1. Good Organic Gardening - January-February 2016
1. Good Organic Gardening - January-February 2016
1. Good Organic Gardening - January-February 2016
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grow naturally, eat fresh, live sustainably<br />
JANUARY/FEBRUARY<br />
JENNIFER<br />
STACKHOUSE<br />
GARDENING<br />
CHALLENGE<br />
GROWING<br />
TRUFFLES<br />
CLEVER CROPS<br />
DRAGON FRUIT<br />
& MOUSE MELON<br />
+ WHAT NEEDS DOING<br />
IN YOUR PATCH<br />
GARDEN TO TABLE<br />
BEETROOT | PASSIONFRUIT<br />
PARSNIP | SWEET CORN<br />
MELISSA KING<br />
HEIRLOOM STRAWBERRIES<br />
LETTUCE | RADISHES<br />
+ WHAT’S HOT<br />
THIS SEASON<br />
HOW TO<br />
Brew<br />
BIM<br />
(beneficial indigenous<br />
micro-organisms)<br />
for your soil<br />
Vol. 6 No. 5<br />
JAN/FEB <strong>2016</strong><br />
AUS $7.95*<br />
NZ $7.90<br />
(Both incl. GST)<br />
PLUS<br />
• NETTLE | BASIL<br />
• GROUND CONTROL: DIPEL<br />
• MORE IDEAS FOR LITTLE GARDENERS<br />
CLAIRE BICKLE<br />
FIRST AID FOR<br />
FUNGAL FOES<br />
MEGG MILLER<br />
BANTAM DUCKS —<br />
UNBELIEVABLY CUTE!
CONTENTS<br />
14<br />
Contents<br />
72<br />
6 Managing Editor’s Note<br />
Mid-summer and it’s hot hot<br />
hot in the garden!<br />
8 The Grapevine<br />
Aussie summers mean invasion<br />
of the insects — can we learn<br />
to live with them, wonders<br />
Jo Immig<br />
10 What’s Hot<br />
Horticulturist Melissa King<br />
profiles some lovely specimens<br />
to spice up your garden<br />
12 & 14 Clever Crops<br />
Jennifer Stackhouse looks at two<br />
clever crops: cute little mouse<br />
melon and exotic dragon fruit<br />
26<br />
16 Plant Profile<br />
How many kinds of basil are<br />
there? Lots. Some are purple and<br />
some are even perennials<br />
20 Power Plant<br />
Stinging nettle is highly<br />
nutritious, quite delicious and as<br />
easy to grow as a weed<br />
22 Family Heirloom<br />
Who can resist sweet, fragrant<br />
heirloom strawberries, from white<br />
to yellow to bright crimson<br />
26 <strong>Gardening</strong> Folk<br />
A passion for herb growing and a<br />
desire for self-sufficiency are the<br />
driving forces behind the Nankas’<br />
productive garden and business<br />
30 <strong>Gardening</strong> Folk<br />
Meet Danny, a man who knows<br />
the importance of bees to our<br />
lives and values them so much<br />
he has made his garden a haven<br />
for them<br />
34 <strong>Gardening</strong> Folk<br />
Growing up in crowded Beirut,<br />
Farouk Khaled dreamed of<br />
owning enough land to grow<br />
whatever he wanted. In Australia,<br />
the dream came true<br />
38 Time to Plant<br />
A couple of salad stars are<br />
perfect to plant — or keep<br />
planting — right now: lettuce<br />
and radish<br />
4 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
CONTENTS<br />
8<br />
22<br />
40 Things to Do<br />
Heat and humidity in many<br />
climate zones mean keeping<br />
a watchful eye for problems —<br />
while harvesting heaps<br />
44 Short Shoots<br />
Innovative and imaginative<br />
ideas for your garden from our<br />
young organic gardener<br />
46 Weekend <strong>Gardening</strong><br />
Claire Bickle continues with<br />
gardening activities for the<br />
kids, including a cute growing<br />
project that even apartment<br />
dwellers can take on<br />
50 <strong>Gardening</strong> Challenge<br />
What’s the kerfuffle over<br />
truffles? Can you grow them<br />
at home? Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
has some answers<br />
54 Plant Health<br />
Claire Bickle continues her<br />
round-up of warm-weather<br />
nuisances, this time diseases<br />
rather than creepy-crawlies<br />
58 Safer Solutions<br />
Dipel is an organically approved<br />
solution to a bad caterpillar<br />
problem. Angie Thomas explains<br />
what it is and how it works<br />
62 The Shed<br />
Just as beneficial microorganisms<br />
keep our bodies<br />
healthy, soil has its microflora,<br />
too, which you can make more<br />
of to give your soil a boost<br />
66 Feathered Friends<br />
According to Megg Miller, there<br />
are few cuter pets than little<br />
bantam ducks — and you get<br />
eggs from them<br />
70 Garden to Table<br />
Four seasonal edibles — how to<br />
grow, harvest, store and preserve<br />
— with healthy, delicious recipes<br />
from chef Joanna Rushton<br />
89 What’s Hot From<br />
Our Advertisers<br />
Our Pick of the Crop of products<br />
and services for gardeners and<br />
cooks, plus a few books<br />
94 What’s On<br />
A selection of events to interest<br />
gardeners and foodies<br />
78<br />
50<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 5
grow naturally, eat fresh, live sustainably<br />
Editor Kerry Boyne<br />
Designer Jess Middleton<br />
Contributors Claire Bickle, Jana Holmer,<br />
Jo Immig, Melissa King, Megg Miller,<br />
Joanna Rushton, Chris Stafford,<br />
Erina Starkey, Jennifer Stackhouse,<br />
Sandra Tuszynska<br />
Food Photography<br />
Kerry Boyne<br />
Advertising Manager Miriam Keen<br />
Ph: 02 9887 0604 | Fax: 02 9878 5553<br />
Mob: 0414 969 693<br />
Email: mkeen@universalmagazines.com.au<br />
Advertising Production Co-ordinator<br />
Hannah Felton<br />
Cover Photo Getty Images<br />
Chairman/CEO Prema Perera<br />
Publisher Janice Williams<br />
Chief Financial Officer Vicky Mahadeva<br />
Associate Publisher Karen Day<br />
Associate Publisher Emma Perera<br />
Circulation Director Mark Darton<br />
Creative Director Kate Podger<br />
Editorial & Production Manager<br />
Anastasia Casey<br />
Production Executive<br />
Renu Bhatt<br />
Prepress Manager Ivan Fitz-Gerald<br />
Marketing & Acquisitions Manager<br />
Chelsea Peters<br />
Subscription enquiries: 1300 303 414<br />
Circulation enquiries to our Sydney head office: (02) 9805 0399<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> Vol. 6 No. 5 is published by Universal Magazines,<br />
Unit 5, 6–8 Byfield Street, North Ryde NSW 2113. Phone: (02)<br />
9805 0399, Fax: (02) 9805 0714. Melbourne office: Suite 4, Level 1,<br />
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ISSN 1837-9206<br />
Copyright © Universal Magazines MMXV<br />
ACN 003 026 944<br />
universalmagazines.com.au<br />
Welcome<br />
to the issue<br />
As we are putting this issue together,<br />
it’s not even summer yet and we’re<br />
having 37-degree days — in spring!<br />
By the time you are reading this mag,<br />
it has no doubt been even hotter. Do you have<br />
insect problems — in the garden and your<br />
living spaces? Read Jo Immig’s column to get a<br />
different outlook on all the tiny, helpful creatures<br />
that inhabit out world.<br />
Of course, there is another side to the story.<br />
Though we may be willing to share our crops<br />
with them — who cares about a few holes here<br />
and there? — there are times when they are so<br />
numerous they want to devour the lot and leave<br />
us nothing; that’s when we sometimes decide to<br />
control them in a very targeted way. Caterpillars,<br />
for example. Angie Thomas discusses Bacillus<br />
thuringiensis, also known as Bt or Dipel, and<br />
how it can be used to keep their numbers to<br />
a manageable level.<br />
As well as helpful (and less helpful) insects,<br />
there are many many beneficial bacteria in our<br />
gardens, as there are in our bodies; and just as<br />
you can supplement with doses of probiotics<br />
when your levels are down, it’s possible to<br />
also boost the numbers of indigenous microorganisms<br />
in your soil. Sandra Tuszynska<br />
shows step by step how to make a batch of BIM<br />
(beneficial indigenous micro-organisms).<br />
Still in the realm of the tiny, Megg Miller<br />
introduces us to gorgeous little bantam ducks.<br />
I must confess I was unaware of these lovely<br />
little feathered friends, even though I love<br />
bantam chickens. Check them out — they’re as<br />
cute as a baby’s bath duckie.<br />
Of course, it’s still holidays and therefore,<br />
says Claire Bickle, a great time to get the kids<br />
out in the garden learning where their food<br />
comes from, how to produce it themselves and<br />
all about the other co-residents, from tiny lady<br />
beetles to beautiful butterflies. There’s also<br />
a fun growing project that any child can do,<br />
even those who live in apartments. Claire also<br />
continues her series on dealing with problems in<br />
the patch, this issue focusing on diseases rather<br />
than creepy crawlies and flying foes.<br />
Jennifer Stackhouse shows that even crops<br />
can be cute, such as little mouse melon (OK,<br />
there’s an abundance of cuteness this issue).<br />
They can be exotic as well: hot-pink dragon fruit<br />
with their night-blooming flowers. Then there<br />
are the everyday: passionfruit, beetroot, parsnip<br />
and sweet corn from Jennifer and lettuce and<br />
radishes from Melissa King. Melissa also covers<br />
alpine strawberries, which are smaller than<br />
modern varieties but worth growing for their<br />
abundant harvest and fragrant flavour.<br />
Have you noticed truffle-inoculated trees<br />
for sale in one of the big hardware chains and<br />
wondered if you should give it a go? In fact,<br />
are truffles something the home gardener can<br />
tackle? Jennifer has some answers for those<br />
who love a big challenge. And just think how big<br />
the rewards could be if you were successful.<br />
Up front, Melissa also introduces some<br />
plants worth considering for your garden,<br />
both decorative and edible, and as usual down<br />
the back Jo Rushton, aka the <strong>Organic</strong> Chef,<br />
shows how to turn your harvest into simple but<br />
delicious dishes, including a temptingly rich<br />
chocolate cake made with beetroot — believe it!<br />
Wishing you a relaxing summer, a happy New<br />
Year and an abundant harvest,<br />
Kerry<br />
We are a member of<br />
See us on facebook at www.facebook.com/<strong>Good</strong><strong>Organic</strong><strong>Gardening</strong>Magazine<br />
or contact us via email : infoGOG@universalmagazines.com.au
Veggies picked ripe from your own<br />
garden taste better and are more<br />
nutritious. The Scotts Pure <strong>Organic</strong><br />
range of soils and plant foods are<br />
certified organic and have no added<br />
chemicals. They feed for three<br />
months, so your plants get all the<br />
essential nutrients they need.<br />
For expert gardening advice call 1800 804 219 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm) or visit scottspureorganic.com.au
THE GRAPEVINE | News<br />
the grapevine<br />
Environmental news and updates compiled by Jo Immig<br />
The Richmond<br />
birdwing butterfly<br />
Living with insects<br />
Insects, on the whole, get a bad rap. Sure,<br />
they can ruin a picnic and a good night’s<br />
sleep, but does that warrant an all-out<br />
war on bugs?<br />
Ever since pesticides were redeployed<br />
after World War II to kill insects instead<br />
of people, pesticide use has skyrocketed<br />
with no apparent end in sight. Dousing the<br />
planet in pesticides is having a significant<br />
impact on insect numbers and diversity.<br />
It’s also messing with our health as a<br />
growing number of pesticide residues<br />
are being detected in our bodies and the<br />
environment, causing impacts ranging<br />
from the feminism of frogs to cancers.<br />
Insects are the most diverse organisms<br />
on Earth, representing three-quarters of<br />
the animal kingdom — an evolutionary<br />
feat to be admired. Insect diversity is<br />
greatest in tropical regions, which are<br />
being destroyed at a rapid rate across<br />
the globe.<br />
Around 1 million of an estimated 2–6<br />
million insect species have been classified.<br />
Despite their prolific numbers, it’s thought<br />
that around 52 per cent of insect species<br />
are at risk of extinction, according to<br />
Endangered Species International. Many<br />
species have probably become extinct<br />
without ever being observed or recorded.<br />
A few years ago, I went to a talk given<br />
by David Suzuki in my hometown of<br />
Bangalow, NSW. It was a hot summer’s<br />
night and the windows and doors of the<br />
community hall were left open for the<br />
breeze. “Where are all the insects?”<br />
Suzuki asked. Given the subtropical<br />
climate, the room should have been<br />
teeming with them and yet there were<br />
few and it was strangely silent outside.<br />
The region where I live was stripped of<br />
99 per cent of its rainforest cover during<br />
the 19th century as the timber cutters<br />
and dairy industry took over, and many<br />
species died off. There’s a concerted effort<br />
to bring some insects back from the brink,<br />
including the Richmond birdwing butterfly<br />
(Ornithoptera richmondia), once abundant<br />
in the area. I’ve only had the pleasure of<br />
seeing one in our garden because we<br />
planted the specific vine it feeds on. It was<br />
just magnificent with its giant iridescent<br />
green and black wings and a splash of red<br />
on its thorax.<br />
Like other animals, insects occupy<br />
While most of us know the<br />
plight of the European<br />
honeybee, an essential<br />
pollinating insect, not so<br />
many are aware of the<br />
numerous other species<br />
of pollinating insects that<br />
are also at risk or are<br />
already extinct.<br />
restricted small ranges, making their<br />
populations highly vulnerable to humaninduced<br />
extinctions as habitats are<br />
disturbed and destroyed.<br />
We gardeners know how dependent<br />
we are on some insects to pollinate<br />
plants that produce the food we eat and<br />
that they’re a fundamental part of the<br />
functioning ecosystem all species depend<br />
on. While most of us know the plight of<br />
the European honeybee, an essential<br />
pollinating insect, not so many are<br />
aware of the numerous other species of<br />
pollinating insects that are also at risk<br />
or already extinct.<br />
The Australian pesticide regulator, the<br />
APVMA, does not properly assess the<br />
impact of pesticides on pollinating insects such<br />
as bees when it registers pesticide products.<br />
For the sake of preventing the damage caused<br />
by a few insects to crops, all other insects<br />
are killed, many of them beneficial.<br />
It’s difficult to find accurate figures for<br />
the volume of pesticides used globally<br />
each year, but the overall trend indicates<br />
pesticide use is on the increase. The<br />
introduction of genetically engineered<br />
crops, which were initially touted as a<br />
way to reduce pesticides, has in fact<br />
significantly contributed to the increase.<br />
Only aggregated sales figures for<br />
pesticides are available in Australia. There<br />
are no usage data, so we have no idea<br />
what volume of pesticides is applied to<br />
the Australian environment each year.<br />
Based on registrations of pesticide<br />
products, however, we do know that up to<br />
30 per cent of all pesticide products are<br />
registered for non-agricultural purposes,<br />
including urban pest control and house<br />
and garden products.<br />
By making better choices you can help<br />
insects survive and thrive:<br />
Plant native trees, shrubs and flowers<br />
for your region, to create habitat for<br />
local insects.<br />
Avoid hybrids and “double bloom”<br />
varieties because insects often can’t<br />
get to the nectar as their mouthparts<br />
are not adapted to the task.<br />
Avoid using outdoor “bug zappers”<br />
because they indiscriminately kill all<br />
insects and usually fail to attract the<br />
insects, such as mosquitoes, that<br />
people are hoping to avoid.<br />
Use fly screens on windows and<br />
doors and draft excluders to minimise<br />
unwanted insects indoors.<br />
Leave areas of wildness and use<br />
natural ground covers in your garden<br />
to encourage insect diversity.<br />
Use only open-pollinated, certified<br />
organic seeds and other inputs in<br />
your garden.<br />
Check when purchasing potted plants<br />
as many potting mixes have been<br />
treated with systemic pesticides that<br />
can be transferred to your garden.<br />
Avoid the use of pesticides in your<br />
garden, inside your home or on your<br />
body. There are safer, non-chemical<br />
ways to deal with most situations.<br />
Insects are an integral part of the web<br />
of life on this planet. Destroy a few strands<br />
and the entire web could unravel.<br />
Shutterstock<br />
8 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
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THE SEASONAL GARDEN | With Melissa King<br />
WHAT’S HOT RIGHT NOW<br />
Presenting some of the latest and greatest plants that will make<br />
excellent additions to your garden at this time of year<br />
‘M<br />
other and<br />
Child’ Rose<br />
The plant: ‘Mother and Child’ is the<br />
new sister rose to the beautiful ‘Mother<br />
and Daughter’ rose, following in the<br />
same tradition of raising funds for Motor<br />
Neurone Disease Research. This newest<br />
addition to the family continues the<br />
celebration of the unique bond between<br />
mother and child. It’s a stunning rose<br />
that displays clusters of highly scented<br />
lavender-pink flowers. With up to 10<br />
blooms per stem, it flowers non-stop<br />
from spring right through to autumn.<br />
Growing: Roses like good drainage<br />
and plenty of sunshine. Prepare the soil<br />
well before planting with compost and<br />
organic matter. Feed throughout the<br />
growing season to promote a longlasting<br />
display of colourful blooms.<br />
Design: ‘Mother and Child’ is a hybrid<br />
tea rose with a delightful fragrance, so<br />
make a feature of it in garden beds or<br />
pots where you and your family can<br />
really appreciate the long-flowering<br />
display and wonderful scent.<br />
arigold ‘French<br />
MSunset’<br />
The plant: Now here’s a marigold with a difference.<br />
‘French Sunset’ is a French-style marigold with fiery red<br />
blooms that fade to bronze and deep gold, creating a<br />
blaze of colour in the garden.<br />
Growing: Grow ‘French Sunset’ in a sunny spot in fertile,<br />
well-drained soil. Liquid-feed regularly and remove spent<br />
blooms to prolong your flowering display.<br />
Design: Make a feature of the flaming red flowers in<br />
decorative pots, plant them en masse for a fiery display or<br />
use them to add a splash of vibrant colour to the kitchen<br />
or flower garden.<br />
L‘Blonde oropetalum<br />
’n’<br />
Gorgeous’<br />
The plant: The aptly named ‘Blonde ’n’<br />
Gorgeous’ is just that, with cascading green<br />
foliage and caramel-blonde new growth. In<br />
spring and autumn the plant is laden with<br />
beautiful tasselled white flowers. It grows<br />
to about <strong>1.</strong>5m tall and 2m wide. A plant that<br />
looks good in every season.<br />
Growing: Loropetalum ‘Blonde ’n’ Gorgeous’<br />
grows best in a sunny or partly shaded<br />
position in well-drained soil. It doesn’t<br />
require any pruning unless you want to<br />
shape it and has a low demand for water<br />
once established. Give it a boost with a<br />
slow-release fertiliser after flowering.<br />
Design: Plant it en masse in garden beds<br />
to contrast with burgundy-foliage<br />
plants or make a feature of it in big<br />
Oriental-style pots.<br />
10 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
With Melissa King | THE SEASONAL GARDEN<br />
omato ‘Rapunzel Long<br />
TTrusses’<br />
The plant: A new variety of tomato that really captures the<br />
imagination, with long Rapunzel-like trusses of sweet, glossy red<br />
cherry tomatoes on a <strong>1.</strong>8–2.4m tall plant.<br />
Growing: ‘Rapunzel Long Trusses’ grows best in a sunny, welldrained<br />
spot. Prepare the area first with plenty of organic matter<br />
but don’t overdo the manure or you’ll get lots of leafy growth at the<br />
expense of flowers and fruit. If your soil is quite acidic, incorporate<br />
a bit of lime into the soil before planting.<br />
Design: Tomatoes like room to grow, so make sure you adhere to<br />
the spacing recommended on the back of the seedling tag and use<br />
a good strong stake at planting time to avoid later damage.<br />
Wobble-Tee<br />
Waters a large area up to 15m<br />
diameter, but can be adjusted at<br />
your tap to water smaller areas.<br />
Applies water slowly and evenly<br />
with a consistent droplet size<br />
at pressures from 15 to 40psi.<br />
Will also operate effectively<br />
from as low as 5psi.<br />
Will operate from a town<br />
water supply, pressure pump,<br />
overhead water tank, gravity<br />
fed system, recycled water,<br />
envirocycle system, effluent<br />
re-use, dam, bore or grey water.<br />
No misting on low-medium<br />
pressures.<br />
Average flow rate of 10 LPM.<br />
<br />
Add-On-Ability allows you<br />
to operate more than one<br />
sprinkler from the same tap.<br />
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Smart Approved WaterMark<br />
2012 Product of the Year<br />
PRESSURE P.S.I 5 10 15 20 25 30 40<br />
APPROX DIAMETER<br />
IN METRES<br />
6.2 12 13.8 14.5 14.8 15 16<br />
USAGE L.P.M 4.1 6 7.3 9.1 10 10.7 13<br />
asabi Salad (Diplotaxis<br />
Werucoides)<br />
The plant: This exotic leafy green will spice up your garden and your<br />
taste-buds. Bite into the soft green foliage for a strong hit of wasabi<br />
flavour. Harvest it leaf by leaf as you need it to give hot or cold salads<br />
a real flavour kick or as a complement to Asian-inspired dishes.<br />
Growing: Wasabi Salad enjoys full sun but, if you’re growing it<br />
through the warmer months, give it dappled light. Plant seedlings<br />
25–30cm apart in rich, well-drained soil.<br />
Design: Grow Wasabi Salad greens in pots close to the house for<br />
easy picking or plant it in groups or rows in the salad garden to<br />
contrast with dark-leafed lettuces or rainbow-coloured silverbeet.<br />
Available from<br />
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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 11
CLEVER CROP | Mouse melon<br />
Cucumber’s<br />
cool cousin<br />
Is the mouse melon a cucumber or is it a<br />
melon? We could call it a cucamelon<br />
Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
If I were to give a vegetable an award for<br />
cuteness, the mouse melon would win hands<br />
down. It looks like a watermelon for the little<br />
folk. The small fruit, which are produced<br />
prolifically, is light green with darker green<br />
stripes, and about 3cm long. Its cuteness makes<br />
it highly appealing to children and could entice<br />
vegetable-phobic kids to eat their greens.<br />
Although known as a melon, it is better<br />
described as a tiny cucumber. The fruit is<br />
crunchy and can be eaten skin and all. It has<br />
a cucumber-like taste with a slight sour kick<br />
from the skin. It’s eaten raw like a cucumber,<br />
diced as a salsa or sliced and added to<br />
a stirfry. I’ve even seen it suggested as<br />
a substitute for an olive in a martini!<br />
Like many in the cucurbit family, this vine<br />
produces male and female flowers on the<br />
same vine. The flowers are tiny and yellow. The<br />
female flowers form fruit after receiving pollen<br />
from the flowers on the same or another plant.<br />
These plants come from Mexico (where they<br />
are called sandita) and Central America where<br />
Its cuteness makes it<br />
highly appealing to<br />
children and could<br />
entice vegetable-phobic<br />
kids to eat their greens.<br />
Mouse melon Label<br />
Common names: Mouse melon,<br />
cucamelon, Mexican sour cucumber<br />
Botanical name: Melothria scabra<br />
Family: Cucurbitaceae (cucumber<br />
family)<br />
Requires: Full sun, well-drained soil<br />
Dislikes: Frost, cold conditions<br />
Suitable for: Trellis, fence, pergola<br />
Habit: Annual or perennial vine<br />
Needs: Support<br />
Propagation: Seed<br />
Difficulty: Easy<br />
they have long been in cultivation. Despite their<br />
charms and the fact that they are quite easy to<br />
grow, they are still rare in our gardens.<br />
Growing tips<br />
Mouse melon needs a long warm period to grow,<br />
flower and form fruit. In cool and temperate<br />
areas, plant seed in spring as you would plant<br />
cucumbers and grow the plants through<br />
summer for harvesting in late summer and<br />
autumn. In warmer zones mouse melon can be<br />
planted and harvested year round.<br />
These are vigorous plants that need<br />
support. Vines can reach 3m or more high<br />
when encouraged onto a wire fence, arbour<br />
or tepee. They are ideal for a sunny balcony<br />
or courtyard as they are productive in a large<br />
container and grown on a wire frame.<br />
Finding seed<br />
Mouse melon is available from online<br />
seed specialists but may be listed under<br />
any one of its many names. If you can’t<br />
find it under mouse melon, try cucamelon<br />
or Mexican sour cucumber.<br />
Shutterstock<br />
12 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
CLEVER CROP | Dragon fruit<br />
Pretty in pink<br />
If the mouse melon gets our award for<br />
cuteness, dragon fruit earns accolades for<br />
its brilliant colour<br />
Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
Ripe dragon fruit are as spectacular as<br />
the mouse melon (page 14) is cute: hot<br />
pink with lime-green scales. When cut<br />
open, the contrast between the pink<br />
outer skin and white flesh peppered with tiny<br />
black seeds is striking.<br />
Because of this eye-catching appearance,<br />
they are popular in restaurants and with<br />
caterers. These fruits are often first discovered<br />
on the fruit platter at a breakfast buffet in a hotel<br />
while holidaying in Asia, where they are widely<br />
grown and sold at markets and on juice stands.<br />
They are also sold in Australia at<br />
greengrocers and produce markets, and<br />
sometimes may even be encountered in the<br />
supermarket, but are treated as a curiosity.<br />
While the pink form with white flesh is the<br />
most dramatic variety, there are also species<br />
with red, yellow or green fruit. The flavour of<br />
dragon fruit is rather bland, though, especially<br />
compared with its over-the-top appearance.<br />
Growing tips<br />
If you are intrigued by the very idea of an<br />
edible cactus, let alone such a vibrantly<br />
coloured one, the next step may be to try<br />
to grow these plants in the garden or in<br />
large containers. They are best in a warm<br />
Dragon fruit are nightflowering<br />
cacti. They<br />
bloom overnight and<br />
resemble discarded<br />
balloons by the morning.<br />
temperate, subtropical or tropical climate.<br />
They can be grown from seed but are most<br />
easily propagated from a cutting from another<br />
plant. Provide a support for the cactus (it’s a<br />
climber) and ensure it’s planted in well-drained<br />
soil in a spot that’s sheltered from frost and<br />
cold and from full sun. Then be patient. Plants<br />
may grow vigorously but take time to flower<br />
and form fruit. Once flowering begins, it can<br />
occur throughout the year. Fruit forms best<br />
in humid conditions.<br />
Dragon fruit are night-flowering cacti: they<br />
bloom overnight and resemble discarded<br />
balloons by the morning. Nocturnal animals such<br />
as bats or night-flying insects such as moths<br />
are needed to pollinate the flowers. While they<br />
can be self-fertile, crops are more reliable<br />
where there’s more than one plant growing.<br />
Prune flowered stems to encourage new<br />
growth and more flowering.<br />
Dragon<br />
fruit Label<br />
Common name: Dragon fruit, pitahaya<br />
Botanical name: Hylocereus undatus<br />
Family: Cactaceae (cactus family)<br />
Requires: Full sun, well-drained soil,<br />
regular fertiliser<br />
Dislikes: Frost, prolonged cold<br />
conditions<br />
Suitable for: Trellis, fence, wall, post<br />
Habit: Climbing cactus<br />
Needs: May need hand pollination<br />
