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CONNECTIONS October 2016 issue 17 The Presidency

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<strong>CONNECTIONS</strong> Issue # <strong>17</strong><br />

Sierra de Laguna mountain range<br />

funnels rainfall down sandy arroyos.<br />

Baja Norte A region of fertile<br />

vineyards and commercial fishing<br />

towns.<br />

Los Cabos Talk about contrasts. Once<br />

the harbor of a solitary tuna cannery,<br />

the port town of Cabo San Lucas has<br />

become a nonstop fiesta machine<br />

packed with souvenir stalls, cigar<br />

shops, and theme bars. Off the coast,<br />

the remarkable rock formation of El<br />

Arco marks Land's End. Twenty miles<br />

away, colonial San José del Cabo clings<br />

tenaciously to its Mexican heart and<br />

soul; narrow side streets reveal sleepy<br />

cantinas and folk-art boutiques.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tourist Corridor A 20-mile<br />

four-lane highway between the two<br />

major cape towns is lined with sandy<br />

beaches, golf courses, and a heavy<br />

concentration of glitzy resorts.<br />

East Cape An undeveloped region of<br />

dirt roads, dive shacks, and surf camps<br />

that is some 50 miles north of Los<br />

Cabos, on Bahía de Palmas in the Sea<br />

of Cortés. <strong>The</strong> two main fishing villages<br />

are Los Barriles and Buena Vista.<br />

Farther Afield Todos Santos, one of<br />

Baja's colonial towns, is an hour north<br />

of Los Cabos—and a world apart. If<br />

you're willing to endure a grueling<br />

drive or a bumpy twin-prop flight, it's<br />

worth the detour 250 miles north on<br />

the peninsula to Bahía Magdalena, a<br />

saltwater breeding lagoon near the<br />

cannery town of Puerto López Mateos<br />

where gray whales migrate annually.<br />

What to Do<br />

FISHING More than a half a century<br />

ago, legendary anglers like John<br />

Wayne and Ernest Hemingway were<br />

lured to Cabo for wrestling matches<br />

with the Big Three: black marlin, blue<br />

marlin, and sailfish. Today, the biggame<br />

fishing is still considered some of<br />

the world's best, with several<br />

professional contests held annually.<br />

Captain Tony Berkowitz of San Lucas<br />

Yachts (52-624/147-5679; from $500<br />

for four people) can arrange<br />

charters. Picante Bluewater<br />

Sportsfishing (52-624/143-2474;<br />

day charter from $955 for five people)<br />

and Pisces Sportfishing & Luxury<br />

Yacht Charters (52-624/143-1288 or<br />

619/819-7983; day charter from $320<br />

for four people) also have Englishspeaking<br />

captains and tournamentcaliber<br />

gear.<br />

DIVING About 1 1/2 hours northeast<br />

of San José, Cabo Pulmo shelters the<br />

only coral reef system in the Sea of<br />

Cortés. Stretching a mile offshore, this<br />

national marine park teems with<br />

parrot fish, moray eels, manta rays,<br />

and giant coral heads. Vista Sea<br />

Sport (Buena Vista; 52-624/141-<br />

0031; two-hour trips $35 per person)<br />

takes you snorkeling among sea turtles<br />

or diving under the reef of El Bajo de<br />

los Morros.<br />

SURFING <strong>The</strong> nomadic surf tribes<br />

from SoCal and Hawaii love the long<br />

barrels, cheap combo platters, and<br />

even cheaper digs at casual trailer<br />

13

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