Tokyo Weekender November 2016

NOVEMBER 2016 

Japan’s number one English language magazine 

THE LIGHT AND DARK OF 

CREATIVITY 

+ RISING STARS FROM FASHION WEEK, DESIGN FESTA, AND MORE 

+ CAPTURING THE ART OF BONSAI 

+ WHERE DO ALL THE BALLERINAS GO? 

+ THE UNDERBELLY OF JAPAN’S ENTERTAINMENT BIZ 

PLUS: What to Do in Jimbocho, Why You Should Switch to Charcoal Soap, and Fall Foliage Travel Tips

30 

22 20 44 

radar 

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS 

8 AREA GUIDE: JIMBOCHO 

Still a literary haven, this neighborhood is 

also a mecca for snowboarders, musicians, 

and foodies. 

10 STYLE 

November is the month for choosing coats 

and boots, and we’ve found just what you 

need. 

12 BEAUTY 

Why should you switch to charcoal soap? 

This Japanese beauty secret is oh-so-good 

for your skin – plus, it just looks super hip. 

14 TRENDS 

As if showing you around Jimbocho wasn’t 

enough, we’ve also rounded up some unique 

bookstores for die-hard paper sniffers. 

in-depth 

COFFEE-BREAK READS 

19 FRESH FROM FASHION WEEK 

Six rising stars that caught our attention at 

Tokyo Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017. 

22 FIVE TOKYO CREATIVES TO WATCH 

As we look forward to Design Festa, we 

celebrate our city’s up-and-coming talents. 

26 WHERE DO ALL THE BALLERINAS GO? 

Japan is producing more world-class ballerinas 

than ever, but why are they all leaving? 

29 MEET THE FAIRY SKULL MAKER 

We chat to Shinji Nakaba about his 

“modern vanitas” jewelry designs. 

30 PORTRAITS OF SLOW GROWTH 

How one American photographer was 

inspired by the grace of bonsai trees. 

34 TORMENTED TALENTS 

We investigate the dark side of Japan’s 

entertainment industry. 

guide 

CULTURE ROUNDUP 

39 THE ART WORLD 

Travel through time, trot alongside Japan’s 

native horse breeds, and gaze at ceramics. 

42 AGENDA 

Street dance in Shibuya, an underground 

mystery hunt, and a world of ramen flavors. 

44 TRAVEL: FALL FLING 

Four spectacular spots for autumn splendor, 

and where to stay overnight. 

46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES 

A Jin Akanashi concert, National Day celebrations, 

and the Miss Supranational Pageant. 


TOKYO WEEKENDER | NOVEMBER 2016 | 3


Publisher 

President 

Executive Producers 

Editor in Chief 

Senior Editor 

Art Director 

Features Writer 

Contributors 

Sales Director 

Sales Executives 

Media Strategist 

Media Consultant 

Media Relations 

Media Producers 

ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

Takanobu Ushiyama 

Asi Rinestine 

Naoya Takahashi 

Annemarie Luck 

Alec Jordan 

Liam Ramshaw 

Matthew Hernon 

Vivian Morelli 

Luca Eandi 

Bill Hersey 

Dorothee Erle 

Bunny Bissoux 

Takaaki Murai 

Hirofumi Ohuchi 

Kahori Terakawa 

Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa 

Yu Suzuki 

Mandy Lynn 

Mary Rudow 

Junko Shimaya 

Yumi Idomoto 

Claudia Sun 

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 

Published monthly at JPR Sendagaya Building 8F 

4-23-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0051 

(03) 6863-3096 / (03) 5413-3050 (fax) 

editor@tokyoweekender.com 

To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call 

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customer-support@tokyoweekender.com 

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sales@tokyoweekender.com 

広告に関するお問い合わせ先 

電話 :(03)6863-3096 

メール:sales@tokyoweekender.com 

Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors 

are not necessarily those of the publisher 

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. 

4 | NOVEMBER 2016 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

@bapawn: So, Annemarie, I understand that you saw 

a lot of Tokyo Fashion Week this year? 

@mizrama: Yes, quite a bit. You know, Tokyo is still 

lagging behind other fashion weeks in terms of big 

names, but on the flipside, this makes it a good place 

to discover new talent. One of these being the brand 

on our cover, Leonard Wong. His show was a real 

performance. 

@bapawn: What was it that impressed you about the 

show? 

and that certainly works well for us. Although we 

have a few stories this month that show the positive 

aspects of the creative life, we aren’t afraid to walk 

amidst the shadows. 

@mizrama: Absolutely, I think it’s essential to walk 

in the shadows sometimes. Not only because it can 

feed creativity – as jewelry designer Shinji Nakaba 

expressed [page 29] – but because it also allows one 

to appreciate the lightness of being. I think artists of 

all kinds are continuously having to balance dark and 

light. 

@mizrama: You could just tell he’s already thinking 

big. His show opened with this futuristic performance 

by AyaBambi, the Japanese dance couple who’ve been 

causing a bit of a sensation lately themselves. I think 

Wong is quite an ideal intro to this month’s ode to 

creativity. 

@bapawn: I like that he shows both sides of that 

creative energy – he certainly isn’t afraid to go dark, 

@bapawn: That visual balance was something 

that fascinated me about Stephen Voss’s bonsai 

photographs [page 30], but it also makes me think 

about your charcoal soap [page 12]. How does it 

balance the dark and the light? 

@mizrama: Ah, quite literally – turns out this “sooty” 

ingredient is another Japanese secret to brighter skin. 

Black is the new black, and not just in fashion. 

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WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... 

Create your very own unique cocktail at Andaz Tokyo, rediscover your 

love of reading (books), and find out why black soap is better. 

8 AREA GUIDE 10 STYLE 14 TRENDS 

TOKYO WEEKENDER | | NOVEMBER 2016 | 7

AREA GUIDE 

BOOK TIME IN JIMBOCHO 

ONCE A LITERARY HAVEN FOR INTELLECTUALS AND 

SCHOLARS, JIMBOCHO STILL HONORS ITS CULTURED 

HERITAGE BY SERVING AS TOKYO’S “BOOK TOWN” 

Words and photographs by Luca Eandi 

TURN THE PAGE 

Centrally located between several universities, 

including Meiji, Nihon and Senshu, 

Jimbocho is home to over 150 bookstores, 

most of which deal in used texts. National 

chain Sanseido has its flagship store here, 

which spreads over several floors. Toyodo 

is another popular spot, offering new 

books and a comfortable place to open a 

laptop and work while people-watching 

out the large windows. Isseido, founded 

in 1903, has survived earthquakes, fires 

and WWII bombings, so it has more than 

earned its enviable collection of vintage 

prints and rare books. Bohemian’s Guild 

offers an impressive selection of art books, 

while Nanyodo is the go-to for design and 

architecture books. Charming Magnif 

Zinebocho sells vintage American fashion 

magazines and Western pulp. 

STRUM AND DRUM 

Nearby Ochanomizu may be known as 

Tokyo’s nucleus for musical instrument 

stores, but quite a few shops bleed over 

into the Jimbocho area as well. Kurosawa 

Music on Yasukuni-dori is one of the 

biggest dealers of new, used and vintage 

musical gear in Japan, and the wall of 

Gibson Les Pauls that greets you at the 

door of their Jimbocho store lets you know 

they mean business. There’s also a host of 

smaller shops specializing in woodwind 

and brass instruments, violins, vintage 

synthesizers and keyboards. As an added 

bonus, the area is home to several music 

instruction schools as well as practice 

spaces for the budding rock star waiting 

to be unleashed. 


HIT THE SLOPES 

There’s not a single notable hill in Jimbocho, so it’s sort of ironic that it has the highest 

concentration of ski and snowboard stores in Tokyo, with something like 35 shops dealing in 

winter sports gear. But stiff competition translates to good deals, and there’s really no better 

place to go if you’re looking for a board or the latest in snow apparel tech. Some of the most 

recommended stores include Victoria, which has several locations specializing in wardrobe 

and gear, Himaraya for its wide selection of brands, and Nippin for its knowledgeable staff. 

Most of the stores also carry last season’s lines, if you’re looking to save some money and 

don’t mind being silently mocked by snobs on the slopes. 

LOSING A STAR 

Jimbocho’s food scene was dealt a 

blow when it was announced that 

Michelin Star-holding restaurant 

Den will close on November 

27 and relocate to Gaienmae. 

Zaiyu Hasegawa’s much-lauded 

establishment offers an incredibly 

intricate and playful menu and it 

will be sorely missed. However, 

there’s still some time left to book a 

reservation before it makes the move, 

and luckily there are other culinary 

gems in Jimbocho. For curry, hit up 

Kitchen Nankai, Kyoeido or Bondy. 

Tonkotsu fans love the fatty broth 

and thick noodles at Ramen Jiro, 

while Maruka has some of the best 

Kagawa-style udon around. Finally, 

Suito Pozu has been slinging gyoza 

since before WWII and there’s a good 

reason they’ve stuck around that long. 

GET IT PERCOLATING 

For coffee sipping while book browsing, 

Toyodo’s Paper Press Café pours refills on 

their ¥200 cup, so you can settle in for a good 

long while. Otherwise, Jimbocho hosts many 

more traditional cafés. Saboru looks like a 

fancy treehouse, and in addition to tasty coffee 

drinks, they serve breakfast until 11am. Kanda 

Brazil is a classic neighborhood café that is 

still roasting strong. Milonga Nueva has been 

around since the 50s and spins a wide selection 

of Argentinian tango records. Glitch is definitely 

the hippest and newest coffee house, with its 

bright interior, wooden counters and flavorful 

in-house-roasted pour-overs. If tea is more your 

speed, Tea House Takano was one of the first 

shops in Tokyo to import English black teas. 


STYLE 

CHLOÉ ANKLE BOOTS 

Now that you’ve stored the sandals away, it’s time to say hello to winterappropriate 

footwear. Chloé is back with a new spin on its iconic and 

best-selling Susanna boots, and this pair combines not one but two of this 

season’s trends: opulent velvet and saturated jewel tones. The merlot-hued 

boots are embellished with gold studs and buckled straps, and they come 

with a low heel, meaning they’re comfortable enough for walking all around 

the city and navigating the subway system. chloe.com 

FROM A WATERPROOF WATCH TO A STORM-FLAP-SPORTING 

TRENCH, THIS MONTH’S STYLE GUIDE HELPS YOU BRACE 

YOURSELF FOR WINTER 

THEORY COAT 

Save the puffy, down-filled jackets for outdoor 

activities and particularly cold days, and instead 

wrap yourself in this luxurious coat, made of 

brushed wool and cashmere. The design is a 

twist on the classic trench coat, complete with 

epaulette shoulders, storm flaps and a waistcinching 

belt. The brushed wool adds softness, 

and the light grey color makes it easy to match 

with most of your wardrobe. theory.com

VALENTINO 

SWEATER 

With November bringing colder 

weather, it’s finally time to layer 

up, and this cozy sweater will do 

the job. The hunt for the perfect 

sweater can be a difficult one, 

but it’s worth investing in natural 

fibers like wool or cashmere for 

comfort and long-lasting quality. 

This number from Valentino blends 

wool and mohair for a soft, fluffy 

feel. We like the beige (almost 

blush) hue of this piece, combined 

with metallic stripes for a fun 

touch. The ribbed trims give it a 

more fitted silhouette; pair it with 

jeans for a daily look that is both 

elegant and snug. 

valentino.com 

TOM FORD BLAZER 

A little trivia: this O’Connor slim fit blazer 

was actually designed specifically for 

Daniel Craig in his role as James Bond, 

and you can see different variations in the 

most recent installment, “Spectre.” If the 

James Bond aspect of this signature Tom 

Ford creation isn’t enough incentive to 

buy it, perhaps the fine cashmere finish 

and the luxurious silk lining the sleeves 

will convince you. The price tag may be 

on the hefty side, but we promise you the 

compliments will almost make up for it. 

tomford.com 

NIKE SNEAKERS 

Thanks to the “athleisure” trend, sneakers 

are now acceptable to wear on a daily basis 

and are no longer solely reserved for sports. 

We like this lightweight pair of Air Zoom 

sneakes from Nike, with a simple dégradé 

color scheme. Zoom Air units are placed in 

the heel and forefoot for a responsive step, 

and the mesh uppers provide ventilation. 

