2016 Caucasus & Central Asia 4

The Caucasus & Central Asia 4

A journal kept by Susan Hanes
during a trip through the
Caucasuses and Central Asia
from September 4-October
16, 2016. Volume 4. Photos by
Susan Hanes and George
Leonard, c. 2016
Cover: Turabek Hanym
Mausoleum, Kunya Urgench

The Caucasus & Central Asia
October 7-October 16, 2016
A conHnuaHon of our six-week trip to the countries of the South Caucasus and Central Asia.
AKer transiHng through Istanbul, we spent three weeks in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.
Allah made the Türkmens prolific and their numbers greatly increased. God gave them
two special qualiEes: spiritual richness and courage. As a light for their road, God also
strengthened their spiritual and mental capacity with the ability to recognize the realiEes
behind events.
—Saparmurat Niyazov in The Rukhnama, 2001
Volume 4 Central Asia

Friday, October 7
to Mary, Turkmenistan
A"er checking out of the Salom Inn and leaving our suitcases in Raisa’s care, we met our driver, Rafgat, just a"er 8:00
for the 100 km drive to the Turkmenistan border. At 9:40, he dropped us at the gate of the border crossing at Farap,
as far as he could take us. A"er flipping through our passports, the guard pointed us in the direcIon of the customs
building where we filled out declaraIons and had our bags scanned and our passports stamped. A taxi ferried us
about a kilometer across a bridge and dropped us off at another gate, quite similar to the one on the Uzbekistan side.
The guard had some difficulty determining where we were from; I had the sense that he had never seen a US
passport before. He then pointed to a large building about 2 km away. We sighed and set off down the dusty road,
lugging our bags, between four lines of barbed wire fencing, paralleling a no-man’s land that had been cleared of
vegetaIon. I reached the door first, and it was opened by a handsome young man who greeted me by name. This
was Rustam Valiev of Ayan Travel in Ashgabat, who will be our guide throughout our stay in Turkmenistan. He
assisted us in filling out the necessary forms and clearing passport control. Our bags were scanned again, and we
were asked if we had illegal drugs, religious materials, jewelry, or cigareYes. Leaving our larger suitcases behind
made things immensely easier; I think it will be worth wearing our clothes for several days in a row. Rustam put us
into a taxi for the 2.5-km ride to the final gate on the Turkmenistan side, and a"er one last passport check, we were
through. Our driver, Merdan, was waiIng for us in a shiny grey Toyota Camry. A"er crossing the historic Amu Darya
River, we reached Turkmenabat, where we stopped so that Rustam could register us at the State CommiYee for
Tourism; we were served tea while we waited for him. The office is located in one of the grand new buildings that
line the broad roadway.

Then we were on our way to Merv, the UNESCO-designated Silk Road oasis on the southern edge of the Qaraqum Desert. During our journey of more
than 200 km, Rustam gave us an overview of Turkmenistan’s ancient and natural history as a preface to our visit. He told us that the Black Sands, as
the desert is called, is a living desert, providing a home for a vast number of plants, birds, and animals. He proudly told us about his country that
gained its independence in 1991 a"er the breakup of the Soviet Union. Although it is secular, more than 80% of its populaIon of 5 million is Muslim;
about 10% is Russian Orthodox. He explained the parts of the Turkmenistan flag, telling us that the field of green represents the youth of the country
and the five guls that fill the single red stripe represent the five major tribes. He showed us a map of ancient Merv, poinIng out the route we would
take around the site, from the oldest area of Erk Qala (6th century BC) to the Gyaur Qala (3rd century BC), to the Sultan Qala (9th century), to his
favorite building, the Mausoleum of Muhammad Ibn Zayd, a fine example of the incredible majesty of Seljuq brickwork.
Merv Oasis
UNESCO

Rustam’s enthusiasm and knowledge was infecIous, and his encouragement as I climbed several monuments took me out of my comfort zone. But as I stood at
the top of the citadel of the Erk Qala and looked at Jake far below, I was awed by the thought of just where I was at that moment.

As Rustam commented later during our kebab dinner at the Kafe Gyzylgum in the nearby city of Mary, Turkmenistan is the least visited and most isolated
country among the former Soviet Republics; there are very few American tourists and almost no independent US visitors. A"er dinner, the three of us crossed
a busy street where there seemed to be absolutely no inclinaIon for traffic to stop for pedestrians. He hailed a passing car—just a local ciIzen—to take us to
the Mary Hotel. Apparently there is liYle concern about riding with strangers and it is common pracIce. I am not sure what I was expecIng, but when we
pulled up at the Mary Hotel, I was surprised. Rather than a quirky liYle guesthouse, the Mary Hotel is—like everything else seems to be in this country—grand
and new. The lobby, with its throne-like gold-trimmed chairs and massive chandelier, resembles a modern palace. Our room is very large, with gold draperies
and crystal lamps; the brocade upholstery on the armchairs matches the quilted gold bedspread.

Saturday, October 8
Mary
We met Rustam for breakfast at 7:30. He had with him a plasIc bag with a jar of Japanese instant coffee and a boYle of condensed milk, which he offered to
share, telling us that he does not like the coffee at the hotel. A few minutes past 8:00, a new driver, Shaberdy, met us in frontl with a Toyota Sienna van.
Professor Viktor Turik, a curator at the Mary Museum, was with him. He would be accompanying us as our guide to the archaeological site of Gonur Tepe, about
100 km north of Mary, in a remote area of the Qaraqum Desert. The trip took about three hours; 60 kilometers were on a series of increasingly bad roads, and
the last 30 kilometers were through desert sand.

The site of Gonur Tepe covers about 135 acres, and
was inhabited by Indo-Iranian peoples from as early as
4,000 years ago. The remains of a Bronze Age culture
were first discovered there in 1973 by Soviet
archaeologist Viktor Sarianidi, who found a palace, a
forIfied mud-brick enclosure, and temples with fire
altars which he believed were dedicated to the
Zoroastrian religion. Other discoveries included
extensive irrigaIon systems similar to the ones found
in Egypt, two-wheeled carts, and silver and gold
arIfacts. On the drive out, Viktor gave us an animated
overview in Russian, which Rustam translated. Since
Sarianidi's death in 2013, Turik has carried on his
work, and it was obvious that he shares his mentor’s
enthusiasm for Gonur and its treasures. When the van
stopped and we got out, Rustam asked me if I felt like
a 19th century explorer, and I must admit that I did,
imagining myself as perhaps a Freya Stark or an Agnes
Smith, as I strode out into the brilliant Turkman sun,
so far from the rest of the world. For nearly two hours,
we followed Viktor around the site, which he brought
to life for us with his knowledge and enthusiasm.
Returning to the car, Viktor set out a picnic lunch that
his daughter had prepared, complete with cold
chicken and watermelon, and the local bread that he
bought from a roadside stand on the way out. A"er
lunch, we started the drive back to Mary, stopping to
take pictures of camels munching Saxaul trees near
the side of the road, and again so that I could pose in a
field of coYon.

