Haslemere Traveller 2017

HASLEMERE 

TRAVELLER 

INSIDE: INDIA COSTA RICA SEYCHELLES RIVER CRUISES JORDAN EUROPEAN SHORT BREAKS 

2017 

ABTA No.A2825

CONTENTS 

WELCOME 

2 CONTRIBUTORS 

Find out more about our expert team of travellers 

4 INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS 

Gemma’s maiden, inspiring voyage to India 

5 GRENADA & SEYCHELLES 

Gemma & Ray revisit Grenada; Jackie’s in paradise 

6 RIVER CRUISES 

Gemma on the Rhine & Moselle; Terry tours the Danube 

7 COSTA RICA 

Susie goes off the beaten track in Central America 

8 JORDAN & ITALIAN VILLAS 

Gemma & Ray in the Middle East and a weekend in Lucca 

9 TUSCANY & AMSTERDAM 

Jackie on foot in Tuscany; Aly reminisces in Amsterdam 

10 SOUTH AFRICA & ICELAND 

Hanna is in love with South Africa & Susie’s 4x4 adventures 

11 WANDERING STAR 

The lovely Joanna Lumley, talks travel, music and opera 

12 SHORT BREAKS 

Terry and Hanna enjoy Zurich, Tenerife and Greece 

13 WHAT’S NEW 

Haslemere Literary Luncheon; Fab Caribbean prize! 

14 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2017-18 

Where to go worldwide from January to December... 

15 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2017-18 

...and more ideas from January to December 

© COPYRIGHT HASLEMERE TRAVEL 

Whilst every effort has been taken in compiling this publication, Haslemere Travel cannot 

accept responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions. Haslemere Travel reserves all rights 

including copyrights in this Guide. This Guide may not be copied, reprinted, reproduced or 

transmitted in any form or in part without the prior written consent of Haslemere Travel. 

Haslemere Travel will take any necessary legal steps including issuing proceedings and 

seeking damages to enforce its rights in this Guide. Information correct at time of going to 

print. Subject to change without notice. Hotels and facilities featured are detailed only as 

a guide and not given as a recommendation or recommended above any other. Inclusion in 

this Guide should not be seen as a recommendation by Haslemere Travel. 

Published in 2016 

Haslemere Travel Ltd, 

2/4 Petworth Road, 

Haslemere, Surrey, 

GU27 2HR 

Tel: 01428 658 777 

DESIGN & PRODUCTION 

The Carrier Group 

www.thecarriergroup.co.uk 

Printed on certified paper from managed 

forests using vegetable based inks. 

Cover Image: The awe-inspiring Treasury at Petra, Jordan. 

See Gemma’s Jordan report on page 8. 

My first year as owner of Haslemere Travel has certainly 

been busy and eventful! Having just returned from two 

amazing trips to Jordan (see page 8), I barely had time to 

dust the sand off my shoes before flying to Lisbon for the 

last little jaunt of the year. But that’s the way we like it here 

– our passion for travel and our frequent visits to worldwide 

luxury destinations, in search of up-to-date knowledge and 

exclusive benefits for our clients, is what sets us apart from 

any other travel company. As they say, it’s not always what 

you know, but who you know. (We’re thrilled Joanna Lumley 

told us her travel tales, see page 11...) 

We have also been working hard on organising new 

events. The latest of these is our exciting Haslemere 

Travel Literary Evening in May, which will be part of the 

2017 Haslemere Festival. 

The Russian theme for this special occasion includes 

Anna Pasternak, author of a new book about the woman 

who inspired her great-uncle, Boris Pasternak, to write Dr 

Zhivago; as well as Downton Abbey’s celebrated producer 

Liz Trubridge, who will be bringing the book to TV screens 

soon. Excitingly, we will also be launching a bespoke 

Russian travel experience in partnership with Kirker Holidays. 

One of my happiest tasks in 2016 has been to proudly 

collect several industry awards on behalf of the team, 

which take pride of place in our shop. And in the spirit of 

rewards, it is my great pleasure to announce that for the 

first time, Haslemere Travel will be rewarding loyal clients 

with the opportunity to win a Caribbean holiday, to be taken 

in 2018. Every client who books a holiday with us in 2017 

will be entered into the prize draw – the more you book, the 

more entries you will receive (see page 13 for more details.) 

Do follow us on twitter, facebook and Instagram, check 

our website or send me an email to sign up to our regular 

newsletter and we can keep you informed of the very best 

holiday offers, our travel news and forthcoming events. 

I hope you enjoy this magazine and we look forward to 

helping you plan your next travel adventure. 

GEMMA ANTROBUS 

Owner 

Please follow us and tag us into your holiday snaps 

#haslemeretravel 

facebook.com/haslemeretravel 

@haslemeretravel 

@haslemeretravel 

2 TRAVELLER 2017 haslemeretravel.co.uk 01428 658 777

CONTRIBUTORS 

GEMMA & RAY 

gemma@haslemeretravel.co.uk 

Room with the best view? 

Ladera, St Lucia – 1,000ft 

above the sea and between 

the Piton mountains 

Most romantic hotel? 

Ladera, St Lucia – where 

we had our honeymoon 

We never forget to pack... 

Insect repellent, Gemma 

having had malaria twice 

TERRY 

terry@haslemeretravel.co.uk 


The Dolder Grand overlooking 

Lake Zurich (page 12) or the 

Felix Bar on the 28th floor of 

the Peninsula hotel, Kowloon 

Hong Kong. Hard to choose... 


The Ocean Pavilion Suite at 

Huvafen Fushi, Maldives 

I never forget to pack... 

Anything! 

SUSIE 

susie@haslemeretravel.co.uk 


Wildflower Hall, Shimla, 

8,000ft up in the Himalayas 


Tintswalo, Atlantic Hotel, 

Cape Town, South Africa 


A toothbrush 

JACKIE 

jackie@haslemeretravel.co.uk 


On safari from our tent 

in Kenya where we 

watched zebra, giraffe and 

wildebeest wandering past 


Kiwayu in Kenya 


A good book 

HANNA F 

hannaf@haslemeretravel.co.uk 


Ms Savor (Tauck) cruising 

along the Danube - so many 

beautiful views (see p6)! 


