias Street, London 

andersoncraftales.ca



wine 

Getting it Right 

Jamie Quai, of Quai du Vin Estate Winery 

By GARY KILLOPS 

The 12th Annual London Wine & 

Food Show returns to the Metroland 

Media Agriplex at the Western 

Fair District on January 19th for 

three days of wine, beer, spirits and epicurean 

plates. 

Ontario has been growing steadily as 

a culinary destination and this event will 

showcase, among others, the wineries, 

breweries, restaurants and chefs who 

support local and purchase from area 

farmers. 

“The London Wine and Food Show is an 

amazing event! We have been proud to pour 

our wines there since the very first year,” 

said Jamie Quai, winemaker at Quai du Vin 

Estate Winery, a 22-acre vineyard and winery 

located 30 minutes south of London. 

Quai went on to say, “My favourite thing 

about the show (and other vendors have said 

the same thing) is that the those attending are 

just more interested in what you are doing. You 

can connect with people. Some of the other 

shows out there (while great) don’t seem to 

linger as much in the minds of the guests after 

they’ve left. London seems different.” 

The Grape Growers of Ontario selected 

Jamie Quai as the 2016 Grape King, an 

ambassador for all grape growers in Ontario. 

Jamie is the 61st Grape King and only the 

Jamie Quai 

Quai Du Vin offers traditional reds and whites, as well 

as fruit wines, sparkling cocktails, sparkling wines, 

icewines, maple wines and wine jellies. 

second to be named from a vineyard outside 

of Niagara. 

“My wife, kids and I are attending events 

all over Ontario for the 12 months of my time 

as the Grape King. I’m presenting an award 

at Cuvée this March, bringing greetings at 

the Icewine Festival in January, new vintages 

celebrations in the spring; there is always 

something upcoming.” 

This year the Niagara Icewine Festival falls 

on the same weekend as the London Wine 

&Food Show, so due to his commitments 

Jamie will not be able to attend the London 

show. Further Jamie’s sister, who runs the 

winery’s retail end, is on maternity leave. 

“We decided that rather than phone 

it in, so to speak, we would take a 

year off and return refreshed in 2018. 

We absolutely love the show and wish we 

could have done it justice this year.” 

Show organizers describe the London 

Wine & Food Show as an enticing mix of 

local restaurants, wineries, craft beers and 

spirits paired with tasting seminars, stage 

presentations and entertainment. There 

is something for everyone to sip, sample 

and savour!


Q & A with Jamie Quai 

How did you get your start in wine making? 

It’s a family business, so my start in the 

industry was as a child doing farm kid things 

like pruning, tying, trellising, and training. 

The way all people all should start — in 

the vines. My start in winemaking came as 

a natural extension to the growing side of 

the business. Helping wash tanks, slugging 

hoses. The first wine I can remember 

making substantive contributions to, as 

a professional, was our 2004 Baco Noir. 

I remember making a few tweaks to the 

cellar timelines that led to a really nice wine. 

we are” and entering the age of “Here’s what 

we are not.” 

New players are coming in with a drive 

to focus on producing the best select wines 

(i.e. pinot noir and chardonnay). That 

was almost unheard of 15 years ago. I see 

the next 15 years as a tightening of that 

regional stylistic focus, with stronger, more 

select portfolios. 

I also think that, even with climate change, 

there is going to be a stylistic tightening up 

Who were your mentors? 

My parents are the biggest influence. They 

founded and have run a very successful 

winery for almost three decades. I still turn 

to them for mentoring. 

There are instructors from my time 

at CCOVI (Cool Climate Oenology and 

Viticulture Institute) at Brock University 

Jamie Quai was chosen by the Grape Growers of Ontario 

as the 2016/17 Grape King. Jamie Slingerland (right), 

from Niagara-on-the-Lake, was last year’s Grape King. 

that I would definitely consider mentors, 

as well as classmates/friends who have 

gone on to push themselves professionally. 

There were several successful winemakers 

I’ve been fortunate enough to work for 

who shaped my development: Jason James 

(now at Stoney Ridge, in BC), Rob Powers 

(Creekside Estate Winery, Niagara) and 

Craig MacDonald (Trius Winery, Niagara). 

What do you see for the future of Ontario 

wine? 

I’m convinced that the Ontario wine 

industry is leaving the age of “Here’s what 

between vintages. As the vines mature, 

the variability from one year to the next 

will smooth out. I’m noticing in my own 

production that there is a consistency 

in quality over the last few years that 

only comes from older vines. I think the 

industry will see that overall. 

What do you like most about the Ontario 

wine industry? 

There is still an opportunity to find that great 

piece of land, and possibly build that really 

strong brand. Places like Napa or Burgundy 

have been thoroughly dissected and the best 

parts identified. Not here, not yet. 

It’s not a matter of drive or ambition. It 

just will take time for those places to shine. 

I like the prospector feeling of the modern 

industry, and being wowed when someone 

really gets it right. 

Quai Du Vin Estate Winery 

45811 Fruitridge Line, St Thomas 

519-775-2216 

www.quaiduvin.com 

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who loves 

to talk, taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting 

notes on EssexWineReview.com



spirits 

A Focus on Craft 

Four Niagara Region Distillers of Note 

By BILL WITTUR 

As we welcome 2017 — Canada’s 

150th birthday — into our lives, we 

wanted to look at some of Ontario’s 

craft spirits producers, both new and 

well-established, to get into the spirit of this 

important celebration. 

