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Eatdrink #62 November/December 2016

Local food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford and Southwestern Ontario since 2007

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />

№ 62 • <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE<br />

FREE<br />

Blessings &<br />

Offerings at<br />

Revival<br />

House<br />

in Stratford<br />

ANNUAL<br />

eatdrink<br />

Gift Guide<br />

INSIDE<br />

FEATURING<br />

The Big Bad Wolfes<br />

The Wolfe of Wortley<br />

Perth County Adventures<br />

An Inspiring Culinary Tour<br />

Historic Destinations<br />

Toronto’s Distillery District<br />

FOR THE HOLIDAYS: Dark Beers | Sparkling Wines | Craft Cocktails | Music | Theatre | Recipes


2 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Savour STRATFORD<br />

this season<br />

Find exceptional gifts in our downtown shops draped in fresh<br />

cedar boughs and sparkling lights. Listen for strolling musicians<br />

and meet Santa and Comet in Stratford’s magical winter<br />

wonderland. Be sure to enter our SHOP! STRATFORD Christmas<br />

draw for a chance to win even more Christmas cheer.<br />

Renew your holiday spirit at our Christmas sing-a-long and<br />

Handel’s Messiah with the Stratford Symphony Orchestra.<br />

Savour the flavours of the season with friends at the Outdoor<br />

Christmas Market. Gather together at inspired dinners in cozy<br />

restaurants and Stratford Chefs School dinners and lunches.<br />

Come celebrate our festive season.<br />

Plan your escape at visitstratford.ca<br />

@SavourStratford<br />

@StratfordON<br />

StratfordON<br />

Stratford,<br />

Ontario<br />

VisitStratfordON


Celebrate the<br />

Holidays<br />

Our Festive Buffets and<br />

Brunches Have Returned!<br />

Grand Hall Festive Lunch Buffet<br />

<strong>December</strong> 5 th – 23 rd<br />

(Monday – Friday)<br />

Festive Sunday Brunch<br />

<strong>December</strong> 4 th , 11 th & 18 th (Sundays)<br />

Reservations required.<br />

Experience the<br />

Windermere Difference:<br />

exceptional banquet facilities<br />

for holiday gatherings<br />

stay the evening at our onsite<br />

spacious and welcoming<br />

guest suites<br />

enjoy our intimate and<br />

welcoming Restaurant<br />

Ninety one<br />

ample complimentary parking<br />

Windermere Manor &<br />

Restaurant Ninety One<br />

200 Collip Circle, London ON<br />

(at the Research Park)<br />

Please call our holiday line<br />

519-858-1391 x 20430<br />

or 1.800.997.4477<br />

windermeremanor.com


eatdrink<br />

<br />

inc.<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

Think Global.<br />

Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor<br />

Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell, Darin Cook,<br />

Gary Killops, Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery,<br />

Wayne Newton, Darcy S. O’Neil,<br />

Sue Sutherland Wood, Tracy Turlin.<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

© <strong>2016</strong> eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in<br />

eatdrink or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the<br />

written permis sion of the Publisher. eatdrink has a printed<br />

circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually. The<br />

views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/or<br />

advertisements published in eatdrink or online are solely those<br />

of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of the<br />

Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no<br />

responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Read every issue online,<br />

no matter which device you prefer.<br />

Every Page • Current Issue • Back Issues<br />

Plus!<br />

New Stories Only Online<br />

Plus!<br />

OUR COVER<br />

Stratford’s Revival House owners<br />

Candice and Rob Wigan proudly<br />

show off the restaurant’s main<br />

dining room.<br />

Photo by Nick Lavery of Take 5 Digital<br />

(www.t5digital.com)<br />

focused on using only the freshest, local, and seasonal ingredients<br />

A boutique, farm-to-table, custom, everything-from-scratch (even the ketchup) Caterer<br />

serving London & Area with different and unique ideas Corporate<br />

Catering<br />

www.heirloomcateringlondon.com 519-719-9030 Specialists


Join Downtown London for the annual<br />

Winter Light Christmas Walk<br />

<strong>November</strong> 18-19, <strong>2016</strong><br />

GIVE LOVED ONES<br />

THE GIFT OF A<br />

DELICIOUS MEAL<br />

162 Wortley Road, London ON N6C 3P7<br />

info@plantmatterkitchen.com<br />

519.660.3663<br />

#PLANTMATTERKITCHEN<br />

GOOD FOOD & GOOD TIDINGS!<br />

ALL SEASON LONG<br />

FROM EVERYONE AT PMK<br />

BRUNCH, LUNCH, DINNER, DRINKS<br />

plantmatterkitchen.com


contents ISSUE № 62<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER <strong>2016</strong><br />

10<br />

16<br />

20<br />

24<br />

50<br />

58<br />

65<br />

FOOD WRITER AT LARGE<br />

10 Perth County Adventures: An Inspiring Culinary Tour<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

16 Blessings and Offerings at Revival House, in Stratford<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

20 The Big Bad Wolfes: The Wolfe of Wortley, in London<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

ROAD TRIPS<br />

24 Historic Destinations: Food, Fun & Shopping in Toronto<br />

By WAYNE NEWTON<br />

CULINARY RETAIL<br />

30 The EATDRINK Gift Guide<br />

NEW & NOTABLE<br />

38 The BUZZ<br />

ANNUAL<br />

eatdrink<br />

Gift Guide<br />

BEER MATTERS<br />

45 Try Something New: Ontario Craft Dark Beer!<br />

By WAYNE NEWTON<br />

30<br />

WINE<br />

48 Four Sparkling Recommendations for the Holiday Season<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

SPIRITS<br />

50 Pleased as Punch!<br />

By DARCY S. O’NEIL<br />

52 Craft Cocktails<br />

Compiled by BRYAN LAVERY<br />

THE CLASSICAL BEAT<br />

55 Sounds of the Season<br />

By NICOLE LAIDLER<br />

38<br />

THE BUZZ<br />

VARIOUS MUSICAL NOTES<br />

58 Award-Winning Musicians at a Venue near You<br />

By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />

THEATRE<br />

60 The Magic of Holiday Theatre<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

BOOKS<br />

63 Chicken in a Mango Tree<br />

by Jeffrey Alford<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

COOKBOOKS<br />

65 The Baker in Me<br />

by Daphna Rabinovitch<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

THE LIGHTER SIDE<br />

70 Wrapping Up the Holidays<br />

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD<br />

45<br />

63


a step closer to Italy...<br />

Family-owned & operated, siblingsTina and Len<br />

are celebrating 10 years of bringing a genuine<br />

taste of Italy to Chatham. In homage to their<br />

mother Maria, they insist upon from-scratch<br />

cooking using the best of local ingrendients.<br />

The restaurant is sophisticated yet approachable.<br />

A beautiful patio overlooks the Thames River.<br />

Catering and two well-appointed<br />

private function rooms are available.<br />

231 King Street West, Chatham<br />

519-360-1600<br />

Open for Dinner Daily / Lunch Monday-Saturday<br />

www.mammamariasristorante.ca<br />

HOLIDAY<br />

PARTY<br />

SPECIALISTS<br />

BOOK YOUR<br />

PARTY TODAY!<br />

Frendz is run by the creative team of Brenda<br />

Boismier and Chef Marc King. The warm, cozy<br />

Resto/Lounge is designed for friends to gather for<br />

good food and good times. Weekend entertainment<br />

features local talent. The upscale yet affordable<br />

menu features international cuisine, prepared from<br />

scratch, from Spanish tapas to steak and seafood.<br />

Craft beer and an extensive drink menu is on offer.<br />

216 King Street West, Chatham<br />

519-436-1313<br />

Open Tuesday–Saturday for Lunch & Dinner<br />

www.frendzlounge.com<br />

a step closer to<br />

Please<br />

home...<br />

join us!


8 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

notes from the publisher<br />

Top 10 Tips for the Wine & Food Show<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

I<br />

am always excited to present the<br />

Holiday Issue. Parties, gifts, and time<br />

with family are all on the agenda and<br />

our writers have done their best to<br />

help guide you to success in every aspect of<br />

this festive time. On behalf of everyone here,<br />

I wish you all the very best of the season.<br />

It’s not too early to think about the London<br />

Wine and Food Show running January 19–21.<br />

This event, in its 12th year, has grown so popular<br />

that it is prudent to make your plan early,<br />

before we distribute our first issue of 2017.<br />

The show promises another enticing<br />

mix of local chefs, restaurateurs,<br />

wineries, brewers and distillers,<br />

tasting seminars, stage presentations,<br />

industry experts and entertainment.<br />

To help you make the most of<br />

it, we present our Top 10 Tips.<br />

Pick the right day to attend. Thursday<br />

1 is generally much less crowded, offering<br />

the best opportunity to chat with and learn<br />

from the exhibitors. Friday and Saturday<br />

bring a more intense party atmosphere — it’s<br />

fun! — but busier. Friday is also Ladies Night,<br />

with some unique presentations.<br />

Get enough sample tickets. Start with at<br />

2 least 20 tickets, 30 for a couple. (You can<br />

share some samples.) You can buy more later.<br />

Save money on Thursday. New, the<br />

admission price will be lower on Day One.<br />

3<br />

4<br />

Don’t arrive at peak times. Attendance<br />

levels are constantly monitored for<br />

safety reasons, and line-ups frequently occur<br />

on Friday and Saturday between 5–8pm.<br />

Dress warmly. Despite your best effort,<br />

5 outside line-ups can occur. There is a<br />

complimentary coat check in the front lobby.<br />

Do not bring children. No one under<br />

age 19 can enter, including babies.<br />

6<br />

7<br />

Have a plan to get home safely.<br />

There are non-alcoholic options,<br />

but if you might over-indulge, bring<br />

a DD, use Diamondz Designated<br />

Drivers (the show’s official<br />

service), or plan to take a cab.<br />

8<br />

Buy your tickets early.<br />

Tickets are available in<br />

advance and online. They<br />

guarantee admission and speedier<br />

entry. www.londonwineandfoodshow.com<br />

Attend a Tasting Seminar. Register for<br />

9 these free events one hour prior to their<br />

time slot. Spots go quickly!<br />

10<br />

Plan ahead. Visit the website to<br />

see the lists of exhibitors, stage<br />

presentations and tasting seminars. Make<br />

the most of your time, and enjoy!<br />

Stunning Views<br />

Excellent Food<br />

Ambiance Galore<br />

Now Booking Christmas<br />

Parties at Both Locations<br />

TUES, WED, FRI, SAT, SUN 11am–5pm<br />

THURS 11–9 • Closed MON<br />

Available for Private Events for up to 60<br />

rhinolounge.ca | 519.850.5111<br />

at<br />

MUSEUM<br />

LONDON<br />

421 ridout st.<br />

HOLIDAY SPECIAL<br />

Pick Up & Reheat<br />

Turkey Dinners $24pp<br />

TUESDAY to FRIDAY, 11–4<br />

SUNDAY Brunch, 11–4<br />

Available Evenings for Private Events<br />

theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287


Gift Certificates +<br />

Seasonal Gift Baskets<br />

Available!<br />

Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Roasts and<br />

Hams for the<br />

Holidays<br />

Comfort<br />

Food<br />

Specialties<br />

Quality...<br />

Christmas<br />

Themed<br />

Salamis<br />

Merry Makers Fair<br />

Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 13, 11am–3pm<br />

Upstairs on the Mezzanine, you’ll find some of<br />

the best handmade shopping around, from art,<br />

home decor, jewelry, clothing, bath & beauty<br />

products. Get a jump start on your Christmas<br />

list, and support local at the same time!<br />

Fibre Art Festival & Sale<br />

Friday, <strong>November</strong> 18, 10am–5pm;<br />

Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 19, 8:30am-5pm;<br />

Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 20, 11am-3pm<br />

Art for the Individual and the Home! Shop for<br />

locally made fibre creations on the Mezzanine.<br />

The Festival of Trees<br />

<strong>November</strong> 23–27<br />

Our annual fun<br />

family-friendly<br />

event includes<br />

specially decorated<br />

trees and wreaths<br />

that can be<br />

taken home by<br />

lucky winners<br />

in support of the<br />

Ontario Lung<br />

Association, Breakfast and photos with Santa,<br />

Santa’s Secret Shoppe and more. Please check<br />

our website for more details about this event.<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London.<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products


10 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

food writer at large<br />

Perth County Adventures with<br />

Stratford Tourism Alliance & Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Recently I participated in a tour of<br />

Perth County with Cathy Rehberg<br />

from Stratford Tourism Alliance<br />

(STA) and Agatha Podgorski from the<br />

Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA).<br />

They know how to set the benchmark of<br />

industry best practice for culinary tourism.<br />

The initial segment included stops at<br />

Kandy Cosstick’s Kandy Cakes and lunch at<br />

Monforte on Wellington, the down-to-earth<br />

Stratford osteria which features seasonal<br />

house specialties inspired by cheeses from<br />

the Monforte Dairy repertoire.<br />

We toured the new home of the Stratford<br />

Chefs School on Ontario Street while it was<br />

still under construction. Double<br />

storefront units are being<br />

repurposed into teaching<br />

kitchens and a 50-seat restaurant<br />

with a great street presence.<br />

The new facility allows<br />

the school to merge its teaching<br />

operations into one campus,<br />

and makes it feasible to<br />

add an additional semester<br />

in the summer months. Stratford<br />

Chef School is not only<br />

known for producing great<br />

chefs but also entrepreneurs.<br />

The next leg of the tour<br />

included stops and tastings at<br />

the Black Swan Brewing Company<br />

on Downie Street, operated<br />

by former local teachers<br />

Bruce Pepper and Ryan Stokes.<br />

We moved on to Downie Street<br />

Burgers where we sampled the<br />

signature poutine with bacon<br />

and tomato jam and St. Albert<br />

cheese curds covered in gravy.<br />

Here we also quaffed a pint of<br />

Black Swan’s Berliner Weisse.<br />

Next on the itinerary<br />

was Mike Heisz’s distillery,<br />

Junction 56, located in the former Pounder<br />

Brothers Building beside the Cambria Street<br />

railway tracks. We toured the distillery and<br />

tasted Heisz’s award-wining vodka, gin, and<br />

signature moonshine. You can stop by for a<br />

taste and a tour Saturdays at 11 am and while<br />

you are there you can purchase some locally<br />

crafted spirits for the holiday season.<br />

Since one of the region’s main fortes is<br />

accommodating visitors to the Stratford<br />

Festival in season, the area has a robust<br />

culinary culture dedicated to serving<br />

them. Only recently has it been feasible for<br />

many of the restaurants to operate year-round.<br />

Every Stratford restaurant worth its salt<br />

has owners and chefs<br />

dedicated to a balance of<br />

principles and procedures<br />

in an effort to offer a<br />

memorable and hospitable<br />

dining experience.<br />

Some restaurants and<br />

accommodators do this<br />

much better than others.<br />

Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall<br />

+ Hotel is one. Chef Ryan<br />

O’Donnell’s menus feature<br />

items that are meant to be<br />

shared communally and<br />

reflect Mercer’s passions for<br />

the craft beer movement,<br />

and for building community.<br />

Chef prepared a multicourse<br />

tasting for our party<br />

showcasing his gastronomic<br />

oeuvre. The menu itself<br />

is an education on Perth<br />

County food procurement<br />

and is designed to appeal<br />

to the local community as<br />

well as visitors. The way we<br />

Sampling at Black Swan<br />

Brewing Company


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 11<br />

Mercer Kitchen +<br />

Beer Hall + Hotel,<br />

offers a memorable<br />

and hospitable<br />

experience<br />

Station building in St. Thomas, Ontario.<br />

The next part of our trip was through<br />

gently rolling landscape dotted with farms<br />

on the outskirts of the historic stone town<br />

of St. Marys. Here lies the pastoral 50-acre<br />

Transvaal Farm. Cindy Taylor and husband<br />

Scott McLauchlan are the epitome of<br />

hospitality and provide an informative<br />

agritourism experience. Besides meeting “the<br />

girls,” a bevy of Rhode Island Reds, the main<br />

elements of this adventure are a tour of the<br />

farm property by Scott McLaughlan, a lavish<br />

eat has become<br />

multicultural<br />

which is<br />

evidenced by O’Donnell’s selection of<br />

enticing ethnic-inspired menu items.<br />

We began our second day at Anne<br />

Campion’s Revel located in a former feed<br />

store off Stratford’s Market Square. Its tagline<br />

is “independent coffee for a revolution”. This<br />

community hub includes a custom-made<br />

communal table where we assembled for<br />

coffee and samples of delicious in-house<br />

baking. Campion explains that Las Chicas<br />

del Café coffee beans originate on a 100-<br />

acre plantation in the Nicaraguan rainforest<br />

that has been in the sisters’, Maria Fiallos’<br />

and Valeria Fiallos-Soliman’s, family<br />

for generations. Campion bypasses the<br />

usual fair trade purveyors which require<br />

a multipart system of red tape. Instead,<br />

Campion buys her beans by direct trade<br />

which allows for a committed personal<br />

relationship with the growers. The sisters<br />

roast and package these beans at their<br />

facility in the historic (CASO) Railway<br />

A Locally Sourced Restaurant.<br />

Run by workers. Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

NOSH MONDAY Returns!<br />

{ }<br />

Beer Dinner and Supper Club<br />

events return for the winter season!<br />

See our Facebook page for details.<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