Pair them with your running clothes for a 

brisk jog, or wear them with fitted jeans and 

a shirt for your daily activities. 

nike.com 

SUUNTO WATCH 

Founded by championship orienteer Tuomas Vohlonen in 1936, 

Suunto continues to craft premium timepieces over 80 years 

later. Suunto watches are known for being robust, accurate and 

innovative, and are designed to optimize athletic performance. If 

you’re keen on a sports watch that isn’t too “sporty” looking, this 

model may be it. It combines bronze-colored steel and a leather 

wristband, and it is waterproof for up to depths of 100m. The 

watch even comes with an explorer’s notebook, so you can record 

your intrepid adventures. suunto.jp

TRENDS 

TOP SHELVES 

AS DIGITAL AS OUR LIVES ARE, THERE’S STILL SOMETHING TO BE SAID ABOUT CURLING 

UP WITH THE PRINTED WORD. HERE ARE A FEW PLACES AROUND TOWN WHERE YOU CAN 

UNPLUG AND PICK UP ONE OF THOSE THINGS WHOSE PAGES CAN’T BE TURNED WITH A 

SWIPE ON THE SCREEN – WHAT WERE THEY CALLED AGAIN…? 

Compiled by Alec Jordan and Annemarie Luck 

KIRYUUSHA 

THE STORY After spending several years 

producing advertising materials for car 

manufacturers, Kennichi Kato left the rat 

race to spend a year traveling the world. 

When he returned he rented a small space 

in Shimokitazawa and built his bookstore/ 

café by hand. Kiryuusha opened in 2007. 

WHY WE LOVE IT It’s a tiny bookstore/café/meeting 

space that fits into a 

12-square-meter room. It’s the kind of place 

that could probably only exist in Japan, and 

it’s absolutely perfect for Shimokitazawa. 

If you’re interested in alternative lifestyles 

or just want to take a short trip out of the 

ordinary, this is the place. Finally, it’s the 

name: in Japanese, it’s “hut where the spirit 

flows.” Dig it? 

WHAT TO BUY We were tempted by “The 

Anarchist’s Cookbook,” but just sitting down 

to a cup of hot chai and listening to an event 

planning meeting by an association of local 

business owners was a pleasant enough way 

to while away an evening. 

Iida Heights, 5-29-17 Daizawa, Setagaya-ku. 

www.kiryuusha.com 


[ PROMOTION ] 

INFINITY BOOKS 

THE STORY Dominic Ward (Nick for short) co-owned the much-loved Caravan Books 

in Ikebukuro for many years. After closing that shop down, he was selling a great deal 

of his stock online, but felt the quixotic call of opening a store for used books in English 

(there’s also a small stock of texts in Spanish, German, and a few other languages) once 

again. 

WHY WE LOVE IT If the sheer fact that it’s one of the only bookstores of its 

kind in Tokyo weren’t enough, the regular music events series that Infinity runs is 

also something to cheer about. Finally, if you’ve been going into “Game of Thrones” 

withdrawal, Nick’s Yorkshire accent will have you briefly back in Westeros over the 

course of a chat. 

WHAT TO BUY Everything on stock, from Japanese textbooks to fiction – literary or 

mildly trashy – but Nick says that the New Age/spirituality books are some the store’s best 

sellers. Could it be that the gaijin experience awakens a hunger to seek life’s 

deeper meaning? 

Komakata Heights, 1-2-4 Azumabashi, Sumida-ku. 

www.infinitybooksjapan.com 

BOOKS KINOKUNIYA 

TOKYO 

SHELF 

THE STORY Shelf opened in 1994, 

and its mix of English language photo 

collections – everything from zine-like 

publications and art journals to hefty 

monographs and limited printings – draws 

art lovers both foreign and domestic. 

WHY WE LOVE IT It’s the kind of 

place where you can easily find the hours 

slipping away as you page through books 

of photographers you may have known, or 

never heard of. It’s just around the corner 

from the Watarium Museum of Contemporary 

Art, so it can serve as a pleasant 

appetizer – or dessert – for a weekend 

afternoon’s aesthetic session. 

WHAT TO BUY We were intrigued by 

Ryuichi Ishikawa’s “okinawan portraits 

2012-2016,” which reveal another side of 

life on Japan’s southernmost islands, and 

we found ourselves smitten by the tomboyish 

muse who lounged on the pages of 

Valerie Phillips’ “Sara Superhero.” 

Izumi Building, 3-7-4 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. 

www.shelf.ne.jp 

THE STORY Founded in 1927 by 

Moichi Tanabe, Kinokuniya’s first book 

store was opened in Shinjuku. Although 

the building burnt down during an air 

raid in 1945, it reopened a few months 

later and expanded with more shops 

around the country. Today, it’s the 

largest bookstore chain in Japan, and 

also boasts nearly 30 stores overseas. In 

August 2016, the Shinjuku South branch 

underwent a renovation, reopening 

with a sole focus on foreign language 

books. Now called Books Kinokuniya 

Tokyo, it takes up the entire sixth floor 

of the building, boasting more than 

100,000 publications, the largest foreign 

books selection in the chain. 

WHY WE LOVE THEM While 

there are several bookstores in Tokyo 

where you can buy English books, 

Books Kinokuniya Tokyo offers more 

variety by catering to French, German, 

Italian, Spanish, and Chinese readers. 

They cover multiple genres, so fans of 

manga, sci-fi, art, and other niche areas 

can happily spend hours browsing 

the shelves here. And it goes without 

saying that all the latest fiction and nonfiction 

are on offer, as are educational 

materials, magazines, and children’s 

books. Plus, they have free Wi-Fi. 

WHAT TO BUY The world is your 

oyster, but to enjoy a 20% discount, 

go for the staff-recommended 

“book of the month.” 

6F South Building, Takashimaya Times 

Square, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku. 

www.kinokuniya.co.jp/c/store/Books- 

Kinokuniya-Tokyo 


TRENDS 

BEAUTY 

The Beauty of Charcoal 

GIVE YOUR SOAP HOLDER A HIP NEW LOOK WITH BLACK BARS OF BINCHOTAN 

(ALSO REALLY GOOD FOR YOUR SKIN) 

Compiled by Annemarie Luck 

Now, we’re not suggesting you fish out some leftover coal from 

last night’s barbecue and slap it on your face as a skincare 

regime. Rather, we’re talking about binchotan, or activated 

charcoal, which has been used in Japan since the Edo period 

for both cooking and cleansing, and has recently begun attracting attention 

in the global beauty world for its excellent ability to trap and draw 

out impurities. 

Most of the best quality binchotan, also known as white charcoal, is 

made from branches of ubame oak trees in Kishu, Wakayama Prefecture. 

Skilled artisans burn the wood in kilns at low temperatures for 

an extended period of time before upping the temperature to around 

1,000 degrees Celsius so that it glows white hot. It’s then rapidly cooled 

and smothered with ash. The result is an extremely pure carbon that 

contains numerous tiny pores, which allows it to absorb chemicals and 

toxins, making it ideal for purifying air and water, whitening teeth, and 

detoxifying skin – it’s particularly helpful for those suffering from dry 

skin, acne, or redness. 

So how do you incorporate this sooty ingredient into your cleansing 

routine? Luckily, there’s no need to make a DIY carbon face mask 

as plenty of beauty brands have begun launching charcoal-based face 

cleansers, masks, and soaps. To get you off to an easy start, we’ve 

rounded up three natural binchotan soap bars, perfect for those long, 

restorative winter baths. 

1. MEOW MEOW TWEET’S TEA 

TREE EUCALYPTUS BAR SOAP 

It comes in hand-wrapped, whimsically illustrated 

packaging, and it’s made with charcoal for 

detoxifying, cocoa butter for a youthful complexion, 

ground oats to soothe and mildly exfoliate, and tea 

tree and eucalyptus oils to combat skin blemishes – 

what more could you ask of a bar of soap? 

Available in Japan for ¥2,100 at www.go-online.jp. 

For more info call George & Oliver Company 

on 03-3505-7853. 


3 MORE NATURAL SOAPS 

Not into charcoal? 

Try these bars instead 

KHMER RABBIT 

The Japan-born, Cambodia-based founder 

of this beautiful brand makes these natural 

soaps with honey – which he collects from 

hives himself! The soaps are organic and 

moisturizing, and if you can get your hands 

on a “whipping net,” you’ll be amazed at 

how much foam they produce. 

Available from ¥3,780 at rabbitradiance.jp, and 

from Rooms Ji-Ba at Shibuya Hikarie between 

November 14 and December 25. 

SOAP & PAPER FACTORY’S 

STAR-MADE COLLECTION 

This New York brand makes all its soaps the 

old-fashioned way: by hand. Their Star-made 

Collection features three pure, vegan soaps 

in three varieties – Bouquet, Camellia, and 

Violet – all made with shea butter, olive oil, and 

coconut oil. Available in Japan for ¥1,800 from 

www.go-online.jp. For more info call George & 

Oliver Company on 03-3505-7853. 

2. PELICAN HINOKI 

DEITANSEKI SOAP 

Made by Pelican, this charcoalbased 

soap is a bestseller in Japan. 

When you unwrap it, the first 

thing you’ll notice is its pleasant 

hinoki (cypress pine) scent. Hinoki 

is known for its relaxing effects 

and for alleviating skin problems 

such as minor irritations, rashes 

and cuts. The soap also contains 

bentonite clay, which leaves skin 

smoother and brighter. 

¥756 from Amazon.co.jp, 

www.hinokideitanseki.com 

ECOSTORE 

These creamy, gentle, mineral-based soaps 

by Ecostore come in a range of delicious 

“flavors,” our favorites being coconut, vanilla, 

and lemongrass. As the label says, they’re 

made with “no nasty chemicals.” 

Available for ¥313 from ecostore.jp or at 

the Ecostore shop: 2F Atre Ebisunishi, 

1-6 Ebisuminami, Shibuya-ku. 

3. RIKUMO BINCHOTAN 

FACIAL SOAP 

Although based in the US, this 

brand has Japanese roots and sells 

a range of charcoal products made 

from Kishu-sourced binchotan. 

Their facial soap is moisturizing 

and detoxifying, has antibacterial 

properties, and helps to reduce 

acne and redness. 

About ¥3,200 from rikumo.com 


[ PROMOTION ] 

CHRISTMAS DINNER 

WITH A DIFFERENCE 

Want to celebrate Christmas in 

style this year? Head to Andaz 

Tavern for their Christmas Gala 

Dinner, and enjoy a course 

menu of gourmet dishes featuring 

Japan’s seasonal ingredients, 

such as Hokkaido venison and 

foie gras crème brûlée. The dinner 

is available from December 

22 to 25 (with two seatings at 

5:30pm and 8:30pm from December 

23 to 25), and costs from 

¥18,000 to ¥25,000, with wine 

pairings available from ¥6,000 

to ¥8,000. Each guest receives a 

complimentary welcome glass of 

Veuve Clicquot champagne. 

GET FESTIVE WITH 

ANDAZ TOKYO 

FROM CREATIVE COCKTAILS TO PLAYFUL PASTRIES, HERE’S 

OUR PICK OF THE HOTEL’S TASTY SEASONAL SPECIALS 

BE YOUR OWN BARTENDER 

Now, this doesn’t mean that you’ll 

literally be mixing your own drinks 

at Andaz Tokyo’s Rooftop Bar – why 

would you want to do that, anyway, 

when the resident bartender 

is award-winning Ryuichi Saito? 

Rather, this special offer invites you 

to choose the base of your cocktail 

from a list of over 20 ingredients, 

including spirits, fruits, and teas, and 

Saito and co. will whip up an original 

drink just for you. The “Be Your 

Own Bartender” offer costs ¥1,850, 

and is available from November 1 

to December 31 at Rooftop Bar. 

MIX THINGS UP 

If you simply can’t choose between 

all the different ingredients on offer 

for your own unique drink, then 

turn your attention to Rooftop Bar’s 

Festive Cocktails, which have been 

crafted by the hotel’s mixologists. 

We recommend the hot mojito tea 

cocktail (¥1,800). Available from 

December 1-31 at Rooftop Bar. 

LET THEM EAT (CHRISTMAS) CAKE 

Whether you’re catering your own Christmas lunch for friends and family, or you’re looking for 

that perfect corporate gift to send out to clients, Andaz Tokyo’s Pastry Shop has an inspiring lineup 

of playful pastries, sweets and cakes to choose from. Pastry Chef Okazaki has worked his magic 

once again, putting a flavor twist on his signature eclairs, and creating a range of exquisitely 

decorated Christmas cakes and hampers. Cakes range from ¥3,000 to ¥5,500 (excluding consumption 

tax) and reservations will be accepted from November 1 (store pick-up between December 

19-25), while a selection of eclairs and hampers will be on sale at Pastry Shop from November 21 

to December 25. For more information, visit andaztokyodining.com or call 03 6830 7765. 