Focussing on the 

Niagara Region, here 

are four distilleries 

worth your attention. 

Still Waters Distillery 

Still Waters Distillery, located in Concord, is one of 

the oldest micro-distillers in Ontario. It’s owned by 

Barry Stein and Barry Bernstein, whose focus has 

always been on traditional whisky. This is tough when 

you’re a new business because you have to wait a 

minimum three years before you can sell anything. 

The early days for “The Barrys” were a challenge 

because the rules were tilted towards large producers. 

Their business 

plans became 

a template 

for regulators 

when dealing 

with other new 

distillers in 

Ontario. 

They’ve 

weathered 

the storm and 

Still Waters 

will celebrate 

its ninth year 

of production 

with the launch of Stalk and Barrel Red Blend and 

Blue Blend labels. The Red is malt dominant and 

slightly sweeter, with hints of granola and chocolate 

Trafalgar Distillery 

2017 will be an important transition year for the 

owners of Trafalgar Distillery in Oakville. Jeff and 

Eric Dornan, the owners and producers of All or 

Nothing Brewhouse, started making craft beers in 

1993. The distillery was added in 2013. They are now 

shifting the focus of production to a narrower range 

of higher quality products, including beer, mead and 

spirits. The Dornan brothers are experimenting with 

on the tongue. Blue 

Blend shows more rye 

characteristics. The rye 

base results in a spicier 

note and taste. There 

is a touch of fruit and 

caramel. The brewers 

recommend enjoying 

their products straight 

Barry Stein and Barry Bernstein 

up. Prices and LCBO 

product numbers are 

not available yet, but 

you can reserve your bottles by visiting 

stillwatersdistillery.com.


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Live Music • Cooking Classes 

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different cask sizes and wood types to create a 

signature product that they can call their own. 

They will continue to sell their delicious 

flavoured moonshine products 

at their Oakville location. All 

of their spirits are based on 

corn, but they have started 

working with other grains as 

well, including traditional 

rye and malt 

for quality 

whiskies. 

While these 

products are 

a few years 

away, you can 

taste their 

potential in 

the Baked 

Apple Shine 

(like liquid 

apple pie) and 

the Toffee Shine, which I recommend for a 

variation on the classic hot toddy. 

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Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers 

Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers can be 

found in Beamsville, on the Niagara 

wine route. Jeff Dillon 

leveraged a number of 

factors to his advantage —a 

career in the financial sector, 

a father who is passionate 

about whisky, and a great 

location. He also evolved an 

incredible branding strategy. 

As a member of the American 

Distilling Institute, he’s 

witnessed the massive growth 

of craft production in the US 

and wants to help lead the market in Canada. 

Dillon’s focuses on spirits (rye, vodka, gin) and 

complimenting bitters. But it also produces, either 

regularly or occasionally, absinthe, vermouth, eauxde-vie, 

vermouth (available only through Vintages), 

and more. 

For Canada’s 150th Dillon’s has introduced its first 

single cask rye whisky, released in December 2016. 

This whisky is 100% pure Ontario rye and is pot 

distilled. 

Many Dillon’s product can be purchased at the 

LCBO, but it’s worth the trip to Beamsville to check 

it out. www.dillons.ca 

Polonée Distillery 

Polonée is another relative newcomer in the 

Ontario craft spirits scene, based in St. Catharines. 

The distillery was started in 2013 by Adam and 

Patricia Szymkow. They produce everything in 

small batches, paying attention to all details to 

ensure a quality product. 

The signature Kannuk Vodka is 

handcrafted in a way to shout out about 

Canada’s diverse culture: it is distilled 

from corn to represent its North American 

origin; wheat for its European 

essence; sweet potato (which is unique 

Geoff Dillon 


for a vodka) for its Caribbean and 

South American vibe; and wild rice 

for its Asian and African influence. 

The result is a perfect mosaic of 

inputs yielding an exceptional vodka. 

All bottles are sealed with a toasted 

maple wood top that gives the 

vodka a light brown 

hue. No colouring 

or dye is used to get 

this unique finish. 

Plans for Canada’s 

150th are still 

under wraps, but 

the Szymkows recommend 

you enjoy their Kannuk 

vodka today with sparkling 

water and a slice of cucumber. 

Kannuk can be purchased 

at the distillery. 

www.polonee.com 

Adam Szymkow 

BILL WITTUR loves discovering 

new producers and is the owner and 

operator of Drinky.ca.


the classical beat 

Young Talent Shines Bright 

By NICOLE LAIDLER 

It may be the dead of winter, but local 

talent will be shining bright on stages 

across our region this January and 

February. 

London’s least conventional classical 

ensemble, the Rebelheart Collective, 

presents its second concert at Aeolian Hall, 

January 21, with a program of music by 

Bartok, Haydn, Mozart and Mussorgsky. 

At the core of the ensemble are four of 

Canada’s top string players — Scott St. 

John, violin; Sharon Wei, viola; Thomas 

Wiebe, cello; and Erika Raum violin. Throw 

in a group of graduate-level music students 

and add the children of Aeolian’s El 

Sistema program. Eliminate the conductor 

and give half the tickets away for free. Then 

wrap the concert into a series that also 

includes a performance by the Vienna Boys 

Choir (March 8) and an evening with Clark 

Bryan and Marion Miller (April 8). 