64 Wellington St, Stratford<br />

www.redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

Closed TUES & WED


Calling All<br />

Soup Addicts!<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

CHEF<br />

Owned &<br />

Operated<br />

40+ recipes in rotation, serving hot soup daily<br />

for lunch and frozen in take-home containers<br />

Fresh, Local & In-Season Ingredients<br />

Dairy-Free, Gluten-Free, Vegan & Vegetarian Recipes<br />

No Added Preservatives or MSG<br />

Bringing Quality & Comfort Home<br />

98 Wellington Street, Stratford<br />

519.497.5167<br />

www.soupsurreal.com<br />

Full flavour descriptions on our website &<br />

follow us on FB & Twitter for daily menus<br />

TUES-FRI 11-6; SAT 11-4; SUN Slow Food Market 10-2<br />

Enjoy a hospitable<br />

agritourism experience<br />

at Transvaal Farm, just<br />

outside St. Marys, and<br />

meet “the girls,” a bevy<br />

of Rhode Island Reds.<br />

farm-to-table breakfast prepared by Cindy at<br />

the guest house, and a tour of the small-scale<br />

artisan goat cheese plant operated by Cindy’s<br />

brother, owner and cheesemaker of C’estbon<br />

Cheese Limited, George Taylor.<br />

Operations at C’estbon began as a<br />

retirement project for Taylor 16 years ago<br />

when he swapped a flock of sheep for a herd<br />

of Toggenburg and La Mancha goats. George<br />

began crafting small-batch cheese using<br />

only the milk from his own herd to create<br />

his proprietary C’estbon chèvre. In time,<br />

George relocated his goats to a neighbouring<br />

farm. The goat milk is now delivered from<br />

a local producer, Hewitt’s Dairy. True<br />

artisanal cheese can’t be mass-produced<br />

and is limited in quantity with specific<br />

characteristics deemed to be specialty in<br />

nature. Not a single item leaves C’estbon<br />

without George’s thumbprint on it.<br />

Stonetown Cheese on Perth County Line 8<br />

(Kirkton Road) was our next stop. Stonetown<br />

is a purveyor of Swiss mountain-style cheeses,<br />

hand-crafted by master cheesemaker Ramon<br />

Eberle. Using unpasteurized milk from<br />

farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s herd<br />

of Holsteins, Eberle creates three types of<br />

cheese. We are given a tour through the stateof-the-art<br />

milk receiving area, where the milk<br />

is brought to be processed and is heat-treated<br />

to 65° Celsius. The goal of using raw milk is to<br />

keep the cheese as natural as possible, so that<br />

it ripens nicely and the flavours improve with<br />

maturation. In another area the cheese curds<br />

are stirred, separated from the whey and<br />

pressed into wheels before they are brined.<br />

There are three very large and impressive<br />

maturation rooms for the aging of the cheese.<br />

The trio of stunning cheeses and other local


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

products are available to buy on-site at the<br />

farm store. I highly recommend a visit for<br />

cheese lovers.<br />

Next we had a casual pub lunch at downto-earth<br />

Little Red’s in downtown St. Marys.<br />

There were additional stops at McCully’s Hill<br />

Farm and Market for a tour of the bush in a<br />

horse-drawn wagon and an overview of the<br />

maple syrup processing facilities, and at The<br />

Best Little Pork Shoppe in Shakespeare.<br />

It is certainly invigorating to explore the<br />

bucolic countryside in and around Perth<br />

County. Drop by the Stratford Tourism<br />

Alliance for culinary tours of another kind.<br />

Self-guided Bacon & Ale Trail and Chocolate<br />

Trail tours are available all year round and<br />

tickets are available at the Stratford Tourism<br />

Alliance. There is also a seasonal Maple Trail<br />

to look forward to in March and April.<br />

It is always inspiring and heartwarming<br />

to see dedicated culinary entrepreneurs<br />

and artisans in this area who embrace the<br />

benefits of building community engagement<br />

through food.<br />

30 ONTARIO ST.<br />

Stratford,<br />

Ontario<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large.<br />

dining + weddings + receptions<br />

concerts + dinner shows<br />

For parties tour of groups 2 or 200, + private in three functions<br />

gorgeous rooms<br />

REVIVAL … our inspired dining + events venue<br />

BELFRY … a chill upstairs gastrolounge<br />

CONFESSION … Stratford’s VIP hideaway<br />

BOOK YOUR<br />

HOLIDAY<br />

PARTY<br />

WITH US<br />

Whether you are planning a<br />

party for the office or for<br />

family & friends, we would<br />

love to host!<br />

With custom menus from<br />

both kitchen and bar, we will<br />

work together to create the<br />

perfect atmosphere for<br />

anything from a<br />

casual cocktail party to a<br />

formal seated dinner.<br />

70 Brunswick St.<br />

Stratford<br />

519.273.3424<br />

celebrate@revival.house<br />

For reservations, sample menus<br />

or more information, please call<br />

519-273-5886<br />

www.themillstone.ca<br />

inquiries@themillstone.ca


PRESENTED BY<br />

14 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

#LdnWineFood<br />

@WesternFair<br />

WesternFairDistrict


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 15<br />

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SAMPLING OF THE FINEST CUISINE,<br />

WINES, BEERS, SPIRITS & ENTERTAINMENT.


16 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

restaurants<br />

Blessings and Offerings<br />

at Revival House in Stratford<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY | Photography by NICK LAVERY<br />

The once-celebrated Church<br />

Restaurant, previously Mackenzie<br />

Memorial Gospel Church, is now<br />

Revival House. The inspired and<br />

ambitious revitalization of the former Grand<br />

Dame of Stratford’s culinary scene took<br />

restaurateurs Rob and Candice Wigan just over<br />

seven months to complete.<br />

The location and the building’s architectural<br />

features and spacious interior inspired<br />

its original transformation. The property<br />

remains one of Ontario’s finest instances of<br />

the conversion of a historic property into a<br />

hospitality venue done with integrity and<br />

respect for the cultural heritage.<br />

Revival House is the Wigans’ second<br />

restaurant rejuvenation in Stratford. The<br />

couple purchased Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub in<br />

2008 and put their own unique stamp on every<br />

aspect of that business.<br />

The beautifully restored Revival House is<br />

decorated in a mix of wood, exposed brick,<br />

light walls, gold railings, and ecclesiastical<br />

purple accents and banquettes.<br />

Ornamenting the bright interior are original<br />

light fixtures and stained glass windows. The<br />

dark-wood organ pipes provide a striking<br />

backdrop for the stunning curved bar that is<br />

crowned with a theatrical copper chandelier<br />

that was built by former Stratford Festival<br />

prop maker Frank Holt. The main room,<br />

known as Sanctuary, has the elegance and<br />

simple beauty that comes with restrained<br />

taste. The room’s former elevated altar can<br />

easily be transformed into a stage or dining<br />

area because of the modular furnishings.<br />

In contrast the upstairs gastro-lounge<br />

The Belfry, a 65-seat venue, delivers an<br />

ambience that has been described as “exotic<br />

modern” with peacock blues, a vaulted<br />

Owners Candice and Rob Wigan


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

TOP: The beautifully restored main dining room at<br />

Revival House, viewed from the bar, and below, from<br />

one of the raised seating areas<br />

ceiling and a working copper fireplace<br />

that draws inspiration from the downstairs<br />

chandelier. The Belfry is welcoming and<br />

chic. Snuggled in the former organ loft<br />

overlooking the Sanctuary, Confession is the<br />

most intimate of the trio of spaces.<br />

The backstory of the Church Restaurant<br />

involves former Stratford Festival artistic<br />

director Robin Phillips. He was hired in<br />

1975 and spent six years directing many<br />

productions, cultivating fresh talent and<br />

reinvigorating the Festival. Phillips’ first<br />

season coincided with the opening of<br />

what would become the landmark Church<br />

Restaurant, by his partner, restaurateur<br />

Joe Mandel. Of note also is the fact that<br />

The Stratford Chefs School started in the<br />

kitchens back in 1983. The restaurant would<br />

later be sold to and operated by Mark Craft.<br />

I worked at The Church Restaurant when<br />

it was in its prime, in the mid-1980s. During<br />

those years Maggie Smith and her husband<br />

playwright Beverly Cross, like many wellknown<br />

thespians and celebrities, dined at<br />

The Church. They were among the crowd


18 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Chefs Andrew McLean,<br />

Loreena Miller, Amy Balfour,<br />

Zachary Voros<br />

Photo: Lafs Photography, Stratford<br />

of late night habitués who frequented The<br />

Belfry, which was The Church’s upstairs<br />

room and a popular pre- and post-theatre<br />

destination. The Belfry was the bastion of<br />

hospitality and completed many a visitor’s<br />

Stratford theatre experience.<br />

The Wigans met and recently befriended<br />

Joe Mandel, who provided historical context<br />

to The Church’s early days, which in turn has<br />

reinforced their vision. Candice explains that<br />

they have revived some of the traditions that<br />

made The Church such a popular hotspot in its<br />

heyday. Unlike its seasonal predecessor, The<br />

Belfry remains open for the winter months,<br />

offering a menu expressing the depth of Perth<br />

County’s food culture. Since opening, its<br />

menus have revealed a passion for using local<br />

and sustainable<br />

ingredients,<br />

showcasing noseto-tail<br />

cuisine and<br />

the best of what<br />

Ontario has to<br />

offer.<br />

This winter,<br />

chef Loreena<br />

Miller and her<br />

culinary team<br />

will bring back<br />

French country<br />

cuisine to The<br />

Belfry. Chef Miller<br />

explains that she<br />

shares a love for maple,<br />

duck fat and everything<br />

delicious and sinful<br />

that underpins French<br />

country cooking<br />

with Candice, whose<br />

maternal heritage<br />

originates in Quebec.<br />

Miller worked<br />

alongside previous<br />

chefs at Revival House,<br />

and her progression to head chef is the<br />

natural evolution. Joining Miller in the<br />

kitchen is Andrew McLean, known for his<br />

tenure at Rundles as sommelier and head<br />

waiter.<br />

Chef told me she recently invited some<br />

colleagues to help break down a pig. The<br />

restaurant is known for its charcuterie,<br />

which I have tasted on several occasions.<br />

On one visit the charcuterie board included<br />

house-cured lamb ham, duck prosciutto,<br />

wild boar rillettes, smoked trout rillettes,<br />

speck (smoked pork leg) and lonza (cured<br />

pork loin). Recently we sampled Miller’s<br />

potted chicken liver, a hearty mousse with<br />

pickled rhubarb and black pepper jam.<br />

There was a seminal gazpacho of tomato<br />

The menus at Revival<br />

House offer the best<br />

of Perth County’s<br />

producers and<br />

purveyors, served with<br />

a modern sensibility.


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

The Wigans in The Belfry, which<br />

overlooks the main dining area<br />

“A fun place to shop!”<br />

embellished with tomato gel, aioli and<br />

smoked paprika, and a delicate seared<br />

whitefish on warm greens with grilled<br />

polenta which made a perfect repast.<br />

The latest menu in The Belfry will revive<br />

French-styled cuisine, with an added<br />

modern sensibility. Expect to find dishes<br />

such as fresh oysters, Lyonnaise salad<br />

frisée, lardon, soft egg and pumpkin seed<br />

vinaigrette; bone marrow with parsley<br />

salad; poutine with Quebec cheese curds,<br />

gravy and rosemary fries; Croque Monsieur<br />

with sourdough, ham, gruyere cheese and<br />

béchamel; and salmon with braised fennel,<br />

celeriac, vichyssoise and dill. There is a<br />

well-chosen selection of VQA wines and an<br />

inspired cocktail list.<br />

Revival House is a sought-after venue for<br />

celebrations, conferences and weddings.<br />

Music continues to be an essential part of<br />

the programs and Revival House is home to<br />

the Stratford Summer Music’s cabaret and<br />

opera series. The staff hosted 22 weddings<br />

this year and events manager Alysha Ford<br />

has 23 weddings booked for next year. There<br />

is a stunning 48-seat garden terrace beside<br />

the Brunswick Street entrance. High Tea<br />

and Sunday Brunch add yet another layer of<br />

temptation to the offerings.<br />

A fifth-generation family<br />

business offering an eclectic<br />

range of items from the unusual to the useful.<br />

Thousands of items on two floors!<br />

WATSON’S CHELSEA BAZAAR<br />

84 Ontario Street, Stratford<br />

519-273-1790 www.watsonsofstratford.com<br />

118 Ontario St., Stratford<br />

519-814-9439<br />

themilkywhey.ca<br />

Revival House<br />

70 Brunswick Street, Stratford<br />

519-273-3424<br />

www.revival.house<br />

tues–thurs 11am–9pm; fri & sat 11am–1am;<br />

sun 11am–8pm; closed mondays<br />

reservations recommended<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large.<br />

Beautiful made-to-order gift baskets<br />

are available for the foodies on your list!


20 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

restaurants<br />

The Big Bad Wolfes<br />

Wolfe of Wortley hits the mark in London’s Wortley Village<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Justin and Gregg Wolfe upped the ante<br />

when they opened Wolfe of Wortley<br />

earlier this summer. The brothers,<br />

who initially found sustenance in<br />

music careers, are also the proprietors of<br />

downtown London’s red-hot retro diner<br />

The Early Bird, and its adjacent sibling, the<br />

piñata-themed Rock Au Taco.<br />

“The Bird,” as it is warmly referred to,<br />

has an idiosyncratic charisma. It features<br />

a menu of updated diner classics and new<br />

generation comfort foods. These are soulful<br />

dishes that include a king-sized “turducken<br />

club” made with smoked turkey breast,<br />

panko-fried chicken and duck bacon. Try<br />

the melt-in-your-mouth potato and cheddar<br />

perogies, or the Montreal smoked brisket<br />

which is brined on site and which helped<br />

cement the entrepreneurial brothers’ savvy<br />

culinary reputation.<br />

Gregg and Justin Wolfe<br />

The Wolfes brought authentic, affordable<br />

street-food-style tacos and tequila to<br />

downtown London. Rock Au Taco’s menu<br />

features cachette (beef cheek), lengua (beef<br />

tongue), carnita (pork shoulder), pescado<br />

(fish), and papas (potato) and frijoles<br />

(re-fried beans) fillings. They’re topped with<br />

freshly made salsas, pickled onions<br />

and other garnishes. There is a tequila<br />

list and a selection of ice-cold cervezas.<br />

Many progressive chefs use research<br />

and staging as an inherent part of their<br />

culinary development. (Staging is an<br />

unremunerated internship; a cook or a<br />

chef works temporarily in another chef’s<br />

kitchen to be exposed to new methods,<br />

techniques and cuisines.) Chef Justin<br />

Wolfe staged in Chicago at Graham<br />

Elliot, where he spent nearly seven<br />

months apprenticing and studying at<br />

the Michelin-starred restaurant. Then he<br />

was off to master butchery at Chicago’s<br />

Publican Quality Meats.<br />

Justin has worked as an event chef<br />

alongside Executive Chef Liaison Jamie<br />

FRONT: Jennifer Wolfe (Service Manager),<br />

Justin Wolfe (Owner/Executive Chef), Gregg<br />

Wolfe (Owner/Mixologist/Bartender)<br />

BACK: Josh Ward (Sous Chef), Kyle Rose (Chef<br />

de Cuisine)


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 21<br />

Simpson at The Culinary Vegetable Institute/<br />

Chef’s Garden in Milan, Ohio. He has<br />

participated in events with chef de cuisine<br />

Eli Kaimeth of Thomas Keller’s renowned<br />

Per Se in New York, and worked with<br />

Cortney Burns of the celebrated Bar Tartine<br />

(featuring some of San Francisco’s most<br />

experimental cuisine), and with Gunnar<br />

Gislason, the chef/restaurateur behind New<br />

Nordic cuisine at DILL in Reykjavík. And<br />

then there was a stint with chef and culinary<br />

scientist Kyle Connaughton formerly of<br />

the Fat Duck and now the groundbreaking<br />

Single Thread Farms Restaurant in<br />

Healdsburg, California.<br />

Every year Justin pitches in with other<br />

chefs, including Michael Smith, for Village<br />

Feast, a non-profit children’s charity based in<br />

Souris, Prince Edward Island, that supports<br />

initiatives to improve the lives of children.<br />

The brothers have been the talk of the<br />

city with their compact 24-seat restaurant in<br />

Wortley Village, which is complemented by a<br />

14-seat patio. This is casual but sophisticated<br />

noshing focusing on curing, pickling,<br />

fermenting and preserving, and featuring<br />

craft cocktails.<br />

The menu includes oysters: raw, coldsmoked,<br />

and grilled with Creole butter<br />

and parmesan. We ordered a half dozen<br />

shucked, cold-smoked, plump, meaty<br />

Malpeques bathed in 12-year old scotch<br />

and served under a dome with juicy orange<br />

segments and house-marinated cherries.<br />

When the lid was lifted the oysters appeared<br />

under a cloud of billowing smoke for<br />

dramatic effect.<br />

Chef du cuisine Kyle Rose excels at<br />

the craft of salting, smoking and curing<br />

primarily pork products to make salumi,<br />

which we know as charcuterie. The<br />

downstairs kitchen has a small temperatureand<br />

humidity-controlled meat chamber for<br />

the house-made salumi. There it develops<br />

the rounded savoury taste that comes from<br />

slow curing and ripening. The chamber<br />

features a “meat window” to showcase a<br />

diversity of hanging salumi. Justin gives Rose<br />

and sous chef Jason Ward lots of credit for<br />

embracing and delivering the restaurant<br />

concept that the Wolfes developed.<br />

We ordered the charcuterie board which<br />

was underpinned by technique and skill and<br />

the salumi had lots of deep flavours and good<br />

fat content. There is also culotello (the king<br />

of salumi — dry-cured ham) and very tasty<br />

TOP: Honeynut squash/ pumpkin spice/ pistachio/ sage<br />

MIDDLE: Chocolate/ orange/ passionfruit<br />

BOTTOM: Charcuterie (house cured): coppa, culatello,<br />

lonza


22 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

LEFT: Charcuterie/ pickles/<br />

mustards<br />

BOTTOM LEFT: Foraged<br />

mushrooms and toast<br />

BOTTOM RIGHT: Tongue in cheek/<br />

nappakraut/ pumpernickel/<br />

smaltznaise<br />

coppa (salt-cured from the pig’s neck) on offer.<br />

Snacks might include a creamy chicken<br />

liver brûlée, “pickled things”, bone marrow,<br />

clams and chicken fried oysters. We loved<br />

the “tongue in cheek” which was comprised<br />

of beef tongue wrapped in guanciale (cured<br />

pork jowl) served with “Nappakraut,”<br />

pumpernickel and shmaltznaise. (The<br />

origin of shmaltznaise is unclear. The term<br />

“schmaltz” is derived is from Yiddish,<br />

meaning «rendered animal fat», and the<br />

“naise” must stem from mayonnaise.)<br />

Nevertheless it was the perfect aioli-like<br />

accompaniment.<br />

House-made pastas include bucatini,<br />

served with smoked oyster, bacon, egg yolk<br />

and parmesan, and cheese gnocchi with<br />

beer mushrooms and mustard. The chicken<br />

fried oysters are served with dill, cucumber<br />

and hot sauce. Proteins have included<br />

steelhead trout, bison ribs and octopus. A<br />

colleague of mine talks up the octopus like<br />

it is the second coming. There is also whole<br />

chicken for two and sometimes a 17oz. rib<br />

eye. Menus change weekly.<br />

“Cocktail-wise Gregg likes to riff on the<br />

classics, taking something familiar, tried<br />

and tested and elevating it,” says, Justin. The<br />

cocktail menu was masterminded by Gregg,<br />

who started making his<br />

homemade infusions<br />

of bitters and syrups<br />

months in advance of the<br />

restaurant’s opening. The<br />

cocktail list features craft<br />

cocktails that are prepared<br />

with fresh ingredients,<br />

homemade mixers and<br />

premium liquors. Gregg<br />

is a bourbon devotee. His<br />

signature drink is a potent<br />

smoked Manhattan made<br />

with Bulleit Bourbon,<br />

Antica Formula (red<br />

vermouth), Angostura<br />

bitters and cherry vanilla bitters served in<br />

a cinnamon smoke-filled glass. Besides<br />

six signature cocktails there are interesting<br />

seasonal features, quality spirits, and flights of<br />

bourbon.<br />

There is a respectable bubbly on offer<br />

from winemaker Moray Tawse’s Redstone<br />

Winery in Beamsville, Ontario, and a great<br />

off-dry riesling from Redstone with lots of<br />

citrus notes. There is also a cabernet franc<br />

and pinot noir blend from Tawse. These are<br />

the Ontario offerings on a compact list.<br />

We were so enamoured by the food we<br />

finished the evening with pork belly for<br />

dessert.<br />

The takeaway? You won’t find more<br />

up-to-the-minute culinary savviness than<br />

at the Early Bird, Rock Au Taco and now the<br />

upscale Wolfe of Wortley.<br />

Wolfe of Wortley<br />

147 Wortley Road<br />

519-854-6004<br />

www.wolfeofwortley.com<br />

open tuesday–sunday from 5:00 pm<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at Large.


