Beach Nov 2016

item was delivered. The octopus here is one element of a dish that includes
potatoes, olives, and vegetables, served atop thick slices of red and green
heirloom tomatoes. It’s a well composed salad of hot and cold vegetables
with a fine balance of robust flavors, but people who would like it might
not order it and some people who order it won’t like it. I could have enjoyed
it as an entrée, because there were enough flavors that I could have
just kept eating.
There was nothing conceptually unusual about the bruschetta, though
the fact that they used housemade fresh bread elevated it a few notches.
One slice was topped with tomato slices and herbs, the others with musky
wild mushrooms and a garlicky artichoke heart mix. The mussels were
also exactly what they were supposed to be, a healthy amount of shellfish
in a broth that had some bell pepper and spice, with some more of that
good grilled bread.
We ordered two salads as an intermezzo, a fennel and orange with greens
and red onion and a peach and burrata with balsamic vinegar and olive
oil. Crisp raw fennel is delightful in salads and the orange brought out the
gentle anise-like sharpness. My only quibble is that I would have liked the
fennel pieces a little thinner or smaller so it would be easier to get a mix
of flavors. The peach and burrata salad was polarizing, with some people
at our table liking it as it was and others wishing the balsamic had been
on the side so they could have the exquisitely fresh, creamy cheese and
fruit by themselves. While I was in the former camp I understand the sentiment.
During the brief wait between courses, we enjoyed music by the very
good pianist, who was joined on Broadway standards by crooning co-owner
Lou Giovanetti. Lou is a constant presence and table-hops to say hello to
friends and be sure the service is working, and though his singing is superb
not all staff members have their act together, yet. At both our table and a
neighboring booth silverware was cleared with one course and not brought
with the next one, and the timing on refilling waters and other details was
not well synchronized. It’s a new operation so things will probably smooth
out soon, but for now there is room for improvement.
For entrees, we ordered lasagna, spaghetti carbonara, pappardelle with
wild boar, and veal saltimbocca with sage. Saltimbocca is Italian for “jump
in your mouth,” one of the most poetic food names ever, and this dish delivered.
It’s simple, thinly sliced meat rolled around sage leaves, wrapped
with prosciutto, fried and topped with white wine sauce, but when done
right the salty meats, lemon, and herb is superb. It was served with mashed
potatoes and broccolini, and despite my early fears about petite entrees it
was a fine full meal.
The three pastas all hit the spot, too.The lasagna was a particularly big
hit with everyone who tried it. It’s not the usual heavy, starchy brick of
carbs drenched in sauce. The noodles are thin and the delicate béchamel
sauce and cheese are used moderately. Let your expectations go and enjoy
this, because it’s a winner.
This brings me to the only place where Primo Italia is out of balance:
the wine list. All the pastas we ordered were under $20, and the saltimbocca
is one of the most expensive items at $28, which makes it odd that
the wine list has no bottles under $38 and escalates steadily from there.
Those bottles are superb quality, but there are some very good Italian, Argentine,
and Californian wines that would go well with this food and could
be sold for less. If Primo Italia aspires to be an everyday joy, they might
want to add a few more modest bottles to the list.
We had filled up on our appetizers and mains but had to try some
desserts around the table in honor of the birthday. We tried the tiramisu,
cannoli, bread pudding, and cheesecake. All were good but the cheesecake
was the standout, made with a rich and flavorful cheese rather than the
usual bland stuff. The topping of sliced, toasted almonds and strawberry
sauce with fresh berries made this a must-try item, and whetted my appetite
to sample more.
So, is Primo Italia the restaurant that you can stop into on a whim? It’s
still a work in progress, but the outline is clear. They deliver high end food
at medium prices in a classy environment. You wouldn’t feel right there
in shorts and a T-shirt (though I presume they’d serve you), but if you want
to treat yourself just a bit, it’s worth the drive to Hillside Village.
Primo Italia is at 24590 Hawthorne Boulevard in Torrance. Open daily 5
p.m., close 10 p.m. Mon-Thur; midnight Fri-Sun. Full bar, parking in lot, some
vegetarian items. Food menu at eatprimo.com, phone 310-378-4288. B
November 10, 2016 • Easy Reader / Beach magazine 29