Propagation: Cutting (leaf)<br />
Difficulty: Easy<br />
Another<br />
edible cactus<br />
Dragon fruit isn’t the only edible cactus.<br />
Prickly pear (a weed in Australia)<br />
produces edible fruit and pads (leaves).<br />
This is a spiky customer, so harvest and<br />
eat with caution!<br />
Shutterstock<br />
14 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
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PLANT PROFILE | Basil<br />
16 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Basil | PLANT PROFILE<br />
All hail King<br />
Basil<br />
The king of herbs is the stuff of legend as well as<br />
the magic ingredient in everything from pasta to<br />
curries and stirfries<br />
Shutterstock, Choking Sun CC<br />
Words Chris Stafford<br />
If ever a plant were poised between<br />
heaven and hell, it would be Ocimum<br />
basilicum, otherwise known as basil.<br />
In India and Haiti, the herb is used to<br />
ward off evil. In parts of Mexico, it supposedly<br />
attracts good fortune. Some ancients<br />
believed it opened the gates of paradise for<br />
the dying, while others saw it as a symbol of<br />
the Devil. The Romans were convinced that if<br />
you chopped it up and put it under a rock,<br />
a scorpion would be born.<br />
A royal plant or a symbol of poverty, a<br />
poison or a panacea — whatever the legend,<br />
basil is believed to be native to India, where<br />
it’s considered sacred and has been used<br />
ceremonially and medicinally for 5000 years.<br />
In fact, in courts of law under British rule,<br />
Hindus were allowed to swear on holy basil<br />
(O. tenuiflorum) instead of the Bible.<br />
The word we use for the herb almost<br />
certainly comes from the Greek basileus,<br />
meaning “king”. Related words are basilica<br />
(originally a royal doorway; later, a church)<br />
and basilisk, a mythical evil serpent that had<br />
a crown-shaped mark on its head. The sacred<br />
Thai basil<br />
and the profane, again. Even today, basil is<br />
known as the king of herbs — in French,<br />
l’herbe royale. Mind you, the French once<br />
used the expression semer le basilic (“to sow<br />
basil”) to denote ranting and raving. This<br />
could have its origins in the ancient Roman<br />
belief that the herb should be planted to the<br />
accompaniment of loud oaths.<br />
“There is no seed more prolific than that of<br />
ocimum,” wrote Pliny the Elder. “It is generally<br />
recommended to sow it with the utterance<br />
of curses and imprecations, the result being<br />
that it grows all the better for it.”<br />
Basil may be a sturdy plant, but this<br />
is probably not the planting method<br />
we’d recommend.<br />
Growing<br />
Basil, a member of the mint family<br />
(Lamiaceae), is a herbaceous plant,<br />
usually an annual, with a prolific growth<br />
of bright green leaves — sometimes purple<br />
— and a sweetly pungent, aniseed or clovelike<br />
fragrance.<br />
The herb is frost tender, so it grows best in<br />
summer and throughout the year in warmer<br />
The French once<br />
used the expression<br />
semer le basilic (“to<br />
sow basil”) to denote<br />
ranting and raving.<br />
This could have its<br />
origins in the ancient<br />
Roman belief that the<br />
herb should be planted<br />
to the accompaniment<br />
of loud oaths.<br />
parts of Australia, preferably in light, dry soil<br />
and full sun, or at least six hours of sunlight<br />
a day. It produces spikes of white, pink or<br />
mauve flowers that need to be pinched off so<br />
the leaves keep producing oils.<br />
The plant grows from 30–130cm tall and<br />
can be propagated via seed or cuttings.<br />
Some varieties<br />
Annuals<br />
‘Sweet Basil’ (O. basilicum) is the most<br />
familiar of basil’s 160-odd varieties. The<br />
perfect complement to tomatoes, it’s an<br />
essential in the cuisine of Italy, where it’s<br />
said that a dish without basil leaves is “like<br />
a beautiful woman without a soul”. There<br />
are several Italian varieties, but ‘Basilico<br />
Genovese’ is the large-leaved cultivar used<br />
for genoese pesto, the classic pasta sauce of<br />
basil, olive oil, garlic, pine nuts and cheese.<br />
There are also purple-leaved varieties such<br />
as ‘Purpureum’ and ‘Purple Ruffles’.<br />
‘Thai basil’ (O. basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is<br />
the variety used in Southeast Asian dishes<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 17
PLANT PROFILE | Basil<br />
Small-leaf Greek basil<br />
Holy basil<br />
cramps, migraines, anxiety and depression,<br />
which is not surprising given that it’s in<br />
the mint family.<br />
Basil contains chemicals that repel<br />
household pests and some experiments<br />
indicate it is toxic to mosquitoes. Rubbing<br />
some leaves on the skin is a useful,<br />
natural repellent to flies and mozzies.<br />
Planting tomatoes and basil together is<br />
said to deter whiteflies, aphids, beetles<br />
and other pests as well as improve the<br />
flavour of the tomatoes, but the evidence<br />
is anecdotal at best. Still, it can’t do any<br />
harm — and all you need for the perfect<br />
pasta sauce will be close at hand.<br />
‘Dark Opal’<br />
such as pho, the hearty Vietnamese beef or<br />
chicken soup, as well as in Malaysian and<br />
Indonesian curries. Also popular in Asia are<br />
minty lemon basil (O. × citriodorum) and holy<br />
basil or tulsi (O. sanctum or O. tenuiflorum),<br />
which is sacred to Hindus.<br />
‘Greek basil’ (O. obovatum) is a compact,<br />
fine-leaved but pungent miniature that can<br />
be grown in a pot and is often used dried.<br />
Perennials<br />
‘African Blue’, also known as camphor basil<br />
(O. kilimandscharicum), has a complex,<br />
peppery, camphor-like scent. A sterile hybrid,<br />
it’s one of the few perennial basils.<br />
Lime basil (O. americanum), also called<br />
hoary basil, spicy basil, limehairy basil and<br />
many other names, is a magnet for bees. With<br />
a spicier taste and stronger smell than sweet<br />
basil, it’s often used for medicinal purposes.<br />
Basil perennial (O. gratissimum) is a fastgrowing<br />
native of India, Sri Lanka, Java and<br />
tropical America and Africa. Its strong clove<br />
smell makes it an excellent insect repellent<br />
as well as an ideal addition to soups,<br />
curries and stirfries.<br />
Nutrition &<br />
medicinal properties<br />
Basil is rich in vitamins A, B 6 , C and K and<br />
minerals such as iron, manganese and<br />
magnesium. Recent studies have found<br />
it to possess antimicrobial, antiviral and<br />
antioxidant properties and it may be useful<br />
in cancer treatment.<br />
In folk medicine, basil, a mild stimulant, has<br />
been used (often in the form of tea) for the<br />
treatment of constipation, flatulence, stomach<br />
Holy basil<br />
As with all ancient plants, legends abound<br />
about the king of herbs. The story<br />
goes that Saint Helena, the mother of<br />
Constantine, was led to the site of the True<br />
Cross by the trail of basil that sprang up<br />
wherever the blood of Christ had fallen<br />
during his crucifixion. According to John’s<br />
gospel, the word basileus (Greek for “king”,<br />
as we know) appeared on the cross itself<br />
in the Greek part of the inscription that<br />
read “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews”.<br />
Lemon basil<br />
Genovese basil<br />
Basil any time<br />
What to do once your plants have<br />
bolted to seed and there are no more<br />
succulent leaves? Well, before that<br />
happens, you need to get some ready<br />
to freeze.<br />
Wash, pat dry and chop your basil<br />
leaves. Mix olive oil and leaves two to<br />
one. Spoon the mixture into ice-cube<br />
trays and freeze. Once frozen, the cubes<br />
can be stored in an airtight container or<br />
plastic bag for up to a year.<br />
Clove basil, also African basil<br />
Sweet basil<br />
Shutterstock, Kembengraps CC, Swallow Tail Seeds CC<br />
18 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
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A plant with attitude<br />
Stinging nettle / Urtica spp.<br />
Why would you grow something with “sting” in its<br />
name? Because it has a multitude of health benefits,<br />
tastes good and grows like a weed<br />
Words Kerry Boyne<br />
There’s hardly a weed that hasn’t been<br />
used as food by someone, somewhere.<br />
Fennel, which grows in wild profusion<br />
all over Sicily, its bright yellow flowers<br />
a harbinger of spring, is central to Sicilian cuisine.<br />
The Cretans use everything from endives and<br />
beet leaves to wild rocket and dandelion greens<br />
in their cooking. Other weeds commonly used as<br />
food include wild celery, watercress, purslane and<br />
borage. And then there’s nettle.<br />
Familiarly known as stinging nettle — the<br />
fluid in the barb-like hairs on its leaves and stem<br />
can inflict a temporary sting — nettle occurs in<br />
Australia as native scrub nettle (Urtica incisa)<br />
and in introduced European varieties U. dioica<br />
(large leaf) and U. urens (small leaf).<br />
The sting is intense but short-lived and can<br />
be relieved by the application of the juice of the<br />
plant itself, though that may involve more stings.<br />
Calamine lotion or even urine can help. The<br />
stinging hairs, or trichomes, are neutralised by<br />
cooking or drying.<br />
Like any self-respecting weed, nettle will<br />
quickly colonise a fertile area such as a cow<br />
paddock and its presence is a sure indication of<br />
good soil. Livestock won’t eat this nutritious crop,<br />
however, probably because of the sting. They<br />
don’t know what they’re missing.<br />
Nettle attracts moths and butterflies, which<br />
feed on it during the larval stage, and is said to<br />
repel flies as well as have a beneficial effect on<br />
other plants such as fruiting trees.<br />
In northern Europe, nettle — like flax and<br />
hemp — was once widely used as a thread to<br />
make everything from clothes to sails and can<br />
even produce green and yellow dyes. Due to a<br />
cotton shortage, it was used to make uniforms<br />
for the German army during the Great War; more<br />
recently, in some European countries, it’s starting<br />
to make a comeback as a textile.<br />
Culinary uses<br />
Nettle is high in vitamins A, C, D and potassium,<br />
manganese and calcium, with more iron than<br />
spinach, to which it has a similar taste. It can<br />
be used in pesto, soups and purees, added to<br />
polenta and smoothies, decocted as a tea or<br />
cordial and, in parts of rural Britain, even brewed<br />
as beer.<br />
The plant is also used in some cheeses,<br />
such as Gouda and Cornish Yarg, as part of<br />
the filling (along with other greens) in Albanian<br />
börek and in some northern Indian, Kashmiri<br />
and Nepalese dishes.<br />
It’s best to use the young leaves before the<br />
plant flowers and sets seed. By then the leaves<br />
may develop tiny gritty calcium carbonate<br />
particles called cystoliths, which can irritate the<br />
uninary tract and even damage the kidneys.<br />
Medicinal uses<br />
Nettle’s history as a folk medicine is long and<br />
diverse. In ancient Greece it was prescribed as a<br />
laxative and diuretic and even today its roots are<br />
approved by the German Commission E as<br />
a remedy for UTIs and prostate conditions. It may<br />
also assist as a blood, liver and kidney tonic.<br />
Aside from the roots, the parts above ground<br />
have been used to treat kidney stones, urinary<br />
complaints, allergies, hay fever, osteoarthritis,<br />
diabetes and poor circulation. It can be applied<br />
as a poultice for muscle aches or used as a<br />
conditioner to control dandruff.<br />
Nettle Tea<br />
Place about 12 fresh leaves (thoroughly<br />
washed first) or a tablespoon of dried<br />
leaves in 1L of water. Bring to the boil<br />
and simmer for about 15 minutes. Strain<br />
and add honey if desired. Serve hot or<br />
refrigerate and drink cold.<br />
Shutterstock<br />
20 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Stinging nettle | POWER PLANT<br />
In the garden, a cold infusion of nettle<br />
leaves may be used to combat aphids or<br />
added to compost to improve its nitrogen<br />
and mineral content. Indeed, nettle works well<br />
simply dug in as a green manure. Add whole<br />
plants to water and leave for 10–14 days to<br />
make a nourishing weed tea for the garden.<br />
Growing nettle<br />
After all is said and done, nettle is a weed and<br />
will generally grow like Topsy. Though we<br />
mentioned it’s a good indicator of rich soil, nettle<br />
will also grow in clay, loamy or sandy soils and<br />
put up with low nutrient levels — anywhere, in<br />
fact, except in soil with high acidity.<br />
Nor is nettle fussy when it comes to high<br />
moisture levels and it will do equally well in damp<br />
clay or poorly drained areas; it’s often found as<br />
an understorey plant in wet environments. Full<br />
sun or shade, that doesn’t matter, either. It’s also<br />
one of few plants that will thrive in soil rich in<br />
poultry manure.<br />
A perennial that grows to 100cm, nettle<br />
is naturally wind propagated but may also<br />
proliferate through division during the<br />
growing season. The flowers are dioecious,<br />
meaning both male and female plants are<br />
required to produce fertile seed. In regions<br />
with cold winters, the plant dies back then<br />
returns in spring.<br />
Where to get it<br />
Plants and seeds of U. doica are available<br />
from online specialist suppliers such as<br />
4seasonsseeds.com.au, herbcottage.<br />
com.au, theseedcollection.com.au and<br />
allrareherbs.com.au.<br />
Nettle Parcels<br />
• 200g young nettle leaves<br />
• 1 large onion, finely chopped<br />
• 100g feta cheese<br />
• 100g ricotta cheese<br />
• 1 egg<br />
• 1 tbsp dried oregano<br />
• Pinch nutmeg<br />
• Salt & coarsely ground black pepper,<br />
to taste<br />
• Puff pastry<br />
• Whisked egg for glazing<br />
Wash nettle leaves and wilt in hot water, then<br />
rinse under cold water and dry thoroughly. Press<br />
out all liquid and chop coarsely. Place in a bowl.<br />
Saute onion until softened.<br />
Add onion and other ingredients to the bowl<br />
of leaves and mix thoroughly.<br />
Cut pastry sheets into 4 squares each. Spoon<br />
filling onto one side of triangle, fold and pinch<br />
together. Prick triangle with a fork on one side<br />
and brush with whisked egg.<br />
Bake at 200°C for about 20–30 minutes, until<br />
golden-brown and serve.<br />
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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 21
FAMILY HEIRLOOMS | Strawberries<br />
Alpine strawberries<br />
are smaller and<br />
less juicy than<br />
modern varieties,<br />
but their abundant<br />
foliage, delicate<br />
texture and scented,<br />
flavoursome fruit<br />
make a winning<br />
combination.<br />
Sweet<br />
success<br />
Among the easiest to grow and most loved of<br />
berries, strawberry plants will reward you<br />
richly with their fragrant fruit<br />
Words Melissa King<br />
Photos Diggers Club, diggers.com.au<br />
It’s hardly surprising that the<br />
heart-shaped strawberry should<br />
have such a long and romantic<br />
history. Some of the earliest<br />
records of strawberries are found in<br />
the writings of Roman poets Virgil and<br />
Ovid as far back as the 1st century CE.<br />
In medieval and Renaissance<br />
culture, the fruit embodied goodness<br />
and purity and was often depicted<br />
as a holy symbol of the Virgin Mary.<br />
European aristocracy adored the<br />
fruit. Strawberries and cream was a<br />
noble indulgence, as were strawberry<br />
wine and perfume.<br />
For centuries, Europeans ate<br />
woodland strawberries (Fragaria<br />
vesca) growing wild on the forest<br />
floor, but it was sometime in the<br />
1300s that the French began<br />
cultivating wild strawberries in the<br />
garden. The French king Charles V<br />
is even said to have planted a prized<br />
strawberry patch in his royal garden.<br />
Varieties<br />
The varieties available here in Australia<br />
sold under the umbrella of Alpine<br />
strawberries are mostly cultivated<br />
versions of Fragaria vesca, grown for<br />
their delicate texture and wonderfully<br />
fragrant fruit that fills the garden with<br />
the scent of lollies. The fruit is petite<br />
and squishy and quite a contrast to<br />
the plump modern garden strawberry;<br />
nevertheless it makes a wonderful<br />
addition to the garden.<br />
You’ll love ‘Fraises des Bois’ (syn.<br />
‘Mignonette’), which grows as a leafy<br />
clump to around 30cm tall and produces<br />
a summer crop of petite crimson<br />
berries that melt in your mouth. The<br />
compact-growing, runnerless plants<br />
make a beautiful fruiting border or<br />
decorative potted feature. ‘Reine des<br />
Valles’ is another lovely choice, with<br />
highly scented red fruit that’s best eaten<br />
straight from the bush.<br />
As the names suggests, ‘Red Wonder’<br />
is another very productive crimson<br />
variety, with tiny flowers giving way to<br />
22 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Strawberries | FAMILY HEIRLOOMS<br />
Strawberry label<br />
Common name: Alpine strawberry,<br />
wild strawberry, woodland strawberry,<br />
European strawberry<br />
Botanical name: Fragaria vesca<br />
Family: Rosaceae<br />
Aspect & soil: Full sun to part shade;<br />
fertile, well-drained soil<br />
Best climate: All<br />
Habit: Perennial, semi-deciduous<br />
Propagation: Seed, seedling, division<br />
Difficulty: Easy<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 23
FAMILY HEIRLOOMS | STRAWBERRIES<br />
Above: ‘Pineapple Crush’<br />
Below: Mixed Alpines from Diggers Club include<br />
‘Mignonette’, ‘White Baron Solemacher’, ‘Red Wonder’,<br />
‘Regina’ and ‘Reine des Vallees’<br />
cascades of petite, wonderfully flavoured<br />
fruit from late spring right through to<br />
early autumn. You might also like to try<br />
‘Regina’ with its heavy crop of sweet,<br />
bite-sized fruit in steady supply from<br />
November right through to March.<br />
For something truly unique, look out<br />
for white-fruiting varieties like ‘Baron<br />
Solemacher’, which displays petite white<br />
strawberries that the birds seem to<br />
ignore. I’m not sure if it’s my imagination,<br />
but the white-fruiting types taste sweeter<br />
to me and you don’t have to net them<br />
with the same commitment as with the<br />
red varieties.<br />
‘Pineapple Crush’ is something really<br />
special, with masses of highly scented<br />
white-yellow fruit with just a hint of<br />
pineapple flavour on a compact, nonrunning<br />
plant. You’ll know the fruit is<br />
ready to harvest when it’s soft and pale<br />
yellow. It’s a great variety to grow if you<br />
want to extend your harvest because the<br />
fruit is heaviest in autumn, just as the<br />
summer croppers are finishing.<br />
For centuries, Europeans<br />
ate woodland strawberries<br />
growing wild on the forest<br />
floor but it was sometime in<br />
the 1300s that the French<br />
began cultivating wild<br />
strawberries in the garden.<br />
Their compact, runnerless form makes them ideal for garden edging<br />
Growing<br />
There are some very good reasons to grow<br />
Alpine strawberries at home, not least of which<br />
is their ability to tantalise the tastebuds. Just<br />
a few ripe fruit can scent the air, announcing<br />
their arrival, which is a big reason they often<br />
don’t make it inside at all.<br />
The ripe crop is staggered over months, so<br />
there’s lots of picking to be done and, because<br />
the fruits are delicate and easy to squish, you<br />
rarely see them in the shops. Their neat growth<br />
habit makes them an excellent choice for pots<br />
and hanging baskets or garden edging.<br />
Like plump modern-day varieties, Alpine<br />
strawberries grow best in rich, fertile, welldrained<br />
soil. They can be grown from seed<br />
sown during spring or summer and they<br />
enjoy sunny spots but will benefit from part<br />
shade in hot areas.<br />
Feed and water regularly, particularly when<br />
the fruit is setting, and they’ll crop well for<br />
three or so years. Ripe Alpine strawberries<br />
last only a short time, so visit your strawberry<br />
patch regularly to pick the fully ripe, fully<br />
coloured fruit.<br />
Alpine strawberries are smaller and<br />
less juicy than modern varieties, but their<br />
abundant foliage, delicate texture and scented,<br />
flavoursome fruit make a winning combination.<br />
Because the temptation is so great to pick and<br />
eat them fresh from the plant, you rarely get<br />
enough to use in the kitchen. If some manage<br />
to make it indoors, I think they are best eaten<br />
simply with a dollop of cream or ice-cream or<br />
— dare I say it — just a sprinkle of sugar.<br />
For more information, visit diggers.com.au<br />
Pick daily as they don’t last long<br />
Unripe ‘Fraises des Bois’<br />
24 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
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GARDENING FOLK | Farouk & Magda Khaled<br />
The urban<br />
gardener<br />
Growing up in crowded Beirut, Farouk Khaled dreamed of owning enough land<br />
to grow whatever he wanted. In Australia, the dream came true<br />
Words & photos Jana Holmer<br />
Farouk Khaled marvels at the memory<br />
of gardening on his tiny balcony in<br />
the Lebanese capital, Beirut — in his<br />
words, “an overbuilt, traffic-clogged<br />
concrete jungle” of 2 million people.<br />
Even in that crowded, war-torn city of<br />
high-rise apartments with no yard space,<br />
Farouk managed to grow up to 20 vegetables<br />
in pots on his balcony under the glaring<br />
Mediterranean sun.<br />
“We grew what we could,” he says.<br />
“Agricultural production was severely<br />
disrupted due to ongoing war. Fishmongers<br />
were hard up selling their produce but we<br />
always managed to buy fresh grapefruit,<br />
olives, lemons, potatoes, bananas, limes,<br />
oranges and peanuts from the local<br />
market stores.<br />
“No one has fields or garden beds in the<br />
inner city but we considered ourselves pretty<br />
lucky to have a balcony garden. What we<br />
could not grow on our balcony was sourced<br />
from local farmers, but I longed one day to<br />
grow my own vegetables and live in peace.<br />
“I dreamed of owning my own land and this<br />
is why I came to Australia, for the opportunity<br />
to enjoy my own green space at last.”<br />
A change of climate<br />
When Farouk traded Beirut — known in its<br />
heyday as the Paris of the Middle East —<br />
for Melbourne, the self-styled Paris of the<br />
South, he and his Egyptian-born wife Magda<br />
eventually came to rest in the suburb of<br />
Pascoe Vale. In contrast to Lebanon’s dry, hot<br />
summers and mild winters, Melbourne gets<br />
plenty of rain in winter, while the summer<br />
heat is tempered by cool nights.<br />
Though once a vast chook farm and noted<br />
for its Cobb & Co waystation, Pascoe Vale,<br />
just 10km north of the CBD, is hardly the<br />
wide-open spaces any more. But Farouk’s<br />
experience with gardening in a confined<br />
space stood him in good stead — there’s<br />
scarcely a fruit or vegetable he doesn’t grow<br />
in his 580m 2 block.<br />
In clay beds along the garden fence<br />
filled with plenty of compost, silverbeet,<br />
beans, garlic, tomatoes, parsley and olives<br />
grow in profusion, together with oregano,<br />
plums, pears, apples, cucumber, turnips<br />
and lemons.<br />
To save space, Farouk espaliers his apple<br />
and peach trees: “They are protected against<br />
wind and kept warm up against the garden<br />
wall during cold winter months.”<br />
He has managed to make the most of his<br />
relatively small plot without cluttering it up.<br />
“The garden needs space to grow, sunlight<br />
26 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
and plenty of air. I don’t have much shadow<br />
in my garden.”<br />
Farouk uses no chemicals or pest control.<br />
“There’s nothing wrong with pests,” he says.<br />
“Keep in harmony with pests by conditioning<br />
your compost around your fruit trees and<br />
they’ll leave your fruit alone.<br />
“Use a brush or piece of cardboard to<br />
sweep aphids away from roses. I don’t believe<br />
in killing insects. They are there for a reason.”<br />
Keeping it simple<br />
Though retired now, Farouk has had a variety<br />
of jobs. He has worked as a salesman, had<br />
a job at Wittenoom asbestos mine and then<br />
followed his love of the outdoors to study<br />
horticulture at Collingwood TAFE for twoand-a-half<br />
years.<br />
After that he worked at Melbourne Zoo<br />
for five years ... “and loved it. I cleaned<br />
pathways, removed weeds, spread mulch on<br />
garden beds, dug up beds, planted hundreds<br />
of punnets of flowers and native grasses and<br />
drove a little vehicle around 350 species of<br />
plants on the 55-acre site. I’ll never forget<br />
my time there.”<br />
If working in horticulture has taught him<br />
anything it’s to keep things “simple and<br />
uncomplicated”, says Farouk. “I don’t buy any<br />
of that stuff people spend a fortune on — you<br />
know, those chemical sprays people use on<br />
plants. I say don’t kill bugs. They are friendly,<br />
they are useful, they are needed. Just keep<br />
conditioning the soil and stay away from<br />
those chemicals. They’ll end up killing<br />
you in time.<br />
“You must compost,” he adds. “It’s the only<br />
way to condition the soil and keep the right<br />
bugs in line. If you’ve got good soil you’ve<br />
got a good tree that will produce good fruit.<br />
At Melbourne Zoo I’d compost all day long<br />
to ensure that all plants were given the right<br />
start in life.”<br />
To hear Farouk tell it, gardening is as<br />
easy as it gets. “Have a plan to plant a tree?<br />
Dig a hole, put plenty of compost soup in it,<br />
water it well at the start and don’t fuss over<br />
the fruit tree. Allow it to grow freely, train it<br />
when it grows a little wild, and make sure<br />
the soil doesn’t dry out. If you fuss over a<br />
plant it will get used to it and then you’ve<br />
created a lot of hard work for yourself.<br />
Keep it simple.”<br />
Farouk doesn’t see the need for a worm<br />
farm as “there are plenty of worms in the<br />
compost soup and they love their life there”.<br />
Another way he keeps things simple is by<br />
using a manual lawn mower. “I toss some of<br />
the clippings in the compost bin and allow<br />
the rest to sit on the lawn itself to decompose<br />
without smothering the lawn. Don’t you think<br />
that’s a good idea?”<br />
Farouk & Magda Khaled | GARDENING FOLK<br />
“I don’t buy any of that stuff people spend a fortune on — you know, those<br />
chemical sprays people use on plants. I say don’t kill bugs. They<br />
are friendly, they are useful, they are needed.”<br />
Enjoying the<br />
produce<br />
Farouk believes in storing water, which he<br />
keeps in barrels in his shed. “When I need it<br />
I simply scoop water using a watering can<br />
and water difficult access points in my<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Tabouli Salad<br />
Ingredients<br />
2 bunches fresh parsley, chopped<br />
1 tomato, diced<br />
1 Lebanese cucumber, peeled, diced & seeded<br />
5 leaves fresh peppermint, chopped<br />
1 garlic clove, crushed<br />
1 onion, chopped<br />
½ cup bulgur<br />
Juice 1 lemon<br />
Dash olive oil<br />
Allspice & sea salt, to taste<br />
Method<br />
In a bowl, mix finely chopped onion with<br />
allspice and sea salt.<br />
Soak bulgur for 20 minutes in warm water.<br />
Squeeze out excess water and add to onions.<br />
Chop or dice remaining ingredients and<br />
add to the first mixing bowl. Add dash of<br />
olive oil.<br />
Serve with pita bread or lettuce leaves.