It’s a model that’s so crazy, it just might 

work. “It’s an experiment. An attempt to 

make classical music in London accessible 

to people who might otherwise not be able 

to come to a concert,” says Aeolian’s Clark 

Bryan, who founded the El Sistema youth 

program five years ago. 

“These kids are reaching for the stars,” he 

says. “They are already at a level where they 

Cameron Crozman 

The Rebelheart Collective, clockwise from top left: 

Scott St. John, Sharon Wei, Tom Wiebe & Erika Raum 

can play with professional musicians. It’s 

something I’m very passionate about.” 

www.aeolianhall.ca 

At only 21 years old, cellist Cameron 

Crozman is another young Londoner who 

is reaching for the stars. In fact, he’s already 

making a name for himself on stages across 

Europe and North America. 

Currently studying at the Paris 

Conservatoire, he returns home to join 

forces with Montreal-based pianist Philip 

Chiu for a concert of British and French 

music, February 4 at Wolf Performance Hall. 

“The idea is to show how 20th-century 

composers in England and France were 

turning to 

traditional and 

folk music for 

inspiration,” 

says Crozman. 

Both musicians 

are 

recent winners 

of prestigious 

awards. Crozman 

performs 

on the $12 

Phillip Chiu 

million Bonjour 

Stradivarius 

cello


and Shawn Adam cello bow 

— both on loan from the 

Canada Council’s Instrument 

Bank. Chiu won the 

2015/16 Prix Goyer, Canada’s 

largest prize for an emerging 

classical artist. 

The concert is the first in 

a three-part mini-series of 

London artists, presented 

by The Jeffery Concerts. 

www.jefferyconcerts.com 

The following day, two 

members of the London 

Youth Symphony step into 

the spotlight at Dundas 

Street Centre United 

Church. The February 5 Adam Iannetta 

concert features 15-yearold 

cellist Sarah Cupit performing Strauss’ 

Romanze and 17-year-old French Horn 

player, Jennifer Bywaters, playing Weber’s 

Concertino in E. 

A student of Ron George and Kate Stone, 

Bywaters will be continuing her studies in 

Europe next year, says LYS manager, Joan 

Mortimer. “She is one of the most dedicated 

young musicians I have seen.” 

Watching young 

musicians like Cupit and 

Bywaters develop is a very 

rewarding experience, 

Mortimer says. “Even 

players who won’t go on 

to become professional 

musicians will have a 

passion for music that will 

stay with them for the rest 

of their lives,” she notes. 

www.londonyouthsymphony.org 

Students at UWOpera are 

gearing up for their winter 

production. Mozart’s The 

Anne Lederman 

Magic Flute runs January 27 

& 8 and February 3, 4 & 5 at 

the Paul Davenport Theatre. 

The two-act ‘Singspiel’ tells the story 

of Tamino, a prince who must undergo a 

series of tests, accompanied by his sidekick 

Papageno, in order to marry the princess 

Pamina. Premiered in 1791 in Vienna, just 

two months before the composer’s death, 

it has become one of the world’s mostbeloved 

operas. 


Windsor native and 

Western DMA student 

Adam Iannetta is 

taking on the role of 

assistant director for 

this production. “The 

music program here 

at Western does a 

fantastic job of offering 

students experiences 

and opportunities that 

can lead you in so many 

different directions, not 

just being on stage but 

behind the scenes as 

well,” he says. www.music. 

uwo.ca/events/opera.html 

The Stratford Symphony 

Orchestra welcomes the 

New Year with its annual Celtic Celebration, 

January 28 at Knox Presbyterian Church. 

This year’s guest artist is Canadian 

Metis fiddler Anne Lederman, who will be 

performing her own arrangements of Metis 

fiddle tunes and Celtic music from the 

British Isles. 

The orchestra will also play selections 

from Leroy Anderson’s “Irish Suite”, 

arrangements of music 

from Michael Flatley’s 

“River Dance Suite” and 

“Lord of the Dance”, as 

well as an arrangement of 

Celtic music by Canadian 

composer Chris Meyer. 

Recitations of poetry by 

Robbie Burns, and the 

sounds of the Stratford 

Police Pipe Band round 

out the program. 

“We have a longstanding 

relationship 

with the Stratford Police 

Pipe and Drums,” says 

SSO office manager, 

David Murray, adding: 

“One couldn’t imagine a Celtic concert 

without hearing ‘Highland Cathedral.” 

www.stratfordsymphonyorchestra.ca 

NICOLE LAIDLER is a former classical musician who has 

been writing about London’s cultural scene for more than a 

decade. To see what else she’s been up to visit www.spilledink.ca


various musical notes 

Let It Snow 

Winter concerts to keep you warm 

By GERRY BLACKWELL 

The snow is snowing, the wind is 

blowing but, hey, we can weather 

the storm. We’ve got music to keep 

us warm. Mighty fine music too. 

On Sunday, January 15, American country 

star Lee Ann Womack plays the Chatham 

Capitol Theatre in Chatham ($40-$60). 

Womack has been compared to Dolly Parton 

and Tammy Wynette: a traditionalist, but 

with a contemporary twist. She wowed 

them in a televised appearance at the 

2016 AmericanFest, the Americana Music 

Association’s annual shindig. 

If trad jazz is more your style, catch the 

Uptown Dixieland Jazz Band, also January 

15. They’re at the Shrine Centre Hall on 

Colborne Street, courtesy of the London Jazz 

Society ($6 members/$12 non-members). 