Welcome<br />

to<br />

Wortley Village<br />

“One of Canada’s<br />

Coolest Neighbourhoods”<br />

The Heart of Old South<br />

FA S HIONS & A C C E SSORI E S<br />

Opening in <strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Pure Ingredients<br />

Chef-Prepared Take-Home Meals<br />

House-Made Sauces and Preserves<br />

Gourmet Kitchen Items<br />

Baked Goods<br />

141 Wortley Road, London<br />

purebon.ca<br />

“Come see our newly expanded store. We’re excited<br />

to offer our neighbours more selection, with the same<br />

friendly service we take pride in.” — Dave Tuckey<br />

Tuckey<br />

136 Wortley Road, London<br />

519-432-7683<br />

Mon–Fri 8 am – 8 pm<br />

Saturday 8:30 am – 6 pm<br />

Sunday 10 am – 5 pm


24 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

road trips<br />

A Holiday Trip with Some History<br />

Shop, Drink and Eat in Toronto<br />

Article and Photography by WAYNE NEWTON<br />

SPONSORED BY<br />

Another era’s whisky and bricks have given way<br />

to two of my favourite and free foodie and<br />

family destinations in Toronto.<br />

The first is the Distillery Historic District. In<br />

its heyday the area was home to Gooderham and Worts<br />

Limited, one of the leading whiskey distilleries in the<br />

Commonwealth which in its last days produced such<br />

well-known brands as Little Brown Jug. After years of<br />

inactivity, the industrial property two kilometres east of<br />

Union Station has been reborn as a mecca of noteworthy<br />

restaurants, craft beer, unique shops, gourmet chocolate,<br />

and family-focused special events including the<br />

German-themed Toronto Christmas Market, which on<br />

<strong>November</strong> 18 opens for its seventh year.<br />

The centrepiece of the Distillery District (designated<br />

a National Historic Site of Canada in 1988) is the original<br />

Mill Street Brew Pub, an iconic stop for Ontario craft<br />

beer fans (even though ownership has now passed to<br />

Labatt). When it opened in 2002 at the dawn of Ontario’s<br />

craft beer explosion this pub was east<br />

Toronto’s first microbrewery in 100<br />

years. Mill Street’s beers — from the<br />

gateway craft Organic Lager to small<br />

batch seasonals such as Vanilla Porter<br />

— are well known, but the pub is also<br />

a go-to spot for food, including the<br />

shepherd’s lamb and lager pie.<br />

Nearby is SOMA Chocolatemaker,<br />

located in a former whisky aging<br />

room, where a chocolate factory<br />

includes a viewing area and where a<br />

lab churns fresh gelato daily.<br />

Among the 25 fashion and lifestyle<br />

retail shops not to be missed are John<br />

The Distillery District is a series of buildings<br />

once used to produce Gooderham and Worts<br />

spirits.<br />

MIDDLE: Love locks spell it out along one of the<br />

laneways in the Distillery District.<br />

RIGHT: Eyes are wide as the Christmas angel<br />

appears before children during the Toronto<br />

Christmas Festival.


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 25<br />

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26 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

LEFT: Canadian shoe designer John Fluevog<br />

features art deco-inspired styles at his Distillery<br />

District shop.<br />

BELOW: Reclaimed knobs pull the shopper’s<br />

eye at Blackbird Vintage Finds in the Distillery<br />

District.<br />

Fluevog Shoes in the district’s west end. On<br />

the east side, Blackbird Vintage Finds offers<br />

a treasure trove of antique, early Canadiana,<br />

and repurposed merchandise.<br />

The Toronto Christmas Market is free<br />

through the week, but an admission is<br />

charged on weekends. The market brings<br />

an influx of 30 additional vendors, who set<br />

up on the Distillery District’s cobblestone<br />

streets, and a long list of musical and dance<br />

performances ranging from carollers and elf<br />

singalongs to holiday jazz and world music.<br />

If you’re in Toronto without a car, getting<br />

to Evergreen Brick Works can be an epic<br />

undertaking, taking 45 minutes from<br />

downtown via TTC bus. So if time is an issue<br />

it’s best to grab a cab or summon Uber and<br />

get there in 15 minutes. Either way, it’s worth<br />

the excursion.<br />

The site, visible from the Don Valley<br />

Expressway, was where Toronto’s iconic<br />

red clay bricks were produced, used in the<br />

construction of many historic downtown<br />

buildings, including Massey Hall, and a<br />

number of stately homes. When the Don<br />

Valley Brick Works closed in 1984 after a<br />

WIN A LEXUS<br />

FOR A WEEKEND!<br />

Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

Presented by<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag<br />

Contest ends <strong>December</strong> 28 , <strong>2016</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Sybille Pieper,<br />

winner of our<br />

Sept/Oct Lexus Draw!


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

UPCOMING EVENTS<br />

Evergreen Brick Works<br />

Festive<br />

Holiday Tea<br />

<strong>December</strong> 17, <strong>2016</strong><br />

2:00pm - 4:00pm<br />

Featuring vocalist Denise Pelley and<br />

Stephen Holowitz on the piano.<br />

$60<br />

per person<br />

At Evergreen<br />

Brick Works, a<br />

mural (left) pays<br />

homage to a<br />

real life former<br />

brick works<br />

employee. Below,<br />

a large map<br />

greets visitors,<br />

tracing the rivers<br />

of the Toronto<br />

watershed<br />

leading to Lake<br />

Ontario.<br />

New Year’s Dinner & Show<br />

<strong>December</strong> 31st, <strong>2016</strong><br />

Ring in the New Year with a Gourmet<br />

Dinner & Live Jazz! Featuring vocalist<br />

Sonja Gustafson, Pianist Charlie Rallo<br />

& Bassist Darryl Stacy.<br />

Dinner Only In our<br />

Dining Room<br />

5:30pm & 8:00pm<br />

$75<br />

per person<br />

New Year’s Dinner &<br />

Show In our Wine Cellar<br />

Cocktails - 7:30pm<br />

Dinner & Show - 8:00pm<br />

$125<br />

per person<br />

RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED<br />

519.432.5554 ~ idlewyldinn.com<br />

36 Grand Avenue, London


28 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

At the Brick Works farmers’ market not all<br />

the interesting food items are obvious at a<br />

glance — here are some pickled milkweed<br />

pods and spruce tips.<br />

century of blasting and digging clay, shale,<br />

and sand with steam shovels, the mined-out<br />

quarry and 16 industrial buildings became<br />

derelict. During the 1990s the site attracted<br />

such less-than-official events as raves, and<br />

both local and international graffiti artists<br />

who saw the large walls as blank canvasses.<br />

Evergreen, a national not-for-profit, took<br />

the reins and after years of planning opened<br />

what is now a wide-ranging environmental<br />

centre in 2010, and home to<br />

Toronto’s largest outdoor farmers’<br />

market.<br />

The raves are history, but the<br />

extensive graffiti remains as part<br />

of the story of the site and now<br />

includes murals of some of the<br />

actual people who worked making<br />

bricks. The large industrial ovens<br />

also remain.<br />

The Weston Foundation helped<br />

fund restoration of the former pit<br />

into a naturalized area and a network of<br />

hiking trails extends up the side of the Don<br />

Valley.<br />

Inside the industrial buildings there’s a<br />

partially covered ice skating rink with skate<br />

rentals, and an extensive area for children’s<br />

environmental programming designed to<br />

reconnect urban children to nature.<br />

The on site farm-to-fork restaurant, Cafe<br />

Belong, is owned by chef Brad Long, the<br />

longtime co-host of Restaurant Makeover on<br />

the Food Network. After 5 p.m. Cafe Belong<br />

serves communal or family-style meals. The<br />

lunch and dinner menus change seasonally,<br />

with the mainstay St. Lawrence salad<br />

frequently raved about by reviewers.<br />

Most of the year there’s an outdoor<br />

weekend farmers market. In mid-<strong>November</strong><br />

the market moves indoors for the winter and<br />

operates on Saturdays only. It’s where some<br />

unusual Ontario food items such a sheep<br />

cheese and milkweed buds can be sourced.<br />

The Distillery Historic District<br />

Mill Street between Parliament and Cherry<br />

streets, Toronto<br />

www.thedistillerydistrict.com<br />

www.torontochristmasmarket.com<br />

Evergreen Brick Works<br />

550 Bayview Avenue, Toronto<br />

Accessible by car off the Don Valley Parkway,<br />

or by TTC buses 65 or 75. The Brick Works<br />

shuttle departs from a parkette north of<br />

the Broadview subway station.<br />

www.evergreen.ca<br />

A dusting of snow covers the children’s programming<br />

area at Evergreen Brick Works and the former clay pit.<br />

WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist based in<br />

London. wayne.newton@bell.net


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />

DISCOVER<br />

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />

INDULGE<br />

in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent and<br />

calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day through Christmas<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

Join us for our<br />

Christmas<br />

Open House<br />

<strong>November</strong><br />

26 & 27<br />

ELGIN COUNTY<br />

Eat, Drink,<br />

Shop & explore<br />

Good food<br />

brings<br />

good<br />

company<br />

Book your christmas party<br />

226 658 0999 soloportstanley.com


30 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

culinary retail<br />

ANNUAL<br />

eatdrink<br />

Gift Guide<br />

It really IS better to<br />

give than to receive<br />

—when you find<br />

the perfect gift that is<br />

warmly received, and you haven't<br />

felt caught up in shopping mall madness.<br />

To help you achieve this end, we've polled<br />

a fine range of independent retailers — the<br />

real shopping experts — for suggestions<br />

for the special people in your life. Whether<br />

you're looking for a big present for someone<br />

close to your heart, or a small gift for a<br />

hostess or your friend at work, here are some<br />

new as well as tried-and-true suggestions<br />

from the experts. Happy Shopping!<br />

You like to dine in style, and so do the birds!<br />

This tiny Pottery Chickadee Feeder is<br />

handmade in Ontario. Each unique rakustyle<br />

pattern is made with feathers. Just<br />

fill with some of Featherfields’ exclusive<br />

non-GMO birdseed to attract small birds<br />

like chickadees, finches, and nuthatches.<br />

This would make a lovely addition to any<br />

garden as an introduction to bird feeding,<br />

or an artistic addition for dedicated feeders.<br />

Bring nature home for the holidays! $38.00 at<br />

Featherfields • 1570 Hyde Park Rd #5, London<br />

www.featherfields.com • 519-474-1165<br />

Perfect for the coffee lover, but also ideal for any on-the-go<br />

beverage, the KeepCup is both an eco-friendly and elegant<br />

solution compared to the waste of disposable cups. The<br />

glass mug is fitted with either a silicone or cork ring and<br />

a secure lid with a handy spout for sipping. Available<br />

in different sizes and a multitude of colours. Made in<br />

Australia. From $13–$32 at Locomotive Espresso • 408 Pall Mall St,<br />

London • www.locomotiveespresso.com • 519-601-3896


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Here’s a great gift for your beer (or kombucha<br />

or cider or coffee or hot chocolate) lover!<br />

By SS Growler, these are the original, stainless<br />

steel, threadless flip-top growlers and<br />

come in both 1L ($50 inc. tax) and 2L ($60 inc.<br />

tax) versions. Double-walled and vacuumsealed,<br />

these will keep your beer cold and<br />

carbonated (or your hot cocoa hot) for many<br />

hours. Perfect for outdoor adventuring and<br />

gift-giving! Anderson Craft Ales • 1030 Elias St,<br />

London • www.andersoncraftales.ca • 506-253-9440<br />

Hey Cupcake!<br />

where art is a piece of cake<br />

With a whimsical and clever sense of taste and style,<br />

Hey Cupcake is a small, family-run business, creating<br />

the freshest and finest cookies, cupcakes and<br />

custom cakes, made in house,<br />

with tender loving<br />

care, just for you!<br />

Visit us online at:<br />

www.heycupcake.ca<br />

OR at our bakery located at:<br />

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North, London<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />

ASK US<br />

ABOUT OUR<br />

NEW CAMPAIGN<br />

“RANDOM<br />

ACTS OF<br />

SWEETNESS!”<br />

Patrick’s Beans is consistently high quality<br />

organic coffee blends that are roasted locally<br />

and sourced ethically. Beans are individually<br />

roasted in small batches and then blended<br />

together to build something that is greater<br />

than the sum of its parts, attaining tailormade<br />

tastes and complexities that cannot<br />

be found in single varietal selections. A<br />

number of popular blends are available, as<br />

are custom blends for the true afficianado.<br />

Patrick’s Facebook page has a list of<br />

locations where Patrick’s Beans are sold and<br />

served. From $15 for a 1 pound bag. Patrick’s Beans •<br />

www.patricksbeans.com • 226-378-5100<br />

SWEET<br />

DREAMS<br />

ARE<br />

MADE<br />

OF<br />

THIS<br />

20-50%<br />

OFF!<br />

START CREATING<br />

A LIFETIME OF<br />

MEMORIES WITH<br />

LE CREUSET THIS<br />

HOLIDAY SEASON<br />

Mon–Wed & Fri–Sat: 10–5:30 | Thu: 10–6:30 | Sun: Noon–5<br />

551 Richmond Street, London<br />

519-850-5477 ○ www.kissthecookonline.com


32 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Mortier Pilon — a<br />

Canadian company —<br />

is all about bringing the fun back to the process of<br />

making kombucha, kimchi, pickles and sauerkraut.<br />

Mortier Pilon crocks provide a specialized,<br />

anaerobic fermenting environment because of their<br />

unique water seal and porcelain weight. The clever,<br />

stylishly designed durable glass fermentation<br />

crocks come with a booklet of user-friendly<br />

thoroughly tested recipes & instructions to get you<br />

started. A great gift idea for the foodie/health nut.<br />

Fermenting … like you’ve never DIY’d before! Prices<br />

range from $9.95 to $59.95 at Bradshaws • 129 Ontario St,<br />

Stratford • www.bradshawscanada.com • 519-271-6283<br />

Consumable gifts are always<br />

appreciated, especially when they<br />

satisfy a sweet tooth! Chocolate<br />

Barr’s offers a customized Stackable<br />

Gift Basket — items can be<br />

substituted or more can be added. A<br />

popular choice includes their renowned ½-pound Assorted Chocolates,<br />

a ½-pound of mixed milk and dark chocolate Minties, a ½-Pound of<br />

Almond Butter Crunch, and a bag of milk chocolate Foiled Santas. $39.99<br />

as shown, at Chocolate Barr’s Candies •<br />

55 George St W, Stratford<br />

• www.chocolatebarrs.com<br />

• 519-272-2828<br />

The Milky Whey has an extensive<br />

selection of cheese from around<br />

the world as well as artisanal<br />

and small batch cheeses made<br />

in Canada. What better way to<br />

explore new flavours than with<br />

a Cheese Tasting Event? Tickets<br />

to one of these popular sessions<br />

would make an excellent gift. For example, on Saturday, January 14, “Blues &<br />

Booze” is all about Blue Cheese. Taste several blue cheeses and pair them with<br />

a dark beer, a red wine and a fortified wine. Moldy goodness! $37.00 plus HST.<br />

The Milky Whey • 118 Ontario Street, Stratford • www.themilkywhey.ca • 519-814-9439


The heart of<br />

Downtown<br />

Strathroy<br />

Now Accepting<br />

Holiday Party<br />

Bookings!<br />

Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar is a long-standing<br />

Stratford institution, with two floors<br />

displaying an eclectic range of goods from<br />

around the world. You will find quality<br />

items such as Fiesta Dinnerware. Originally<br />

designed in 1936 in the Art Deco era, the<br />

bold and bright colours, updated in more<br />

recent years, complement a variety of<br />

decors. There are over 50 items in the mixand-match<br />

line and they are both highly<br />

collectable and practical. Pieces start at $9.<br />

Watson’s Chelsea Bazaar • 84 Ontario Street, Stratford<br />

• watsonsofstratford.com •<br />

519-273-1790<br />

Looking<br />

for a new<br />

idea for a<br />

Hostess<br />

gift? With<br />

frozen<br />

soup from<br />

Soup Surreal,<br />

the host/ess will<br />

be able to pamper<br />

themselves another<br />

evening with a nutritious, healthy, delicious,<br />

gourmet soup. Food Gifts are the Best<br />

Gifts! An outstanding range of flavours —<br />

including gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan<br />

recipes — are available. Frozen 850 mL units<br />

(enough for 3 light lunch portions or 2 dinner size<br />

portions) are $8.00 at Soup Surreal • 98 Wellington<br />

St, Stratford • 519-497-5167 • www.soupsurreal.com<br />

12 DAYS<br />

of<br />

CHRISTMAS<br />

Giveaways!<br />

Chef/Owner Mark Graham’s<br />

fresh, creative, locallysourced<br />

menus extend<br />

to full-service catering<br />

to Strathroy, London &<br />

area. Call for a quote!<br />

Proud recipients of a<br />

second <strong>2016</strong> ACO Award!<br />

Thursday Night Trivia<br />

All You Can Eat<br />

Pasta Sundays<br />

Historic Post Office & Customs Building<br />

71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500<br />

www.clocktower-inn.com


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Whether you are buying for friends, family<br />

or a gift for yourself, accessories are a fun<br />

and popular idea! At Impressions you’ll<br />

find items that you’ll love to give as well as<br />

receive, including unique jewellery, bags,<br />

hats, handwarmers, legwarmers, wraps<br />

and scarves. Various prices. Impressions of<br />

Wortley Village • 148 Wortley Road, London •<br />

www.impressionsfashions.ca • 519-432-0317<br />

The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar<br />

has come up with a charming<br />

way to help customers try their<br />

products (over 60 flavours of oils<br />

and balsamics!). Owner Jamie<br />

Griffiths has created six unique<br />

Sample Pack Combinations,<br />

containing many of his most<br />

popular items. Each sample<br />

pack holds six individually<br />

labeled, 60ml bottles, enclosed<br />

in a custom-designed gift box.<br />

Perfect for people who wish to<br />

try a little bit of everything! $30<br />

(Gourmet Pack $34) at The Pristine<br />

Olive Tasting Bar • 462 Cheapside St,<br />

London • www.thepristineolive.com •<br />

519-433-4444<br />

These petite Le<br />

Creuset Espresso<br />

Mugs will inject a pop of<br />

colour into any kitchen. They are versatile<br />

too; perfect for espresso, they also work beautifully<br />

for individual desserts. The durable enamelled<br />

surface resists staining, chipping and cracking,<br />

and is easy to clean. Providing a totally<br />

hygienic surface, it will not<br />

absorb odours or flavours.<br />

Microwave, freezer and<br />

dishwasher safe. The set<br />

of six is even on promo for<br />

Christmas. $59.99 (regularly $120)<br />

at Kiss the Cook • 551 Richmond St,<br />

London • www.kissthecookonline.com<br />

• 519-850-5477<br />

Help your favourite vegan (or non-vegan!) celebrate<br />

the holidays in style with vegan-friendly swag from<br />

Plant Matter Kitchen. Featuring offbeat food-focused<br />

slogans, PMK’s Canadian-made t-shirt line features an<br />

organic bamboo-rayon-cotton blend. Top your t-shirt<br />

order off with PMK glassware or a trucker hat,<br />

and don’t forget a gift certificate!<br />

With vegan menu items<br />

sourced from organic,<br />

local, and plant-based i<br />

ngredients, a gift<br />

from Plant Matter<br />

Kitchen is both<br />

delicious and<br />

stylish! Plant Matter<br />

Kitchen • 162 Wortley Rd,<br />

London • 519-660-3663 •<br />

plantmatterkitchen.com


Artisanal Market & Bistro<br />

Unger’s Market has been serving London<br />

for over 30 years. Roots of a family-run farm<br />

stand are still in evidence, with fresh meat,<br />

eggs, produce and a bakery providing great<br />

quality at fair prices. But the store not only<br />

developed into a fully-fledged market and<br />

deli with a tea room, it has also grown to<br />

include unique collections of home decor,<br />

gifts, and Women’s Fashion. Style is the<br />

operative word, with ever-changing displays<br />

of today’s looks inspiring frequent visits.<br />

Unger’s Market • 1010 Gainsborough Road, London •<br />

www.ungers.ca • 519-472-8126<br />

Handcrafted Artisan<br />

Truffles & Chocolates<br />

Using the Finest Belgian Chocolate<br />

• Unique & Traditional Flavours •<br />

$100 Value<br />

Gift Certificates are<br />

sometimes regarded as a cop-out, yet<br />

they can be a wonderfully thoughtful way to<br />

express your sentiments. Gift card displays<br />

from large chain stores, now ubiquitous<br />

in grocery and drug stores, can smack of<br />

mindless consumerism, yet a gift certificate<br />

or card from a unique and interesting<br />

store or a fabulous local restaurant can<br />

be a reflection of your good taste and the<br />

interests of the recipient. They are available<br />

fom most every business, in denominations<br />

that fit your budget.<br />

Local Artisans<br />

Dessert Bistro<br />

Italian Gelato<br />

Gift Baskets<br />

OPEN DAILY<br />

51 Front Street West, Strathroy<br />

Downtown corner of Front & Frank<br />

226-236-1980<br />

windellschocolates.com


36 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Railway City Brewing has the perfect gift for only $13.95! This<br />

