Tokyo Weekender July 2016

Japan’s number one English language magazine 

ALSO: Why You Shouldn’t Buy a Pet in Japan, Q&A with “Hibana” Author Naoki Matayoshi, and Judoka Warrior Ami Kondo

2 | JULY 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

Prepare yourself for the heights 

of indulgence at luxury ryokan 

Hakone Ginyu 

Nestled on the mountainous slopes near 

Miyanoshita Station, Hakone Ginyu is known as one 

of Japan’s top ryokans. It may take you less than 

two hours to reach this unique getaway from Tokyo, 

but between its unparalleled views, the attentive 

service, and the comfort of the tastefully designed 

rooms, the life you left behind in the city might seem 

thousands of miles away. 

www.hakoneginyu.co.jp 

Miyanoshita, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa Prefecture 250-0404 

Tel: 0460-82-3355 100-1 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2016 | 3


34 

16 28 42 

radar 

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS 

9 AREA GUIDE: TOMIGAYA 

It’s the perfect blend of traditional shops, 

hip businesses, and casual hangout spots 

12 STYLE 

Brace yourselves for the sultry season with 

our latest shopping wish list 

14 BEAUTY 

Organic goes chic with our roundup of top 

Japanese products and salons 

16 TRENDS 

Health-conscious chocaholics are in for 

a treat with this bean-to-bar selection 

18 WHAT’S NEW AT MAX BRENNER 

For starters, there’s a brand-new brunch 

menu, and some icy delights for summer 

in-depth 

COFFEE-BREAK READS 

21 TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL 

We begin our journey with one reader’s 

travels through Aomori, Fukushima, 

and Iwate, before discovering the many 

charms of Akita 

32 WHY YOU SHOULDN’T BUY A PET 

IN JAPAN 

We investigate the shocking statistics of the 

country’s animal welfare 

34 THE OUTSIDERS 

From skateboarding to stand-up paddleboarding, 

here’s where to get moving 

36 FINDING DEPTH IN COMEDY 

We chat to Naoki Matayoshi about the 

success of his novel, “Hibana,” and the 

new Netflix series based on the book 

38 JUDOKA WARRIOR 

Meet the woman who could be Japan’s next 

greatest female judo practitioner 

guide 

CULTURE ROUNDUP 

41 THE ART WORLD 

This month’s must-see exhibitions 

43 TV 

What’s streaming on Netflix Japan: “Hibana,” 

“Shinya Shokudo,” and “Terrace House” 

44 AGENDA 

Get ready for festivals including Brazilian Day, 

Shinjuku Eisa, and Africa Hibiya 

46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES 

Judging the Miss Supranational beauty 

pageant, and remembering Muhammad Ali 

JULY 2016 


JULY 2016 

Publisher 

President 

Executive Producer 

Editors 

Art Director 

Sales Director 

Sales Executive 

Media Relations Chief 

Producers 

Account Executives 

Media Consultant 

Society 

Lead Writer 

Editorial Associates 

ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

Takanobu Ushiyama 

Asi Rinestine 

Annemarie Luck 

Alec Jordan 

Liam Ramshaw 

Hirofumi Ohuchi 

Kahori Terakawa 

Junko Shimaya 

Yumi Idomoto 

Claudia Sun 

Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa 

Mary Rudow 

Bill Hersey 

Matthew Hernon 

Natalie Jacobsen 

Vivian Morelli 

Luca Eandi 

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 

Published monthly at JPR Sendagaya Building 8F 

4-23-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0051 

(03) 6863-3096 / (03) 5413-3050 (fax) 

editor@tokyoweekender.com 

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customer-support@tokyoweekender.com 

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広告に関するお問い合わせ先 

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Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors 

are not necessarily those of the publisher 

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 


@mizrama: This month we’re taking quite a unique 

look at traveling around the Tohoku region. Alec, 

you’ve spent some time in Akita ... What’s your favorite 

thing about the prefecture? 

@bapawn: I’ve only been up that way once, but being 

there made me think about a few things. One of them 

is how the geography of Japan has helped to develop 

such marked differences in traditions and even in 

language. Even as a foreigner, you don’t have to travel 

a long distance to feel those changes. 

@mizrama: Yes, he commented on that too; that there 

is plenty to do and see in the areas that weren’t affected 

by the disaster. One of the best reasons to visit is, 

of course, the amazing Aomori Nebuta Matsuri – as 

featured on our cover. 

@bapawn: Definitely. And, if you’re inspired by these 

tales of the road but don’t have the time to head all 

the way up to Tohoku, there’s still plenty of adventure 

to be had within or near Tokyo. Have you ever tried 

stand up paddleboarding, by the way? 

@mizrama: So true. David Song, who I interviewed 

for our Tohoku Travel Special [page 22], made a 

similar observation. He recently spent a few weeks 

traveling around the region, and for him, the thing 

that struck him the most was how content the people 

are. Especially considering the aftermath of the 2011 

disaster. 

@bapawn: Hmm ... he sounds quite optimistic. From 

what I’ve heard from people who are working in the 

communities that were badly hit, there is still a lot to do 

and quite a lot of suffering. But I think that people also 

forget how large the Tohoku area is! Much of it wasn’t 

damaged. 

@mizrama: I have! Although it was on a flat lake and, 

this being Japan, any time I tried to go past a certain 

point, the lifeguards started frantically waving me 

back to shore. I’m sure the spots recommended in our 

outdoor feature [page 34] will be far more exciting. 

@bapawn: I have to admit, though, when the weather’s 

at it’s warmest, that’s almost the ideal time to 

Netflix and chill. 

@mizrama: 

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WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... 

We’ve been on the hunt for artisanal chocolate, and we found it in Tomigaya – the 

neighborhood featured in July’s area guide – as well as at a host of bean-to-bar chocolate 

shops that have been popping up around Tokyo. 

10 AREA GUIDE 12 STYLE 14 BEAUTY 

TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM 


AREA GUIDE 

JUST MINUTES AWAY FROM THE CROWDS IN SHIBUYA IS A LITTLE 

QUIET NEIGHBORHOOD WITH THE PERFECT BLEND OF TRADITIONAL 

SHOPS, HIP BUSINESSES AND CASUAL HANGOUT SPOTS 

Words and photos by Luca Eandi 

THE WEEKENDER 

AREA GUIDE 

TAKING IT EASY IN TOMIGAYA 

SNACKS APLENTY 

Besides your usual French bakeries 

and konbinis, Tomigaya has some great 

spots to pick up a quick walkaround 

snack. On those hot summer afternoons, 

look no further than Gelateria 

Theobroma for freshly made, creamy 

gelato. If that’s not enough to satisfy 

your sweet tooth, Cacao Store offers 

enough bean-to-bar treats to send you 

straight back to a Chocoholics Anonymous 

meeting. For those who have 

never had a pastel de nata, a Portuguese 

egg custard in a puff pastry shell, 

prepare to be hooked by the selection 

at Nata de Cristiano. End off with a 

stop at Fuglen, a hip Norwegian café/ 

cocktail bar with a vintage-style 

interior that’s perfect for coffee or 

cocktail sipping while people watching. 

STOP, SHOP AND STROLL 

Jet-setting lifestyle magazine “Monocle” chose Tomigaya as the location for their 

retail store, which deals in product partnerships with brands like Comme des 

Garçons, Porter, Barena and Mackintosh – and it’s not hard to understand why they 

like the inviting setting. Walking around the neighborhood, it’s fun to see traditional 

businesses, like Tailor Masumi with its charming facade, sharing real estate with 

modern storefronts like that of trendy toy store Project 1/6. Although you do have to 

wonder how specialty shops like German Hobby Dora, which sells rare plastic scale 

models, will afford rising rents in Tomigaya, but here’s to hoping they can keep up. 


LET’S DO LUNCH 

Some neighborhoods indulge your dinner 

and nightlife needs but Tomigaya seems more 

content serving up casual lunches. There’s 

a plethora of lively cafés where you can tuck 

into a hearty sandwich, delicious soup or 

healthy salad. Cafe Greed is one such place; 

it offers a varied menu and also happens to 

serve a mean espresso. Similar in concept and 

just down the street is Camelback Sandwich 

& Espresso. You can’t miss the cow statue in 

front of Shibuya Cheese Stand – they serve 

up freshly made mozzarella and ricotta in a 

variety of tasty sandwiches. A rarity in Tokyo, 

Glutenfree Cafe Little Bird caters to celiac 

disease sufferers and otherwise glutenintolerant 

folk. If you do find yourself in the 

neighborhood for dinner, fear not, as places 

like Ahiru Store, Path, and Tomigaya Terrace 

can take care of your supper needs. 

GET CULTURED 

Tomigaya borders the southwest corner of 

Yoyogi Park, so you can stroll over to Meiji 

Jingu Gyoen in a matter of minutes. This is the 

often-overlooked inner garden of Meiji Shrine 

and features a Japanese-style tea house, an 

iris garden, a turtle and koi pond, and “power 

spot” Kiyomasa’s Well. If you want to keep it 

local, however, on a hill just to the north of the 

neighborhood lies the historic Yoyogihachiman 

Shrine, founded in 1212 by a warrior of the 

Genji Clan. On the same premises, you can see a 

reconstruction of a 4,500-year-old straw dwelling 

discovered only relatively recently in 1950. 

If you’re seeking some art, the Toguri Museum 

of Art is conveniently located on your way 

south towards Shibuya, close to the Bunkamura 

Art Museum and Orchard Hall performing 

arts center. This month, the museum is exhibiting 

imari (Japanese porcelain). 

THE BOOK IS 

BETTER 

Augmenting the chill 

vibes of the neighborhood, 

Tomigaya is also 

home to several independent 

bookstores 

to give you something 

to read over lunch. 

Shibuya Publishing & 

Booksellers is one of 

the best local publishers, 

and the Tomigaya 

location serves as their 

headquarters as well as 

their flagship store. Just 

down the street, Rhythm 

and Books is a charming 

hole in the wall for those 

with cavernous reading 

appetites. If you prefer 

motion pictures to static 

pages, movie theater 

Uplink is also nearby, 

and is a great place 

to catch the latest batch 

of independent film 

releases. The cultural 

complex also includes 

a gallery, a gift shop, 

and the laid-back 

Tabela café. 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY | JULY 2016 2016 | 11 | 11

201604-022 

STYLE 

ILLESTEVA SUNGLASSES 

Celebrate the end of rainy season and the start of (real!) summer with the only accessory you’ll need on a quasi daily basis. 

Picking out a pair of sunglasses can be a bit daunting: should you go for the designer investment pair, or go the cheap and 

trendy route because you’ll end up losing them anyway? We think this Italian-made Illesteva number is a good compromise. 