The Uptowners are a lot of fun, and can 

really cut loose. Next up in the LJS series: the 

Ken Foster Quartet on Sunday, February 12. 

Then crank up the excitement: the Sam 

Roberts Band is coming to London Music 

Hall — Saturday, January 21 ($43.50). SRB 

has a new record, Terraforming, with a sci-fi 

theme. Terraforming (say what?), the subject 

of the title track, is the idea of going to 

another planet and making it habitable for 

humans — perhaps not your usual indierock 

fodder, but intriguing. 

Jazz for the People continues its 30-plusyears 

run of free Wednesday night concerts 

Sam Roberts Band 

Lee Ann Womack 

on January 25 and then again February 22 

at Wolf Performance Hall (Central Library). 

Performers to be announced. But the price is 

right, and the quality always high. You really 

can’t go wrong. 

Phenomenal finger-style folk guitarist 

Don Ross is at the Aeolian on Friday, 

January 27 ($25/$30). Ross has been making 

records since 1989, plays like a wizard, wins 

awards, but still flies under the radar — 

except among hardcore guitar fans. They 

revere him. 

Or here’s a 

cool idea for Don Ross 

a cold Friday 

night: drive 

over to Stratford 

to the Revival 

House for a 

dinner-concert. 

They’ve got 

Samantha 

Martin & 

Delta Sugar 

on January 27. 

The soulful, 

whiskey-voiced 

Martin, a multiple 

Maple Blues 

Awards nominee, 

is based 

in Toronto but 

channels the 

Mississippi


Mike Murley Trio 

Delta. Concert only, $25; concert plus prix 

fixe dinner, $34.99. Sounds like a deal. 

Back to Chatham. The Capitol has a pair 

of early-February concerts to entice in-theknow 

fans. Singer-songwriter-record producer 

Marc Jordan, who has written for the 

likes of Diana Ross, Rod Stewart and Cher, 

will be there Thursday, February 2 ($30). And 

on Saturday, February 

4, it’s alt-rockers The 

Tea Party ($40-$50). 

They’re on tour celebrating 

the 20th anniversary 

of their hit CD, 

Transition. The Party 

will also be at London 

Music Hall, Tuesday, 

February 21 ($30). 

Sunfest’s World 

Music & Jazz Series 

continues with the 

Juno Award-winning Mike Murley Trio 

at Aeolian Hall on January 28 ($25), offering 

their lyrical take on jazz standards. The 

Michael Kaeshammer Sextet plays on 

Thursday, February 9 ($35/$40). Germanborn 

Kaeshammer emigrated to Canada as 

a teenager in the 90s 

and almost immediately 

became a 

fixture on the jazz 

scene here. Always a 

phenomenal boogiewoogie 

piano player, 

he also writes and sings 

now, most often trad 

jazz style. Michael 

is touring a new 

album, No Filter. 

Harry Manx 

Samantha Martin 

Us The Duo 

London Music 

Hall has folk-pop 

outfit Us The Duo 

on Friday, February 10 ($25). Interesting back 

story: the husband and wife duo are credited 

with being the first music act to win a record 

deal by amassing a huge following on shortform 

video sharing site, Vine. The music? 

Sweet, infectious, engaging. 

Acoustic blues man Harry Manx is at 

Aeolian February 10 ($40/$45). Manx plays a 

unique mash-up of Delta blues inflected with 

classical Indian. His signature instrument, 

the Mohan veena, is a 20-stringed modified 

Hawaiian guitar invented by Vishwa Mohan 

Bhatt. Manx studied with Bhatt in India. Hence 

his 2015 album: 20 Strings And The Truth. The 

man’s an original. 

Roots music super 

group Essig Taylor 

Gifford Miron are at 

the London Music 

Club Saturday, February 

11 ($15/$20). 

Front man David 

Essig is a Canadian 

folk legend. Rick 

Taylor is the prodigal 

Londoner who came 

home recently after 

years away on the road. London festival-goers 

know him these days as a raucous solo blues 

man, but he started as a finger-style guitarist. 

Should be a dynamite show. 

Happy Valentines, London! Blue Rodeo 

is coming to the RBC Theatre at Budweiser 

Gardens, Tuesday, February 14 

($36.50-$61.50). Can’t quite 

place these guys? Check out 

this CBC Music Backstage Pass 

(goo.gl/imF4Li). It focuses 

on the October release 

of Rodeo’s new album, 

1000 Arms, which 

they’re now touring. 

Ladysmith 

Black Mambazo 

bring their joyous, 

intricate rhythms 

Michael Kaeshammer


Ladysmith 

Black 

Mambazo 

and harmonies 

of South Africa 

to London 

Music Hall 

on February 

16 ($55). 

Founder Joseph 

Shabalala has 

led the group for 

over 50 years, 

recording with 

www.sunfest.on.ca 

MIKE MURLEY TRIO 

Mike Murley (sax); 

Reg Schwager (guitar); Steve Wallace (bass) 

Saturday, January 28 

World Music 

& Jazz Series 

2016 - 17 

Series Sponsor 

New CD 

“No Filter” 

MICHAEL KAESHAMMER 

SEXTET 

Thursday, February 9 

acher Flyer (2016) 

(Beth) Hickey, BA(MUS) 

ced piano/theory teacher now a wide accepting range of new students into professional music 

international 

, active stars, musician, most notably established with Paul Simon in the on community 

al instruction 

Graceland, and the group won the World 

Music Grammy in 2013. 