Holiday Gift Pack features 473mL cans of Ontario silvermedal-winning<br />

Dead Elephant Ale, Canadian<br />

gold-medal-winning Black Coal Stout,<br />

specialty seasonal Cranberry Festive Lager,<br />

and a 16oz Railway City Brewing glass, all<br />

attractively packaged in a holiday gift box.<br />

Get yours today at LCBO outlets, select<br />

grocery stores, and Railway City’s retail store.<br />

Railway City Brewing Co. • 130 Edward St, St. Thomas •<br />

www.railwaycitybrewing.com • 519-631-1881<br />

A Culinary Gift Set from Steed & Company<br />

Lavender makes the perfect gift for<br />

any foodie. Let them try the Lavender<br />

Chamomile Spearmint Tea, Culinary<br />

Lavender, and your choice of one of a rich<br />

collection of preserves — like a Lavender<br />

Raspberry Strawberry Jam with Chocolate<br />

Liqueur or Lavender Infused Honey.<br />

Wrapped in a beautiful box, this gift set looks<br />

as great as it tastes! $30.25–$32.50 at Steed &<br />

Company Lavender • 47589 Sparta L ine, RR#5 Aylmer<br />

• www.steedandcompany.com • 519-494-5525<br />

Celebrate the holiday season with<br />

Dark Horse Estate Winery. Deep<br />

in the heart of Huron County, right<br />

next to the iconic Huron Country<br />

Playhouse, you’ll find the first<br />

fully functioning estate winery<br />

in Ontario’s newest winegrowing<br />

region. The folks at Dark Horse are<br />

more than happy to help you select a<br />

wine to pair with your holiday feast.<br />

Or design a custom gift basket. Gift<br />

cards are available for wine tours<br />

too. Baskets are priced at $50, $100, or can<br />

be custom ordered.<br />

Dark Horse Estate Winery • 70665 B Line,<br />

Grand Bend • www.darkhorseestatewinery.com • 519-709-1532


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Windells Chocolates is Strathroy’s go-to<br />

chocolate shop and more. Owner May<br />

Windell brings her artisanal approach to<br />

crafting truffles<br />

and chocolates,<br />

using the finest<br />

Belgian<br />

chocolate, but<br />

she has also<br />

attracted other<br />

artisans to<br />

her beautiful<br />

space. For a<br />

special holiday<br />

treat, she suggests<br />

her Butter Pecan<br />

Toffee — hand-crafted old-fashioned butter<br />

toffee dipped in Belgian chocolate and rolled<br />

in freshly crushed pecans. $10-$15 Windells<br />

Chocolates • 51 Front Street West, Strathroy • www.<br />

windellschocolates.com • 226-236-1980<br />

Celebrating 20 Years!<br />

Birdfeeding Experts<br />

All non-GMO Birdseed<br />

Garden Gifts<br />

Holiday Decor<br />

E&D_LocomotiveED_Nov2014_ART.pdf 1 201<br />

HOME • GARDEN • GIFTS<br />

Pepper Tree Spice Co. operates out of a<br />

charming shop in Port Stanley, offering a<br />

sophisticated presentation of the world’s<br />

best spices. You’ll find nearly everything<br />

you need to share the warmth of the holiday<br />

season with their Home for the Holidays<br />

Spice Collection including Garlic Mashed<br />

Blend, and a Signature Mulling Spice. With<br />

over 300 spices and artisan blends made<br />

daily on-site, gourmet foods, kitchenware<br />

and custom gift baskets, you’ll find the gift<br />

that keeps giving for the foodie in your life.<br />

Gift packages start at $26.95<br />

Pepper Tree Spice Co. • 223 Colborne St, Port Stanley •<br />

www.peppertreespice.com • 519-782-7800


38 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

The BUZZ ... new and notable<br />

Every <strong>November</strong> over the past four years,<br />

Abruzzi has donated a percentage of sales to<br />

support Prostate Cancer research at the London<br />

Health Sciences Centre. So far, with your<br />

help, a total of $12,052.53 has been raised for this important<br />

cause. To help make this year even more successful, all you<br />

have to do is enjoy dinner at Abruzzi anytime during this<br />

month. Supporting Movember has never been easier, nor<br />

tasted so good! www.abruzzi.ca<br />

Rob’s Wicked Chicken and Wedges has opened on<br />

Hamilton Road (at Maitland Street) on the site of the former<br />

Mary Brown’s Chicken. The menu will go beyond chicken<br />

and wedges, offering a selection of sandwiches, including<br />

pulled pork and fish, plus a new feature item—Korean<br />

Yang-Nyum chicken made with an in-house sweet but spicy<br />

barbecue sauce.<br />

Lawrence Burden is celebrating 16 years as a purveyor<br />

of fine kitchen and dining supplies at his store, Kiss the<br />

Cook, on Richmond Row. He’s offering a range of products<br />

at special prices, for a limited time. And don’t forget that<br />

resident chef Chris Squire hosts cooking classes here. Keep<br />

that in mind for the foodie friends on your gift list — or<br />

treat yourself! www.kissthecookonline.com<br />

Jill Wilcox, food columnist, owner of Jill’s Table in London,<br />

and cookbook author, has just released her latest cookbook,<br />

Soups, Stews & Breads. With her own recipes and a section<br />

on breads from chef Josie Pontarelli, this makes the perfect<br />

addition to any cookbook collection for chefs and home<br />

cooks of all skill levels. Five dollars of the proceeds from each<br />

cookbook will go to the Jill Wilcox Foundation, which<br />

helps better the lives of women and children through food<br />

related initiatives in the London community.<br />

Ian Kennard, who operated Willie’s Café since 1996, has<br />

closed the café side of his business. The catering side of<br />

the business will continue. Willie’s has built a reputation<br />

as a caterer, and fresh healthy fare can be delivered to your<br />

office at an affordable price. Chef Gail Rains has been the<br />

chef since 1996. Kennard advised eatdrink that the Willie’s<br />

building has been sold and leased. www.williescafe.on.ca<br />

Talbot Street Whisky House recently closed. Revive<br />

Kitchen has also shut down after a brief run.<br />

FRESH gift ideas yule love<br />

Select from over 60 flavours of oils and balsamics.<br />

Sample the freshest oils from across the globe, paired with savoury<br />

white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy.<br />

Personally bottled to suit your individual taste.<br />

Gift<br />

Cards<br />

Custom<br />

Gift Baskets<br />

Sample<br />

Packs<br />

Corporate<br />

Gifts<br />

Stocking<br />

Stuffers<br />

The<br />

Pristine<br />

live<br />

Tasting Bar<br />

462 Cheapside Street @ Maitland | London | 519-433-4444<br />

www.thepristineolive.ca


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Although Rico’s Pizzeria Downtown at 71 King Street in<br />

the Renaissance Towers (across from Budweiser Gardens)<br />

is becoming known for their vegan and gluten-free pizzas<br />

since opening last month, this shouldn’t scare away the<br />

carnivores. Made with Fieldgate Organic meats, the<br />

Farmer’s sausage Pizza and the new prosciutto-filled<br />

Hawaiian “Magnum Pi” are captivating the taste buds<br />

of locals. As the business grows, so will the menu and<br />

concepts, such as the thin crust Double Decker ‘Za, which<br />

consists of two whole wheat thin crusts that sandwich extra<br />

cheese and extra sauce option, for those who want more.<br />

For those of you who are health conscious be sure to try<br />

Jocelyn Morwood’s coconut bacon pizza.<br />

London’s Fresh Booth at 201 Queens Avenue has rebranded<br />

— meet Hopscotch — the new restaurant that has<br />

upgraded the original location to reflect the food it provides<br />

with natural décor and cheeky references to ingredients.<br />

Brothers Aiden and Wyatt Booth use fresh ingredients that<br />

have been grown and raised responsibly by local partners and<br />

farmers. The menu is chef-driven, offers healthy and exciting<br />

takes on traditional salads in addition to other original<br />

recipes. All sauces (more than 10) are made in-house daily.<br />

The business uses eco-friendly and biodegradable containers<br />

(bowls compost in 180 days) and potato-based forks.<br />

The London Brewing Co-operative is relocating to<br />

Burbrook Place in the Old East Village this fall and expanding<br />

operations to keep up with increasing demand for its truly<br />

local beers. The new home of this worker-owned brewery<br />

will include a taproom, retail space, and a larger brewing<br />

system. The brewery will be housed inside an innovative<br />

space shared with On The Move Organics, a local organic<br />

delivery company. The change will also create opportunities<br />

for visitors to better understand the value of local<br />

ingredients and to taste the benefits that they bring to the<br />

beer and other products.<br />

Restaurant Ninety-One at Windermere Manor has<br />

launched new fall/winter and fall seasonal menus.<br />

Afternoon Tea is now served on Saturday afternoons, in<br />

conjunction with The Tea Haus at Covent Garden Market.<br />

Afternoon Tea features a full selection of house-made<br />

pastries and dainty sandwiches. Chef Angela Murphy is<br />

offering tasting menus and wine tastings for groups of 8<br />

to 10 as part of the chef’s table dining experience. Chef is<br />

also organizing special menu nights focusing on chefs who<br />

have inspired and have specifically impacted the cuisine at<br />

Restaurant Ninety-One including David McMillan, Martin<br />

Picard, Susur Lee, Alice Waters, Lucy Waverman and others.<br />

It’s been a busy year for veteran London chef Ricardo<br />

Cavaco. The owner of Bifana Boys launched his food<br />

truck last summer and most recently revamped an old<br />

family recipe into a new line of versatile Portuguese sauces.<br />

Cavaco recently opened a satellite location of Bifana Boys,<br />

specializing in Portuguese fare, at the Farmers and Artisans<br />

Market at The Western Fair. Offerings at the Market include a<br />

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

DINNER from 5pm daily<br />

432 Richmond Street<br />

at Carling • London<br />

Seasonal Hours<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course prix fixe<br />

menu option<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

Book NOW for your<br />

Christmas Lunch or Dinner Party<br />

& Reserve for New Year’s Eve!<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com


A Taste of Europe since 1974<br />

MURDER MYSTERIES<br />

<strong>November</strong> 25 &<br />

Dec. 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 18<br />

& New Year’s Eve Special Show<br />

122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens)<br />

519-679-9940<br />

Open Daily for Dinner<br />

www.marienbad.ca<br />

Lunch Monday–Saturday<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

Book Now for Your Holiday Party!<br />

Gift Cards<br />

Available<br />

Book Your<br />

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Private Rooms Available<br />

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(Year Round!)<br />

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

variety of dishes, such as piripiri chicken, Angry Fries and his<br />

signature Bifana Sandwich—marinated pork slices in a bun.<br />

Don’t be fooled by its simplicity, this well-made sandwich<br />

will zap you with a lightning bolt of flavours.<br />

This year’s VegFest London will take place in the Progress<br />

Building at the Western Fair District on Saturday, <strong>November</strong><br />