While not astronomically priced, it has the cool brand name and a classic round frame that won’t go out of style any time soon; 

it’s also flattering for many face shapes. The rose mirrored lenses and thick black frame add a stylish touch. illesteva.com 

MERCURY 

RISING 

BRACE YOURSELVES FOR THE SULTRY 

SEASON WITH THESE MUST-HAVES 

Compiled by Vivian Morelli 

COMMON PROJECTS SNEAKERS 

According to New York magazine, pink sneakers are the new white 

sneakers, so take your pick from the many options available, ranging 

from hot pink to barely there peachy tones. This pair of Common 

Projects is our favorite, thanks to its versatile blush hue and sleek, 

minimalistic design. The brand has only been around for two years, 

but it has already achieved cult status for its utilitarian look and Italian 

quality. The only logo you’ll find on this shoe is the label’s serial 

number in gold. Pair it with florals for a sporty edge, or put them in 

the spotlight with just a white tee and jeans. commonprojects.com

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI DENIM SHIRT 

A denim shirt is a wardrobe staple, and an item you won’t regret purchasing. If you’re 

revamping your closet with classics, we suggest you splurge on a version that’s got 

longevity. And when it comes to shelling out for designer pieces, Brunello Cucinelli is a 

best bet. Renowned for his cashmere pieces and innovative vision, he represents the 

pinnacle of Italian luxury. This slim-fit denim shirt will look good on its own, or layered 

over a T-shirt. Pair it with dark trousers or jeans, but make sure the denim is in a different 

shade to avoid the dreaded “Canadian tuxedo” look. brunellocucinelli.com 

AESOP EXFOLIANT PASTE 

Seasonal changes mean keeping a close eye on your skincare routine, and let’s be honest, a 

clear complexion is your best accessory (turn the page for more help on this). While you don’t 

need to go all out and invest your precious time in a multi-step skincare ritual, exfoliating is 

a step that should not be skipped. The good news is, you only need to do it once or twice a 

week, and it doesn’t take too long. This Aesop Purifying Facial Exfoliant Paste is formulated 

with rosemary, primrose and lavender oil, and its fine grains will slough off dead cells and 

banish impurities, resulting in glowing skin. Who wouldn’t want that? aesop.com 

THE ROW JEANS 

Scorching hot and humid Japanese 

summers may make you hesitant 

when it comes to buying a pair of jeans 

in July. The truth is, while summer in 

the Land of the Rising Sun is indeed 

unbearably hot, Tokyoite fashionistas 

dress according to fashion and not the 

weather. Plus, with heavily air conditioned 

trains, offices and pretty much 

all indoor venues, a little coverage is 

definitely welcome. This pair of jeans 

from The Row embodies summer: a 

light blue wash with a slight fading, and 

a relaxed straight-leg fit. Pair them with 

a silk camisole for after-work drinks, or 

with a soft cotton T-shirt for outdoor 

outings. therow.com 

JIMMY CHOO ESPADRILLES 

Step into summer with a lightweight pair of espadrilles, which 

is a fancy word to describe casual canvas slippers. A bit of 

historical research tells us that espadrilles have been a Catalan 

favorite for centuries, so it’s safe to say it’s a classic summer 

essential. They’re also easy slip-on shoes, which is perfect in Japan, 

where you may need to take off your shoes several times 

a day. Among all the different styles, we especially like this 

Jimmy Choo pair, not only for the name, but for its subtle camouflage 

pattern and contrasting stitching. They are halfway 

between espadrilles and sneakers, so they’re a good starter 

pair if you’re not feeling too confident about the espadrille 

look. jimmychoo.com

F ORGANICS 

THE BRAND Aiming to bring a touch of elegance 

into Japan’s organic beauty world, F Organics features 

sophisticated packaging and luxurious textures. Founded 

by Yoko Tagami, the brand’s focus is on anti-ageing and 

hormonal balance, and all the skincare products feature 

four active natural ingredients: cotton thistle, damask 

rose, pomegranate, and frankincense oil. Using the latest 

botanical technology, F Organics encourages a healthier 

balance and, as a result, brighter, firmer, smoother skin. 

WHAT TO TRY Moisture Cleansing Cream (¥4,104), 

Moisture Lotion (¥4,104), Moisture Cream (¥5,076). Also 

look out for their summer body kit, which debuted in June. 

f-organics.jp 

BEAUTY 

Chic Organic 

Four excellent Japanese brands to try, and four spas for 

a mini organic getaway 

Compiled by Annemarie Luck 

DO ORGANIC 

THE BRAND Created with sensitive skin in mind, Do Organic is one of the most 

popular Japanese organic brands on the market. More than 95 percent of its plant-based 

materials are certified as organic, and it features rice bran extract as a main ingredient. 

The promise? Improved elasticity and firmness, a more even skin tone, and protection 

against harsh environmental elements. 

WHAT TO TRY Washing Mousse (¥3,240) featuring honey and licorice extracts, and 

a fresh rose scent; Enrich Cream Advanced (¥6,480) featuring avocado oil, oat extract, 

chamomile flower oil, and rosemary oil. 

www.do-organic.com 


RUHAKU 

THE BRAND Created in Tokyo, Ruhaku takes inspiration from Okinawan traditions 

and herbs. Their three main ingredients are gettou, a herb from the ginger family 

that’s known for its antibacterial qualities; shekwasha, which is a citrus fruit that helps 

to prevent cell damage and sunspots; and sea grapes (aka green caviar), which are rich 

in minerals and vitamins, and are naturally moisturizing. 

WHAT TO TRY Gettou Night Repair Oil (¥3,960) featuring rosehip oil, pomegranate 

seed oil, and frankincense; Shekwasha Brightening Essence (¥4,950) to help uneven 

skin tone and clogged pores. ruhaku.jp 

ABOVE 

F Organics spa offers luxurious 

organic treatments 

ORGANIC SPAS IN TOKYO 

F ORGANICS 

Founded as an extension of the F Organics 

brand, this salon in Daikanyama is housed 

in a century-old Japanese home, and offers 

indulgent facial and body treatments. 

If you feel like spoiling yourself, go for the 

Organic Beauty Enlightenment all-round 

treatment (¥18,000, 120 minutes). 

f-organics.jp/salon.html 

THREE 

THE BRAND A favorite of Asian beauty 

editors, this range is possibly the closest 

thing to an “It” brand in the Japanese organic 

beauty market. It benefits from sleek, modern 

branding that extends through to its store 

interiors, and its flagship shop in Aoyama 

includes a healthy dining space and a spa. 

Using local ingredients including tea seed oil 

from Aomori and yuzu seed oil from Kochi, the 

brand takes a holistic approach and focuses on 

balancing and strengthening the whole body. 

WHAT TO TRY Point Makeup Remover 

(¥2,800) featuring richly formulated natural 

oils and a beautiful yellow-and-white double 

layer that turns a milky lemon color when 

shaken; Balancing Cleansing Oil (¥4,000) 

featuring oils such as frankincense, bergamot 

fruit, rosemary, and sweet orange. 

www.threecosmetics.com 

TERME FELICE 

Owner Yukari Toufuku is dedicated to 

finding the best organic treatments and 

cosmetics from around the world, so you 

can trust that the products being used 

at Terme Felice are top notch. The spa, 

which is close to Daikanyama Station, 

offers customized facials and a detox 

course to help get rid of toxins. 

tfdbeauty.jp 

ELANA JADE 

Based in Azabu Juban and owned by 

Australian Elana Jade Gilbert, this organic 

beauty salon offers a range of products to 

try, mostly sourced from Australia. Men 

are catered for too with the “Executive 

Men” course (¥21,700, 2.5 hours), which includes 

a facial, oil massage and manicure. 

www.elanajade.com 

RHYTHM SPA 

Situated on the second floor of Three’s 

store in Aoyama, this salon is open to 

both men and women, and offers a 

wonderful head spa menu. Try their 

Summer Special Edition (¥18,000, 75 

minutes), which is offered until August 31 

and designed to help you recharge during 

Tokyo’s exhausting humid season. 

aoyama.threecosmetics.com/spa-menu 


BEAN-TO-BAR 

Chocolate 

It is healthier, has a richer flavor, and is expertly crafted 

Compiled by Annemarie Luck 

GREEN BEAN TO BAR 

THE STORY Chocolate lovers may have 

already heard of Chloe Doutre-Roussel. 

Based in France, she’s a renowned expert 

on all things chocolate, is the author of “The 

Chocolate Connoisseur”, and has long been 

at the forefront of the bean-to-bar trend. 

This bean-to-bar speciality café was founded 

in collaboration with her, and now has two 

branches in Japan: the first in Nakameguro, 

Tokyo; the second in Fukuoka. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM They purchase 

well-fermented and dried cacao beans from 

select growers around the world. Then they 

sort, roast, crack, winnow, grind, refine, 

conch, temper, and wrap all by hand – if 

you’re skeptical about their process, you can 

observe each step at the shop, or attend a 

workshop. Lastly, most of their bars only have 

two ingredients: cacao and organic sugar. 

WHAT TO TRY “Discover the world of 

bonbons chocolate” from the tasting menu. 

2-16-11 Aobadai, Meguro-ku. 

greenchocolate.jp 

FROM TOP 

Green Bean to Bar treats 

DANDELION 

THE STORY Known simply as Todd and Cam, 

the founders of Dandelion describe their journey 

from chocolate lovers to bean-to-bar factory and 

café owners like this: “Our friends watched as we 

experimented with growing cacao plants in our 

apartments, pan roasted beans in the oven, and 

ate our way through the chocolate shops of the 

world.” They first opened up in San Francisco, 

and expanded to Tokyo in February 2016. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM They personally visit 

all the farms they collaborate with to see how 

they work. Once they receive the beans, they 

do as many as eight to 16 tastings before deciding 

on a profile for each new batch – but generally, 

their focus is on the pure flavor of the bean, 

which means they don’t add things like cocoa 

butter or lecithin. And of course, their packaging 

is oh-so-beautiful. 

WHAT TO TRY Their menu changes frequently, 

but you’re always likely to be able to order a cup of 

their delicious House Hot Chocolate. 

4-14-5 Kuramae, Taito-ku. 

www.dandelionchocolate.com 


CHOCOLATE TEA 

With these three healthy drinks, 

even teatime can turn into 

chocolate time 

TEA BOUTIQUE CACAO TEA 

Tea Boutique is one of the product lines of 

Japan Greentea, a company that’s been in the 

tea business since 1969. Their Cacao Tea is 

made with only cacao shells and chicory, and 

offers a rich, aromatic chocolate-y blend. Buy 

it from Amazon.jp or a variety of stockists 

listed on jp-greentea.co.jp. 

MINIMAL BEAN TO 

BAR CHOCOLATE 

THE STORY After opening their first shop 

in Shibuya in 2014, Takatsugu Yamashita and 

Kosuke Tabuchi created a stir in the local beanto-bar 

market. Their chocolates have become 

so popular that in June 2016 they opened a 

branch in Ginza called Bean to Bar Stand. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM They have a 

knack for creating an amazing array of flavors 

– including “fruity”, “nutty,” and “savory” – 

without chemical additives. “The flavor just 

comes from the beans,” says Yamashita. 

WHAT TO TRY Can’t decide what to buy? 

Try their free samples of cacao beans, nibs, 

ground nibs, and chocolate. 

Flagship shop: 2-1-9 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku. 

Bean to Bar Stand: 3-8-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku. 

mini-mal.tokyo 

FROM TOP 

Visit Minimal’s new Bean to Bar Stand 

in Ginza, hot chocolate at Dandelion 

(below left) 

ENGLISH TEA SHOP CHOCOLATE, 

ROOIBOS & VANILLA 

Originally from the UK, English Tea Shop has 

a branch in Japan selling a range of delicious, 

organic blends. Our favorite is the Chocolate, 

Rooibos & Vanilla, which includes cacao nibs 

and vanilla pods. Buy it from Amazon.jp or 

stockists listed on www.etsjapan.co.jp. 

THE 

FLAVOR 

JUST 

COMES 

FROM THE 

BEANS 

TEAPIGS CHOCOLATE FLAKE TEA 

This beautifully packaged teatime treat by UK 

brand Teapigs is made with black tea, cocoa 

beans, chocolate flakes, and natural flavor. 

Besides drinking it straight, they recommend 

trying it with milk or cream or as an iced tea. 

Buy it from Amazon.jp or www.teapigs.co.uk 

(international delivery available). 



[ PROMOTION ] 

What’s New 

AT MAX BRENNER CHOCOLATE BAR 

Weekender picks five of our favorite treats from the 

restaurant’s new brunch menu, launching on July 7, along 

with a few icy delights to beat the summer heat 

Making chocoholics’ dreams 

come true since 1996, Max 

Brenner started out in Israel 

and has since expanded to 

include more than 50 locations around the 

world. Its first Japan branch opened in 2013, 

while the latest and biggest branch in Japan 

opened in April 2016 in Ikspiari shopping 

mall at Tokyo Disney Resort in Chiba. 

While probably most famous for creating 

the chocolate pizza, Max Brenner continues 

to innovate, so you’ll often find unique 

menu items popping up as the seasons 

change and trends evolve. But the common 

theme that always remains is the idea that 

chocolate is a way of life. Every time you 

enter a Max Brenner Chocolate Bar, it’s like 

you’ve been transported into the center of 

a chocolate love story – all your senses are 

catered for, from holding a warm, rounded 

mug as you sip on hot chocolate to breathing 

in its heady aroma. 

Need more inspiration to visit one of the 

cafés? Read on for Weekender’s five most 

anticipated dishes on the new brunch menu, 

which launches on July 7, and for our top 

three cooling desserts on the limited 

summer menu. 