Gran Hotel Son Net, Mallorca 


My own case! You don’t 

get nick-named “Lady Lost 

Luggage” for nothing! 

ALY 

experience@haslemeretravel.co.uk 


Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur, 

India. Or Hotel Danieli, Venice 


Villa San Michele, Florence or 

almost anywhere on Tioman 

Island, Malaysia 


My camera 

OUR ELITE CONSULTANTS 

As well as the team in our shop (many of whom are 

pictured above), Haslemere Travel also boasts a 

bespoke division of Elite Travel Consultants (pictured 

left with Gemma), selling luxury travel to their own 

client databases. 

Based across the UK in locations as wide ranging as 

Edinburgh, West Sussex, London and Dorset, these 

passionate and knowledgeable team members enjoy 

full admin support from our Haslemere HQ and benefit 

from regular training and educational opportunities. 

If you would like to get in touch with one of our 

Elite Consultants or find out how you could join 

this team, contact Gemma via email at: 

gemma@haslemeretravel.co.uk 

01428 658 777 haslemeretravel.co.uk TRAVELLER 2017 3

INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS 

“I WAS IMMEDIATELY 

AMAZED BY ALL 

THE WONDROUS 

COLOURS, SIGHTS 

AND SMELLS” 

WELLNESS 

INDIA & THE HIMALAYAS 

GEMMA’S FIRST TRIP TO INDIA WAS 

AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE 

After an easy, direct flight with Virgin to New 

Delhi, in April I took my first steps in India. I was 

immediately amazed by all the wondrous colours, 

sights and smells, my senses were on full alert. 

After a comfortable night in the capital at the Oberoi 

Gurgaon hotel, I took a brief orientation tour, driving 

past the Presdient’s House, Parliament House and 

admiring the most imposing features of renowned 

Surrey architect Sir Edwin Lutyens’ designs for Delhi. 

A visit to the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, the largest 

Sikh temple in Delhi, with its glistening gold dome, 

was inspirational. Our fascinating day ended with 

dinner at the iconic 1930s, 5-star hotel Imperial. 

The following morning we caught a short domestic 

flight to Dehradun, with a one-hour transfer in 

air-conditioned, chauffeured vehicles to Ananda in 

the Himalayas, a renowned destination spa in the 

foothills of the Himalayas (pictured above, top right). 

Nothing prepares you for your first sight of this 

mountain range, it is the definition of awe-inspiring 

and one I will never forget. Located in the tranquil 

foothills, this extraordinary hotel, close to the 

mythological cities of Haridwar and Rishikesh, 

is surrounded by forests, overlooking the sacred 

Ganges as it meanders in the distance. 

The views may leave you breathless, but the 

hotel takes you back to a calm, bygone age, as 

the façade of the palace of the Maharaja of Tehri 

Garhwal fronts the hotel. Having played host to 

some of India’s most renowned heads of state 

during the Maharaja’s reign, it now offers complete 

luxury for the traveller. A billiards room houses the 

oldest billiards table in India; while the Viceregal 

Tea Lounge retains the old-world charm and 

understated elegance of times gone by – a perfect 

place to enjoy a cup of Darjeeling tea. With 70 

elegant rooms and suites, as well as three villas, 

each has a panoramic view of the palace or valley. 

The hotel offers a wide range of activities, such 

as water rafting on the Ganges river with its 

formidable rapids, nature walks, treks and a safari 

option in Rajaji National Park, spread across 820 sq 

km around Ananda, home to 500 elephants and a 

birdwatchers’ paradise. 

But my favourite pastime was experiencing what 

the amazing Spa had to offer, one of the best in the 

world. First I had my dosha read and then followed 

the programme given to me by the Ayurvedic doctor. 

I enjoyed plenty of Ayurvedic treatments and was 

well and truly rubbed, scrubbed and pummelled. As 

a novice, I also enjoyed yoga at dawn every morning. 

I returned home feeling very Zen and spiritual 

(pictured above, top left). I can’t recommend this 

highly enough as a way to de-stress. 

But the true essence of India and the highlight event 

for me was the lighting of the lamps for Ganga Aarati 

at Rishikesh, a wonderful, Hindu spiritual experience; 

performed each evening at sundown on the banks of 

the holy river, it starts with sacred chants and a fire 

ceremony and ends with singing by saffron-robed 

disciples as the sun sets. A photo opportunity not to 

be missed (pictured above, bottom left). 

“NOTHING PREPARES YOU 

FOR YOUR FIRST SIGHT OF 

THIS MOUNTAIN RANGE” 

Back in Delhi, I ended my stay with a night at one 

of India’s newest and most luxurious destination 

resorts, the all-suite ITC Grand Bharat, which is a 

1.5 hour drive from the capital. 

Prior to going to India, I was excited but a little 

apprehensive about my inaugural visit – including 

fears about stomach upsets – but they were very 

quickly dissipated. Yes, the driving can be hairraising, 

with 8-lane motorways and cars avoiding 

cows every now and then – but the people we met 

were universally welcoming and kind, I felt very well 

for the entire stay and I can’t wait to go back and 

experience the many wondrous sights and sounds 

I found on this extraordinary visit. 


GRENADA 

Gemma and Ray go back to this spice island 

In June, we revisited Grenada after many years 

absence and were reminded how much we liked 

this Caribbean, spice island gem. After a direct 

Virgin Atlantic flight, our two-week trip begun in 

5-star, family-owned Calabash Luxury Boutique 

& Spa, a resort with a laidback Caribbean vibe; 

breakfasts are ordered the night before and 

served in your verandah or balcony, so no queues 

at busy buffets! 

Food features highly, it is home to two of the 

island’s best restaurants, including Gary Rhodes’ 

restaurant for special occasions – and of course 

no trip to this scenic island would be complete 

without a visit to taste the yummy products at 

Diamond Chocolate factory. I also recommend 

an island tour, to see its beautiful waterfalls and 

taste spices galore. The beautiful flora of the 

island bloom everywhere, such as the striking 

native plant Helonica (pictured right). 

Refurbished last year, Calabash has only 30 rooms 

(some suites with plunge pools) and 5 estate 

houses, so its intimate atmosphere is a huge 

attraction, with a great spa and amazing views 

from its cliff-edge location overlooking the bay. 