Direct from South Africa 

Four-time Grammy Award Winners 

ounding 

March 

to have 

comes 

gift 

in like 

of 

a 

music 

lion, with 

for 

Matthew 

life / lifelong gift of music 

LADYSMITH Three-time Latin Jazz Artist of the Year 

ome-based Good at environment 

the London Music 

BLACK MAMBAZO Nominee at the Canadian Jazz Awards 

Hall on Friday the 3rd ($32.75). 

Thursday, February 16 AMANDA MARTINEZ 

orth location, convenient to bus routes London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave 

Long a solo performer 

Tickets at londonmusichall.com 

Saturday, February 25 

ionate, after kind, years caring, fronting The nurturing, gentle, encouraging, All Concerts: Doors understanding 

at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm 

Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian 

Hall , 795 Dundas St ., London 

nservatory 

Matthew 

Exam 

Good Band, 

Preparation 

Tickets at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall, Long & McQuade North, 

he’s now touring his 

Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca or aeolianhall.ca 

y Piano December Proficiency 2016 EP, Preparation 

n Street Miss New Wave: 

Beautiful Midnight 

4022Revisited. It features 

new recordings of 

songs from MGB’s 

iconic 1999 album, 

Michelle 

Beautiful Midnight. 

Wright 

The month continues strong 

with a homecoming concert 

by Chatham-Kent’s country 

darling Michelle Wright. 

That’s on Friday, March 10 at 

the Capitol in Chatham ($45- 

$65). This is a rare concert on home turf for 

one of Canada’s all-time great country stars. 

See, winter ain’t so bad. 

Develop skills & a love for music 

PIANO LESSONS 

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance writer. 

Matthew Good 

Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher 

now accepting new students 

Individual Instruction for All Ages 

Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging 

Home-based Professional Music Studio 

Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation 

University Piano Proficiency Preparation 

Beth Hickey, BA (MUS) 

North London 

bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022



theatre 

Theater in Winter 

Some Joy, Some Madness, and More 


Looking for an escape from the dark 

winter nights? Getting a bit of cabin 

fever? Then consider a night out 

being entertained by live theatre. 

Kick off 2017 and beat the winter blues, 

challenge your mind and support the arts in 

our area. 

To set the mood for 2017 comes Reefer 

Madness from the King’s Players at King’s 

University College. While Canadians 

contemplate legalized marijuana this is 

a hilarious look at how marijuana use 

was regarded in decades past. This is a 

live musical version of the 1936 film of the 

same name. The Players are alerting the 

audience that this is a “highly stylized and 

satirical political commentary that contains 

adult humour, religious parody, drug use 

as well as suggested violence and sexual 

explicitness — inappropriate for younger 

audiences.” Reefer Madness runs from 

January 25–28th 

in the Joanne 

and Peter Kenny 

Theatre at King’s 

University College. 

This is a large cast 

production with 

a nine-piece jazz 

band. 

The Grand 

Theatre in London 

presents Lions in Winter January 10th to 

28th. This drama about the life of Henry II 

promises to intrigue fans of Game of Thrones 

and House of Cards in a bizarre Christmas 

setting. 

The play 

takes the 

audience 

back in 

time, 800 

years, as 

Henry and 

his wife 

battle for 

power. 

Directed by Krista Jackson, who asks the 

question, “what shall we hang ... the holly or 

each other?” 

In February, The Grand 

lightens up the mood with 

the Tony Award-Winning Best 

Play, Art. It runs from February 

21st to March 11th. Originally a 

French play, it was translated 

into English and wowed theatregoers 

in London’s West End and 

Broadway. This introspective

www.eatdrink.ca 55 

discussion — what is art? and is beauty truly 

in the eye of the beholder? — makes a rare 

appearance in Southwestern Ontario. 

The Imperial Theatre in downtown Sarnia 

presents Willow Quartet January 27th to 

February 4th. While it sounds like a musical 

event, this play is about unresolved grief and 

love. The theatre is located near the fabulous 

Lola’s Lounge restaurant, a great place for a 

post-theatre drink and discussion. 

Joan Burrows Willow Quartet, directed by Jay Peckham, 

runs at Sarnia’s Imperial Theatre January 27–February 4 

PortStanley 

FestivalTheatre 


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The Port Stanley Festival Theatre runs 

a winter program and will warm your 

soul with some Billy Joel on January 14th 

(two shows). Billy Joel and the Piano Men, 

starring Bruce Tournay as Joel, is a romp 

through the 1970s and ’80s and includes 

performances of songs by Elton John, Burton 

Cummings and more. 

If the ’50s and ’60s are more your style, 

Port Stanley Festival Theatre heats things 

up for Valentine’s Day with Buddy Holly’s 

Rockin’ Valentine’s Party on February 11th 

(two shows). Starring Jeff Giles, this show is 

a follow-up to Giles popular performance in 

The Buddy Holly Story. 

What could be a more Canadian way to 

kick off Canada’s 150th in Southwestern 

Ontario than with a Norm Foster play? The 

Palace Theatre in London’s Old East Village 

and the London Community Players present 

Jeff Giles as Buddy Holly at Port Stanley 

Festival Theatre on February 11 

Company in the Covent Garden Market, 

London. Many local and professional actors 

got their start at OKTC — think Rachel 

McAdams — and for hundreds of other local 

kids it is a great way to learn confidence, 

acting skills and have fun performing. 