CONTACT 

Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills 

1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo. 

For reservations, call 03 6830 7739 or 

email tokyo.restaurant@andaz.com 

www.andaztokyodining.com 


2016, Mineral pigments, dyed mud pigments, metallic foil, sumi ink, Japanese paper, Each piece 18×14cm 

Wataru Miyagacho / Temperature Samples 

Saturday 5th November - Sunday 20th November, 2016 

Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays 

Opening Reception: Friday November 4th from 18:00 onwards 

「Cast-off skin of jewelry」Stone powder clay, beads, mineral pigments, 25 x 25 x 4cm 

Door to Door Pickup Service 

24 Hour Staff Supervision 

One daycare visit available 

Open 365 Days 

No Cages 

Haruhi Inaba / Cast-off skin of jewelry 

Saturday 26th November - Sunday 11th December, 2016 

Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays 

Opening Reception: Friday November 25th from 18:00 onwards 

Athletic Dog Club co., Ltd. 

1F 1-8-18 Akatsutsumi, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 156-0044 

Tel: 03-3327-1003 I Fax: 03-3327-7407 | E: athletic.dog.club@gmail.com 

www.pethoteltokyo.com (Japanese) | http://adc.pipi.cc (English) 

Hokkaien 

Aoyama Cemetary 

To Shibuya 

Gonpachi Roppongi Dori 

Nishi-Azabu Intersection 

Roppongi Hills 

Mori Art Museum 

Hiroo Station 

Gaien West St. 

Nogisaka Station 

The National 

Art Center, Tokyo 

National Graduate 

Institute for Policy Studies 

Roppongi Station 

Gaien East St. 

NANATASU GALLERY 

〒 106-0031 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 

2-12-4 Ogura building 3F 

Te l : 03-6419-7229 

Web: www.na n a t a s u . j p 


[ PROMOTION ] 

THROW THE 

BEST PARTY 

LOOKING FOR A SPOT TO HOST AN ELEGANT 

CHRISTMAS OR NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATION? HOTEL 

THE M INNSOMNIA AKASAKA HAS JUST THE SPACE 

Don’t have time to plan and cook the meal 

yourself? No problem. You are welcome to 

order food delivery to the hotel, or arrange 

for professional catering – in fact, Weekender 

recently hosted our very own party here, with 

tasty platters prepared by Ultimate Catering 

(www.ultimatecatering.jp). Whether you want 

something a little more formal or you’d prefer 

the event to be a casual beer and pizza evening, 

it’s completely up to you to design your perfect 

party. 

As the evening draws to a close, don’t forget 

that the hotel boasts a 24-hour café on the first 

floor, which serves speciality coffee by Kyoto 

brand Unir. Round off your meal by ordering 

after-dinner coffee for your guests, and a fresh 

pot will be delivered to your door. (As an added 

bonus, guests at the hotel are entitled to drink 

as many cups of coffee from Unir as they’d like 

– for free.) 

Not ready for the night to end? “The hotel 

that never sleeps” just so happens to be located 

in the center of Akasaka, which is one of Tokyo’s 

liveliest and most culturally rich neighborhoods, 

so you’ll only need to take a short walk to find 

your next party. 

Perhaps you’re away from home this 

festive season, but you’d still like 

to bring a little Christmas cheer 

to your year end. Or perhaps you 

live in Tokyo, but your apartment is a tad too 

small to hold a New Year’s Eve party for more 

than a handful of guests. These are just two 

of the myriad reasons why you might want 

to consider renting out an event and kitchen 

space for a December get together. Luckily, 

HOTEL the M INNSOMNIA akasaka has come 

up with the ideal solution: they’ve created 

an entertainment space inside the hotel that 

combines a state-of-the-art kitchen complete 

with dining area, and it’s available for rent by 

both guests and the public. 

The “Kitchen Drinker,” as the space is 

quirkily named, features a luxurious customdesigned 

kitchen by German brand Bulthaup, 

which is renowned for its innovative designs, 

expert craftsmanship, and cutting-edge 

manufacturing. Open cabinets line the back 

wall, and a large wooden and chrome kitchen 

island takes centerstage, providing a focal 

point for cooking and socializing. You can opt 

for an open-plan buffet-style setting, or seat 

up to eight guests around the dining table. 

DON’T HAVE 

TIME TO COOK 

YOURSELF? NO 

PROBLEM… 

RENT THE “KITCHEN DRINKER” ROOM 

For non-guests, the space costs ¥29,000 (including 

tax and service fee) per four hours. For 

guests at the hotel, it’s half price. 

SPECIAL PACKAGE DEAL FOR GUESTS 

Planning a short stay in Tokyo this festive season 

and want to host the perfect party? HOTEL 

the M INNSOMNIA akasaka is offering guests a 

special offer that combines accommodation with 

rental of the “Kitchen Drinker.” If you’re with a 

group of eight people, for example, you can book 

four twin guest rooms and host a four-hour, 

self-catered event in the “Kitchen Drinker” space 

for a total of ¥105,000 per night. If you require 

catering, the hotel will arrange this for you 

through Ultimate Catering, with the minimum 

cost being ¥50,000 (includes sushi bar, 12 dishes, 

all drinks, and décor; dessert or cheese fondue 

can be requested at an additional price). Additional 

guests can be added at an extra charge, 

and other packages are offered for parties of 

different numbers. Please note that this offer 

can only be used Monday to Friday. 

For more information, visit www.m-innsomnia or 

call 03 3568 3456. 


AN ODE TO CREATIVITY 

As November begins, Tokyo Fashion Week has just ended, Tokyo Design Week has just 

started, and Design Festa is coming up. So it’s a fitting month to pay homage to the 

creatives bringing inspiration to and from Japan. 


FRESH FROM 

FASHION WEEK 

JUST AS WE WENT TO PRINT ON THIS ISSUE 

TOKYO FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2017 

WAS IN FULL SWING. HERE ARE SIX RISING 

STARS WHO CAUGHT OUR ATTENTION 

Compiled by Dorothee Erle and Annemarie Luck 

CARL JAN CRUZ 

Originally from the Philippines, Carl Jan Cruz describes his 

label, which he founded during his final year at London 

College of Fashion in 2015, as a “visual autobiography” that 

references significant moments in his life. This inner dialogue 

translates into an intriguing collection that conveys 

a bittersweet nostalgic feeling, while still being new and 

fashion forward. Each design is planned in detail – “designing 

and taking it apart and reforming it rigorously on 

repeat” – until that sleeve has just the right comfortable 

feeling and that fabric feels just like that garment from 

the past, with the aim of creating clothes with which the 

wearer can connect. This was the designer’s first showing 

at Fashion Week, with his introductory collection for 

Spring/Summer 2017 based on the theme “Pause” (as in 

pause for introspection). A truly thought-through and 

emotional collection, it featured deconstructed denim, 

asymmetrical cuts and splashes of vibrant color. 

www.carljancruz.com (Photos by Din Eugenio)

LEONARD WONG 

China-born Leonard Wong – whose designs features on this 

issue’s cover – moved to Tokyo in 2010 to pursue his dream 

of studying at Bunka Fashion College. He graduated three 

years later not only with an honors degree in his pocket 

but also as a winner of the Tokyo New Designer Fashion 

Grand Prix award. Wong’s futuristic designs have 

been featured in Another magazine’s fashion and 

dance video project “Movement,” where his clothes 

were worn by dance duo AyaBambi. This video 

also served as the inspiration for his Tokyo Fashion 

Week show, which was one of the most exciting 

runway experiences we had this season. 

It opened with a short film projected onto a 

cubical screen, which then lifted to reveal 

AyaBambi, who performed a dramatic 

sci-fi-esque sequence. The designs featured 

geometric cutting in black, white, 

and red, with contrasting materials 

providing a balance of elegance and 

strength. www.leonardwong.jp 

FROM TOKYO TO 

NEW YORK 

These young designers debuted their 

ranges on the Tokyo runway as part of 

the Asia Fashion Collection, and won the 

coveted honor of showing at New York 

Fashion Week. 

DAIRIKU OKAMOTO 

FOR DAIRIKU 

Dairiku Okamoto’s designs clearly have 

an American influence, and at times 

it seemed as though the models might 

have stepped right out of the movie “Taxi 

Driver” – and we mean this in a good way. 

Especially exciting were the 70s-style 

knitted tracksuits. 

MEI TAKEUCHI FOR BEHIND 

For her Behind collection, designer Mei 

Takeuchi drew inspiration from time 

spent in New York. The heavy-on-black 

streetwear was brightened with prints 

in white and orange. Some of these edgy 

styles could easily pass as unisex clothing. 

LOOP LOOP 

Established in 2014 by Hong Kong-born designer Polly Ho, 

this brand is based on the fundamentals in knitting textiles. 

Ho graduated from Hong Kong Polytechnic University, 

before studying further at the University of 

Central England and then working for Misa Harada 

Millinery in London. With Loom Loop, she has won 

several awards including the “Hong Kong Best” 

title in the 2016 HKDA Global Design Awards, and 

presented at New York Fashion Week in February 

2016. Besides using intricate knitting techniques, 

the collection also features luxurious 

Canton silk, a traditional fabric that requires 

a high degree of craftsmanship. Ho’s Spring/ 

Summer 2017 range is inspired by the 

Chinese legend “Madam White Snake,” 

and features graphic representations of 

snakes, butterflies and Chinese knots. 

Our favorite item? Those magnificent 

open-toe boots with bright green floral 

print. www.loom-loop.com 

YUNOSUKE YAMADA AND STELLA 

HUANG FOR R.Y/S.H 

This designer duo’s runway looks were 

dominated by beautiful coats in all forms, 

from trench to oversized to short-sleeved. 

Eye-catching circle motifs recurred in the 

monochrome or two-toned looks.

5 TOKYO 

CREATIVES 

TO WATCH 

AS WE LOOK FORWARD TO DESIGN 

FESTA LATER THIS MONTH, HERE’S 

OUR PICK OF FIVE UP-AND-COMING 

INSPIRING TOKYOITES MAKING 

WAVES IN DESIGN, ILLUSTRATION, 

ART, AND OTHER FIELDS 

Words by Bunny Bissoux 

OKAME 

ILLUSTRATOR AND ARTIST 

“I want to create slightly surreal, silly art 

that makes people who are under pressure 

or stress feel like ‘well ... what will be, will 

be.’ I want them to feel relaxed, physically 

and psychologically. I’ve realized having 

a relaxed mind is important.” 

In Okame’s vibrant playful illustrations there are multiple 

worlds where humans, animals and creatures mix together in 

a variety of absurd situations. Her works are funny, accessible 

and astute, perfectly suited to adorn all kinds of goods from 

stationery to T-shirts. After three years working as a web 

designer, she went freelance in 2009 and has designed goods 

for various companies in addition to producing numerous 

illustrations for websites, magazines, flyers and so on. Recently 

her emoji stamps for the LINE messaging application 

became a popular trend as her unique sense of humor and 

charming loose-style drawings seem to hit a chord with almost 

everyone. Despite having had a baby this year, Okame shows 

no signs of slowing down and hopes to continue her activities, 

producing new goods, participating in events, and no doubt 

continuing to quirk smiles on many more faces. 

WHERE TO SEE HER WORK ONLINE 

www.okame-web.com, Twitter: @oka_me 

WHERE TO SEE IT IN TOKYO Small goods are available 

at Design Studio Tora no Koya (toranokoya.com), and T-shirt 

designs can be bought from Arton in Shibuya (www.arton.jp). 

Also, don’t miss the chance to visit her booth (No.A-84/85) at 

Design Festa 44. 


LEE KAN KYO 

ARTIST 

Left, from top: Vibrant illustrations by Okame (pictured 

middle). Below, from top: Lee Kan Kyo’s conceptual work and 

Instagram series “juice box selfie.” 

“I want to send my thoughts 

out there to you!” 

Lee Kan Kyo was born in Taiwan but has 

been living in Japan for almost a decade. 