We also loved 5-star Spice Island Beach Resort, 

owned and managed by Sir Royston Hopkin – this 

is a hotspot for the Royal family, as Princess Anne 

has visited a number of times and Prince Harry 

recently stayed during his official tour at the end 

of last year. Set on the quieter southern end of 

the famous Grand Anse beach, it is a full-service 

resort with spa, kids club and water sports. The 

international-style service is exceptional and we 

loved the Seagrape suites right on the beach, with 

direct access to the beautiful white sands. 

Gemma, Ray and Aurelia basking in the sunshine of the Caribbean 

SEYCHELLES 

BEACH TRIPS 

Jackie is enchanted by her first visit to 

“picture-perfect paradise” 

My inaugural trip to this archipelago of 115 

islands in the Indian Ocean last November 

exceeded all my high expectations. The famous 

turquoise waters surround pristine, dazzling 

white beaches framed by granite boulders. My 

top recommendation is to combine a couple of 

islands during any trip, as the topography differs 

greatly. The inner granite and smaller islands 

(where the majority of the population live) 

clustered around Mahe, Praslin and La Digue 

are lush, tropical verdant forests with a rich 

diversity of flora and fauna. Praslin is home to 

the Vallee de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, 

where an abundance of the curious Coco de Mer 

grow, one of the botanical wonders of the world; 

in contrast, the outer islands are a sparkling 

array of flat, coralline islands extending 

westwards towards the coast of Africa. 

The Seychelles offers superb sailing, diving and 

excellent fishing, home to some of the world’s 

rarest species of birds, giant tortoises and 

magnificent palm trees. It has many influences 

– African, Asian and even Caribbean! But the 

vibe in general is slower... 

My first night was spent at 4-star Constance 

Ephelia Resort, set within 120 acres and with 

a plethora of activities to choose from – ideal 

for families. From there, I flew to Denis Island 

Private Island; fringed by coral reefs, white 

sands and coconut palms. This is an unspoilt 

paradise, somewhere to get away from the 

stresses of life! No TV and little internet, so 

not for those who want to remain in touch 24/7. 

Cottages are dotted around the island; it has 

a rustic charm and feels very much as if you 

have been invited to stay as a guest. The staff 

were always friendly, but not with a feeling 

that they were told to! The owners live in a very 

understated house and very much take part in 

the running of the island. Conservation is very 

important; they have the most amazing farm and are 

nearly completely self-sufficient. It was my favourite 

island and I would love to go back! 

A good alternative for those who want more on 

offer, The Four Seasons in Mahe has a welcoming 

atmosphere, set among dense tropical greenery, with 

villas dotted around the hillside with amazing views. 

It combines luxury with locally inspired architecture. 

Many different activities are on offer, with a fun kids 

club and water sports centre. 

Recently refurbished, Constance Lemuria in Praslin is 

a large resort, but if you are a keen golfer this is ideal 

for you; the Seychelles’ only golf course must have 

some of the best views ever! The resort straddles two 

lovely beaches, with immaculate gardens. 

For good weather, you can travel to the Seychelles 

most of the year (except perhaps Nov-Jan). As it is 

tropical you have to expect some showers, but they 

seem to be short-lived and it’s always warm (rarely 

cooler than 24 or above 33 degrees C). Happily, the 

islands are malaria-free; Oct-May is best for water 

sports as the sea is calmer. 

With a plethora of five-star hotels available, my 

advice is book to go now! 


RHINE & MOSELLE 

Gemma tours two scenic inland waterways 

For my first river cruise, in May I travelled on Tauck’s 

MS Grace, along the scenic northbound Rhine and 

Moselle inland waterways, for the first five days of 

a 13-day itinerary, beginning my journey in Basel, 

Switzerland. 

For my first full day, a knowledgeable and affable 

local guide took us on a tour of the city by comfortable 

coach, followed by a walking tour of the Old Town, 

including the red-painted city hall, the Rathaus. (A full 

day in lakeside Lucerne was another option.) 

The third day was spent in Strasbourg, the crossroads 

of Europe, where we drove through the beautiful city’s 

European Union district and admired the modern 

architecture of the European Parliament buildings. 

The 11th century Gothic cathedral was fascinating, 

with its stunning pink facade; Petite-France is 

one of Strasbourg’s prettiest and most enchanting 

neighbourhoods. Alsatian folklorists performed before 

we had dinner back on board. 

The following day’s highlight was a trip to Baden- 

Baden and the Black Forest, a favourite spa 

destination of royal visitors and celebrities, including 

Queen Victoria, Brahms and Napoleon III; the Casino is 

the oldest and most traditional in Europe. Shuttles to 

and from the destinations were available throughout 

the afternoon, also returning us to the boat for lunch. 

My final day was spent in the romantic town of 

Heidelberg, where we took a walking tour of the Old 

Town Square and visited the ruins of Heidelberger 

Schloss, Germany’s finest Gothic-Renaissance castle. 

In the afternoon, the boat set sail for Rüdesheim in 

the Rhine Valley wine country for a special reception 

and dinner ashore at Schloss Johannisberg or Burg 

Schwarzenstein, estates that have been producing 

wine for more than 1,000 years. 

River cruises are an excellent way to explore the 

historic, cultural and culinary traditions that 

have evolved in these areas of central Europe. I 

was pleasantly surprised how spacious and well 

appointed the ship was, with excellent food and 

service; there was a high staff to guest ratio, with a 

mix of nationalities on board (US, New Zealand, UK 

and others). Dress code for dining is resort casual, 

although flip-flops and shorts are discouraged in the 

evening. Conveniently, all gratuities, including those 

for bus drivers, local guides, restaurant and hotel 

staff, are included in the price of the holiday. 

On my final day, I was very reluctant to return home 

and leave my fellow passengers who happily went on 

to sail down these beautiful rivers for another week… 

DANUBE TOUR 

RIVER CRUISES 

Terry travels along one of Europe’s largest rivers 

Joining the Eastbound Danube cruise last August in 

Passau, Bavaria (having missed the first two days 

in Prague of the week-long trip), I was allocated an 

extremely comfortable and spacious cabin, which was 

blissfully quiet, despite the fact it was at the rear of 

the ship. The two floor-to-ceiling windows afforded 

amazing views and the cabin stewardess was efficient 

and friendly, placing full tour details and next day’s 

events itinerary in my cabin each day. 

