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1. Good Organic Gardening - January-February 2016

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grow naturally, eat fresh, live sustainably<br />

JANUARY/FEBRUARY<br />

JENNIFER<br />

STACKHOUSE<br />

GARDENING<br />

CHALLENGE<br />

GROWING<br />

TRUFFLES<br />

CLEVER CROPS<br />

DRAGON FRUIT<br />

& MOUSE MELON<br />

+ WHAT NEEDS DOING<br />

IN YOUR PATCH<br />

GARDEN TO TABLE<br />

BEETROOT | PASSIONFRUIT<br />

PARSNIP | SWEET CORN<br />

MELISSA KING<br />

HEIRLOOM STRAWBERRIES<br />

LETTUCE | RADISHES<br />

+ WHAT’S HOT<br />

THIS SEASON<br />

HOW TO<br />

Brew<br />

BIM<br />

(beneficial indigenous<br />

micro-organisms)<br />

for your soil<br />

Vol. 6 No. 5<br />

JAN/FEB <strong>2016</strong><br />

AUS $7.95*<br />

NZ $7.90<br />

(Both incl. GST)<br />

PLUS<br />

• NETTLE | BASIL<br />

• GROUND CONTROL: DIPEL<br />

• MORE IDEAS FOR LITTLE GARDENERS<br />

CLAIRE BICKLE<br />

FIRST AID FOR<br />

FUNGAL FOES<br />

MEGG MILLER<br />

BANTAM DUCKS —<br />

UNBELIEVABLY CUTE!