Peter Pan Jr. runs March 9th to 18th and is 

sure to get your toes tapping all the way to 

Neverland. 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to eatdrink 

magazine. She is also Manager, Communications & Media 

Relations, at King’s University College in London. 

Jenny’s House of Joy, a look back at prostitution 

in 1870 Kansas. The play runs January 

12th to 22nd. In February, the London Community 

Players at the Palace turn to a more 

serious drama, A Raisin in the Sun, which 

was performed on Broadway in 1959. The 

show runs February 9th to 19th. 

Finally, if you might have some kids under 

foot during the upcoming March Break and 

are looking for entertainment, check out 

Peter Pan Jr., by The Original Kids Theatre 

The Original Kids Theatre Company 

presents Peter Pan Jr. March 9–18


cookbooks 

Jill’s Soups Stews & Breads 

By Jill Wilcox with Josie Pontarelli 

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

Photographs by JACKIE NOBLE 

January. Ah, January. That magical time of 

year when you can’t possibly eat another 

piece of cake, candy or chocolate. You’ve 

spent the last several weeks eating five 

meals a day and “tasting” 342 sweet/salty/ 

crunchy/chewy things. You’re craving light, 

simple food, and at the same time you need to 

fuel you up for the 20-minute trudge through 

the snow to check the mail. 

So what is the answer? How do you find 

the balance between getting back to a 

normal eating schedule and craving warm 

filling food? Jill Wilcox and the culinary team 

at Jill’s Table are onto something with their 

latest book. 

Jill’s Soups, Stews &Breads by Jill Wilcox 

is just the thing to get you through the 

icy white of January and the bleak grey of 

February. Spring will come eventually but 

until then, soup is all you need. Soup and a 

good loaf of homemade bread. Soup, bread, 

and a hearty stew on the weekend. 

The author has been offering kitchenware, 

specialty foods and cooking classes at her 

London shop, Jill’s Table, for many years. 

Josie Pontarelli is the resident baker and 

contributed most of the 

bread recipes as well as 

some soups to this book. 

Sommelier Christie Pollard 

rounds out Jill’s team and 

contributed some of her 

personal recipes. 

Jill directs us to the equipment 

and ingredients we 

need to make great soups 

and breads without a ton of 

unnecessary stuff to crowd 

our kitchens. She shows us 

that making our own broth is 

easy, but she also offers great 

alternatives for those of us 

not inclined to do so. Many 

of the recipes include easy 

alterations 

to 

make 

them 

vegetarian 

or vegan. 

The food styling 

by Jill’s team, and photos by 

Jackie Noble of Noble Concepts, were 

beautifully done. Soup isn’t always 

the prettiest food but these recipes all looked 

delicious. 

I think what I liked best about this book 

is its complete lack of fussiness. There are 

recipes for some classic soups that have 

always seemed a bit intimidating to me. 

Jill’s book makes short work of those same 

dishes, turning them into something I’m 

confident I could put together in my own 

kitchen. Most of the recipes are no more 

than a page long, including tips, variations 

and personal notes. 

Hearty Bean and Bacon Soup reminded 

me of visiting my grandparents as a 

child. Grandma knew it was my favourite 

and always served the 

orange stuff in the can. 

Unfortunately, some 

things don’t translate into 

adulthood and that canned 

soup just isn’t as delicious 

to me these days. Jill’s 

recipe takes all the flavours 

I remember and elevates 

them into a grownup dish 

that ticks all the boxes. 

Hearty, creamy, smoky and 

salty, this soup will make 

you smile as you watch the 

snow pile up outside and 

bury your car. 

Jill Wilcox


I’d never heard of Malaysian Laksa before, 

but it’s full of the southeast Asian flavours I 

love, and I was intrigued. This soup would 

be reason enough to start an indoor herb 

garden, just to have the fresh mint and 

cilantro on hand. I could eat a bowl of this 

spicy soup to help me cool down in summer 

or to stave off a cold in winter. (I know that 

probably doesn’t work but it makes me feel 

like I’m doing something.) 


I started bookmarking all the recipes I 

wanted to try in this book but it was soon 

bristling with sticky notes and I couldn’t 

read it anymore. I think it’s going to be 

easier just to work my way through the book 

over the winter. See you in the spring! 

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in 

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com. 

Recipes and photos excerpted from Soups, Stews & Breads, by Jill Wilcox with Josie Pontarelli. 

Hearty Bean and Bacon Soup 

Serves 8 to 10 

1 lb (500 g) dry white pea beans 

6 slices of thick bacon, diced 

2 cooking onions, diced 

2 ribs celery, diced 

1 large carrot, diced 

8 cups (2L) chicken stock 

1 bay leaf 

1 28-oz. (796 ml) can plum tomatoes 

salt and pepper 

1 In a large saucepan, combine the beans and 

enough water to cover by at least 2 in. (5 cm). 

Bring to a boil. Remove from heat, cover and let 

stand 60 minutes. 

2 While the beans are soaking, cook bacon in a 

soup pot over medium heat until golden. Add 

onions, celery and carrot, and cook until tender. 

3 Drain the soaked beans. Add beans to the onioncelery 

mixture along 

with chicken stock 

and bay leaf. Bring 

to a simmer and 

cook until beans are 

tender, about 50 to 

60 minutes. You will 

need to add more 

stock or water as the 

soup cooks. 

4 Add the tomatoes 

with their juice and 

heat through. Add 

additional stock or 

water if necessary. 