BAGELS DIPPED IN CHOCOLATE 

If you’re the type who likes to keep your 

breakfast combo a little more simple, you 

might enjoy this soft plain bagel that’s 

served with chocolate fondue as well as 

a cheese dip. It also comes with your 

choice of tea or coffee. ¥600 

BEST OF SUMMER 

CONTACT 

Hiroo Plaza 

5-6-6 Hiroo Plaza, Hiroo, Shibuya-ku 

Phone: 03 6450 2400 

Omotesando Hills 

4-12-10 Omotesando Hills, Jingumae, 

Shibuya-ku | Phone: 03 5413 5888 

Tokyo Solamachi 

1-1-2 Tokyo Skytree Town, Oshiage, 

Sumida-ku | Phone: 03 5610 6400 

Ikspiari 

1-4 Maihama, Urayasu-shi, Chiba 

Phone: 047 325 9170 

Lucua Osaka 

North Gate Bldg, 3-1-3 Umeda, Kita-ku, 

Osaka | Phone: 06 6147 7440 

maxbrenner.co.jp 

CACAO NIBS GRANOLA 

Picking up on the cacao trend (see page 16), 

Max Brenner offers this new healthy dish 

featuring plain yogurt, strawberries, 

banana, and granola with delicious, rich 

cacao nibs containing roasted shells from 

cacao beans. ¥700 

GRILLED CHEESE PANINI 

When it comes to finding a satisfying snack, 

you can’t go wrong with a bacon and cheese 

toasted sandwich, and this version comes on 

a wholewheat panini after being baked to 

perfection. It’s also served with a mini 

side salad. ¥750 

MARGHERITA PANINI 

For a delicious savory experience, this 

panini is made from wholewheat flour 

and baked with basil sauce, tomato, and 

mozzarella cheese. It’s served with a mini 

side salad too, making it a good option for 

healthier eaters. ¥750 

CHOCOLATE FRENCH TOAST 

Start your day with fluffy French toast and 

crunchy granola topped with freshly sliced 

strawberries and banana, and drizzled with 

melted milk chocolate. Bound to satisfy 

those who have both a sweet and savory 

tooth. ¥800 

Max Brenner Chocolate Bar is offering a 

limited menu until August 31. Here’s what 

to order: MAX’S I SCREAM CHOCOLATE 

PIZZA with ice cream and marshmallows 

(¥900); LUXURY MILKSHAKE with cream, 

an ice cream cone, cookies, and a waffle 

(¥1,400); SALTED PINEAPPLE CHOCTAIL with 

white chocolate and pineapple (¥750). 

HIROO KIDS’ WORKSHOP 

Head to Max Brenner’s Hiroo Plaza branch 

for these twice-monthly events, where kids 

create chocolate desserts, and enjoy plenty 

of other fun activities. Great for birthday 

parties! Call 03 6450 2400 for info. 


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“IT’S GOT EVERYTHING” 

This is what travel company owner David Song said 

when asked why he recommends Tohoku as a top 

vacation destination. We begin our Tohoku Travel 

Special with photos and musings from Song, who 

recently spent weeks exploring the region’s six 

prefectures. Then, we continue our tour by taking an 

in-depth look at Akita, which is home to the famed 

“obako” (women who symbolize the area’s youth and 

richness), the Warabi-za theatrical group, and some of 

the most moving fireworks displays you’ll ever see. 

TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM 


22 | JULY 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 

Interview by Annemarie Luck. Photographs by David Song

[ TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL ] 

David Song, founder of Singapore-based bespoke 

travel company Beyond X Boundaries, recently spent 

several weeks exploring Japan’s Tohoku region. 

To kick off our Tohoku Travel Special, we asked the 

seasoned traveler to share his photos from three of 

the prefectures – Aomori, Fukushima, and Iwate – 

along with notes on his discoveries 

WHAT INSPIRED YOUR 

JOURNEY AROUND TOHOKU, 

AND HOW LONG DID IT TAKE? 

I’ve always been an advocate for 

experiential travel to Japan with 

its rich heritage and culture, not to 

mention the unbelievable cuisine. 

Where Tohoku is concerned, it has 

been five years since the 2011 earthquake 

and tsunami, and since then 

tourism – and therefore business 

– has been greatly affected largely 

due to the media’s wrong association 

of the disasters with the entire 

region. The disasters affected only 

a small part of Tohoku. I hope to 

spread awareness and education of 

the positives through my journey. 

TELL US ABOUT YOUR FIRST 

IMPRESSION OF THE AREA. 

My first stop was Aomori city and 

I was immediately enamored by 

the city’s subtlety, and the friendly 

locals. Speaking not a word of 

Japanese, I visited a local izakaya 

called Ringochaya, which translates 

to “Apple Tea House.” I was probably 

the first non-Japanese-speaking 

visitor to visit the bar but the locals 

made me feel very welcome. The 

bar plays host to Tsugaru-style 

shamisen so I was also treated to 

some astonishing music. It is unbelievably 

authentic, and would you 

believe I ended up hanging out with 

the locals and kampai-ing on sake 

till the bar closed. 

WHAT MADE THE MOST 

IMPACT ON YOU? 

The smiles of the people. Despite 

being unfairly documented 

regarding the earthquake and 

tsunami five years ago, the people 

wore smiles as if nothing negative 

had happened to them. These are 

some of the happiest people I’ve 

ever met – not just in Japan but 

around the world, and I’ve been 

to 58 countries so I’m speaking 

from experience. 

DO YOU FEEL THAT THERE 

ARE SIGNS OF THE AREA 

REGENERATING? 

Yes. It’s been five years and, even 

in Fukushima Prefecture, I saw no 

hints of the tragedy at all. I think 

international travelers need to 

get over it and stop stigmatizing 

the incident. Tourism Tohoku has 

been active in their marketing and 

promotion of the region, which is 

great. Travelers have already been 

to many other parts of Japan. Now 

they are curious and dying to discover 

the magic of Tohoku. 

WHY WOULD YOU 

RECOMMEND PEOPLE VISIT 

TOHOKU? 

It is currently not consumed by 

mass tourism. This has helped to 

keep Tohoku pleasant, less crowded, 

and more intimate. For Japan 

travel connoisseurs, Tohoku is 

a region with everything encompassed 

– it’s even a great ski destination 

too. It has got everything. 

Great food, extremely hospitable 

people who redefine the meaning 

of Japanese omotenashi, exciting 

boutique accommodations, spectacular 

landscapes, and of course 

a wonderful array of festivals. 

It also combines extremely well 

with Hokkaido following the 

introduction of the Hokkaido 

Shinkansen. And it’s convenient 

to get to from Tokyo. 

DO YOU PLAN TO START 

OFFERING BESPOKE TOURS 

TO THIS REGION THROUGH 

YOUR COMPANY? 

That is without doubt the plan as 

I feel Tohoku has boundless possibilities. 

With the Olympics coming 

to Tokyo in 2020, I feel that Tohoku 

will be reborn. 

For more information about 

David’s travels and tours, visit 

www.beyondxboundaries.com. 


TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: FUKUSHIMA & IWATE 

Fukushima 

“Due to the nuclear disaster at Fukushima Daiichi, this 

prefecture is now famous for the wrong reasons. So 

naturally, many were concerned and asked me what the 

heck I was doing in Fukushima. Firstly, we should get our 

geography right by recognizing that this prefecture is huge. 

Secondly, although it is true that the coastal cities are now 

abandoned, the inner lands of Fukushima are undamaged. 

I had an exceptional time in this region renowned for its 

hidden hot springs, the best sake in the country (Niigata 

Prefecture may want to contest that), and stunning towns. 

People were so inviting, and when asked how they feel about 

what the rest of the world is thinking about Fukushima, one 

old lady replied, ‘It’s okay. No problem. We continue’.” 

WHEN ASKED HOW 

THEY FEEL ABOUT 

WHAT THE REST 

OF THE WORLD IS 

THINKING ABOUT 

FUKUSHIMA, ONE 

OLD LADY REPLIED, 

‘IT’S OKAY. 

NO PROBLEM. 

WE CONTINUE’ 

Iwate 

“Bordering the prefectures of Aomori 

to the north, Akita to the west, and Miyagi 

to the south, Iwate Prefecture is not just 

the second largest prefecture in Japan 

but also an idyllic region renowned for 

its secret onsen towns, magnificent World 

Heritage temples, and an assortment 

of interesting and sumptuous soba. 

On my maiden journey here, I visited 

the beautiful small town of Kitakami, 

renowned as one of the top three sakura 

spots in Japan. I also visited the historic 

town of Hiraizumi, and finished 62 bowls 

of Wanko Soba – not bad for a first try 

although I intend eat over 100 bowls 

on my next visit.” 

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Idyllic Iwate, Fukushima boasts some of the best sake in the country, 

it’s also dotted with pretty little towns, the breathtaking Aomori Nebuta Festival is held 

every summer, Hirosaki Castle is mesmerizing and offers spectacular sakura viewing 


TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: AOMORI 

Aomori 

“The northernmost prefecture of mainland Honshu, 

Aomori is the gateway to an eclectic culture most 

notably represented by the Aomori Nebuta Matsuri. This 

breathtaking festival is held every summer and showcases 

gigantic colorful and expressive floats and lanterns 

[pictured above] depicting scenes from famous folklores, 

legends and romanticized historical events in Japan’s 

storied history. It’s also a food paradise as it shares its spoil 

of fresh catch with Hakodate in Hokkaido. Prices here are 

half of what you will pay elsewhere in Japan. And how can 

you visit the prefecture without sampling its renowned 

Aomori apples? Huge, crunchy and juicy. Also be sure to 

visit the castle town of Hirosaki, the undisputed Number 

One Sakura Viewing Destination in Japan, if not the world. 

This historic town is just an hour’s drive from Aomori city. 

Walking through the Hirosaki Castle complex and gardens 

is a mesmerizing experience.” 


[ PROMOTION ] 

TOHOKU TRAVEL SPECIAL: AKITA 

Akita 

We continue our tour of Tohoku as we spend time with one of 

the symbols of this northern prefecture – the Akita Obako 

Among the prefectures of Tohoku, Akita 

holds a special position. You would be 

hard-pressed to find an area that is home 

to such geographical variety, which ranges 

from the fertile plains where rice has been 

cultivated for generations to the rugged coastline on the 

west. It’s a land that produces plenty of renowned sake 

(and consumes more of it than any other prefecture), and 

draws tourists to the many onsen that surround the scenic 

Lake Tazawa to the south. It’s also a region that maintains 

a strong connection to its agrarian past through its wide 

variety of seasonal festivals, from the cultural celebrations 

that the cities hold in the dead of winter to fireworks 

competitions that set the night skies ablaze. Join us over 

the next few months, as we explore this unique land, 

and the many traditions that have sprung from it. 

We begin our cultural tour with the Akita Obako, a figure 

who has become a symbol of the region’s youth and of 

the richness of this northern prefecture. 

A CHILD OF THE LAND 

In Akita ben, or the dialect of Japanese as it is spoken in 

Akita, obako means “daughter,” but the word is often 

used to refer to an unmarried woman. A local phrase 

– “Akita obako musume” – is used to refer to someone 

who was born and raised in Akita. The city of Daisen is 

where the phrase first began being used, but it is now 

a common turn of phrase used around the prefecture. 

Unlike the Akita Bijin, or “beauty of Akita,” the Akita 

Obako is meant to represent a simple, unstudied grace, 

and it’s a quality you can expect to encounter on your 

travels around the prefecture. 


[ PROMOTION ] 


SHE’S GOT THE LOOK 

The Akita Obako frequently appears in traditional 

farming clothes: a dark blue coat and pants, 

which are marked with colorful, geometric 

patterns. The outfit is set off with a thick red belt 

and shoulder straps, which would have been 

a kind of simple backpack years before, and 

topped with a red ribbon in the hair. In a case 

of life imitating art, most of the time that people 

are dressing as the Akita Obako, they dress in 

the same style as the manga “original,” (sidebar) 

sometimes adding a pair of red cloth gloves. In 

photographs, she is often next to the thick-stalked, 

broad-leaved fuki. A type of butterbur that is also 

known as Japanese sweet coltsfoot, the fuki is 

Akita’s official plant. This wild-growing green can 

quickly grow to impressive heights and is known 

for its tangy, bitter taste. 

THE ECHOES OF TRADITION 

Along with the prefecture’s many festivals, 

Akita is known for its rich history of folk 

singing, and there is a famous minyo (folk song) 

named in honor of the Akita Obako. The song’s 

lyrics tell of a 17-year-old girl who spends 

her time amid hills and fields, gazing on the 

blooming trees and flowers. 

It’s a well known song that has been 

recorded by everyone from traditional Japanese 

singers to the switched-on shamisen duo, 

the Yoshida Brothers. But perhaps nowhere 

is it more beloved than in the Omagari 

neighborhood of Daisen, where a yearly 

folksinging competition is held. Young and 

old join take part each June as each singer 

does their utmost to bring an award-winning 

interpretation to the beloved words and melody. 