12th. VegFest celebrates the plant-based lifestyle and<br />

promotes compassionate, sustainable and healthy living with<br />

over 100 vegan food and product vendors, health and wellness<br />

vendors and animal sanctuaries and rescue/liberation<br />

organizations, such as The Boombox Bakeshop, Rescue<br />

Dogs vegan hot dog cart, Sweet Teeth Vegan Food Truck<br />

and more. Speakers include author Dreena Burton, Dr. Linda<br />

Plowright, Jenna Goodhand of Saving Lives with Forks and<br />

Knives, Jo-Anne McArthur and Keri Cronin from the Unbound<br />

Project and emcee Rose Corra Perry. There will be cooking and<br />

food demos by Chef Doug McNish and Emily Von Euw of This<br />

Rawesome Vegan Life. Other offerings include Purdy Natural<br />

Photo Booth, Plant Matter Kitchen Dining Area and<br />

Booch Organic Kombucha Lounge. Admission is free.<br />

The 20 Under 40 Awards Program recognizes accomplished<br />

industry leaders in London who are younger than 40, and<br />

who also give back to their community. The awards are given<br />

by Business London magazine and sponsored by Harrison<br />

Pensa, Lovers At Work, BlueStone Properties, Western<br />

University, Nothers Signs and Recognition, London Chamber<br />

of Commerce, Blackfriars Catering & Bistro, 20 Under 40<br />

Foundation and XInfused Events Inc. Three of our favourite<br />

colleagues from the culinary world will be recognized at a<br />

reception at London Music Hall on Nov. 19th. They are: Yoda<br />

Olinyk, executive chef and co-owner, Glassroots; Kris Hunt,<br />

owner, The Works Gourmet Burger Bistro and Dave Strano,<br />

owner, Burrito Boyz London.<br />

Downtown London’s Winter Light Christmas Walk will<br />

be held <strong>November</strong> 18th and 19th. Dozens of downtown<br />

businesses will be hosting sales, open houses, music, and<br />

holiday activities on Friday and Saturday. The Winter Light<br />

guide will be released in <strong>November</strong><br />

Watch for plant-based espresso drinks, smoothies and healthy<br />

fare at The Ground Up! in the space formerly occupied by<br />

Aroma Café on Richmond Row. As the name suggests, the café<br />

will be organic, plant-based and eco-conscious.<br />

About every six weeks, Youth Opportunities Unlimited<br />

partners with a different local London chef or restaurateur<br />

to host a dinner as part of Cornerstone Cuisine Dinner<br />

program at the YOU Made It Cafe. An exciting evening<br />

and customized dinner menu are created and a specific<br />

cultural cuisine is celebrated. If you are a local chef and<br />

interested in partnering, get in touch! Plans for the 2017<br />

Youth Opportunities Unlimited Cornerstone Cuisine Dinner<br />

program are underway.<br />

Garlic’s of London has a great supply of jarred, local, natural<br />

honey from their former rooftop hives, that were relocated to


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 41<br />

a farm just outside of the city. The honey is now available for<br />

sale at the restaurant. www.garlicsoflondon.com<br />

Marienbad’s annual Schnitzelfest runs from Nov. 4th<br />

until Nov. 19th. Marienbad’s Murder Mystery series (late<br />

<strong>November</strong>) features an office gathering that turns into a<br />

variation of “Survival” as workers use jungle warfare to keep<br />

their jobs. A special New Year’s Eve show will includes a fourcourse<br />

meal for $69.95 per person.<br />

Michael’s on the Thames recently launched a new dinner<br />

menu, for the first time in 3 years. The wine list has been<br />

undated to include red and white wines from countries and<br />

varietals all around the world.<br />

There’s a spectacular new venue in town called 449. It is<br />

operated by the folks who brought you North Moore Catering,<br />

The River Room and the Rhino Lounge and Bakery. Perfect for<br />

private holiday parties, New Year’s Eve parties, showers, dinner<br />

meetings, smaller weddings and birthdays You can even BYOB<br />

with an SOP! 519.850.5111 x 1 or email info@northmoore.ca<br />

Locomotive Espresso remains loyal to Pilot Coffee<br />

Roasters. Through direct trade, Pilot ensures the premium<br />

prices they pay go straight into their grower’s hands.<br />

Locomotive’s tradition of Friday Croissant Day has<br />

returned. Chef Rob Chick leads the B. Davison Secondary<br />

Culinary Program. As well as learning about delivery and<br />

merchandising in the cafe, the culinary students bake the<br />

finest croissant, almond croissant and chocolate brioche.<br />

Coffee themed gift baskets will be available at Locomotive<br />

Espresso from <strong>December</strong> 1.<br />

The London Wine and Food Show returns in<br />

January with more food, wine and entertainment than<br />

ever before. In its 12th year the show promises to bring<br />

Londoners an enticing mix of local restaurants, wineries,<br />

craft beers, and spirits. There will be tasting seminars, stage<br />

presentations and entertainment. Sip, sample and savour at<br />

London’s Wine & Food Show!<br />

Stratford<br />

Stratford’s Soup’s On will beheld on Saturday January 14. This<br />

popular annual Perth County event showcases over 30 local<br />

vendors serving soup to warm you up at the Stratford Rotary<br />

Complex. All proceeds support the Alzheimer Society of Perth<br />

County. In 2015, Soup Surreal won the People’s Choice Award<br />

for a second time with Gouda, Beer and Onion soup, which<br />

also took the judge’s prize in the Creamy Professional category.<br />

Speaking of Soup Surreal, they are offering a weekly<br />

rotation of chili both hot and frozen in store through the<br />

winter: Vegetarian Chili, and Chili with Revel Coffee, Black<br />

Swan Porter and McIntosh Farms Beef Chili. The Beef Chili<br />

became a huge favourite after they adjusted the recipe for<br />

the Heart and Stroke event Heartburn Day. soupsurreal.com<br />

“A place you<br />

can depend on<br />

and delight in”<br />

— eatdrink<br />

Brilliant<br />

Holiday Celebrations!<br />

46 Blackfriars Street, London<br />

519-667-4930<br />

www.blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

EXPRESS LUNCHES<br />

INTIMATE DINNERS<br />

EXTRAORDINARY<br />

CATERING<br />

DIETARY NEEDS<br />

ACCOMMODATED<br />

AMPLE FREE PARKING


42 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

The String Bone Presents “Live at Revival House Dinner/<br />

Concert” series boasts a winter concert lineup worthy of praise.<br />

Juno-nominated, award-winning artists such as Great Big<br />

Sea’s Sean McCann (Nov. 5), Fred Eaglesmith (Nov. 18),<br />

Samantha Martin& Delta Sugar (Jan. 27) and Alysha Brilla<br />

(Feb. 24). Revival House also highlights local performances<br />

giving support to such local indie acts as Upside of Maybe with<br />

Dayna Manning (Nov. 11) The Neil Young’uns (Nov. 19) and Ali<br />

Mathews’ Annual Christmas Concert (Dec. 3).<br />

Let members of the Stratford Symphony Orchestra<br />

serenade you with music to lift your soul in the<br />

reinvented Revival House. “Classical Symphony Brunch”<br />

142 fullarton at richmond<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

concerts through the winter months will happen Sundays<br />

<strong>November</strong> 20, February 19 and May 21.<br />

Scotch and Chocolate… individually wonderful, brilliant<br />

when paired. Certified Whisky Sommelier Steve Rae has<br />

created a Whisky journey through Scotland touching the<br />

different regions and flavour spectrums. Rheo Thompson<br />

Candies chocolatier, Christine Chessell has selected a variety<br />

of Rheo’s chocolates to compliment the scotches. Or do the<br />

scotches compliment the chocolates? Find out for yourself.<br />

This wonderful combination of two passionate flavours<br />

happens at Revival House <strong>December</strong> 17, 3pm. Tickets<br />

available at www.visitstratford.ca<br />

The Red Rabbit’s winter hours begin In <strong>November</strong> — the<br />

restaurant will be closed Tuesday and Wednesdays. Nosh<br />

Monday returns <strong>November</strong> 7th and every Monday through<br />

to April. It is $42 per person for a culinary adventure and<br />

reservations are strongly recommended. Beer Dinner and<br />

Supper Club events return for the winter season. Dates and<br />

themes are released on The Red Rabbit’s Facebook page.<br />

Rundles Morris House has launched the first ever<br />

fractional vacation home ownership opportunity in<br />

Stratford. As the beginning phase in the re-development<br />

of Rundles Restaurant, starting in the 2017 season of the<br />

Stratford Festival, Rundles Morris House will be offered for<br />

sale in one-week segments. www.rundlesrestaurant.com<br />

Join The Local Community Food Centre for The Hunters<br />

and Foragers Dinner on <strong>November</strong> 25. The multi-course<br />

dinner celebrates wild game and ethically-foraged food<br />

products. www.thelocalcfc.org<br />

There are some exciting changes at the Stratford Chefs<br />

School. A new teaching kitchen and classrooms will greet<br />

the <strong>2016</strong>-17 school students.<br />

Want to be a food critic? Stratford Chefs School aspiring<br />

chefs are preparing inspired variations on over 30 years of<br />

SCS menus, executed with great skill and passion, and invite<br />

you to join them. The classic 4- to 6-course Dinner Series<br />

meals are served at 136 Ontario Street, Tuesdays through<br />

Saturdays, while 3-course lunches take place Fridays and<br />

Saturdays. At lunch, wines are available by the glass or $5<br />

Thank You!


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

corkage. Menus change daily. Share your feedback following<br />

your meal. www.stratfordchef.com<br />

On Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 20, 10 am–2:00 pm, visit Stratford’s<br />

historic downtown for the Outdoor Christmas Market.<br />

Enjoy the music of the Stratford Symphony Orchestra and<br />

meet Santa inside the Avon Theatre. Shop vendor stalls for<br />

holiday foods, crafts and gifts. Sip hot cocoa while listening<br />

to costumed carolers singing seasonal tunes and embracing<br />

the character and charm of a Victorian Christmas.<br />

Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market moves indoors<br />

to The Falstaff Family Centre, Stratford, 35 Waterloo Street,<br />

Stratford. The market you know and love is open Sundays from<br />

10 am–2 pm all year round. www.slowfoodperthcounty.com<br />

Stratford Farmers’ Market is a year round market<br />

operating since 1855, featuring fresh produce, crafts,<br />

meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex-Agriplex, 353<br />

McCarthy Rd., Stratford. Saturdays 7:00 am–12:00 pm.<br />

Bradshaws Christmas Open House on <strong>November</strong> 4 makes<br />

for a fun night out, but of course their great assortment of<br />

holiday giftware, kitchenware and entertaining items is<br />

available right through this holiday season. Bradshaws is also<br />

holding a Christmas-themed High Tea at Revival House<br />

featuring a guided seasonal tea tasting from Sloane Fine<br />

Tea, holiday treats from Revival House’s pastry chef and<br />

music by Stratford Symphony Orchestra. This perfect way<br />

London’s Destination<br />

for Culinary Excellence<br />

33<br />

Years of<br />

Extraordinary<br />

Service<br />

519.432.4092<br />

481 Richmond St., London | www.garlics.com<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />

THE VILLAGE<br />

MEAT SHOP<br />

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY<br />

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Reserve Your<br />

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Lunch Monday to Friday<br />

Dinner 7 Nights a Week<br />

Sunday Brunch 11am–2pm<br />

1 York Street<br />

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Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com<br />

to make your reservation online<br />

LIVE JAZZ<br />

Fridays & Saturdays<br />

from 6pm<br />

Gift Certificates<br />

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Metzger Meat Products • Blanbrook Bison Farm<br />

• Lena’s Lamb • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

TOUR<br />

Sicilian Splendour<br />

October 2017 • 11 Nights Land<br />

Escorted Tour. Welcome to a fabulous journey<br />

exploring the food, wine and local traditions<br />

that set Sicily apart from the rest of Italy.<br />

Highlights include local wine tasting on the<br />

slopes of Mt. Etna, a visit to Taormina’s Greek<br />

theatre, the circa 500 BC architectural ruins of<br />

Siracusa and tours of Palermo, Taormina &<br />

Monreale. 4 nights in Palermo, 3 nights in<br />

Siracusa, 4 nights in Taormina.<br />

For more information on this exciting tour, and others,<br />

contact:<br />

Carlson Wagonlit Travel<br />

224 Central Avenue, London ON 519-679-8520<br />

london@carlsonwagonlit.com<br />

www.cwtvacations.ca/london<br />

450 Columbia St. W. Unit 6, Waterloo ON 1-800-267-9269<br />

waterloo@carlsonwagonlit.com TICO Registration 50020877<br />

www.cwtvacations.ca/waterloo<br />

to celebrate the holidays takes place Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 27,<br />

11am–1pm. $45/person. www.bradshawscanada.com<br />

Around Our Region<br />

Living Alive Granola, located in St. Thomas, focuses on<br />

using local maple syrup (Palmer’s beautiful dark maple<br />

syrup from Port Stanley), honey (Clovermead’s Summer<br />

Blossom Honey) and oats, and bakes only with fresh<br />

ingredients. Local musician Stephanie Brown and former<br />

MP Joe Preston base their product on a family recipe.<br />

Both partners are advocates for helping local mental health<br />

programs, and they donate ten cents from every bag sold<br />

to make a difference in this important area. Living Alive<br />

Granola is available at markets, and from a growing number<br />

of local retailers (including Remark, and some No Frills<br />

and Foodland stores). Also available online for delivery<br />

anywhere in Canada. livingalivegranola.ca<br />

Change up your Friday night! Telegraph House in Port Stanley<br />

has started up Pizza Night, offering new and exciting pizzas.<br />

One was recently discovered by proprietors Jon and Vicci<br />

Coughlin in NYC, featuring toasted butternut on a garlic and<br />

goat cheese base, with arugula and balsamic vinegar glaze<br />

topping. The Coughlins will also be making Jon’s special — the<br />

Diavola Supreme that includes house tomato sauce, pepperoni,<br />

capocolla, salami, shallots, black olives, bacon, proscuitto,<br />

mozzarella and parmesan. Pizza dinners are actually three<br />

course dinners, including soup or salad, and pie for dessert. The<br />

“Winter Series” has also begun, with dinners on Saturday nights.<br />

Bring your own wine for $5 corkage. www.telegraphhouse.com<br />

Six Thirty Nine in Woodstock recently received an<br />

award from the South Central Ontario Region Economic<br />

Development Corporation as a Local Food Champion.<br />

Over in Vineland, visit Featherstone Winery and Vineyard’s<br />

Holiday Open House on <strong>December</strong> 3 and 4 and celebrate<br />

the season with neighbours Malivore Wine Company,<br />

Vineland Estates Winery, GreenLane Estate Winery, and<br />

Ridgepoint Winery. Each winery will have their own special<br />

events on all weekend — back vintage tastings, food pairings,<br />

cocktail ideas, or sleigh rides. And each winery will try to fill a<br />

wine barrel with donations of non-perishable food items. There<br />

will be lots of holiday entertaining ideas on offer, as well as<br />

unique tastings. Ticket fees will be donated to a local charity.<br />

www.featherstonewinery.ca<br />

Air Canada’s in-flight magazine, enRoute, has announced its<br />

annual top 10 list of Canada’s Best New Restaurants <strong>2016</strong>, as<br />

well as the winner of the People’s Choice Award — Backhouse,<br />

in Niagara-on-the-Lake. enroute.aircanada.com<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events that<br />

you’d like us to share? Every issue, eatdrink reaches<br />

more than 50,000 readers across Southwestern<br />

Ontario in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or<br />

connect directly with our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery<br />

at bryan@eatdrink.ca


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 45<br />

BEER MATTERS<br />

beer matters<br />

Try Something New this Season<br />

Ontario Craft Dark Beer!<br />

By WAYNE NEWTON<br />

One of the most satisfyingly<br />

flavourful and trendiest ways<br />

to end a holiday meal is with<br />

an Ontario craft dark beer.<br />

Fortunately for those living in southwestern<br />

Ontario there are at least five stellar choices<br />

that will satisfy the palate and stimulate<br />

conversation about the exceptional local<br />

breweries that created them.<br />

To find some samples, it’s as simple as<br />

a trip to your local LCBO, Beer Store, or<br />

beer-selling grocery store. Or it can mean<br />

a journey to the brewery itself, where you<br />

typically will be able to sample before<br />

buying. Your quest is for stouts — the<br />

name is derived from being the stoutest or<br />

strongest of the porters. The glassware you<br />

need are snifters, often available at craft<br />

brewery retail stores.<br />

While alcohol content is well understood<br />

by beer drinkers, IBU (International<br />

Bittering Units) may be less so. It’s an<br />

important number to note, if brewers make<br />

it available, to match your taste to the right<br />

beer. The higher the IBU, the more bitter, or<br />

hoppy, the beer is likely to be.<br />

Here are five local,<br />

guest-pleasing dark<br />

beers:<br />

Railway City Black<br />

Coal Stout: One of<br />

several beers named<br />

with a railway theme<br />

and brewed by St.<br />

Thomas’s Railway City<br />

Brewing Company,<br />

Black Coal Stout lives<br />

up to its name in<br />

terms of colour. A<br />

<strong>2016</strong> Canadian Brewing<br />

Awards winner, the taste is of<br />

bittersweet chocolate, roasted coffee beans,<br />

and rye bread. The alcohol content is 6 per<br />

cent, with a 46<br />

IBU. Available<br />

at the brewery,<br />

130 Edward<br />

Street, St.<br />

Thomas, and at<br />

the LCBO.<br />

Forked River<br />

Blackbeerd<br />

and Wicked<br />

Wench:<br />

Blackbeerd is the London<br />

brewery’s tasty stout. Wicked<br />

Wench is the value-added version, aged in<br />

bourbon barrels for about a year. Wicked<br />

Wench is 5.7 per cent alcohol, 30 IBU,<br />

Blackbeerd a little less (5.5 abv, 30 IBU.<br />

They’re not on the shelf at the same time<br />

of year. Available at the brewery store, 45<br />

Pacific Court, in Forked River’s signature<br />

500 mL bottles. That means you can do<br />

small pours for skeptical newbies who need<br />

to be convinced, sip by sip, that they will like<br />

good stouts.<br />

Blackfriars Vanilla Stout: This gem from<br />

Tobaggan, the jewel of Richmond Row,<br />

has been available on tap at the London<br />

brewpub and<br />

is set to debut<br />

in tallboy<br />

cans at the<br />

brewery<br />

store, in time<br />

to impress<br />

Christmas<br />

guests.<br />

Brewmaster<br />

Tom Schmidt<br />

has taken<br />

Toboggan’s<br />

regular (if I<br />

may use that


46 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

word) slightly sweet stout, and infused it<br />

with Madagascar vanilla beans. The result<br />

is wonderful and a perfect starting point for<br />

people who think they don’t like stouts.<br />

It is 6 per cent alcohol and 35 IBU.<br />

Toboggan is at 585 Richmond Street,<br />

London.<br />

Black Swan Porter: This requires a<br />

little expedition and a willingness to<br />

serve guests from a 64-oz growler. Black<br />

Swan brewpub of Stratford is gaining trac-<br />

Come. Sit. Stay.<br />

Enjoy the Dawghouse Pub & Eatery’s genuine<br />

pub atmosphere with great food, live bands,<br />

karaoke, interactive games ... and there’s always<br />

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& live events<br />

Daily<br />

Food & Drink<br />

Specials<br />

Catering Available. Kitchen Open Late!<br />

699 Wilkins Street, London<br />

519-685-0640 dawghouse.ca<br />

SUN–TUES 11am–1am; WED–SAT 11am–2am<br />

tion and<br />

its porter<br />

is worthy<br />

of bringing<br />

home. The<br />

porter uses<br />

Chinook hops and eight types of malt. The<br />

alcohol is 5.3<br />

per cent and<br />

IBU 45. Black<br />

Swan is at 144<br />

Downie Street,<br />

Stratford.<br />

Half Hours on<br />

Earth: No one<br />

said getting a<br />

fine stout on<br />

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easy. Brand new<br />

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№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

ability and urges you to order online to<br />

ensure you get the beer you want before<br />

making the drive to Seaforth. Half Hours has<br />

offered porters in the past with such names<br />

as Moonless, a farmhouse porter, and Space<br />

Oddity, a berry brett porter. Both were out<br />

of stock as of this writing. You can take it on<br />

faith that when Half Hours has a dark beer<br />

on its available list, it will be good. Order<br />

through the Half Hours website, halfhoursonearth.com,<br />

or visit the store, Saturday<br />

afternoons only, at 151 Main Street South,<br />

Seaforth.<br />

This holiday season, impress your guests<br />

with the refinement holding a glass of craft<br />

stout brings and feel blessed such a bevy of<br />

flavourful beer options are waiting in your<br />

backyard. Cheers!<br />

WAYNE NEWTON is a freelance journalist in London who<br />

enjoys writing about beer and travel.<br />

ASK for ANDERSON<br />

Our tap room is open for business<br />

— including for your holiday<br />

functions and private parties.<br />

Give us a call today!<br />

1030 Elias Street, London<br />

519-803-1350<br />

andersoncraftales.ca


48 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

wine<br />

Only if You’re Thirsty<br />

Four Sparkling Recommendations for the Holiday Season<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

“I<br />

drink it when I’m happy and<br />

when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink<br />

it when I’m alone. When I have<br />

company I consider it obligatory.<br />

I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink<br />

it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it—<br />

unless I’m thirsty.”<br />

I can relate to this famous quote by Lilly<br />

Bollinger who at one time ran the famous<br />

Champagne house in France.<br />

Only sparkling wine from the Champagne<br />

region of France can be called Champagne.<br />

However sparkling wines are produced in<br />

many other global wine regions including<br />

here in Ontario. Wine Country Ontario<br />

reports that approximately 26 wineries in the<br />

province are now making sparkling wines,<br />

and many of them rival the best that France<br />

has to offer.<br />

Grapes commonly used to make sparkling<br />

wine in Ontario include chardonnay, riesling,<br />

pinot noir, gamay and vidal.<br />

As the holiday season approaches, glasses<br />

around our house tend to be filled with sparkling<br />

wine and more often than not, these<br />

glasses of bubbly tend to be Ontario-made.<br />

Here are my Ontario sparkling wine recommendations<br />

for the holiday season. Buy<br />

some to give as gifts and keep some to open<br />

when you are happy, sad, hungry or thirsty.<br />

Origin Aromatic Sparkling Wine<br />

(LCBO # 470047, $17.95)<br />

Sparkling wine in a can?<br />

Really?! Why not?<br />

When I first heard about<br />

this I didn’t believe it. I had<br />

never heard of sparkling wine<br />

in a can, or indeed of any<br />

wine being packaged this way.<br />

Unbeknownst to me, a few<br />

wineries in the United States<br />

and one in British Columbia<br />

were already doing this.<br />

Beer is sold in cans, so why not wine? I<br />

was interested but not convinced that this<br />

was a good idea so I visited Between The<br />

Lines winery in Niagara, where a sparkling<br />

wine called Origin was being made and<br />

packaged in a can.<br />

Origin Aromatic Sparkling Wine is made<br />

from 100 percent vidal grapes. A small dosage<br />

of vidal ice wine is added, resulting is a<br />

sweet finish to this sparkling wine. Initially<br />

sold in four-can packs at the winery, it is<br />

now available at the LCBO in a gift box containing<br />

three 250 mL cans.<br />

Sparkling wine goes flat if the bottle is not<br />

consumed within 24 hours, so these small<br />

cans are ideal when you just want one glass<br />

of bubbly.<br />

Origin presents lemon citrus notes. It is<br />

sweet and loaded with acidity to balance. An<br />

exclusive gift for those hard to buy for wine<br />

drinkers. They will love the uniqueness.<br />

Lighthall Progression Sparkling Wine 2014<br />

(LCBO #468090, $20)<br />

Another bottle of bubbly made from<br />

vidal grapes by Glenn Symons at his<br />

small family-run winery in Prince<br />

Edward County. This wine offers<br />

crisp and refreshing citrus and<br />

green notes.<br />

You will notice the Lighthall bottle<br />

is capped with a crown, or bottle<br />

cap, rather than the traditional<br />

cork found on most bottles.<br />

Most sparkling wines, including<br />

Champagne, start out in bottles<br />

sealed with crown caps during<br />

secondary fermentation.<br />

Crown caps are an economical<br />

alternative to the more<br />

common mushroom cork, but<br />

they do require a bottle opener<br />

to open.


