1. Good Organic Gardening - January-February 2016
1. Good Organic Gardening - January-February 2016 1. Good Organic Gardening - January-February 2016
Parsnip | GROWING to grow through the dry season. Allow around 18–20 weeks from planting to harvest. Parsnips grow best in light, deep soils that allow the roots to penetrate easily. A mature parsnip can form a 30cm-long root, so prepare the soil to at least this depth before planting. As with carrots, avoid digging in fresh organic matter before sowing seed — there’s a link between excess organic matter in the soil and forking of the root. A good option is to plant parsnips in soil that was well fertilised for a previous crop, such as a leafy vegetable, to make use of the residual nutrients. Alternatively, thoroughly dig in organic fertiliser other than manure before planting. To give seeds the highest chance of germination, sow them directly into damp prepared soil, planting in rows. Parsnips don’t transplant well, so are not usually available as seedlings. Sow the seed in shallow rows around 6–10mm deep, then lightly cover the seed with fine soil or a layer of vermiculite. A fine layer of mulch over the soil surface can also help encourage germination by ensuring the soil stays damp. It can take 3–4 weeks for seeds to germinate, so patience is also required. Try to space the seeds 10cm apart to allow room for the plants to reach their mature size but, if necessary, thin seedlings when they reach 5cm high. Growing parsnips Although poor germination can make parsnips a challenge to grow, once they are growing they tend to be free of pest and disease problems but do need protection from snails and slugs. Keep the soil moist and free of weeds as the seeds germinate and grow. Once they are growing, apply a side dressing of organic fertiliser or liquidfeed the growing plants. Keep them well watered to avoid any stress that may send the parsnip plants into premature flower formation. Left unharvested, parsnips, which are biennial plants, produce flower stems in their second year, as does another of parsnip’s close relatives, parsley. Parsnip flowers are yellow, arranged in umbels and followed by broad, flat seeds that should be sown soon after they ripen. Parsnip has broad, flat leaves a little like those of parsley or coriander. Harvest, storage & preserving As well as looking good in a mix of roast vegies, parsnips are highly nutritious, supplying potassium along with vitamin C and dietary fibre. They are naturally sweet but the sweetest parsnips are grown Parsnip label Common name: Parsnip Botanical name: Pastinaca sativa Family: Apiaceae (carrot family) Aspect & soil: Sun; deep, well-drained soil Best climate: All Habit: Biennial grown as annual root vegetable Propagation: Seed Difficulty: Moderate in cooler climates. They benefit from a winter chill before harvest, which increases their sweetness by converting starches in the root to sugars. Parsnip roots can be left in the ground and harvested as needed during autumn and winter, although there’s a risk of the roots becoming woody with age, especially if the plants flower and seed. If the leaves die down, there’s also a risk that they’ll be overlooked, so mark plantings. In areas with wet winters or poorly drained soil, harvest parsnips in autumn. Pull the plants up carefully from the ground to avoid damaging the root. To get a good shelf life from parsnips, remove the leaves after harvesting, cutting them close to the top of the root (take care as the leaves can cause allergies in some people). Store in a cool, airy room or well wrapped in the crisper section of the fridge. They can also be preserved by bottling or freezing. Their high sugar content means they can also be used to make wine. And for those who don’t like parsnips, they are also grown as feed for animals such as pigs. In Italy they are prized as feed for pigs raised for Parma ham. Did you know? Centuries ago, parsnips were enjoyed as a sweetener in cooking. Parsnip leaves resemble parsley, a member of the same family Good Organic Gardening | 77
COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Parsnip Star ingredient: Parsnip Parma Ham & Pea Salad with Parsnip Chips Serves 2 as a lunch main, 4 as a side Ingredients • Coconut oil • 2 parsnips, peeled into strips with a Y-shaped peeler • 100g rocket • 50g semi-dried tomatoes • 500g fresh or frozen peas • 6 slices aged Parma ham • 100g soft Persian goat’s cheese • Handful pistachios, to garnish Method 1. In a shallow frypan, add coconut oil to measure 6cm. Use a thermometer to heat oil to 350°C or, if using a deep fryer, fill with coconut oil to required level and heat to 350°C. 2. Add parsnip strips and fry, turning occasionally until golden brown and crisp, about 2 mins. Using a spider or slotted spoon, transfer parsnip chips to paper towel and drain. Set aside. 3. Combine rocket, semi-dried tomatoes and peas with a little oil from the tomatoes. 4. Transfer to serving platter and arrange Parma ham on top. Arrange goat’s cheese and pistachios in and around ham and garnish with parsnip chips. 78 | Good Organic Gardening