CONTENTS<br />

14<br />

Contents<br />

72<br />

6 Managing Editor’s Note<br />

Mid-summer and it’s hot hot<br />

hot in the garden!<br />

8 The Grapevine<br />

Aussie summers mean invasion<br />

of the insects — can we learn<br />

to live with them, wonders<br />

Jo Immig<br />

10 What’s Hot<br />

Horticulturist Melissa King<br />

profiles some lovely specimens<br />

to spice up your garden<br />

12 & 14 Clever Crops<br />

Jennifer Stackhouse looks at two<br />

clever crops: cute little mouse<br />

melon and exotic dragon fruit<br />

26<br />

16 Plant Profile<br />

How many kinds of basil are<br />

there? Lots. Some are purple and<br />

some are even perennials<br />

20 Power Plant<br />

Stinging nettle is highly<br />

nutritious, quite delicious and as<br />

easy to grow as a weed<br />

22 Family Heirloom<br />

Who can resist sweet, fragrant<br />

heirloom strawberries, from white<br />

to yellow to bright crimson<br />

26 <strong>Gardening</strong> Folk<br />

A passion for herb growing and a<br />

desire for self-sufficiency are the<br />

driving forces behind the Nankas’<br />

productive garden and business<br />

30 <strong>Gardening</strong> Folk<br />

Meet Danny, a man who knows<br />

the importance of bees to our<br />

lives and values them so much<br />

he has made his garden a haven<br />

for them<br />

34 <strong>Gardening</strong> Folk<br />

Growing up in crowded Beirut,<br />

Farouk Khaled dreamed of<br />

owning enough land to grow<br />

whatever he wanted. In Australia,<br />

the dream came true<br />

38 Time to Plant<br />

A couple of salad stars are<br />

perfect to plant — or keep<br />

planting — right now: lettuce<br />

and radish<br />

4 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


CONTENTS<br />

8<br />

22<br />

40 Things to Do<br />

Heat and humidity in many<br />

climate zones mean keeping<br />

a watchful eye for problems —<br />

while harvesting heaps<br />

44 Short Shoots<br />

Innovative and imaginative<br />

ideas for your garden from our<br />

young organic gardener<br />

46 Weekend <strong>Gardening</strong><br />

Claire Bickle continues with<br />

gardening activities for the<br />

kids, including a cute growing<br />

project that even apartment<br />

dwellers can take on<br />

50 <strong>Gardening</strong> Challenge<br />

What’s the kerfuffle over<br />

truffles? Can you grow them<br />

at home? Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

has some answers<br />

54 Plant Health<br />

Claire Bickle continues her<br />

round-up of warm-weather<br />

nuisances, this time diseases<br />

rather than creepy-crawlies<br />

58 Safer Solutions<br />

Dipel is an organically approved<br />

solution to a bad caterpillar<br />

problem. Angie Thomas explains<br />

what it is and how it works<br />

62 The Shed<br />

Just as beneficial microorganisms<br />

keep our bodies<br />

healthy, soil has its microflora,<br />

too, which you can make more<br />

of to give your soil a boost<br />

66 Feathered Friends<br />

According to Megg Miller, there<br />

are few cuter pets than little<br />

bantam ducks — and you get<br />

eggs from them<br />

70 Garden to Table<br />

Four seasonal edibles — how to<br />

grow, harvest, store and preserve<br />

— with healthy, delicious recipes<br />

from chef Joanna Rushton<br />

89 What’s Hot From<br />

Our Advertisers<br />

Our Pick of the Crop of products<br />

and services for gardeners and<br />

cooks, plus a few books<br />

94 What’s On<br />

A selection of events to interest<br />

gardeners and foodies<br />

78<br />

50<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 5


grow naturally, eat fresh, live sustainably<br />

Editor Kerry Boyne<br />

Designer Jess Middleton<br />

Contributors Claire Bickle, Jana Holmer,<br />

Jo Immig, Melissa King, Megg Miller,<br />

Joanna Rushton, Chris Stafford,<br />

Erina Starkey, Jennifer Stackhouse,<br />

Sandra Tuszynska<br />

Food Photography<br />

Kerry Boyne<br />

Advertising Manager Miriam Keen<br />

Ph: 02 9887 0604 | Fax: 02 9878 5553<br />

Mob: 0414 969 693<br />

Email: mkeen@universalmagazines.com.au<br />

Advertising Production Co-ordinator<br />

Hannah Felton<br />

Cover Photo Getty Images<br />

Chairman/CEO Prema Perera<br />

Publisher Janice Williams<br />

Chief Financial Officer Vicky Mahadeva<br />

Associate Publisher Karen Day<br />

Associate Publisher Emma Perera<br />

Circulation Director Mark Darton<br />

Creative Director Kate Podger<br />

Editorial & Production Manager<br />

Anastasia Casey<br />

Production Executive<br />

Renu Bhatt<br />

Prepress Manager Ivan Fitz-Gerald<br />

Marketing & Acquisitions Manager<br />

Chelsea Peters<br />

Subscription enquiries: 1300 303 414<br />

Circulation enquiries to our Sydney head office: (02) 9805 0399<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> Vol. 6 No. 5 is published by Universal Magazines,<br />

Unit 5, 6–8 Byfield Street, North Ryde NSW 2113. Phone: (02)<br />

9805 0399, Fax: (02) 9805 0714. Melbourne office: Suite 4, Level 1,<br />

150 Albert Road, South Melbourne Vic 3025. Phone: (03) 9694 6444,<br />

Fax: (03) 9699 7890. Printed by KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd, Singapore.<br />