GARDENING FOLK | Farouk & Magda Khaled<br />
Farouk believes composting is everything<br />
By now this would be a pretty screen. Farouk espaliers<br />
fruit trees to save space<br />
28 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Farouk & Magda Khaled | GARDENING FOLK<br />
Farouk shares with the insects, which he doesn’t<br />
consider to be pests<br />
“The garden needs<br />
space to grow, sunlight<br />
and plenty of air. I don’t<br />
have much shadow in<br />
my garden.”<br />
on them,, such as a wrapped brick. “Then<br />
turn the olives and lay the brick on the other<br />
side. When they dry out, leave them on a flat<br />
surface and then sprinkle olive oil on them<br />
and then you can freeze them.<br />
“I also hang garlic from the roof rafters in<br />
the garage, as well as oregano. Oregano is<br />
very strong and it is also good in tabouli.”<br />
For Farouk, Magda’s tabouli salad is the<br />
perfect cure for homesickness. “It’s so easy<br />
to make and it tastes so-o-o good. Growing<br />
up in Lebanon, my parents raised me to eat<br />
healthy food from an early age. Tabouli can<br />
be eaten with most dishes and it tastes fresh<br />
and has a distinct texture and vivid colours.<br />
“Anyone can make it. I don’t usually<br />
measure the ingredients and sometimes I add<br />
a variety of different other vegetables to it.<br />
But no matter what vegetable you add, you’ll<br />
find it’s beneficial to your health.”<br />
garden bed such as my side garden,” he says.<br />
“Water is precious and without it you’re<br />
not able to keep the water levels maintained<br />
in the soil beds. Keep water levels consistent<br />
throughout the garden beds. Allowing it to<br />
fluctuate will cause stress on the plant and<br />
result in poor-quality fruit.”<br />
Like many of us, Farouk regards gardening<br />
not as work or even a pastime but as part of<br />
life. He likes spending time with family and<br />
friends “but my friends know me as someone<br />
who enjoys my garden. When I wake up in the<br />
morning you will find me in my garden plucking<br />
a few green vegies for breakfast or dinner.<br />
“I have a simple garden without fuss and<br />
I just enjoy foraging about and checking on<br />
new growth.”<br />
The Khaleds preserve their black olives<br />
by applying rock salt and placing a weight<br />
Farouk’s Top Tips<br />
• Keep your plants in harmony with<br />
good and bad bugs.<br />
• Don’t rake your lawn clippings.<br />
• Allow your plants to grow without fuss.<br />
• Espalier if necessary to conserve space,<br />
especially if you have a small garden<br />
like mine.<br />
• Don’t grow tomatoes in the same<br />
spot year after year.<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 29
GARDENING FOLK | Danny Summers<br />
Danny’s bee<br />
haven<br />
A great friend to the local bees and other<br />
insects, this inventive food gardener uses<br />
permaculture principles along with his<br />
own unique methods<br />
30 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Danny Summers | GARDENING FOLK<br />
Danny hosts seven honeybee<br />
hives for a friend<br />
Danny grows a great selection of fruit trees and shrubs, including<br />
pomegranate, passionfruit, Brazilian guavas, boysenberries, peaches,<br />
oranges, limes and lemonades, as well as native hibiscus.<br />
Words & photos Sandra Tuszynska<br />
Danny and his wife Carolyn have<br />
lived near Murgon in southeast<br />
Queensland for the past 15<br />
years. Both have a passion for<br />
art; while Carolyn loves to draw and paint,<br />
Danny creates installations for the garden<br />
using recycled materials. He especially loves<br />
to collect old electricity post insulators and<br />
install them as garden décor.<br />
Danny feels sentimental about burning<br />
the 100-year old timber. “It’s too sad to<br />
burn history,” he says. He’s fascinated by<br />
the antique ceramic insulators and says the<br />
workmanship in them is incredible: “They look<br />
as good as new.” He jokes, “I wish I looked as<br />
good at 60 years old.”<br />
For the love of bees<br />
Danny hesitates to admit that bees<br />
are his passion, but he’s a dedicated<br />
member of Valley Bees, a very active and<br />
knowledgeable bee group based in Gympie.<br />
He hosts seven honeybee hives for a friend<br />
and rescues native bee hives. Danny finds<br />
out about selective clearing events and<br />
goes there beforehand to inspect the site<br />
for native bee activity. He then removes any<br />
logs inhabited by the tiny creatures and<br />
takes them home.<br />
Danny doesn’t collect their honey; he<br />
just loves them and likes to use their log<br />
homes as installations for his garden. He<br />
estimates that around 10 resued colonies<br />
now have their homes on his property.<br />
“You need to know when to rescue them,”<br />
he explains. “They increase their activity<br />
when it’s hot. Water is essential for bees and<br />
they’re sensitive to disturbance. Also, if<br />
you leave space for them in the log, the<br />
hive will grow.”<br />
We have about 10 species of native<br />
social bees in the genera Tetragonula<br />
and Austroplebeia.<br />
Danny has also created several bee<br />
blocks for solitary native bees on old<br />
electricity poles with insulators. Plus, he<br />
The filled holes indicate occupation<br />
by native bees<br />
has built a bee wall near his gardens to<br />
provide a nesting habitat for the myriad<br />
solitary bees that live in the area.<br />
He explains, “Different hole sizes are<br />
used by different bee species, which use<br />
different materials for their nests and to<br />
block off their nests, so you can tell which<br />
species of bees are using the sites.”<br />
Many of the holes in the wooden blocks<br />
are filled, a good indication that bees or<br />
other creatures are making use of the<br />
nesting sites. The bee haven Danny has<br />
created seems to be appreciated by the<br />
various pollinators that inhabit his garden.<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 31
GARDENING FOLK | Danny Summers<br />
Native bee<br />
Bee home<br />
Danny’s<br />
gardening tips<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Don’t do more than you can handle.<br />
2. Keep away from high-growth<br />
fertilisers with lots of nitrogen unless<br />
you can supply enough water to trees<br />
for growth and nutrient uptake.<br />
3. Create bird and insect habitats, for<br />
bees especially, to pollinate your garden<br />
and reduce pests and diseases.<br />
4. Use lots of worm juice on your trees<br />
and garden and compost what you can.<br />
5. Seaweed tea is a valuable mineral<br />
resource that does wonders for<br />
growing plants.<br />
6. <strong>Good</strong>-quality mulch is essential.<br />
Micro-bat box<br />
Permaculture<br />
principles in action<br />
Danny experiments with permaculture<br />
principles. He has a row of olive trees given to<br />
him by an Italian friend that he planted eight<br />
years ago. They serve as a windbreak against<br />
westerlies and create a microclimate. Danny<br />
is quite observant when it comes to how<br />
nature works in the habitats he provides.<br />
For instance, double-barred finches like<br />
to build their nests close to wasp nests for<br />
safety against attack from bigger birds.<br />
Danny appreciates the pest control the<br />
finches provide. His 26 ducks eat fallen fruit,<br />
preventing fruit flies breeding, while the<br />
duck eggs are a significant food source for<br />
the dog. Bella skilfully punctures the shells<br />
and laps up the contents.<br />
The native bees and wasps pollinate<br />
the figs and olives. Danny has installed a<br />
microbat box with some shadecloth for<br />
them to climb into the box. He explains,<br />
“Microbats can eat two-thirds of their own<br />
weight in mosquitoes!”.<br />
The garden<br />
& fruit trees<br />
Most of Danny’s beds are bordered by old<br />
railway sleepers and he tops up the soil with<br />
horse manure from Carolyn’s horses. He also<br />
feeds worms with horse manure through a<br />
downpipe inserted into the beds.<br />
He likes to grow different garlic and leek<br />
varieties, including elephant garlic and the really<br />
hot varieties such as ‘Early White’, ‘Early Purple’<br />
and ‘Italian Red’.<br />
Danny adds crushed basalt or granite<br />
to remineralise the soil and creates his own<br />
biodynamic lifter from rice husks: “Rice husk<br />
contains silicon and potash. You can burn it and<br />
mix the ash with water to produce biodynamic<br />
lifter. It also makes fantastic bedding for chooks,<br />
good garden mulch and it aerates the soil.” He<br />
adds. “Peanut hay is a great nitrogen source —<br />
and there’s plenty of it here in peanut country.”<br />
Danny grows a great selection of fruit trees<br />
Danny finds out about<br />
selective clearing events<br />
and goes there beforehand<br />
to inspect the site for<br />
native bee activity. He then<br />
removes any logs inhabited<br />
by the tiny creatures and<br />
takes them home.<br />
Fruit-fly traps are recycled milk bottles<br />
painted orange and filled with boiled<br />
apple cider vinegar to attract the flies<br />
32 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Danny Summers | GARDENING FOLK<br />
and shrubs, including pomegranate, passionfruit,<br />
Brazilian guavas, boysenberries, peaches,<br />
oranges, limes and lemonades, as well as<br />
native hibiscus.<br />
“Pigeon pea creates a great microclimate<br />
and can be eaten as dhal,” he says. He likes<br />
to propagate bromeliads, too. There are some<br />
Himalayan ash trees, which are not native but the<br />
king parrots love their seeds.<br />
Water is often scarce in Murgon and the dam<br />
was dry at the time of our visit. In dry periods,<br />
advises Danny, “Don’t use too much nitrogen,<br />
because without sufficient water supply to<br />
help the plants grow, the nitrogen is wasted<br />
and can burn plants.”<br />
He’s set up a grey water system but is mindful<br />
of changing the supply to different trees. “Don’t<br />
build up too much soapsuds as they contain<br />
sulphates and can make the soil waterrepellent,”<br />
he warns.<br />
Danny also uses mulch to strain the heavier<br />
constituents of the grey water to protect the<br />
soil. He likes to use sugarcane mulch, preferring<br />
to pay more for good-quality mulch that has<br />
no weeds rather than spend time and effort<br />
removing weeds introduced by cheap mulch.<br />
Worm juice<br />
and seaweed tea<br />
Danny enjoys creating worm juice in large<br />
quantities. He has constructed a worm farm<br />
designed to leach worm juice. The worms are<br />
farmed in a shed, on sloped tables lined with<br />
black plastic. At the taller end, the worms are fed<br />
horse manure. Danny adds lime to reduce acidity<br />
and mixes it all up regularly to provide aeration,<br />
as the mix is watered to produce runoff.<br />
The runoff flows down the slope and is<br />
collected in buckets and aerated with a small<br />
fishtank pump. This ensures growth of the<br />
beneficial micro-organisms that give worm juice<br />
its excellent fertilising properties.<br />
Danny also feeds molasses to the microbes<br />
in the juice. He then strains the runoff through<br />
stockings and collects the worm juice in recycled<br />
Danny creates his own biodynamic lifter<br />
from rice husks<br />
milk bottles. He dilutes it before using it on the<br />
garden and gives some away.<br />
Danny’s other favourite fertiliser is seaweed<br />
tea. He buys Tasmanian seaweed, as it’s low in<br />
arsenic and other toxins, unlike seaweed from<br />
other countries. He puts 1kg of seaweed into<br />
20L of water, mixing it regularly, as it sticks to<br />
the bottom of the bucket. It takes six weeks<br />
for the nutrients to enter the water. He then<br />
strains it off through a paint strainer. He says<br />
the worms also love the seaweed tea.<br />
Danny definitely likes to work with nature in<br />
an inventive way. He has an eye for the different<br />
functions that each creature and plant<br />
contributes to create a sustainable garden<br />
ecosystem.<br />
Danny’s other favourite<br />
fertiliser is seaweed tea. He<br />
buys Tasmanian seaweed,<br />
as it’s low in arsenic and<br />
other toxins, unlike seaweed<br />
from other countries.<br />
Water is essential for bees<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 33
GARDENING FOLK | Sandra & Mick Nanka<br />
Herbal<br />
happiness<br />
Sandra and Mick Nanka of Mudbrick Cottage Herb Farm<br />
A passion for herb growing and a desire for self-sufficiency are the driving<br />
forces behind this productive garden and business<br />
Words & photos Claire Bickle<br />
FThere are people who like herbs<br />
and then there are people who<br />
are passionate about herbs — who<br />
live herbs. Sandra and Mick Nanka<br />
are such people. They grow one of the<br />
largest ranges of herbs in Queensland,<br />
if not Australia.<br />
Self-sufficiency is the backbone of<br />
their lives, home and business and what<br />
better location for it all than the Gold<br />
Coast hinterland in a delightful spot<br />
called Mudgeeraba?<br />
Sandra and Mick have lived there since<br />
1982; they’ve raised their four sons there.<br />
Their home is their haven, filled with love,<br />
memories and a garden to soothe the soul<br />
and bring joy to their lives every day.<br />
The Nankas have created a garden<br />
paradise on their half-hectare block and, with<br />
a subtropical climate on their side, there’s<br />
gardening going on all year round.<br />
They run a small business there as<br />
well, called Mudbrick Cottage, open to the<br />
public Monday and Tuesday each week<br />
and the third weekend of every month.<br />
They also sell online herb plants, dried<br />
herbs and related products.<br />
When asked what else they enjoy<br />
doing, Sandra and Mick agree that fishing<br />
and travelling are next on their list of<br />
preferred pastimes.<br />
Sandra also loves running wonderful<br />
workshops on all things herbal to share<br />
her immense knowledge and passion, and<br />
also to give people the confidence to have<br />
a go themselves.<br />
Asked where their passion for gardening<br />
came from, Mick offers, “My dad always had<br />
a vegetable garden, with chickens as part<br />
A handcrafted birdbath serves as both<br />
a water source for birds and an artwork<br />
34 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Sandra & Mick Nanka | GARDENING FOLK<br />
of the mix.” He says his father was in turn<br />
influenced by his family in Croatia, who were<br />
also self-sufficient. They grew much of their<br />
fruit and veg and raised livestock for meat<br />
and eggs.<br />
As for Sandra, “It was my great-uncle Ossie<br />
and great-aunt Maud, who lived in Chinchilla<br />
not far from my grandmother’s place.” She<br />
says they had everything growing you could<br />
possibly imagine and in such a challenging<br />
climate that was no mean feat.<br />
There were mulberries, grapes,<br />
passionfruit, chokos and trellises of sweet<br />
peas, figs and flowers everywhere. Days<br />
would be spent playing hide and seek in this<br />
magical garden, always followed by Auntie<br />
Maud’s tea, cakes, biscuits, scones and<br />
homemade grape and fig jam.<br />
Sandra says she always loved the thought<br />
of turning produce from the garden into<br />
something that would taste wonderful and<br />
keep the memory alive when the fresh fruit<br />
was long gone.<br />
The patch<br />
The first thing Sandra and Mick did when<br />
they moved in together was create a<br />
vegetable and herb garden. These days, there<br />
are still vegetables and herbs but also fruiting<br />
trees, though the most abundant harvests<br />
are from the never-ending supply of herbs.<br />
Sandra says their jaboticaba (also called<br />
Brazilian grape tree) is very productive, too —<br />
so much so that they often have to freeze a<br />
lot of the fruit.<br />
The garden beds are all slightly raised<br />
because of the shale and clay-based soil<br />
and to improve drainage, which have been<br />
the greatest challenges. They’ve continually<br />
added compost to improve soil structure.<br />
Medicinal, culinary, aromatic, pest-repellent ... they’ve got it all<br />
“Sandra always loved the thought of turning<br />
produce from the garden into something that<br />
would taste wonderful and keep the memory alive<br />
when the fresh fruit was long gone.”<br />
Large gum trees also make things difficult,<br />
throwing shade over the garden during<br />
winter, not to mention the water and<br />
nutrients they draw from the soil.<br />
The feature vegetable garden is in the<br />
mandala style with bamboo used for edging.<br />
There are also tank beds and an area that’s<br />
a mix of vegies grown in rows with fruit trees<br />
dotted in between. This particular section is<br />
watered by the run-off from the nursery.<br />
The Nankas harvest their own water via<br />
their large dam and 7500-gallon tank. Other<br />
measures they have in place to save and<br />
recycle water are the nursery’s water-saving<br />
sprinklers and the use of grey water to<br />
irrigate the fruit trees.<br />
Keeping it organic<br />
Asked why they think growing organically<br />
is important, they state the obvious: it’s<br />
the right thing to do. “If you’re going to eat<br />
the plants you’re growing, you don’t want<br />
The Nankas’ herb nursery is vast<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 35
GARDENING FOLK | Sandra & Mick Nanka<br />
There are many beautiful<br />
nooks and crannies<br />
Cuppa, anyone?<br />
The chickens of Mudbrick Cottage are happy with their daily<br />
dose of herbs mixed into their diet<br />
36 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Sandra & Mick Nanka | GARDENING FOLK<br />
Prevention is better than cure is<br />
their philosophy, so they find growing a<br />
multitude of herbs around the vegetables<br />
and not planting them in blocks works<br />
really well to cause confusion for the<br />
would-be attackers.<br />
Calendulas galore: a plant with so many uses<br />
potentially harmful chemicals in them,<br />
says Sandra.<br />
“Nature finds a balance, and a few<br />
holes here and there in the leaves don’t<br />
really matter. That’s why we even limit<br />
our organic pest control methods —<br />
because we don’t want to harm any of the<br />
beneficial insects. It’s important to nourish<br />
the soil, and using organic methods will<br />
equate to healthy soil, leading to healthy<br />
plants, healthy humans and a healthy<br />
planet. Simple!”<br />
The fertilisers used include manure from<br />
their chooks, worm castings from their<br />
The Nankas’ top<br />
gardening tips<br />
Grow your own herbs and produce in<br />
mixed profusion to confuse insects.<br />
Plant crops in the right season.<br />
Use herbs in the compost heap to add<br />
minerals and help with breakdown.<br />
When planting new plants:<br />
– Soak seedlings in a seaweed solution<br />
before planting.<br />
– Add compost at the time of planting.<br />
– Always fill the planting holes with<br />
water first to ensure the soil is moist.<br />
Let the annual herbs go to seed to<br />
attract beneficial insects.<br />
“The feature vegetable<br />
garden is in the<br />
mandala style with<br />
bamboo used for edging.<br />
There are also tank beds<br />
and an area that’s a mix<br />
of vegies grown in rows<br />
with fruit trees dotted<br />
in between.<br />
two bathtub worm farms and compost and<br />
pelletised manure during the growing season.<br />
Compost production at Mudbrick<br />
Cottage comprises five heaps <strong>1.</strong>5m by <strong>1.</strong>5m<br />
each. In the main garden there’s a large<br />
black compost bin and, in the nursery,<br />
two further large heaps for all the plants<br />
classed as throw-outs.<br />
When it comes to bugs, organic controls<br />
are the only methods Sandra and Mick use:<br />
homemade white oil and Eco-oil on the fruit<br />
trees and certified organic pyrethrum on<br />
the odd occasion. If there are any red spider<br />
mite outbreaks they order in some predatory<br />
mites to control them.<br />
The abundance of<br />
the Nankas’ garden<br />
“I love that we can look out across our garden<br />
and think how wonderful that something so<br />
beautiful (well, I think it’s beautiful) can also<br />
be so useful,” says Sandra.<br />
She and Mick think the most unique<br />
feature of their garden is the vast number of<br />
herb species they have growing and I’d have<br />
to agree.<br />
When asked what they like to do with their<br />
harvests, both agree they love cooking and<br />
herbs are an integral part of every meal. Even<br />
the Mudbrick Cottage chickens have herbs<br />
mixed into their daily diet.<br />
Salads are at the top of the list in the<br />
meals department — Sandra says they<br />
often have up to 40 different plants in each<br />
salad. Then there are herbal teas, infused<br />
oils, ointments, tinctures, syrups and<br />
poultices made lovingly on a regular basis<br />
in the Nankas’ home.<br />
The dehydrator also gets a workout<br />
drying excess herbs and vegetables<br />
while pestos, herb butters, chutneys and<br />
jams are other ways they prolong their<br />
enjoyment of their harvest.<br />
You can find the Nankas’ online herb<br />
business at herbcottage.com.au<br />
Facebook: Mudbrick Cottage Herb Farm<br />
Salvia officinalis: both leaves and flowers are edible<br />
on the sage plant<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 37
TIME TO PLANT | Lettuce<br />
Lettuce<br />
Lactuca sativa<br />
The year-round essential that’s always infinitely better<br />
straight from the backyard<br />
Words Melissa King<br />
Plant a crop of lettuce every few<br />
weeks and you’ll always have fresh<br />
leafy greens at your fingertips.<br />
Lettuces are quick and easy to grow<br />
and can be planted and picked year round in<br />
many areas. So why not fill decorative pots or<br />
garden beds with lettuces in every leaf colour<br />
and texture?<br />
Choose from loose-leaf lettuces that can<br />
be picked leaf by leaf as you need them or<br />
hearting varieties that form dense heads<br />
of leaves and are harvested in one chop.<br />
The best-known hearting lettuce has to be<br />
‘Iceberg’, which has crisp, succulent green<br />
leaves with a mild flavour that complements<br />
everything from sung choi bao to the good<br />
old Aussie prawn cocktail.<br />
I like to grow the loose-leaf lettuce types,<br />
which can be picked on demand, like the<br />
incredibly beautiful ‘Red Velvet’, with rich,<br />
deep-maroon-coloured leaves that are as<br />
attractive as any flower. Plant it en masse for<br />
real impact or grow it alongside lime-green<br />
Most lettuce varieties<br />
are ready to harvest in<br />
as little as 5–6 weeks if<br />
you are planting them<br />
as seedlings. Hearting<br />
types take a bit longer.<br />
varieties like ‘Royal Oakleaf’ for contrast.<br />
‘Royal Oakleaf’ has a long history, dating back<br />
to 1771 and stands up well to the heat, so it’s<br />
a good choice for growing at this time of year.<br />
‘Gold Rush’ is another lime-green stunner<br />
that’s slow to bolt, so you can pick it for<br />
longer. It has crinkled, almost gold foliage that<br />
lights up the garden and the kitchen. ‘Rouge<br />
d’Hiver’ is another attractive loose-leaf type<br />
with chocolate-red foliage tinged with green<br />
at the base that adds colour and variety to<br />
the salad bowl.<br />
I also enjoy the delicate, light texture of<br />
butter lettuces, like ‘Freckles Bunte’ with<br />
crinkled green foliage that is speckled with<br />
red patches. If you like a bit of frill, try growing<br />
Italian Lollo varieties with ruffled leaves in<br />
shades of green, pink and red.<br />
Growing conditions: Lettuce can be<br />
grown from seed or planted as seedlings.<br />
Plant in a sunny spot with rich, welldrained<br />
soil. If you live in a hot area, give<br />
plants some shade from around lunchtime<br />
onwards, particularly through the warmer<br />
months, and choose heat-tolerant varieties<br />
that are less likely to bolt to seed. Lettuces<br />
are shallow-rooted plants, so keep the<br />
water up and liquid-feed every two weeks<br />
for lots of leafy greens.<br />
Spacing: Sow seed in rows about 30cm apart<br />
and cover with a thin layer of soil, or plant<br />
seedlings 20–35cm apart in rows 30cm apart.<br />
Harvest: Most lettuce varieties are ready to<br />
harvest in as little as 5–6 weeks if you are<br />
planting them as seedlings. Hearting types<br />
take a bit longer. If you are growing loose-leaf<br />
lettuces, simply harvest the outside leaves<br />
as you need them or pick the mature head in<br />
one go. Harvest hearting lettuces all at once<br />
when the head is full and ripe.<br />
Growing tip: If you’re tight on space, try<br />
growing lettuces in sunny pots or look out for<br />
miniature varieties like Baby or Mini Cos, with<br />
a compact habit and sweet, crisp leaves.<br />
‘Iceberg’<br />
Lettuce label<br />
Common name: Lettuce<br />
Botanical name: Lactuca sativa<br />
Family: Asteraceae<br />
Aspect & soil: Sunny position;<br />
rich, well-drained soil<br />
Best climate: All<br />
Habit: Annual<br />
Propagation: Seed, seedling<br />
Difficulty: Easy<br />
Kerry Boyne<br />
38 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
RADISH | TIME TO PLANT<br />
Radish<br />
Raphanus sativus<br />
Another salad star that adds peppery flavour<br />
and crunch to your meals<br />
Shutterstock<br />
Words Melissa King<br />
Radishes are fast and easy to grow<br />
with colourful roots and a crisp, firm<br />
texture that brings crunch and a<br />
peppery zing to fresh salads and<br />
side dishes.<br />
Research different radish varieties and<br />
you’ll be surprised by the sheer range you<br />
can grow. If you’re after a standard, round,<br />
red radish with crisp, white flesh, ‘Early<br />
Scarlet Globe’ is a pretty, fast-growing<br />
choice. Or for something extra bright in<br />
the salad bowl, try ‘Champion’, with cherrycoloured<br />
skin and a mild flavour. For an<br />
extra big crop of radishes, try ‘Giant of Sicily’<br />
with large red globes that can be harvested<br />
45–55 days after sowing.<br />
Then there are decorative varieties like<br />
‘French Breakfast’, which dates back to<br />
the 1890s and produces pretty oblong,<br />
rose-coloured radishes with white tips,<br />
which make an attractive side dish. Radish<br />
‘Watermelon’ is another appealing variety,<br />
aptly named for its white skin and brightpink<br />
flesh, or you might like to try ‘Hailstone’<br />
with crisp snow-white globes.<br />
Radish ‘Black Spanish Long’ is said to<br />
have come to Australia with the First Fleet.<br />
The long cylindrical root has beautiful dark<br />
skin, contrasting white flesh and a pungent<br />
flavour. There’s also a round variety, not<br />