There was a good and interesting range of locations 

to explore along this majestic river. I undertook 

excursions to Cesky Krumlov (Czech Republic); Grein, 

Grafenegg and Gottweig (Austria); Cerveny Kamen 

Castle (Slovakia); and the Belvedere Palace and 

Schoenbrunn Palace in Vienna. Nothing was too much 

trouble for the Tauck team; if anyone wished to visit 

somewhere independently, such as a church, then they 

would happily arrange it via a taxi ride – I am unaware 

of any other company that would arrange this as a 

complimentary excursion. 

The tour guides were extremely knowledgeable and 

the information cards and leaflets packed with useful 

information on each port of call. Small groups would 

be taken in opposite directions to avoid overcrowding; 

and, conveniently, tips were sorted directly by Tauck. 

Special events, such as a Gala Dinner in an imperial 

palace with music, or a special luncheon in a heuriger 

(typical tavern with music) are exclusive to Tauck and 

prove popular. The coaches were spotless, with plenty 

of bottled water available if required. 

But the ship itself was the real star. MS Savor carries 

a maximum of 130 guests in 67 cabins and suites, 

located on three decks. The entire top level is a Sun 

Deck, with a putting green and a plunge pool at the 

rear, with ample chairs and loungers and shading if 

required. 

The palatial landmark Grand Hotel Wein in Vienna 

where I stayed was centrally located, with easy access 

to various museums, parks, churches, galleries and 

shopping, with pavement cafes nearby. Luggage was 

taken care of from cabin to the hotel room and viceversa 

if needed. 

My first – and hopefully not my last – river cruise on 

one of Tauck’s vessels, was an amazing adventure, 

which offered plenty of opportunity for immersion in 

different cultures. There was not one element of this 

trip that I could fault, from start to finish! 


ADVENTURE TRAVELLER 

CO STA RICA 

SUSIE FINDS SOME WONDERFUL 

WILDLIFE OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 

Costa Rica has long been regarded as the 

“Switzerland of the Americas”, with its peaceful 

history, lack of armed forces and scenic 

pasturelands; but it also boasts magnificent wildlife, 

a rugged Pacific coastline, as well as Caribbean 

beaches, 800 species of bird, four types of primate, 

two species of sloth, numerous snakes and insects. 

A nature lover’s paradise, where the countrywide 

emphasis on protection has allowed most species 

to flourish. 

I visited in June and flew directly with BA to San 

Jose, staying overnight at the peaceful Hotel Grano 

de Oro, converted from a tropical Victorian mansion. 

An early start the next day (with breakfast boxes 

provided) was followed by a drive along the Pan 

American highway towards the Caribbean coast to 

Torteguero and the riverside Pachira Lodges (short 

flights are also an option). The last leg of our journey 

was by boat, a great way to start spotting wildlife – 

we saw caiman, geckos and red dart frogs. 

“BEWARE - MONKEYS 

CAN SPRING OUT AT YOU 

AT ANY MOMENT!” 

On arrival, we were immediately introduced to more 

of the celebrated Costa Rican wildlife, as monkeys 

can spring out at you at any moment! Boat trips 

along the river gave me the opportunity to spot 

more animals (such as armadillo, howler and spider 

monkeys, white-faced capuchins, lizards, turtles 

and a variety of birds) – I suggest either the 6am 

or 4pm trips for the best chance to see them active. 

July and August is the best time to go if you want to 

see the turtles laying their eggs. 

An alternative hotel I also recommend was the 

Evergreen, which has 66 rooms and bungalows, 

a good pool area and plenty of activities on offer, as 

well as a canopy tour, kayaks and river guides. 

After a short flight with amazing views of Torteguero, 

the river and national park, we arrived back at San 

Jose and a nearby coffee plantation, before reaching 

Poas Volcano. One highlight of our stay at Relais 

& Chateaux property El Silencio in Bajos del Toro 

(approximately 1.5 hours from San Jose) was a walk 

to the waterfall; it is set in a 550-acre cloud forest 

reserve close to Poas Volcano Park. 

Next on our fascinating trip was Arenal, a very active 

destination for adrenaline junkies, activities range 

from hiking up Arenal or zip wiring to Zorbing. I 

chose to visit the hanging bridges of Mistico. Our 

first attempt was thwarted by an amazing thunder 

and lightning show; the guide was very informative 

about both flora and fauna. The Arenal Springs Hotel 

is great for families, with three restaurants, some 

interconnecting rooms and pools heated from the 

hot springs. I particularly liked the Kioro Hotel, with 

rooms which have hot tubs and full views of the 

volcano (pictured below). 

Following a drive down the Pacific coast – via 

a stop at Monteverde to see the wonderful sloths 

(pictured below) – we arrived in the town of Manuel 

Antonio, with a chance to relax by the sea. But 

wildlife is still never far away, with an early morning 

visit to the national park offering us the chance 

to see more sloths and especially capuchins, who 

seemed to know when we were due to eat our 

lunches on the beach and raided our backpacks! 

Arenas del Mar is a boutique hotel within walking 

distance of the national park and a good choice for 

those seeking relaxation. Si Como No hotel has its 

own conservation programme of rescued alligators 

and is very popular with couples, as they boast 

amazing honeymoon suites with stunning views 

of the ocean. My hotel for two nights, The Parador 

Resort, is built high over the coastline in 12 acres 

of tropical rainforest with a resident sloth; another 

good option for families with four pools and a swim 

up bar for adults, tennis courts, spa and babysitting. 

Once again you have to be prepared for wildlife to 

carry on with their busy lives around you… 


I T A L I A N 

VILLAS 


Gemma & Ray’s long weekend in Lucca 

Italy is always popular with our clients and thus we 

are constantly seeking new experiences for you to 

enjoy. Which is why Ray and I found ourselves in 

Lucca, Tuscany last October, when the weather is 

invariably still mild. 

We stayed at one of the many delightful, luxury three 

to 14 bedroom villas available, many of which offer 

spectacular views, while all of them are gorgeous, 

traditional homes, which can also be fully staffed 

and catered if you wish. And happily the famous 

wine regions of the area are never far away. 