Distributed by Network Services, Phone: (02) 9282 8777. UK Distributor:<br />

KLM Partnership, Phone: +44 019 9244 7544. Singapore<br />

& Malaysia Distributor: Carkit (F.E.) Pte Ltd, 1 Charlton Lane, #01-<br />

02, Singapore 539631, Phone: +65 6282 1960, Fax: +65 6382 3021,<br />

Website: www.carkitfe.com.<br />

This magazine may have some content that is advertorial or<br />

promotional in nature. This book is copyright. Apart from any<br />

fair dealing for the purpose of private study, research, criticism<br />

or review as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be<br />

reproduced by any process without written permission. Enquiries<br />

should be addressed to the publishers. The publishers believe all<br />

the information supplied in this book to be correct at the time of<br />

printing. They are not, however, in a position to make a guarantee<br />

to this effect and accept no liability in the event of any information<br />

proving inaccurate. Prices, addresses and phone numbers were,<br />

after investigation and to the best of our knowledge and belief, up<br />

to date at the time of printing, but the shifting sands of time may<br />

change them in some cases. It is not possible for the publishers<br />

to ensure that advertisements which appear in this publication<br />

comply with the Trade Practices Act, 1974. The responsibility<br />

must therefore be on the person, company or advertising agency<br />

submitting the advertisements for publication. While every<br />

endeavour has been made to ensure complete accuracy, the<br />

publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.<br />

This magazine is printed on paper produced in a mill which meets<br />

Certified Environmental Management System ISO4001 since 1995<br />

and EMAS since 1996.<br />

Please pass on or recycle this magazine.<br />

ISSN 1837-9206<br />

Copyright © Universal Magazines MMXV<br />

ACN 003 026 944<br />

universalmagazines.com.au<br />

Welcome<br />

to the issue<br />

As we are putting this issue together,<br />

it’s not even summer yet and we’re<br />

having 37-degree days — in spring!<br />

By the time you are reading this mag,<br />

it has no doubt been even hotter. Do you have<br />

insect problems — in the garden and your<br />

living spaces? Read Jo Immig’s column to get a<br />

different outlook on all the tiny, helpful creatures<br />

that inhabit out world.<br />

Of course, there is another side to the story.<br />

Though we may be willing to share our crops<br />

with them — who cares about a few holes here<br />

and there? — there are times when they are so<br />

numerous they want to devour the lot and leave<br />

us nothing; that’s when we sometimes decide to<br />

control them in a very targeted way. Caterpillars,<br />

for example. Angie Thomas discusses Bacillus<br />

thuringiensis, also known as Bt or Dipel, and<br />

how it can be used to keep their numbers to<br />

a manageable level.<br />

As well as helpful (and less helpful) insects,<br />

there are many many beneficial bacteria in our<br />

gardens, as there are in our bodies; and just as<br />

you can supplement with doses of probiotics<br />

when your levels are down, it’s possible to<br />

also boost the numbers of indigenous microorganisms<br />

in your soil. Sandra Tuszynska<br />

shows step by step how to make a batch of BIM<br />

(beneficial indigenous micro-organisms).<br />

Still in the realm of the tiny, Megg Miller<br />

introduces us to gorgeous little bantam ducks.<br />

I must confess I was unaware of these lovely<br />

little feathered friends, even though I love<br />

bantam chickens. Check them out — they’re as<br />

cute as a baby’s bath duckie.<br />

Of course, it’s still holidays and therefore,<br />

says Claire Bickle, a great time to get the kids<br />

out in the garden learning where their food<br />

comes from, how to produce it themselves and<br />

all about the other co-residents, from tiny lady<br />

beetles to beautiful butterflies. There’s also<br />

a fun growing project that any child can do,<br />

even those who live in apartments. Claire also<br />

continues her series on dealing with problems in<br />

the patch, this issue focusing on diseases rather<br />

than creepy crawlies and flying foes.<br />

Jennifer Stackhouse shows that even crops<br />

can be cute, such as little mouse melon (OK,<br />

there’s an abundance of cuteness this issue).<br />

They can be exotic as well: hot-pink dragon fruit<br />

with their night-blooming flowers. Then there<br />

are the everyday: passionfruit, beetroot, parsnip<br />

and sweet corn from Jennifer and lettuce and<br />

radishes from Melissa King. Melissa also covers<br />

alpine strawberries, which are smaller than<br />

modern varieties but worth growing for their<br />

abundant harvest and fragrant flavour.<br />

Have you noticed truffle-inoculated trees<br />

for sale in one of the big hardware chains and<br />

wondered if you should give it a go? In fact,<br />

are truffles something the home gardener can<br />

tackle? Jennifer has some answers for those<br />

who love a big challenge. And just think how big<br />

the rewards could be if you were successful.<br />

Up front, Melissa also introduces some<br />

plants worth considering for your garden,<br />

both decorative and edible, and as usual down<br />

the back Jo Rushton, aka the <strong>Organic</strong> Chef,<br />

shows how to turn your harvest into simple but<br />

delicious dishes, including a temptingly rich<br />

chocolate cake made with beetroot — believe it!<br />

Wishing you a relaxing summer, a happy New<br />

Year and an abundant harvest,<br />

Kerry<br />

We are a member of<br />

See us on facebook at www.facebook.com/<strong>Good</strong><strong>Organic</strong><strong>Gardening</strong>Magazine<br />