Working across many mediums, he is difficult 

to pigeonhole, as he continues to evolve, 

touching on everything from illustration and 

design to conceptual and video art. Regardless 

of form, it is always striking, colorful and 

packed with energy. His work has a strong 

graphic quality yet still holds a powerful 

depth as he explores ideas and concepts 

of mass production and consumerism, 

often through repetitive processes, having 

previously produced work looking at idol 

culture and supermarket advertising. Since 

graduating from the master’s program at 

Tokyo Zokei University, he has been consistently 

active in the Tokyo art scene through 

exhibitions and art fairs, winning the Grand 

Prix prize in the 10th “1_WALL” Graphics 

Exhibition in 2014. In recent years he has 

garnered attention and a steady following 

with his unique Instagram account chronicling 

his daily “juice box selfie,” which he 

later made into a set of playing cards. 

WHERE TO SEE HIS WORK ONLINE 

www.leekankyo.com, 

Instagram: @lee_kan_kyo #juiceboxselfie 

WHERE TO SEE IT IN TOKYO Check his 

website and social media for current and 

upcoming events and exhibitions. His goods, 

including the must-have “juice box selfie” 

playing cards, are available from Shinjuku 

Ophthalmologist Gallery (www.gankagarou. 

com) and Utrecht in Harajuku (utrecht.jp). 

Visitors are also welcome at his new studio 

in Kodaira, west Tokyo. 


AKARI URAGAMI 

TEXTILE ARTIST 

“My work is based on the vision I have of reality in the 

world around us – all kinds of living things mixing and 

coexisting within an environment ... It is not for anyone 

but at the same time it is for everyone.” 

Akari’s soft sculptures and textile work are an explosion of incredible colors blending 

together across abstract landscapes of shape and texture in an exploration of 

“humans as living things.” After receiving the Graduation Excellence Award for her 

costume piece in the textiles major at Musashino Art University, Akari has gone on 

to hold several solo exhibitions of her non-wearable works in addition to collaborations 

with the fashion world. Her process often begins with hand-dyeing cloth, 

sewing it and then stuffing it to make 3D forms resembling flesh, skin and the natural 

exteriors of animals. As a teenager immersed in the Harajuku fashion scene, she 

envisioned clothing as a human skin and saw this as a way to express intentions, 

realities and desires. Seeing Akari’s work stirs the senses and connects to something 

beneath the surface – much like the body, it is impressive as much because of the 

impact of the complete work as the detail of each small section. 

WHERE TO SEE HER WORK ONLINE www.akariuragami.com, 

Instagram: @uragamia, Twitter: @akari_ug 

WHERE TO SEE IT IN TOKYO When not part of feature exhibitions, her work 

can be found at Diego gallery in Omotesando (www.di-ego.net/gallery). Recently, 

Akari embarked on an extended trip to London, but we can expect big and beautiful 

things when she returns to Tokyo. 

BRANDON REIERSON 

DESIGNER 

“My work plays heavily on 

personal nostalgia that 

awkwardly tugs at the heart ... 

I hope to encourage people to 

look a bit inward and not only 

embrace those awkward insecurities 

from their past a little 

more lightheartedly, but also 

to channel it as a means of 

self expression.” 

Hailing from a small town in Oklahoma, USA, 

Brandon Reierson moved to Tokyo about four 

years ago. Working under the name Lactose 

Intoler-Art (a reference to Brandon’s own 

lactose intolerance), he transforms his quirky 

illustrations into wearable garments and 

accessories. Inspired by 90s cartoons, video 

games and Japanese street fashion, Lactose 

Intoler-Art designs mix fresh, futuristic 

qualities with throwback nostalgia. Without 

focusing on one specific target market, 

Brandon hopes that the people who wear his 

brand will mix it with their own individual 

style, a wish that is certainly coming true in 

melting pot fashion hotspots like Harajuku, 

Koenji and Shimokitazawa. These unique 

designs with chaotic all-over prints and 

clashing embellishments are waves ahead 

of generic streetwear and hold their own 

in a fantasy world of cartoon chic. 

WHERE TO SEE HIS WORK ONLINE 

www.shoplactose.com, Instagram: 

@lactoseintolerart, Twitter: @intolerart 

WHERE TO SEE IT IN TOKYO Lactose 

Intoler-Art is sold at Hayatochiri in Koenji 

(hayatochiri-koenji-kitakore.com). Brandon 

frequently holds pop-up shops and exhibitions 

(previously selling pieces at LaForet and 

Parco) so be sure to check his social media to 

find out where the next event will be. 


Below, top and middle: Lactose Intoler-Art by Brandon Reierson. 

Bottom: Nanae Kawahara’s dreamy imagery. 

NANAE KAWAHARA 

ILLUSTRATOR 

“People can see my works 

are colorful with shiny stars 

and some kawaii things, like 

animals and girls. On the 

other hand, I would like to 

explain they also have dark 

side, like gothic things, 

depression, slight suspense 

and monsters...” 

Endearing illustrations with recurring 

imagery of dreams, dogs and abstract 

patterns are conveyed in a unique 

muted palette through Nanae’s soft but 

captivating style. After graduating from 

the graphic design course at Tama Art 

University, and relocating to the UK to 

study a master’s degree in illustration, 

she returned to Japan in 2012. Having 

worked on various projects with fashion 

brands and music companies, she continues 

to exhibit regularly whilst selling 

a plethora of goods in select stores across 

the city. Her love of music and dogs are 

directly apparent in her work, while 

she also draws on personal experiences, 

memories and thoughts about life and 

death for inspiration. Nanae’s work 

overflows with dreamy imagery, both 

light and dark, but ultimately it conveys 

a warm feeling of optimism and cheer. 

WHERE TO SEE HER WORK ONLINE 

www.barbaratics.com, 

Twitter/Instagram: @nanaekawahara 

WHERE TO SEE IT IN TOKYO Nanae 

will be participating in the group show 

“Dog 100%” at Luck (part of Earth+ 

Gallery, earth-plus.net) from November 

5-20, where of course she’ll be selling 

pup-related items and art work. Regular 

stockists include Dot Fav in Akihabara 

(dotfav.jp) and Taco Che bookstore 

(tacoche.com), a hidden goldmine tucked 

away inside Nakano Broadway. 


Where Do All the 

Ballerinas Go? 

Words by Matthew Hernon 

Akane Takada 


THE WORLD’S 

THEIR STAGE 

How Takada and Hirano have 

worked their way to the top 

Ryoichi Hirano 

Japan is producing more 

world-class ballerinas than 

ever before, yet is losing most 

of them to countries like Russia, 

England and France. We 

caught up with Ryoichi Hirano 

and Akane Takada, two 

of Japan’s most successful 

dancers on the international 

stage, to learn more about 

why there’s little incentive 

for aspiring professionals to 

remain here 

For Ryoichi Hirano and Akane 

Takada, the dream was always to 

perform at the London Royal Ballet; 

a feat achieved by both during 

their teens. The male and female pair has 

been mesmerizing audiences for quite a few 

seasons already, and this summer became 

the first Japanese dancers in more than two 

decades to be elevated to principals at the 

prestigious company. 

The highest rank attainable for a 

ballerina, it’s a position currently held by 

a number of Japanese dancers around the 

world including Misa Kuranaga (Boston 

Ballet), Ako Kondo (Australian Ballet) and 

2014 Benois de la Danse winner Mariko 

Kida (Royal Swedish Ballet). The success of 

these dancers has helped raise the profile of 

ballet in Japan and will no doubt encourage 

younger generations to take lessons in 

even greater numbers. On the downside, 

Japan continues to lose its most talented 

ballerinas to foreign establishments. It’s 

a trend that Ryoichi Hirano believes will 

continue into the foreseeable future. 

“The life of a ballerina is not easy 

anywhere, but I think it’s particularly 

tough in Japan,” he tells Weekender from 

the Royal Opera House in Convent Garden, 

London. “You have many dancers making 

huge sacrifices to appear in shows not 

knowing whether they’re going to get paid. 

They don’t receive any protection as there 

are no regulations or unions in place. The 

fact is ballet dancing is seen more as a 

hobby and not classed as a real job. In the 

UK we’re treated as professionals who work 

under labor laws. Here at the Royal Ballet 

we’re properly looked after with masseurs, 

body experts, sports scientists, and so on. 

I know every company cannot be at that 

level, but right now the gap’s too big.” 

“It’s a shame because there are lots of 

good things happening in Japanese ballet 

at the moment. Its popularity is increasing, 

schools are thriving and the success of so 

many dancers overseas shows the teaching 

methods are working. The problem is 

that there’s no central company binding 

everything together.” 

The hope was that the National Ballet 

AKANE TAKADA 

Tokyo-born dancer Akane Takada started 

ballet at the age of three, and by the 

time she reached elementary school, 

she had already decided her goal in 

life: To perform at the Royal Ballet like 

her idol Miyako Yoshida. “She was just 

so precise in her movements, it was 

amazing to watch.” Takada did more 

than just watch. She spent hours at the 

Hiromi Takahashi Ballet Studio perfecting 

moves she’d seen on VCR. 

At 15 she moved to Russia to join the 

renowned Bolshoi Ballet Academy. 

Two years later she won the Audience 

Choice Award at the Prix de Lausanne 

and received a scholarship from the 

London Royal Ballet. Takada quickly 

worked her way up the ladder, winning 

successive promotions to first artist 

then soloist. A knee injury halted her 

progress for two seasons, but she came 

back strongly, becoming first soloist 

in 2014. This summer she reached the 

pinnacle of her profession when it was 

announced that she was to be elevated 

to principal. 

RYOICHI HIRANO 

For Ryoichi Hirano, the dream started 

at his mother’s ballet school in Osaka 

more than three decades ago. “My 

brother Keiichi had already joined and 

I was always turning up swinging from 

the rails, imitating other students,” 

he says. “It made sense to start taking 

classes.” Hirano didn’t have any specific 

heroes growing up, stating that he 

“just wanted to take the best bits from 

different dancers” he saw to try and 

“create something unique.” In 2001 

he showed the world what he was 

capable of by winning a gold medal 

at the Prix de Lausanne, and he was 

drafted in by the Royal Ballet soon 

after. The elegant dancer gradually 

progressed through the ranks, becoming 

first soloist in 2012. Four years 

later at the age of 32 he achieved 

his ultimate ambition when he was 

named a principal dancer. 


of Japan would become that company. Since 

opening in 1987, however, it’s struggled with 

funding. Financial aid is provided in the form 

of government subsidies, but it’s nothing like 

the kind of support European establishments 

receive. With almost all ballet companies 

operating at a loss, they rely on sponsorship 

in order to survive. A lack of money in 

Japan means dancers are usually paid on 

a commission basis, so if sales are bad 

they might not receive anything at all. The 

situation is much more secure for Londonbased 

dancer Akane Takada. 

“British ballet is seen as being more than 

a form of art; from a cultural perspective it’s 

viewed as something that’s very important,” 

she says. “In Japan it’s different. Fans are 

fanatical and people will comment about 

how amazing the dances look, but it’ll 

probably never enjoy the kind of status that 

something like kabuki receives because it 

simply doesn’t have the history. That makes it 

more difficult to attract investors. It also has 

a reputation as a posh form of entertainment 

for elite members of society who all dress 

immaculately. In England you have customers 

coming in jeans and T-shirts all the time.” 

One man trying to change that image 

is Tetsuya “Teddy” Kumakawa. Japan’s 

most famous ballerina, he was the last 

THE LIFE OF A 

BALLERINA IS NOT 

EASY ANYWHERE, 

BUT I THINK IT’S 

PARTICULARLY 

TOUGH IN JAPAN 

dancer from this country, before Takada 

and Hirano, to be elevated to a principal 

at the Royal Ballet back in 1993 (Miyako 

Yoshida became a principal two years later, 

however, she was recruited, not promoted). 

In 1998, Kumakawa made the surprising 

and controversial decision to quit the 

famed British company in order to set up 

a Japanese organization called K-Ballet. 

He brought five leading dancers with him, 

but it was undoubtedly his own reputation 

that helped secure sponsorship deals with 

a number of big corporations including 

the TV station TBS. Because of these 

partnerships, K-Ballet has been able to tour 

the country extensively, produce numerous 

shows overseas, and pay monthly wages to 

dancers ranging from the rank of principal 

to first artist. 

“Ballet has become more mainstream 

in Japan and that’s mainly down to Teddy’s 

influence,” says Hirano. “He has appeared 

on many TV shows and that helps to attract 

new fans in an instant. His company has had 

a massive impact and is part of the reason 

why Akane and I have received so much 

interest from the media.” 