JORDAN 

Gemma & Ray enjoy a Middle East experience 

Having never been to the Hashemite Kingdom of 

Jordan before last year, I was lucky enough to go 

twice in 2016 – in both September and November 

(the only difference being that temperatures were 

much cooler later in the year). 

We soon discovered that Jordan is steeped in 

history; it has been home to some of mankind’s 

earliest settlements and relics of the world’s 

great civilisations can still be seen, unspoilt, 

today. We knew relatively little of Jerash (above 

right) beforehand; the stunning, preserved ruins 

of what was once one of the greatest provincial 

cities in Rome’s empire (and just two hours 

from the capital Amman.) It is well worth a visit, 

accompanied by a knowledgeable guide who can 

bring the once great city to life. 

But what most visitors associate with Jordan is 

the extraordinary city of Petra (above left) and 

this must be a highlight for any trip (4 hours from 

Amman). Made famous to a generation of fans by 

the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, this 

legendary city, built in solid, pink sandstone rock, 

is approached through a narrow gorge, known as 

the Siq, which builds the suspense. The first sight 

of the celebrated Treasury building really does 

leave you speechless… 

For those seeking rest and relaxation, Jordan 

has the ultimate experience – a float and mud 

treatment at the Dead Sea is unforgettable – 

don’t forget to take something to read for the 

proverbial float photo! 

Only two hours from Amman, Ray’s highlight 

was the 4x4 jeep safari in the deserts of Wadi 

Rum (below), made famous by the heroic 

exploits of Lawrence of Arabia, when he 

played a pivotal role in the struggle for power 

in the Middle East. A camel ride across these 

isolated rocks and sands is a memorable way 

to travel too, especially to a Bedouin camp for 

a traditional meal and music. The silence in 

the desert is awe-inspiring – and nights are 

wonderful for star-gazing. 

We found the Jordanian people warm and 

welcoming and, despite its geographic 

location, we felt very safe everywhere we 

went. Highly recommended as a genuinely 

authentic Middle Eastern experience, which 

you won’t forget in a hurry. 

The birthplace of great opera composer Puccini, 

Lucca is sited within its Renaissance city walls and 

cobbled streets, close to the coast and within a 

day’s ride of art-filled Florence and at the foothills 

of the Apuan Alps. Nearby Forte dei Marmi, with its 

wonderful restaurants and high-end shops, is a 

must-visit too. 

But our top tip is to be sure to find time to drive 

a fast, luxury car around the lanes of Tuscany 

– I became very fond of my white Porsche... 

(see page 13). 

Novelist Henry James once described Lucca as 

“overflowing with everything”; what more could 

one ask for on a long weekend break? Why not 

take the plunge and book a luxury weekend away 

with extended family - or friends - to this stunning 

landscape of rolling hills and cypress trees? 

You won’t regret it. 


TUSCANY 

Jackie takes a walking break with friends 

In September I went away with several girl 

friends to the wilds of Tuscany, north of the 

ancient walled city of Lucca, for a week’s 

break. We were looking to do something a little 

different, so we decided on a walking holiday. 

A perfect combination of exercise, delicious 

Tuscan, home-cooked food, wonderful scenery - 

and more importantly plenty of time to chat! 

We stayed in a charming rustic farmhouse, 

nestling within Tuscany’s mountainous 

Garfagnana region. Our walks took us from the 

vineyards and ochre-coloured hill-towns of the 

lower valleys up to the high ridges and summits 

of the Alpi Apuane. 

We started with a huge breakfast, walked all day 

(c6-10 hours) over mainly well-established trails 

and in the evening enjoyed a delicious guilt-free 

dinner and marvellous Italian wine. 

The walk was sometimes harder than we 

expected, mainly because we hadn’t fully read 

the description! But our wonderful guide Kathy 

encouraged us and we all felt a great sense of 

achievement when we reached the summit. Our 

‘day off’ midweek was a well earned rest by the 

pool, but there were options to visit nearby Pisa, 

medieval Lucca or the artistic treasures 

of Florence. 

We have now caught the bug and are already 

planning for 2017. 

Walking sparks conversation and conviviality. It 

is not competitive and completely inclusive. We 

laughed for hours and all of us felt really good 

about what we had achieved. Highly recommended. 

AMSTERDAM 

EUROPEAN BREAKS 

Aly enjoys going back to this enchanting city 

Returning to Amsterdam in October, after an 

absence of 30 years, it was wonderful to see 

it through the eyes of our teenage daughter, 

visiting for the first time. 

Our hotel was located in the cultural museum 

quarter, just a stone’s throw from the celebrated 

(and newly renovated) Rijksmuseum and the 

modern Van Gogh Museum. With previously 

booked tickets, we managed to avoid the queues 

and marvelled at the art in both locations – and 

enjoyed an excellent meal at the latter. 

After a canal trip to get our bearings, walking is 

certainly one of the best ways to see the sights, 

if you are not tempted by riding a ubiquitous 

bicycle. The green lawns of the city’s largest 

park, Vondelpark were also close by and we 

enjoyed strolling through it towards a canalside 

café to watch the houseboats, or listen to one of 

the many church bells ring. 

A visit to an old merchant’s house is a must – 

our top recommendation is the extraordinary 

17th century Ons’Lieve Heer Op Solder (“Our 

Lord in the Attic”), with its secret, hidden 

Catholic church at the top of the building. But 

the museum everyone wants to see – judging by 

the lengthy queues (shortest in the evening)– 

is Anne Frank’s House. Open every day until 

9.30pm, tourists now flock to see the family’s 

final hiding place: it is well worth the wait. 

As a passionate English student, my daughter 

was fascinated by the Dutch art which inspired 

two of her favourite novels – The Goldfinch and 

The Girl With the Pearl Earring. A short train ride 

from the city to The Hague takes you to the 

Mauritshuis museum, home to some of the best 

Dutch paintings, including both the beautiful, 

aforementioned artworks. 

We recommend you try some Dutch delicacies 

– apart from the local cheese (kaas), there is 

bitterballen (deep-fried meatballs), stroopwaffel 

(waffles) and even raw herring (sweetest from 

May-July). 

Finally, if you are feeling flush – or just love 

everything that sparkles – take a tour around a 

diamond-polishing factory, such as Coster, who 

have created jewellery for royals and celebrities 

worldwide. You might just be tempted… 


SOUTH AFRICA 

Hanna F enjoys safaris, wine tasting and 

delicious food 

In mid-December I flew direct to Johannesburg with 

BA and then took a 45-minute flight to Madikwe to 

begin an amazing trip in this fascinating country. 

