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SPLIT BACK TANK<br />
by Allison Griffith<br />
Pattern #55759<br />
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS<br />
28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60)” finished<br />
bust measurement; garment is meant to be<br />
worn with 0-2” of positive ease.<br />
YARN<br />
Knit Picks Lindy Chain (70% Linen, 30%<br />
Pima Cotton; 180 yards/50g): Honey 26458,<br />
3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) balls.<br />
NEEDLES<br />
US 9 (5.5mm) 24” or longer circular needles,<br />
or size to obtain gauge<br />
NOTIONS<br />
Yarn Needle<br />
Stitch Markers<br />
Scrap Yarn or Stitch Holder<br />
Spare needle (for 3-Needle Bind Off)<br />
Size G Crochet Hook<br />
GAUGE<br />
18 sts and 24 rows = 4” in St st, unblocked.<br />
20 sts and 29 rows = 4” in St st, machine<br />
washed, dried and blocked.
Split Back Tank<br />
Notes: This tank is knit from the bottom up in a single piece. The<br />
body of the tank is worked in Stockinette stitch with a narrow<br />
border of Garter stitch along the edges. Stitches are separated<br />
at the underarms, then the back left, back right, and front are<br />
worked separately. The shoulder seams come together with a<br />
three-needle bind off. To finish, a round of single crochet closes<br />
the neckline and reinforces the shape of the armholes.<br />
Lindy Chain creates a beautiful, drapey fabric, but is prone to<br />
shrinkage. This pattern has been designed to be washed and<br />
dried in the washing machine and dryer. This means that your<br />
garment, as you work it up, will appear to be much bigger than<br />
the desired size. If you do not plan on washing and drying your<br />
garment, use a smaller needle that will give you a gauge similar to<br />
the final “Washed and Dried” gauge measurement.<br />
Stockinette stitch (St st, worked flat over any number of sts)<br />
Row 1 (RS): Knit.<br />
Row 2 (WS): Purl.<br />
Rep Rows 1-2 for pattern.<br />
Garter stitch (worked flat over any number of sts)<br />
All Rows: Knit.<br />
Directions<br />
Body<br />
CO 164 (184, 204, 224, 244, 264, 284, 304, 324) sts and prepare<br />
to work back and forth beginning with a RS row.<br />
Set Up Rows 1-4: K to end of row, CO 2 with a backwards loop<br />
CO. 172 (192, 212, 232, 252, 272, 292, 312, 332) sts.<br />
Set Up Rows 5-8: K to 1 st before end, M1, K1. 176 (196, 216, 236,<br />
256, 276, 296, 316, 336) sts.<br />
Row 1 (RS): K 1 row even.<br />
Row 2 (WS): K8, P to 8 sts before end, K to end.<br />
Row 3: K 1 row even.<br />
Row 4: K7, P to 7 sts before end, K to end.<br />
Row 5: K48 (53, 58, 63, 68, 73, 78, 83, 88) sts, PM, K80 (90, 100,<br />
110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160), PM, K to end.<br />
Row 6: K6, P to 6 sts before end, K to end.<br />
Continue in established pattern, working the first and last 6 sts<br />
in Garter stitch and the rest of the garment in St st for 10 more<br />
rows, end with a WS row.<br />
Decrease Row (RS): *K to 2 sts before M, K2tog, SM, SSK; rep<br />
from * once more. K to end. 4 sts dec.<br />
Continue in pattern, working a Decrease Row every 16th row until<br />
156 (176, 196, 216, 236, 256, 276, 296, 316) sts. (5 decrease rows.)<br />
Continue in pattern with no further shaping for 22 (22, 22, 30, 30,<br />
30, 38, 38, 38) more rows.<br />
Divide for Armholes<br />
K39 (41, 46, 50, 54, 59, 63, 68, 72) (Left Back), BO 4 (10, 10, 12, 14,<br />
14, 16, 16, 18), K70 (74, 84, 92, 100, 110, 118, 128, 136) (Front), BO<br />
4 (10, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18), K39 (41, 46, 50, 54, 59, 63, 68, 72)<br />
(Right Back).<br />
2 Split Back Tank<br />
Work Right Back<br />
Continue in pattern, working only Right Back sts. Decrease for<br />
the armhole as follows:<br />
BO 3 sts at the edge of the armhole for the next 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 1,<br />
2, 2) RS rows. 39 (41, 46, 50, 54, 56, 60, 62, 66) sts.<br />
BO 2 sts at the edge of the armhole for the next 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5,<br />
5, 6) RS rows. 35 (37, 40, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54) sts.<br />
Dec 1 st at the edge of the armhole for the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5,<br />
5, 5) RS rows. 32 (34, 36, 40, 42, 43, 45, 47, 49) sts.<br />
Continue in pattern with no shaping for 12 (16, 16, 20, 22, 22, 24,<br />
24, 26) more rows.<br />
Decrease for back neckline as follows:<br />
BO 14 (16, 18, 20, 20, 21, 20, 22, 22) sts at the back edge (for the<br />
neckline), and work to end. 18 (18, 18, 20, 22, 22, 25, 25, 27) sts.<br />
BO 2 sts at the back edge for the next 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) WS<br />
rows. 14 (14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 19, 19, 21) sts.<br />
Dec 1 st at the back edge for the next 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) WS<br />