This summer, Hirano and Takada were 

given a heroes’ welcome when they toured 

the country with the Royal Ballet, and were 

afforded some time to speak with Prime 

Minister Shinzo Abe. The hope now is that 

their success, and the accomplishments 

of many other Japanese dancers overseas, 

will encourage the government and local 

businesses to invest more heavily in ballet. 

“That’d be nice,” says Hirano. “When 

I was young I dreamed of dancing for the 

Royal Ballet in England. Hopefully in the 

future kids will have similar dreams about 

performing at a Japanese company. I think 

we’re a long way from being at that level yet, 

but as I mentioned there’s a lot to be positive 

about. If we can find that central stick to 

bind everything together then the future 

would look even brighter.” 


Meet the Fairy 

Skull Maker 

Interview by Dorothee Erle 

Shinji Nakaba’s detailed “fairy skulls,” beautifully carved 

from tiny pearls, recently made waves online (and at the 

Oscars earlier this year). We tracked him down to learn 

more about his work and inspiration 

The Kanagawa-born artist always 

aspired to create something 

unique, and in his early twenties 

he tried everything from dressmaking 

to hairstyling to try and fulfill this 

desire. But when Shinji Nakaba was introduced 

to jewelry making in 1974, he finally 

found his medium. The self-taught designer 

and self-proclaimed rebel has since created 

a manifold collection of jewelry made from 

a range of materials such as aluminum, gold 

and even plastic bottles. His main focus is 

on revolutionizing glyptic art, the ancient 

tradition of engraving. And, as with the 

pearl skulls, his pieces often reflect a kind of 

modern vanitas, portraying the dark beauty 

that lies in decay. 

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE JEWELRY AS 

YOUR MEDIUM OF ART? 

Simply put, I can do it the best. It’s not that 

I am set on jewelry. It just met my capabilities. 

My mother ran a dressmaking shop, 

so I would see many beautifully dressed 

women all the time. I remember dreaming 

of being a fashion designer, an artist, and 

so on. But paintings and carvings don’t sell 

for too much. In the end, it was after I had 

experienced them all that I came to feel 

this way. 

THE MOMENT YOU 

THINK YOU HAVE 

MASTERED ART IS 

THE END 

something comes from what I feel is innovative, 

and what I can’t help myself from being 

over-curious about. It might be self-centered 

to think that there must be others in this enormous 

world who would want the same things 

as me. But extreme egoism might just be the 

way to contribute to something or someone. 

YOUR DESIGNS INCLUDE SKULLS, 

SNAKES AND BODY PARTS. WHAT IS 

YOUR FASCINATION WITH THE DARK 

AND OBSCURE? 

Many say that contemporary art is hard to 

understand when you don’t have prior input, 

but considering my work, you could say that 

anyone – with or without the input – can 

understand it. I also just find it interesting. 

Carving body parts is intriguing; it’s challenging 

to bring out the texture and curves of the 

skin. Figurative sculpture has lost popularity 

in the age of modernism, but I feel like there’s 

still a spark left for it. It’s very motivating to 

see people enjoying my skull designs, when 

they actually weren’t fond of skulls before. 

YOUR PEARL SKULLS ARE A GLOB- 

AL FAVORITE, AND EVEN MADE IT 

TO THE OSCARS, WITH “MAD MAX: 

FURY ROAD” MAKEUP ARTIST LESLEY 

VANDERWALT WEARING A SET. ARE 

THEY A FAVORITE FOR YOU TOO? 

I do have special feelings for the pearl skulls. 

I’ve always liked using baroque pearls [pearls 

that aren’t perfectly round, but a little crooked], 

but I was never able to successfully carve 

them. Everyone involved in working with 

pearls believed it couldn’t be done. But then 

I tried carving one specific type and managed 

to carve to the center without anything 

peeling off. I look back and I find it incredible 

that I’m carving people’s faces or skulls from 

pearls. The moment you think you’ve mastered 

art is the end. 

Shinji Nakaba’s pieces can be purchased online 

at s-nakaba.shop-pro.jp and at the shop House 

@ Mikirihassin (5-42-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku). 

YOU WORK WITH EVERYTHING 

FROM TRASH CANS TO PRECIOUS 

PEARLS. TELL US MORE. 

In the 90s, I started using trash, metal, 

and aluminum for jewelry; I started to 

realize a fresh kind of beauty could only 

be created by using materials equally, 

regardless of value. You can create 

so much beauty with things that are 

thought to be useless. I’m always thinking 

that I might be the last person in the 

world to see something like this. I feel 

quite excited by the thought. 

WHEN DESIGNING, DO YOU ONLY 

HAVE THE PIECE IN MIND OR DO 

YOU THINK OF THE PERSON TOO? 

It’s not a matter of imagining the piece 

or the person; my motivation for creating 


Portraits 

of Slow 

Growth 

We speak with an American photographer who found 

inspiration in the art and skill of Japanese bonsai masters, 

whose botanical creations can be found in Washington DC’s 

National Bonsai and Penjing Museum 

Words by Alec Jordan 

Once a work of art has been created and 

put out into the world, that is usually that: 

you’re unlikely to find a sculptor who 

would return to one of their pieces once 

it had been installed, and as much as they 

might want to, no writer is going to walk into a bookstore 

to make amendments to copies of their novel that might 

be sitting on the shelf. But, when it comes to the art of 

bonsai, a piece is never really finished. It can take years of 

pruning and guiding branches to achieve the shape that a 

bonsai master might want. Then, in the years that follow, 

the tree must be carefully attended so that it maintains 

its shape, size, and health. It’s a process that never ends: 

the artisans who “train” the trees continue to work on 

them for decades, and it is not unusual for bonsai pieces 

to outlive those who first helped bring them into being. 

Bonsai is a manifestation, writ small, of the aesthetic 

and spiritual qualities that Japan holds most dear: attention 

to detail, patience, and an appreciation for nature, and 

given the extraordinary amount of work that goes into 

each of the pieces, when they are given as gifts, it is a great 

honor – and a considerable responsibility. In 1976, the 

government of Japan presented the US with 53 bonsai in 

honor of the country’s bicentennial. From this initial gift, 

the Museum expanded its collection, adding bonsai made 

from trees native to the US as well as examples of penjing, 

Photos courtesy of Stephen Voss 


The trees absolutely have personalities and 

sometimes can be just as challenging as people in 

trying to bring them out 

Sargent Juniper, in training since 1905 


Miyajima White Pine, in training since 1625. This tree survived the bombing of Hiroshima, and was given to the US by bonsai master Masaru Yamaki 

the horticultural art that was developed in China and 

preceded bonsai by a few centuries. Now, Washington 

DC’s National Bonsai and Penjing Museum is one of the 

country’s most celebrated collections. 

As well as serving as examples of soft diplomacy 

– reminders of ties that connect nations even during 

times of strain – these miniature trees are sources of 

aesthetic inspiration to everyday visitors who drop by 

the Museum. One of those people was Stephen Voss. 

Now a professional photographer whose lens is trained 

on politicians and other figures who shape business 

and global policy (www.stephenvoss.com), Voss was 

first drawn to the bonsai as a university student 17 

years ago. “From my first glimpse of the trees all those 

years ago, I knew implicitly that there was something 

to be learned from them, from their endurance and 

quiet dignity.” 

Over the years Voss kept returning to the Museum, 

but he didn’t decide to connect his professional life as 

a photographer to his personal appreciation of the 

bonsai until last year, when he began a project that 

brought the two worlds together. Over nearly a year, 

he would photograph each tree at the Museum, but 

at a leisurely pace that he would never have with 

the politicians and businesspeople he often shot. It 

was a painstaking process, and it didn’t always work 

out, Voss explains. “I would choose a single tree and 

spend hours immersed in it, trying to make a visual 

record of the spirit of the tree. Sometimes I would 

find an image, sometimes not.” As he examined the 

bonsai and penjing pieces, he found similarities to 

the portraiture that he did professionally: “The trees 

absolutely have personalities and sometimes can be 

just as challenging as people in trying to bring them 

out. The emotional resonance of different trees is so 

varied – some feel heavy and dramatic, while others 

are lightweight and carefree.” 

At first, Voss intended for the photos to be a part 

of his personal portfolio, but after receiving a lot of 

positive feedback about the images, he decided to share 

Chinese Elm, training date unknown 

Crape Myrtle, in training since 2010 


Bald Cypress, in training since 1972 

IF I AM ABLE TO 

SHARE ANYTHING 

OF MY TIME AROUND 

THE BONSAI, IT IS 

THEIR GRACE IN THE 

PASSAGE OF TIME 

Japanese Black Pine, training date unknown. As Voss points out, the curves of the bonsai bear a resemblance to a map of Japan. 

the pictures with the public. Halfway through his 

project, he shared his photos with the chief curator 

of the Museum, Jack Sustic, who put him in touch 

with two other American bonsai masters, Michael 

Hagedorn and Ryan Neil. A Kickstarter campaign 

followed, and with the backing of 222 donors from 

around the world, “In Training” was published. 

While there are plenty of pictures that show 

an entire tree in full frame, many provide the 

experience you might have while walking through 

the Museum yourself: examining small details of 

a tree, gazing around the gallery, or even looking 

down at the mark left by a bonsai pot that has been 

temporarily removed. Much like the meditative 

For more information about “In Training,” 

visit bonsaibook.net. You can also purchase 

a copy on Amazon: bit.ly/TWBonsaiBook 

approach that Voss took in capturing the images, 

paging through “In Training” is an exercise in 

contemplation – and respect. 

“When I’m standing before a tree, I often think 

of the many bonsai masters who have tended to it 

and trained it. For an older tree, there are many 

generations of people who have worked on a tree 

and I’m humbled to think of this idea, that they 

made this their life’s work only to pass it along to 

someone else after they were gone. 

“If I am able to share anything of my time 

around the bonsai, it is their grace in the passage 

of time, their peace and the invitation they extend 

to include oneself in the natural order of things.” 


Tormented 

Talents 

Words by Matthew Hernon 

To be a star in Japan, finding a talent agency – and signing away your freedom – 

may be the only way to reach your dreams. Is it a price worth paying? 

For many it can be too tempting an offer to turn 

down: Sign with a talent agency and you could 

be on the front cover of “Vogue,” perform live 

in front of thousands, or possibly feature in bigbudget 

movies. The appeal is obvious, yet behind the glitz 

and glamor things aren’t always as they seem, especially 

here in Japan. 

The entertainment industry in this country has a dark 

underbelly, which you hear about in rumors of power 

harassment, sexual assault and other criminal activities. 

Celebrities are rarely given freedom to express themselves 

and in many cases are effectively seen as the property 

of agencies, with no power or control over their careers. 

Voicing an opinion can also be problematic. For popular 

actor Takumi Saitoh, it’s one of the most frustrating aspects 

of his profession. 

“If you say something too controversial you might get 

your manager in trouble so that’s something to avoid,” he 

recently told Weekender. “It’s hard. There are lots of issues 

I’d like to write about for my blog, but I know there’s a limit 

to what I can say. I’ve spoken to actors in America who have 

the freedom to criticize, protest and speak about elections. 

We’re not able to do that.” 

It’s because of these restrictions that actor Yusuke Iseya 

has chosen to manage himself. He runs a multi-faceted 

business that focuses on sustainable development called 

The Rebirth Project; however, he believes that wouldn’t be 

possible if a company were running his affairs. 

“In Hollywood actors pay fees to their agents, and then 

have a degree of freedom,” Iseya told us in 2013. “Here 

management agencies have the control and feel like they’re 

the ones who ‘created’ these stars. Most celebrities receive 

salaries and consequently must do whatever they’re told. 

Many get fame from a young age because of their looks, but 

then when they reach their 40s or 50s they have no identity 

as everything’s been done for them. It means they can’t 

freely take part in charity activities like, say Angelina (Jolie) 

does in America. It’s different for me as I’m my own boss.” 

Being an established name in the industry certainly 

helps. For up-and-coming artists things aren’t so straightforward. 

Twenty-six-year-old actress Nanami is currently going 

it alone and has managed to find semi-regular work in various 

theater productions and musicals while also playing key 

roles in movies such as “Outer Man” and “Hold my Hand.” 


Eventually, though, in order to get parts she 

really covets she knows she’ll probably have 

to sign with an agency. 