My first stay was at Madikwe Hills main camp 

(pictured above middle), situated in the far north of 

the NW Province, in the middle of 75,000 hectares 

of park and borders with Botswana. It is home to 

66 large mammals species, including the Big Five 

(happily I spotted 3 during my day’s trip), as well 

as 300 resident and migrant bird species. Our 

game drivers were extremely knowledgeable and 

the friendly staff, good food and well-stocked, 

complimentary mini bar, ensured we felt very 

welcome. My private game lodge room, set among 

boulders and age-old Tamboti trees was spacious, 

with a plunge pool outside and there were childfriendly 

safaris available. This location is hard to 

beat for safaris… 

I next flew to Cape Town and after a 1.5 hour 

transfer, enjoyed a couple of nights in the area, 

based first at Leeu House, Franschhoek (above 

right) and Le Quartier Francais. This is a lovely 

boutique hotel, with a real home feel to it; the 12 

rooms are cosy, with fireplaces for chilly evenings. 

It is located on the town’s main strip, so ideal for 

admiring the distinct Cape Dutch architecture 

and access to the choice of bars and restaurants. 

A tour of the Winelands is a must. I enjoyed a 

Cape Classic Cuisine Walk in Stellenbosch, the 

second oldest town in South Africa, followed by a 

wine tasting at Delaire Graff Estate. 

Back in Cape Town, my home for the next two 

nights was the One & Only Cape Town, in an 

ideal waterfront location, next to shops and 

entertainment. This is a large, family-friendly 

hotel with an excellent kids club and well-stocked 

rooms – the buffet breakfast had a huge variety 

of delectable dishes available! 

A tour to Cape Point included lunch at the spectacular 

Two Oceans restaurant and a chance to see the iconic 

lighthouse. But my top tips are to book a table for dinner 

at the Stack and go up Table Mountain, as well as visit 

Camps Bay for a taste of the “rich and famous lifestyle”. 

It was hard to fly home after such an extraordinary visit 

– but at least there was no jet lag when I returned, as 

the time difference is minimal. 

ICELAND 


Susie’s adventure in this geological hotspot 

On arrival in Reykjavik last October, I was 

driven to the 4-star Hotel Borg, a charming Art 

Deco property in the main Parliament Square, 

one of the best located in the city and in 

walking distance of the cathedral. 

An excellent meal at its sister hotel fortified us 

for a night-time search for the Northern Lights, 

an excursion by 4x4 “super jeep”, specially 

customised Land Rover Defenders (pictured 

right), designed to tackle the island’s rough 

terrain and extreme weather. (The best time to 

see the Lights is in March however, when all 

the snow has fallen.) 

On my second day I visited Iceland’s Golden 

Circle, which includes many of the republic’s 

greatest natural phenomena – a perfect 

introduction to its extraordinary geology and 

history. Thingvellir National Park is where 

you can see the tectonic plates of Eurasia 

and North America gradually pulling apart, 

it was fascinating to see; it’s also the home 

of Icelandic history, where the Viking settlers 

founded its Parliament in 930AD. 

The spectacular geysers, hot springs, steam vents 

and brightly coloured algae of Strokkur are aweinspiring, 

but a highlight was taking the jeeps on 

to the Langjökull glacier, the second largest ice 

cap in the country. You can also go off on skidoos, 

or, like me, just enjoy a beer while trying not to 

slide around! 

The following day we experienced a different 

landscape on the south shore, with lush farmland, 

sandy coastline and striking waterfalls, set to a 

backdrop of mountains, volcanoes and glaciers. 

Returning to Reykjavik later in the day, we passed 

picturesque, historic villages, with many houses 

dating from the 18th century, painted in a range 

of bright colours. 

On our final day we experienced the beauty and 

thermal waters of the celebrated Blue Lagoon, a 

unique way to experience Iceland – but don’t forget 

your swimming costume to enjoy a warm bathe. 

Iceland can be visited year-round, and I discovered 

that its capital Reykjavik is just one small part 

of the country and in the summer, a hire car is 

recommended to explore further; one road takes 

you all the way round the island in about 8 days. 


WANDERING STAR 

JOANNA 

LUMLEY 

National treasure Joanna Lumley OBE 

FRGS is the leading Appeal Patron for 

Grange Park Opera’s ‘Theatre in the 

Woods’ in Surrey, the first new opera 

house to be built in the UK for decades. 

Happily, it is not far from our shop, so 

we seized the chance to catch up with 

Joanna to ask about her travels, love 

of music …and black trousers. 

As an author, actress, TV presenter and former 

model, has overseas travel always played an 

important part in your life? 

Yes, because I was born in a suitcase leaving 

India at the age of one and living in Hong Kong 

and Malaysia until I was eight. Long sea voyages 

punctuated my childhood and left me with a longing 

to keep moving. 

What do you never forget to pack on your 

travels? 

Black trousers, a torch and books. 

Which passport stamp are you most proud of? 

Pretty keen on my Mongolian one (pictured above). 

Do you have a favourite destination you return 

to as often as possible? 

I loved Ethiopia, where I made part of a 

documentary, with a passion, and plan to return as 

soon as I can. 

Where would you like to go next…? 

India again: filming but also savouring the fabulous 

variety of that stupendous country (pictured below). 

Who is your dream travel companion? 

My husband; but I mostly travel now with a tiny 

film crew. We have become best friends and I love 

working with them. 

Music plays a big part in your life too…why is it 

so important to you? 

I was born listening to the greats… Mozart, 

Beethoven, Dvorak, Chopin... on a wind-up 

gramophone in the Far East. I would suffocate with 

no music in my life. 

What persuaded you to take on the role of 

Patron for Grange Park Opera (GPO)’s appeal 

for its exciting, new Theatre in the Woods? 

It was the easiest decision I have ever made. I 

love what GPO does, and how it behaves: all are 

welcome and their standards are sky-high. The 

Theatre in the Woods is stunningly attractive 

and will be a new wonder of the glorious Surrey 

countryside (pictured below, right). 