rows. 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17) sts.<br />
Continue in St st, working even for another 4 (4, 4, 4, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2)<br />
rows.<br />
Place remaining 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17) sts onto scrap yarn or<br />
stitch holder. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.<br />
Work Left Back<br />
Work as Right Back, reversing shaping.<br />
Front<br />
Working with only the 70 (74, 84, 92, 100, 110, 118, 128, 136) front<br />
sts, begin with a WS row. P 1 row.<br />
Working in St st, BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next 0 (0, 0, 0,<br />
0, 2, 2, 4, 4) rows. 70 (74, 84, 92, 100, 104, 112, 116, 124) sts.<br />
BO 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12)<br />
rows. 62 (66, 72, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100) sts.<br />
Dec 1 st at the beginning of the next 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10)<br />
rows. 56 (60, 64, 72, 76, 78, 82, 86, 90) sts.<br />
Work even for 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12) more rows, ending with a<br />
WS row.<br />
Divide for Straps<br />
K18 (18, 18, 20, 22, 22, 25, 25, 27) (Left Front Strap), BO 20 (24,<br />
28, 32, 32, 34, 32, 36, 36) (Neck), K18 (18, 18, 20, 22, 22, 25, 25, 27)<br />
(Right Front Strap).<br />
Work Right Front Strap<br />
Working in St st, BO 2 sts at the neck edge for the next 2 (2, 2, 2,<br />
3, 3, 3, 3, 3) RS rows. 14 (14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 19, 19, 21) sts.<br />
Dec 1 st at the neck edge for the next 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) RS<br />
rows. 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17) sts.<br />
Continue in St st, working even for another 12 (16, 16, 20, 20, 18, 14,<br />
14, 14) rows. Using a three-needle bind off, BO the reserved Right<br />
Back Strap sts with the Right Front Strap sts. Cut yarn, leaving a<br />
long tail.
Work Left Front Strap<br />
Work as Right Front Strap, reversing shaping and binding off the<br />
reserved Left Back Strap with the Left Front Strap sts.<br />
Finishing<br />
Wash and dry garment to shrink and set sts. If needed, steam<br />
block garment to the correct measurements.<br />
With US G 6 crochet hook, single crochet around armholes. Break<br />
yarn.<br />
Overlap back edges 3.5”, and single crochet neckline edges<br />
together. Continue single crocheting all the way around the neck<br />
edge. Break yarn.<br />
Weave in all ends.
About the Designer<br />
Allison Griffith iis a lifelong knitter with<br />
years of experience designing patterns<br />
and teaching fiber arts. She is the creator<br />
and author of the blog On the Needles<br />
(www.ontheneedles.com) where she<br />
offers patterns, tutorials, and inspiration<br />
to hundreds of readers. When not<br />
knitting, Allison divides her time between<br />
working in her garden, watching too many Law & Order reruns,<br />
and playing with her dog.<br />
For pattern support, please contact knittingontheneedles@gmail.<br />
com<br />
Knit Abbreviations<br />
BO<br />
CN<br />
CC<br />
CDD<br />
CO<br />
cont<br />
dec<br />
DPN(s)<br />
EOR<br />
inc<br />
K<br />
K2tog<br />
KFB<br />
K-wise<br />
bind off<br />
cable needle<br />
contrast color<br />
centered<br />
double dec<br />
cast on<br />
continue<br />
decrease(es)<br />
double pointed<br />
needle(s)<br />
every other row<br />
increase<br />
knit<br />
knit two sts<br />
together<br />
knit into the front<br />
and back of stitch<br />
knitwise<br />
LH<br />
M<br />
M1<br />
M1L<br />
M1R<br />
MC<br />
P<br />
P2tog<br />
PM<br />
PFB<br />
PSSO<br />
PU<br />
left hand<br />
marker<br />
make one stitch<br />
make one leftleaning<br />
stitch<br />
make one rightleaning<br />
stitch<br />
main color<br />
purl<br />
purl 2 sts<br />
together<br />
place marker<br />
purl into the<br />
front and back<br />
of the stitch<br />
pass slipped<br />
stitch over<br />
pick up<br />
P-wise purlwise<br />
rep repeat<br />
rev St st reverse stockinette<br />
stitch<br />
RH<br />
rnd(s)<br />
RS<br />
Sk<br />
Sk2p<br />
right hand<br />
round(s)<br />
right side<br />
skip<br />
sl 1, k2tog, pass<br />
slipped stitch over<br />
k2tog: 2 sts dec<br />
SKP sl, k, psso: 1<br />
st dec<br />
Sl<br />
SM<br />
SSK<br />
SSP<br />
slip<br />
slip marker<br />
sl, sl, k these<br />
2 sts tog<br />
sl, sl, p these<br />
2 sts tog tbl<br />
SSSK<br />
St st<br />
sts<br />
TBL<br />
TFL<br />
tog<br />
W&T<br />
WE<br />
WS<br />
WYIB<br />
WYIF<br />
YO<br />
sl, sl, sl, k these<br />
3 sts tog<br />
stockinette stitch<br />
stitch(es)<br />
through back loop<br />
through front loop<br />
together<br />
wrap & turn<br />
(see specific - instructions<br />
in pattern)<br />
work even<br />
wrong side<br />
with yarn in back<br />
with yarn in front<br />
yarn over<br />
4 Split Back Tank