LADIES OF THE RAILWAY 

In honor of the neighborhood’s musical 

heritage, every time a train pulls in to Omagari 

Station, the melody of “Akita Obako” plays 

over the loudspeakers. Thanks to a promotion 

held by Yuri Kougen Railways, visitors to the 

area can also spend a bit of time with the Akita 

Obako themselves. 

On one trip during the weekend, the train 

Attendants for the 

Akita Obako railway 

service pose in front 

of Yashima Station 

The Yuri Kougen 

railway passes a 

flooded field of rice 

THE AKITA OBAKO IS 

MEANT TO REPRESENT 

A SIMPLE, UNSTUDIED 

GRACE, WHICH YOU CAN 

EXPECT TO ENCOUNTER 

ON YOUR TRAVELS 

AROUND THE PREFECTURE 

runs its full route – a total of 12 stations – 

between Yashima and Ugohonjo with a group 

of attendants passing up and down the aisles, 

serving regional specialties. And at the final 

station of Yashima, a local woman named 

Matsuko has been keeping the tradition of 

the friendly station shopkeep 

alive. Matsuko opened her shop 

“Matsuko’s Room” back in 1985, 

and many people make the trip 

from Tokyo and farther south 

just to pay the shop a visit. 

For those of us who are 

used to packed, multi-car 

train trips, riding a single car 

through the scenic landscapes 

around Daisen feels like a step 

back in time, a feeling that is 

only amplified by the presence 

of these traditionally dressed 

women, garbed in history. 

For more information about 

Yuri Kougen’s service, visit 

www.obako5.com 

DRAWING A 

CHARACTER TO LIFE 

The concept of the Akita Obako 

was given a distinct visual 

identity thanks to the Japanese 

Agriculture (JA) collective, who 

began using a manga-inspired 

image of the young woman on 

their product packaging and 

buildings nearly 20 years ago. 

The original picture was drawn 

by an employee of the collective 

who was also an amateur 

manga artist; reproductions of 

the picture can now be found on 

products around the region. Given 

Japan’s love of the yuru kyara 

– a cartoon figure that is often 

used as part of the branding of 

a prefecture, city, or business 

– it should come as no surprise 

that this simply drawn version 

of the regional character has 

developed a life of her own. In 

fact, she might have even been a 

little ahead of her time, having 

gotten the historical jump on 

such super popular characters as 

Kumamon and Funassyi. 


[ PROMOTION ] 


Setting the 

Night Afire 

The city of Daisen, in Akita Prefecture, is home to some of Japan’s largest 

fireworks competitions. It also has a long history of pyrotechnics production, 

and some of the country’s most respected fireworks companies, including 

Komatsuenka and Hibikiya, are based there. As these firms prepare 

for the 16th International Fireworks Symposium in Daisen’s Omagari 

neighborhood from April 24 to 29, 2017, we speak with two women who 

have dedicated themselves to this craft that blends chemistry and aesthetics. 


[ PROMOTION ] 


The Firestarters 

THERE 

WAS ONE 

SKYROCKET 

THAT 

BROUGHT ME 

TO TEARS 

when I saw the first skyrocket I ever 

made decorate the night sky with a 

‘BANG!’ I knew that I had made the 

right decision. But at the same time, 

as if I were thinking about the fireworks 

as my own children, I wanted 

to improve my skill even more.” 

Settsu has been working at 

Komatsuenka for nine years, is 

married to a man from Akita, and 

has a four-year-old daughter. She is 

constantly pushing herself to develop 

new fireworks, and she is most proud 

of her latest creation: the lyrically 

named “A Tear Falling from a Cheek, 

Transformed into a Star.” 

MAKIKO SETTSU 

A native of Yamaguchi Prefecture, Settsu 

had worked as a construction foreman 

and in other construction-related jobs 

before she was drawn to the world of 

fireworks thanks to a chance visit to a 

fireworks festival in Nagano about 10 

years ago. She went on a whim, but her 

decision changed her life. “There was 

one skyrocket that I remember that 

brought me to tears – I had to find out 

who manufactured it. When I found out 

that it was Komatsuenka, I called them 

right away.” 

But it wasn’t an easy job application. 

The head of the company refused her at 

first. He acknowledged her enthusiasm, 

but told her that the hours would be too 

long and the pay too little. Undaunted, 

she returned to ask for a job some time 

later, only to be turned down again. It 

was on her third and final request that 

the president said, “Well, if you’re that 

eager…” and he offered her the job. 

That was when the real challenges – 

and rewards – began. “It was very tough, 

and there were some times when I 

thought about quitting. But the moment 

ABOVE 

Makiko Settsu, Misato Hashimoto 

TOP LEFT 

Misato Hashimoto (bottom, 2nd from 

left) with her fellow workers at Hibikiya 

BELOW 

Makiko Settsu and Misato Hashimoto 

at work 

MISATO HASHIMOTO 

Like Settsu, Hashimoto is something 

of an honorary “Akita Obako.” She 

is from Miyazaki Prefecture on the 

southern island of Kyushu, and began 

working at the Hibikiya Fireworks 

Company this year. She was also 

profoundly moved by a fireworks display 

– in her case, while on a working 

holiday in Australia. “Even though 

fireworks shows in Australia are 

different from those in Japan, I knew 

that I wanted to take a chance at a job 

that would let me inspire those kinds 

of emotions in people.” 

Hashimoto moved back to Japan 

and started studying fireworks for 

some time in Niigata, moving to 

Hibikiya during the season of deepest 

snow, in January. While she is just 

learning the art of pyrotechnics, the 

path she has set for herself is already 

clear: “I want to make fireworks that 

we can enter into competitions; fireworks 

that surprise people and bring 

a smile to their faces.” 

WHEN TO SEE 

FIREWORKS IN DAISEN 

AUGUST 27, 2016 

National Fireworks Competition 

OCTOBER 8, 2016 

Omagari Autumn Fireworks 

MARCH 18, 2017 

Omagari Winter Fireworks 

APRIL 24-29, 2017 

16th International Fireworks Symposium 


[ PROMOTION ] 


Musicals with Deep Roots 

Traditional music and dance take center stage with the Warabi-za theatrical group 

When it comes to understanding 

the roots of another 

culture, the performing arts 

provides a unique window. 

Learning how to speak the language is 

invaluable, of course, but there’s something 

intangible, perhaps more profound, that 

can be perceived by clapping along with a 

centuries-old work song or seeing dancers 

perform steps whose origins date back more 

than a thousand years. 

This kind of connection is what the 

Warabi-za performance troupe has been 

providing its audiences since it was founded 

in 1951. Based in the Akita Prefecture city of 

Semboku, the group is best known for adapting 

Japanese folk traditions – particularly the 

stories, songs, and dances of the people of 

Tohoku – to music and dance performances. 

Linked to the labor that people have been 

doing in Japan for centuries, these songs and 

dances come in a wide variety. Some are 

traditional work songs, meant to provide a 

rhythm that would accompany the work of 

harvesting rice or cutting lumber. Others 

have their origins in the time when that 

tough work was complete and it was time to 

celebrate with songs, ceremonies, and dances 

that were meant, in part, to ask the gods for 

good growing conditions and a healthy crop, 

but which also strengthened deep ties within 

the community and helped people prepare 

for the next season’s challenges and rewards. 

Since its founding almost 65 years ago, 

Warabi-za has expanded to seven different 

groups that collectively perform more than 

1,000 shows throughout the country and also 

regularly perform overseas – in 16 different 

countries to date. Both inside Japan and 

abroad, the group introduces this musical 

heritage to those who are entirely new to 

it, and shares these traditions with modern 

Japanese audiences who may have lost touch 

with the time-honored ways. 

Although Warabi-za has a heavy touring 

schedule that sends its troupes around Japan, 

perhaps the best place to see them perform 

is at their home base in Semboku. Set in a 

section of Akita Prefecture that is known 

for its natural beauty, abundant hot springs, 

and the black-walled Kakunodate residences 

that used to house the samurai families of 

old, Warabi-za’s home theater is a part of the 

Akita Art Village, an aesthetic getaway that 

combines the comforts of a resort and the 

culturally inspiring surroundings of an arts 

colony. Established more than 20 years ago, 

it’s a location where you can witness impressive 

performances, be soothed by pristine 

scenery – even take your own turn on stage. 

THESE SONGS AND 

DANCES ARE LINKED TO 

THE LABOR THAT HAS 

BEEN DONE IN JAPAN 

FOR CENTURIES 

TOP: One of the Warabi-za troupes performs the musical, “Haru Ran Ran” 

BOTTOM: Staging the Akita Kanto Festival and the Kakunodate Oyamabayashi 

WHAT TO DO AT 

AKITA ART VILLAGE 

Beginning this summer, the Warabi-za 

troupe will be bringing the traditional 

dances and songs of the six prefectures 

of the Tohoku region (Akita, Aomori, 

Iwate, Fukushima, Miyagi, and Yamagata) 

to polished life with their “Tohoku 

Festival Night Stage.” It’s an opportunity 

for young, old, foreign, and Japanese 

to gain a deeper appreciation of this 

musical heritage. 

However, a visit to Akita Art Village 

gives guests a chance to do more 

than just see Warabi-za’s shows – they 

can also try their hand at performing 

during their stay. Professionally led 

workshops are available in traditional 

Japanese dance, taiko drumming, or 

stage fighting. Whenever it’s time to take 

a break from artistic endeavors, there’s 

a dip in an onsen waiting as well as an 

array of the local Tazawako Brewery’s 

celebrated beers to be sampled. 

www.warabi.jp/english/ 


TOP 5 

SUMMER FESTIVALS IN TOHOKU 

THINKING OF VISITING THE REGION NEXT MONTH? BESIDES THE IMPRESSIVE 

AOMORI NEBUTA FESTIVAL, THERE ARE PLENTY OF LIVELY MATSURI TAKING 

PLACE IN AUGUST 

YAMAGATA HANAGASA 

This one also boasts a performance 

by around 10,000 dancers, but for 

this one they’re holding hanagasa 

(“flower hats”). The three-day event 

is held from August 5 to 7, and attracts 

over one million people with 

its beautiful costumes, impressive 

floats, and unique choreography. 

www.hanagasa.jp 

MORIOKA SANSA ODORI 

Taiko fans will relish the chance 

to see over 10,000 drummers and 

dancers parading the city of Morioka 

in Iwate Prefecture between 

August 1 and 4. Listed in the Guinness 

Book of Records as “the world’s 

largest drum parade,” this festival 

is probably one of the most colorful 

and musically impressive ones 

you’ll see in Japan. 

www.sansaodori.jp 

SENDAI TANABATA 

While Tanabata festivals are usually held 

in Japan in July, the Sendai version takes 

place from August 6 to 8. Also known as 

the Star Festival, this traditional event is a 

celebration of the legend that tells of two 

stars, Vega and Altair, who were separated 

lovers only allowed to meet once a year in 

the Milky Way. It’s one for the romantics, 

for sure, but it also impresses with unbelievably 

big and colorful decorations that 

take over the streets. 

www.sendaitanabata.com/en 

FUKUSHIMA WARAJI 

Amusingly, this festival features a 

giant waraji (straw sandal) that’s 

12 m long, weighs two tons, and 

is carried by 100 people through 

Fukushima city. The point? To pray 

to be a “good walker” and increase 

patriotism. The event has been 

going since the Edo era, and is held 

from August 2 to 3. 

tinyurl.com/TWwaraji 

AKITA KANTO 

Held from August 3 to 6 every year, the Kanto Festival 

is intended to frighten away “demons” before 

the autumn harvest. Designated as an Important 

Intangible Folk Cultural Property in 1980, it’s one 

of the four biggest summer matsuri in Tohoku, 

and features hundreds of competitive performers 

balancing massive lantern polls as they’re cheered 

on by the crowds. 

www.kantou.gr.jp/english 


Every year, Japan gasses 80 percent of the cats and dogs in its shelters, 

which receive around 200 animals a day. There are only two vets in Japan 

who advocate spaying and neutering. The list goes on… 

Words by Natalie Jacobsen 

Elizabeth Oliver and ARK (Animal 

Rescue Kansai) representatives climbed 

the steps to a dog breeder’s property 

in Shiga. They were responding to 

claims about animal abuse, intending to capture 

evidence for the court. At least 30 Dachshunds, 

all in various states of starvation – or decay – lay 

in the owner’s back garden. When the owner 

spotted Oliver, they called the police. Oliver was 

arrested, and the breeder was not even so much 

as reprimanded. 