surprisingly called ‘Black Spanish Round’,<br />
with a spicy, almost nutty flavour. The flesh<br />
is lovely sliced fresh, grated in salads or<br />
pickled. If you’re not sure which one to grow,<br />
get your hands on an heirloom mix of seeds<br />
with radishes in a rainbow of colours.<br />
Growing conditions: Radishes are hardy<br />
annuals that enjoy full sun and rich, welldrained<br />
soil. Seeds can be direct-sown<br />
every season into soil that has been<br />
enriched with compost and organic matter.<br />
Thin the young seedlings to 2.5–5cm apart<br />
and keep well watered.<br />
Growing tip: Sow a small crop every two<br />
to three weeks for a succession of fresh,<br />
crisp radishes.<br />
Harvest: Radishes are quick to harvest, with<br />
some varieties ready to pull just 25 days<br />
from sowing. They are generally eaten raw<br />
in salads, so harvest the roots when they are<br />
young and tender.<br />
Radishes are quick<br />
to harvest, with some<br />
varieties ready to pull<br />
just 25 days from sowing.<br />
They are generally eaten<br />
raw in salads.<br />
‘French Breakfast’<br />
Radish label<br />
Common name: Radish<br />
Botanical name: Raphanus sativus<br />
Family: Brassicaceae<br />
Aspect & soil: Full sun;<br />
rich, well-drained soil<br />
Best climate: All<br />
Habit: Annual<br />
Propagation: Seed, seedling<br />
Difficulty: Easy<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 39
GARDEN DIARY | Mid-summer<br />
Things to do in<br />
<strong>January</strong><br />
Summer in Australia is a season of extremes. Prepare for it to be very hot,<br />
wet, dry or windy, depending on climatic conditions. This is the season of<br />
floods, fires and cyclones, all of which take their toll on gardens<br />
By Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
Vegetables<br />
COOL & TEMPERATE<br />
Avoid the worst of the day’s heat by gardening<br />
in the cool of the early morning. Use this time<br />
to water and tend crops, check for pests,<br />
remove weeds and spot vegetables that are<br />
ready to harvest. On very hot days, shade<br />
crops to prevent sun damage. Repeat this<br />
inspection in the evening, paying particular<br />
attention to plants that need extra water.<br />
Make sure tomatoes are well watered to avoid<br />
blossom-end rot in fruit. If some crops are<br />
failing to form fruit — particularly cucurbits,<br />
including pumpkins, squash and zucchini — try<br />
hand pollination (transferring pollen from male<br />
flowers to receptive female flowers). In fruit fly<br />
zones, protect all soft vegies (such as tomatoes<br />
and capsicum) from fruit fly attack. These pests<br />
become more active as summer progresses.<br />
Use fruit fly baits or traps and, where possible,<br />
cover individual fruit with exclusion bags or<br />
nets. Regularly liquid-feed all edibles, especially<br />
leafy greens, and make new plantings of<br />
successful crops to keep the harvest coming.<br />
Keep weeds under control by hoeing between<br />
rows. Cover any bare soil with a thin layer of<br />
organic mulch to help deter weed growth.<br />
TROPICAL<br />
Harvest vegies while they are small and tender.<br />
In the heat and humidity of the wet season,<br />
crops such as zucchini and cucumber quickly<br />
over-mature. They become large, seedy and<br />
watery and are best fed to the chooks. Leafy<br />
crops, too, can become tough and bitter as<br />
they age, so always harvest them regularly.<br />
Replace mature crops with fresh sowings.<br />
Shade new plantings to protect them from both<br />
heat and heavy rains. Sweet corn, sunflowers<br />
and climbing crops on a trellis, such as Ceylon<br />
spinach, provide a natural source of shade for<br />
the vegie garden. Combat powdery mildew with<br />
regular applications of milk spray (one part<br />
whole milk to 10 parts water) or just pull out<br />
badly affected plants.<br />
Fruit<br />
COOL & TEMPERATE<br />
Mow or weed around fruit trees and deeply<br />
water trees, shrubs and vines at least once a<br />
week if rain is scarce, but reduce watering of<br />
fig trees. Feed most fruiting trees and shrubs,<br />
including apples, apricots and blueberries.<br />
Keep up fruit fly protection for still-ripening soft<br />
fruits, including raspberries. Use baits, traps and<br />
exclusion bags. Protect ripening fruit from birds.<br />
Use nets or reusable fruit baskets that snap<br />
over fruit clusters to protect crops against birds<br />
and bats. If using nets, use only white knitted<br />
nets that are less likely to snare birds, bats<br />
and reptiles. Stretch nets so they’re taut, avoid<br />
overly large nets that pool on the ground where<br />
they may trap small reptiles and regularly<br />
inspect nets to free any trapped animals.<br />
TROPICAL<br />
Keep harvesting summer fruit, including<br />
avocados, custard apples, mangoes, pawpaw<br />
and passionfruit. Hand-pollinate passionfruit<br />
flowers if fruit is slow to form. Check flowers<br />
regularly for ripe pollen to transfer to the<br />
sticky female part of the flower. Use a dry<br />
brush or cotton bud to transfer pollen. Bottle,<br />
freeze or dry excess crops. If fungal diseases<br />
are evident on fruit or foliage, apply a copperbased<br />
fungicide approved for organic gardens.<br />
Also, keep organic fruit fly baits fresh by<br />
regularly reapplying and protecting them<br />
from rain. Apply fertiliser to avocado, banana,<br />
If cucurbits are failing to<br />
fruit, try hand pollination<br />
custard apple, jackfruit, loquat, passionfruit<br />
and pawpaw, especially after periods of heavy<br />
rain, which leaches nutrients from the soil.<br />
Compost & soil<br />
COOL & TEMPERATE<br />
Chop up green prunings and seed-free<br />
weeds to add to compost heaps, layered with<br />
dry leaves. Compost is developing rapidly,<br />
so regularly use compost from the heap,<br />
spreading it over soil as natural mulch. This<br />
protects soils, keeps them cool and deters<br />
weed growth. Heaps should be moist but not<br />
too wet. If there are extended periods of heavy<br />
rain, cover heaps that are too wet. Conversely,<br />
if the weather is hot and dry, compost heaps<br />
can dry out and may need to be watered and<br />
turned. Keep worm farms in a cool location as<br />
hot spells can kill worms.<br />
TROPICAL<br />
Summer storms continue to leach nutrients<br />
from soils, so renew mulches or simply<br />
lay down chopped-up prunings, including<br />
chopped palm and fern fronds, to protect the<br />
soil. Apply fertilisers including potash to rapidly<br />
growing vegetables and fruiting crops. In<br />
fallow vegie beds, plant a green manure crop<br />
to add fertility to the soil in time for dry season<br />
planting, or cover soil with a layer of mulch.<br />
Use the cooler evenings to do vigorous<br />
work such as digging, spreading mulches or<br />
turning the compost heap.<br />
Shutterstock, Jana Holmer<br />
40 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Mid-summer | GARDEN DIARY<br />
1<br />
2<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Hoe between the rows to control weeds<br />
2. Dry excess mangoes to enjoy fruit year round<br />
3. Bird-safe white netting over fruit trees<br />
3<br />
(Leppington) Pty Ltd<br />
ABN 36 001 123 726<br />
1675 The Northern Road Bringelly NSW 2556<br />
Phone: (02) 4773 4291 Fax: (02) 4773 4104 Email: sales@lpcmilk.com<br />
Suppliers of certified poultry and cow manures.<br />
Fresh or composted delivered in bulk.<br />
Great for all types of agriculture industries.<br />
Poultry manure which can be spread in residential<br />
areas, golf courses, sporting ovals and parks.<br />
Also ask us about our reduced low odour.<br />
Member of Australian <strong>Organic</strong> Association<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 41
GARDEN DIARY | Late summer<br />
Things to do in<br />
<strong>February</strong><br />
Enjoy the bounty of late summer by eating what you can while it’s<br />
fresh and preserving the rest for the cooler months ahead<br />
By Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
Vegetables<br />
COOL & TEMPERATE<br />
In addition to daily watering, liquid-feed<br />
leafy vegies each week with organic plant<br />
food to keep plants actively growing. Leafy<br />
crops such as lettuce and parsley may bolt<br />
(that is, begin to flower and seed) if allowed<br />
to dry out or become stressed. As hot<br />
days continue, shade crops to prevent sun<br />
damage and allow new plantings to establish.<br />
Seedlings are particularly vulnerable to<br />
sudden hot temperatures or drying winds.<br />
Continue to make the most of the cool of<br />
the morning and evening to tend crops.<br />
Stay on top of pests, diseases and weeds by<br />
inspecting plants daily and taking fast action<br />
when anything damaging is seen. Search for<br />
28-spotted ladybirds and pumpkin beetles<br />
that skeletonise leaves on pumpkins,<br />
zucchini and eggplants — squash adults,<br />
larvae and eggs.<br />
TROPICAL<br />
Regularly remove spent crops or those<br />
badly affected by diseases such as powdery<br />
mildew. Bury diseased and pest-infested<br />
material — don’t put it into compost heaps.<br />
Keep a supply of leafy greens for salads and<br />
stirfries by planting Asian greens, kang kong,<br />
1<br />
silverbeet and amaranth, which thrive in the<br />
heat and humidity of summer. Pick small,<br />
tender leaves and edible shoots. Visit a local<br />
farmers’ market to look for new and unusual<br />
crops that grow well at this time of the<br />
year. Also plant cherry tomatoes for an<br />
autumn harvest.<br />
Fruit<br />
COOL & TEMPERATE<br />
In cool areas, watch for a recurrence of pear<br />
and cherry slug, which skeletonises foliage on<br />
pear, cherry and peach trees. Dust with lime,<br />
ash or a certified organic product. In fruit<br />
fly zones, continue to maintain protection<br />
by renewing fly baits and removing infested<br />
fruits (see box). After harvesting summer<br />
crops, remove and store bird exclusion nets<br />
and lightly prune trees. Feed citrus trees<br />
now using a citrus food or organic fertiliser.<br />
Water trees well after applying fertiliser. In dry<br />
areas where water is limited, grey water can<br />
be used to water fruit trees, but don’t store<br />
untreated grey water for longer than 24 hours<br />
and don’t use on leafy vegetable crops.<br />
TROPICAL<br />
Fertilise all citrus trees using an organic<br />
plant food formulated for citrus. Also feed<br />
other productive plants not already fed this<br />
summer, including passionfruit and pawpaw.<br />
Continue to bottle, freeze or dry excess crops<br />
and collect and dispose of spoiled fruits.<br />
Poultry can help clean up fallen fruits and<br />
reduce pest problems, so allow them to free<br />
range around established fruiting plants but<br />
keep them out of the vegie garden unless<br />
you want the entire area cleared.<br />
Compost & soil<br />
COOL & TEMPERATE<br />
If soils have become hard to wet, apply a soilwetting<br />
agent. Once soil is moistened, cover<br />
lightly with a fine layer of compost topped<br />
with a layer of coarse organic mulch. Don’t<br />
mulch too heavily as this can stop moisture<br />
from reaching the soil — a 5cm layer is<br />
sufficient. Use a spade to turn compost<br />
heaps to keep them working efficiently.<br />
TROPICAL<br />
This is the time to improve the moistureholding<br />
ability of your soil by adding<br />
organic mulch such as compost. Dig it<br />
into new areas to prepare for planting<br />
and also add it as surface mulch. Let the<br />
earthworms do the work of turning it into<br />
the soil. Chop up green and woody material<br />
before adding it to the compost to help it<br />
break down faster.<br />
2<br />
Kerry Boyne, Shutterstock<br />
42 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Late summer | GARDEN DIARY<br />
Fruit fly in fruit<br />
Reduce fruit fly by rigorously finding and<br />
removing fruit fly-affected fruit. Left on the<br />
plant or lying on the ground, larvae can<br />
pupate in the soil, mature and start another<br />
generation. Look for fruit that shows signs of<br />
stings (small punctures) on the skin or fruit<br />
that’s rotting due to larvae inside. Pick up all<br />
fallen fruit. Destroy the larvae in the fruit by<br />
placing the damaged fruit in a clear plastic<br />
bag and leaving it to stew for a few days in the<br />
sun. It can then be buried (don’t put it in the<br />
compost). Allowing poultry to feed in orchards<br />
can help reduce fruit fly numbers.<br />
3<br />
4<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Beware the 28 spotted ladybird (Epilachna<br />
vigintioctopunctata) — she is not your friend<br />
2. Fertilise all citrus with an organic citrus food<br />
3. Pick up fallen fruit to help control fruit fly<br />
4. Kang kong — a good one to plant now for<br />
a supply of leafy greens<br />
5. Change birdbath water regularly so<br />
mosquitoes can’t breed in it<br />
5<br />
Buzz off!<br />
Bloodsucking mosquitoes can<br />
spoil time in the garden. In addition<br />
to protecting yourself from bites,<br />
regularly empty water collected in<br />
containers. This removes mozzie<br />
breeding grounds and reduces<br />
their numbers. Even water put out<br />
for pets, poultry, native birds and<br />
bees should be replenished daily to<br />
prevent mosquitoes breeding in it.<br />
Around 60% of our rubbish in landfills can be composted<br />
CompostingHome.com.au<br />
for all you need to know and products that will help you produce compost.<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 43
Earthy Tips | SHORT SHOOTS<br />
10<br />
Top Tips<br />
Clever ideas for your garden<br />
Words Erina Starkey<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
1<br />
Seasoning<br />
for all seasons<br />
Got a profusion of culinary herbs<br />
in the garden — way more than you can<br />
use right now? Dry some and make up an<br />
Italian herb mix you can use all year round.<br />
Here’s a simple formula: equal parts basil,<br />
marjoram and oregano to half parts of<br />
rosemary and thyme. Shake well together,<br />
store in a jar and use in pasta sauces,<br />
soups and casseroles all year round.<br />
Circular logic<br />
When planting a tree, dig a<br />
square hole at least twice the<br />
width of the plant’s rootball. A round<br />
hole will encourage roots to grow in<br />
a restricting circular motion, whereas<br />
a square hole will encourage the roots<br />
to grow outwards, allowing the plant to<br />
tap into nutrients from the surrounding<br />
ground. To give the plant a helping hand,<br />
tease out the roots on all sides before you<br />
pop it in the soil.<br />
Scrunchies save<br />
wildlife<br />
A recent study has found that<br />
putting a colourful hair scrunchie as a<br />
collar on cats will reduce the number of<br />
wildlife they kill by more than half. Most<br />
owners place bells on their cats, but this<br />
isn’t always effective as cats can learn to<br />
move in a way that doesn’t disturb the bell.<br />
Bright colours are very noticeable to birds<br />
and the colourful scrunchie allows cats to<br />
be spotted further away, giving birds more<br />
time to escape.<br />
4<br />
5<br />
Home healing<br />
It’s always handy to have a pot<br />
of aloe vera growing in the<br />
garden to serve as a healing and soothing<br />
balm for sunburn, insect bites, stings<br />
and skin irritations. To apply, simply slice<br />
open a lower leaf, squeeze out the gel<br />
and rub onto the affected area. The<br />
slightly curved leaves at the base of the<br />
plant are the most mature and potent,<br />
which means they have the highest<br />
nutritional content and therapeutic value.<br />
Partially used leaves can be wrapped<br />
tightly in plastic wrap or foil and stored<br />
in the fridge for three to four days, or in the<br />
freezer indefinitely.<br />
A cool idea<br />
Ice cubes can make a fantastic<br />
slow-release watering system<br />
to help minimise run-off. Pop a few ice<br />
cubes in your outdoor hanging plants and<br />
the slowly melting ice will give the plant<br />
plenty of time to absorb the water it needs<br />
without it draining out the bottom of the<br />
pot and out of the drainage holes. The<br />
melting ice will warm to room temperature<br />
by the time it reaches the roots, so it won’t<br />
shock the plant.<br />
3<br />
6<br />
7<br />
Keep it coming<br />
By sowing a new row of seeds every<br />
two to three weeks you can stagger<br />
your crops and create a more manageable<br />
flow of produce. This ensures you have a<br />
continuous supply of food without gluts.<br />
Successional sowing works particularly well<br />
for fast-growing fruit and vegetables — in<br />
particular, those that can’t be stored longterm<br />
like lettuce, radish, spinach and broccoli.<br />
Win the war<br />
on weeds<br />
Tackle weeds as they crop up<br />
rather than put it off. The longer you wait<br />
the more opportunity they have to seed<br />
and multiply and the harder they will be to<br />
4<br />
Shutterstock, Sabrina Mellare<br />
44 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Earthy Tips | SHORT SHOOTS<br />
remove. For particularly stubborn weeds you<br />
can use ingredients from the pantry to help<br />
you out. Try pouring boiling water directly<br />
onto the weed or spraying a bad patch with<br />
white vinegar. Sprinkling salt granules works<br />
well on pathways when you want to remove<br />
all the vegetation from between cracks and<br />
crevices, as long as you don’t have saltwater<br />
running off into the garden or lawn.<br />
8<br />
9<br />
Hot pot<br />
Pot plants can get extremely<br />
hot in the summertime, which<br />
can lead to root damage and death. To<br />
keep your plants cool, top dress them in<br />
mulch and move them out of the sun in the<br />
middle of the day. Plastic and terracotta<br />
pots retain the most heat whereas thick or<br />
glazed ceramic and concrete pots will keep<br />
plants cool, healthy and less stressed.<br />
Pottery class<br />
Gypsum can be used to turn clay<br />
soil into fine, easily worked particles<br />
suitable for cultivation. However, not all clay<br />
soils respond well to gypsum. To test whether<br />
yours does, drop a clot of the soil in a glass of<br />
rainwater and observe the glass over the next<br />
24 hours. If the soil disperses into the water<br />
slowly and turns into a cloudy haze, it is sodic<br />
and will benefit from the addition of gypsum.<br />
If it does nothing, adding gypsum would be<br />
of no value.<br />
10<br />
Aussies vs<br />
mozzies<br />
Summer may be breeding season<br />
for mosquitoes but that doesn’t mean<br />
you need to let these bloodsuckers take<br />
over your backyard. To prevent breeding,<br />
ensure you don’t have stagnant water<br />
congregating in buckets, car tyres, empty<br />
pots or birdbaths. Keep goldfish in your<br />
garden pond to eat mosquito larvae<br />
and make sure children’s play pools are<br />
regularly emptied. Avoid store-bought<br />
insect repellent, which contains a host of<br />
harmful chemicals. Instead, cover up with<br />
long sleeves in the evening, rub lavender,<br />
tea-tree or eucalyptus oil into your skin,<br />
light citronella candles and plant tulsi, mint,<br />
marigold, lemon and neem around your<br />
outdoor entertaining area to help create a<br />
mosquito-free zone.<br />
8<br />
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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 45
WEEKEND GARDENING | Kids in the garden<br />
Flowers for picking are a must in any garden<br />
46 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Kids in the garden | WEEKEND GARDENING<br />
NATURE<br />
AND NURTURE<br />
There’s no better time than school holidays to turn<br />
your garden into a nature playground for the kids<br />
Words & photos Claire Bickle<br />
I<br />
strongly believe that in any child’s<br />
life, time spent the garden is<br />
an important stepping stone to<br />
understanding the greater picture<br />
of the natural world around them.<br />
Our children are the next in line to be<br />
the caretakers of this amazing, beautiful,<br />
fragile planet we call home. Now, more than<br />
ever, there are too many distractions and<br />
entertainments that don’t involve nature at<br />
all. We are seeing children parked in front<br />
of screens for hours on end, resulting in<br />
considerable health, mental and weight issues.<br />
Nature Deficit Disorder is becoming a thing.<br />
And what of the health issues of the<br />
planet? If the next generation has no<br />
connection to it, how and why will they care?<br />
But enough doom and gloom. If you’re<br />
reading this magazine you’re on a good path.<br />
Now it’s time to share that passion with your<br />
children, your grandchildren, the next-door<br />
neighbour’s children, even possibly your local<br />
school, daycare centre or community garden.<br />
Dandelion days ... finding<br />
beauty in the simplest things<br />
Creating a successful mix of garden and nature<br />
will ensure that your children will grow up and<br />
look back on their childhood with fond memories of<br />
the gardens and outdoor areas they played in.<br />
A lovely little ladybeetle<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 47
WEEKEND GARDENING | Kids in the garden<br />
There is so much you can incorporate into even the smallest of backyards —<br />
even courtyards and balconies — that will capture the imagination of<br />
a child and prick their curiosity, all the while nurturing a love of the<br />
environment and everything in it.<br />
The edible garden, along with the natural<br />
environment, is entwined with play — at<br />
the end of the day, there are no lines or<br />
boundaries between them. The edges are<br />
blurred and in the eyes of children it’s all fun!<br />
Creating a successful mix of garden and<br />
nature will ensure that your children will grow<br />
up and look back on their childhoods with<br />
fond memories of the gardens and outdoor<br />
areas they played in.<br />
Kids’ growing<br />
project: eggheads<br />
Here’s an easy growing project that<br />
even kids with no garden can try: cress<br />
eggheads. Grow your cute eggheads some<br />
hair, which you can then cut and sprinkle<br />
on your salads or sandwiches.<br />
Materials<br />
Empty, rinsed eggshells (just cut off<br />
the very top to allow growing space)<br />
Craft eyes (optional)<br />
Cotton wool<br />
Watercress seeds (kale, alfalfa, radish<br />
or mustard seeds can also be used)<br />
Textas or paint<br />
Egg carton or egg cups to stand<br />
eggheads in<br />
Method<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Draw faces on your eggshells and glue<br />
on googly eyes if using.<br />
2. Put cotton wool inside empty<br />
eggshells and dampen with water.<br />
3. Sprinkle seeds over cotton wool.<br />
4. Place eggheads in a sunny spot, like<br />
a windowsill and give more water as<br />
needed — don’t let them dry out but<br />
not too wet, either.<br />
5. In a few days they’ll be sprouting hair.<br />
Creating childfriendly<br />
habitat<br />
We’ve talked about the precious gift of<br />
observing nature and the lifelong skill of<br />
learning to grow edible plants, but we all<br />
know what children love to do best, and that<br />
is PLAY. And, as we also know, play is an<br />
integral part of learning.<br />
Last issue we looked at topics such<br />
as growing edible food plants from seed<br />
and the benefits that come with children<br />
understanding where their food comes from.<br />
When starting a new garden or<br />
redesigning an existing one, creating<br />
areas for children to express themselves<br />
through play is vital to their creativity and<br />
development, both physically and socially,<br />
whatever their cultural background or age.<br />
You don’t need to spend a fortune on<br />
the latest play equipment and gadgets<br />
for children to enable them to have fun.<br />
No matter what their circumstances and<br />
environment, they will play.<br />
So, when designing a garden with children<br />
in mind, here are a few ideas to incorporate<br />
into an existing garden or to keep in mind<br />
when starting a brand-new one. Even if there<br />
is no garden at all, some of these creative<br />
ideas can still be put into action.<br />
Nature’s playground<br />
Trees, fruiting plants, the edible patch,<br />
recycling, nature watch locations, winding<br />
pathways, stepping stones, ponds, flower<br />
gardens, scented plants and edibles ... these<br />
are just the tip of the iceberg.<br />
There is so much you can incorporate into<br />
even the smallest of backyards — including<br />
courtyards and balconies — that will capture<br />
the imagination of a child and prick their<br />
curiosity, all the while nurturing a love of the<br />
environment and everything in it.<br />
Water: Ponds, pot ponds and birdbaths. Of<br />
course, safety comes first when it comes to<br />
bodies of water and small children, so be<br />
sure to follow any local council regulations<br />
concerning pools, dams and large ponds.<br />
When our children were little we covered<br />
our pot ponds with chicken wire so there<br />
was no chance of small people falling in.<br />
The benefit of a water feature, whether a<br />
small birdbath or large pond, is it will attract<br />
a huge range of insects, birds, amphibians<br />
and reptiles.<br />
Trees: For shade, for climbing, for playing<br />
and dreaming under, as habitat for birds,<br />
possums, bugs and more. Why not choose<br />
a fruiting tree and then you have an annual<br />
harvest, too? Trees are the most amazing<br />
organisms and we need many more of them.<br />
Choose trees with interesting bark, some<br />
that lose their leaves in winter, bear fruit,<br />
have scented flowers or foliage or even<br />
have an interesting name.<br />
Bugs: Have a bug catcher on hand<br />
so there can be closer inspection and<br />
identification of backyard critters. There<br />
are many great books and websites for<br />
insect identification. Attracting insects to<br />
the garden is as easy as planting a few<br />
seeds of the right plant species to attract<br />
beneficial insects and pollinators.<br />
Bees: Bees should be a part of every<br />
backyard and, if you’re concerned about<br />
stings, why not go for a native bee box?<br />
We have both native and honeybees in<br />
our garden. The plight of the bee cannot<br />
be overstated. With populations in decline<br />
across the globe, it was concerning to read<br />
just the other day that it’s believed there<br />
are still around 750 bee species yet to be<br />
discovered, classified and documented.<br />
Worms: Most children love insects and<br />
creepy-crawlies; some don’t. Nonetheless,<br />
learning about recycling waste through<br />
keeping a worm farm can be great fun and<br />
educational. Keep your lidded worm-food<br />