Remove bay leaf. 

Partially purée 

with an immersion 

blender. 

5. Season with salt 

and pepper to taste.


Laksa 

Laksa is a bit of a newcomer on the Asian soup scene. 

It’s a Malaysian soup that starts with a bold paste of 

herbs and spices. 

Serves 6 

2 stalks lemongrass 

2 small red Thai chilies or 1 jalapeno, seeded 

2 large cloves garlic 

1 shallot, peeled 

1 lime, juiced 

½ cup (125 ml) each cilantro and mint 

2 tsp (10 ml) dried turmeric 

1 tsp (5 ml) brown sugar 

3 Tbsp (45 ml) grapeseed oil 

1 lb (500 g) boneless, skinless chicken thighs 

1 14-oz (398 ml) can coconut milk 

2 cups (500 ml) chicken stock 

3 cups (750 ml) snap or snow peas 

5 oz (150 g) rice noodles, soaked in boiling water 

until tender, and drained 

Fish sauce 

1 Trim the tough woody portion of the 

lemongrass and discard. Add lemongrass to a 

food processor along with chilies, garlic, shallot, 

lime juice, cilantro, mint, turmeric, sugar and 

2 Tbsp (25 ml) of the oil. Process until a very 

smooth paste. 

2 Heat remaining oil in a soup pot over medium 

heat. Cook chicken thighs in batches until 

golden on both sides. Remove and set aside. 

3 Add paste to the soup pot and cook about 3 to 4 

minutes stirring constantly. Stir in coconut milk 

and chicken stock, and bring to a simmer. 

4 When chicken is cool enough to handle, cut into 

strips and return to pot. 

5 Add snap or snow peas and cook until just 

tender. Season soup with fish sauce to taste, 

adding 1 tsp (5 ml) at a time. 

6 Rinse rice noodles in warm water. Drain and 

divide among soup bowls. Ladle soup over 

noodles. Garnish with cilantro, peanuts, lime and 

onions. 

VARIATION 

Substitute dried 

turmeric for fresh, by 

using 1 Tbsp (15 ml) 

grated. 

FOOD TIP 

Turmeric stains 

terribly, so be careful. 

Garnish 

cilantro 

chopped peanuts 

lime wedges 

thinly sliced green 

onions 

JACKIE NOBLE is a 

professional photographer 

in London, specializing 

in commercial, portrait, 

event, and wedding 

photography. 

www.jackienoble.com



books 

Selections for the Resolute 

Three Suggestions to Start Your Reading Year 

Reviews by DARIN COOK 

Res·o·lu·tion (noun) 

1. a firm decision to do or not to do something. 

2. the action of solving a problem, dispute, or contentious 

matter. 

Anyone who has made resolutions to read more in 2017 can start the 

year off by adding these foodie fiction titles to their reading list. 

The School of Essential Ingredients 

by Erica Bauermeister (2009) 

As a seasoned chef, Lillian opens up her restaurant kitchen one 

night a week to teach cooking classes. The story is told through 

the eyes of eight students. Whether cooking 

crab, baking cake, rolling pasta, or dipping 

into fondue, Lillian’s culinary style provides 

guidance about the perfect ingredients that 

help both in developing delicious recipes 

and solving relationship issues outside the 

kitchen. A mix of genders, ages, and professions, 

the students are so attuned to Lillian’s cooking 

that the food itself becomes a character, and they 

each begin to understand how they cook and taste 

food in their own individual ways. The lessons 

in cooking, along with the right ingredients, help 

the students conjure memories from the past or find direction for a life 

that needed new meaning. Just as the cooking classes give the students 

a chance to step out of their everyday lives, Bauermeister’s story is an 

escape into the interlocking lives of this group of people sharing in 

the pleasures of food. 

The Cake Therapist 

by Judith Fertig (2015) 

Claire is searching for personal healing when she brings her skills 

as a pastry chef back to her hometown to open Rainbow Cake 

bakery. It’s no surprise that dessert can be good therapy, and 

Claire discovers that she cannot find the 

answers she is looking for until she tastes 

them, since flavours are strong indicators 

of mood in this story. It is only by being 

busy in the bakery, caught up in the 

details of cake decorating, that Claire 

can make sense of the world to fill the 

holes in her heart. With more flavours, 

aromas, and colours than even the name of 

her bakery can evoke, she immerses herself in


the business of wedding cakes. Psychology 

runs deep as Claire assesses the needs of her 

bride-to-be clients through cake tastings, 

discovering flavours that momentarily make 

them forget about life’s problems, bring 

back pleasant family memories, and even 

bring a small town mystery to light when 

an antique wedding ring unexpectedly 

resurfaces in her bakery. 

The Hundred-Foot Journey 

by Richard C. Morais (2010) 

Across cities and continents, we follow 

Hassan on a global journey starting in India 

and ending in France, with a short stay in 

England in between. All the while Hassan 

does not know what 

he is looking for, 

only knowing that 

the aromas and 

flavours of the 

family restaurant 

from his 

childhood have 

shaped who he 

is. When his 

father opens a 

new restaurant 

in France, 

the culinary 

culture of 

India takes 

on French cuisine in a bitter 

restaurant rivalry, and Hassan takes a 

hundred-foot journey that changes his life 

forever; physically, it is a short distance 

between 

two different 

restaurants in 

the same town, 

but ethnically, 

the gap is 

enormous. 