It took another five years for ARK to bring 

this particular breeder to justice. Their business 

was suspended and they were ordered to pay 

¥100,000. “You can’t force people to surrender 

an animal in Japan, no matter how much abuse 

is documented,” says Oliver. “And if you call the 

police, they will not even bother responding.” 

This is why animal advocacy groups are so essential 

in Japan. Oliver founded ARK 25 years ago 

after being inspired by the late Rotraut Bomford, 

founder of JAWS (Japan Animal Welfare Society). 

After Bomford assisted Oliver in adopting a Great 

Dane that had been used for lab experiments, 

Oliver developed an interest in protecting animals. 

Today, Oliver’s NPO actively pursues cases, 

fighting in and out of court to gain awareness and 

help educate the public on animal welfare – all 

while finding homes for strays. 

Julie Okamoto of Tokyo ARK 

IN JAPAN, 

EACH CYCLE 

OF DOG 

OWNERSHIP 

RARELY 

SURVIVES 

BEYOND 

TWO YEARS 

PET TRENDS IN JAPAN 

“The ‘My Home’ movement, which happened in 

Japan in the 60s or 70s, started the idea that to 

have a complete home you needed a garden and 

a dog,” Oliver explains. At first, most pet owners 

opted to choose very “national” dogs, from the 

native Akita breed to the famed Shiba Inu. Cats 

were, in contrast, not popular until several decades 

later. 

“Trendy” pet ownership came about after the 

release of the 1983 Japanese film “Antarctica,” 

which starred a cast of 17 huskies. The avalanche 

of families clamoring to own a husky was unprecedented. 

“But they learned, after a year or two, 

just how big they get, and [many of the huskies] 

were returned or discarded,” according to Oliver. 

Lately, interest in smaller dogs has been 

increasing – so much so that breeders opt to keep 

runts of each litter, and breed them to maintain 

the miniature body structures. Dachshunds are 

longer. Poodles are smaller. Chihuahuas are 

daintier. “The physical sizes, and drive to keep 

breeding smaller dogs cosmetically causes issues 

in the future,” says Helen Marvell of Animal 

Advocacy and Animal Walk Tokyo. 

Julie Okamoto of Tokyo ARK explains the repercussions: 

“The smaller the dog, the narrower 

the hips. Many female dogs [bought from pet 

shops or breeders] will be too small to give birth 


egularly. Most surgeries performed at clinics 

recently are C-sections.” Many breeders do the 

surgery themselves, forcing female dogs to give 

birth four or five times before disposal. 

Then, behind the breeders you have the yakuza, 

Oliver claims. “They have the money and means 

to bring in an exotic array of animals and meet 

demands. In smaller prefectures the yakuza have 

infiltrated all factions of the community, the pet 

shops, breeders, police, and local government.” 

In Japan, each cycle of dog ownership rarely 

survives beyond two years, “[going] out of 

fashion, just like clothing,” says Oliver. Dachshunds, 

Chihuahuas, Shih-tzus, and terriers have 

all had their 15 minutes of fame. “In the late 90s 

there was a brief spike in interest in Dalmatians – 

credit Disney.” 

The most recently sought-after pooch? “The 

Apricot Toy Poodle,” asserts Marvell. 

“The increase in pet cafés – for owls, cats, 

dogs and rabbits – encourages interest in other, 

sometimes more exotic, animals,” says Marvell. 

“The most recent is the hedgehog café – so now 

more pet shop owners are bringing in hedgehogs.” 

Likely trauma for small animals is “induced by 

being caged in unnatural habitats and frequently 

handled by customers ... I’m certain in about two 

or three years, we will see many wandering in the 

parks or winding up at animal shelters.” 

THE PROBLEM WITH ANIMAL SHELTERS 

Tokyo Zero, one of the groups behind 2014’s “No 

Kill” campaign, estimates that almost 311,000 

dogs and cats were culled via the gassing method 

at shelters across Japan in 2014. According to the 

Ministry of Environment, the number is closer to 

100,000. Although the numbers vary depending 

on the source, most sources indicate that between 

82 to 88 percent of all animals at shelters in Japan 

will be put down, with roughly 11 percent being 

adopted. The remaining fraction is passed on to 

pet shops, kept for image, or sold to labs. 

The reason for these high culling rates is overcrowding. 

Shelters receive around 200 animals 

a day, and manage to rehome an average of just 

two. Once an animal has been placed in a shelter, 

it has, depending on the prefecture, about three 

to seven days left to be adopted before the shelter 

must decide its fate. 

THE GAP IN REGULATIONS 

“There were no regulations about owning a pet 

until 1973, when they enacted the Control Animal 

Act [now called the Act on Welfare and Management 

of Animals] in time for the Queen [of England]’s 

visit,” states Oliver. Originally the purpose 

was to show the Corgi-loving royal that Japan “had 

dogs in mind, too.” But in 1998 the government 

passed a stipulation requiring re-visitation of the 

law every five years to update animal and pet 

owner regulations. 

In 2013, there was an amendment to the 

law that stated a person may be imprisoned for 

destroying an animal without proper reason. This 

amendment was promoted publicly using the 

slogan, “A dog is for life,” and shortly afterwards 

Tokyo Zero’s “No Kill” campaign picked up steam. 

But while “dogs are for life” is a great message in 

theory, Okamoto raises some concerns about the 

law: “Elderly people moving into nursing homes 

end up leaving their animals on the streets 

JAPAN VS 

THE WORLD 

AVERAGE PERCENTAGE OF 

CATS AND DOGS CULLED AT 

SHELTERS, 2011-2014 

JPN: CATS 88% | DOGS 82% 

CHN: CATS 30% | DOGS 40% 

USA: CATS 41% | DOGS 31% 

UK: CATS 6% | DOGS 21% 

Data from PETA, RSPCA/ASPCA, Dogs Trust, 

HSI, and government-provided stats 

because they can’t take them with, but they also 

can’t legally return the pet.” Oliver adds: “Even 

if a dog is riddled with cancer and in pain, a vet 

following this regulation, or a shelter that is ‘no 

kill,’ will not put it to sleep. It’s just another form 

of animal abuse.” 

Of all Japan’s prefectures, Kumamoto is the 

only one to significantly change the way its shelters 

deal with animals. There, gas is prohibited 

from being used. 

“In other places, like Nara and Tokushima, 

residents said they didn’t feel comfortable with 

gassing “on premises” of shelters. So the shelters 

merely found a loophole, says animal advocate 

Masatoshi Ito. He tells of the “dream truck,” 

where animals are loaded at the end of the week 

and driven to the crematorium. On the way, the 

driver pushes a “release” button, sending gas into 

the back of the truck. Regardless of whether the 

animals are still alive or not, they are dumped 

into the incinerator. “Nobody can pinpoint the 

location where the gassing happens, so nobody 

can bring a case against them to stop it.” 

THE FUTURE 

This year, ARK is celebrating reaching nintei status 

as an NPO, which means they are now fully 

recognized by the government and will begin 

receiving benefits. 

In Sasayama, Oliver and ARK representatives 

recently opened a new kind of shelter intended 

to re-establish the image of “going to the pound” 

in Japan. All materials to build the shelter were 

brought in from England with the help of the 

UK’s Dogs Trust group. “The cages are large 

with glass fronts, are well lit, and have play 

areas,” says Oliver, explaining that presentation 

is important to Japanese people, so she and her 

team aim to redesign and set a trend in shelters 

across the country. 

Machiko Nakano, a volunteer and representative 

of Tokyo ARK, believes we need to reduce 

the numbers of the abandoned by raising the age 

at which puppies and kittens can be sold, and by 

finding more veterinarians who are not afraid 

to spay or neuter pets. There are currently only 

two vets in Japan who openly advocate spaying 

and neutering. One of them is Kuwosawa Yasushi, 

based in Yokohama, and he provides monetary 

incentives to pet owners who choose to proceed 

with the operation, which typically costs three 

times as much as it does in Western nations. 

Some animal advocacy groups, such as 

Animal Walk Tokyo, host regular adoption fairs, 

shelter tours, campaigns, and sanpo (walk) events 

to spread awareness. “In Kobe, we have started 

a kids’ program among the Girl Scouts, showing 

them how to care for pets,” says Nakano. “As 

things are now, Japan still has another 100 years 

before animal rights are truly adopted,” she says. 

“We need teach people how to protect them. We 

need to stop saying ‘oh, poor thing’.” 

Note: Some names have been changed to protect 

identities due to ongoing investigations and 

privacy concerns. 

USEFUL CONTACTS 

Tokyo ARK www.arkbark.net | Animal Advocacy 

Japan www.facebook.com/animaladvocacyjapan 

ALIVE www.alive-net.net | Animal Walk Tokyo 

www.animalwalktokyo.org 


THE OUTSIDERS 

YOU’VE GOT ONE MORE MONTH BEFORE IT GETS WAY TOO HOT TO GO OUTSIDE. 

MAKE THE MOST OF JULY WITH OUR ROUNDUP OF SOME OF THE BEST PLACES 

TO GO HIKING, CYCLING, SKATEBOARDING, STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING, AND 

CANYONING – ALL RECOMMENDED BY LOCALS IN THE KNOW 

Compiled by Annemarie Luck and Alec Jordan 

Photo: Daisuke Urano 

Canyoning 

As Kieren McNamara, owner of Tenjin 

Lodge (www.tenjinlodge.com) in Minakami, 

Gunma Prefecture, explained, the hybrid 

sport is “a refreshing adventure” that 

combines mountaineering skills with the 

built-in feeling of jumping in an ice-cool 

mountain stream. These are a few of his 

favorite places: 

CLOSE TO HOME 

“There are two separate canyons within 

five minutes’ walk of Tenjin Lodge including 

one which passes right underneath the 

lodge and I jump in as often as possible 

during summer.” 

CRAZY LIKE A FOX 

“In my opinion, though, the most exciting 

canyon in Minakami is Fox Canyon. It 

involves an 18m waterfall, lots of natural 

beauty and plenty of thrills.” 

Stand Up 

Paddleboarding 

A little easier to get started with than traditional surfing, stand up paddleboarding 

(SUP) lets riders catch waves while remaining vertical. Splash 

Guest House’s (www.splashguesthouse.com) Dane Gillett was radical 

enough to let us in on his favorite Chiba spots. 

HEBARA BEACH, KATSUURA 

“Hebara Beach is a golden sanded beach with clear blue water. About 

15 kilometers up and down the coast there are more than 15 different 

bays, and plenty of them are perfect for SUP.” 

UBARA AND MORIYA BEACHES 

“Ubara and Moriya beaches are ranked among the top 50 nicest 

beaches in Japan. Both of them are horse-shoe shaped bays 

with clean white sand and beautiful green water. Both of these 

beaches can break in the waist to shoulder high range when 

conditions are right.” 

34 | JUNE 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

Cycling 

Tikini Pickens of Cartel Bikes gives us his top three cycling routes around Tokyo: 

RIDE TO ODAIBA 

“There are only a few routes one can take to get to this man-made island, but mine usually entails 

passing Shiba-koen, Hamamatsucho and Shibaura, and then walking along Rainbow Bridge with 

my bike in tow. On my way back I usually pass by Harumi Terminal. It’s always a pleasure cycling 

next to water.” 

RIDE TO RYOGOKU 

“I usually cycle through Aoyama Cemetery via Nogizaka Tunnel, which takes me into Akasaka. 

From there it’s Toranomon, a quick drop into Shinbashi, Hibiya/Ginza, and then Marunouchi. Then 

I head toward Nihonbashi, Kiyosumi Shirakawa and Morishita before arriving in Ryogoku. There is 

so much to discover on the east side of Tokyo, and on weekend evenings the roads are less busy.” 

RIDE TO THE TAMA RIVER 

“A straightforward ride from Ebisu following the 416 road will take you through the neighborhoods 

of Nakameguro and Gakugei-daigaku, which boast lots of wonderful treats like the izakaya Ban. 

A bit further along the 416, you’ll pass by pretty Komazawa Park. The Futako Tamagawa area is also 

a treat to navigate.” 

Hiking 

The “Hiking in Japan” group on 

Facebook (tinyurl.com/japanhiking) 

is a great place to get detailed advice 

about trails around the country. Two of 

their members (we’ll keep their names 

private) told us about their favorite 

lesser-known trails. 