We returned to Mary in Ime to visit the Mary Museum, where we saw many of the treasures from the third and second millennium BCE that had been
excavated from Gonur. It was kind of neat to see the ceramics and bronze objects immediately a"er our visit to the actual site. The museum’s ethnographic
gallery has excepIonal examples of Turkman carpets and needlework, and beauIful gilded silver and carnelian jewelry on display.

Rustam gave us a tour of Mary, showing us, in addiIon to the new white marble mosque that seats 3500 and the library that looks like a palace, a 1900 Russian
Orthodox Church perched down a side street, and unexpectedly, a MiG-19P displayed outside what had been an aviaIon school during the Soviet era. A"er a
break, Rustam met us at 6:00 in the lobby and we walked a short distance to Ak Burgut (“White Eagle”) Café, where we sat outside in an inviIng arbor and
shared kebabs, fries, and beer; the musical background of a Call to Prayer, Euro-Pop, and tradiIonal Turkman music somehow blending pleasantly around us.

Sunday, October 9
to Ashgabat
By 8:15, we’d had breakfast with Rustam and were at the front of the hotel,
ready for our drive to Ashgabat with Merdan in his spotless Camry. As we drove
along the excellent road, we chaYed about various aspects of Turkmenistan.
When we asked Rustam why there were no McDonalds, KFC, or Starbucks in
the country, he explained that President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, as a
doctor, is concerned about public health; local restaurants offer healthy fast
food so that there is no need for such companies to come to Turkmenistan. We
asked about smoking, and he assured us that it is on the decline and that in 50
years there will be no more smoking here. I asked about the tradiIonal scarves
that the local women wear: is it their hair that makes them poof out in the
back? No, he told us, the women have pads inside, rather like shoulder pads,
that give the scarves their disIncIve look. Getng to the subject of today’s
drive, Rustam said that the road from Mary to Ashgabat follows the Trans-
Caspian Rail Line, which in turn, was built along the Silk Road route. Today’s
drive is along the ancient Silk Road and will take us to within a few meters of
the Iranian border. The Kopet Dag Mountains that we could see in the distance
form a natural barrier between the two countries. Entering Ahal Province from
Mary Province, we stopped in Tejen, an oasis town in the Qaraqum Desert
famous for its melons. At a roadside market, Rustam picked out a large
Vaharman, considered the sweetest and most delicious of all melons, while I
marveled at the piles of watermelons, squash, and pumpkins. Jake picked out a
package of qaq, or dried melon, which he wanted to compare with that which
he bought in Uzbekistan. Rustam pronounced that the melon would be our
lunch.

Let the life of every Turkman be as beauHful as our melons.
—Saparmurat Niyazov
We turned off the main highway and drove on a deserted back road towards
the Iranian border to see the ruins of an 18th century fortress built by the
order of Nadir-Shah, the Iranian ruler from the Afsharid dynasty. According to
the legends of nomadic Turkmen, the sand and clay used to make the fortress
were brought in from Khiva as a reminder of the Ime that Nadir spent there
in capIvity. The fortress had a strategic funcIon as a military garrison and its
main purpose was to control rebellious Turkmen tribes. Surrounded by the
fortress walls, with the Kopet Dag Mountains before us, we picnicked on our
Vaharman melon. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten anything more delicious. Close
to the highway, the ancient seYlement of Abiverd was easier to reach. This
was one of the major centers of Northern Khurasan and was an impregnable
fortress protecIng the townspeople from the aYacks of nomads. Although
the seYlement is slowly returning to the earth, bricked walls sIll remain and
ceramic shards of many colors are scaYered everywhere. It was an odd
feeling to walk amongst these silent ruins and sIll hear the distant sound of
highway traffic. As we neared Ashgabat, we stopped for a third Ime, at
Seyitdzhemaliddin Mosque, just 12 km from the city. This medieval mosque
was built in the 15th century, but was almost completely destroyed by an
earthquake in 1948. Large chunks rest at odd angles, and the portal is broken
in half. Only traces remain of its ornamental finishing; we saw no trace of the
dragon figures that once decorated the portal. Although all but destroyed, it
remains a place of pilgrimage, and we watched as families climbed the steps
and worshipped together. In the parking lot, we said good-by to Merdan.
Since his car is registered in Mary Province, he cannot take it into the city of
Ashgabat; it was necessary for us to transfer to another car for the drive into
town.

Iran, 5 kilometers

Abiverd

Seyitdzhemaliddin Mosque

Soon, Rustam pointed out a gleaming mirage on the edge of the Qaraqum
Desert: Ashgabat, the City of White Marble. He told us that so much Carrera
marble had been used to construct the capital that the worldwide price had
increased by a third. As we drove along the wide boulevards, I found it hard
to believe my eyes. Manicured parks with no one in sight; futurisIc white
palaces decorated with gold-plated designs; minimal traffic. A"er days
exploring ancient, dusty sites along the Silk Road, driving into Turkmenistan’s
capital city was a shock. Ashgabat was designed, at the cost of billions of
dollars, to showcase the glories of the Turkman. It looks like no city I have
ever seen: an arIficial collecIon of white buildings that resemble a movie
set. Rustam saw that we were safely checked into the Oguzkent Hotel;
according to The Lonely Planet, it is the most impressive place to stay in
Central Asia. The road was closed in front of the hotel (Rustam said that they
were pracIcing for the Independence Day parade in three weeks) so we
followed him along a path worn through the grass at the side of the hotel. I
cannot imagine that more than a very few of the hotel’s 300 rooms are
occupied; it, like the rest of the city, it feels strangely empty. While Rustam
aYends the second round of family meeIngs regarding his impending
engagement, he sent us off to have dinner on our own at City Pub, telling us
to ask for Natalia when we got there. A car from the hotel dropped us at the
front door. It was a quintessenIal BriIsh pub, except that this one had a
Coca-Cola sign over the bar and ubiquitous Russian music videos on two
screens. A thin, aYracIve woman was seated at the bar, drinking beer
through a straw; the bartender and two other men were keeping her
company. Besides our place in the corner, the rest of the tables had been
pushed together to form one long one. Places were set and boYles of vodka
and brandy were placed at short intervals. Soon the guests began to arrive:
young Russian woman, most in sexy dresses and sIleYo heels. It became
apparent that the occasion was a birthday celebraIon for a woman in a Ight
red dress who effusively greeted each of her friends as they arrived. We
noIced that nearly everyone in the room was either smoking or looking at
their cell phone or both. Eventually, several men showed up and the party
got going, with much toasIng and posing for a photographer hired for the
occasion. It was fascinaIng to watch all this within the context of the cold
white world outside the door. When we were ready to leave, Natalia hailed a
passing car; two boys dropped us off at the side of the hotel again for a
quarter of what it cost to go there in a proper taxi. When I think back on
today and consider that we have explored ancient sites, entered a city
resembling a sci-fi movie set, and ended up in a BriIsh Pub watching a
Russian Girls’ Night Out, I realize I am suffering from culture shock.