Other French 

chefs begin to 

notice that Hassan is a natural born chef 

with “the culinary equivalent of perfect 

pitch” and his destiny is intertwined with 

haute cuisine, Bombay street food, and 

Michelin stars. 

Warm Up with True 

Comfort Food 

Since 1972 

Gift 

Certificates 

Available 

1050 Kipps Lane, London 

519-673-6606 

www.kippslanefish.com 

Come by for a 

delicious meal of 

Home-cooked 

Fish & Chips! 

“Homemade Goodness 

with a Gourmet Touch” 

TUES–THURS: 3–7:30 

FRI & SAT: 12–7:30 

Closed SUN & MON 

Artisan Blends · Fine Spices 

· Herbs · Gourmet Foods · Classes 

· Organic · Natural · Gluten Free 

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based in Chatham who 

keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the bookstores 

and restaurants of London. 

223 Colborne St. Port Stanley 

Tues. to Fri. & Sun 12-5, Sat. 10-5 

(519)782-7800 

www.peppertreespice.com



the lighter side 

A Piece of Cake? 

By KYM WOLFE 

This might sound fishy but … 

I love word play and I 

have a mind that tends to 

trap trivia, so I’ve collected 

snippets of interesting word combos 

and mispronunciations along the way. I 

thought that pulling out the ones related to 

food would be a piece of cake, and I even 

expected that I would be able to cherry pick 

the best of the bunch. 

Alas I found myself in a pickle when 

my memory would not cooperate as 

selectively as I had hoped. I tried 

to butter it up, I threatened it 

with a knuckle sandwich, but in 

the end this is all I could 

manage to cook up. 

Toddlers are always a 

good source of adorable 

word accidents. What parent 

hasn’t been asked for pasghetti 

noodles or cimmanon toast? Your young one 

might adore the sweepy toes (sweet potatoes) 

but hate the spigalous (asparagus). 

Then kids graduate to a higher level of 

punniness, mostly silly and nonsensical. 

Hilarity ensues. 

“What did the salad say to the dressing?” 

“Lettuce be friends!” 

“Why shouldn’t you tell a secret on a farm?” 

“Because the potatoes have eyes and 

the corn has ears.” 

“Why did the apple go out with the prune?” 

“Because he couldn’t find a date.” 

“What is black and white and green and 

bumpy?” 

“A pickle wearing a tuxedo.” 

And of course there are the knock-knock 

jokes. 

“Knock, knock!” — “Who’s there?” — 

“Banana.” — “Banana who?” — “Ba-na-nana-na, 

na-na-na-na… [to the tune of an old 

vaudeville act]. Repeat three times. 

By now you as a parent are getting a little 

exasperated, but you’re game to go one 

more round. 

“Knock, knock!” — “Who’s there?” — 

“Orange” — “Orange who?” — “Orange you 

glad I didn’t say banana?” 

Hysterical stuff. 

Next we move on to idiomatic phrases, 

which must stymie every newcomer who 

has to learn English. Why does a bread 

winner bring home the bacon? Why 

shouldn’t you put all your eggs in one 

basket? Why might a bad smell mean 

someone has cut the cheese? 

You might egg someone on, get 

in a beef with them, or walk on 

eggshells around them. Your 

sweetheart is the apple of your 

eye. If a bean counter is a 

bad egg, he might cook 

the books. Politicians 

might talk about bread 

and butter issues. 

Even a big cheese might end up 

with egg on his face or eating humble pie, 

but he’ll still act cool as a cucumber. After 

all, there’s no use crying over spilt milk — he 

has bigger fish to fry. 

Your sister-in-law has a bun in the oven. 

You only know because your brother spilled 

the beans. Your brother is a bit of a couch 

potato, so you think, “That’s a fine kettle of 

fish!” But they say cream rises to the top, so 

maybe he can cut the mustard. Just don’t 

say anything, because they might think you 

have sour grapes. 

So there you have it. My trivial memory 

well has run dry. It may not be your cup of 

tea, and some might be a little too corny 

or cheesy for your taste. But if you find 

word play as delicious as I do, maybe this 

will prompt you to send me some of your 

favourites. Piece of cake, you say? Well, 

maybe … but the proof of the pudding is in 

the eating! 

KYM WOLFE is a London-based writer who would love to 

hear your favourite foodie word play. kym@kymwolfe.com


THE DONNELLYS 

RETURN TO TELL 

THEIR SIDE OF THINGS 

Photo by dbphotographics 

A CATALYST THEATRE 

PRODUCTION 

WRITTEN, COMPOSED, AND DIRECTED BY 

Jonathan Christenson 

“CANADIAN HISTORY! – doesn’t just rock, 

it comes at you with an aggressive and explosive energy in the 

thrilling new rock musical from Catalyst Theatre” 

– Liz Nicholls, THE EDMONTON JOURNAL 

FEB 7-11 20 

17



Grab your skates and head downtown 

to the Covent Garden Market 

Rotary Rink 

Skating rink is open everyday 

(skating only) 

Monday to Friday: 

11am — 7pm 

Saturday: 10am — 7pm 

Sunday: 11am — 6pm 

Weather permitting 

coventmarket.com 

/coventgardenmarket 

Market Hours 

Monday to Thursday: 8am — 6pm 

Friday: 8am — 7:30pm 

Saturday: 8am — 6pm 

Sunday: 11am — 4pm

Eatdrink #63 January/February 2017

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