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Parsnip | GROWING<br />
to grow through the dry season. Allow around 18–20<br />
weeks from planting to harvest.<br />
Parsnips grow best in light, deep soils that allow<br />
the roots to penetrate easily. A mature parsnip can<br />
form a 30cm-long root, so prepare the soil to at least<br />
this depth before planting.<br />
As with carrots, avoid digging in fresh organic<br />
matter before sowing seed — there’s a link between<br />
excess organic matter in the soil and forking of the<br />
root. A good option is to plant parsnips in soil that<br />
was well fertilised for a previous crop, such as a leafy<br />
vegetable, to make use of the residual nutrients.<br />
Alternatively, thoroughly dig in organic fertiliser other<br />
than manure before planting.<br />
To give seeds the highest chance of germination,<br />
sow them directly into damp prepared soil, planting<br />
in rows. Parsnips don’t transplant well, so are not<br />
usually available as seedlings.<br />
Sow the seed in shallow rows around 6–10mm<br />
deep, then lightly cover the seed with fine soil or a<br />
layer of vermiculite. A fine layer of mulch over the<br />
soil surface can also help encourage germination by<br />
ensuring the soil stays damp. It can take 3–4 weeks<br />
for seeds to germinate, so patience is also required.<br />
Try to space the seeds 10cm apart to allow room<br />
for the plants to reach their mature size but, if<br />
necessary, thin seedlings when they reach 5cm high.<br />
Growing parsnips<br />
Although poor germination can make parsnips a<br />
challenge to grow, once they are growing they tend to be<br />
free of pest and disease problems but do need protection<br />
from snails and slugs.<br />
Keep the soil moist and free of weeds as the seeds<br />
germinate and grow. Once they are growing, apply<br />
a side dressing of organic fertiliser or liquidfeed<br />
the growing plants. Keep them well<br />
watered to avoid any stress that may<br />
send the parsnip plants into premature<br />
flower formation.<br />
Left unharvested, parsnips, which are<br />
biennial plants, produce flower stems<br />
in their second year, as does another of<br />
parsnip’s close relatives, parsley. Parsnip<br />
flowers are yellow, arranged in umbels<br />
and followed by broad, flat seeds that<br />
should be sown soon after they ripen. Parsnip<br />
has broad, flat leaves a little like those of parsley<br />
or coriander.<br />
Harvest, storage & preserving<br />
As well as looking good in a mix of roast vegies,<br />
parsnips are highly nutritious, supplying potassium<br />
along with vitamin C and dietary fibre. They are<br />
naturally sweet but the sweetest parsnips are grown<br />
Parsnip label<br />
Common name: Parsnip<br />
Botanical name: Pastinaca sativa<br />
Family: Apiaceae (carrot family)<br />
Aspect & soil: Sun; deep, well-drained soil<br />
Best climate: All<br />
Habit: Biennial grown as annual root vegetable<br />
Propagation: Seed<br />
Difficulty: Moderate<br />
in cooler climates. They benefit from a winter chill<br />
before harvest, which increases their sweetness by<br />
converting starches in the root to sugars.<br />
Parsnip roots can be left in the ground and<br />
harvested as needed during autumn and winter,<br />
although there’s a risk of the roots becoming woody<br />
with age, especially if the plants flower and seed.<br />
If the leaves die down, there’s also a risk that they’ll<br />
be overlooked, so mark plantings. In areas with<br />
wet winters or poorly drained soil, harvest parsnips<br />
in autumn.<br />
Pull the plants up carefully from the ground to<br />
avoid damaging the root. To get a good shelf life from<br />
parsnips, remove the leaves after harvesting, cutting<br />
them close to the top of the root (take care as the<br />
leaves can cause allergies in some people).<br />
Store in a cool, airy room or well wrapped in<br />
the crisper section of the fridge. They can also be<br />
preserved by bottling or freezing. Their high sugar<br />
content means they can also be used to make wine.<br />
And for those who don’t like parsnips, they<br />
are also grown as feed for animals<br />
such as pigs. In Italy they are prized<br />
as feed for pigs raised for<br />
Parma ham.<br />
Did you know?<br />
Centuries ago, parsnips<br />
were enjoyed as a<br />
sweetener in cooking.<br />
Parsnip leaves resemble parsley,<br />
a member of the same family<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 77