“I’ve spoken to people about the possibility 

of continuing to manage myself, but the 

response is always the same: You’ll need to 

work with an office if you want to get to the 

next level,” she says. “I signed for an agency 

after returning from LA (where she studied 

acting for four years), and at the first meeting 

with my representative I spoke about my 

hopes, which were quite ambitious. He 

looked at me as if I were talking nonsense 

and said ‘it’s impossible.’ I know it’s important 

to stay grounded, but that was really 

demoralizing to hear. 

“I quickly realized that many agencies 

have a path set out for you and anyone who 

steps away from that, even just a little bit, is 

frowned upon. You’re not allowed to be proactive 

and find your own auditions or turn 

down what’s offered. They set the agenda and 

you have to follow.” 

In the Japanese music industry the restrictions 

are known to be even more severe. 

At a Tokyo Bridal Festival in 2010 Tomomi 

Itano – a popular singer at the time with the 

all-female group AKB48 – revealed that she 

wasn’t allowed to look for a boyfriend as it 

went against company policy. Three years 

later fellow member Minami Minegishi was 

forced to make a public apology after pictures 

of her leaving her partner’s apartment were 

published in a tabloid newspaper. As an act 

of contrition she shaved her head in a video 

viewed by millions on YouTube (bit.ly/TWMinegishi). 

Takumi Saitoh (photo: ©Mika Ninagawa) 

The no dating rule doesn’t just apply 

to idols from AKB48. In 2014 Miho Yuki 

and Sena Miura were fired from the group 

Aoyama Saint Hachamecha High School 

because they were going out with fans. A 

lawsuit for over ¥8.2 million was filed as a 

result. Another unnamed agency sought an 

amount of ¥9.9 million in damages from a 

client because the (also unnamed) star was 

in a relationship with a fan. Judge Katsuya 

Hara dismissed the claim, however, stating, 

“the enrichment of one’s life that comes 

from association with the opposite sex is 

covered under the right of self-determination 

... prohibiting such associations is going 

too far.” 

Not all judges feel the same, though. 

Last year Tokyo District Court Judge Akimoto 

Kojima ordered a former idol to pay 

¥650,000 to her ex-company because she had 

an illicit liaison with a member of the public. 

“In order to secure the financial support of 

male fans, a clause prohibiting relationships 

was necessary,” he said. 

The fact is celebrities are more marketable 

when they’re single. A day after actor 

and singer Masaharu Fukuyama announced 

his marriage to actress Kazue Fukiishi, the 

stock price of his company, Amuse, fell by 

8.3%, roughly a four billion yen loss in just 

24 hours. This kind of situation is a major 

concern for all talent agencies including the 

country’s most powerful organization, Johnny 

& Associates. 

The famed corporation, which represents 

only male artists, doesn’t ban its members 

from dating, but it clearly keeps a degree of 

control over who they can and can’t see and 

what age they should think about settling 

down. Last year Arashi’s Satoshi Ohno was 

forced to apologize to fans when rumors that 

he had a live-in girlfriend surfaced. He denied 

it and promised to never see her again, keeping 

up the façade that he’s young, free and 

available. Unsurprisingly, marriage is also 

Minami Minegishi’s tearful apology drew millions 

of hits on YouTube 

Yusuke Iseya turns to face the camera 


for “Bunshun” and an 

exposé as big as the 

2012 Jimmy Saville 

sexual abuse scandal 

in the UK. You’d have 

expected it to have 

been on the front page 

of every newspaper in 

the country, yet not one 

word was written or 

spoken about it by the 

Japanese media. 

Turning a blind 

IT WAS AS BIG AS 

THE JIMMY SAVILLE 

SEXUAL ABUSE 

CASE, YET NOT 

ONE WORD WAS 

WRITTEN 

eye to the iniquitous 

goings-on of a 

talent agency is all too 

head of the organization that looks after 

common in Japan. In 

stars like Sumire, Kiki Sukezane and Junichi 

2013 the former Miss 

Ishida, told us she only had the interests of 

International, Ikumi 

her clients at heart. 

Yoshimatsu, spoke to 

“At this office we look for the kind of jobs 

both domestic and 

our artists want to do then leave it up to them 

international reporters 

to decide,” she said. “Of course we’ll offer 

about the actions of 

advice, but we certainly won’t demand that 

Nanami 

discouraged. According to the weekly magazine 

“Shukan Bunshun,” when an idol from 

Johnny’s announces he wants to tie the knot, 

his manager will arrange a meeting to show 

him statistics on how much his popularity 

will decline if he goes through with it. Many 

subsequently change their minds. 

For head honcho Johnny Kitagawa it’s all 

about maintaining power. While his clients 

may be seen as superstars in the eyes of their 

followers, within the company they’re simply 

employees working under tight restrictions. 

They’ve no rights to their music and therefore 

receive no royalties. They’re not allowed to 

receive gifts from fans and are banned from 

engaging with them on SNS. This tight rein of 

control also stretches to the press. Criticism 

is not tolerated and could lose media outlets 

access to the agency’s biggest names. It’s a 

price most aren’t prepared to pay. 

One of the few exceptions is “Shukan 

Bunshun.” In 1999, the weekly magazine 

published a 10-part series accusing Kitagawa 

of sexually abusing young boys who’d previously 

worked for him. The story was based 

on the accounts of 12 minors, including one 

12-year-old, who all spoke on condition of 

anonymity. Similar allegations had previously 

been made by former idols Junya Hiramoto 

and the late Koji Kita (Four Leaves). The 

music mogul denied everything and decided 

to sue the magazine for defamation of character 

on eight counts. The lower court ruled 

in his favor on four, ordering “Bunshun” to 

pay him ¥8.8 million. The high court then 

reversed the decision relating to the sexual 

exploitation of adolescents, reducing the 

penalty to ¥1.2 million. 

Kitagawa managed to avoid a criminal 

investigation as the statute of limitations had 

passed; however, it was a significant victory 

a top executive at the 

high-profile agency 

K-Dash, alleging that 

he’d harassed, threatened and stalked her 

after she’d refused to join the company 

due to concerns over their links with the 

yakuza. The story was widely covered by 

the foreign press, but once again ignored 

by journalists here. Disillusioned by the 

way she was treated, Yoshimatsu decided 

to move to America. 

“Starting work in the US was like 

emerging out of the dark ages into the 

light,” the 29-year-old recently told Weekender. 

“You have retirement funds, health 

cover and actors’ unions protecting workers’ 

rights. Clients have various agents 

representing them in different areas like 

theater and TV. These agents work on a 

commission basis and are regulated by 

laws. It allows for complete autonomy and 

self-control of your own career. You can 

make a change should you feel one member’s 

not representing you well enough. 

“In Japan, once a shady agency with 

ties to organized crime declares ‘ownership’ 

over an individual, either with or 

without a proper contract, nobody else in 

the small Japanese entertainment industry 

will work with that person out of fear of 

what may be ‘attached’ to them. For women 

here, stories of forced prostitution in 

order to work regularly echo throughout 

society. Then when a ‘talent’ outlives their 

usefulness they’re often thrown out with 

no money, no retirement package and no 

benefits of any kind.” 

Whilst very critical of the Japanese 

system in general, Yoshimatsu was keen 

not to paint everyone with the same brush, 

stating that were “some great agencies in 

Japan doing a good job of representing 

their clients.” Sky Corporation claims to 

be one of those agencies. Fumiko Honma, 

they take this or turn that down. It’s important 

they have no regrets.” 

It’s the kind of comment you’d expect 

to hear from every talent agency, yet far 

too many continue to treat their clients like 

pieces of meat. Of course this won’t stop 

people signing for them as these companies 

provide a gateway to a world of fame and 

fortune. It’s a world Nanami would like to 

be part of; however, she’s not prepared to 

sacrifice her own freedom and integrity in 

order to get there. 

“Being without an agency is probably 

hindering my chances of getting auditions 

right now, but I can’t afford to rush in and 

sign with the first one that makes me an 

offer,” she says. “I understand why people 

do; it’s very tempting. For me, though, the 

conditions have to be right so I’m doing lots 

of research. If you’re going to join a company 

you need to know its background fully before 

you join, otherwise you could end up ruing 

your decision for the rest of your career.” 

Ikumi Yoshimatsu (photo: Michael Tullberg/Getty Images) 



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“Muromachi Resonance” (original for 2016 solo show invitation), 2016, Pencil, pen, watercolor on paper, 28.8 x 19.2 cm, © YAMAGUCHI Akira, Courtesy Mizuma Art Gallery 

TAKE A NEW VIEW 

Autumn will come and go before you know it, so we’ve put together a 

collection of parties, festivals, concerts, and gallery exhibitions to help 

you make the most of November – inside or out. 


Shopping Mall (detail), 2015, oil, sumi (Japanese ink) on canvas, 130 x 324cm, ©YAMAGUCHI Akira, Courtesy Mizuma Art Gallery 

ART & THEATER 

YAMAGUCHI AKIRA – “MUROMACHI RESONANCE” 

Yamaguchi Akira’s paintings simply must be seen in person: his massive canvases depict wide-ranging scenes, filled with intricate details 

and figures from a variety of time periods; the overall effect is both mesmerizing and heavily anachronistic. Yamaguchi is becoming an 

increasingly well-known figure on the Japanese art scene, but the rest of the world has yet to discover this singular talent. Now’s the 

chance, as he’s showing at Mizuma Art Gallery for the first time in six years. Mizuma Art Gallery Until December 17 mizuma-art.co.jp 

THE ART WORLD 

OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS 

Compiled by Alec Jordan and Bunny Bissoux 

ASTONISHING MEIJI 

CERAMICS! THE WORKS 

OF MIYAGAWA KÔZAN 

Held at the temple that lies in the 

shadow of Tokyo Tower, this exhibition 

features the unique pottery 

of the pioneering artist Miyagawa 

Kozan. Takaukibori (or high relief) 

pieces are what the artist became 

known for, both in Japan and overseas 

– he even won awards at the 

Philadelphia Exposition of 1876 

for his exquisitely crafted ceramic 

pieces that are decorated with 

sculptures of plants and animals. 

Zojoji Treasures Gallery Until 

December 25 www.zojoji.or.jp/ 

takara/event 

Vase with Cat Motif, Photo: Royal Collection Trust / ©Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016 

Barrel-type lantern cloisonne style: pigeon on a cherry tree, Photo: Royal 

Collection Trust / ©Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2016 


Yinka Shonibare MBE, Addio del Passato, 2011 Courtesy the artist and James Cohan Gallery, New York 

PERFORMING 

ARTS 

BODY/PLAY/POLITICS 

What makes a body beautiful or ugly, and how do we make these judgments? “BODY/ 

PLAY/POLITICS” presents a selection of contemporary works of art that explore the 

notion of “the body,” physically, spiritually, individually and collectively. This sometimes 

poetic, sometimes humorous exhibition provokes visitors to consider the assumptions 

and expectations we make about bodies, such as skin color, ethnicity and gender, in 

societies all around the world. Yokohama Museum of Art Until December 14 

yokohama.art.museum/special/2016/bodyplaypolitics 

IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA 

Directed by Josef E. Köpplinger, the adaptation of 

this comic opera composed by Giochino Rossini is 

set in 1960s Seville, during the Franco regime. 

(Nov 27-Dec 10) 

Yonaguni, Head shot 2015, ©Charlotte Dumas 

CINDERELLA 

Featuring a score by the great Sergei Prokofiev 

and choreography by Sir Frederic Ashton, this 

staging of the perennial favorite is performed by 

the National Ballet of Japan. (Dec 17-25) 

STAY – CHARLOTTE DUMAS 

The Dutch photographer Charlotte Dumas spent two years traveling the 

length and breadth of Japan, taking pictures of the country’s eight native 

horse breeds. Her large-format images capture the character of these noble, 

sensitive animals and the relationships with the land where they live and 

the humans they coexist with. As Gallery 916 explains, these are “portraits 

that burn into the soul because when she is looking at the horses, they are 

looking back.” Gallery 916 Until December 25 gallery916.com 

LA BOHÈME 

Composed by Giacomo Puccini, this beloved 

opera tells the beautiful, sad tale of four friends 

who live in a garret in Paris. Directed by Jun Aguni. 