or contact us via email : infoGOG@universalmagazines.com.au


Veggies picked ripe from your own<br />

garden taste better and are more<br />

nutritious. The Scotts Pure <strong>Organic</strong><br />

range of soils and plant foods are<br />

certified organic and have no added<br />

chemicals. They feed for three<br />

months, so your plants get all the<br />

essential nutrients they need.<br />

For expert gardening advice call 1800 804 219 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm) or visit scottspureorganic.com.au


THE GRAPEVINE | News<br />

the grapevine<br />

Environmental news and updates compiled by Jo Immig<br />

The Richmond<br />

birdwing butterfly<br />

Living with insects<br />

Insects, on the whole, get a bad rap. Sure,<br />

they can ruin a picnic and a good night’s<br />

sleep, but does that warrant an all-out<br />

war on bugs?<br />

Ever since pesticides were redeployed<br />

after World War II to kill insects instead<br />

of people, pesticide use has skyrocketed<br />

with no apparent end in sight. Dousing the<br />

planet in pesticides is having a significant<br />

impact on insect numbers and diversity.<br />

It’s also messing with our health as a<br />

growing number of pesticide residues<br />

are being detected in our bodies and the<br />

environment, causing impacts ranging<br />

from the feminism of frogs to cancers.<br />

Insects are the most diverse organisms<br />

on Earth, representing three-quarters of<br />

the animal kingdom — an evolutionary<br />

feat to be admired. Insect diversity is<br />

greatest in tropical regions, which are<br />

being destroyed at a rapid rate across<br />

the globe.<br />

Around 1 million of an estimated 2–6<br />

million insect species have been classified.<br />

Despite their prolific numbers, it’s thought<br />

that around 52 per cent of insect species<br />

are at risk of extinction, according to<br />

Endangered Species International. Many<br />

species have probably become extinct<br />

without ever being observed or recorded.<br />

A few years ago, I went to a talk given<br />

by David Suzuki in my hometown of<br />

Bangalow, NSW. It was a hot summer’s<br />

night and the windows and doors of the<br />

community hall were left open for the<br />

breeze. “Where are all the insects?”<br />

Suzuki asked. Given the subtropical<br />

climate, the room should have been<br />

teeming with them and yet there were<br />

few and it was strangely silent outside.<br />

The region where I live was stripped of<br />

99 per cent of its rainforest cover during<br />

the 19th century as the timber cutters<br />

and dairy industry took over, and many<br />

species died off. There’s a concerted effort<br />

to bring some insects back from the brink,<br />

including the Richmond birdwing butterfly<br />

(Ornithoptera richmondia), once abundant<br />

in the area. I’ve only had the pleasure of<br />

seeing one in our garden because we<br />

planted the specific vine it feeds on. It was<br />

just magnificent with its giant iridescent<br />

green and black wings and a splash of red<br />

on its thorax.<br />

Like other animals, insects occupy<br />

While most of us know the<br />

plight of the European<br />

honeybee, an essential<br />

pollinating insect, not so<br />

many are aware of the<br />

numerous other species<br />

of pollinating insects that<br />

are also at risk or are<br />