Monday, October 10
Ashgabat
Walking into the hotel breakfast room, we were met by a fleet of smiling chefs
staIoned at their posts, offering everything from omelets to eggrolls. The
smaYering of other guests appeared to be young European business people.
Rustam met us promptly at 8:45 for a day touring the Ashgabat area in a
Chrysler Grand Voyager driven by Alex, an ethnic Armenian and veteran of the
Soviet-Afghan War in the 1980s. We soon discovered that Alex likes to talk; in
fact, he talked to Rustam nonstop in Russian, and we had to just interrupt if we
wanted to say anything. We stopped briefly at a small government shop to buy
water; I browsed the shelves of fruits and vegetables, teapots, and cosmeIcs.
These government-sponsored general stores are found in every village,
according to Rustam. Eighteen kilometers southwest of the city center, we
visited the ancient Parthian city of Nisa, a UNESCO-designated seYlement.
ExcavaIons there have revealed substanIal buildings, mausoleums, and
shrines, and a looted treasury that Rustam said was bad luck to approach.
HellenisIc art works have been uncovered, as well as a large number of ivory
rhytons, or horns, used to hold liquids. Rustam showed us how the complex
was connected by a series of intersecIng hallways and described the work that
archeologists are doing there.
Nisa
UNESCO

Returning to the center of town, we were delayed for more than 40 minutes,
when the traffic was halted in front of us as a full procession of military
equipment—tanks, rocket launchers, missiles, personnel carriers—passed
before us. Rustam said that this was another pracIce for the Independence
Day Parade on October 27. When I asked how o"en the military held these
pracIces, he said that they were conducted every day for three weeks, adding
that we were fortunate to have been able to see what we did, as the
government generally does not grant visas to tourists during this sensiIve
period. Once the road reopened, Alex drove us to the Carpet Museum. This
was one place we had parIcularly looked forward to visiIng, and were
disappointed that the charge to take photos was 12 manat (about $3.50) per
shot. Nonetheless, we enjoyed seeing the exquisite Turkman carpets with
their brilliant colors, intricate designs, and delicate work. We tried not to be
unnerved by the silent young woman who followed every step we took.

Rustam took us next to see the Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque, opened on October
22, 2004 by the order of Turkmenistan’s first president, Saparmurat Niyazov,
and the adjacent mausoleum that he planned for his own death. Niyazov died
two years later, and was buried in the mausoleum on December 24, 2006. The
mosque has been at the center of controversy, as scriptures from both the
Koran and Niyazov’s own Ruhnama (Book of the Soul) are built into the walls,
angering many Muslims. The building is striking both in its beauty and its size. It
seats 10,000 men on the main floor and 2,000 women in the balconies above.
Below, there is parking for 5,000 cars and 100 busses. Rustam pointed out the
numerous symbols incorporated in the structure: the minarets are 91 meters
high, represenIng the year 1991 when Turkmenistan gained its independence;
the dome is 63 meters high, the age of the Prophet Mohammed when he died;
there are 48 windows, represenIng the 1948 earthquake. He added, “A new
naIon needs symbols, because symbols give hope.”

Saparmurat Atayevich Niyazov (19 February 1940 – 21
December 2006) was a Turkmen poliIcian who served as the
leader of Turkmenistan from 1985 unIl his death in 2006. He
was First Secretary of the Turkmen Communist Party from
1985 unIl 1991 and conInued to lead Turkmenistan for 15
years a"er its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991.
Ruhnama (The Book of the Soul) is a book wriYen by
Saparmurat Niyazov, the President of Turkmenistan
from 1990 to 2006, combining moral guidance,
autobiography, and revisionist history. The text
includes stories and poems, including those by Sufi
poet Magtymguly Pyragy. It was intended to be the
“spiritual guidance of the naIon” and the basis of the
naIon's arts and literature, by creaIng a posiIve
image of the Turkmen people, giving an heroic
interpretaIon of its history, and providing the
definiIon of “moral, family, social and religious
norms for modern Turkmens”.

Alex drove slowly down the broad, empty boulevards, while Rustam pointed
out various government agencies and ministries, each in its own magnificent
white marble building. I saw that most buildings had window washers and
marble cleaners working from perches high above us. Many of the buildings
are architecturally designed to reflect their funcIon: the Foreign Ministry
has a globe on top; the Ministry of EducaIon looks like an open book;
CommunicaIons resembles a classic mobile phone; Medicine, a hypodermic
needle. The Dental Hospital looks like a molar, while the Eye Hospital has an
eye on the roof that can be seen from the air. Rustam said that the President
places great emphasis on health. Because he is a pracIcing medical doctor,
he has encouraged the expansion of medical insItutes and invited experts
from around the world to teach at Turkmenistan’s medical schools. We
visited the Monument of Neutrality, first built in 1998 on the orders of
Turkmenistan's first president, Saparmurat Niyazov, to commemorate the
country's official posiIon. It had once featured a rotaIng golden statue of his
likeness. However, current president Berdimuhamedow replaced the arch
with a new 312-foot tall monument that is now located in the suburbs. The
Niyazov statue is there, but no longer rotates. Our city tour concluded with
Independence Monument, commemoraIng Turkmenistan’s independence
on October 27, 1991. Set in a pine-filled park, the white and gold building
was inspired by tradiIonal Turkmen tents and the headdress worn by
Turkmen girls.

As we entered the northern, older part of the city, shady trees, Soviet-era buildings,
and narrow lanes brought us back to reality. Alex and Rustam joined Jake and me for a
Turkman lunch at Merdem Qala, where we had dumplings and lamb soup out under a
shady tree. We could have eaten in a yurt, but decided to stay outside. A"er a run to
the post office, Rustam escorted us back to the hotel; the road was closed again but
nothing was said as we followed the same path we had yesterday to the entrance. This
evening is an early one, as the alarm is set for 2:30 am for our early flight to Dashoguz.