(Nov 17-30) 

For schedule details and ticket information, visit 

www.facebook.com/newnationaltheatretokyo 


1 

3 

2 

4 

6 

7 

8 

5 

AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN NOVEMBER 

1 

NOV 1-13 

2 

NOV 11 

3 

NOV 1-6 

4 

NOV 12-13 

THOMAS RUFF 

RETROSPECTIVE 

The first retrospective of 

the renowned photographer to be 

exhibited in Japan. Highlights include 

his recent series “Nudes” and “Jpeg.” 

Where: The National Museum of 

Modern Art Tokyo 

How much: ¥1,600 

More info: tokyoweekender.com 

AKASAKA TORI NO ICHI 

This annual fair has been going 

since the Edo period, and 

includes plenty of traditional festivities. 

Don’t forget to wish for good luck and 

prosperity. 

Where: Otori Shrine and Chokokuji 

Temple in Akasaka 

How much: Free 

More info: www.torinoichi.jp/english 

ROB JUDGES: 

“WORD HAS IT” 

Canadian native Rob 

Judges’ latest exhibition explores 

words as objects in a unique series 

of modular paintings on square 

wood panels. 

Where: UltraSuperNew Gallery 



KAGURAZAKA 

STREET O-EDO 

TOUR 

Experience Japanese performing 

arts in Kagurazaka, an area that was 

once home to samurai and later 

became known for its 

traditional culture and instruments. 

Where: Around Kagurazaka 



NOV 11-13 

SAMEHEADS POP-UP 

JAPAN 

The eccentric art institution 

makes its way from Berlin to Tokyo, 

giving you the chance to browse 

selected collections straight from 

the Sameheads showroom. 

Where: Dog, Harajuku 

How much: Free entry 


6 NOV 1-28 

SHAUN THE SHEEP 

FARM CAFE WITH 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

Celebrate the 40th anniversary of 

Aardman Animations by munching 

Shaun the Sheep-themed treats at 

popular café Sunday Brunch. 

Where: Parco Kichijoji 

How much: Around ¥800-¥1,600 


5 7 

NOV 1-30 

YUKINORI YANAGI – 

WANDERING POSITION 

Winner of the Venice 

Biennale Aperto, Yukinori Yanagi 

is known for his humorous and 

powerful art. This exhibition covers 

his 30-year career. 

Where: BankART Studio NYK 



8 

NOV 19-20 

SHIBUYA STREET 

DANCE WEEK 

Billing itself as “the 

largest scale celebration of street 

dance,” this event includes several 

showcase performances and an 

all-day dance battle. 

Where: Around Shibuya Station 



42 | NOVEMBER AUGUST November 2016 | | | TOKYO WEEKENDER

11 

9 

10 

12 

9 

NOV 1-6 10 NOV 1-30 

TOKYO RAMEN 

SHOW 

Celebrate the beloved 

national noodle dish by trying out 

different specialities from across 

Japan, as well as exclusive dishes 

served only at this event. 

Where: Komazawa Olympic Park 

How much: Free entry, ramen ¥850 

per bowl 


NOV 1-30 

TOKYO UNDER- 

GROUND MYSTERIES 

This game will test your 

problem-solving skills, and your 

knowledge of the Tokyo Metro. 

Buy your game kit at Ueno Station, 

and then start sleuthing. 

Where: Starts at Ueno Station 



11 12 NOV 1-13 

DETROIT INSTITUTE 

OF ARTS EXHIBITION 

The Ueno Royal Museum 

features 52 masterpieces from 

the acclaimed Detroit museum’s 

collection, including work by Van 

Gogh, Gauguin, Monet, Picasso, 

Cezanne, and more. 

Where: Ueno Royal Museum 



ROB KIDNEY POPUP 

EXHIBITION “TRICKS 

4 SNACKS” 

British-born Rob Kidney’s art has a 

wide appeal with its vibrant colors, 

and charming content. This event 

features original work and goods. 

Where: Stranger, Daizawa 



TOKYO WEEKENDER | | NOVEMBER November 2016 | 43

Fall Fling 

Words by Natalie Jacobsen 

Break up the monotony of those work weeks and take advantage of these hot spots we’ve 

pinned during peak “koyo” (changing foliage) times. Want to stay overnight? Then check out 

our recommended ryokans, too 

IBARAKI FALLS 

Ibaraki lies a bit north of the neon 

epicenter: a Shinkansen from Ueno 

Station will get you there in just 

under 30 minutes for ¥5,000. 

The stunning Fukuroda Falls is a 

must for this autumn’s to-visit list. Situated 

in Ibaraki’s claim to fame, Hananuki Valley, 

the shape-shifting falls cascade through a 

valley of low hanging, brightly hued foliage 

throughout autumn. The boardwalks and 

criss-crossing bridges provide ample viewing 

and alternating perspectives of the falls 

and treetops. Some evenings, the park staff 

illuminates the falls in brilliant colors to 

create images and rainbow effects. 

A lesser-known koyo viewing spot, Hanazono 

Valley is home to lower-set, wide waterfalls 

and spectacular fall foliage. There are a 

large number of quiet temples and shrines 

in the area, adorned in reds and browns, 

blending into the seasonal color palette. 

WHERE TO STAY Nearby these falls is 

the famed Daigo community that harbors 

several luxury hot springs. The Omoide 

Roman-kan onsen (bit.ly/TWRomankan) is 

a monolithic ryokan that offers beautiful 

indoor (private) and outdoor (communal) hot 

springs to relax in. The views of the river and 

adjoining park make it a worthwhile visit. 

If you are looking to stay longer, Tsukuba 

Grand Hotel (bit.ly/TWTsukuba) offers pleasant 

accommodation and an outdoor onsen 

(rotemburo) with particularly lovely views. 

The rotemburo is open all hours, so guests 

can marvel at the glittering cities at night, or 

watch the fog roll in during sunrise, high up 

the mountain slope. 

CHIBA KOYO 

Tokyo’s neighbor Chiba has plenty more to offer 

the traveler than just Disneyland churros 

and Narita Airport, and fall is a perfect time 

to embrace all of the region’s treasures. 

For more adventurous types, Lake 

Kameyama is the ultimate destination. With 

boating, canoeing, and hiking options in the 

vicinity, the vast lakebed is a dream for the 

athletically active or the active photographer. 

Quaint bridges, solitary temple arches, and 

the occasional cavern provide much to do for 

families and independent explorers. 


[ PROMOTION ] 

And the koyo? About 20 minutes 

from Otaki Station, visitors clamor to 

see stunning panoramas of foliage in 

Tsutsumori Momiji Valley (literally: 

Valley of Fall-Colored Forests). The region 

includes old Otaki town, a “natural 

village,” the 100m long Awamata Falls 

and picturesque footbridges, Momiji 

Road (a 10km driving 

course through rows 

and rows of maple 

trees), and plays home 

to the Yoro Valley Fall 

Leaves Festival on 

November 23. 

WHERE TO STAY 

We have two suggestions. 

First is Taiyo no 

Sato Bettei Umi to Mori 

(bit.ly/TWTaiyo), an 

upscale luxury ryokan 

with private onsen 

options. Between the 

unobstructed sunrise 

views over the ocean, 

fusion Western and 

Japanese-styled rooms, and gourmet 

lobster dinners, it’s no surprise the 

rooms are constantly in high demand. 

A second option is the more affordable, 

but just as beautiful, Kamogawa Hotel 

(bit.ly/TWKamogawa). It has outdoor 

patios in the back gardens, and gazebos 

with strings of lights hanging over onsen; 

guests will find a mini paradise off the 

Chiba coastline, while 

being not too far 

from the parks and 

fall sights. 

YOU CAN 

TRULY ESCAPE 

AND CONNECT 

WITH NATURE, 

HOWEVER 

BRIEF THE 

VISIT 

GATEWAY TO 

THE ALPS 

Kamikochi is one of 

those idyllic locations 

that travel brochures 

flaunt, promising 

breathtaking hikes 

and colors. The truth? 

The area truly lives 

up to those images. 

Surrounded by the 

skyline of the Japanese 

Alps, Kamikochi 

can be reached by bus 

from Shinjuku Station. 

A mere two hours from 

the city, and you’ll be 

in the heart of “virgin” 

forests, and roaming 

one of the country’s 

beloved national parks. 

The area explodes 

in natural colors like 

fireworks during late 

fall. With the genuine 

peace and quiet and the 

relatively small crowds, 

you can truly escape and connect with 

nature, however brief the visit. 

WHERE TO STAY Due to the vastness 

and limited transportation, it is 

recommended to choose a side of the 

park to visit and stay in. What are 

the differences between them? The 

southern valley is 

home to Taisho Pond, 

and avid hiking fans 

often stay in that 

area for the research 

trails and access to 

Mt. Yakedake. Two 

spa inns, Nakanoyu 

(bit.ly/TWNakanoyu) 

and Sakamaki Onsen 

(bit.ly/TWSakamaki), 

will accommodate 

your every need, 

even helping with 

equipment rentals 

throughout the year. 

The northern 

side of Kamikochi 

features breathtaking 

Myojin Pond and Bridge, and the 

impressive Japanese Alps and Hotaka 

Mountain range begin close to here. 

Stay at the aptly named Kamikochi 

Imperial Hotel (bit.ly/TWKamikochi), 

which offers guests the option to stay 

in their hotel or in a private cabin – 

both have indoor and outdoor onsen, 

so the relaxation never stops. 

GET AWAY FROM 

TOKYO – IN TOKYO 

Of course, it’s possible to savor the fall 

foliage and escape the frantic pace of 

Tokyo without actually going beyond 

the city limits. An hour trip from the 

city center to the Tama area offers prime koyo 

viewing spots, and plenty else to do there. 

A short walk from Hatonosu Station on the JR 

Ome Line, Hatonosu (Dove’s Nest) Valley can be 

admired from a suspension bridge that looks out 

over the gorge some 40 meters below. A stunning 

sight any time of the year, it truly comes into its 

own in November, when the changing leaves turn 

the valley into a riot of colors. 

Take the JR Ome Line to its terminus, 

Okutama Station, and you can stroll around 

the Hikawa Keikoku, a river valley that shows 

off its finest hues in autumn. The area can best 

be explored via a four-kilometer walkway that 

goes from Okutama Station, alongside the Nippara 

and Tama Rivers, and past Mt. Atago. 

After a bit of foliage viewing in the chilly 

air, a soak in an onsen is the perfect way to 

warm up and the Moegi no Yu onsen, which is 

fed by a source of alkali waters that is believed 

to be the oldest in all of Japan. If you’d like to 

make a weekend of it, the Arasawaya Ryokan 

offers plenty of rustic charm, delicious meals, 

and the opportunity to hear folktales told by 

traditional forest storyteller Hiroji Arasawa. 

Aside from the fall foliage sights, those with 

an interest in traditional crafts can try their 

hand at indigo dyeing at Kosoen, a workshop 

that has been keeping this colorful tradition, 

which dates back well into the Edo period, going. 

You can browse the selection of handmade 

pieces, or take part in a mini-lesson and tie-dye 

a handkerchief or a light scarf. 

Finally, for the beer lovers, there’s no missing 

Beer Cafe Vertere. Just a few paces away 

from Okutama Station, a few pints of their 

home-brewed beer and their rotating selection 

of guest taps, as well as an assortment of pubstyle 

dishes, will have you riding the rails back 

home with a smile on your face. 

The Tama Promotion Project: tama120.jp/english 

Kosoen: www.kosoen.com 

Canyons Okutama: canyons.jp/en/areas/okutama/ 

canyons-okutama 

Moegi no Yu Onsen: www.okutamas.co.jp/moegi 

Arasawaya Ryokan: arasawaya.co.jp/en 

Beer Café Vertere: verterebrew.com/english 


People, 

Parties, Places 

TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY 

Bill with a few of the lovely ladies from the Miss 

Supranational Pageant at the New Sanno Hotel 

As I often write, Tokyo has to be one of the most interesting, 

busy, exciting and safe cities on this old planet. 

I do hope you love this city (and country) as much as 

I do. As often happens, I found Silver Week full of so 

many interesting happenings it was impossible to get 

to everything I really wanted to do. My schedule caught up with me as 

well and I had to miss two events I really wanted to go to in Odaiba. The 

first was Sri Lanka’s always fun, always interesting annual festival. The 

second was the Japan Association of Travel Agents’ annual travel fair. It 

was another one of those times I wished I had a clone. 