already extinct.<br />

restricted small ranges, making their<br />

populations highly vulnerable to humaninduced<br />

extinctions as habitats are<br />

disturbed and destroyed.<br />

We gardeners know how dependent<br />

we are on some insects to pollinate<br />

plants that produce the food we eat and<br />

that they’re a fundamental part of the<br />

functioning ecosystem all species depend<br />

on. While most of us know the plight of<br />

the European honeybee, an essential<br />

pollinating insect, not so many are<br />

aware of the numerous other species of<br />

pollinating insects that are also at risk<br />

or already extinct.<br />

The Australian pesticide regulator, the<br />

APVMA, does not properly assess the<br />

impact of pesticides on pollinating insects such<br />

as bees when it registers pesticide products.<br />

For the sake of preventing the damage caused<br />

by a few insects to crops, all other insects<br />

are killed, many of them beneficial.<br />

It’s difficult to find accurate figures for<br />

the volume of pesticides used globally<br />

each year, but the overall trend indicates<br />

pesticide use is on the increase. The<br />

introduction of genetically engineered<br />

crops, which were initially touted as a<br />

way to reduce pesticides, has in fact<br />

significantly contributed to the increase.<br />

Only aggregated sales figures for<br />

pesticides are available in Australia. There<br />

are no usage data, so we have no idea<br />

what volume of pesticides is applied to<br />

the Australian environment each year.<br />

Based on registrations of pesticide<br />

products, however, we do know that up to<br />

30 per cent of all pesticide products are<br />

registered for non-agricultural purposes,<br />

including urban pest control and house<br />

and garden products.<br />

By making better choices you can help<br />

insects survive and thrive:<br />

Plant native trees, shrubs and flowers<br />

for your region, to create habitat for<br />

local insects.<br />

Avoid hybrids and “double bloom”<br />

varieties because insects often can’t<br />

get to the nectar as their mouthparts<br />

are not adapted to the task.<br />

Avoid using outdoor “bug zappers”<br />

because they indiscriminately kill all<br />

insects and usually fail to attract the<br />

insects, such as mosquitoes, that<br />

people are hoping to avoid.<br />

Use fly screens on windows and<br />

doors and draft excluders to minimise<br />

unwanted insects indoors.<br />

Leave areas of wildness and use<br />

natural ground covers in your garden<br />

to encourage insect diversity.<br />

Use only open-pollinated, certified<br />

organic seeds and other inputs in<br />

your garden.<br />

Check when purchasing potted plants<br />

as many potting mixes have been<br />

treated with systemic pesticides that<br />

can be transferred to your garden.<br />

Avoid the use of pesticides in your<br />

garden, inside your home or on your<br />

body. There are safer, non-chemical<br />

ways to deal with most situations.<br />

Insects are an integral part of the web<br />

of life on this planet. Destroy a few strands<br />

and the entire web could unravel.<br />

Shutterstock<br />

8 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


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THE SEASONAL GARDEN | With Melissa King<br />