Tuesday, October 11
to Khiva, Uzbekistan
The alarm went off and we were packed and ready for Rustam in the
lobby when he arrived at 4:00 am. It was a good thing too: the hotel was
hosIng President Shaymiev of the Republic of Tatarstan (a consItuent
republic of the Russian FederaIon) and the road in front of the hotel was
about to be closed again. We just managed to skirt past the security
detail and jump in Alex’s waiIng car. We flew though silent, empty
streets to the airport, stopping first to see the new internaIonal
terminal, opened less than a month ago. It is designed to resemble a
falcon in flight, the symbol of Turkmenistan Airlines. As we passed the old
internaIonal terminal, Jake asked Rustam how old it actually was. Three
years, was his answer. Our flight to Dashoguz was scheduled to depart at
6:00 am; the check-in process was very quick, which apparently is not
always the case. T5 101 departed early, since everyone boarded quickly
and most had few carry-on items. As the new Boeing 737 took off and
rose gradually, we saw Ashgabat’s perfectly gridded rectangle shining in
the blackness below. For the duraIon of the 50-minute flight, we
watched the sunrise over the desert, landing just at daybreak. I heard the
clicking of unfastening seatbelts as soon as the wheels touched down;
one fellow started down the aisle before the plane had even come to a
complete stop.

WaiIng for us was our driver, Ulugbeg, in his Toyota Prado
Land Cruiser; he would be taking us to Kunya Urgench, the
UNESCO-listed ruins of the ancient capital of Khorzem (an
oasis region on the Amu Darya River delta). The city rose
to prominence between the 10th to the 14th centuries. At
that Ime, Kunya Urgench was an important trading
center, compeIng in fame and populaIon with many
other Central Asian ciIes, such as Bukhara. The ruins of
monuments, mosques, and minarets are scaYered on a
baked and level plain, sIll revealing areas of skilled Ile and
brickwork. Although restoraIon conInues, the overall
effect has not been spoiled, and it remains a popular
pilgrimage desInaIon. Rustam taught me to say to those
we passed, “Kabul Bol Som,” meaning, “Let your charity be
accepted by Allah” and introduced me to the imam of one
of the mosques. Returning to the car, we went to a small
café in the nearby village for tea and hot meat pies, which
we ate while we struggled to find comfortable posiIons
among the cushions around a tradiIonal low table. Then it
was Ime for us to start the border crossing process at
Dashoguz. Rustam took us as far as he could on the
Turkmenistan side, and we said our good-byes. I found
that I had become quite aYached to him in our five days
together. At that point, we were once again on our own.
The crossing process was fairly painless this Ime, although
I lost count of the number of Imes we were asked to
show our passports. By 12:45, we passed through the last
gate to Uzbekistan where a car was waiIng for us. Sultan
introduced himself and drove us to Khiva, honking at other
cars and swerving to avoid potholes with the window
down the whole Ime. Hair blown and lungs full of
exhaust, I swore that I would not be so passive next Ime,
and ask the driver to turn on the AC. Forty miles from
Khiva, we drove through Urgench, the capital of Khorzem
Province, a Soviet-era grid of broad streets and empty
squares.

Kunya Urgench
UNESCO

We arrived in Khiva at 4:00 and Sultan carried our bags into the Ichon-Qala, or Walled City, where we are staying at the Orient Star, a 19th century madrassa.
The hotel is located next to the Kalta Minor, the squat, unfinished minaret that is the iconic symbol of Khiva. The rooms were former student cells. Although
there are some killer stairs to reach it (as a UNESCO site, such changes cannot be made) and the rooms have no windows, the place is full of atmosphere and it
is fascinaIng to think that we are sleeping in a piece of history.

Wednesday, October 12
Khiva
A"er a breakfast served in a second building in the madrassa complex, we were ready to explore the third of
Uzbekistan’s famous Silk Road ciIes, Khiva. Along with Samarqand and Bukhara, Khiva is an important historical site
on that famous road. Although it is now a sleepy oasis sandwiched between two deserts, it had a long and brutal
history as a renegade city of slave traders and thieves. Almost all of the ancient buildings lie within the Ichon-Qala,
and there seems to be something photogenic or interesIng around every corner. We began at the West Gate,
where we bought Ickets inclusive of all the sites.

We walked east along the Phlavon Mahmud, detouring down side alleys if they looked interesIng. Trying to avoid tour groups, we visited the Kukhna Ark, a
fortress-residence daIng from the 12th century, and then the madrassa across from it, switching places with groups.

Outside the madrassa, I noIced an old woman dressed in white. A"er our
encounter in Bukhara, I suspected that she had recently been in Mecca. I
moIoned towards her and tried to ask. Once she understood my quesIon,
she kissed me on the cheek; I was right.

Nearby, the 18th century Phlavon Mahmud Mausoleum is one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Uzbekistan. Mahmud was famous for his bravery, physical
strength, and goodness; he was also a doctor, poet, and saint. We saw a number of families with elaborately dressed children walking to the shrine. I entered
the mausoleum and was struck by the richly glazed blue and white Iles that covered the interior. Many people were praying before the door of the crypt and an
imam chanted in the larger prayer room. Outside, proud parents were happy to let me to photograph their children.

The Islam Khoja Madrassa is now the Museum of Applied Arts. We walked the long corridors and saw examples of woodworking, metal cra"ing, rugs, and texIles.

We conInued east through this historic city, the most homogenous collecIon of architecture in the Islamic world.

At the east gate, we entered the bazaar. Beyond the plasIc tubs, toilet paper, and
giant-sized cleaning supplies, we wandered through the food market. Huge bags of rice
of numerous varieIes, sweets swarming with bees, red pomegranates and yellow
carrots—it was a riot of color and acIvity. Most vendors were happy to let me take
pictures; those who declined sIll exchanged a good-natured wave.

Walking back towards our hotel, we discovered the Khiva Silk Carpet
Workshop and Suzani Centre. Since I had read Christopher Aslan Alexander’s
Carpet Ride to Khiva, I was hoping to find the workshop that he described so
affecIonately in this 2010 memoir of his years in Uzbekistan. I was delighted
to meet Mehribon, the wife of the man who had worked with “Aslan”, and
had taken over the project a"er the author’s departure. Mehribon spoke
liYle English, but conveyed that her husband, Madrim, would be there at
5:00. Jake and I returned to the shop later and were pleased to meet
Madrim. He showed us suzani and carpets, all meIculously designed a"er
Khiva’s ancient doors, Iles, and miniature painIngs. We bought two Ileinspired
suzanis and conversed with Madrim in a combinaIon of English, sign
language, and “heartspeak” about ordering a hand-embroidered jacket.

As the sun was setng, Jake and I stopped for dinner at Terrassa Café, where we sat outside
overlooking Mohammed Rakhim Khan Square. A cool breeze, a clear sky, and a liYle vodka
made for a memorable evening together, enjoying beauIful Khiva.