bucket at the ready for all those scraps. Not<br />
only do the worms dispose of kitchen waste<br />
Harvesting the vegetables<br />
they have grown is always<br />
a rewarding task<br />
48 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Kids in the garden | WEEKEND GARDENING<br />
Curiosity: this is a Case Moth<br />
— did you know what it was?<br />
Snack-attack<br />
plants<br />
Plants that will have the kids snacking<br />
away in the garden, straight off the plants,<br />
include strawberries, cherry tomatoes,<br />
cucumbers, sweet corn, acerola cherries,<br />
passionfruit, blueberries and raspberries.<br />
but they turn it into fertiliser in the form of<br />
castings and worm wee for the garden.<br />
Pets and other creatures: Pets give<br />
children the skills and knowledge to be<br />
responsible for another living thing, whether<br />
it’s a stick insect or a dog.<br />
Another way to bring interactive fun to<br />
the backyard garden space is to keep a few<br />
chickens or ducks, or maybe even some little<br />
living lawn-mowers like guinea pigs. And<br />
don’t forget about silkworms and ant and<br />
worm farms.<br />
Plant it up<br />
Edibles: Growing plants that can be easily<br />
accessed and picked for snacks on the<br />
run can be a fun way to learn about food<br />
and be healthy as well. Our acerola cherry<br />
(Malpighia glabra) is a big hit and a great<br />
substitute for a cherry tree in warmer<br />
climates. The fruit is delicious and contains<br />
up to 36 times more vitamin C than an<br />
orange. Any edibles that are fast growing<br />
and fun to harvest or prepare for meals are<br />
always good choices.<br />
Scented plants: Scent is one of the<br />
strongest triggers of memories. To me,<br />
any garden, whether there are children<br />
frequenting it or not, needs to have a variety<br />
of scented plants, with both fragrant foliage<br />
and perfumed blooms.<br />
Scented foliage, of course, covers<br />
a large number of the herbs we know<br />
as well as great Aussie species like<br />
lemon-scented myrtle (Backhousia<br />
citriodora) and cinnamon myrtle<br />
(Backhousia myrtifolia). Besides the<br />
common herbs, top choices are scented<br />
geraniums, lavender, old-fashioned roses,<br />
freesias, gardenias, jasmine, brunfelsia,<br />
frangipani, wisteria, port wine magnolia —<br />
the list could be endless.<br />
Keeping the<br />
dream alive<br />
In an increasingly busy world with both<br />
parents working, a plethora of electronic<br />
devices, TV and other gadgets, children need<br />
more encouragement to play outside. Trying<br />
to find that elusive spare time to spend<br />
together as a family — preferably outdoors —<br />
is vital. So create your adventure playground<br />
today with a mix of natural environments for<br />
nature watch, a vegetable patch, a sensual<br />
garden with plants for scent and touch and<br />
maybe a couple of chickens and a bit of<br />
space to run around and dream in.<br />
Hopefully, you have been inspired to get<br />
the kids out into the garden to become the<br />
next generation of gardeners, naturalists,<br />
entomologists and environmentalists — or<br />
just lovers of the great outdoors.<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 49
GARDENING CHALLENGE | Growing truffles<br />
Truffles: worth the trouble<br />
Australia’s burgeoning truffle industry is making home gardeners<br />
curious about growing the fungus in their backyards<br />
Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
Interested in eating truffles? No, not the chocolate type, but those<br />
curious, black, richly scented fungi that can cost a fortune. A truffle is<br />
an edible ascomycete fungus. The edible part is found underground<br />
where it grows like a tuber. The name “truffle” literally means lump or<br />
tuber, which is also the fungus’s botanic name: Tuber melanosporum.<br />
Truffles are very expensive to buy, strongly flavoured and<br />
used sparingly when added to dishes such as omelettes, pasta<br />
or pizza, or infused into oils.<br />
Origin of truffles<br />
Edible truffles are native to Europe, particularly Spain, France and Italy,<br />
but are now grown around the world. Truffles form a close relationship<br />
with the roots of certain trees — including birch, oak, hazelnut and<br />
pine — and grow naturally in forests.<br />
The relationship is a two-way process. The tree provides the fungus<br />
with sugars while truffles appear to help the roots absorb nutrients.<br />
As well as growing black truffles, Australian farmers are also<br />
experimenting with other species, including the white truffle<br />
and the summer truffle, which matures later than black truffles<br />
and extends the truffle season.<br />
Truffles in Australia<br />
In Australia, truffles are grown commercially, farmed in tree plantations<br />
known as trufferies. To get started, the truffle fungus is inoculated<br />
into the roots of host trees and the young trees are then planted.<br />
Favoured trees for black truffle production are oaks — particularly<br />
holm oak and English oak — and hazelnuts. Stone pines are<br />
preferred for white truffles.<br />
Truffle farming is a relatively new industry for Australia. The<br />
first black truffle was produced in north-west Tasmania near<br />
Deloraine in 1999. Today there are an estimated 200–300<br />
commercial truffle growers spread across the south of Western<br />
Australia and South Australia as well as in parts of northern<br />
50 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Growing truffles | GARDENING CHALLENGE<br />
Tasmania, Victoria, the ACT, NSW and Queensland. The largest<br />
production region is around Manjimup in WA, which has an ideal<br />
climate for truffle production.<br />
Truffle pioneer and grower Tim Terry from Truffle Australis in<br />
Tasmania recommends areas in Australia within 28–43 degrees of<br />
latitude with cool to cold winters, mild summers and reliable water.<br />
Production cycle<br />
Truffles take years to become productive. They thrive in well-drained<br />
soils that are high in calcium or with added lime in areas with good<br />
rainfall or access to irrigation. The black truffle is harvested in<br />
autumn and early winter, while the summer truffle is harvested<br />
later in the year.<br />
Trees impregnated with fungal spore can take four years or<br />
more to produce truffles. For commercial growers it can be a<br />
further two to four years before truffles appear in commercial<br />
quantities. As the tree grows and the truffle spore multiplies,<br />
harvests increase.<br />
According to Fred Harden, communications manager with the<br />
Australian Truffle Growers Association, the harvest ranges from<br />
truffles that weigh just a few grams to the production of several<br />
kilograms from around a single tree.<br />
Truffles can sell for between $1500 and $2000 a kilogram<br />
If nothing else, you’ll get a nice<br />
tree and maybe some hazelnuts<br />
and currently retail for around $2.60 to $3.40 per gram.<br />
Australia’s truffle harvest has been growing steadily since<br />
the 1990s with 8–10 tonnes now produced annually, putting<br />
Australia at number four in world truffle production. Production<br />
is forecast to grow as more trufferies reach commercial<br />
production levels.<br />
“This level of production more than meets current local<br />
demand, meaning truffles are also exported,” says Fred Hardin.<br />
Black truffles<br />
Sifting for buried treasure<br />
Shutterstock<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 51
GARDENING CHALLENGE | Growing truffles<br />
White truffles<br />
Fresh Australian truffles reach the lucrative European markets<br />
when local produce is unavailable, which makes our truffles<br />
highly desirable.<br />
As well as being slow to produce, truffles need many months<br />
to develop and ripen. The part that’s eaten begins to grow in<br />
spring, developing from a tiny hollow cup into a dark warty<br />
lump, which becomes black with white veins. They grow in the<br />
soil, usually at a depth of about 15cm but sometimes more than<br />
30cm deep.<br />
Truffles have a rich, earthy fungus smell, which helps in<br />
locating them beneath the soil surface when they are ready to<br />
harvest. Pigs traditionally feasted on truffles growing wild in<br />
forests and were used to find wild truffles. Today, specially trained<br />
dogs are used to find truffles in commercial truffle farms.<br />
Backyard truffles<br />
Truffle growing ranges from large plantings on farms to smaller<br />
plantings on hobby farms. And, yes, even home growers are starting<br />
to give it a go. Trees inoculated with truffle spore are available<br />
occasionally at garden centres and in the plant section of large<br />
hardware outlets.<br />
Fred Hardin from the Australian Truffle Growers Association<br />
says that right now truffles aren’t likely to be a successful part of<br />
a productive suburban backyard but adds that things may change.<br />
“Truffles have very particular growing needs, including needing the<br />
right soil pH, which means adding lots of lime to most Australian soils<br />
and pruning the tree to encourage root growth, and they take time,” Fred<br />
explains. “But that doesn’t mean things won’t change in the future.”<br />
Things are also changing for both commercial producers and hobbyists<br />
considering truffle growing as there is now the possibility of buying and<br />
planting certified trees, making production less of a hit-and-miss affair.<br />
“There is a certification system operating in Australia<br />
to certify that trees inoculated with truffle spores<br />
are going to produce truffles,” Fred says. “There are<br />
two Australian growers offering certified trees to<br />
commercial growers and we hope others will follow.”<br />
Marcos Morcillo, a truffle grower in Spain,<br />
has just published Truffle Farming Today,<br />
a comprehensive guide to truffle growing<br />
with examples and experiences from<br />
around the world. In his book, Marcos is<br />
positive about the future of truffle farming<br />
as more plantations are planted, more scientific<br />
research is carried out and more is known about<br />
these curious edible fungi. He even suggests that<br />
one day there may be the possibility of a bonsai truffle<br />
tree for the backyard. Truffle lovers stand by!<br />
Is truffle growing for you?<br />
Still keen, despite the difficulties? If you live in a suitable climate with<br />
cold winters and mild summers, have good rich, well-drained soil<br />
and are up for the challenge of raising truffles in your own backyard<br />
trufferie, look for inoculated trees that are certified, or purchase from a<br />
local commercial grower who retails to the public.<br />
When preparing the ground for planting it’s important to<br />
amend your planting soil to raise the pH to around 8 by adding<br />
lime. Give the trees plenty of space to grow as well as extra care to<br />
encourage each tree to form a strong and vigorous root system.<br />
This care includes regular watering, especially if summers<br />
are dry. Then be patient, as truffles take many years to form.<br />
If all else fails, you’ll have grown some shady trees in your<br />
garden and made the world a better place!<br />
English oak<br />
More<br />
information<br />
For further information on truffle<br />
growing, contact the Australian<br />
Truffle Growers Association at<br />
trufflegrowers.com.au. For more<br />
on Marcos Morcillo’s trufflegrowing<br />
advice or to buy his<br />
book, see his website micofora.<br />
com or follow his blog at<br />
trufflefarming.wordpress.com.<br />
Shutterstock<br />
52 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
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PLANT HEALTH | Disease distress<br />
Mango anthracnose<br />
GARDEN FIRST AID<br />
In addition to insect attack, summer humidity can bring<br />
with it a range of fungal diseases that will go straight for your<br />
precious plants if you’re not vigilant and proactive<br />
Words & photos Claire Bickle<br />
If it’s not the insect population or<br />
four-legged marsupials, it’s some plant<br />
disease or virus attacking your prize<br />
edibles and floral delights in the garden.<br />
What are the key problems we have to<br />
deal with at this time, and how do we go<br />
about eradicating them — or preventing<br />
them taking hold in the first place — without<br />
using nasty chemicals?<br />
Here are some of the commonest fungal<br />
diseases that home gardeners often come<br />
across in their patch.<br />
Anthracnose<br />
This disease is a serious problem, requiring<br />
both pre- and post-harvest sprays. The main<br />
species the home gardener has to worry<br />
about is Colletotrichum spp. It will affect<br />
mangoes, avocadoes, tomatoes, passionfruit,<br />
capsicums, chillies, bananas and a large<br />
range of tropical crops.<br />
Symptoms include a variety of black spots:<br />
recessed black spots on fruit to raised small<br />
clusters of spots, depending on plant species<br />
affected, as well as black discolouration on<br />
flower buds and spikes, black spots and<br />
yellowing on leaves. Flowers and buds<br />
can drop, meaning poor fruit set and<br />
limited crops.<br />
The spores overwinter in the soil and<br />
anthracnose can even be seed-borne. It<br />
spreads via water droplets and is far worse<br />
in warm and/or cool humid conditions.<br />
During dry weather, anthracnose is virtually<br />
non-existent.<br />
Treatment<br />
Apply a copper spray just before<br />
flowering and during the early stages<br />
of fruit set.<br />
Shutterstock<br />
54 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Remove any infected fruit and foliage.<br />
Remove any dead wood and twigs, and<br />
burn if possible.<br />
Practise crop rotation with annuals.<br />
Avoid overhead irrigation and improve<br />
air circulation.<br />
Choose disease-resistant varieties.<br />
Black spot (roses &<br />
pawpaws)<br />
Black spot is a broadly used common name for<br />
a variety of fungal issues that — you guessed<br />
it — exhibit black spots on foliage, flowers and<br />
fruit. Roses are renowned for black spot fungal<br />
issues and, even though not often eaten (well,<br />
the flowers and hips can be), they are such an<br />
important and widely grown flowering plant<br />
in gardens across the world that people are<br />
always looking for organic options when it<br />
comes to controlling pests and diseases.<br />
Black spot can be more prevalent on roses<br />
in warm, humid subtropical areas. The signs,<br />
of course, are the tell-tale black spots and<br />
yellowing of foliage, which can then drop off.<br />
It can even attack the stems of the rose and<br />
cause dieback. With all this going on, the<br />
plant can become weakened, prone to other<br />
diseases and insect attack, and produce<br />
fewer and smaller blooms.<br />
As for pawpaws, it’s the onset of cooler<br />
winter weather that can bring on a nasty case<br />
of black spot.<br />
Control<br />
Choose varieties that are diseaseresistant<br />
if possible; in warmer climates<br />
some of the old-fashioned teas and China<br />
roses do remarkably well.<br />
Spray with an organic fungicide such as<br />
Eco-fungicide to not only kill existing<br />
spores but also change the pH on the<br />
surface of the leaves and plant stems,<br />
making them more alkaline and less<br />
habitable for fungal diseases. Use a small<br />
of amount of Eco-oil mixed into the spray<br />
to help it stick to the plant.<br />
Copper and sulphur-based sprays can<br />
also be used.<br />
Remove any disease-affected leaves and<br />
throw them into the bin.<br />
Make sure you are giving your plants the<br />
right growing conditions with the required<br />
hours of sun a day and good airflow. This<br />
will help prevent fungal problems.<br />
Avoid watering the foliage, especially in<br />
the late afternoon.<br />
Keep plants healthy and less vulnerable<br />
to disease attack by feeding with<br />
recommended organic fertilisers<br />
throughout the growing seasons and<br />
when recommended.<br />
Applications of seaweed will also be<br />
of benefit and act as a preventive,<br />
strengthening the cell walls of the<br />
plant and encouraging stronger,<br />
healthier growth.<br />
Consider spraying the ground around the<br />
plant with fungicide as well, to catch any<br />
spores lingering there.<br />
Pawpaws lacking in potassium,<br />
magnesium or phosphorus can be more<br />
susceptible. Add potassium (sulphate of<br />
potash), phosphorus (rock dust minerals<br />
and/or magnesium (Epsom salts) to the<br />
feeding regime to ensure no deficiencies.<br />
Disease distress | PLANT HEALTH<br />
Peach leaf curl<br />
This fungal disease affects peaches<br />
and nectarines in cooler climates.<br />
Symptoms include puckering of foliage<br />
and sometimes even quite severe<br />
distortion with a pinkish blotching or<br />
discolouration. The leaves will usually<br />
drop prematurely. This, in turn, affects<br />
fruit production.<br />
Leaf curl remains secretly dormant<br />
on these deciduous fruit trees, appearing<br />
and infecting foliage as soon as the first<br />
shoots appear.<br />
Control<br />
There is no effective treatment for it once<br />
this disease has a foothold, so prevention<br />
is the key.<br />
Spray trees with a copper-based spray<br />
just as the growth buds start to swell.<br />
Be sure to spray the branches and<br />
trunk as well, to catch any spores<br />
that have been resting dormant<br />
over winter.<br />
Trees that are infected need all<br />
the help they can get, so keep up<br />
the applications of liquid seaweed<br />
as a foliar spray. Regular watering<br />
and the application of organic fertilisers<br />
will help the tree to survive through<br />
the growing season.<br />
After leaf drop in winter, gather up all<br />
the old foliage and follow the above<br />
directions in late winter and again<br />
early spring.<br />
Applications of gypsum for added<br />
calcium will also strengthen the plant<br />
cell walls against disease attack.<br />
Black spot on roses<br />
Peach leaf curl needs<br />
preventive treatment<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 55
PLANT HEALTH | Disease distress<br />
Sooty mould on an orange — a<br />
telltale sign that there are other<br />
pests infesting the tree, more<br />
than likely scale<br />
Make sure you are giving your plants the<br />
right growing conditions with the required<br />
hours of sun a day and good airflow. This<br />
will help prevent fungal problems.<br />
Powdery mildew on silver beet<br />
Rust spores starting on the<br />
underside of frangipani leaf<br />
Powdery mildew<br />
This fungal disease attacks a wide range<br />
of plants and spreads like a white or grey<br />
powdery mould on the leaves, stems and<br />
flower buds.<br />
Powdery mildew is an aggressive fungal<br />
disease that can easily kill smaller plants and<br />
set back larger specimens as it affects the<br />
plants’ ability to photosynthesise.<br />
Plants commonly attacked include<br />
zucchini, squash, mustard, mint, roses,<br />
hydrangeas, peas, gerberas and more. It can<br />
appear because the plant species is being<br />
grown in too much shade, there’s insufficient<br />
airflow, the weather is cool and humid,<br />
especially at night, or the plant is stressed<br />
due to being grown out of season or having<br />
inadequate nutrition and/or water.<br />
Control<br />
Spray plants as soon as possible with a<br />
fungicide such as Eco-fungicide. This<br />
fungicide is curative as well as preventive.<br />
Spray susceptible plants with a solution<br />
of one part full-cream milk to nine parts<br />
water — particularly effective before<br />
mildew appears.<br />
Wettable sulphur can also be used under<br />
organic certification.<br />
Foliar sprays and in-ground applications<br />
of seaweed will strengthen plants’ cell<br />
walls and make them more resistant to<br />
mildew attack.<br />
Be sure your plants have good airflow.<br />
Don’t water overhead, especially at the<br />
end of the day.<br />
56 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Disease distress | PLANT HEALTH<br />
Grow plants in the right season.<br />
Keep plants well watered and fed —<br />
stress on the plants invites trouble.<br />
*** Watch for the yellow-and-black<br />
fungus-eating lady beetles, Psyllobora<br />
vigintimaculata. Believe it or not, they actually<br />
eat the mildew but, even though<br />
they do a good job, these little guys are<br />
never quite enough to get on top of a<br />
full-blown outbreak.<br />
Rust<br />
Once again, rust is a broad term used for a<br />
group of fungal species that attack a large<br />
variety of plants.<br />
The common symptoms of rust are the<br />
circular fruiting bodies or spores, which will<br />
generally appear on the undersides of the<br />
leaves and can be yellow to orange to brown<br />
in colour. The tops of the leaves will often<br />
have a yellow mottled appearance and in a<br />
severe enough case of rust the foliage may<br />
even drop off.<br />
Beans, geraniums, snapdragons, orchids ...<br />
there’s a long list of plants that rust can affect.<br />
Control<br />
<strong>Organic</strong> registered fungicides are worth a<br />
go. Remember to spray the undersides of<br />
the leaves.<br />
Watering early in the morning rather than<br />
late in the evening gives plants time to<br />
dry out before nightfall. This can help<br />
reduce the incidence of fungal problems.<br />
Make sure any susceptible plants have<br />
good airflow.<br />
Give regular feeding and applications of<br />
seaweed to strengthen cell walls of plants.<br />
Sooty mould<br />
This disease appears on plants as a black<br />
soot-like mould covering all parts of the plant,<br />
from leaves to fruit and stems. A multitude of<br />
plants are susceptible to sooty mould issues,<br />
from citrus to gardenias.<br />
The reason you have black sooty mould<br />
on your plants is a little tricky because the<br />
mould doesn’t just show up on its own;<br />
there’s also a secondary infection from the<br />
presence of a sap-sucking insect. The insect<br />
attacking your plant is literally sucking the<br />
goodness out of it, then excreting a sticky<br />
honeydew substance all over the plant. It’s on<br />
the excretion that the sooty mould grows.<br />
And as long as the particular sap sucker<br />
is in place, the sooty mould will keep being<br />
a problem. Indentify the sap-sucking insect<br />
and remove it to break the cycle and rid your<br />
plants of sooty mould.<br />
Control<br />
Here, the insect needs to be identified and<br />
then the appropriate organic control used or<br />
preventive measure put in place.<br />
A lot of sap-sucking insects such as<br />
scale, aphids, thrips and mealybugs can<br />
be controlled with Eco-oil or other oilbased<br />
plant sprays.<br />
Eco-neem is registered to control a variety<br />
of sucking insects on ornamental plants.<br />
Keep your plants healthy with adequate<br />
feeding and water to make them less<br />
prone to insect attack in the first place.<br />
Remove the sooty mould once the<br />
insect infestation has been dealt<br />
with. This is relatively easy as a lot<br />
of the sooty mould will flake off. Any<br />
residual mould can be hosed off. A bit<br />
of warm soapy water before hosing<br />
will help.<br />
It hardly needs reiterating that prevention is<br />
always better than cure. The best prevention<br />
includes seasonal growing, good soil<br />
preparation, regular watering and mulching,<br />
fertilising for optimal growth and applications<br />
of helpful substances like seaweed and<br />
gypsum for strengthening cell walls and<br />
general good health.<br />
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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 57
SAFER SOLUTIONS | Dipel<br />
Rose budworm damage<br />
Clever soil bacteria<br />
Bacillus thuringiensis<br />
While organic gardeners prefer to garden as naturally as<br />
possible, sometimes a little help may be needed<br />
Words & photos Angie Thomas<br />
Like our bodies, soil contains billions<br />
of bacteria. In fact, they are crucially<br />
important to the health of soil<br />
as they’re involved in important<br />
processes such as breaking down organic<br />
matter and converting nitrogen from the<br />
atmosphere into plant-available nitrogen.<br />
One particularly special soil bacterium<br />
is Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally<br />
occurring, aerobic, spore-forming<br />
bacterium that has insecticidal properties.<br />
The history of Bacillus thuringiensis<br />
(Bt) is fascinating. A Japanese biologist<br />
first identified the bacterium in 1901 while<br />
researching the cause of an unknown<br />
silkworm disease. Ten years later in 1911,<br />
a German scientist rediscovered Bacillus<br />
thuringiensis during investigations into a<br />
flour moth disease and, by 1920, farmers<br />
were using Bt as an insecticide.<br />
How does Bt work?<br />
When the Bt bacteria produce spores<br />
they naturally form crystalline proteins<br />
(endotoxins) that affect insects — in<br />
particular, Lepidoptera caterpillars, which<br />
are caterpillars of moths and butterflies.<br />
Bt must be ingested by caterpillars to<br />
be effective. It does not work via contact<br />
action and therefore needs to be applied<br />
when the insects are in their larval stages<br />
and feeding on host plants.<br />
Once ingested the endotoxins paralyse<br />
the cells in the caterpillar’s gut, they stop<br />
feeding and will succumb to starvation or<br />
infection. This usually occurs within a few<br />
hours, though some caterpillars may remain,<br />
inactive, on plant foliage for 3–4 days.<br />
Bt targets particular receptor sites<br />
in the caterpillar and has no effect on<br />
humans as we lack those receptors. Bt<br />
also does not affect beneficial insects,<br />
pets and wildlife. Because it specifically<br />
targets caterpillar pests and is safe<br />
58 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
for both users and the environment, it<br />
provides gardeners with an effective option<br />
for protecting homegrown produce.<br />
B. thuringiensis is available as several<br />
different strains or subspecies, each<br />
having a specific toxicity to particular<br />
types of insects. The Bt most commonly<br />
available to home gardeners is Bacillus<br />
thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki, often known<br />
as Dipel. Home garden products are<br />
usually wettable powders that are mixed<br />
in water and sprayed over foliage.<br />
Bt is not absorbed into plant foliage<br />
and is degraded by UV light, so does<br />
not persist on plants. Bt-based products<br />
usually don’t have a withholding period,<br />
so homegrown produce sprayed with Bt<br />
can be eaten straightaway (rinsing before<br />