What are your ambitions for this extraordinary, 

new opera house, which is currently being built 

in 350 acres of beautiful landscape and historic 

gardens, surrounding 15th century mansion 

West Horsley Place? 

It will be utterly magical: the combination of the 

majesty of that ancient house (pictured below, left) 

and its grand spreading gardens, and the music 

and dance that will take place in the Theatre in the 

Woods will be unbeatable. 

GPO initiatives such as £35 tickets for the 

under-35s seek to encourage the young 

to sample opera – do you recall your first 

performance? 

Grace Bumbry singing Aida in about 1964… 

awesome. 

When the curtain rises on 8th June 2017, sum up 

in three words what you will be feeling…? 

Thrilled, proud and happy. 

If you could cast your perfect opera, who would 

perform and what would it be? 

Maria Callas and Jussi Bjorling in Tosca. Hearing 

Callas singing Vissi d’arte is a masterclass in 

both singing and acting; she was truly as good as 

it gets. She knew exactly how to portray passion, 

despair, love and hatred, and Puccini’s music is 

sublime. Jussi Bjorling had a voice I would swim 

oceans to hear. A giant. 

And if you had to describe yourself as a 

character in an opera, who would it be and why? 

I would rather like to be the Countess in The 

Marriage of Figaro: although she has a rather 

wretched time with a scoundrel of a husband, she 

has an aria so lovely that whenever I hear the music 

beginning I start to sob hopelessly. 


ZURICH 

GREECE 

Terry’s luxury short break is a big surprise 

The location of the Dolder Grand Hotel – 

in a forest, in an elevated position with 

magnificent views of the city, lake and snowcapped 

mountains – is hard to beat. 

Privately owned, during my stay in May I 

discovered that its recent refurbishment 

works well; its art collection remains (one 

of the most valuable in Zurich). Dining is 

spectacular with a 2-Star Michelin option, The 

Epicure; while the bar has magical Swarovski 

candles in suspended ceiling lights. 

Rooms are modern and minimalist, with oak 

flooring and marbled bathrooms, many of 

which have hosted celebrities (the hotel itself 

has appeared in several films pictured below). 

The award-winning spa covers 4.000sqm 

and has outdoor whirlpools and a snow room. 

Yoga, tennis and 9-hole golf are available, 

while a funicular transports guests to the city. 

Far from the haven of just banks and 

commerce that I had previously imagined, 

I found the city pleasantly surprising, with 

its cobbled, spotless winding streets, 

galleries, churches and clock towers. This 

is an ideal destination for a short break – 

especially for the football fan, as the city’s 

FIFA museum was very interesting, even for 

a non fan such as me! 

Hanna enjoys precious time with her daughter 

In May, my daughter Amelia (aged 3) and I arrived 

at the prime Ionian Sea destination of Westin 

Resort Navarino Dunes at Costa Navarino, Greece 

to be greeted with a glass of Prosecco (soft for 

Amelia!) and an offer to dine at one of the resort’s 

fine restaurants, Flame. This set the tone for a 

luxury stay. 

The Westin resort is split into two – the family 

friendly Westin and the more adult-orientated 

Romanos. Amelia first enjoyed a short buggy ride 

to the Aqua Park; this has plenty of water toys 

and slides to amuse different age groups, and 

a playground attached to the site, with climbing 

frames for older children. 

SHORT BREAKS 

TENERIFE 

Terry returns to a favourite destination 

I have stayed at the Gran Hotel Bahia Del 

Duque, in the relaxing resort of the Costa 

Adeje, South Tenerife every six months and 

have done so for the past three years – and I 

am already planning my next stay! 

Knowing the hotel so well, I am able to 

request certain rooms and I have now 

sampled most of the many restaurants too, so 

I can make very informed recommendations. 

Just 20 minutes from the airport, from the 

moment you enter via its Corinthian columns, 

the Victorian and Venetian influences are 

apparent, with several piazzas giving the feel 

of a village-style property, rather than 

a large hotel. 

A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, 

with only 350 rooms and suites, as well as a 

selection of one and two-bedroom villas, you 

can opt for either garden or sea views. 

This is a great location for families, as well 

as couples and attracts a high percentage 

of repeat guests (like me!). The many dining 

options include Italian, Asian and a new 

restaurant, SUA, offering dishes from the 

Basque region of Spain. 

Facing towards the small volcanic island of 

Gomera, only 50 minutes away by ferry, it 

attracts a warm Gulf Stream climate, which 

makes the weather perfect throughout the 

winter months. 

With five swimming pools, as well as an 

adult “quiet area” located in lush, wellestablished 

gardens, I cannot fault the hotel 

for its amazing spa, service, room choice 

and exceptional dining. 

The kids’ club had a full programme of activities 

for Amelia – while I resisted a golf lesson and 

ventured towards the Anazoe Spa, a serene 

sanctuary with an exceptional menu of speciality 

treatments based on ancient beauty practices, 

using the area’s exclusive natural ingredients. It 

also offers hydrotherapy and floating pools, indoor 

and outdoor treatments areas. 

Children over 10 are able to do diving and 

snorkelling at the PADI Centre and also at nearby 

Proti Island which has good diving visibility from 

May ownards. Turtle hatchings are normally visible 

in September-November. An eco-gallery was ideal 

for the little ones, but a squash court, bowling 

alley, an American Diner and cinema catered to 

older children. 

A highlight was authentic village cooking at a 

beautiful, stone house in nearby Pylos, where 

we cooked traditional Greek noodles and made 

Galopita (traditional milk pie). An ideal way 

to discover family recipes, passed down through 

generations. 


WHAT’S NEW... 

BAGS OF FUN! 

Our eco bag enjoys jungle life in Costa Rica 

LITERARY EVENING NEXT MAY 

Haslemere Travel is delighted to announce 

that it will be hosting the first Haslemere 

Travel Literary Evening on Thursday, May 18th 

as part of this year’s Haslemere Festival. 

The exclusive event will have a Russian theme, 

with three exciting women speakers set to 

entertain guests. Anna Pasternak (above) 

(great-niece of Boris Pasternak, the Nobel 

prize-winning author of Dr Zhivago) will be 

talking about her new book “Lara: The Untold 

Love Story that inspired Dr Zhivago” – the tale 

of the true, heartbreaking love affair between 

Boris and Olga Ivinskaya. 