WHAT’S HOT RIGHT NOW<br />

Presenting some of the latest and greatest plants that will make<br />

excellent additions to your garden at this time of year<br />

‘M<br />

other and<br />

Child’ Rose<br />

The plant: ‘Mother and Child’ is the<br />

new sister rose to the beautiful ‘Mother<br />

and Daughter’ rose, following in the<br />

same tradition of raising funds for Motor<br />

Neurone Disease Research. This newest<br />

addition to the family continues the<br />

celebration of the unique bond between<br />

mother and child. It’s a stunning rose<br />

that displays clusters of highly scented<br />

lavender-pink flowers. With up to 10<br />

blooms per stem, it flowers non-stop<br />

from spring right through to autumn.<br />

Growing: Roses like good drainage<br />

and plenty of sunshine. Prepare the soil<br />

well before planting with compost and<br />

organic matter. Feed throughout the<br />

growing season to promote a longlasting<br />

display of colourful blooms.<br />

Design: ‘Mother and Child’ is a hybrid<br />

tea rose with a delightful fragrance, so<br />

make a feature of it in garden beds or<br />

pots where you and your family can<br />

really appreciate the long-flowering<br />

display and wonderful scent.<br />

arigold ‘French<br />

MSunset’<br />

The plant: Now here’s a marigold with a difference.<br />

‘French Sunset’ is a French-style marigold with fiery red<br />

blooms that fade to bronze and deep gold, creating a<br />

blaze of colour in the garden.<br />

Growing: Grow ‘French Sunset’ in a sunny spot in fertile,<br />

well-drained soil. Liquid-feed regularly and remove spent<br />

blooms to prolong your flowering display.<br />

Design: Make a feature of the flaming red flowers in<br />

decorative pots, plant them en masse for a fiery display or<br />

use them to add a splash of vibrant colour to the kitchen<br />

or flower garden.<br />

L‘Blonde oropetalum<br />

’n’<br />

Gorgeous’<br />

The plant: The aptly named ‘Blonde ’n’<br />

Gorgeous’ is just that, with cascading green<br />

foliage and caramel-blonde new growth. In<br />

spring and autumn the plant is laden with<br />

beautiful tasselled white flowers. It grows<br />

to about <strong>1.</strong>5m tall and 2m wide. A plant that<br />

looks good in every season.<br />

Growing: Loropetalum ‘Blonde ’n’ Gorgeous’<br />

grows best in a sunny or partly shaded<br />

position in well-drained soil. It doesn’t<br />

require any pruning unless you want to<br />

shape it and has a low demand for water<br />

once established. Give it a boost with a<br />

slow-release fertiliser after flowering.<br />

Design: Plant it en masse in garden beds<br />

to contrast with burgundy-foliage<br />

plants or make a feature of it in big<br />

Oriental-style pots.<br />

10 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


With Melissa King | THE SEASONAL GARDEN<br />

omato ‘Rapunzel Long<br />

TTrusses’<br />

The plant: A new variety of tomato that really captures the<br />

imagination, with long Rapunzel-like trusses of sweet, glossy red<br />

cherry tomatoes on a <strong>1.</strong>8–2.4m tall plant.<br />

Growing: ‘Rapunzel Long Trusses’ grows best in a sunny, welldrained<br />

spot. Prepare the area first with plenty of organic matter<br />

but don’t overdo the manure or you’ll get lots of leafy growth at the<br />

expense of flowers and fruit. If your soil is quite acidic, incorporate<br />

a bit of lime into the soil before planting.<br />

Design: Tomatoes like room to grow, so make sure you adhere to<br />

the spacing recommended on the back of the seedling tag and use<br />

a good strong stake at planting time to avoid later damage.<br />

Wobble-Tee<br />

Waters a large area up to 15m<br />

diameter, but can be adjusted at<br />

your tap to water smaller areas.<br />

Applies water slowly and evenly<br />

with a consistent droplet size<br />

at pressures from 15 to 40psi.<br />

Will also operate effectively<br />

from as low as 5psi.<br />

Will operate from a town<br />

water supply, pressure pump,<br />

overhead water tank, gravity<br />

fed system, recycled water,<br />

envirocycle system, effluent<br />

re-use, dam, bore or grey water.<br />

No misting on low-medium<br />

pressures.<br />

Average flow rate of 10 LPM.<br />

<br />

Add-On-Ability allows you<br />

to operate more than one<br />

sprinkler from the same tap.<br />

WINNER<br />

Smart Approved WaterMark<br />

2012 Product of the Year<br />

PRESSURE P.S.I 5 10 15 20 25 30 40<br />

APPROX DIAMETER<br />

IN METRES<br />

6.2 12 13.8 14.5 14.8 15 16<br />

USAGE L.P.M 4.1 6 7.3 9.1 10 10.7 13<br />

asabi Salad (Diplotaxis<br />

Werucoides)<br />

The plant: This exotic leafy green will spice up your garden and your<br />

taste-buds. Bite into the soft green foliage for a strong hit of wasabi<br />

flavour. Harvest it leaf by leaf as you need it to give hot or cold salads<br />

a real flavour kick or as a complement to Asian-inspired dishes.<br />

Growing: Wasabi Salad enjoys full sun but, if you’re growing it<br />

through the warmer months, give it dappled light. Plant seedlings<br />

25–30cm apart in rich, well-drained soil.<br />

Design: Grow Wasabi Salad greens in pots close to the house for<br />

easy picking or plant it in groups or rows in the salad garden to<br />

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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 11