Thursday, October 13
Khiva
A chilly wind was blowing this morning as we walked to breakfast under an
overcast sky. A"er all of the sunshine we’ve had, we realized that we have
taken the fine weather for granted. At 10:00, we returned to the Khiva Silk
Carpet Workshop to discuss the jacket. Both Madrim and Mehribon were on
hand to help me try on samples and discuss exactly what I wanted. There
was a long coat with beauIful hooked-embroidery in a design and color
paleYe that I loved, and it fit nicely too. But having no real use for a coat, I
explored with them the possibility of cutng it off, even going with Mehribon
to a seamstress. But in the end, we all agreed that it would be wrong to cut
into such beauIful handwork; we would order a jacket instead. Madrim
indicated that I would have it by Christmas. The details were worked out,
measurements taken, and the payment made. Now I will look forward to
receiving a suzani jacket embroidered especially for me. By early a"ernoon,
the sun had worked its way through the clouds but it was sIll cold, so we
holed up in our cell with the heat on to warm up and do some preparaIons
for our departure tomorrow morning.

As sunset neared, we walked down
the emptying street, inhaling the
shadowy atmosphere of Khiva. We
returned to Bir Gumbaz, where we’d
eaten our first night in Khiva. Sitng
inside this Ime, we shared plov,
gumma, and gok barak (light
dumplings filled with chopped greens)
and a couple of rounds of vodka.

Friday, October 14
to Ayaz Qala, Qaraqalpaqstan
A"er our final breakfast at the madrassa in Khiva, we met our driver, Kamu,
for the drive to the yurt camp at Ayaz Qala in Qaraqalpaqstan. There was
some confusion, as he was not aware that we had wanted to visit several
ancient fortresses before we stopped for the night. Qaraqalpaqstan is a
unique area: since 1936, it has been an ill-defined autonomous republic inside
Uzbekistan. The Qaraqalpaq are a Turkic people whose language and customs
are closer to Kazakh than Uzbek and who more closely resemble Mongols
than Persians. Our drive today took us through the barren desert wilderness
that surrounds small oases where people have established farms. The simple
houses that we passed looked almost adobe, and are surrounded by fields of
coYon, corn, and cabbages. Off in the distance, beyond these small homes,
are the ruins of ancient fortresses or qalas that at one Ime dominated the
area, but now have slipped into anIquity against the backdrop of the Sultan
Uvays Dag mountains. Kamu drove us to several of these ancient ruins. The
first, Guldursun Qala, dates mainly from the 12th century; the ruins we saw
today are all that remain a"er it was overwhelmed by the Mongols in 1221.
The climb up to the fortress was daunIng, but I worked my way through the
brambles around to the other side and managed to reach an interesIng part
of the wall that was actually a system of double towers. We also climbed up
to the Kyr Kyz Qala, a dramaIc ruin that, like the others, is dissolving into the
desert; its towers somewhat resembled the chimney formaIons in
Cappadocia in Turkey.

As we approached the three Ayaz Qalas, we stopped several Imes to take
pictures of them. This evening, we will be spending our last night in
Uzbekistan at the Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp. The camp is run by a Qaraqalpaq
woman named Rana, who welcomed us warmly and seemed on the verge
of tears that we declined her offer of lunch. We sat in the main yurt and
had tea while we waited for ours to be prepared. Rana carried in our bags
and showed us where we will sleep, poinIng out the single solar light bulb
above. I was pleased to find that the shared toilets are western, but there is
no hot water, so no showering or shaving tonight or tomorrow morning. As
I was entering our yurt, I banged my head on the low, hard doorframe. I
confess: that, coupled with the realizaIon that we will have no opportunity
to clean up before we start our long journey home tomorrow night, had a
negaIve effect on my usual good humor. But when smiling Rana brought us
a tray of watermelon slices and a boYle of local Qaraqalpaq vodka, my
posiIve outlook returned. How o"en does one get to explain a bad hair day
by sleeping in a yurt? As the a"ernoon progressed, we soon realized that
we were the only guests. I watched as several men went through the
complicated process of disassembling the yurts around us in preparaIon
for the long winter ahead. A"er 6:00, our agreed Ime for dinner, I went
looking for Rana. She was in the Iny kitchen, which must resemble those of
a millennium ago: a flat metal surface with metal pots and keYles. She
opened the door to the oven: the roaring wood fire was cooking our
dinner. She served us alone, bringing aubergine salad, hot rice broth, and
cooked beef and potatoes. As we sat alone under the roof with its
complicated construcIon of wooden poles and straps, I marveled again at
just where we were.

Only with George Leonard would I find myself, at this stage of my life, in a yurt in the middle of the desert in
Qaraqalpaqstan, Uzbekistan, alone, except for the naEve woman who is looking aQer us. There is a full moon
this evening, our last in this country, and as I write with freezing fingerEps, I marvel at what we have seen and
done together, and how my husband has made me conscious of what I am capable of doing. People don’t
travel like this anymore; not people of our age, anyway. So what if I arrive back in Chicago looking like the last
Eme I slept was 30 hours ago in a yurt in Qaraqalpaqstan? I conEnue to really experience life, and I realize
how thankful I am for the man who has enabled me to do it.

Saturday, October 15
En Route to Istanbul, Turkey
We spent a frigid night, shivering in the yurt as we slept in our clothes under
the heavy quilts that Rana provided. Going to the bathroom during the night
was a torturous affair as I walked to the toilet in an icy wind, but a full moon
illuminated the way. We were surprised that it was 8:00 when we woke up
a"er a fizul night. All I could manage was brushing my teeth in the freezing
water. When I told Rana that we were ready for breakfast, she felt my cold
cheeks and sent us to a smaller yurt heated by a wood-burning stove. We sat
on cushions as she brought us a plate of fried eggs, a round of bread, and
instant coffee with camel’s milk. I had green tea.

Sultan, our driver from a few days ago, arrived at 9:30 in his Chevy Cobalt
to take us to two more fortresses and then on to Nukus. As we drove
along, we again noIced the obvious salt deposits in the surrounding fields.
This was caused when the Soviets diverted the Amu Darya River to canals
for the purpose of irrigaIng their coYon fields. The water soaked into the
soil and dissolved underground salt deposits that eventually worked their
way to the surface, causing significant environmental damage. It was
twenty kilometers to Topraq Qala, where we climbed up to the site, which
had once probably been a royal summer palace. I kept climbing higher and
found a hidden door. Carefully peeking inside, I saw an arch leading to
another room that had an interesIng niche. How I love these solitary
moments of discovery. Three kilometers further we stopped at Qizil Qala;
unfortunately, it appears to be undergoing a massive over-restoraIon,
with a new wall totally obscuring it. The two qalas date from the 1st and
2nd centuries and were probably related in some way: perhaps Qizil was a
military garrison to protect the nearby royal residence.