I did get to some really worthwhile musical events. One was a concert 

by young Japanese pop star/composer Jin Akanishi. I’ve known 

Jin for a long time, but never knew what a super talent he was. The 

Tokyo International Forum’s largest auditorium – A – was completely 

filled with his fans, and his show, where he sang many of his compositions, 

accompanied with great staging, fun fashion, and so much 

energy was a couple hours of really good entertainment. He’s gone 

through some difficult times, but worked hard and has really come 

out on top where he belongs – our congratulations. Another thing I’m 

sorry I missed was one of the performances of the Shaolin Monks at 

Bunkamura. I heard from friends that it was well worth seeing. 

It’s October 15 and I’m working on the column at one of Shibuya 

Segafredo’s outdoor tables. The weather’s beautiful, and people-watching 

is fun. By the time you read this, Halloween will have come and 

gone, but almost every day I see people dressed in fashions that could 

well pass as Halloween costumes. It’s amazing how Western things get 

so popular in Japan. I guess it’s all in good marketing. Checked out the 

nearby Don Quixote, and the selection of hundreds – I’m not exaggerating 

– of costumes, masks and Halloween decorations take up most 

of the first floor. I hope you and your kids visited National Azabu Supermarket 

before Halloween for their party. The parking lot, store and 

especially the second floor were really well decorated for the now very 

popular day. 

It was also nice having Hungarian actor and singer Mate Kamaras 

back in town. Kyodo Tokyo often brings him to Japan and he’s quite 

well known here. This time, he was here as a special guest in two shows 

– the “Cinema Musical Concert” and “Musical Songs and Pop Galore.” 

The last few years, I’ve helped Kyodo’s Shoko set up fan club parties for 

Mate at Midtown’s luxurious lounge. He really knows how to make the 

ladies laugh. He even had a few aggressive stalkers that he needed the 

police to help him out with! 

CEREMONY LUNCH AT RITZ CARLTON 

Thanks to Ceremony president Tsukasa Shiga, who I’ve known for 

over 30 years, I’ve been his guest along with some really interesting 

people, like lawyer Timothy Langley, Rotary Club’s international director 

Hiro Kobayashi, and plenty more at many of our city’s most 

prestigious hotels’ beautiful Japanese restaurants. All of the hotels 

really go all out to make their meals not only delicious but real works 

of art. The food and company were both great at the Ritz Carlton’s 

Hinokizaka Restaurant. The many-course meal was awesome, the service 

by Ayako (who lived in Australia for several years) and Eri was 

great, and the view was spectacular. It couldn’t have been nicer. It 

was also nice talking with Shiga and Kobayashi-san. 


PERUVIAN NATIONAL DAY 

+ FOOD FESTIVAL 

1. Pakistan Amb. Farukh Amil, Kumiko 

Meric, Kosova Amb. Designate Leon 

Malazo, Turkish Amb. Bϋlent Meric 2. 

Outgoing Romanian Amb. Radu Serban, 

his wife Maria 3. Mrs. Hamada, Israeli 

Amb. Ruth Kahanoff, popular politician 

Kazuyuki Hamada 4. The hosting couple, 

Peruvian Amb. Elard Escala, his wife 

Cristina 5. Dewi and her new alpaca 

friends – she loves animals 

1 2 

5 

3 4 

6 

7 

8 

11 12 

9 

10 

MOROCCAN NATIONAL 

DAY RECEPTION 

6. Popular politican Kenji Kosaka, 

Hisanaga & Takako Shimazu, Mrs. 

Kosaka 7. Moroccan Amb. Samir 

Arrour, Panama Amb. Ritter N. Diaz, 

his wife, Ayana 8. Kyoko Spector, 

Mika Mori, Utako Arrour, Maki 

Yamamoto 9. Japan’s famous chef, 

Yukio Hattori, Japan Aerospace’s Midori 

Nishiura 10. Hadogawa Country 

Club Pres. Arinori Yamagata, Sho 

and Mary Katayama (Aston-Martin) 

STEVE & PAULA’S 

SUNDAY BRUNCH AT 

THE SANNO 

11. Steven Haynes, Yuki Sonoda, 

Rina Matsuda, Yuika Tsutsumi, Risa 

Nagashima 12. Masashi Sato, Yukako 

Ono, Makoto Hayashi 13. Actor/model 

Hide Kusakari, Risa, dermatologist 

13 

Yoshiaki Horie (James), Masashi 

Sato, Yukako Ono, Makoto Hayashi 


NATIONAL AZABU 

ANNUAL BARBECUE 

1. Dutch clown/actor Rene Boseman, brothers 

Hugo and Victor 2. Trevor and Nina Webster 3. 

Komatsu Dept. Stores Nobuko Komatsu, her son 

Kei, and National Azabu’s Nakamura-san 4. Ian 

Muir, Mexican Counsellor/Chief of Mission Armando 

Arriaga, his wife Serok and daughter Antonia 

5. Tohokushinsha President/CEO Tetsu Uemura, 

History Channel’s Asia Ireton, National Bussan 

Division Director Mitsuo Nagakura 6. Healthy 

Tokyo’s Yasuko, David, and Mike & Miki Bobrove 

5 

1 2 

3 4 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 12 

POIGOSYAN’S NATION 

DAY RECEPTION 

7. Andrea Dominguez, Monica 

Riquetti (Uruguay), Dominican 

Republic Amb. Hector Dominguez, 

Uruguay Amb. Eduardo Bouzout 

Vignoli 8. Peruvian Amb. Elard 

Escola, Patrice Gobat, Lebanese 

charge d’affairs Abir Taha Audi, 

Iman Younels, Madeline Umewaka 9. 

The hosting couple, Armenian Amb. 

and Mrs. Pogosyan, Secretary of 

the Japan-Armenian Parliamentary 

Friendship League, Shunichi Suzuki 

10. Nairian (Armenian Natural 

Cosmetics), Promo Team Mako, 

Miyuki and Clair 11. Kyoko, Natalia, 

the Pogosyans’ son Tigran, and Mako 

12. Zambian Ambassador Mdiyoi 

Mutiti, Patrice 

48 | NOVEMBER OCTOBER 2016 | TOKYO | WEEKENDER

ESCALAS’ PERU NATIONAL DAY/FOOD FESTIVAL 

With the growing popularity of Peruvian food here in Japan, I easily understand 

why Peruvian Ambassador Elard Escala and his wife Cristina 

had a food festival at their Peruvian 195th Independence Day celebration. 

It was wall-to-wall people at their modern-designed embassy for 

the event – a “Pisco of Honor” & “Oishii Peru” evening. Guests enjoyed 

petting and having their photos taken with two really cute young alpacas. 

Cristina, always fashionable, wore a Peruvian scenery print kimono, 

which looked beautiful. The large party venue in the embassy 

had booths that featured 19 Peruvian food specialities, eight different 

drinks and four desserts. It was a totally enjoyable evening in every 

way. And if you haven’t had Peruvian food, you should visit “Aldo Peruvian 

Food & Bar” in Kita Aoyama. Telephone 03-6427-7223. 

A HAPPY REUNION 

It was great having several European friends back in Japan for a couple 

of weeks. These included Swiss/Polish medical student Michel Bielecki, 

his mother Ela, who was a top model in Europe for several years, his Italian 

Swiss university friend Patrice Gobat, and their San Francisco-based 

nuclear engineer friend Michael Merrill. Ela brought me lots of Swiss 

cheese and a dozen loaves of my favorite “mountain bread.” The international 

group are real party people, and enjoy club-hopping all around 

the world. They all love Japan, but I was surprised to hear that club life 

in London, Paris, Rome and New York is way ahead of what’s happening 

here in Tokyo. After pretty much running the Lex (Lexington Queen, 

New Lex) for about 35 years and checking out the scene recently, I can 

understand what they’re saying. More on this later. Ela showed me some 

photos of a really colorful and chic kimono she wore in Kyoto. She told 

me it took two hours to put on the 28 pieces for the pictures. It was time 

well spent: she looked marvelous. 

ARROURS’ MOROCCO NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION 

Moroccan Ambassador Samir Arrour has been a good friend since I first 

met him many years ago when he was counsellor and deputy chief at 

the embassy here seven years ago. He came back as Ambassador, and 

he and his wife Utako are a very popular couple. 

Their reception at the Okura to celebrate the 17th anniversary of 

the enthronement of H. M. King Mohammed VI as well as Morocco’s 

60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Japan and Morocco 

was a laid back and enjoyable evening for the many guests there. I 

enjoyed talking with popular Diet member Kenji Kosaka. His late and 

great father – a famous Minister of Foreign Affairs – was the man who 

first introduced me to H. M. King Mohammed VI when he visited Japan 

as the crown prince. 

STEVE HAYNES & PAULA JOHNSONS SANNO 

BRUNCH 

It was a very special group of very special people at Steve and Paula’s 

Sunday brunch at the New Sanno Hotel. The guests, as you can see by 

the photos, were mostly the contestants and judges for Steven’s Miss 

Supranational Pageant. The event’s winner was Risa Nagashima 

and Steve will take her to Warsaw in December for the 

international final. We certainly wish her all the best. If 

you’ve been to the Sanno’s legendary Sunday champagne 

brunch you know what a feast it is. I was surprised at how 

much the all slim beauty contestants ate and enjoyed it all. Including 

champagne and caviar, it’s all just ¥3,000. Find a friend who has US 

Military privileges and try it. Satisfaction guaranteed. 

When I asked one of the guests – super dermatologist Yoshiaki 

“James” Horie, who has modern clinics in Ebisu and China – if he 

could drop me off at the Grand Hyatt, he said “No problem.” I was 

really surprised when he made a call to his uniformed driver who 

drove me there in James’s beautiful new black Rolls-Royce. That was 

a treat and it really impressed my friends who work at the Grand 

Hyatt when I arrived. 

NATIONAL AZABU’S BARBECUE 

Close to 400 people got together in the parking lot of National Azabu Supermarket 

for their annual barbecue. In addition to all they could eat 

(steak, lamb, health food, and of course, paella), the late afternoon guests 

had the chance to see friends and meet many interesting people for the 

first time. Many food and health outlets had booths there, and they all 

kept busy. These included the store’s new fast delivery service honestbee, 

the healthy Tokyo Bento parlor, and the Tokyo American Club. There 

was also some great live music and a variety of children’s games. The 

store’s hard-working and always helpful staff really made the event an 

enjoyable one, where many of the guests came early and stayed late. Our 

congratulations on the success of it all. 

POGOSYAN’S ARMENIAN NATIONAL DAY 

It was wall-to-wall people at Armenian Ambassador Grant Pogosyan 

and his wife Natalia’s reception at the Okura Hotel to celebrate their 

country’s 25th independence anniversary. It was a full house that 

night with a lot of friends and other interesting people. The party 

started with short welcome speeches by Ambassador Pogosyan and 

Parliament member Shunichi Suzuki, who’s head of the Japan-Armenia 

Parliamentary Friendship League. I took Patrice Gobat, a Swiss/ 

Italian university student who was visiting here from Switzerland. 

He’s a super cool guy, and made many friends that evening. These, 

of course included the three Japanese models who were promoting 

the Armenian cosmetic line called Nairian. The Armenian food was 

excellent and the ambience warm. Our congratulations on a great 

celebration. 

TO DO 

It’s hard to believe the way time flies. Christmas is just around the 

corner. We all like to work ahead, and the International Ladies Benevolent 

Society (ILBS) is holding their Annual Christmas Bazaar 

early this year on Sunday, November 20, from 11am to 2:30pm at 

the Tokyo American Club. Entrance tickets and raffle tickets are just 

¥500. There are some great raffle prizes and all proceeds go to several 

worthwhile causes – hopefully we’ll see you there. 

I, Hilton Tokyo, and the Weekender will hold our annual party 

for Japanese orphans on December 6. If you are interested in helping, 

contact me on 090-3200-6767 or Momoko Gonohe at the Hilton on 

03-3344-5111. The kids are fantastic and we guarantee you 

and your child will have a great afternoon. By the way, a big 

thanks to the many of you who sent me clothes – especially 

shoes for kids in the Philippines. 

[ SPONSORED CONTENT ] 

A happy reunion – Swiss university student Michel 

Bielecki, Patrice Gobat, their friend Mike Merrill and 

Bill – at Hiroo Segafredo 

Rotary Club’s Hiro Kobayashi, Tsukasa Shiga, and 

the Ritz Carlton’s restaurant’s staff, Eri and Ayako at 

Hinokizaka Restaurant 

Michel Bielecki’s mother Ela, decked out in her 

28-piece kimono

Tokyo Weekender November 2016

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