RYOGAMISAN IN SAITAMA 

“From Tokyo you’d have to take the 

train to Chichibu Station and then a bus 

to the trailhead, so it’s a long go. But the 

hike to the summit is about three hours 

or so and it’s a beautiful ascent up 

through green forest, passing a ravine 

with red chert. There’s a small lodge 

where you can rest and above that a 

shrine. The summit is a rocky ridge 

jutting through the trees.” 

MURAYAMA IN SAITAMA 

“A really nice hike that I’ve done 

twice is by Ashigakubo station on the 

Seibu-Ikebukuro line. Very convenient 

from Ikebukuro but not very crowded.” 

After you’ve finished the hike, look 

around for an extremely long slide 

that’s been set up in the town of Yokoze, 

just for fun: tinyurl.com/murayamahike 

Skateboarding 

With skateboarding possibly being included in the Tokyo 2020 

Olympics, and Japanese female skateboarder Kisa Nakamura 

winning a gold medal at the X Games Austin in June, the sport is 

a hot topic at the moment. We asked Nakamura to recommend her 

top skating spot in Tokyo and she said, without hesitation, Murasaki 

Park (tinyurl.com/TWmurasaki). Said to be the biggest indoor park 

in Kanto, this is a stomping ground for many up-and-coming skaters. 

Handrails, flat banks, ledges … It’s got plenty to keep you stoked and, if 

you’re feeling brave enough, a 14 ft vert ramp outside. For three more top 

spots, we asked Kev Mullin, a local skateboarder and founder of clothing 

label Strangers, to tell us where he gets his fix: 

MIYASHITA NIKE PARK 

“This downtown Shibuya skate park was designed by Bones Brigade legend 

Lance Mountain, and is a regular stop in for traveling pros. It has a unique bowl 

and purposely built real ‘street’ obstacles.” tinyurl.com/TWmiyashita-park 

KOMAZAWA SKATE PARK 

“Revamped in April 2016, this park is host to three mini ramps from beginner size up 

to ripper status. An adjacent street course and the surrounding greenery makes it a 

great locals’ hookup spot.” tinyurl.com/TWkomazawa-park 

TOBUKI SPORTS PARK (AKA PLANET PARK) 

“Although an hour bus ride from the Hachioji Station, this is a huge park consisting of a 

giant snake run on one side and a massive street course on the other. Ask any skater: it’s 

well worth the trip.” www.tobuki-sp.jp/english.html 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JUNE 2016 | 35

Words by Matthew Hernon 

Translation by Don Brown 

How did Naoki Matayoshi go from writing comedy 

sketches to a bestselling novel that’s been turned into 

a TV series by Netflix? We sat down with him to chat 

about his inspirations, and the success of “Hibana” 

An articulate, deepthinking 

individual 

who is known to 

read up to 10 books 

a week, Naoki Matayoshi 

doesn’t come across as your 

typical stand-up comic. The boke 

(air-headed) member of the manzai 

(a style of stand-up comedy) duo Peace, 

he’s been a notable and admired figure 

in the Japanese entertainment industry 

for years, and in 2015 became the 

first active comedian to win the 

illustrious Akutagawa Prize for 

rising authors following the release 

of his debut feature-length novel, 

“Hibana” (“Spark”). 

The story centers around a young 

entertainer named Tokunaga who’s 

struggling to get his big break in the 

manzai industry alongside comic 

partner Yamashita. He then has an 

encounter with the enigmatic comedian 

Kamiya who takes Tokunaga under his 

wing, teaching the apprentice his own 

philosophy of comedy. The pair embark 

on a journey together, before eventually 

following different paths. 

The compelling tale has proved a 

huge commercial hit. Last year it was 

Japan’s best-selling book and has just 

been launched in Taiwan. Since the 

beginning of June, a TV series based on 

the novel has been broadcast by Netflix 


in 190 countries and is currently available in 19 different languages. 

While official viewing figures are not yet available, early indications 

suggest they’ve been strong. With the “Hibana” success story showing 

no sign of abating, we decided to sit down with Matayoshi to hear 

more about it. 

WHICH AUTHORS WERE YOU INTERESTED IN GROWING UP, 

AND WHAT INSPIRATION DID YOU DRAW FROM THEM? 

I was properly introduced to modern Japanese literature at junior high 

school and became engrossed by the works of writers like Ryunosuke 

Akutagawa, Natsume Soseki and Dazai Osamu. I’m not going to sit here 

and pretend I’m capable of writing like them or would ever attempt 

to, but having read so much of their material, I can’t deny there’s been 

some influence. 

WHAT KIND OF INFLUENCE? 

I’ve always been taken in by the characters in their novels who had 

their own deep internal struggles and worries. I felt I had some kind of 

affinity with them – like they were speaking to me. I think perhaps the 

reason why many people wanted me to write a book was because 

I have that type of personality. 

WHEN YOU WERE APPROACHED TO WRITE A NOVEL, WHAT 

WAS YOUR REACTION? 

Why me? I’ve received a number of requests over the 

years, but I kept coming back to that same question. 

There are so many talented writers out there; what 

could I realistically offer that was different? I wrestled 

with the idea for a while and then found something I 

felt only I could write. I got an offer [from Bungeishunju] 

and decided to go for it. Once I’d made up my mind, 

it was quite liberating, yet at the same time scary. 

AFTER YOU DECIDED ON THE THEME, HOW 

DIFFICULT WAS IT TO TURN THAT INTO A 

FULL-LENGTH NOVEL? 

I write comedy sketches on a daily basis, and have 

composed numerous essays and short stories, but this 

was on another level. Using specific words to express 

the intricacies of human thought and introspection 

proved challenging. It took much more time than 

anything else I’d previously attempted. 

HOW LONG? 

Around three months. 

IT’S BEEN DESCRIBED AS SEMI-AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL. 

HOW SIMILAR ARE YOU AND TOKUNAGA? 

There are elements of myself in both Tokunaga and his senpai (mentor), 

Kamiya, who shares a lot of the same views of comedy with me. With 

the former, I deliberately decided to make his age and level of experience 

in the manzai world the same as mine, but it wasn’t just a case of 

writing about my own life through Tokunaga. His character is actually 

based on a combination of people I’ve met through the years and their 

experiences during that period [2000-2010]. Also, more than the manzai 

theme itself, what really interested me was the interaction between 

the principle characters, particularly the whole senpai/kohai paradigm 

and the way their relationship developed and then fell apart over time. 

The manzai universe was a unique and easily understandable place to 

explore these issues. 

WHAT DID YOUR OWN COMIC PARTNER, YUJI AYABE, MAKE 

OF THE BOOK? 

I think this was the first novel he’d ever read, certainly of that length 

anyway. With about 20 pages to go, he asked me when he’d be appearing 

in it. I don’t think he’s quite grasped the difference between fiction 

and non-fiction yet [laughs]. 

I’VE ALWAYS 

BEEN TAKEN BY 

CHARACTERS 

WHO HAVE 

DEEP INTERNAL 

STRUGGLES 

WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THE 

SUCCESS OF “HIBANA”? 

Of course I’ve been delighted with the reaction. It’s a story 

about young comedians who aren’t exactly flourishing, but they 

don’t give up in pursuit of their dream. I think there are many authors 

who are in a similar position of having the talent, but not getting 

the recognition. My real hope is that people who’ve read this book will 

use it as a window to explore more up-and-coming writers. Another 

thing I’m excited about is the fact that “Hibana” will be read by people 

overseas. It’s now in Taiwan and hopefully more countries will follow. 

It’d be great to help raise awareness of the Japanese comedy scene 

abroad and if some performers here could make it big internationally 

as a result of that, even better. 

THE AKUTAGAWA PRIZE CERTAINLY HELPED WITH SALES. 

WHAT WERE YOU DOING WHEN YOU FOUND OUT YOU’D 

WON? 

I was waiting in a hotel lobby with my manager and editor. I didn’t 

think I had a chance of winning but, as I’m on TV a lot, I knew that 

regardless of the result the press would want to interview me. I was 

conscious about not appearing sulky or downhearted and started racking 

my brain trying to come up with something funny to say to mask 

the disappointment. Then I heard the good news. It was unbelievable. 

WHAT ABOUT WHEN YOU WERE FIRST 

TOLD ABOUT THE TV DRAMA: WERE YOU 

CONCERNED IT WOULDN’T DO THE BOOK 

JUSTICE? 

Not really. Like everyone, I’ve read books and then 

been disappointed by the movie or TV adaption, but I 

think it’s important to remember they’re two different 

things. I’d be too afraid to make someone else’s story 

myself, but I felt at ease after speaking to the directors. 

They had a great understanding and sense of what the 

novel was about so I had confidence in them. 

WERE YOU GIVEN MUCH CREATIVE INPUT 

INTO THE MAKING OF IT? 

I wasn’t involved in the initial screenplay writing 

process, but as I mentioned I had faith in the directors 

so I didn’t need to be. They told me over dinner how 

much they liked the book and how important it was to 

preserve the world that it depicted. I told them about 

my poor upbringing and they ended up incorporating that into the 

story – something I didn’t do myself. The only thing I told them was if 

you’re going to do something drastic like kill someone off, let me know. 

Apart from that, do as you please. 

WHAT ARE YOUR GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE SHOW? 

I think it was brilliantly done. When manzai is portrayed on TV and 

in film, people will often say that something wasn’t quite right. I didn’t 

hear that at all this time. It was realistically made with some powerful 

performances. You could see the passion the directors and producers 

had for the project. They took small things I suggested in the book, 

but didn’t expand upon and painstakingly turned them into fullblown 

scenes. They were so protective of my work, I actually felt quite 

embarrassed. Don’t get me wrong, it’s fantastic as it is, I just wonder if 

they could’ve made something even better had they departed a little bit 

from my story. 

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HAVE IN STORE FOR YOU? 

I plan to write another book, which I hope to have finished by the 

end of this year. I’d also like to write, direct and perform a twohour 

comedy theater performance like the shin-kigeki (new 

comedy) I used to watch when I was young and living in 

Osaka. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for a while. 

I just feel I need to do it sooner rather than later.

Words by Matthew Hernon 

Translation by Honami Iizuka 

DAUGHTER OF A SUMO WRESTLER AND 

POSSIBLY JAPAN’S NEXT GREATEST 

FEMALE JUDO PRACTITIONER, AMI KONDO 

CARRIES THE WEIGHT OF EXPECTATIONS 

WITH GRACE AND PRIDE 

It was described by the 

Japanese media as a 

national disgrace. The 

country that had invented 

and for decades dominated 

the sport of judo was coming home 

from the 2012 London Olympics 

with just one gold medal: three 

fewer than in 2008 and seven 

fewer than in 2004. 

For the All Japan Judo 

Federation (AFFJ) – who’ve 

had to deal with far 

bigger problems since, 

including abuse and 

sexual harassment 

claims – the all-round 

performance in London was 

very disappointing. But as they 

prepare for Rio, there is good 

reason to feel positive. Japan 

amassed 13 golds in the last two 

world championships – eight more 

than closest rivals France – and the 

squad assembled for this summer’s 

Games looks very good on paper 

with 14 representatives who all 

have the potential to challenge 

for medals. 

The youngest member of the 

team is the exciting 21-year-old 

Ami Kondo. A world champion 

during her teens, she’ll be 

competing in the -48 kg category, 

the same weight division in which 

legendary figure Ryoko Tani won 

five medals. So with Rio just over a 

month away, is Kondo feeling any 

extra pressure as she prepares to 

follow in the footsteps of the lady 

widely regarded as greatest female 

judoka ever? Weekender recently 

met up with her at the Ajinomoto 

National Training Center in Tokyo 

to find out. 

“I don’t think it matters what 

weight class you’re in; there will 

always be high expectations placed 

on the shoulders of Japanese 

judoka because of our history,” 

she tells us. “Personally I think 

it’s a good thing. It gives you that 

motivation to get to the next level 

and to win a gold at the Olympics – 

which is of course my aim – that is 

what you need.” 

Soft-spoken and humble 

in demeanor, yet a warrior at 

heart, Kondo has been involved 

in various sports since she was 

old enough to walk. During her 

childhood she would do light 

physical training with her 100 kg 

sumo wrestler father on a daily 

basis. She also participated in 

a number of artistic gymnastic 

competitions, but then at the age 

of five switched her focus to judo. 