We drove on to Nukus, capital of Qaraqalpaqstan, through a barren desert
landscape that stretched to the horizon, arriving in the city at about 12:30.
Along gridded avenues, we passed block a"er block of Soviet era housing. The
highlight of Nukus is the Qaraqalpaqstan NaIonal Museum of Art, popularly
known as the Savitsky Museum. It was established by Igor Savitsky in the
1960s. An arIst himself, Savitsky emigrated to Nukus and began collecIng
indigenous Uzbek arIfacts at a Ime when the Soviets were implemenIng a
system of cultural ambiguity. He eventually started to acquire painIngs and
other works from arIsts suppressed by the regime. The museum is home to
one of the finest collecIons of Soviet avant-garde art from the 1920s and
1930s (before the Stalinist era made realism the only acceptable form of
Soviet art). Because of Nukus’s obscure locaIon, Savitsky was able to
assemble his collecIon when the great museums of Moscow and St.
Petersburg could not. His passionate protégée, Marinika Babnazarova, is no
longer the museum’s director; Karlibaev Makhset, a Qaraqalpaq archeologist,
took over in February. An expansion of the museum is projected for 2017 but
its compleIon may be delayed for a good deal longer, according to Svetlana, a
museum associate. We spent several hours enjoying Savitsky’s own painIngs
of Khiva and his beloved Qaraqalpaqstan, painIngs by Uzbek arIsts, and of
course, the collecIon of Russian avant-garde art. The ethnographic art
collecIon includes a beauIfully ouziYed yurt and exquisite costumes, jewelry,
and texIles from the Qaraqalpaq people. A"er bowls of steaming dumpling
soup at the museum café, we took a taxi to the Nukus Airport, arriving at 4:00
for our 8:45 pm flight to Tashkent, as we start our long journey home.
The Savitsky Museum, Nukus

Sunday, October 16
to Chicago, IL
Our four hours at Nukus Airport seemed interminable, as there was
absolutely nothing to do. The long hall, furnished with a few rows of black
plasIc chairs, offered nothing but a TV that was playing an old Eddie
Murphy movie dubbed in Russian that looked awful. A café/bar at the end
of the room was firmly locked. A"er our night at the yurt, all my electronic
devices had run down and a fellow snagged the single wall outlet just as I
saw it. There was nothing to read besides Russian posters warning of the
slave trade and Iny pictures of wanted or missing persons with Russian
capIons. Our Uzbekistan Airways flight 1008 arrived early in Tashkent and
we met Ramil outside the domesIc terminal at 11:00 pm. He had the bags
that we’d le" behind for the Turkmenistan leg of our trip, and dropped us
off at the internaIonal terminal. It was like seeing an old friend to find him
waiIng for us, early as usual. The check-in and boarding process was
extremely thorough but efficient, and we found ourselves with a long wait
again at the departure gate for our 2:45 am flight on Turkish Airlines 371 to
Istanbul. A"er dinner on board, I don’t remember much else unIl the lights
came on and we were landing. Another long wait—eight hours this Ime—
for our final leg on Turkish Airlines 5 to Chicago. We are getng to know the
airport, and found a quiet gate where we logged on to free Wi-Fi for two
hours, charged my phone and computer, and even got a liYle sleep before
our flight finally took off for O’Hare. Ten hours later, we landed in Chicago.
Our Global Entry enrollment enabled us to fly through customs and we
were back home and headed for bed by 7:00 pm.

Faces of
Central Asia

SEPTEMBER
Itinerary
Time (GMT +2:00) in Turkey
1 Turkish Lira (TRY) = (USD) $0.34; USD $100= TRY 294
5,000 Uzbekistani Som (UZS) = (USD) $1.67 (official); 2989 UZS = 1 USD (official)
about 5,000 Uzbekistani Som (UZS) = (USD) $0.79 (street); 6363 UZS = 1 USD (street)
Sunday 25 Transfer from Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel to Airport
Depart: Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi InternaIonal Airport, TBS, on Turkish Airlines Flight 387 (Airbus 321-100/200) at 06:35 on Ime; Seats 6D, 6E
Arrive: Istanbul Ataturk Airport, IST, Terminal 1 at 07:45, on Ime
Breakfast: Istanbul Ataturk Airport: BTA Cafe
Depart: Istanbul Ataturk Airport, IST, Terminal 1 on Turkish Airlines Flight 370 (Airbus A330-200) at 18:10, on Ime; Seats 7J, 7K
LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace: Room 342, standard queen
56, Buyuk Turon Street, Tashkent
TASHKENT, UZBEKISTAN
sunny, clear: 50 to 80 degrees
Time (GMT +5:00) in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan
Monday 26 Arrive Tashkent InternaIonal Airport, TAS, Terminal 2 at 00:30 on Ime
Meet Salom Travel representaIve: Romil Ibragimov
Depart airport 02:00; transfer to hotel by Romil
Sites: New Town: Alisher Navoi Opera & Ballet Theater; Amir Timur Square, Timur Statue, Grand Duke N K Romanov Palace, Independence Square
Dinner: Tashkent Restaurant, LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace
LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace
TASHKENT
clear, sunny: 90 degrees
Tuesday 27 Breakfast: LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace
Route: tour of Tashkent with Romil, as driver and guide, in his non-air condiIoned white Daewoo sedan
Sites: Old Town; Khast Imam Square, Muyie Mubarak Library, Abu Bakr Mohammed Kaffal Shashi Mausoleum, Tellya Sheikh Mosque, Sheikhantaur
Mausoleum Complex: Yunus Khan, Sheikhantour and Kaldirgach Bey; Jummi Mosque, Kukeldash Madrasa,
Chorsu Bazaar, Milliy Taomlar, TV Tower, Tashkent Metro (Pakhtakor, Alisher Navoi, O’bekistan, Kosmonavtlar stops)
Lunch: Central Asian Plov Center
LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace
TASHKENT clear, sunny: 90 degrees 19 km

Wednesday 28 Breakfast: LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace
Sites: Uzbekistan State Museum of History, Art Gallery of Uzbekistan
AcIviIes: Alisher Navoi Opera and Ballet Theater: Giselle performance: 18:00 to 20:15
Dinner: Kafe Floya
LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace
TASHKENT
hazy, clear: 75 degrees
Thursday 29 Breakfast: LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace
Transfer to railway staIon by Romil
Depart: Tashkent Vokzal (Railway StaIon) on Afrosiyob No 762, Car 2, Seats 17 and 18
at 08:00, on Ime
Arrive Samarqand Railway StaIon at 10:10, on Ime
Sites: Samarqand (UNESCO): Old Town: Registan complex: Ulugh Beg Madrasa, Sher Dor Madrasa, Tilla-Kari Madrasa; Bibi-Khanym Mosque,
Bibi-Khanym Mausoleum, Siab Bazaar, Tashkent Street: tourist promenade between Registan and Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Dinner: Old City Restaurant
Jahongir B&B: Room 14, standard twin
4, Chirokchi Street, Samarqand
SAMARQAND clear, sunny: 85 degrees rail distance 344 km
Friday 30 Breakfast: Jahongir B&B
Route: tour of Samarqand with Eldor, as driver, in his Chevrolet Lacet sedan
Sites: Ulugh Beg’s Observatory , Observatory Museum; ruins of Afrosiab, Afrosiab Museum; Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis and adjacent cemetery;
Hazrat-Hizr Mosque and adjacent tomb of Islam Karimov (in state); Gur-E-Emir Mausoleum
Shopping: bakeries near Ulugh Beg’s Observatory
Dinner (15:00): Samarqand Restoran
Jahongir B&B
SAMARQAND overcast: 65 degrees 26 km