eating is always recommended,<br />
of course).<br />
For home gardeners, the most common<br />
caterpillar pests include cabbage white<br />
butterfly, cabbage moth, armyworm,<br />
budworm and loopers.<br />
Bluish-green cabbage white butterfly<br />
caterpillars can devour mountains<br />
of vegetables such as cabbage,<br />
kale, cauliflower and broccoli, leaving<br />
Dipel | SAFER SOLUTIONS<br />
Bt targets particular<br />
receptor sites in the<br />
caterpillar and has no<br />
effect on humans as we<br />
lack those receptors.<br />
Bt also does not affect<br />
beneficial insects, pets<br />
and wildlife.<br />
Cabbage white butterfly caterpillar<br />
feasting on kale<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 59
SAFER SOLUTIONS | Dipel<br />
Green looper caterpillar<br />
nothing but leaf skeletons (and lots of<br />
green droppings!).<br />
Cabbage moth caterpillars are around<br />
1cm long, green to brown coloured and<br />
will curl up if disturbed. Cabbage moth<br />
populations tend to increase during dry<br />
conditions and the caterpillars enjoy<br />
feeding on brassica vegetables as well as<br />
flowers in the brassica family, such as stock.<br />
Armyworm caterpillars are most often<br />
found in lawns, but there are some types<br />
of armyworm that will attack vegetables<br />
like corn, beetroot and tomatoes and<br />
will also eat both flowers and foliage of<br />
ornamental plants. Young armyworm<br />
caterpillars are green and turn brown and<br />
striped as they mature.<br />
Budworm caterpillars (Heliothis)<br />
grow to around 4cm long and can be yellow,<br />
green or brown with white and dark stripes.<br />
Budworms commonly feed on tomatoes and<br />
corn but can also eat through rosebuds,<br />
geraniums and petunias.<br />
Green looper caterpillars, which are<br />
bright green with white stripes, can be<br />
found on roses and other flowers as<br />
well as fruit and vegetables including<br />
silverbeet, lettuce, brassicas, beans,<br />
tomatoes and strawberries.<br />
When there are only a few caterpillars,<br />
you can just pick them off by hand (though<br />
they can be masters of camouflage and<br />
concealment) and also make a juicy meal<br />
for birds. Caterpillars also have some natural<br />
insect enemies, such as parasitic wasps and<br />
flies, predatory shield bugs and assassin<br />
bugs, which can help reduce caterpillar<br />
populations. So it’s good to encourage them<br />
to your garden. The beneficial nematode<br />
Steinernema carpocapsae is a natural<br />
predator of armyworm.<br />
However, when caterpillar numbers are<br />
significant and you want to be able to harvest<br />
some of your much-loved herbs and vegies<br />
rather than just provide a rich source of<br />
caterpillar food, a Bt insecticide provides<br />
an environmentally soft option to keep<br />
caterpillars under control.<br />
There are Bt-based insecticides available<br />
to home gardeners that are certified<br />
organic by Australian Certified <strong>Organic</strong>.<br />
Assassin bugs (Pristhesancus plagipennis)<br />
help to control caterpillars<br />
So organic gardeners can use a naturally<br />
derived, organically certified way to control<br />
caterpillar pests.<br />
When there are only<br />
a few caterpillars, you<br />
can just pick them off by<br />
hand (though they can be<br />
masters of camouflage and<br />
concealment). They also<br />
make a juicy meal for birds.<br />
James Niland CC<br />
60 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
®<br />
Caterpillar<br />
Killer<br />
• Yates ® Nature’s Way ® Caterpillar Killer, also known<br />
as Dipel, will control common chewing insect pests<br />
like caterpillars, budworm and loopers on flowers and<br />
ornamentals, fruit, vegies and herbs.<br />
• Yates Nature’s Way Caterpillar Killer is certified by Australian<br />
Certified <strong>Organic</strong>, so it’s ideal for gardeners wanting to<br />
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L – R:<br />
tomato caterpillar, cabbage white butterfly caterpillar, budworm.<br />
For more gardening advice ph 1300 369 074<br />
or visit www.yates.com.au<br />
Yates Australia, 1 Gow St. Padstow NSW 2211<br />
Yates and Nature’s Way are registered trade marks of DuluxGroup Pty Ltd Australia
THE SHED | Making BIM<br />
The<br />
cultured<br />
garden<br />
Cultivating beneficial<br />
indigenous micro-organisms<br />
(BIM) in your garden<br />
Words Sandra Tuszynska<br />
Naturally occurring microorganisms<br />
promote plant<br />
growth by fixing nitrogen,<br />
decomposing soil organic<br />
matter and transporting plant nutrients. We<br />
can actually harvest and cultivate beneficial<br />
indigenous micro-organisms (BIM), also<br />
known as indigenous micro-organisms (IMO),<br />
and add them to our soil, plants and compost.<br />
Beneficial soil micro-organisms should<br />
be harvested from healthy habitats such<br />
as an abundant, healthy vegetable garden,<br />
an undisturbed forest, a meadow or other<br />
vegetated habitat. Combining the microorganisms<br />
collected from various sites<br />
will increase the strength and benefits<br />
of the inoculant.<br />
62 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Making BIM | THE SHED<br />
Untreated wooden box<br />
Cooked rice<br />
Creating the<br />
growth medium<br />
Materials<br />
A small untreated wooden box,<br />
30cm × 30cm × 10cm deep<br />
Cooked white rice<br />
Paper towels or newspaper, enough<br />
to cover the wooden box<br />
Thick shadecloth large enough<br />
to cover the box<br />
Rubber bands<br />
1cm wire screen large enough to<br />
completely cover the wooden box<br />
A small shovel<br />
Procedure<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Cook enough rice to cover the bottom of<br />
the box. About <strong>1.</strong>5–2 cups of raw rice should<br />
make enough. Use the absorption method<br />
for boiling the rice. This will make sure it’s<br />
aerated and will supply enough oxygen for<br />
the aerobic (requiring air) micro-organisms.<br />
Rice usually increases its volume by 3–4<br />
times when cooked.<br />
2. Place the rice in the box. The thickness<br />
of the rice layer should not be greater than<br />
5–6cm once in the box.<br />
3. Cover the rice with paper towel, clean newspaper<br />
or thick shadecloth, making sure it’s not<br />
touching the rice and is at least 5cm above it.<br />
Place cooked<br />
rice in box<br />
Cover rice but make sure<br />
covering is at least 5cm above<br />
rice and not touching it<br />
Cover with wire<br />
to prevent attack<br />
by animals<br />
4. Cover the box with a wire screen to<br />
prevent animals getting into the rice, then<br />
loosely cover the box with some clear<br />
plastic to prevent rain and dew wetting<br />
the rice.<br />
5. Choose a spot in the shade under a tree,<br />
away from direct sun. Bury the box in at<br />
least 5cm of soil. Cover the box with leaves<br />
and debris collected from the site. Leave<br />
undisturbed for 4–5 days. On average,<br />
colonisation takes 4–5 days below 20°C and<br />
3–4 days above 20°C. (See photo next page.)<br />
6. Check the box for signs of white mould<br />
and leave for longer if sparse.<br />
7. Check the mould/fungal growth again after<br />
2–3 days. The process has been successful<br />
if thick white/yellowish mould is covering<br />
the rice. Coloured colonies of microbial<br />
growth are not as beneficial, so repeat<br />
the process if necessary.<br />
Culturing the<br />
micro-organisms<br />
Materials<br />
Clay or ceramic bowl<br />
Glass jars to fit the rice mixture in<br />
Brown sugar or molasses<br />
Cheesecloth or paper towels<br />
Rubber bands<br />
Scale to weigh the rice (optional)<br />
Procedure<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Once you’ve obtained white mould<br />
growth on the rice, remove from the box<br />
and place the mixture in the bowl, but<br />
first weigh the bowl alone and then with<br />
the mixture in it; the difference will give<br />
you the weight of rice, which is the same<br />
as the weight of sugar needed to feed the<br />
micro-organisms. The rule of thumb is to<br />
use equal parts sugar to equal parts rice.<br />
Thus, a kilogram of rice will require a<br />
kilogram of sugar (1kg rice + 1kg sugar or<br />
molasses). We used molasses.<br />
2. Gently mix the ingredients with clean<br />
hands, making sure not to completely<br />
destroy the fungal mat. You can use gloves<br />
if you prefer. Add a very small amount of<br />
water if the mixture feels quite dry, in the<br />
ratio of 1:500.<br />
3. Transfer this mixture into a glass jar and<br />
cover with cheesecloth or paper towel and<br />
place a rubber band around it. Leave<br />
it for 3–7 days to allow fermentation to<br />
take place.<br />
4. Now it’s ready to use as an inoculant.<br />
Add an equal amount of soil and<br />
incorporate it into the surface soil as a topdressing,<br />
or add it directly to your compost<br />
pile. This inoculant is designed to increase<br />
soil microbial activity and thus enhance<br />
soil health.<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 63
THE SHED | Making BIM<br />
Bury in at least 5cm of<br />
soil in a shady spot and<br />
cover with leaves and<br />
debris from the site<br />
White mycelium has<br />
formed on bark<br />
Creating a liquid<br />
inoculant<br />
You can also create a liquid inoculant<br />
from the fermented mixture that will<br />
last a long time.<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Add 3 parts water (6L for the 2kg of<br />
rice and sugar) to the mixture and leave<br />
for 7 days to allow fermentation to<br />
take place.<br />
2. Strain the liquid into another glass<br />
jar and cover with a paper towel or<br />
cheesecloth and secure with a<br />
rubber band.<br />
3. Fermentation will produce gas bubbles.<br />
When the bubbles stop forming, the<br />
process is complete and you can seal<br />
the jar.<br />
Add molasses (or<br />
brown sugar) and<br />
mix together<br />
4. To strengthen the potency of the<br />
inoculant, combine it with inoculants<br />
from different sites. Adding liquid whey<br />
(lacto- serum) from milk, available from<br />
healthfood shops, in a 1:1 ratio, will further<br />
increase the benefits of the inoculant.<br />
Application on your<br />
garden<br />
Dilute 2 tablespoons in 4L of water<br />
and spray on plants’ leaves, use as<br />
a soil drench or add to compost and<br />
organic fertiliser. This will help to<br />
encourage vogorous plant growth by<br />
increasing nutrient uptake and transport,<br />
at the same time increasing disease<br />
resistance and decomposing compost<br />
more rapidly.<br />
Post<br />
fermentation<br />
Transfer mixture<br />
to a jar<br />
Rice is now<br />
inoculated with<br />
micro-organisms<br />
Cover with<br />
cheesecloth and<br />
leave to ferment<br />
64 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Making BIM | THE SHED<br />
Once femented,<br />
strain to make<br />
liquid inoculant<br />
Final inoculant<br />
For more information<br />
theunconventionalfarmer.com/recipes/bim/ctahr.<br />
hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/BIO-9.pdf.<br />
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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 65
FEATHERED FRIENDS | Bantam ducks<br />
Bubba duckies<br />
If you want the fun of ducks without the volume,<br />
consider the cute miniature breeds<br />
Cute Call<br />
66 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Words Megg Miller<br />
Lots of people adore ducks. They love their daffy behaviour,<br />
comical gait and irrepressible delight in water play. Ducks<br />
are not for everyone, though, especially people living in<br />
densely packed inner cities.<br />
But if you admire their joie de vivre, have snails everywhere in the<br />
garden and are lucky enough to have a leafy area in the backyard,<br />
away from neighbours, then ducks will bring hours of pleasure.<br />
Small is sensible<br />
Like fowls, ducks come in varied sizes and shapes. Bantams have<br />
no large counterpart but miniatures have been bred down from<br />
standard-sized breeds.<br />
Why have a massive Pekin, as impressive as they are, when<br />
you could feed and keep several small bantams or miniatures?<br />
They eat less, require less room and their activity and<br />
athleticism result in fewer leg problems than may trouble<br />
large-bodied ducks.<br />
Small ducks are ideal for time-poor families. Set them up in a<br />
fully enclosed yard with a simple shelter and water facilities and<br />
their demands are minimal.<br />
Available breeds<br />
The cutest bantam is the Australian Call, a very small, very talkative<br />
breed. The females weigh in at 500–900g and a little heavier for<br />
males — just a handful, really. Colour? Pristine white offset with yellow<br />
legs and the bill is beautiful, but other pretty colours are available.<br />
When buying Calls, look for the breed’s distinctive rounded shape,<br />
including a domed head, rounded cheeks and short bill. Think<br />
cuddly. Calls look a little like the kiddies’ yellow bath duck.<br />
Availability is good, too.<br />
Mallards are the most popular bantam duck, probably because<br />
they can be found in numerous attractive colours. They are larger and<br />
longer bodied than Calls; even the bill is noticeably longer. Mallards<br />
have large, well-developed wings, indicating they are excellent<br />
A standard Silver Appleyard shows<br />
the breed’s pretty markings<br />
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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 67
FEATHERED FRIENDS | Bantam ducks<br />
A baby grey Call<br />
flyers. Actually, all small ducks fly well<br />
and you will need to take measures to<br />
restrict flight.<br />
While there’s no shortage of Mallards or<br />
breeders, be aware that in some states it’s<br />
mandatory for birds to be pinioned to prevent<br />
escape and breeding with wild ducks.<br />
The Black East Indian, an elegant<br />
little black-plumaged duck with a<br />
lustrous green sheen to its feathers, is<br />
A one-day-old white Call<br />
exceedingly rare, so it’s unlikely one will<br />
be available. The female can produce<br />
dark-grey-shelled eggs at the start<br />
of each laying season, a surprise for<br />
unsuspecting owners. Sadly, it’s on the<br />
rare breeds list.<br />
A particularly eyecatching miniature is<br />
the Silver Appleyard and, if you have the<br />
room to set up breeding, the excess stock<br />
could be handy for home consumption.<br />
With anticipated weights of <strong>1.</strong>2–<strong>1.</strong>4kg for<br />
drakes and <strong>1.</strong>1–<strong>1.</strong>3kg for ducks, the breed<br />
is suitable for eggs and meat.<br />
Miniature Silver Appleyard ducks are<br />
silver-white with strategically placed<br />
fawn streaks and flecks and a distinctive<br />
iridescent blue band on the wings. Drakes<br />
are traditionally marked with the full<br />
white neck ring, areas of green-black on<br />
the head and neck, and a claret-coloured<br />
body. Dapper is the description for this breed.<br />
Disadvantages<br />
Do not head off to the poultry auction<br />
until you’ve read this section. Like the<br />
Scouts, you must be prepared.<br />
Female ducks are notorious for their<br />
quacking (the drakes, by contrast, have<br />
weak voices), and Calls, in particular, are<br />
very chatty. The noise of quacking may<br />
irritate immediate neighbours, especially<br />
if the birds are penned relatively close to<br />
outdoor living areas.<br />
The messy conditions of duck pens will<br />
attract flies — again, another source of<br />
complaint from neighbours — and there’s<br />
not a lot that can be done with the ducks<br />
because they instinctively fossick and<br />
dabble wherever there is water.<br />
Flying is a natural instinct shared by<br />
ducks with a small stature. They must<br />
Coloured Calls<br />
Small ducks are ideal for<br />
time-poor families. Set them<br />
up in a fully enclosed yard<br />
with a simple shelter and<br />
water facilities and their<br />
demands are minimal.<br />
Shutterstock<br />
68 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Bantam ducks | FEATHERED FRIENDS<br />
either be pinioned (part of one wing is<br />
surgically modified to prevent flying),<br />
have the flight feathers on one wing<br />
trimmed regularly to unbalance flight or<br />
be kept in a fully covered pen.<br />
Sexual excess can be an issue. Some<br />
drakes are very sexually active and may<br />
hound ducks incessantly. Extra ducks<br />
may lessen the stress, but if space won’t<br />
allow you to expand numbers then a pen<br />
of females only will be a sounder choice.<br />
Remember, too, that mini ducks will<br />
produce small eggs but they are likely to<br />
be larger than most bantam hen eggs.<br />
Housing needs<br />
Predators as well as the likelihood of<br />
escape and flight have to be considered<br />
when setting up. Allow around 2m² per<br />
two birds when designing the pen, more<br />
room if possible.<br />
A 2m-high mesh-covered yard will<br />
allow most people easy movement in the<br />
pen. You might consider running a sheet<br />
of Colorbond horizontally at ground level<br />
to separate ducks from inquisitive dogs and<br />
kiddies and allow birds a sense of security.<br />
Sand or gravel on the base of the pen<br />
(15cm) will facilitate drainage; you cannot<br />
imagine the happy mess a couple of busy<br />
ducks can create if drainage is poor.<br />
Ducks need to have<br />
water deep enough to<br />
immerse their heads<br />
and maintain eye<br />
health and, while<br />
they enjoy swimming,<br />
a pond is not<br />
obligatory.<br />
An open-fronted shelter will protect<br />
from weather extremes and provide<br />
corners for ducks to lay in. Woodchips on<br />
the floor covered with straw in spring will<br />
offer a dry and comfy base for sleeping<br />
and laying.<br />
Ducks need to have water deep<br />
enough to immerse their heads and<br />
maintain eye health and, while they<br />
enjoy swimming, a pond is not obligatory.<br />
However, most people settle for a clam<br />
shell or similar shallow container that can<br />
be emptied easily.<br />
Elevating the “pond” so it sits on a<br />
slatted platform or a low, strong mesh<br />
cage reduces the amount of dirt and<br />
organic matter carried into the water.<br />
Whatever container is chosen, it should<br />
be stable and unable to flip over and<br />
suffocate the birds. It must be shallow<br />
enough for easy access, too. A ramp in<br />
the pond will allow exiting if the container<br />
is deep. Never ever use an old bath; it not<br />
only uses too much water but is difficult<br />
for ducks to get out of.<br />
It makes sense to locate the duck<br />
enclosure in a leafy part of the backyard.<br />
The ducks will keep cooler in hot weather<br />
while greenery will absorb noise and filter<br />
any odours.<br />
Rewarding your<br />
ducks<br />
Collect snails at night and offer the ducks<br />
a gastropod treat — they will devour<br />
them. You may be able to hang greens<br />
for the birds to nibble on; they will<br />
trample leaves and weeds if dumped<br />
on the ground.<br />
You’ll find this species hardy and long<br />
living and for just a little mixed grain and<br />
pellets daily you’ll be rewarded with<br />
fresh eggs. Set up the deckchairs and<br />
enjoy summer evenings watching the<br />
ducks’ antics.<br />
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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 69
GARDEN TO TABLE | Four Seasonal Edibles<br />
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74 Passionfruit<br />
Passionfruit & Peach Dairy-Free Cheesecake<br />
78 Parsnip<br />
Parma Ham & Pea Salad with Parsnip Chips<br />
82 Beetroot<br />
Beetroot & Chocolate Cake<br />
86 & 88 Sweet corn<br />
Corn & Chive Fritters with Avocado Salsa<br />
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70 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
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GROWING | Passionfruit<br />
Passionfruit<br />
Passiflora edulis<br />
Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
I’ve just been standing with a neighbour, Naomi, looking<br />
at the remains of her passionfruit vine. It’s a sad sight.<br />
What’s left is the unproductive, weedy understock. The<br />
productive vine succumbed to a cold snap, but the coldand<br />
disease-tolerant understock, Passiflora caerulea, can’t<br />
be halted. She has tried tearing it down and digging it out.<br />
The latest weapon is the family’s pet lamb, currently feeding<br />
around where the passionfruit understock is growing.<br />
Before the passionfruit died back, it produced buckets of<br />
passionfruit, so Naomi is keen to plant another vine, but she<br />
says it won’t be a grafted vine.<br />
Grafted vs own roots<br />
Passionfruit are usually sold as grafted plants. Grafting makes<br />
the vine more tolerant of poor soil and climate conditions<br />
but, as Naomi discovered, the graft can become a huge weed<br />
problem. As well as surviving when the main plant has died,<br />
suckering while the edible vine is still alive is also a problem.<br />
Although the suckering of varieties grafted on to<br />
P. caerulea is a potential garden problem, there are rootstocks<br />
that don’t sucker. Commercial vines are usually grafted onto<br />
P. edulis f. flavicarpa, a rootstock developed in Queensland<br />
that is disease-resistant and not prone to suckering.<br />
Some varieties are also grown from seed or cutting to<br />
overcome suckering problems. ‘Panama Red’ and ‘Pandora’<br />
may be sold as seed-grown plants, which means they are<br />
growing on their own roots. Black passionfruit is also available<br />
on its own roots.<br />
Planting and care<br />
Passionfruit is one of Australia’s favourite backyard crops and<br />
a useful plant to grow as a living screen for shade or privacy.<br />
Although they are warm-climate plants, passionfruit grow in<br />
all but the very coldest parts of the country.<br />
Tropical, subtropical and warm coastal zones produce the<br />
best vines. In cold areas, select a warm, sheltered spot with<br />
free-draining soil. Cold conditions and wet soils lead to poor<br />
growth or vine death and poor fruiting. Fruit that does form<br />
can be very slow to ripen.<br />
These vines also need space for their extensive root<br />
systems and spreading branches. They are not suited<br />
to growing in pots and may be difficult to manage in<br />
confined spaces.<br />
In tropical and subtropical climates, passionfruit vines<br />
fruit within six months of planting, which can be done at any<br />
time of the year. In temperate zones, however, flowering and<br />
fruiting can take 18 months from planting, which is best done<br />
in spring or early summer.<br />
Feed vines in spring and summer with pelletised organic<br />
manure or citrus food, spreading the fertiliser along the root<br />
system. Water well, particularly after planting, while times are<br />
Shutterstock<br />
72 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Passionfruit| GROWING<br />
Passionfruit label<br />
Common name: Passionfruit<br />
Botanical name: Passiflora edulis<br />
Family: Passifloraceae<br />
Aspect & soil: Sun, well-drained soil<br />
Best climate: Tropics, subtropics, temperate,<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Habit: Perennial vine<br />
Propagation: Seed, cutting, grafting<br />
Difficulty: Moderate<br />
dry and when plants are flowering and crops are maturing.<br />
Watch for suckers (look for the distinctive five-fingered,<br />
blue-green leaf as well as its blue flower) and remove suckers<br />
or seedlings promptly. If a vine dies, carefully dig up the root<br />
system to avoid future problems.<br />
Varieties<br />
‘Nellie Kelly’, a large-fruited black passionfruit, is the most<br />
popular backyard variety as it is self-fertile and tolerates a<br />
wide climate range. Other popular varieties are ‘Panama Red’,<br />
‘Panama Gold’ and ‘Pandora’. The latter three do best in warm<br />
or coastal climates and perform better with cross-pollination<br />
(requiring two separate vines).<br />
Popular in days gone by was the banana passionfruit<br />
(Passiflora mollissima), now considered a weed. This species<br />
was popular as it’s easy to grow and is self-fertile, producing<br />
lots of elongated, yellow, banana-shaped fruit.<br />
Passionfruit is one of Australia’s<br />
favourite backyard crops and a<br />
useful plant to grow as a living<br />
screen for shade or privacy.<br />
Pest insects can also lead to fruit drop. The passionvine<br />
hopper, which resembles a lacy-winged moth, is a major pest<br />
of passionfruit. These insects feed on the vine. When young,<br />
they appear as “fluffy bums” — that’s the name given to the<br />
cute-looking nymphs. <strong>Organic</strong> control is to deter them with a<br />
spray of the hose or to use a registered organic insecticide on<br />
the fluffy bums.<br />
Fruit that forms but contains little pulp may have been<br />
poorly pollinated or exposed to stress from insect pests, cold<br />
or lack of regular water.<br />
Lots of flowers but no fruit may be due to poor pollination.<br />
If the weather is cool, wet, windy or even overcast during<br />
flowering, pollination and fruit set may be poor. A lack of<br />
pollinating insects (often made worse by bad or cloudy<br />
weather) can also affect cropping. Hand pollination — using a<br />
dry paintbrush to transfer pollen to the female part of flowers<br />
— can overcome some pollinating problems and is most<br />
successful when done early in the morning.<br />
To overcome pollination problems, encourage bees and<br />
other pollinating insects by planting flowering herbs such as<br />
borage near the vines.<br />
Harvesting & preserving<br />
Fruit colour at ripening can be variable, but green fruit usually<br />
ripens to purple or black. However, ripe fruit may not be highly<br />
coloured. If green fruit drops to the ground it’s always worth<br />
cutting it open to taste for ripeness.<br />
Ripe fruit left on the ground may become sunburnt, so<br />
regularly collect fallen fruit. To make this easier, keep the<br />
ground around vines clear of weeds or long grass.<br />
Passionfruit can be eaten fresh straight from the skin with a<br />
spoon, or used to top fruit salad or a creamy dessert such as<br />
pavlova. Excess pulp can be frozen or turned into jam, sauce<br />
or cordial. The skins can also be used in some jam recipes..<br />
Passionvine hopper nymph, aka “fluffy bum”<br />
Andy Murray CC<br />
Fruiting clinic<br />
Until the vine is fully mature (6–18 months, depending on your<br />
climate), passionfruit may not flower or fruit. However, not<br />
getting fruit isn’t always due to immaturity of the vine. Lack<br />
of regular water, lack of pollinators or even sudden cold winds<br />
can all take their toll on fruit production.<br />