“It was the sport my brother 

was doing at the time and he 

won this gold medal that I really 

wanted,” she says. “He basically 

told me, ‘If you want it that badly, 

go and win your own,’ so that’s 

why I took up judo. However, I 

soon realized that getting the top 

prize isn’t so easy. I’d often finish 

runner-up and at one event I was 

so disappointed I locked myself in 

the bathroom rather than go

Highs and Lows 

to the award ceremony. I was eventually 

coaxed out just in time by my parents 

and coach.” 

Kondo may not have won every 

tournament she entered, but it was 

clear from a young age how talented she 

is. The Nagoya native began to realize 

her true potential after joining the 

renowned Oishi Dojo in her second year 

at elementary school. It was the same 

studio that two-time Olympic champion 

Ayumi Tanimoto attended. 

“Watching Tanimoto win 

[her second] gold medal 

in 2008 with a ripping 

uchi-mata attack was 

one of my first Olympic 

memories,” Kondo says. 

“There are lots of panels 

at the dojo showing that 

scene. It was a special 

moment from a true great 

who’s had big influence 

on my career.” 

Kondo is now 

aiming to create her 

own special scene in Rio 

so she can join Tanimoto 

on the wall. Her form 

over the past few years 

suggests she has a good 

chance. Since 2013 she 

has won a world title, a 

world junior title, three 

grand slams and earlier this year 

a World Masters. Despite achieving 

much of her success abroad, some 

have bizarrely suggested that she 

doesn’t travel well. The recent victory 

at the Masters in Mexico – where she 

defeated current Olympic champion 

Sarah Menezes in the final – was the 

perfect way to answer the critics. The 

performance even earned her praise 

from her notoriously hard-to-please 

coach Masae Ueno. 

ONE OF THE 

TOUGHEST 

THINGS FOR 

ME HAS BEEN 

GOING WITH- 

OUT WHITE 

RICE, WHICH I 

ABSOLUTELY 

LOVE 

“That was a pleasant surprise,” 

Kondo says, smiling. “Ueno-san never 

usually compliments me so to get a 

‘well done’ from her was a boost. She’s 

a real hard taskmaster. Even when I 

think I’ve given everything, she pushes 

me to go that extra mile. The toughlove 

approach has helped me a lot.” 

Ueno knows what it takes to win at 

the Olympics. Competing in the -70 kg 

division, she claimed two golds at the 

2004 and 2008 Games. The 37-yearold 

brought the medals 

in to training to show 

Kondo and now the 

young pupil is aiming to 

win one for herself. It 

certainly won’t be easy. 

The -48 kg category could 

be one of the most closely 

contested competitions 

in Rio. Names to look out 

for include home favorite 

Sarah Menezes, current 

world title holder Paula 

Pareto, Korea’s Jeong Bo 

Kyeong, and Mönkhbatyn 

Urantsetseg from Mongolia. 

All of them, though, 

will be wary of the threat 

that Kondo poses. 

“This will be 

my first Olympics so of 

course there’s going to be 

nerves, particularly in the preliminary 

rounds,” she says. “I just hope I can 

do myself justice. Getting this far 

required hard work and sacrifice. 

One of the toughest things for me has 

been going without white rice, which 

I absolutely love. It’s obviously really 

important to stay under 48 kg so I 

have to weigh everything I eat. It can 

be a bit tiresome, but it’ll certainly be 

worth it if I do manage to get that gold 

medal around my neck.” 

Founded in the late 19th century by Japanese 

polymath Kano Jigoro, judo was 

originally created as a physical, moral 

and mental pedagogy. It evolved into a 

combat sport and debuted at the 1964 

Games in Tokyo. Women judoka did not officially 

start competing until 1992. 

Unsurprisingly, Japan has led the way in the 

medal table with 70 in total (34 golds). One of the 

most sensational victories came in 1984 when Yasuhiro 

Yamashita, on his way to a 203-bout winning 

streak, took home the gold. He missed out four 

years earlier because Japan boycotted the Moscow 

Games, and his hopes in LA seemed to have been 

dashed when he tore his calf muscle. Still, he 

reached the final – and won – despite Laurent Del 

Colombo attacking his injury in the semis. Japan’s 

most successful Olympic judoka is Tadahiro Nomura 

who won three golds in a row between 1996 and 

2004. In the women’s event, Ryoko Tani is the most 

decorated Olympian. She made the podium five 

times in succession, winning two golds. 

The 2012 Games proved to be Japan’s worst 

in the sport with only Kaori Matsumoto (57 kg) 

emerging victorious. She’ll be in Rio to defend her 

title alongside Ami Kondo and 12 other judoka. 

Know the 

Throws 

There are any many types of 技 (waza, techniques) 

in judo, including 67 投げ技 (nage-waza, throwing 

techniques). At the 2012 Olympics 内股 (uchi-mata, 

an inner-thigh throw) was the top scoring technique 

for women, while for the men it was the 双手背 

負投 (morote-seoi-nage, two-handed shoulder 

throw). Ami Kondo’s favorite is the 払腰 (harai-goshi, 

sweeping hip throw). If an 一本 (ippon, one point) is 

scored, the match is over. Two 技あり (waza-ari, half 

points) can also decide the contest.

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BE INSPIRED 

From a world graffiti art exhibition featuring Banksy to three recommended 

series that you should be streaming on Netflix Japan, our July Guide is packed 

with plenty of art, TV, and summer festivities. 


© MADSAKI with courtesy of CLEAR EDITION & GALLERY 

WANNABIE’S COLLECTION BY 

MADSAKI 

ART & TV 

A mercurial artist who has worked 

in everything from sculpture to 

fashion collaborations and a book 

that endeavors to teach Japanese 

readers how to properly use the 

most common English curse words, 

MADSAKI is also known for taking a 

savagely irreverent approach to much 

of what the art world holds sacred. 

Recreating many of the classic works 

with spray-painted lines and childlike 

faces, his “Wannabie’s Collection” is a 

tongue-in-cheek romp through Western 

art history. As Taku Sato, head 

of Clear Edition & Gallery explains, 

“Through his works MADSAKI challenges 

and stirs the stereotype values 

of various systems we encounter in 

daily life.“ 

Clear Edition & Gallery Until July 16, 

www.clearedition.jp 

THE ART WORLD 

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS 

Compiled by Alec Jordan 

2016 WORLD GRAFFITI 

ARTS EXHIBITION IN DAIBA 

FEATURING BANKSY 

Graffiti artists use public spaces as their 

canvas, and in doing so reach a larger audience 

than they’d be able to assemble in 

almost any gallery. Creators who employ 

the form to make larger social arguments 

use shocking imagery to grab our attention, 

and the most provocative of them 

manage to make us laugh – nervously. 

This collection takes the pieces off the 

building walls and behind glass, allowing 

you to see works by the enigmatic Banksy, 

his alter ego Mr. Brainwash, Shepard 

Fairey, D*FACE, and others. 

Gallery 21 Until July 18, 

www.gallery21-daiba.com 

BANKSY / BOMB HUGGER 

BANKSY / MONKEY QUEEN 


Untitled, from the series of “The river embraced me”, 2016 ©Rinko Kawauchi 

TV 

Wondering what to watch on 

Netflix Japan? Here are three top 

local shows 

© 2016YD Creation 

HIBANA (SPARK) 

THE RAIN OF BLESSING: RINKO KAWAUCHI 

Rinko Kawauchi has captivated photography fans around the world with a body of 

work that captures daily life in luminous detail. She shoots almost exclusively with 

medium format cameras, and her outsize prints invite viewers to immerse themselves 

in her scenes. A long-time recreational swimmer, Kawauchi describes her 

photographic process as “not dissimilar to grasping an object blindly under water, 

bringing it on land into the sunshine, and seeing for the first time, as it reflects the 

light, what it really looks like.” Gallery 916 Until September 25, gallery916.com 

Based on the eponymous novel by Naoki Matayoshi 

(read our interview on page 36), this is 

Netflix’s first original Japanese drama to stream 

in 190 countries. It launched last month with 19 

subtitles including English, and follows the lives 

of two struggling comedians who meet and fall 

into a mentor-apprentice relationship, sharing 

their thoughts on the meaning of life and love. 

© 2016 Yaro Abe, Shogakukan/Drama Shinyashokudo 

Production Committee 

HARUKI MURAKAMI AND ILLUSTRATORS – MAKI SASAKI, 

AYUMI OHASHI, MAKOTO WADA AND MIZUMARU ANZAI 

This exhibit gives fans of Japan’s best known living writer a chance to view his 

work from another perspective. Includes 178 pieces that depict Murakami’s 

collaborations with four illustrators – from illustrations for the covers of his 

first three novels to pictures that accompany his more recent essays and 

articles. Chihiro Art Museum Tokyo Until August 7, www.chihiro.jp/ 

tokyo/museum 

Makoto Wada, “Jimmy Rushing” from Portrait in Jazz 2 (SHINCHOSHA Publishing Co., Ltd.), 1999, Private Collection 

SHINYA SHOKUDO (MIDNIGHT DINER) 

Set to begin streaming on October 21, this new 

original series is based on the manga by Yaro 

Abe, which has sold more than five million 

cumulative copies in Japan, and was made into 

a movie in 2015. It’s set in a small back-alley eatery 

where customers’ life stories unfold as they 

sit down to savor pork miso soup and sake. 

© Fuji Television/East Entertainment 

TERRACE HOUSE BOYS & GIRLS 

IN THE CITY 

Currently streaming on Netflix, this reality show 

sees a group of six young men and women 

living together. It may not sound like an original 

plot as far as reality TV goes, but if you’re at all 

interested in comparing Japanese culture with 

that of the rest of the world, this is a fascinating 

place to start. 


1 

3 

2 

4 

6 

7 

8 

5 

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN JULY 

1 

JUL 16-17 

2 

JUL 23-24 

3 

JUL 30 

4 

JUL 30 

BRAZILIAN DAY 

JAPAN 

Celebrate all things 

tropical at one of the Tokyo 

Brazilian immigrant community’s 

most important cultural gatherings 

of the year. 

Where: Yoyogi Park, Shibuya 

How much: Free 

More info: tokyoweekender.com 

HANDMADE IN 

JAPAN FES 2016 

Over the span of two 

days, more than 4,000 creative 

souls will be exhibiting and selling a 

dazzling array of handmade goods. 

Where: Tokyo Big Sight 

How much: Starts at ¥1,200 

More info: hmj-fes.jp 

SHINJUKU EISA 

FESTIVAL 

Traditionally held to 

honor ancestral spirits with a series 

of dances and music parades, the 

event also features clowns and 

fire dancers. 

Where: Around Shinjuku 



SUMIDA RIVER 

MATSURI 

Brave the crowds for 

Tokyo’s largest fireworks, food, and 

all-around-good-feelings festival, which 

draws more than a million people yearly. 

Where: Sumida River, multiple sites 



5 

JUL 9-10 

6 

JUL 6-11 

7 

JUL 15 

8 

JUL 9-10 

AFRICA HIBIYA 

FESTIVAL 

Explore the entire 

African continent and its many 

cultures at a single park in 

downtown Tokyo. Booths, dances, 

workshops, and more await. 

Where: Hibiya Park 



SHITAMACHI 

TANABATA 

FESTIVAL 

Booths, parades, performances, 

and an array of colorful streamers 

around Asakusa’s temples and 

shrines help celebrate Tanabata, 

the holiday for star-crossed lovers. 

Where: Around Asakusa 



CHIYODA NORYO 

NO YUBE 

Nearly a thousand lanterns 

will be placed in the Imperial Palace 

moat, and lucky ticket holders 

will be able to boat around the 

illuminated river. 

Where: The Imperial Palace 



NIPPON CRAFT 

BEER FESTIVAL 

Learn all about craft beer 

culture, with plenty of taste testing 

along the way. Limited entry: only 150 

people per ticket type. 

Where: Kamakura beach and city 

How much: ¥3,900-¥4,500 

More info: craftbeerfestival.org 



American-born Irish dancer Courtney and Irish Ambassador Anne 

Barrington at the Ireland National Day Party at the Okura 

Muhammad Ali, Linda Yamamoto, Bill, model, and 

June Adams at the Nile Hilton in Cairo, 1964 

Tokyo’s Longest Running 

Society Page with Bill Hersey 

By the time you read this, we hope the rainy season has 

come and gone, but with the changing weather patterns 

all over the world, one never knows. If you’ve lived here 

any length of time, you know July, August and much of 

September can really be hot and humid. Even so, with a 

full schedule of culture and food festivals at Yoyogi Park, several major 

pop music festivals, classical concerts, sports events, beach and boat 

parties, and hopefully holiday getaways, it’s going to be a busy summer. 