OCTOBER
Saturday 1 NaIonal Holiday: Teacher’s Day
Breakfast: Jahongir B&B
Route: roundtrip drive over Tahtakaracha Pass to Shakhrizabz with Kamil, as driver, and with Eldor, as guide, in Hyundai Starex CVX van
Sites: Historic Center of Shakhrizabz (UNESCO): Timur’s Ak Saray Palace; tourist promenade between Ak Saray Palace and KhazraI-Imam
Complex; Amir Timur Museum; Dorut Tilovat, Mausoleum of Sheik Shamseddin Kulyal, Gumbazi Seyidan, Kok Gumbaz Mosque, KhazraI-Imam
Complex: Tomb of Jehangir, Crypt of Timur; KhazreI Mosque
Lunch (14:00): near Tahtakaracha Pass: Ming Chinor Resort
Jahongir B&B
SAMARQAND overcast: 65 degrees 191 km
Sunday 2 Breakfast: Jahongir B&B
Route: roundtrip drive to Urgut and Koni Gil with Kemal, as driver, and with Eldor, as guide, in Hyundai Starex CVX van
Sites: Urgut: Sunday market; Koni Gil: Meros Paper Mill; Samarqand: Tashkent Street
Shopping: Urgut: Sunday market; Koni Gil: Meros Paper Mill; Samarqand: Nargis Bekmuhamedova TexIles
Dinner (15:00): Platan Restoran
Jahongir B&B
SAMARQAND clear, sunny: 40 to 65 degrees 109 km
Monday 3 Breakfast: Jahongir B&B
Route: Royal Road: drive to Navoi, Karmana, Gizhduvan, Vabkent and Bukhara with Zokir, as driver, in Chevrolet Orlando LT van
Sites: coYon fields; Karmana: Mir Said Bakhrom Mausoleum, Kasim Sheikh Kanaga; Rabat-i- Malik: royal caravanserai; Gijduvan: Ulugh Beg
Madrasa, Tomb of Khoja Abdul Khalik Gijduvani, poYery workshops; Vabkent: minaret; Bukhara: Lyab-i-Hauz
Shopping: Gijduvan (poYery workshops of Narzullaev Brothers),
Lunch (14:30): Gijduvan: Narzullaev Brothers Workshops restaurant
Salom Inn: Room 9, double
3, Sarrafon Street, Bukhara
BUKHARA sunny, overcast, windy; very dusty: 40 to 70 degrees 281 km

Tuesday 4 Breakfast: Salom Inn
Sites: Historic Center of Bukhara (UNESCO): Lyab-i-Hauz ensemble: Lyab-i-Hauz pond and plaza, Nadir Divanbegi Madrasa and Khanaka,
Kukeldash Madrasa; Ark area: Registan, Ark Fortress, Ark Museums; Poi Kalon (Pedestal of the Great) ensemble: Kalon Gate, Kalon
Minaret, Kalon Juma Mosque, Mir-i-Arab Madrasa; Ulugh Beg Madrasa, Abdul Aziz Madrasa; Covered Bazaars: Tok-i-Tilpak Furushon
(capmaker’s) Bazaar, Tok-i- Sarrafon (money changer’s) Bazaar, Tok-i-Zargaron (Jeweler’s) Bazaar; Maghok-i-AYari Mosque/Carpet Museum
Dinner (15:00): Minzifa Restaurant
Salom Inn
BUKHARA clear, sunny: 40 to 70 degrees
Wednesday 5 Breakfast: Salom Inn
Route: Tour of Bukhara area sites in taxis with Diana, as guide.
Sites: Emir’s Summer Palace; Registan area: Bolo Hauz Mosque, Russian water tower; Chashma Ayub Mausoleum, Ismael Samani Mausoleum;
Chor Minar; Modar-i- Khan and Abdullah Khan Madrasas; Balyand Mosque
Shopping: Tok-i-Zargaron (Jeweler’s) Bazaar; Toshev Davlat
Tea: Chaikhana Lyab-i-Hauz
Dinner: Restaurant Saroy
Salom Inn
BUKHARA
sunny, slightly overcast: 50 to 75 degrees
Thursday 6 Breakfast: Salom Inn
Sites: Zindan and Museum of Law and LegislaIon;
Shopping: Toshev Davlat
Dinner (17:30): Restaurant Old Bukhara
Salom Inn
BUKHARA
1 Turkmenistan Manat (TMT) = (USD) $0.29; USD $100= TMT 345

Friday 7 Breakfast: Salom Inn
Route: drive to border check-point “Farap” with Rafgat, as driver, in Chevrolet van; cross Amu Darya (Oxus) River, drive M37 to Turkmenabat,
Ancient Merv and Mary with Merdan, as driver, and Rustam Valiev, as guide, in Toyota Camry
Sites: Ancient Merv (UNESCO): Erk Qala, Gyaur Qala, Sultan Kala: Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum, Shahryar Ark, Mausoleum of Muhammad ibn Zayd,
Great and LiYle Kyz Qalas, Abdullah Khan Qala
Dinner: Mary: Kafe Gyzygum with Rustam
Mary Hotel: Room 112, standard king
Mollanepes Kocesi Street, Mary
MARY, TURKMENISTAN clear, sunny: 55 to 75 degrees 440 km (99 in Uzbekistan)
Saturday 8 Breakfast: Mary Hotel
Route: round-trip drive to Gonur-Tepe with Shaberdy, as driver, and with Viktor Turik and Rustam Valiev, as guides, in Toyota Sienna LE van
Sites: Qaraqum Desert with camels; Gonur-Teper: Royal Palace, necropolis; Mary: Mary Regional Museum, Hajji Gurbanguly Mosque, Pokrovskaya
Orthodox Church
Dinner: Ak Burgut (White Eagle) Restoran with Rustam
Mary Hotel
MARY clear, sunny: 50 to 75 degrees 218 km
Sunday 9 Breakfast: Mary Hotel
Route: drive M37 to Tejen, Kaakhka, Yashlyk, Anau, and to outskirts of Ashgabat with Merdan, as driver, in Toyota Camry and into Ashgabat with
Vladimir, as driver, in Mercedes C Class sedan and with Rustam Valiev, as guide,
Sites: Abiverd: Nadir Shah Fortress, ruins of ancient Abiverd; Anau: Seyitdzhemaliddin Mosque
Lunch: Abiverd: melon at Nadir Shah Fortress
Dinner: Ashgabat: City Pub
Ashgabat Oguzkent Hotel: Room 819, standard king
231, Bitarap Turkmenistan Avenue, Ashgabat
ASHGABAT clear, sunny: 55 to 80 degrees 444 km
Monday 10 Breakfast: Ashgabat Oguzkent Hotel
Route drive to Bagir and within Ashgabat with Alex, as driver, and with Rustam Valiev, as guide, in Chrysler Grand Voyager LE van
Sites: Bagir: Old Nisa: Parthian fortresses (UNESCO): fortress walls, palace, temple, treasury; motorized military parade pracIce for Independence
Day; Turkmenbashi RuhMosque; Wedding Palace, Vyidyz Hotel; Central Ashgabat: Oguzkhan PresidenIal Palace, Turkmen Carpet Museum,
Ministry of Fairness and other white marble government buildings, Independence Park and Monument to Independence, Arch of Neutrality
Dinner: (15:00): Merdem Gala with Rustam and Alex
Ashgabat Oguzkent Hotel
ASHGABAT clear, sunny, dusty: 80 degrees 99 km