Too much shade slows ripening. To open up established<br />
plants to more sun for better fruiting and faster ripening,<br />
prune them in late winter or early spring. To do this, carefully<br />
remove a few of the tangle of stems so that fruit and flowers,<br />
when they appear, are better exposed to the light. Don’t cut<br />
the vine back hard.<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 73
COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Passionfruit<br />
Star ingredient: Passionfruit<br />
Passionfruit & Peach<br />
Dairy-Free Cheesecake<br />
The paleo way!<br />
Ingredients<br />
Base<br />
• ½ cup almonds<br />
• ½ cup pecans<br />
• 3 medjool dates,<br />
seeds removed<br />
Filling<br />
• Pulp of 10<br />
passionfruits<br />
(approx 1 cup pulp)<br />
• 4 peaches, skin &<br />
stones removed &<br />
roughly chopped<br />
• 1 cup coconut<br />
flakes<br />
• 1 tbsp melted<br />
coconut oil<br />
• 2 cups cashews,<br />
soaked in water for<br />
at least 4 hours<br />
• 2 tsp vanilla extract<br />
• 200mL coconut<br />
cream<br />
Method<br />
<strong>1.</strong> To make base, combine almonds, pecans,<br />
dates and coconut in food processor and<br />
blend until crumbly.<br />
2. Gradually add coconut oil.<br />
3. Transfer to 20cm spring-form cake pan<br />
and press with back of spoon to even out<br />
base. Place base in freezer.<br />
4. To make filling, strain ½ cup of<br />
passionfruit pulp (reserving remainder) over<br />
medium-sized saucepan and discard seeds.<br />
5. Add peach flesh to saucepan. Stir over<br />
low–medium heat until simmering. Continue<br />
stirring for about 2 mins, then turn off heat<br />
and allow to cool.<br />
6. Combine peach and strained passionfruit<br />
with cashews, vanilla and coconut cream in<br />
food processor until smooth (depending on<br />
size, you may have to blend in 2 batches).<br />
7. Pour onto cheesecake base, cover with<br />
clingwrap and place in freezer overnight.<br />
8. To serve, remove from freezer and allow<br />
to sit for 5–10 mins. Remove sides of springform<br />
pan and top with reserved passionfruit<br />
and coconut flakes. Slice into wedges.<br />
74 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Passionfruit | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 75
GROWING | Parsnip<br />
Parsnip<br />
Pastinaca sativa<br />
Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
Although a parsnip resembles a white carrot,<br />
it’s a little trickier to grow than a carrot or its<br />
other close relative, parsley. For success with<br />
homegrown parsnip, start with fresh seed. Seed that’s old<br />
or has not been well stored has a low germination rate.<br />
Parsnip’s botanic name (Pastinaca sativa) and<br />
the longevity of commonly grown varieties tell a<br />
lot about its cultivated history. The genus name<br />
simply translates as “food” (from pastus), while the<br />
species name sativa means “cultivated”. This name<br />
suggests it was a commonly grown staple, much like<br />
potato is now.<br />
This is backed up by the age of many of the<br />
varieties that are still grown. Most date from the 19th<br />
century or early 20th century. The variety commonly<br />
grown in backyards is ‘Hollow Crown’, which has<br />
been cultivated at least since the 1920s. It has a long<br />
cream root.<br />
Other old varieties available include ‘Guernsey’ and<br />
‘Large Jersey’, which originated in the Channel Isles.<br />
Parsnips don’t transplant<br />
well so are not usually<br />
available as seedlings.<br />
‘Early Short’ is another heritage variety, as is<br />
‘Tender and True’, which, according to the Seed<br />
Savers Network, was named after a popular song<br />
from the 19th century. ‘Melbourne Whiteskin’ is an<br />
old Australian selection that’s still available and is<br />
grown commercially.<br />
In a trial of 12 commercially available parsnip<br />
varieties conducted in Victoria, the variety ‘Javelin’<br />
produced the highest number of healthy roots.<br />
‘Hollow Crown’ and ‘Melbourne Whiteskin’ performed<br />
well when overall yield was assessed.<br />
Getting started<br />
Seed are sown from spring to summer for an autumn-towinter<br />
harvest. In the tropics, sow parsnip in late summer<br />
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Parsnip | GROWING<br />
to grow through the dry season. Allow around 18–20<br />
weeks from planting to harvest.<br />
Parsnips grow best in light, deep soils that allow<br />
the roots to penetrate easily. A mature parsnip can<br />
form a 30cm-long root, so prepare the soil to at least<br />
this depth before planting.<br />
As with carrots, avoid digging in fresh organic<br />
matter before sowing seed — there’s a link between<br />
excess organic matter in the soil and forking of the<br />
root. A good option is to plant parsnips in soil that<br />
was well fertilised for a previous crop, such as a leafy<br />
vegetable, to make use of the residual nutrients.<br />
Alternatively, thoroughly dig in organic fertiliser other<br />
than manure before planting.<br />
To give seeds the highest chance of germination,<br />
sow them directly into damp prepared soil, planting<br />
in rows. Parsnips don’t transplant well, so are not<br />
usually available as seedlings.<br />
Sow the seed in shallow rows around 6–10mm<br />
deep, then lightly cover the seed with fine soil or a<br />
layer of vermiculite. A fine layer of mulch over the<br />
soil surface can also help encourage germination by<br />
ensuring the soil stays damp. It can take 3–4 weeks<br />
for seeds to germinate, so patience is also required.<br />
Try to space the seeds 10cm apart to allow room<br />
for the plants to reach their mature size but, if<br />
necessary, thin seedlings when they reach 5cm high.<br />
Growing parsnips<br />
Although poor germination can make parsnips a<br />
challenge to grow, once they are growing they tend to be<br />
free of pest and disease problems but do need protection<br />
from snails and slugs.<br />
Keep the soil moist and free of weeds as the seeds<br />
germinate and grow. Once they are growing, apply<br />
a side dressing of organic fertiliser or liquidfeed<br />
the growing plants. Keep them well<br />
watered to avoid any stress that may<br />
send the parsnip plants into premature<br />
flower formation.<br />
Left unharvested, parsnips, which are<br />
biennial plants, produce flower stems<br />
in their second year, as does another of<br />
parsnip’s close relatives, parsley. Parsnip<br />
flowers are yellow, arranged in umbels<br />
and followed by broad, flat seeds that<br />
should be sown soon after they ripen. Parsnip<br />
has broad, flat leaves a little like those of parsley<br />
or coriander.<br />
Harvest, storage & preserving<br />
As well as looking good in a mix of roast vegies,<br />
parsnips are highly nutritious, supplying potassium<br />
along with vitamin C and dietary fibre. They are<br />
naturally sweet but the sweetest parsnips are grown<br />
Parsnip label<br />
Common name: Parsnip<br />
Botanical name: Pastinaca sativa<br />
Family: Apiaceae (carrot family)<br />
Aspect & soil: Sun; deep, well-drained soil<br />
Best climate: All<br />
Habit: Biennial grown as annual root vegetable<br />
Propagation: Seed<br />
Difficulty: Moderate<br />
in cooler climates. They benefit from a winter chill<br />
before harvest, which increases their sweetness by<br />
converting starches in the root to sugars.<br />
Parsnip roots can be left in the ground and<br />
harvested as needed during autumn and winter,<br />
although there’s a risk of the roots becoming woody<br />
with age, especially if the plants flower and seed.<br />
If the leaves die down, there’s also a risk that they’ll<br />
be overlooked, so mark plantings. In areas with<br />
wet winters or poorly drained soil, harvest parsnips<br />
in autumn.<br />
Pull the plants up carefully from the ground to<br />
avoid damaging the root. To get a good shelf life from<br />
parsnips, remove the leaves after harvesting, cutting<br />
them close to the top of the root (take care as the<br />
leaves can cause allergies in some people).<br />
Store in a cool, airy room or well wrapped in<br />
the crisper section of the fridge. They can also be<br />
preserved by bottling or freezing. Their high sugar<br />
content means they can also be used to make wine.<br />
And for those who don’t like parsnips, they<br />
are also grown as feed for animals<br />
such as pigs. In Italy they are prized<br />
as feed for pigs raised for<br />
Parma ham.<br />
Did you know?<br />
Centuries ago, parsnips<br />
were enjoyed as a<br />
sweetener in cooking.<br />
Parsnip leaves resemble parsley,<br />
a member of the same family<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 77
COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Parsnip<br />
Star ingredient: Parsnip<br />
Parma Ham & Pea Salad<br />
with Parsnip Chips<br />
Serves 2 as a lunch main, 4 as a side<br />
Ingredients<br />
• Coconut oil<br />
• 2 parsnips, peeled<br />
into strips with a<br />
Y-shaped peeler<br />
• 100g rocket<br />
• 50g semi-dried<br />
tomatoes<br />
• 500g fresh or<br />
frozen peas<br />
• 6 slices aged<br />
Parma ham<br />
• 100g soft Persian<br />
goat’s cheese<br />
• Handful pistachios,<br />
to garnish<br />
Method<br />
<strong>1.</strong> In a shallow frypan, add coconut oil to<br />
measure 6cm. Use a thermometer to heat<br />
oil to 350°C or, if using a deep fryer, fill with<br />
coconut oil to required level and heat to 350°C.<br />
2. Add parsnip strips and fry, turning<br />
occasionally until golden brown and crisp,<br />
about 2 mins. Using a spider or slotted spoon,<br />
transfer parsnip chips to paper towel and<br />
drain. Set aside.<br />
3. Combine rocket, semi-dried tomatoes and<br />
peas with a little oil from the tomatoes.<br />
4. Transfer to serving platter and arrange<br />
Parma ham on top. Arrange goat’s cheese and<br />
pistachios in and around ham and garnish<br />
with parsnip chips.<br />
78 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Parsnip | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 79
GROWING | Beetroot<br />
Beetroot<br />
Beta vulgaris<br />
A golden beetroot and a target spot variety<br />
Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
Beetroot is related to sugar beet and the amazing<br />
mangel-wurzel, which are also grown for their<br />
swollen roots, as well as to the more commonly<br />
grown leafy vegetables silverbeet and Swiss chard.<br />
All are in the plant family Chenopodiaceae, which<br />
also accounts for some weeds, including goosefoot<br />
(Chenopodium album).<br />
Although beetroot is usually thought of as a root<br />
vegetable, you can harvest the tender young leaves to<br />
add to a salad. Their red stalks and veins add colour to<br />
any green salad.<br />
Many varieties<br />
Beetroot is best known for its round red root, but<br />
these vegies come in many shapes and colours and<br />
today there are lots of named varieties to buy and<br />
grow. They can be large and round, such as the<br />
widely grown ‘Derwent Globe’, small and round (baby<br />
beet) or tapered more like a carrot (‘Cylindra’). In<br />
the colour range there are white (‘Albino’), red and<br />
white (‘Chioggia’), dark red (‘Bulls Blood’) and golden<br />
(‘Burpees Golden’ and ‘Golden Derwent’).<br />
Growing beetroot<br />
Beetroot can be grown just about all year round in most<br />
climates but is best planted in late summer for harvest<br />
in autumn or planted in winter or spring for a spring-tosummer<br />
harvest. If the growing conditions are not right,<br />
the plant can flower and seed before it produces a goodsized<br />
root. This is known as “bolting”.<br />
Producing good beetroot means starting with a<br />
well-prepared soil. Before planting beetroot seed or<br />
seedlings in the vegie patch, it’s vital to prepare the soil<br />
by digging it over thoroughly. Remove rocks and clods<br />
(hard lumps of dirt) so the roots can easily penetrate<br />
the soil. Shallow soil will cause the roots to poke out<br />
above ground and will lead to smaller roots and a<br />
smaller harvest. Even in good soil it’s normal to see the<br />
top of the beetroot above the ground.<br />
For best growth in shallow soils or containers, select<br />
baby beets. These small but tasty forms of beetroot grow<br />
readily in troughs in a sunny spot.<br />
Get sowing<br />
A curious thing about beetroot is its seed. Beetroot grows<br />
from a corky seed cluster, which contains one to four<br />
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Beetroot | GROWING<br />
seeds. Because of this oddity, it’s necessary to thin out<br />
seedlings when they’re large enough to handle. Select the<br />
strongest seedlings and either transplant the “thinnings”<br />
(the plants you remove) or eat them in a leafy salad.<br />
With the soil prepared, sow the corky seed in shallow<br />
rows about 1–2cm deep, pressing the seed firmly into<br />
the soil and covering it. Alternatively, look for seed tapes<br />
where a biodegradable tape has been impregnated with<br />
beetroot seed to ensure good spacing. Keep the soil<br />
moist while you wait for the seedlings to appear.<br />
Beetroot can also be sown into a seedling punnet or<br />
seed tray, allowed to grow until the seedlings are around<br />
3–5cm high and then planted into the garden.<br />
Beetroot label<br />
Common name: Beetroot<br />
Botanical name: Beta vulgaris<br />
Family: Chenopodiaceae (spinach family)<br />
Aspect & soil: Sun, well-drained soil free of lumps<br />
Best climate: All<br />
Habit: Annual<br />
Propagation: Seed, seedling<br />
Difficulty: Moderate<br />
Seeds take 10–14 days to germinate. Speed up<br />
germination before direct sowing by soaking the seed in<br />
warm water for an hour or two. This allows moisture to<br />
penetrate the seed and triggers germination.<br />
There’s another secret to beetroot growing: boron. It<br />
can be added to the soil as borax. Dissolve a teaspoon<br />
of borax powder in a watering can and water over the<br />
seeds at sowing. Boron is a micronutrient that beetroot<br />
needs to form good roots. Hollow roots can indicate a<br />
boron deficiency.<br />
If planting seedlings, soak the punnet well and gently<br />
separate the seedlings. They can then be planted out<br />
about 15–20cm apart. This allows each plant room to<br />
grow a good-sized root.<br />
As the plants develop, encourage good growth with<br />
regular feeds of a liquid fertiliser that’s high in potassium<br />
and phosphorus.<br />
Boron is a micronutrient that<br />
beetroot needs to form good<br />
roots. Hollow roots can indicate<br />
a boron deficiency.<br />
Beetroot tends to grow with the top<br />
of the roots protruding from the soil<br />
Harvest, storage and preserving<br />
Beetroot generally takes 10–12 weeks from planting out<br />
seedlings to harvesting. By this time they’ll be around<br />
6–10cm across. Baby beets can be harvested much<br />
sooner — from around 6–7 weeks.<br />
Don’t rush to harvest all your beetroot at once. Beets<br />
can be left in the ground for several weeks beyond<br />
maturity, especially in cooler climates or in the cooler<br />
parts of the year in warm climates, but don’t leave them<br />
for too many weeks as they can become woody and are<br />
then best fed to the chooks.<br />
When pulling beetroot from the soil, pull plants gently<br />
to get the entire plant. Clean the roots to remove dirt or<br />
grit. Store beetroot with its leaves attached. It keeps for<br />
several weeks in the crisper section of the fridge.<br />
Serve beetroot raw as sticks or grated, or steam, boil or<br />
roast it. After cooking, remove the skin and eat as a hot<br />
vegetable, turn into a soup or preserve it. It can be sliced<br />
and stored in spiced vinegar. Beetroot juice has been<br />
found in studies to lower high blood pressure.<br />
Young beetroot leaves are a tasty<br />
and colourful addition to salads<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 81
COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Beetroot<br />
Star ingredient: Beetroot<br />
Beetroot & Chocolate Cake<br />
Ingredients<br />
• 300g 70% organic<br />
cocoa chocolate<br />
• 250g raw beetroot,<br />
grated<br />
• 4 organic eggs,<br />
separated, placing<br />
whites in clean,<br />
dry bowl<br />
• 150g coconut sugar<br />
• 70g almond meal<br />
• 70g hazelnut meal<br />
• 1 tbsp baking<br />
powder<br />
• 1 tbsp cocoa powder<br />
• Crème fraîche or<br />
cream, to serve<br />
Method<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Preheat oven 180°C.<br />
2. Line base of 20cm cake tin with baking paper and<br />
grease sides with a little butter. Dust sides with a glutenfree<br />
flour, like coconut flour, shaking out excess.<br />
3. Melt 200g of chocolate in a bowl over a simmering<br />
pan of water (make sure base of bowl isn’t touching<br />
water). Once melted, remove from heat and set aside.<br />
4. Combine grated beetroot and egg yolks, then add<br />
coconut sugar, almond meal, hazelnut meal, baking<br />
powder, cocoa powder and melted chocolate, and<br />
mix well.<br />
5. Whisk egg whites to stiff peaks.<br />
6. Fold one-quarter of egg whites into beetroot mix,<br />
combine gently, lightening mix, then add remaining egg<br />
white, being careful not to over-mix.<br />
7. Transfer to baking tin and bake for 50 mins. Check<br />
the cake is cooked through by inserting a skewer or tip<br />
of a knife, which should come out clean. Leave to cool.<br />
8. To serve, melt remaining chocolate as before and<br />
drizzle a little over cake. Serve with crème fraîche or<br />
cream on the side.<br />
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Beetroot | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 83
GROWING | Sweet corn<br />
Sweet corn<br />
Zeya mays<br />
Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />
Sweet corn is a big, bold vegetable that’s sure to<br />
be popular with all the family. If you’re planning to<br />
grow a crop of sweet corn, allow plenty of room.<br />
Not only does it grow tall, it’s also best grown in a block at<br />
least a metre square. This is because sweet corn is wind<br />
pollinated — planting it in a block maximises pollination<br />
and produces well-filled cobs.<br />
Sweet corn has its own language to describe the<br />
flowers, fruit and the plant itself. The male flowers are<br />
called tassels. The female flowers are known as silks,<br />
which is also the name for the silky wispy filaments at the<br />
top of each cob. The fruit is referred to as a cob and the<br />
kernels on the cob as an ear. The cob has a husk, which is<br />
the outer green “wrapping” that covers the juicy kernels,<br />
which are the edible seeds. Shucking is the name given to<br />
removing the outer husk. The stem of the corn is known<br />
as the culm, as it’s a type of large grass.<br />
Varieties<br />
There are many sweet corn varieties available. Modern F1<br />
hybrid varieties tend to be high yielding and very sweet.<br />
They also keep longer than older varieties as they are<br />
slower at converting sugar to starch. They may produce<br />
yellow or bicolour kernels (a mix of white and yellow<br />
kernels on each cob). Sweet-corn breeding has been<br />
working towards producing sweeter and sweeter corn,<br />
known as supersweet corn. Varieties with white and<br />
yellow kernels are the top choice to grow for extrasweet<br />
corn.<br />
Older varieties usually produce just two cobs per plant<br />
with yellow kernels but are more forgiving of fluctuations<br />
in the season. A reliable variety to try is ‘Golden Bantam’,<br />
which dates from the early 20th century.<br />
There are also old corn varieties with blue kernels<br />
(‘Hopi Blue’) and varieties with multi-coloured kernels<br />
that may include yellow, white and purple.<br />
As well as traditional sweet corn, there are other forms<br />
of corn grown for different uses. Popcorn, as the name<br />
suggests, is grown to make popcorn and is harvested<br />
when it is hard. Baby corn is harvested while the cobs<br />
are small and soft. Popcorn produces the best baby corn.<br />
Maize is grown as stock food. It lacks the sweetness of<br />
sweet corn.<br />
Getting started<br />
Sweet corn seed is large and easy to handle. It’s best<br />
direct-sown where it is to grow. It likes a warm growing<br />
period, so seed is sown during spring and summer with<br />
harvests from summer plantings extending into autumn.<br />
Before sowing, dig in organic fertiliser — but don’t<br />
allow seed to come into direct contact with fertiliser.<br />
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Sweet corn | GROWING<br />
Just before sowing, water the soil well so the seed is<br />
sown into damp but not overly wet soil.<br />
To sow seeds, make a furrow in the soil about 25mm<br />
deep. The back of a rake is an ideal tool for this. Make<br />
furrows around 50cm apart. When planting, space the<br />
seeds around 15–20cm apart and then thin plants so they<br />
are 20–30cm apart.<br />
Expect seedlings to emerge in 6–10 days from sowing.<br />
Sweet corn has its own<br />
language to describe the<br />
flowers, fruit and the<br />
plant itself.<br />
Growing needs<br />
The key to a good crop of sweet corn is to provide the<br />
growing plants with plenty of fertiliser and regular, deep<br />
watering. Apply additional fertiliser as the seedlings grow<br />
and when the tassels (male flowers) appear as the plant<br />
reaches maturity and begins to flower. The tassels are<br />
produced at the top of the plant, while the edible cobs<br />
form lower down where the female flowers form.<br />
Weeds compete with the growing plants for both water<br />
and nutrients, so keeping the rows and space between<br />
plants free of weeds is important for good growth. Hoeing<br />
gently between the plants is the easiest way to keep the<br />
patch weed free.<br />
Companion planting<br />
As this is a tall crop that takes many months to reach<br />
harvest, where space is at a premium, the area around<br />
these plants can be used to grow other crops.<br />
Before the plants become tall, it’s possible<br />
to grow a quick crop of lettuce between<br />
rows or around a block of corn.<br />
The stems can also be used to<br />
support other plants, including<br />
Did you know?<br />
Each cob of corn produces<br />
an even number of rows<br />
of kernels.<br />
Sweet corn label<br />
Common name: Sweet corn<br />
Botanical name: Zeya mays<br />
Family: Poaceae (grass family)<br />
Aspect & soil: Sun, well-drained soil<br />
Best climate: All<br />
Habit: Annual<br />
Propagation: Seed, seedling<br />
Difficulty: Easy<br />
climbing beans. A block of corn can also be grown<br />
to provide shade and shelter to other crops, such as<br />
leafy greens.<br />
If extra crops are planted in and around sweet corn,<br />
provide extra water and nutrients to keep the sweet corn<br />
growing strongly.<br />
Troubleshooting<br />
The main disappointment with homegrown sweet<br />
corn is harvesting cobs that have few kernels. Planting<br />
corn in blocks helps to ensure good pollination. Once<br />
the cobs begin to form, corn earworm or budworm<br />
caterpillars may burrow down from the top of the cob<br />
into the kernels.<br />
For organic control, check plants regularly for signs<br />
of caterpillars or frass and webbing at the top of the<br />
cob. Remove caterpillars or affected cobs. You can try<br />
Dipel, but this is ineffective if caterpillars have already<br />
entered cobs.<br />
Harvesting & storing<br />
Sweet corn takes around 10–12 weeks to grow<br />
and produce cobs. Watch the crop carefully to<br />
pick cobs at their peak ripeness when they<br />
are sweet and juicy. Overripe cobs quickly<br />
become tough as sugars in the kernel are<br />
converted to starch.<br />
Telltale signs that the cobs are ready<br />
to harvest include the silks turning from<br />
greeny-yellow to brown and cobs standing<br />
out at an angle from the side of the plant.<br />
To further test for ripeness, peel back<br />
the outer husk and press a thumbnail into<br />
a kernel. If it’s at its peak, it will exude a creamy<br />
juice known as “milk”.<br />
Sweet corn is best eaten as soon as it’s harvested. Cobs<br />
store for a few days if they are well wrapped and kept<br />
in the crisper section of the fridge. Excess can be<br />
blanched and frozen or used to make pickles and<br />
relish (see Jo Rushton’s recipe for corn relish on<br />
page 88).<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 85
COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Sweet corn<br />
Star ingredient: Sweet corn<br />
Corn & Chive Fritters<br />
with Avocado Salsa<br />
Makes 8 fritters<br />
Ingredients<br />
• 500g raw sweet<br />
corn kernels, about<br />
3 ears of corn<br />
• 4 organic eggs<br />
• Pinch sea salt &<br />
freshly ground<br />
pepper<br />
• 1 bunch chives,<br />
chopped<br />
• 1 red capsicum,<br />
finely chopped<br />
• ½ leek, finely sliced<br />
• 1 heaped tbsp<br />
coconut flour<br />
• 1 heaped tbsp<br />
almond meal<br />
• Ghee or coconut<br />
oil, for frying<br />
Method<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Combine half the corn kernels with eggs,<br />
salt and pepper in food processor or highperformance<br />
blender. Process for 1 min or until<br />
corn has broken up and forms a batter with<br />
eggs. Transfer to bowl.<br />
2. Fold in remaining corn kernels, chives,<br />
capsicum, leek, coconut flour and almond meal<br />
to form a batter.<br />
3. Heat 2 tablespoons of ghee or coconut oil in<br />
a frying pan over a gentle heat.<br />
4. Drop 2 tablespoons of mixture per fritter<br />
into pan and cook in small batches for 4 mins<br />
each side or until firm and golden.<br />
5. Serve with avocado salsa and green leaves.<br />
Avocado salsa<br />
Roots of bunch of coriander<br />
1 green chilli, chopped (seeds in if<br />
you like it hot)<br />
1 large clove garlic, minced<br />
Juice 1 lime<br />
2 avocados, mashed<br />
½ Spanish onion, diced<br />
2 tomatoes, chopped<br />
Celtic sea salt & pepper, to taste<br />
Handful chopped coriander leaves<br />
<strong>1.</strong> Using a mortar and pestle, pound<br />
coriander roots with chilli, garlic and<br />
lime juice until a fine paste.<br />
2. Mix paste through mashed avocado,<br />
then add onion, tomato, salt and<br />
pepper, and coriander leaves. Mix<br />
well. Can be stored in a sealed glass<br />
container in the fridge for up to 3 days.<br />
86 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
Sweet corn | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 87
PRESERVING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | SWEET CORN<br />
Star ingredient: Sweet corn<br />
Fermented Sweet Corn<br />
& Chilli Relish<br />
Recipe adapted from Sally Fallon’s Nourishing Traditions<br />
Ingredients<br />
• 3 cups corn kernels<br />
• 1 small onion, chopped<br />
• ½ capsicum, seeded & chopped<br />
• 1 celery stick, chopped<br />
• 2 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped<br />