Carnival Films are currently developing Lara 

with Liz Trubridge, producer of Downton Abbey, 

for a major, six part TV series. Excitingly, Liz 

Trubridge has also agreed to talk about how 

she is bringing the book to the screen as part 

of this stimulating evening. 

The chair of the evening will be Val Hudson, 

former editorial director of Harper Collins and 

Hodder Headline, who is a published author 

herself and the rumoured author of A Simples 

Life, the best-selling ‘autobiography’ of the 

cravat-wearing Russian meerkat Aleksandr; 

as well as Arthur: the dog that crossed a jungle 

to find a home. 

The event will begin at 7.30pm (ending 

c9.30pm) at the Haslemere Educational 

Museum and will include refreshments during 

the interval, as well as the opportunity to 

purchase paperbacks and have them signed 

by the two authors. 

Please note: This is a ticket-only event. 

For further information, go to 

www.haslemeretravel.co.uk; to purchase 

tickets (after March 1st) which cost £15 

(wine included) call 01428 642161 or email: 

boxoffice@haslemerehall.com 

Gemma zooms around Italy in style 

Jackie gets to grips with Seychelles’ Coco de Mer 

Terry cruises down the scenic river Danube 

WILDLIFE BOOST 

A luxury prize trip donated by Haslemere 

Travel (in partnership with JG Collection/ 

ICMI Collection) for a fund-raising raffle, 

raised thousands for the new education centre 

building project at Surrey Wildlife Trust’s 

Nower Wood. 

Winners Margaret Gilbert and Tony Stanford, 

will spend nights at The Roxburghe Hotel in the 

Scottish Borders, including fly fishing tuition 

on the River Tweed; and at Greywalls, next 

to the celebrated Muirfield golf course near 

Edinburgh, dining in its Chez Roux restaurant. 

“Haslemere Travel was delighted to support 

Nower Wood. We look forward to ensuring 

the prizewinners have a wonderful trip,” 

said Gemma. 

CARIBBEAN PRIZE 

Haslemere Travel is thrilled to announce that 

this year we will be seeking to reward our loyal 

clients with a wonderful Caribbean holiday prize 

for the first time! 

The lucky winners (to be drawn in January 2018) 

will be treated to a very special prize - 7 nights 

full board for 2 people, ultra all-inclusive at East 

Winds, St Lucia - a gorgeous, boutique hotel on 

arguably the island’s finest, secluded tropical 

beach, with a whole range of activities on offer. 

Every client who books a holiday with us in 

2017 will be entered into the prize draw – the 

more holidays you book, the more entries you 

will receive. For more details, email: gemma@ 

haslemeretravel.co.uk or see our website for 

terms and conditions. Good luck! 

Ray is dressed for the desert at amazing Petra 

Email your photos with your Haslemere Travel 

Eco Bag to gemma@haslemeretravel.co.uk 

and we will print them in the next newsletter 

and feature them on our website! 


January 

SWITZERLAND 

Winter sports enthusiasts will head to the 

World Alpine Ski Championships at Piz Nair, St 

Moritz, for a chance to see the finest skiers in a 

magical setting. See Terry’s report, page 12. 

COSTA RICA 

This month the fiercest bulls from all over the 

country descend on the capital for Fiestas 

Zapote, a massive rodeo, with fair rides and 

delicious food on offer. See Susie’s report, page 7. 

WORLDWIDE EVENTS CALENDAR 

2017 

BERMUDA 

From this breathtaking island, the world’s best 

sailors on the fastest boats will battle for The 

America’s Cup, with Sir Ben Ainslie’s team seeking 

to bring the iconic trophy back home to the UK. 

May 

JORDAN 

The Jordan Rally has been thrilling spectators 

since the 1980s, as some of the world’s best 

drivers wind their way through desert, hills and 

by the Dead Sea. See Gemma’s report, page 8. 

September 

October 

GERMANY 

Oktoberfest is an event not to be missed if you like 

a glass of beer, great music and an opportunity to 

join in the merrymaking in Munich. Lederhosen is 

not compulsory… 

SEYCHELLES 

A must for foodies, Mahe, Praslin and La Digue 

celebrate everything Creole in the last week 

of the month, with crafts, dance, music and 

delicious dishes. See Jackie’s report, page 5.

Image: CANARYLUC/Shutterstock.com 

TENERIFE 

Since the 15th century, when Carnival hits Tenerife 

(Feb 19th - March 5th), it is time for an extravaganza 

of colour, light, music and merry mayhem. See 

Terry’s report, page 12. 

March 

April 

GREECE 

Easter is by far the biggest event of the year 

here, celebrated across the islands with candlelit 

processions, spit-roasted lamb and firework 

displays. See Hanna’s report, page 12. 

Our exclusive round-up of exciting cultural and sporting events and festivals around the globe. 

Call us on 01428 658 777 for more information about visiting these memorable events. 

HUNGARY 

In Budapest, the Red Bull Air Race comes 

to town, an annual acrobatic flying 

competition which takes place high over 

the Danube. See Gemma’s report, page 6. 

August 

ICELAND 

The first weekend of the month finds Iceland 

celebrating “The People’s Feast”, with bonfires, vodka 

and a music festival on Heimaey, the only inhabited 

Westmann Island. See Susie’s report, page 10. 

INDIA 

The Hornbill Festival, Nagaland, NE India is 

celebrated by several tribes, with colourful 

performances, traditional crafts, ceremonies and 

games. Why not stay in style at luxury tented 

Kohima Camp with butler service? See Gemma’s 

report, page 4. 

Image: meunierd/Shutterstock.com 

CAYMAN ISLANDS 

Perfect for families, two replica 17th century 

galleons join the Pirates Festival, which takes 

place on all 3 islands, for 10 days of music, 

dancing, fun and plenty of swashbuckling. 

november 

December

GEMMA 

Terry 

JACKIE 

Susie 

Hanna F 

Aly 

LIS 

AMY 

K 

Muffy 

MAUREEN 

KATY 

Annie 

Haslemere Travel Ltd 

2/4 Petworth Road, Haslemere, Surrey GU27 2HR 

Tel: 01428 658777 Fax: 01428 651415 

Email: experience@haslemeretravel.co.uk 

www.haslemeretravel.co.uk

Haslemere Traveller 2017

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