Tuesday 11 Breakfast: Ashgabat Oguzkent Hotel
Transfer at 04:00 to Ashgabat InternaIonal Airport with Alex, as driver, in Chrysler Grand Voyager LE van
Depart: Ashgabat InternaIonal Airport, ASB, domesIc terminal, on Turkmenistan Airlines Flight 101 (Boeing 737-300) at 06:00, Seats 14D
and 14E, with Rustam Valiev in Seat 14C
Arrive Dashoguz Airport, TAZ, at 06:50, on Ime; flight distance: 438 km
Route: drive from Dashoguz to Kunya-Urgench and to Turkmenistan border check-point “Dashoguz/Khodjeily” with Ulugh Beg, as driver, and
with Rustam Valiev, as guide, in Toyota Prado Land Cruiser. Drive from Uzbekistan border, crossing Amu Darya (Oxus) River, and through
Urgench to Khiva with Sultan, as driver, in Chevrolet Cobalt sedan
Sites: Kunya-Urgench (UNESCO): mausoleums of Turebek Khanym, Seyit Akhmat, and Sultan Tekesh, Kyrk Molla, Qutlug Timur Minaret,
Ma’mun minaret, Gate of the Caravanserai; Khiva; West Gate, Kalta Minor Minaret
Tea: Kunya-Urgench: Mira’s Kafe
Dinner: Khiva: Bir Gumbaz
Hotel Orient Star: Room 122, standard twin
1, Pakhlavan Makhmud Street, Khiva
KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN sunny, partly cloudy: 80 degrees 298 km (127 in Turkmenistan)
Total kilometers driven in Turkmenistan
1,229 km
Wednesday 12 Breakfast: Hotel Orient Star
Sites: Itchan Qala (UNESCO): West and East Gates and Walls, Kalta Minor Minaret, Juma Mosque, Kukhna Ark and Museum, Summer
Mosque, Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasa, Kozi-Kalon Madrasa, Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum, Shir Gazi Khan Madrasa, Islam Khoja
Mausoleum and Minaret, Museum of Applied Arts, Allah Kuli Khan Caravanserai and Bazaar, Mohammed Amin Inok Madrasa, Tash Hauli
Palace
Shopping: Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop and Suzani Centre
Lunch: Khorezm Art Restaurant
Dinner: Terassi Kafé
Hotel Orient Star
KHIVA
clear, sunny: 70 degrees
Thursday 13 Breakfast: Hotel Orient Star
Sites: Pahlavon Mahmud Street, Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop and Suzani Centre
Dinner: Bir Gumbaz
Hotel Orient Star
KHIVA
clear, overcast, cold: 55 degrees

Friday 14 Breakfast: Hotel Orient Star
Route: drive to Khorezem fortresses and ruins with Kamu, as driver, in Chevrolet Cobalt sedan
Sites: Khorezem: Guldursun Qala, Kyr Kyz Qala, Ayaz Qalas 1, 2 and 3
Dinner: Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp
Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp
Near ruins of Ayaz Qala fortress
AYAZ QALA, QARAQALPAQSTAN clear, sunny; cold: 35 to 55 degrees 158 km
Saturday 15 Breakfast: Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp
Route: drive from Khorezem fortresses and ruins to Nukus with Sultan, as driver, in Chevrolet Cobalt sedan
Sites: Khorezem: Toprak Qala, Qizil Qala; Nukus: Karakalpak (Savitsky) Museum of Art
Lunch: Karakalpak Museum of Art Cafe
Depart: Depart: Nukus Airport, NCU, on Uzbekistan Airlines Flight 1008 (Airbus 320) at 21:25, on Ime; flight distance: 811 km
Arrive Tashkent InternaIonal Airport, TAS, Terminal 3 at 22:45, 15 minutes early
Meet Romil Ibragimov for suitcases and transfer to Terminal 2
EN ROUTE TO ISTANBUL, TURKEY overcast, cold: 35 to 55 degrees 163 km
Total kilometers driven in Uzbekistan: 1,217 km
Time (GMT +2:00) in Turkey
1 Turkish Lira (TRY) = (USD) $0.34;
Sunday 16 Depart: Tashkent InternaIonal Airport, TAS, Terminal 2 on Turkish Airlines Flight 371 (Airbus A330-200) at 02:55, 10 minutes late; Seats 6J, 6K
Arrive Istanbul Ataturk Airport, IST, Terminal 1 at 06:00, 20 minutes late
Breakfast: Istanbul Ataturk Airport: BTA Cafe
Depart: Istanbul Ataturk Airport, IST, Terminal 1 on Turkish Airlines Flight 5 (Boeing 777-300ER) at 14:20; Seats 16H, 16J
Arrive Chicago O’Hare InternaIonal Airport, ORD, Terminal 5 at 17:10, 50 minutes early
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS
Total kilometer rail distance between Tashkent and Samarqand: 344 km (215 miles)
Distance of domesIc flights in Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan: 1,249 km (781 miles)
Total kilometers drove and driven in Caucasus: 3,291 km (2,057 miles)
Total kilometers driven in Central Asia: 2,446 km (1,529 miles)
Total kilometers driving on trip: 5,737 km (3,586 miles)

Nukus
Kunya-Urgench
Dashoguz
Gonur Tepe
Urgut
Shakhrizabz
Merv

A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a
trip through the Caucasuses and
Central Asia from September 4-October
16, 2016. Volume 4. Photos by Susan
Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2016