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Flat Rock Cellars Riddled Sparkling 2009<br />

(LCBO #38315, $29.95)<br />

Another Ontario sparkling wine<br />

sealed with a crown cap. In fact<br />

Niagara’s Flat Rock Cellars was the<br />

first winery in Ontario to use this<br />

cap on their VQA sparkling wine.<br />

They had to petition the VQA<br />

board for approval, arguing that<br />

it eliminates cork taint, keeps<br />

more bubbles in the bottle and<br />

is safer then corks, which can<br />

become projectiles if not handled<br />

carefully when opening.<br />

Riddled is made from chardonnay<br />

and pinot noir in the<br />

same traditional method as<br />

champagne. It’s a very complex<br />

bubbly with baked apple,<br />

stone fruit, white flower, and<br />

baked bread notes. A gracefully<br />

aged wine that will impress your guest this<br />

holiday season. This wine will pair well with<br />

everything at the dinner table on Christmas<br />

Day. And I have to believe that Madame Bollinger<br />

would have been impressed with this<br />

sparkling wine!<br />

Peller Estates Ice Cuvée Rosé<br />

(LCBO #113035, $35.35)<br />

This off-dry sparkling rosé from<br />

Niagara’s Peller Estates Winery<br />

is made from a blend of pinot<br />

noir, chardonnay and gamay<br />

noir grapes. A small dosages of<br />

cab franc and vidal ice wines are<br />

added for sweetness.<br />

There is no other Ontario<br />

sparkling wine quite like this<br />

one. Fresh and lively with<br />

juicy raspberry, cranberry<br />

and peach notes. This bubbly<br />

could replace Christmas<br />

morning mimosas.<br />

Four unique and<br />

interesting Ontario VQA<br />

sparkling wines that I highly<br />

recommended this holiday season, and<br />

all are available at the LCBO.<br />

Happy shopping!<br />

Bred for Taste<br />

We’ve created a best-in-class winery that’s<br />

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Enjoy our daily wine tours and tasting or visit<br />

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gathering at our exceptional event venue.<br />

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EssexWineReview.com<br />

519.667.2000<br />

www.bourbonstreetlondon.ca<br />

587 Oxford Street, London


50 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

spirits<br />

Pleased as Punch!<br />

What’s Old Is New Again<br />

By DARCY S. O’NEIL<br />

As the holiday season gets<br />

underway and the seemingly<br />

endless parties take over the<br />

month of <strong>December</strong>, everyone<br />

wants an easy-to-serve festive drink option.<br />

Wine and beer are the standards, and wellsuited<br />

for small events or dining out, but<br />

if you want to impress at home, give some<br />

thought to making a punch.<br />

Punch has a long history of being the<br />

centrepiece of celebrations and marking<br />

festive occasions. It is rare to find a punch<br />

served outside of the home as the logistics<br />

of serving it in bars and restaurants make<br />

it difficult. This presents an excellent<br />

opportunity to impress guests. A punch bowl<br />

offers a sophisticated presence on any dining<br />

room table and, aside from preparation<br />

hours before the event, it requires no<br />

effort to serve, freeing everyone up to<br />

mingle and enjoy the party.<br />

When properly prepared a good<br />

punch is a merrymaker. However<br />

excess sweetness can make it more<br />

of a dessert drink than the pleasant<br />

aperitif it should be. Punch should be<br />

of a sweetness similar to a mediumdry<br />

wine, which works better with<br />

food and slows down alcohol<br />

consumption. Responsible drinking is<br />

the new holiday tradition.<br />

Nutmeg and cinnamon are traditionally<br />

added to a glass of punch, and being<br />

Christmas spices, they will work well for the<br />

festive season. You can use a mixture of the<br />

two spices in a salt shaker, or you can use<br />

whole spices and place a grater next to the<br />

punch bowl.<br />

The Frost Punch is a recipe from the<br />

1940s that uses green tea to give the drink a<br />

unique flavour, but you can substitute any<br />

variety of tea to give it your personal touch.<br />

This punch is pleasantly complex.<br />

Frost Punch<br />

1 cup, strong green tea*<br />

1 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice<br />

Rinds of 2 lemons, thinly sliced<br />

½ fresh pineapple, peeled, cored and thinly<br />

sliced<br />

1 cup demerara or turbinado sugar<br />

1 cup brandy<br />

¾ cup orange liqueur (Cointreau or Triple Sec)<br />

½ cup dark rum<br />

2 cups club soda<br />

750ml bottle of Champagne, chilled<br />

Large ice block #<br />

1 Put the lemon rinds in a mixing bowl. Add the<br />

lemon juice, sliced pineapple, brandy, orange<br />

liqueur, rum and chilled green tea. Stir well.<br />

2 Transfer the bowl the refrigerator and chill the<br />

mixture for at least two hours.<br />

3 To serve, remove the bowl from the fridge<br />

just before guest arrive and slowly pour the<br />

mixture into a decorative punch bowl that has<br />

a large block of ice. Gently stir in the seltzer and<br />

Champagne. Avoid stirring vigorously as the<br />

carbonation in the seltzer and Champagne will<br />

dissipate too quickly.<br />

4 Grate or dash a bit of nutmeg and cinnamon<br />

over the drink.


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 51<br />

* A strong tea would typically be three times the<br />

normal amount of tea.<br />

#<br />

Large ice blocks melt slowly and help to prevent<br />

diluting the punch. You can make them in your<br />

freezer a day or two before the event.<br />

The holiday season is a time for socializing<br />

and relaxing, not hectically preparing drinks<br />

for guests. A good bowl of Punch will make<br />

for a joyous event.<br />

DARCY O’NEIL is a London-based bartender who writes<br />

about cocktail culture and other drink-related topics on his<br />

popular website ArtofDrink.com<br />

If you are having a small, casual gathering,<br />

or even just a quiet night away from the<br />

parties, consider making a Rum Milk<br />

Punch, which can be prepared in individual<br />

servings. This punch is similar to eggnog, the<br />

Christmas standard, but easier to make and<br />

just as good.<br />

Rum Milk Punch<br />

2 oz amber or dark rum<br />

1 tsp superfine sugar<br />

4 to 6 ounces whole milk<br />

2 drops vanilla extract<br />

Dusting of nutmeg and cinnamon<br />

1 Combine the rum, sugar, vanilla and milk in a<br />

cocktail shaker with ice and shake for 15 seconds.<br />

2 Strain into a glass and grate or dash some<br />

nutmeg and cinnamon over the top of the drink.<br />

Spice Up<br />

Your Holidays!<br />

223 Colborne St. Port Stanley ON<br />

Mon. to Sat. 10-5, Sun. 11-4<br />

(519) 782-7800 www.peppertreespice.com


52 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

spirits<br />

Craft Cocktails<br />

Compiled by BRYAN LAVERY<br />

T<br />

he modern cocktail revival<br />

has spawned the craft cocktail<br />

movement. Hand-crafted libations<br />

with pre-prohibition cocktail<br />

cred are the craze right now. The essential<br />

components of the contemporary craft<br />

cocktail comprise the use of artisanal<br />

ingredients, seasonal syrups, shrubs and<br />

infusions, premium liquors, good ice and<br />

proper garnishes. Small batch ingredients<br />

add flavour, complexity, and personality<br />

to culinary-driven craft creations and<br />

classic cocktails alike. If you really want<br />

to do your Holiday cocktail a favour, use<br />

festive garnishes that lend texture, style and<br />

a personal flavour accent to your drink.<br />

Here are a couple of festive cocktails for the<br />

Holiday season.<br />

Courtesy of Revival House, Stratford<br />

Sparkling Apple Cider Sangria<br />

Yields one pitcher. Perfect for entertaining over the holidays.<br />

1 bottle of Pinot Grigio (your choice)<br />

1 bottle of Champagne (or Secco of your<br />

choice)<br />

3 crisp apples, diced (ie. honey crisp,<br />

royal gala, pink lady)<br />

2 cups Welsey apple cider (or any good<br />

quality cider)<br />

½ cup ginger-infused Brandy* (made the<br />

day before or earlier)<br />

½ cup spiced cordial #<br />

3 cinnamon sticks & extra for garnishing<br />

each glass<br />

thumb-size piece of ginger<br />

1 In a pitcher combine Pinot Grigio, diced<br />

apples, Welsey Apple cider, ginger<br />

Brandy, spiced cordial and 3 cinnamon<br />

sticks. If pieces of ginger end up in the<br />

pitcher, there is no need to worry. It will only add<br />

more flavour to the sangria.<br />

2 Place in the refrigerator for at least an hour.<br />

After refrigeration, add half of the bottle of<br />

champagne to the pitcher before serving.<br />

Waiting to add the champagne will keep those<br />

lovely bubbles popping longer.<br />

3 You’re ready! Pour the sangria into glasses<br />

filled with ice (we prefer wine glasses). Add a<br />

cinnamon stick for garnish and top each glass<br />

with extra champagne. Enjoy!<br />

*GINGER-INFUSED BRANDY<br />

We like E & J Brandy VSOP. It has lovely caramel<br />

notes that compliment this winter cocktail<br />

beautifully.<br />

Grate a thumb-size piece of ginger and add it<br />

to the bottle, the day before or earlier. The longer<br />

the ginger is given to infuse the Brandy, the more<br />

intense the flavour, adding warmth and subtle<br />

spice to this cocktail.


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 53<br />

#<br />

SPICED CORDIAL<br />

½ cup sugar<br />

½ cup water<br />

1 cinnamon stick<br />

5 cloves<br />

1 star anise<br />

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring<br />

to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes.<br />

Remove from heat and let cool. Strain cordial and<br />

transfer to a sealable container. Store in the fridge.<br />

Yields 1 cup. Keeps indefinitely.<br />

give + share<br />

with a<br />

Revival House Martini<br />

1 oz Chambord<br />

½ oz Limoncello<br />

½ oz Bombay Sapphire<br />

1 drop rose water<br />

Champagne<br />

Dried rose petal for garnish<br />

1 In a martini shaker filled with ice combine<br />

Bombay sapphire, Chambord, limoncello<br />

2 Shake hard and strain into a chilled martini glass.<br />

3 Add 1 drop of rose water and top with<br />

champagne.<br />

4 Garnish with a dried rose petal. Enjoy!<br />

Recipe from Wolfe of Wortley next page!<br />

GIFT CARD<br />

977 Wellington Road S.<br />

226 663 5100<br />

WALK-IN GUESTS<br />

ALWAYS WELCOME<br />

chop.ca


54 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Courtesy of Wolfe of Wortley, London<br />

Fall Fashioned<br />

1½ oz Four Roses small batch bourbon<br />

½ oz Glenlivet 12 year old scotch<br />

½ oz Fig/Cinnamon Shrub*<br />

dash of angostura bitters<br />

5 drops house-made cumin & maple walnut bitters<br />

pickled apple ball<br />

red wine poached pear<br />

SUNDAY BRUNCH<br />

11am−2pm<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

1 Muddle the Fig/Cinnamon Shrub with the bitters<br />

in a short round glass. Rotate the glass so that it<br />

is lined.<br />

2 Add a large ice cube, then the bourbon and<br />

scotch.<br />

3 A tall cinnamon stick makes a good stir stick.<br />

Garnish with the apple ball and poached pear.<br />

on a spear. Enjoy!<br />

*FIG/CINNAMON SHRUB<br />

12 fresh purple figs<br />

2 cups apple cider vinegar<br />

2 cups raw sugar<br />

4 sticks of cinnamon<br />

Cover and let sit at room temperature for 3 days.<br />

Work though a fine strainer into a fresh bowl.<br />

Discard left over pulp and cinnamon sticks.<br />

Put the sugar into a large jar with a lid. Add the<br />

juice. Put the lid on and shake until well mixed.<br />

Leave in a cool dark place for two weeks, shaking<br />

the jar every couple of days.<br />

Flavour. Quality. Consistency.<br />

Organic Fair Trade Coffee<br />

Check our Facebook page<br />

for a list of retail locations<br />

or order direct<br />

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am<br />

patrick@patricksbeans.com<br />

226-378-5100


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 55<br />

the classical beat<br />

Sounds of the Season<br />

By NICOLE LAIDLER<br />

The musicians of #WePlayOn are in<br />

the process of naming, branding<br />

and launching a new musical<br />

ensemble for London, thanks to<br />

funding received from the London Arts<br />

Council. A $20,000 grant, made available<br />

through this year’s Community Arts<br />

Investment Program, has allowed the<br />

organization to hire Toronto strategist and<br />

arts administrator Patricia McKinna to<br />

develop a five-year business plan. Once<br />

approved by LAC, the plan will unlock a<br />

further $100,000 in funding for concerts and<br />

community development.<br />

In the meantime, #WePlayOn recently<br />

announced a modest three-concert season<br />

leading up to the New Year.<br />

Conductor Scott Good and guests Ian<br />

Raeburn, Hillary Watson and Chelsea<br />

Van Pelt join the musicians for ‘London<br />

Remembers’, <strong>November</strong> 11 at Metropolitan<br />

United Church. Featuring Gorecki’s<br />

Symphony No. 3, McKinna says the program<br />

“will be meaningful for generations who<br />

remember the war experience, as well as<br />

young people.”<br />

London’s Sonja Gustafson joins<br />

#WePlayOn and conductor Brian Jackson<br />

Western University Opera<br />

Sonja Gustafson<br />

<strong>December</strong> 2 at Metropolitan United Church<br />

for ‘Comfort and Joy’, an evening of seasonal<br />

favourites. The same program will be<br />

performed in Chatham the following day.<br />

On <strong>December</strong> 7, #WePlayOn’s artistic<br />

advisor Kevin Mallon leads the ensemble<br />

in the ‘Dublin’ Messiah, a re-creation of<br />

the very first performance of this perennial<br />

holiday favourite, this time at First St<br />

Andrews United Church.<br />

“We want to do a few things really well<br />

and build on that,” says McKinna. “And we<br />

hope to start 2017 with a new name and a<br />

new identity.” www.musiciansorchestralondon.<br />

wordpress.com<br />

Opera lovers are in for a treat when Western<br />

University Opera Workshop presents<br />

Suor Angelica and Gianni Schicchi, both<br />

by Puccini, <strong>November</strong> 18 to 20 at the Paul<br />

Davenport Theatre. The two one-act operas<br />

will move audience members from sorrow<br />

to laughter, promises stage manager and<br />

Western DMA student Adam Iannetta. “These<br />

shows are complete opposites,” he says.<br />

Suor Angelica is a sentimental tragedy.<br />

“Unless you have a heart made of stone<br />

you will be reduced to tears. But the second<br />

opera is just a riot. It’s a non-stop comedy<br />

from start to finish.”<br />

Working with conductor Simone Luti and


56 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

director Tom Diamond<br />

gives the student<br />

performers a real taste<br />

of what it’s like to take<br />

part in a professional<br />

production, says Iannetta.<br />

“It’s a thrill, and an<br />

extremely humbling<br />

process, to have the<br />

opportunity to work with<br />

people who have such a<br />

deep understanding of<br />

the business as well as the<br />

craft of opera.”<br />

www.wuoperaworkshop.ca<br />

The Karen Schuessler<br />

Singers launch their 24th season on<br />

<strong>November</strong> 19 at Wesley-Knox United<br />

Church. The ‘Sublime Genius’ concert<br />

features a performance of Haydn’s Lord<br />

Nelson Mass, featuring<br />

soprano Katy Clark and bassbaritone<br />

Chad Louwerse, as<br />

well as a full orchestra.<br />

“It’s been years since<br />

we’ve performed the Lord<br />

Nelson, and we just love it,”<br />

comments KSS director, Karen<br />

Schuessler. “Many people<br />

consider it the finest choralorchestral<br />

work of the entire<br />

classical period.”<br />

The masterpiece will<br />

be paired with Mozart’s<br />

Regina Coeli, K. 276, which<br />

Schuessler describes as “a seven-minute<br />

sunny sparkler.” Contemporary works by<br />

Morten Lauridsen, Ola Gjeilo, Arvo Pärt and<br />

Eric Whitacre round out the program.<br />

www.kssingers.com<br />

Chorus London kicks<br />

off its 48th season<br />

on <strong>November</strong> 26,<br />

with the annual<br />

performance of<br />

Handel’s Messiah at<br />

Dundas Street Centre<br />

United Church.<br />

“This will be my<br />

third Messiah with<br />

Chorus London,” says<br />

conductor and artistic<br />

director David Holler.<br />

“The challenge is to<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

make it new every year.”<br />

This will be a traditional<br />

performance, he notes,<br />

with the 50-voice<br />

choir joined by four<br />

soloists and a 20-piece<br />

orchestra.<br />

The concert also marks<br />

the debut of Joseph<br />

Lanza as concert master<br />

of the Concert Players<br />

Orchestra. “We are<br />

delighted to have him<br />

joining us,” says Holler.<br />

www.choruslondon.com<br />

Those looking for a lighthearted<br />

evening of seasonal music are in for<br />

a treat when Ensemble Vivant’s holiday tour<br />

makes a stop in London, <strong>December</strong> 18 at<br />

Dundas Centre United Church.<br />

The <strong>December</strong> tour takes<br />

the acclaimed chamber<br />

group to ten communities<br />

right across the province,<br />

including Orillia, Guelph,<br />

Brantford, Kingston,<br />

Mississauga, and Ottawa.<br />

A local youth choir from<br />

each community will<br />

join the program for each<br />

performance. In London,<br />

that honour goes to the<br />

Junior Amabile Singers.<br />

The program includes<br />

original renditions of<br />

traditional Christmas carols and selections<br />

from Ensemble Vivant’s popular recording,<br />

Christmas Tidings. www.ensemblevivant.com<br />

London Community<br />

Orchestra welcomes<br />

<strong>December</strong> with<br />

their own annual<br />

tradition, the ‘Young<br />

Soloists Concert’.<br />

Held <strong>December</strong> 11<br />

at Dundas Street<br />

Centre United<br />

Church, the<br />

showcase of local<br />

young talent is<br />

always a highlyanticipated<br />

event,<br />

says LCO manager,<br />

Kristin Hoffmann.