• ½ tsp chilli flakes<br />
• 2 tbsp Celtic sea salt<br />
Method<br />
<strong>1.</strong> In a large bowl, mix together all ingredients.<br />
Pound gently with wooden pounder or meat<br />
hammer to release juices.<br />
2. Place in 1L wide-mouthed jar and press<br />
down until juices cover relish. Top of vegetable<br />
mix should be at least 3cm below top of jar.<br />
3. Cover tightly and leave at room<br />
temperature for 3 days, then transfer to fridge.<br />
Relish will last up to a month.<br />
88 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
PICK OF THE CROP<br />
pick of the crop<br />
Our selection of products and services for gardeners and cooks<br />
News from the Organigrow farm<br />
Great progress has been made at the Organigrow farm. We have completed the new<br />
brooder shed, which is rat-proof and insulated with 200mm of rock wool insulation.<br />
It’s now working well, though I still have to put in the final touches of hanging the<br />
temperature sensors and completing the automation of vents fans etc. It has cut the<br />
gas bill by hundreds of dollars per batch, and thus our CO2 emissions, and protected<br />
the chicks from the antechinus, which decimated the last batch we raised in the<br />
old brooder. We converted the old brooders into a grower run with new fencing and<br />
overhead netting; there’s now almost 5000 square metres of protected area for the<br />
growing chicks to run around in. They are having a great time with all the space and<br />
fresh pasture to eat. We’re working on the final touches: a feedline to automate the<br />
feeding and roof sprinklers to keep them cool over the hot months.<br />
organigrow.com.au<br />
Number 1<br />
cold-press juicer<br />
The Kuvings Whole Slow Juicer is both<br />
Choice Recommended and the <strong>Good</strong><br />
<strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> Award Winner for<br />
the number 1 cold-press juicer. It’s the<br />
first cold-press juicer that juices whole<br />
fruit and vegetables. Stylish, quiet and<br />
easy to clean, it yields more nutrients<br />
and enzymes for a healthy juice. Made<br />
in Korea with 20 years warranty on the<br />
motor and five years on the parts. For<br />
more information visit kuvings.net.au or<br />
call 02 9798 0586.<br />
Pest-free the organic way<br />
Keep your vegetables and garden plants pest-free and looking good the<br />
natural way without using harsh chemicals. Searles Ecofend® Vegetable<br />
& Garden is an organic soap-based spray that makes it easy to control<br />
infestations of insects and mites like thrips, mealybug, whitefly and those<br />
nasty plant-deforming insects, aphids. Spray Searles Ecofend® Vegetable<br />
& Garden at the first sight of insects on your vegetables, fruit trees,<br />
pot plants, roses and ornamentals. This spray contains an organic<br />
ingredient that is safe to use on edible plants. Available in 250mL,<br />
500mL and 1L easy-to-measure concentrated bottles and a readyto-use<br />
trigger spray. Call 07 5422 3000 or visit searles.com.au for<br />
more information on this product and other organic pest-control<br />
sprays, especially for fruit trees and shrubs. searles.com.au<br />
Eco-elegance<br />
in a candle<br />
This elegant glass tumbler is sure to add<br />
sophistication to any setting, along with a<br />
romantic glow. Hand-crafted from a topquality<br />
thick-walled glass tumbler with a<br />
resealable bamboo lid, its wick crackles<br />
like fire, adding a lovely ambience to your<br />
space. Available in Drishti’s five custom<br />
aromas, all 100 per cent essential oils<br />
with therapeutic benefits, it will fill your<br />
home with beautiful aromas and glowing<br />
light. Drishti candles are made from<br />
100 per cent natural ingredients and<br />
aromatherapy essential oils, along with<br />
cotton or wooden wicks (FSC certified).<br />
Each candle has a unique feather pattern<br />
and is hand-blended. With a Drishti candle<br />
you feel you have stepped into nature and<br />
are surrounded by its beauty. The glass<br />
tumbler has the largest scent throw of all<br />
Drishti candles, so is ideal for a spacious<br />
area. These candles really offer you a<br />
piece of eco-elegance. 100% Natural.<br />
100% Beautiful. 100% Lighting the Way.<br />
drishti.com.au<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 89
Wild Olive<br />
Chardonnay<br />
— perfect for<br />
summer<br />
Wild Olive <strong>Organic</strong> McLaren<br />
Vale Chardonnay is the latest<br />
addition to the fantastic range<br />
of organic wines from fifth<br />
generation family-owned,<br />
Angove Family Winemakers.<br />
Grapes are sourced from fully<br />
certified vineyards in McLaren<br />
Vale. The region’s idyllic<br />
Mediterranean climate and<br />
proximity to the ocean allows<br />
them to ripen slowly to the<br />
peak of flavour ripeness while<br />
retaining natural acidity. They<br />
have been gently crafted with<br />
minimal intervention into this<br />
delightfully fresh wine that is<br />
bursting with the ubiquitous<br />
peach, melon and nectarine<br />
flavours of modern Australian<br />
Chardonnay with just a hint<br />
of oak. angove.com.au<br />
Is keeping chooks<br />
just too hard?<br />
You’ve probably read about the increasing number of people<br />
keeping chooks, which may have got you thinking, maybe I should<br />
get chooks. There is, of course, also that nagging voice telling you<br />
that you already have enough to do. Honestly, though, chickens<br />
are a lot easier to look after than a dog — no walking for a start.<br />
By keeping just two chooks you could get up to 12 delicious eggs<br />
a week. Fresh is definitely better when it comes to eggs, plus you<br />
know exactly what has gone into them. The usual objections to<br />
keeping chooks are cleaning the coop, smells and rodents. There<br />
are lots of different chicken coops on the market, but we love the<br />
Omlet Eglu Go UP because it addresses all three. It’s plastic, so<br />
it’s easy to clean — just turn the hose on it. That means you don’t<br />
get horrible smells, plus it’s easy to remove the droppings tray<br />
and empty it straight into the compost. Rodents are attracted by<br />
food and chickens can be messy eaters. However, the Eglu Go<br />
UP comes with a specially designed feeder that prevents them<br />
throwing food around. Omlet.com.au<br />
The best hanging baskets in<br />
the world<br />
Seeing is believing, and the range of hanging baskets from Bloom<br />
Master Australia has everything you ever wanted in a hanging<br />
basket and more. It’s just so simple: plant the side holes and the<br />
top with your choice of seedlings and before you know it the<br />
basket is covered in a cascade of colour, giving you months of<br />
blooming pleasure. Your options are endless: herbs, strawberries,<br />
flowers — all are showcased brilliantly with these baskets and<br />
planter boxes. The unique design means the potting mix won’t<br />
wash out of the holes when watered. Due to the volume and<br />
depth of the containers, they stay moist longer and the foliage<br />
becomes insulating while still allowing aeration through the side<br />
holes. The product range is made of high-quality poly-propylene<br />
and is UV-treated. Available in various sizes and comes complete<br />
with wire hanger. bloommaster.com.au<br />
Automatic irrigation<br />
for small spaces<br />
Irrigatia makes automatic solar irrigation systems that respond to the<br />
weather to decide for themselves how much water your plants need.<br />
The system is solar-powered and waters by slow drip every three hours<br />
from any-sized, clean, still water source. And it works whether you are<br />
home or on holiday! The system is great for pots (up to 48), garden beds,<br />
vegetables, courtyards and balcony gardens and in your greenhouse. And<br />
because it can raise water as high as 4.5m, it’s wonderful for living walls and<br />
hanging baskets (and who has the time to water them three or four times a<br />
day?!) The water source for the system could be an existing water tank or<br />
a bin full of clean water — drill a small hole in the lid for the inlet tube and<br />
to keep the mozzies out. The Irrigatia kit comes complete with a 12-dripper<br />
irrigation kit. This can be extended with further Irrigatia drippers or with a<br />
seephose kit. irrigatia.com.au<br />
90 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
PICK OF THE CROP<br />
For households<br />
and businesses<br />
If you and your family could choose one of the following for<br />
your home what would it be?<br />
Non-toxic Australian products for cleaning your home<br />
environment<br />
Non-toxic cleaning that can reduced your expenditure on<br />
cleaners by half<br />
Non-toxic products that don’t harm you or your local<br />
environment<br />
Green Aussie Cleaner® has for 23 years delivered to<br />
families all of the above. It will give you the ultimate cleaning<br />
experience for you and your family. It is one single non-toxic<br />
product for your home cleaning, including<br />
clothes washing. The formula is designed<br />
for you the user to get extraordinary value<br />
for money by adding extra water for your<br />
job applications. Green Aussie Cleaner® is<br />
manufactured using totally environmentally<br />
safe ingredients with essential oils. Our fragile<br />
environment, which has been under attack<br />
over many generations, can benefit greatly<br />
from products like Green Aussie Cleaner®.<br />
Do yourself a favour and check out our<br />
testimonials at greenaussiefoundation.org<br />
Fruit Salad Tree<br />
The Fruit Salad Tree, developed in 1990 by the West<br />
family, bears up to six different fruits of the same family<br />
on the one plant. All fruits retain their individuality, with<br />
staggered ripening times. There are four tree types: stone<br />
fruit, citrus, multi apples and multi nashis. The trees can be<br />
grown in the ground, espaliered or grown in pots. Instead of<br />
having numerous different trees with more fruit than your<br />
household can consume there’s just one tree with the fruits<br />
ripening naturally over a period of months. Trees are grown<br />
so the fruiting branches begin about 10cm above soil level,<br />
keeping them compact, which allows easy harvesting. There<br />
are trees to suit most climatic conditions and planting<br />
can take place at any time of the year. Whatever variety is<br />
required for cross-pollination has been grafted onto the<br />
tree. You simply list the fruits you would like to have, in<br />
the order of importance and, working down your list, the<br />
company chooses the best trees to suit your requirements.<br />
Trees are dispatched all year round (while in stock)<br />
and are permitted entry into all states of Australia. Visit<br />
FruitSaladTrees.com to complete a mail-order form.<br />
Sprinklers for large<br />
and small areas<br />
Wobble-Tee now has a sprinkler for both large and small areas. The<br />
award-winning Wobble-Tee Sprinkler covers large areas up to a 15m<br />
diameter with low to medium pressure requirements and will water<br />
your lawn efficiently just like slow soaking rain. The consistent large<br />
droplets minimise wind drift and evaporation loss. The removable filter<br />
allows use with river and dam water. The Wobble-Tee also has the<br />
ability to operate more than one sprinkler from the same tap so you<br />
can water even larger areas. On the other hand, if you have a small<br />
courtyard, the Clever Drop Sprinkler is for you, watering up to an 8m<br />
diameter. This new sprinkler has many clever features. A low angle of<br />
trajectory reduces wind drift and contains a small area. The purposebuilt<br />
base can be adjusted for uneven surfaces or used on your<br />
corrugated iron roof for cooling of work sheds and bird aviaries. Run up<br />
to eight sprinklers in a row to cover the long, narrow areas in your yard.<br />
Operates with 5–50psi and pressure-regulating discs supplied allow use<br />
with high pressure to water a small area. wobble-tee.com.au<br />
Water<br />
only when<br />
needed with<br />
the Toro<br />
Precision<br />
Soil Sensor<br />
The Toro Precision Soil<br />
Sensor reduces water waste<br />
by measuring moisture<br />
levels in your soil and<br />
determining when to<br />
allow your controller to<br />
water. “We’ve taken the<br />
same technology found at<br />
professional golf courses<br />
and sports fields and<br />
created a sensor intended<br />
for residential use,” says<br />
Ben Hall of Toro Australia.<br />
The Precision Soil Sensor<br />
is a two-part system that includes a battery-powered sensor and a receiver<br />
connected to your irrigation controller. Communication between the sensor<br />
and receiver is wireless, with up to 152m line-of-sight range. It’s very easy to<br />
install and no digging is required. First, connect the receiver to the controller,<br />
then find a representative area of your property for the sensor. Push the<br />
sensor probe in the ground and it will automatically calibrate itself to your soil<br />
type and begin communicating wirelessly with the receiver. toro.com.au<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 91
PICK OF THE CROP<br />
Yates Nature’s Way —<br />
control insect pests<br />
organically<br />
Yates has three fantastic new products in its organically<br />
certified Nature’s Way range:<br />
Vegie & Herb Spray, based on insecticidal soap, targets<br />
sucking insects like aphids, thrips and whitefly.<br />
Caterpillar Killer, containing the beneficial bacteria<br />
Bacillus thuringiensis controls most common caterpillars,<br />
like cabbage white butterfly, looper and budworm.<br />
Citrus & Ornamental Spray, containing the special<br />
combination of natural pyrethrin and vegetable oil,<br />
controls both chewing and sucking insect pests on citrus,<br />
ornamental plants and vegies.<br />
For more information on organic gardening, head to<br />
yates.com.au. Yates also has a fantastic Garden Club and<br />
members receive a monthly gardening email that gives<br />
handy information about what to do in the garden that<br />
month. It’s free to join and as a special offer to <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong><br />
<strong>Gardening</strong> magazine readers, sign up using the promotional<br />
code GOG15 and receive a packet of Yates organic seed.<br />
<strong>Organic</strong><br />
rubbish bags<br />
Help reduce the amount of toxic plastic<br />
bags that continue to accumulate in our<br />
environment every year by using these<br />
revolutionary organic rubbish bags from<br />
Maze. Constructed from a starch-based<br />
polymer, the organic rubbish bags begin to<br />
decompose within weeks of being added<br />
to your local rubbish tip. All you need to<br />
do is simply add your indoor and outdoor<br />
refuse into one of the 27L capacity bags,<br />
dispose of it into your outdoor bin and rest<br />
assured that you have actively contributed<br />
to the health of your local environment.<br />
With strong and durable easy-tie handles,<br />
these 27L organic rubbish bags fit most<br />
small/medium-sized bins and are easily<br />
used in the home, office or garden.<br />
mazeproducts.com.au<br />
Amazing Coconut<br />
Did you know that coconut fibre has a<br />
natural anti-bacterial? This quality makes<br />
it a perfect natural fibre for the kitchen<br />
that is eco-friendly, biodegradable<br />
and a healthier and more sustainable<br />
choice. The Eco Max Kitchen Scrubber<br />
uses the husk of the coconut to make<br />
a strong, long-lasting kitchen scrubber.<br />
The fibres are wound onto galvanised<br />
wire, so it won’t rust and can even go<br />
into the dishwasher. Unlike with nylon<br />
scourers, oil and fat does not congeal on<br />
the coconut fibre and it won’t scratch<br />
enamelware or take the patina from cast<br />
iron. The bristles make it ideal for hardto-clean<br />
areas such as garlic crushers,<br />
strainers and graters and it easily cleans<br />
blenders, juicers and mixers. You can<br />
even use the Eco Max Kitchen Scrubber<br />
outside on the barbecue, animal troughs,<br />
pet bowl or in the chook shed to clean<br />
your eggs. With a RRP of $3 you’ll find<br />
many uses for the Eco Max Kitchen<br />
Scrubber. For a stockist near you,<br />
importants.com.au<br />
<strong>Organic</strong> home-style cookies<br />
<strong>Organic</strong> Times’ certified organic home-style cookies are made<br />
with only the best-quality ingredients, including organic 100 per<br />
cent grass-fed butter; Fairtrade organic premium couverture<br />
chocolate; fresh organic whole eggs; organic pure vanilla<br />
extract; and Australian organic almonds and macadamia nuts.<br />
The range includes Choc Chip, Triple Choc, White Chocolate<br />
Macadamia and Choc Almond. Baked with love in our boutique<br />
family bakery, our cookies contain no GMOs, no palm oil and<br />
nothing artificial. Offering a better choice for you and our<br />
planet, without compromising on all the deliciousness you<br />
expect in your favourite cookies. Gluten-free also available.<br />
Available at Target, organic and healthfood stores, independent<br />
supermarkets and gourmet retailers. organictimes.com.au<br />
92 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
PICK OF THE CROP<br />
Save water and get better<br />
growth with the world’s<br />
best-tasting water!<br />
The key to better plant growth and water savings is<br />
all about fast and efficient hydration. The PhPerfect<br />
Energised Water Systems Home Edge, Commercial<br />
Edge & Travel Edge all energise and re-animate stale,<br />
lifeless water typically found in Australian urban and<br />
rural areas by creating smaller water molecule clusters,<br />
which penetrate the blood and plant cells more easily<br />
and efficiently. This provides faster and more effective<br />
hydration, meaning less water is needed to effect the<br />
same result. And for gardeners, that can add up to<br />
substantial water savings and faster plant growth! Give<br />
the hydration experts at Healthy Water Technologies<br />
Australia a call today and find out how you can enjoy<br />
the world’s best-tasting water at home, in the garden<br />
or wherever you travel. And remember, PhPerfect<br />
Energised Water not only tastes better, it’s better for<br />
you and your garden! hwta.com.au<br />
Grow delicious vegies you’ll love<br />
to share<br />
There’s nothing more rewarding than growing your own organic vegies!<br />
And when they’re picked perfectly ripe from your own garden, they taste<br />
absolutely delicious and are packed with healthy nutrients, too. Pure <strong>Organic</strong><br />
products are just as Mother Nature intended. They are organic and have<br />
no added synthetic chemicals. Setting up the perfect organic growing<br />
environment at home can be a hassle, but with Scotts Pure <strong>Organic</strong> soils and<br />
plant foods, it couldn’t be easier. Simply open the pack and add it to pots,<br />
planters or garden beds. Pure <strong>Organic</strong> has been developed in collaboration<br />
with expert horticulturists to ensure your homegrown produce has everything<br />
it needs, right from the bag. The mixture contains organic slow-release<br />
fertiliser to feed your plants for three months so your crop will receive the<br />
right amount of nutrients and help your herbs, vegies and tomatoes flourish!<br />
New Scotts Pure <strong>Organic</strong> works! For expert gardening advice call<br />
1800 804 219 (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm) or visit scottspureorganic.com.au<br />
Cover to cover<br />
The Australian Native<br />
Garden: A Practical Guide<br />
By Angus Stewart & AB<br />
Bishop, Murdoch Books,<br />
$49.99<br />
“It’s not too much of a stretch,”<br />
writes Angus Stewart, “to say<br />
that planting an indigenous<br />
garden can help save the<br />
planet.” The ABC’s <strong>Gardening</strong><br />
Australia guru makes the<br />
point that designing a native<br />
garden — droughtproof,<br />
fire-resistant and attractive<br />
to native fauna — is a small<br />
step towards “climate and pollution control as well as ecological<br />
diversity”. This book, lavishly illustrated with beautiful colour photos,<br />
many by Stewart and researcher AB Bishop, is a step-by-step guide<br />
to achieving that, from the fundamentals of soils and growing<br />
techniques to fertilising and maintenance. The authors look at both<br />
wild habitats and some of our best-designed native gardens as<br />
well as native Australian plantations as far away as California and<br />
Europe. Comprehensive and engagingly written, this is all you need<br />
to know to start saving the planet — one callistemon at a time.<br />
The Produce Companion<br />
By Meredith Kirton & Mandy<br />
Sinclair, Hardie Grant, $49.95<br />
Cookbooks are pretty much<br />
the cutting edge of book<br />
design these days and this<br />
stunningly produced volume<br />
is no exception. But behind its<br />
good looks is a 350-odd-page<br />
celebration of the seasonal<br />
delights of fresh produce, from<br />
garden to plate. “Neither of<br />
us can bear waste,” declare<br />
gardening expert Meredith<br />
Kirton and food writer Mandy<br />
Sinclair. “It seems so ungrateful not to make use of everything.”<br />
Accordingly, the authors divide their book into two parts. Garden<br />
is full of fine information about growing, harvesting and storing<br />
fruit, vegies and herbs, from apples and artichokes to thyme<br />
and zucchinis. Recipes presents more than 100 ways to save<br />
and use each season’s bounty, whether as jams or jellies, sauces<br />
or salsas, chutneys or pestos. A bonus is the handy guide to<br />
pickling and preserving. In short, this book is not just a pleasure<br />
to look at but a valuable resource as well.<br />
<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 93
WHAT’S ON<br />
A tiny sample of events around the country in <strong>January</strong> & <strong>February</strong><br />
SA<br />
Joe’s Connected Garden<br />
Sat Feb 6 to Sun Feb 7<br />
6 Argent St, Elizabeth South<br />
With an amazing collection of temperate and subtropical trees<br />
and a large collection of vegetables, this garden is a cornucopia<br />
in suburbia. There are no clipped ornamental shrubs but instead<br />
well-pruned fruit trees: limes, lemons, figs, loquats and apples are<br />
just some of the trees in Joe’s Connected Garden. There are three<br />
different blocks and you can travel between the three amazing<br />
gardens to enjoy pruning demonstrations, stalls, edible and<br />
sustainable gardening talks, and plant sales. opengardensa.org.au<br />
TAS<br />
Chudleigh Show<br />
Sat Feb 20<br />
Chudleigh<br />
With the first show held in 1889, this is one of Tasmania’s oldest<br />
shows. It’s an annual event showcasing and promoting the local<br />
agricultural industries with a focus on creating a great family day<br />
and showing the best of what the local area has to offer. You can<br />
camp or park a caravan on the grassed areas in the showgrounds.<br />
The Chudleigh Agricultural and Horticultural Society is one of the<br />
oldest in Tasmania and Chudleigh itself is a charming little village<br />
located between Deloraine and Mole Creek. chudleighshow.com.au,<br />
facebook.com/Chudleigh-Agricultural-Horticultural-Society<br />
QLD<br />
<strong>2016</strong> Ginger Flower and Food Festival<br />
Fri Jan 22 to Sun Jan 24<br />
The Ginger Factory, 50 Pioneer Rd, Yandina<br />
The 20th Ginger Flower and Food Festival will have an exciting<br />
lineup of local kitchen masters and gardening experts over three<br />
days of fabulous flowers, delicious food and entertainment for all.<br />
There will be live cooking demonstrations and garden talks that<br />
explore the processes of planting, growing, harvesting and cooking<br />
with gingers. Visitors will be treated to a visual feast of vibrant<br />
colour with a 3m-high central floral display. Ornamental gingers<br />
and heliconias will be for sale throughout the festival, with plant<br />
varieties suited to all garden sizes. gingerfactory.com.au<br />
VIC<br />
Seymour Alternative Farming Expo <strong>2016</strong><br />
Fri Feb 19 to Sun Feb 21<br />
Kings Park, Seymour<br />
Showcasing the latest in alternative farming and rural lifestyles,<br />
the Seymour Alternative Farming Expo will have more than 500<br />
sites on show at Seymour’s picturesque Kings Park Reserve. There<br />
will be plenty to see and do for everyone, from country cooking<br />
to chainsaw carving, plus hundreds of animals, including cattle,<br />
sheep, goats, pigs, alpacas, camels and chooks, along with the<br />
latest in alternative power generation, musical entertainment,<br />
furniture, art, food and wine. seymour-expo.com<br />
WA<br />
Garden Clubs & Societies Plant Fair<br />
Sat Feb 27 to Sun Feb 28<br />
South Perth Community Centre, Sandgate St, South Perth<br />
The Western Australian Horticultural Council Inc represents<br />
amateur horticulture in WA and organises two plant fairs<br />
annually to allow members to promote their plants and activities<br />
to the public. For more information on the coming event,<br />
contact Helen, email hortwa@fuzenet.com.au or<br />
horticulturalcouncil.com.au<br />
NSW<br />
Milkwood Passata Day <strong>2016</strong><br />
Sat Jan 30, 3pm–7pm<br />
107 Rooftop Garden, 107 Redfern St, Redfern<br />
A day of tomato squishing, bottling, feasting and making merry,<br />
with a hands-on, rolling session of passata making, followed by<br />
cooking fresh pasta for lunch to go alongside a fresher-than-fresh<br />
passata sauce, summer herbs and other simple pleasures. Lunch<br />
will be followed by more passata making, salsa-meets-dancehallmeets-reggae<br />
tunes, and virgin (or otherwise) Marys. Go home with<br />
bottles of freshly made organic passata, new friends, and new skills.<br />
The 107 Rooftop Garden is an inner-city food system of vertical<br />
gardens, intensive vegie beds, aquaponics, beehives, dappled shady<br />
nooks and lots of hands-on opportunities to learn. milkwood.net<br />
94 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>
People’s<br />
Choice<br />
GARDEN IDEA<br />
AWARDS <strong>2016</strong><br />
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Carrot<br />
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Carrot seeds are best sown where they are<br />
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Botanical name: Daucus carota ssp. sativus<br />
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NEWSAGENT
Directory<br />
The Greener Plant®<br />
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ctn21102
Directory<br />
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Australian owned and operated
Directory<br />
It’s no surprise that Troforte® is fast<br />
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Directory<br />
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