Seijoro Udo and his staff at Udo Artists are celebrating the company’s 

50th year of bringing top international music to Japan, including 

Eric Clapton, Duran Duran, Bruce Springsteen, and The Eagles. They’re 

bringing one of my favorite singers, Sarah Brightman, in for concerts 

at the Budokan on July 11 and 12. Top showbiz agency Kyodo Tokyo is 

also bringing “Blast” here again this summer. The show won all kinds 

of awards on Broadway, and has been here many times and is always 

sold out. It will be at the Tokyo Forum from August 23 to September 6. 

I had the privilege of going with a small group of journalists to the Park 

Hyatt Hotel’s 41st floor on May 10 for a superb French dinner prepared 

by Park Hyatt Sydney’s executive chef Franck Detrait. Just heard from 

the Park Hyatt Tokyo’s Kathy Konno Knowles about the hotel’s many 

summer events, and they all look very special. 

DERMOZONE/STEVEN HAYNES’ MISS SUPRANATIONAL 

BEAUTY PAGEANT 

Talk about a great day with beautiful people! Being asked to be a judge 

in Dermazone and Steven Haynes’ Miss Supranational Japan 2016 beauty 

pageant was all that and more. It started on a train with my assistant, 

model/actor Hide Kusakari (who was also cameraman that day) to Omiya 

City’s Sonic City Hall where the contest took place. I really enjoyed 

the train ride (don’t do that much), liked Omiya, and was very impressed 

with the Palace Hotel and show venue. I was also very impressed with 

the other judges. They included Miss Universe Japan 2008, Hiroko Mima; 

Makoto Hayashi; Ebisu Beauty Clinic director Yoshiaki Horie; and Lycee 

Glamorous director Yukako Ono. 

The fast-paced, entertaining show opened with a lively performance 

by a professional Awa Odori group. This was followed by an introduction 

of the 21 contestants who were each wearing a traditional costume from 

their own prefecture. Next on the program was the making of a huge and 

beautiful ikebana arrangement with live harmonica music in the background. 

After this truly artistic presentation, the contestants modeled a 

range of swimwear. This was followed by a short story by a traditional 

Japanese storyteller after which the contestants came out again in beautiful 

evening gowns. The winner was Lisa Nagashima from Yamagata-ken. Steve 

crowned Lisa, and Dermozone Indonesia’s founder and CEO Kayapan Satya 

Dharshan made a congratulatory speech. I couldn’t stay for the after party 

at a nearby British pub, but I did get to know Lisa better over coffee with 

her, Steve, and Italian artist Matteo Ceccarini at Shibuya Segafredo. She’s 

a really nice person, a great model, and a talented artist. She’s off to Poland 

soon for the final Miss Supranatural Pageant in Warsaw. Good luck Lisa. 

ARAB WEEK RECEPTION – IMPERIAL HOTEL 

I’d like to start by apologizing for having forgotten to wish my Muslim 

friends the best for Ramadan, which started on June 6. This very special 

time ends on July 5 this year, and I hope it was a good one for all my 

friends. On behalf of the celebration of Arab-Japanese friendship and the 

Council of Arab Ambassadors and Heads of Missions in Japan, Waleed Siam, 

the Dean of the Arab Diplomatic Corps, hosted a very special reception at 

the Imperial Hotel on April 4. 

As expected, it was wall-to-wall VIPs. The program included a welcome 

speech by Waleed and another by Prime Minister Shinzo Abe that pretty 


Satya Dharshan with judges Yukako Ono and Hiroko Mima 

Show producer Steven Haynes with winner Lisa Nagashima (Yamagata), first runner-up Yuki Sonoda (Kagoshima, left) and 

second runner-up Mira Shimizu (Gunma, right) 

Judges Yoshiaki Horie and Makoto Hayashi 

Steven Haynes 

Supranational 

Beauty Pageant 

Naz and Ishanaz Bahar 

Rie Yoshida (Chiba), actor/model Hide Kusakari 

Bosnia and Herzegovina Amb. Anesa Kundurovic, Min-on 

Pres. H. Kobayashi, Tongan Amb.Tania Tupou 

Waleed Siam, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe 

Ibit Sam Masr (Palestine), Dewi Sukarno, Amir Siam, his 

mother Maali 

Arab Week Gala – 

Imperial Hotel 

Emile Yamano, Italian Amb. Domenico Giorgi, Emile’s 

daughter Nina 

Cinema Italiano 

2016 

Rita Giorgi, Alan Daniel Taylor, artist Matteo Ceccarini 

Rita and Domenico with Italian star Claudia Santamaria 

Rita and Cinecitta’s Monique Catalino 


Norman Tolman with Amanda Fleming (left) and Jerri 

Donovan (right) 

Conrad Hilton’s GM Heinrich Grafe with Daniel Kelly 

Tolman Daniel 

Kelly Exhibit 

IBM Pres. Paul/Onamine, Simul TV’s CEO Steven Turner 

Dejeans Bid 

Sayonara 

Hisanaga and Takako Shimazu (sister of the Emperor) and 

Grand Hyatt GM Steve Dewire 

Outgoing Argentine Amb. Raul Dejean, his wife Teresa, 

their daughter Mariaeles 

Amb. Dejean and politician Nishimura-san 

Panama Ambassador 

Reception 

Panama Amb. Ritter N. Diaz, his wife Ayana, Panama 

President Juan-Carlos Varela Rodriguez, and his wife Lorena 

In & Around 

Park Hyatt PR’s Kathy Konno Knowles, Park Hyatt Tokyo 

exec. chef Thomas Angerer, Park Hyatt Sydney exec. chef 

Franck Detrait 

Cuban Amb. Marcos Rodriguez Costa, his wife Rosa, 

Mexico Amb. Carlos Fernando Almada, his wife Maria, 

Dewi, Chile Amb. Patricio Torres, his wife Cecelia 

Kyoko Spector, Dewi Sukarno, Global Dining Pres. Kozo Hasegawa 

Haitian Amb. Judith Exavier, Bosnia and Herzegovina Amb. 

Anesa Kundurovic 


much chronicled his visits to many Arab countries. It was a very impressive 

opening where all the hosting Heads of Missions went on stage and 

posed for photos in front of the 20 colorful and distinctive flags on display. 

The wives of the Arab Ambassadors, in their beautiful dresses and 

jewelry, were particularly lovely. The bountiful buffet that evening was 

superb, with each of the 20 countries involved preparing and presenting 

home-made specialties. Kudos to the many who put so much time and 

effort into making the evening the special occasion it was. 

PANAMA PRESIDENT’S VISIT A BIG SUCCESS 

Panama’s popular and personable first couple, President Juan Carlos 

Varela and his wife Lorena, and their delegation were in Japan for four 

days on an official visit recently. Even with a full schedule of meetings 

with government and business leaders here, they took time to attend and 

enjoy a huge reception that Panamanian Ambassador Ritter and his wife 

Ayana hosted in their honor at the Yamabuki room in the Palace Hotel. 

For the glittering reception, both the President’s and Ambassador’s wives 

wore traditional kimono, and as you can see by the photos, they looked 

great. Once the formalities were over, the reception was very lively and 

Latin. There was Panamanian music by a Cuban band, and the President 

moved around the crowded room talking with and having his photo 

taken with many of the guests. Thanks to Ambassador Ritter, I had the 

opportunity to meet and talk with him. 

I’ve never been to Panama, but did date a Panamanian girl, Elsita, 

when I was attending an international seminar in Sedona, Arizona. When 

the two-month seminar was over, she stayed at my parents’ home in Phoenix 

for several months before returning home. She was a real live wire 

and we had some great times in Phoenix. Those were the days, my friends. 

SAYONARA RAUL AND TERESA 

Looking back, I often feel like the only thing I really regret about writing 

this column is seeing so many good people – good friends! – come and go. 

This is especially true with diplomats, whose average posting is three to 

four years. I don’t know why, but it seems like so many have left in the 

last few months, or are leaving soon. These include the popular Argentine 

Ambassador Raul Dejean and his super wife Teresa, after five years 

and five months. Raul and Teresa will return to Buenos Aires where, after 

retirement, Raul will work in the private sector. Their lovely daughter 

Mariameles has work here and will stay on. We wish the Dejeans all the 

best back home, and welcome the new Ambassador, Alan Beraud. 

Raul and Teresa were very popular and their home was wall-to-wall with 

interesting people for the party. I hadn’t seen good friend Fumiko Tottori, 

the mother of Princess Takamado, for quite some time, so I really enjoyed 

talking with that special lady. Also enjoyed talking to the embassy’s executive 

chef Penelope Barboza. She’s really good at what she does, as the 

bountiful buffet of many Argentine favorites went to show. 

ITALIAN CINEMA FESTIVAL RECEPTION 

Italian Ambassador Domenico Giorgi and his wife Rita hosted 

another great event at their beautiful home in Mita. The 

occasion was to celebrate the Festival del Cinema Italiano 

2016, Tokyo. It was an interesting gathering of the Giorgis’ 

friends that included well-known people in the arts, fashion, show business, 

and of course film world. These included one-time fashion model 

and now Italian fashion sales executive Emile Yamano. Years ago I had 

a boutique called “Le Bazaar” on Aoyama Dori with Emile and my dear 

brother Chris. Hadn’t seen Emile for years and it was really nice chatting 

with him and his daughter, Lena. Also nice seeing Italian artist Matteo 

Ceccarini. He’s been here for six years and has a studio in Tokyo. He 

showed me some photos of a few of his works and I found his portrait of 

104-year-old doctor Hinohara fascinating. It was also interesting talking 

with Italian film star Claudio Santamaria, who’s very popular on the 

European film scene. 

TOLMAN EXHIBITION – CONRAD HILTON 

Several months ago, the Tolman Collection gallery got together with 

the GM of Conrad Hilton, Heinrich Grafe, and they cooperated on an 

exhibition of the work of 103-year-old artist Toko Shinoda at the prestigious 

hotel. It was a huge success, so they decided to do the same with 

another of Tolman’s famous artists, Daniel Kelly. Daniel’s work is well 

known, and many of his friends and fans turned out for the opening 

party for the exhibit. 

It was a casual evening with some really interesting people. The 

program included an introduction of the artist, a traditional Japanese 

dance by Daniel’s friend Tomomi, and a delicious gourmet buffet. I was 

able to take a visiting friend from the US: Steven Turner, who’s CEO of 

Simul TV Interconnect Media. 

Norman Tolman just never slows down. His current project is a tieup 

with the Nagoya Post Office where they’ve issued 10 postage stamps 

featuring different pictures of Toko Shinoda. The exhibition will run at 

Kitte Nagoya from July 15 to July 31. The collection will also be available 

at the Tolman Collection gallery (tel: 03 3434 1300). I’m sure it will be a 

real collector’s treasure. 

GREAT MEMORIES OF “THE GREATEST” 

Sorry to end this column on a sad note for so many. I know it’s a part of 

life, and I have lost a lot of friends recently. That’s what they say as one 

gets older. Muhammad Ali had been sick a long time with Parkinson’s 

disease, but I was still shocked when he passed away a few weeks ago. 

Looking back, I was able to find some photos I had the privilege of taking 

with Ali in Cairo where I first met and got to spend some time with 

him many years ago. I was in Egypt with a cameraman and three models 

where I was directing the shooting of a series of fashion photos for 

both men’s and women’s magazines here. The models were pop singer 

Linda Yamamoto, American-Japanese model June Adams and – sorry – 

I can’t find the name of the third. We were shooting by the Nile River 

when a couple of people, including Ali, came over to watch. Of course 

I recognized the world famous boxer, and introduced myself. He was 

super nice, and made me feel as though I had been his friend for years. 

He was also obviously impressed by June’s beauty as, for two days, 

he showed up wherever we were shooting around the hotel. 

Believe me – all the good things you’ve heard and read 

about him were true. He was really an easygoing, easyto-admire, 

easy-to-like man. 

With Kathy Kriger at The Oak Door 

Tina Bingham and Alastair Prentice at 

Hiroo Segafredo 

Dan Kerrigan, Mioko and beautiful little 

Abigail 


BACK IN THE DAY: 1982 

Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1982! You can read the rest of this 

issue (No.26 1982) and view Weekender’s 46-year archive online. 

www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/

Tokyo Weekender July 2016

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