4022<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

This year’s concert features three soloists:<br />

Joshua Lee performing Saint-Saëns Violin<br />

Concerto no. 3, Matthew Zhou performing<br />

Rimsky-Korsakov’s Piano Concerto in<br />

C-sharp, and Patrick Smithers performing<br />

Arutiunian’s Concerto for Trumpet and<br />

Orchestra.<br />

Performing with a full orchestra, rather<br />

than just piano accompaniment, allows the<br />

young musicians to become more intimately<br />

acquainted with the music, explains<br />

Hoffmann. “They can experience how the<br />

soloist’s part fits with all the other parts of<br />

the orchestra,” she says. “It allows them to<br />

fine-tune their performance skills, and, for<br />

students considering careers as musicians,<br />

it can give them a sense of what that could<br />

involve, and some helpful experience.”<br />

www.lco-on.ca<br />

NICOLE LAIDLER is a former classical musician who has<br />

been writing about London’s cultural scene for more than a<br />

decade. To see what else she’s been up to visit www.spilledink.ca<br />

Develop skills & a love for music<br />

PIANO LESSONS<br />

Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher<br />

now accepting new students<br />

Individual Instruction for All Ages<br />

Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging<br />

Home-based Professional Music Studio<br />

Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation<br />

University Piano Proficiency Preparation<br />

Beth Hickey, BA (MUS)<br />

North London<br />

bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022<br />

Ensemble Vivant<br />

CHRISTMAS TIDINGS<br />

“It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year”<br />

Performing some of the world’s most beloved seasonal music, Ensemble Vivant, with<br />

special guests the Junior Amabile Singers, will present a concert in celebration of love,<br />

caring, and sharing with family and friends at this most wonderful time of the year.<br />

“No matter the genre, there is magic<br />

in Ensemble Vivant’s music making.”<br />

Rick Wilkins, O.C.<br />

Special Guests: Junior Amabile Singers<br />

directed by Wendy Landon & Jackie Norman<br />

p hoto by Denise Gr an t<br />

Sun. <strong>December</strong> 18, 2:00 pm<br />

Dundas Street United Church<br />

482 Dundas Street, London<br />

Box Office: Grand Theatre, 471 Richmond St. / 519-672-8800<br />

www.grandtheatre.com


58 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

various musical notes<br />

Award-Winning Musicians<br />

at a Venue near You<br />

By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />

The Fab Four have been undergoing<br />

a mini-revival here in London.<br />

September saw the first downtown<br />

Beatles Festival, and it was a big hit.<br />

If you missed it — shame on you — Aeolian<br />

Hall Performing Arts Centre is offering a<br />

second chance at two of the acts that rocked<br />

the festival.<br />

Beatlemania Revisited will be in on<br />

Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 19, with its “note-fornote”<br />

renditions of Beatles classics and<br />

vintage costumes and instruments. Then<br />

on <strong>December</strong> 10, The McCartney Years,<br />

another top tribute band, with front man<br />

(and local musician) Yuri Pool, plays<br />

“Lennon and McCartney,” a show featuring<br />

the later solo hits.<br />

Moptoppery not your thing? The Aeolian<br />

has a terrific line-up of other music too,<br />

including some big names in Canadian<br />

jazz, an intriguing world music event, and<br />

perennial favourites Great Lake Swimmers.<br />

On Friday, <strong>November</strong> 18, Toronto-based<br />

Jazz flautist and saxophonist Jane Bunnet,<br />

famous for her collaborations with Afro-<br />

Cuban jazz veterans, is here with Maqueque,<br />

an all-woman ensemble of young Cuban<br />

stars. Bunnet, a multiple Juno winner,<br />

Grammy nominee and Officer of the Order<br />

of Canada, has released over a dozen albums<br />

since the 1980s, including this year’s Oddara<br />

with Maqueque.<br />

Jane Bunnet<br />

Alex Pangman<br />

Then on Sunday, <strong>November</strong> 27, it’s a<br />

completely different style of jazz, as Juno<br />

nominee Alex Pangman and Her Alleycats<br />

take the stage for a Christmas Extravaganza.<br />

Pangman’s sweet spot is classic, danceable<br />

jazz of the 1920s through 1950s — authentic<br />

but with a swagger and drive that make it<br />

sound nothing like your great-grandma’s old<br />

78 rpm records. And that voice! Sassy.<br />

Speaking of jazz, local fans should know<br />

there is great free and almost-free jazz to<br />

be had in London. The long-running Jazz<br />

for the People series (free) is back at the<br />

Wolf Performance Hall (Central Library<br />

downtown). Two concerts of note coming<br />

up: local multi-instrumentalist and arranger<br />

Peter Hysen (bass, trombone, tuba) brings<br />

his Septet on Wednesday, <strong>November</strong> 23.<br />

On Wednesday, <strong>December</strong> 14, it’s Sandy<br />

MacKay’s Holiday Special, featuring the<br />

drummer, bandleader and JFTP mainstay.<br />

(Come early for the best seats.)<br />

The London Jazz Society also runs a<br />

series of bargain-priced Sunday afternoon<br />

concerts at the Mocha Shrine Centre on<br />

Colborne St. London sax man Chris Murphy<br />

is there with his band on <strong>November</strong> 6, and<br />

then it’s the Mark Henning Jazz Quartet on<br />

<strong>December</strong> 4, featuring guitarist/vocalist<br />

Henning and pianist Don Di Carlo.<br />

Back to the Aeolian. Flamenco, the soulful<br />

music of southern Spain’s Roma people, is<br />

a genre not well understood or appreciated


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

on this side of the Atlantic. The Jorge Miguel<br />

Flamenco Ensemble, coming to the Hall<br />

Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 12, could change that.<br />

Miguel, a Spanish-Canadian trained in<br />

Spain, put his ensemble together for just<br />

that purpose. The show includes his virtuoso<br />

guitar, as well as dance and song, the three<br />

pillars of the flamenco form. Expect an<br />

intense, exciting performance.<br />

Great Lake Swimmers bring their<br />

decidedly more laid-back folk-rock sounds<br />

to Aeolian Hall on Friday, <strong>December</strong> 2. Tony<br />

Dekker and his Toronto-based band are<br />

currently touring their fifth studio album,<br />

Forest of Arms, released earlier this year.<br />

It’s a typically melodic, mostly acoustic set.<br />

You’ll leave humming.<br />

Fred Eaglesmith<br />

www.sunfest.on.ca<br />

JORGE MIGUEL<br />

FLAMENCO ENSEMBLE<br />

Saturday, <strong>November</strong> 12<br />

AN OLD SCHOOL YULE:<br />

A MATT DUSK CHRISTMAS<br />

Tuesday, <strong>December</strong> 6<br />

World Music<br />

& Jazz Series<br />

<strong>2016</strong> - 17<br />

Series Sponsor<br />

JANE BUNNETT<br />

& MAQUEQUE<br />

Friday, <strong>November</strong> 18<br />

NEXT GENERATION LEAHY<br />

Wednesday, <strong>December</strong> 7<br />

London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave<br />

A JAZZY CHRISTMAS w. THE WOODHOUSE & BARBRA LICA - Thurs. Dec. 15<br />

LADYSMITH BLACK MAMBAZO - Thurs. February 16<br />

(at London Music Hall, 185 Queens Avenue)<br />

All Concerts ~ Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Concert at 8:00 pm<br />

Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian<br />

Hall , 795 Dundas St ., London<br />

Tickets available at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall Box Office (519-672-1967),<br />

The Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca, aeolianhall.ca, or ticketscene.ca<br />

Legendary singer-songwriter Fred<br />

Eaglesmith, probably the hardest-working<br />

musician in the country — his Traveling<br />

Steam Show tours constantly — plays two<br />

dates in the area this fall. On <strong>November</strong> 10<br />

he’s at the London Music Club. If you miss<br />

him there, he’s at Revival Hall (the old Church<br />

Restaurant) in Stratford on <strong>November</strong> 18.<br />

London Music Hall (note: Hall, not Club)<br />

has some great acts coming this fall. Steve<br />

Earle & the Dukes, grizzled veterans of<br />

the roots music scene, are in on Thursday<br />

<strong>November</strong> 17. Anyone who watched the great<br />

but under-appreciated HBO series Treme,<br />

about the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina in<br />

the Big Easy, will remember Earle’s regular<br />

turn as street musician Harley Watt.<br />

Basia Bulat, whose fourth album Good<br />

Advice came out earlier this year and was<br />

shortlisted for the Polaris Music Prize, brings<br />

her melodic alt-pop sounds to LMH on<br />

Friday <strong>November</strong> 25. In a similar vein, the<br />

good young folk-pop outfit Half Moon Run<br />

is in on Monday, <strong>December</strong> 5. On Friday,<br />

<strong>December</strong> 9, it’s hard-rockers the Trews,<br />

from Antigonish, Nova Scotia. The Trews are<br />

also playing Sarnia’s Station Music Hall on<br />

<strong>December</strong> 2.<br />

Simple Plan, the Quebec-based punk-pop<br />

outfit, is at the Bud on Thursday, <strong>November</strong><br />

17. They’re touring their latest album, Taking<br />

One for the Team. (It features a very cool<br />

cover shot.)<br />

Best for last? The legendary, the venerable<br />

Gordon Lightfoot is at the Capitol Theatre in<br />

Chatham on Wednesday, <strong>November</strong> 16. How<br />

come we didn’t get him in London? Never<br />

mind, Chatham is only an hour or so down<br />

the 401: worth the drive. If you can still get<br />

tickets.<br />

Basia Bulat<br />

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance writer.


60 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

theatre<br />

The Magic of Holiday Theatre<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

There’s something magical about<br />

theatre at Christmas. It gives<br />

busy families a chance to slow<br />

down and enjoy an outing that<br />

doesn’t involve the usual busy activities of<br />

the season. And Christmas theatre shows<br />

usually come with a bit of pixie dust, song<br />

and dance, and merriment: the perfect<br />

ingredients for an escape during the rush of<br />

the holidays.<br />

The season kicks off at Budweiser Gardens<br />

in downtown London on <strong>November</strong> 9th with<br />

Elf The Broadway Musical (for one evening<br />

only) as part of the Broadway series. This<br />

is a live version of the 2003 hit film, Elf. It<br />

is the charming story of an orphan, Buddy, To catch this classic show, follow the<br />

who ends up at the North Pole helping yellow brick road down to The Grand from<br />

make Christmas happen. The production <strong>November</strong> 22nd to <strong>December</strong> 31st. Book<br />

will feature direction<br />

early because a<br />

by Sam Scalamoni<br />

Christmas trip to<br />

and choreography by<br />

The Grand is a longstanding<br />

tradition<br />

Connor Gallagher.<br />

The Grand Theatre<br />

for many people<br />

in London is the go-to<br />

from across the<br />

place for a special<br />

region.<br />

holiday show. This<br />

In Port Stanley,<br />

year, reminding us<br />

country music fans<br />

that “there’s no place<br />

will want to catch<br />

like home”, The Grand<br />

Johnny Cash a<br />

presents The Wizard<br />

Country Christmas<br />

of Oz by L. Frank<br />

at the Port Stanley<br />

Baum with music and<br />

Festival Theatre, with<br />

lyrics by Harold Arlen<br />

Jim Yorfido as the man in black two performances<br />

and E. Y. Harburg.<br />

on <strong>November</strong> 26th.<br />

“Dorothy and her<br />

Billed as “interactive<br />

friends take us on a journey along the yellow theatre” it stars Johnny Cash impersonator<br />

brick road as never experienced before!” Jim Yorfido and the Memphis Cats band.<br />

Walk the line over to Port Stanley for some<br />

foot stompin’ fun! C<br />

For theatrical entertainment of a different<br />

type, sports enthusiasts and ballet lovers can<br />

team up and attend Christmas Extravaganza<br />

on Ice on <strong>December</strong> 10th at Budweiser<br />

Gardens. This combination of world-class<br />

figure skating, presented by the Russian<br />

company Igor Bobrin Theatre, is billed as a


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 61<br />

combination of ice dancing, free skate and<br />

ballet. It features gold medalists Natalia<br />

Bestemianova and Andrei Bukin, from the<br />

Calgary Olympics. “The production begins<br />

with one-act ballet,<br />

Cinderella, followed<br />

by solo numbers in<br />

the second half of the<br />

program.”<br />

Cinderella in<br />

another form is on<br />

stage in St. Jacobs<br />

at the Playhouse<br />

<strong>November</strong> 15th to<br />

<strong>December</strong> 24th.<br />

Cinderella the Panto<br />

is a family-friendly<br />

musical, “a clever and<br />

contemporary makeover in this glittering<br />

stage production”.<br />

The Imperial Theatre in downtown Sarnia<br />

is presenting several holiday-themed shows<br />

over the season: Elvis: A Christmas Special<br />

on <strong>November</strong> 24th; Nightingale Chorus, the<br />

Spirit of Christmas <strong>December</strong> 7th to 10th;<br />

and Rock n Roll Christmas presented by local<br />

musicians <strong>December</strong> 16th and 17th. Located<br />

near the fabulous Lola’s Lounge, any one of<br />

these would make a fun date-night dinner<br />

and show combination.<br />

But not all on the<br />

stages in <strong>November</strong><br />

and <strong>December</strong> is<br />

jingle bells and good<br />

cheer. Those looking<br />

for other options<br />

might consider<br />

checking out The<br />

Arts Project in<br />

downtown London.<br />

The winter season<br />

kicks off with Q1<br />

Hamlet, presented<br />

by Theatre Studies<br />

and the Department of English and Writing<br />

Studies at Western University.<br />

Billed as “Shakespeare’s Hamlet as you’ve<br />

never seen it before” Q1 is the First Quarto<br />

of The Tragicall Historie of Hamlet, from<br />

the earliest printed version of Shakespeare’s<br />

most famous tragedy. The production<br />

features live original music and includes a<br />

BY L. Frank Baum<br />

WITH MUSIC AND LYRICS BY<br />

Harold Arlen & E. Y. Harburg<br />

BACKGROUND MUSIC BY<br />

Herbert Stothart<br />

Season Sponsor<br />

Title Sponsor<br />

TICKETS 519.672.8800<br />

GRANDTHEATRE.COM


62 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

bonus short Tudor Interlude, John Rastell’s<br />

“Four Elements.” Q1 runs from <strong>November</strong><br />

9th to 12th.<br />

The London Community Players and the<br />

Palace Theatre in Old East Village present<br />

two internationally-themed productions in<br />

<strong>November</strong>. Someone Who’ll Watch Over Me<br />

by Frank McGuiness is situated in Beirut.<br />

The story is told by three men being held<br />

captive by terrorists. “Each comes to know<br />

himself through listening to the stories,<br />

sorrows and joys of the others.” It runs<br />

<strong>November</strong> 6th to 12th and 16th to 19th, with a<br />

matinee on <strong>November</strong> 13th.<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Q1 Hamlet, at The Arts Project in London<br />

The Palace then takes us to Russia for the<br />

love story of Anton Chekhov and his wife.<br />

I Take Your Hand In Mine is based on love<br />

letters between the two. It runs <strong>November</strong><br />

20th to 26th at 8 pm and there is a matinee at<br />

2 pm on <strong>November</strong> 27th.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to eatdrink<br />

magazine. She is also Manager, Communications & Media<br />

Relations, at King’s University College in London.<br />

Elvis: A Christmas Special at Sarnia’s Imperial Theatre<br />

THE DONNELLYS RETURN<br />

TO TELL THEIR SIDE OF THINGS<br />

MAINSTAGE<br />

FEB 7-11 20<br />

17<br />

A CATALYST THEATRE<br />

PRODUCTION<br />

WRITTEN, COMPOSED, AND DIRECTED BY<br />

Jonathan Christenson<br />

TICKETS 519.672.8800<br />

GRANDTHEATRE.COM


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 63<br />

books<br />

Chicken in the Mango Tree<br />

Food and Life in a Thai-Khmer Village<br />

by Jeffrey Alford<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Many people travel to eat exotic<br />

food directly from the source.<br />

Those who are even more<br />

adventurous stay for extended<br />

periods to not only enjoy the food, but also<br />

to learn to prepare it and to understand how<br />

it defines culture. Food writer Jeffrey Alford<br />

is one of those adventurous eaters. Chicken<br />

in the Mango Tree (Douglas & McIntyre,<br />

2015, $26.95) provides a glimpse into an<br />

agricultural year in the Thai village of Kravan<br />

that he has called home for over four years.<br />

Kravan is near the Thailand-Cambodia<br />

border, and Alford describes the food as<br />

being in a culinary niche that is uniquely<br />

Khmer, a derivative of Thai cuisine that<br />

strays from the characteristic pad Thai of<br />

Bangkok noodle shops.<br />

Alford himself is a North American<br />

hybrid — born in Wyoming, with childhood<br />

memories of the United States, and living a<br />

good portion of his adult life in Toronto. He<br />

has co-authored a number of well-known<br />

cookbooks, including Hot Sour Salty Sweet<br />

and Flatbreads and Flavors, which have both<br />

won the James Beard Award for Cookbook<br />

of the Year. This year he has his sights on<br />

Pea’s family preparing food in the outdoor kitchen<br />

further<br />

recognition.<br />

Chicken in<br />

the Mango<br />

Tree is on<br />

the <strong>2016</strong><br />

shortlist for<br />

Taste Canada’s Culinary<br />

Narrative award. Going beyond a<br />

traditional cookbook, Alford beautifully<br />

blends a memoir-like narrative to bring<br />

Author Jeffrey Alford<br />

cultural context to 30 Khmer-Thai recipes<br />

that he has gleaned from observing his<br />

partner, Pea, who is a skilled farmer, forager,<br />

gardener, and home cook.<br />

About Pea, he surmises “that 90 percent<br />

of the time, she’s either thinking about the<br />

farm, the back garden, cooking or eating.” In<br />

the village, food is not something that can be<br />

picked up at a drive-thru window and eaten<br />

on the fly. The approach to food in their<br />

household is integral to the entire structure<br />

of one’s day — collecting ingredients, planting<br />

and harvesting rice, communal eating.<br />

Alford often wakes up to the sound of Pea<br />

grinding sauces and pastes with the mortar<br />

and pestle for the day’s meals. Even with<br />

years of experience researching his own


64 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

cookbooks, he believes that his cooking does<br />

not compare to Pea’s. Scaling and filleting<br />

fresh fish from the backyard pond for Grilled<br />

Salted Tilapia does not come as naturally to<br />

him as it does to Pea, who has spent a lifetime<br />

preparing food in Thailand. One dish<br />

Alford does contribute to the village is popcorn.<br />

It is something the locals have never<br />

seen before and they quickly learn to add<br />

Sriracha sauce to make it even better.<br />

Few people in the Western world fully<br />

appreciate the “free food” that Alford<br />

experiences at every meal. Obtaining free<br />

food requires the agility to catch fish in<br />

streams and grasshoppers in fields with<br />

your bare hands, which Pea does with great<br />

proficiency. The variety of foods available in<br />

modern supermarkets pales in comparison<br />

to the variety that foraging offers, not only<br />

with plants, leaves, flowers, and vegetables<br />

from their neighbourhood, but also with<br />

a range of critters from frogs and shrimp<br />

to crickets and scorpions. Their diet is<br />

vegetable heavy; platters called pak are filled<br />

with whatever vegetation is in season, on<br />

the farm or in the wild, to become the core<br />

of most meals. The recipes Alford offers<br />

include simple instructions and short lists<br />

of ingredients; even though he includes<br />

the regional items to make the dishes<br />

authentically flavourful, he does provide<br />

substitutions for more accessible ingredients<br />

from North American market<br />

Ingredients that have no substitute are<br />

the crickets and grasshoppers used as a<br />

main source of protein in the Khmer diet.<br />

Alford proposes that Canadians could<br />

possibly purchase crickets from farms,<br />

similar to that of a friend of his in Grey<br />

County, Ontario where they are raised as<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Fresh eggplants and herbs<br />

live snacks for exotic pets. The topic of using<br />

insects as a food source is piquing some<br />

interest in North America and Alford writes,<br />

“the problem is not getting people to like<br />

eating crickets; it’s a problem of getting the<br />

approval of government food inspectors.” He<br />

also likes a salad made with the eggs of red<br />

ants, which he equates to Thai caviar. In his<br />

mind, this dish is the ultimate payback. The<br />

ants are known for biting humans without<br />

any harmful effects, except for annoyance,<br />

and Alford eats the ant eggs with vengeful<br />

thoughts, knowing the adult ants have been<br />

responsible for ravaging his body with bites<br />

over the years.<br />

The photos in this book provide further<br />

reason that Alford’s work is award-worthy.<br />

Baskets of food sold in open-air markets;<br />

Pea’s family harvesting in the rice fields;<br />

cooking over an open fire in the outdoor<br />

kitchen — all images that paint the backdrop<br />

to village life. The photos also beautifully<br />

illustrate the food that is found in this part<br />

of the world, which Alford has discovered<br />

is hard to break away from. He may not<br />

be coming home any time soon, but with<br />

this book he has found a way to share the<br />

flavours and stories of Kravan.<br />

The Taste Canada Awards are in the 19th year<br />

of honouring Canadian culinary writing.<br />

The Gold and Silver winners in all categories,<br />

including Culinary Narratives (that Jeffrey<br />

Alford is nomiated for), will be announced at<br />

an awards gala on <strong>November</strong> 14th.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer based out of Chatham.<br />

He keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting the<br />

bookstores and restaurants of London.<br />

Food vendors in an open-air market


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 65<br />

cookbooks<br />

The Baker In Me<br />

By Daphna Rabinovitch<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

As our family has grown older we’ve<br />

begun to pick and choose which<br />

Christmas traditions we keep<br />

and which we let go. I still love<br />

the holiday but am likely to skip “decking<br />

the halls with boughs of holly” in favour of<br />

a glass of wine and a movie marathon with<br />

my husband, dog and cat all curled up on<br />

the couch. But one activity we’ve never given<br />

up is the baking. My mom and I continue to<br />

share new recipes, recreate old favorites and<br />

indulge in our perverse love of fruitcake at<br />

Christmas. My favourite part of the holidays<br />

has always been the anticipation and<br />

preparation. <strong>December</strong> may be the month of<br />

parties but <strong>November</strong> is the month of baking.<br />

This year we were delighted to be able to<br />

use a few recipes from The Baker In Me by<br />

Daphna Rabinovitch. Most familiar to us as<br />

director of the Canadian Living test kitchen<br />

and co-host of “Canadian Living Cooks” for<br />

many years, Rabinovitch is now a culinary<br />

consultant based in Toronto. She describes<br />

herself as a trained pastry chef with the<br />

heart of a home baker and this is apparent<br />

in her cookbook. She impresses upon us the<br />

importance of the science behind baking<br />

while maintaining the warmth of a favourite<br />

aunt lovingly passing down secret family<br />

recipes. Anyone who can write three pages<br />

on the joy of baking brownies is someone I’d<br />

want to have coffee with.<br />

When I bake goodies I<br />

tend to stick with my tried<br />

and true recipes but at<br />

Christmas all bets are off.<br />

No recipe is too involved or<br />

has too many ingredients.<br />

It’s only in a fit of holiday<br />

enthusiasm that I would<br />

attempt making a seven<br />

layer anything, but Rabinovitch’s<br />

Seven-Layer Bars<br />

with Marshmallows and<br />

Dried Cranberries are as<br />

easy to<br />

make as<br />

they are<br />

delicious.<br />

It’s an<br />

unexpected<br />

combination<br />

but the contrast of sweet/tangy<br />

and chewy/gooey is sublime.<br />

My family members are all aware<br />

of my long-time obsession with the<br />

perfect shortbread cookie, so none will be<br />

surprised to see Hazelnut Shortbread Batons<br />

on offer this year. What they won’t know is<br />

how much it pains me to add baking powder<br />

to the recipe. But I trusted Daphna and she<br />

was right, of course. It adds that extra bit of<br />

lift needed to accommodate the chopped<br />

hazelnuts in the dough. The additional dip in<br />

chocolate and hazelnuts turned these from<br />

family treats to gift ideas in a moment.<br />

Each year I like to try making something<br />

different from my regular round of recipes.<br />

No one will ever forget the year I tried to<br />

revolutionize hot chocolate by adding<br />

homemade Irish Cream marshmallows.<br />

This year I made the author’s My Favourite<br />

Rugelach recipe — because it’s fun to say and<br />

because they are often served at Hanukkah.<br />

These are messy and amazing and seem<br />

exotically different from<br />

the usual drop cookies.<br />

They are also addictive<br />

and endlessly variable.<br />

You will find yourself<br />

searching through<br />

your baking cupboard<br />

trying to invent new<br />

filling combinations.<br />

I recommend making<br />

several batches of dough<br />

and inviting as many<br />

Author Daphna Rabinovitch


66 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

friends as will comfortably fit in your kitchen<br />

to fill, bake and eat these wonderful treats.<br />

The Baker in Me is a fantastic book for<br />

the Christmas season but it’s a valuable<br />

addition to the bookshelf of any baker at any<br />

time of year. I figure that by the time I get<br />

through the bars, cookies, cakes and breads<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

this winter, it will be just about time to start<br />

thinking about fruit tarts. Now that is a gift<br />

that keeps on giving.<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in<br />

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes and photos excerpted from The Baker in Me, by Daphna Rabinovitch. Reprinted with permission of Whitecap Books, <strong>2016</strong><br />

My Favourite Rugelach<br />

Makes 4 dozen rugelach<br />

What I’d really like to know is why I didn’t grow up with rugelach. Perhaps my mom<br />

thought that what was available wasn’t good enough to serve or maybe there just<br />

weren’t any around. I’ll never really know. In any case, once I did discover rugelach and<br />

how easy they were to make, I just kept on making them.<br />

Rugelach dough is extremely simple to make. While some rugelach doughs are yeast<br />

based, I have chosen to go with the simpler non-yeasted version. This is the one I<br />

make at home all the time.<br />

Some rugelach doughs<br />

contain an egg or even<br />

include some sour cream<br />

for extra richness. I’ve<br />

added a little sweetener<br />

and some lemon zest for<br />

flavour. The zest tickles<br />

the tang inherent in the<br />

cream cheese, bringing it<br />

to the forefront. It’s better<br />

to use the brick-style<br />

cream cheese for making<br />

rugelach and to make sure<br />

it’s at room temperature. If<br />

it’s too cold, it simply won’t<br />

combine well with the<br />

butter.<br />

There are no rules or hard<br />

and fast formulas when it<br />

comes to the filling. The<br />

jam or spread is meant to<br />

act as a glue for the nuts<br />

or chips, so you’re free<br />

to choose whatever you<br />

want. Same goes for the<br />

combination of nuts and<br />

other goodies. The two<br />

necessary ingredients are<br />

some sugar and cinnamon<br />

to fully qualify for rugelach<br />

status.<br />

You may find that as you<br />

roll each triangle into<br />

a crescent, some of the<br />

inclusions fall out. There’s<br />

no need to panic. Simply<br />

tuck them into the folds


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

in the pastry. This is one place where you definitely<br />

want to use parchment, otherwise jam can ooze<br />

out of the dough, making the crescents stick to the<br />

pan. Just remember to transfer the rugelach to a<br />

separate wire rack while they’re still warm, or else<br />

they will stick to the parchment.<br />

1 cup (250 mL) unsalted butter, softened (8<br />

oz/250 g)<br />

8 oz (250 g) cream cheese, softened<br />

3 Tbsp (45 mL) icing sugar<br />

2 tsp (10 mL) finely grated lemon zest<br />

2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour<br />

Pinch of salt<br />

1 large egg, lightly beaten, at room temperature<br />

3 Tbsp (45 mL) coarse sugar (optional)<br />

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle<br />

attachment, or using a hand-held mixer, beat the<br />

butter with the cream cheese for 3 minutes or until<br />

light and fluffy. Beat in the sugar; beat for another 2<br />

minutes. Beat in the lemon zest.<br />

Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the flour and salt<br />

and mix just until combined and a dough is formed.<br />

Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface<br />

and knead very lightly into a ball. Cut the ball<br />

into quarters; shape each quarter into a ball and<br />

flatten into discs. Wrap each disc in plastic wrap;<br />

refrigerate for at least 2 hours or for up to 2 days.<br />

Let the dough stand at room temperature for 20<br />

minutes before rolling.<br />

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line 2 cookie<br />

sheets with parchment paper; set aside.<br />

FILLING<br />

In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients of your<br />

chosen filling, except for the jam or peanut butter.<br />

On a lightly floured surface, roll out one of the discs<br />

to a 10-inch (25 cm) or 11-inch (28 cm) circle. Spread<br />

3 Tbsp (45 mL) jam or peanut butter evenly over<br />

the surface. Sprinkle with one-quarter of the filling.<br />

Cut the dough into 12 pie-shaped wedges. Starting<br />

from the wide end, roll up each wedge to form a<br />

crescent shape. Transfer to the prepared cookie<br />

sheets, spacing each rugelach about 2 inches (5 cm)<br />

apart. Repeat with remaining dough and filling.<br />

Brush egg over 1 tray of rugelach. Sprinkle with<br />

coarse sugar, if desired. One sheet at a time, bake<br />

in the centre of the preheated oven until golden<br />

brown, 20–25 minutes. Cool the cookie sheet on<br />

a wire rack for a while. Transfer the cookies to the<br />

wire rack to cool completely.<br />

Repeat with remaining trays of rugelach, cooling<br />

the pans slightly before adding unbaked crescents<br />

to them. (Cookies can be stored in an airtight<br />

container at room temperature for up to 5 days.)<br />

Alternate Fillings from Daphna Rabinovitch<br />

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68 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Hazelnut Shortbread Batons<br />

Makes about 2 dozen cookies<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

I will never tire of the magical combination of hazelnuts and chocolate. They work so hard to<br />

bring out the best in each other. The addition of baking powder to the shortbread (heavens!<br />

Is that what you might call blasphemy!?!) lightens the dough for an exceptional texture.<br />

1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour<br />

½ cup (125 mL) finely chopped toasted hazelnuts<br />

½ tsp (2 mL) baking powder<br />

¼ tsp (1 mL) salt<br />

½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, softened (4 oz/125 g)<br />

½ cup (125 mL) granulated or superfine sugar<br />

½ tsp (2 mL) vanilla<br />

GARNISH<br />

6 oz (175 g) semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped<br />

½ cup (125 mL) finely chopped toasted hazelnuts<br />

Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper; set aside.<br />

Whisk together the flour, hazelnuts, baking powder and salt in a bowl; set aside.<br />

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a hand-held<br />

mixer, beat the butter for 1 minute. Beat in the sugar for 2 minutes. Scrape down the<br />

dough. Beat in the vanilla. Remove the bowl from the stand.<br />

Using a wooden spoon, stir half of<br />

the flour into the butter mixture.<br />

Stir in the remaining flour just<br />

until incorporated.<br />

Using tablespoonfuls, roll the<br />

dough into 3-inch (8 cm) logs on<br />

your work surface. Spacing the<br />

cookies about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart,<br />

transfer them to the prepared<br />

cookie sheets.<br />

One sheet at a time, bake in the<br />

centre of the preheated oven until<br />

the cookies start to turn golden<br />

around the edges, about 20<br />

minutes. Cool the cookie sheet on<br />

a wire rack for 2 minutes. Transfer<br />

the cookies to the wire rack to<br />

cool completely. Repeat with the<br />

remaining cookie dough, cooling,<br />

the pans slightly before adding<br />

unbaked cookie dough to them.<br />

GARNISH<br />

Melt the chocolate in the top of<br />

a double boiler set over hot, not<br />

boiling water. Cool slightly. Dip<br />

one end of each cookie into the<br />

melted chocolate, lightly shaking<br />

off any excess. Dip the chocolate<br />

end into the chopped hazelnuts<br />

until coated. Transfer to a wire rack<br />

until the chocolate is set. (Cookies<br />

can be stored in an airtight<br />

container at room temperature for<br />

up to 3 days.)


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 69<br />

Seven-Layer Bars with Marshmallows and Dried Cranberries<br />

Makes about 2½ dozen bars<br />

These bars have been around<br />

forever, and are sometimes<br />

called magic bars, Hello Dolly<br />

bars or seven-layer bars. This<br />

particular variation sports<br />

marshmallows—which melt<br />

into a gooey, sticky crater—as<br />

well as tart dried cranberries<br />

and coconut. It’s an<br />

extravaganza in your mouth.<br />

What is even more<br />

impressive is that they’re<br />

incredibly quick to assemble<br />

and bake. These are the reason<br />

I always have sweetened<br />

condensed milk in my pantry.<br />

2½ cups (625 mL) graham<br />

wafer crumbs<br />

¾ cup (180 mL) unsalted<br />

butter, melted (6 oz/175<br />

g)<br />

1 can (300 mL) sweetened<br />

condensed milk<br />

1 cup (250 mL) mini<br />

marshmallows<br />

1 cup (250 mL) coarsely<br />

chopped pecans<br />

1 cup (250 mL) dried<br />

cranberries<br />

¾ cup (180 mL) semisweet<br />

chocolate chips<br />

¾ cup (180 mL) shredded<br />

sweetened coconut<br />

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Lightly grease<br />

the sides and bottom of a 13- × 9-inch (33 × 23 cm)<br />

metal cake pan. Line with parchment paper so that<br />

’S 2015<br />

the bottom is covered and there is a 2-inch (5 cm)<br />

L FLAVOUR<br />

overhang on the 2 long sides.<br />

Place the graham cracker crumbs into a bowl. Pour<br />

the melted butter over the crumbs, stirring with a<br />

fork until thoroughly combined. Pat the moistened<br />

crumbs into an even layer on the bottom of the<br />

prepared cake pan.<br />

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Drizzle one-third of the sweetened condensed<br />

milk over the base. Then sprinkle with the<br />

marshmallows, pecans, cranberries, chocolate chips<br />

and coconut, in that order. Drizzle the remainder of<br />

the sweetened condensed milk over top.<br />

Bake in the centre of the preheated oven until<br />

lightly browned, about 25–30 minutes. Let the bars<br />

cool in the pan on a wire rack for at least 2 hours.<br />

Cut into bars (or cut what you need, cover the pan<br />

with plastic wrap and store at room temperature<br />

for up to 5 days).<br />

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70 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

the lighter side<br />

Wrapping Up the Holidays<br />

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD<br />

I<br />

don’t think anyone would call me a<br />

grinch for observing that a great deal<br />

of the true holiday spirit has been<br />

hijacked. It’s becoming increasingly<br />

difficult not to feel resentful, when trudging<br />

zombie-like through the malls (especially<br />

right after work), after battling through a<br />

parking lot full of angry drivers and then,<br />

finally inside, overheated, overwhelmed<br />

and over-sprayed by the perfume sampler,<br />

discovering the stores to be full of the Same.<br />

Stuff. Everywhere. “Bits of old tat,” my<br />

mother might intone darkly. And certainly<br />

not suitable for the people we love.<br />

And yet, in desperation, we<br />

sometimes buy anyway, quietly<br />

shunning the thought that perhaps<br />

a slim box of wafer-thin chocolates<br />

might have been a better office gift<br />

after all, rather than that red-nosed<br />

reindeer that defecates candy.<br />

These are the kind of mistakes<br />

that one can make strung out on too<br />

much coffee and not enough food.<br />

Speaking of food, I am often reminded<br />

during the holiday season of that wonderful<br />

actor/philanthropist Paul Newman, whose<br />

revered salad dressings were, in part, a<br />

reaction to this very issue. One of Newman’s<br />

passions was cooking, and he took to giving<br />

homemade treats as presents, decanting<br />

his salad dressings into wine bottles with<br />

a humble label attached, to the absolute<br />

delight of every recipient. We all know the<br />

rest of the story, since the products eventually<br />

went commercial and 100% of the after-tax<br />

profit from those salad dressings still goes to<br />

charity. Now this is in the spirit of the season!<br />

That said, I am not suggesting that those<br />

Angry Shoppers in the first paragraph go<br />

home and start creating garlicky emulsions<br />

of their own, when there is already barely<br />

enough time to turn around. But the gift<br />

of food — in any form — can be one of the<br />

presents that people often appreciate most.<br />

Newly away-from-home students love<br />

electronics and gift certificates, but a pallet<br />

of KD, Red-Bull or instant oatmeal will also<br />

be well-received, and enjoyed in the long<br />

(and possibly impoverished) dark days of<br />

winter ahead. I have given “pie vouchers” to<br />

my sons for a few Christmases now. They are<br />

laminated pie-shaped cards drawn badly by<br />

myself, which can be cashed in for tourtière,<br />

fruit or chicken curry pies. (Some conditions<br />

may apply…) The promise, or indeed, the<br />

mention of pie has never produced the kind<br />

of stilted, polite “Well! Thank-you-verymuch!”<br />

reaction that foretells a return trip<br />

to the dreaded mall in order to get the right<br />

colour/model/issue/size.<br />

With only a little forethought,<br />

unique jams made in season (by<br />

you, or someone else!) can be put<br />

into a small basket bursting with<br />

the remembrance of warmer days,<br />

and ready to be spread on expensive<br />

crackers or paired with artisanal<br />

cheeses tucked alongside. Merchants<br />

abound to help with splendid olive oils,<br />

homemade tomato sauces, bags of gourmet<br />

rice, local anything, all readily available.<br />

And what new parent (or heck, any<br />

parent!) would not appreciate a gift card for<br />

a spot that offers ready-made meals — or<br />

a restaurant voucher with free babysitting<br />

thrown in?<br />

Of course, if you have the time or inclination,<br />

absolutely why not make something<br />

yourself; tea loaves come together in minutes,<br />

and there are many fruit cake recipes (the kind<br />

that young people actually like). Make three or<br />

four at a time. Use organic everything you can,<br />

and say so on the label.<br />

Food is all about love, after all. You can<br />

never get the wrong colour. And it always<br />

fits.<br />

SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer and<br />

regular contributor to eatdrink. Read more of Sue’s work on her<br />

blog www.speranzanow.com


№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 71


72 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 62 | <strong>November</strong>/<strong>December</strong> <strong>2016</strong><br />

Grab your skates and head downtown<br />

to the Covent Garden Market<br />

Rotary Rink<br />

Skating rink is open everyday<br />

(skating only)<br />

Monday to Friday:<br />

11am — 7pm<br />

Saturday: 10am — 7pm<br />

Sunday: 11am — 6pm<br />

Weather permitting<br />

coventmarket.com<br />

/coventgardenmarket<br />

Market Hours<br />

Monday to Thursday: 8am — 6pm<br />

Friday: 8am — 7:30pm<br />

Saturday: 8am — 6pm<br />

Sunday: 11am — 4pm

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