CLEVER CROP | Mouse melon<br />

Cucumber’s<br />

cool cousin<br />

Is the mouse melon a cucumber or is it a<br />

melon? We could call it a cucamelon<br />

Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

If I were to give a vegetable an award for<br />

cuteness, the mouse melon would win hands<br />

down. It looks like a watermelon for the little<br />

folk. The small fruit, which are produced<br />

prolifically, is light green with darker green<br />

stripes, and about 3cm long. Its cuteness makes<br />

it highly appealing to children and could entice<br />

vegetable-phobic kids to eat their greens.<br />

Although known as a melon, it is better<br />

described as a tiny cucumber. The fruit is<br />

crunchy and can be eaten skin and all. It has<br />

a cucumber-like taste with a slight sour kick<br />

from the skin. It’s eaten raw like a cucumber,<br />

diced as a salsa or sliced and added to<br />

a stirfry. I’ve even seen it suggested as<br />

a substitute for an olive in a martini!<br />

Like many in the cucurbit family, this vine<br />

produces male and female flowers on the<br />

same vine. The flowers are tiny and yellow. The<br />

female flowers form fruit after receiving pollen<br />

from the flowers on the same or another plant.<br />

These plants come from Mexico (where they<br />

are called sandita) and Central America where<br />

Its cuteness makes it<br />

highly appealing to<br />

children and could<br />

entice vegetable-phobic<br />

kids to eat their greens.<br />

Mouse melon Label<br />

Common names: Mouse melon,<br />

cucamelon, Mexican sour cucumber<br />

Botanical name: Melothria scabra<br />

Family: Cucurbitaceae (cucumber<br />

family)<br />

Requires: Full sun, well-drained soil<br />

Dislikes: Frost, cold conditions<br />

Suitable for: Trellis, fence, pergola<br />

Habit: Annual or perennial vine<br />

Needs: Support<br />

Propagation: Seed<br />

Difficulty: Easy<br />

they have long been in cultivation. Despite their<br />

charms and the fact that they are quite easy to<br />

grow, they are still rare in our gardens.<br />

Growing tips<br />

Mouse melon needs a long warm period to grow,<br />

flower and form fruit. In cool and temperate<br />

areas, plant seed in spring as you would plant<br />

cucumbers and grow the plants through<br />

summer for harvesting in late summer and<br />

autumn. In warmer zones mouse melon can be<br />

planted and harvested year round.<br />

These are vigorous plants that need<br />

support. Vines can reach 3m or more high<br />

when encouraged onto a wire fence, arbour<br />

or tepee. They are ideal for a sunny balcony<br />

or courtyard as they are productive in a large<br />

container and grown on a wire frame.<br />

Finding seed<br />

Mouse melon is available from online<br />

seed specialists but may be listed under<br />

any one of its many names. If you can’t<br />

find it under mouse melon, try cucamelon<br />

or Mexican sour cucumber.<br />

Shutterstock<br />

12 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


CLEVER CROP | Dragon fruit<br />

Pretty in pink<br />

If the mouse melon gets our award for<br />

cuteness, dragon fruit earns accolades for<br />

its brilliant colour<br />

Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

Ripe dragon fruit are as spectacular as<br />

the mouse melon (page 14) is cute: hot<br />

pink with lime-green scales. When cut<br />

open, the contrast between the pink<br />

outer skin and white flesh peppered with tiny<br />

black seeds is striking.<br />

Because of this eye-catching appearance,<br />

they are popular in restaurants and with<br />

caterers. These fruits are often first discovered<br />

on the fruit platter at a breakfast buffet in a hotel<br />

while holidaying in Asia, where they are widely<br />

grown and sold at markets and on juice stands.<br />

They are also sold in Australia at<br />

greengrocers and produce markets, and<br />

sometimes may even be encountered in the<br />

supermarket, but are treated as a curiosity.<br />

While the pink form with white flesh is the<br />

most dramatic variety, there are also species<br />

with red, yellow or green fruit. The flavour of<br />

dragon fruit is rather bland, though, especially<br />

compared with its over-the-top appearance.<br />

Growing tips<br />

If you are intrigued by the very idea of an<br />

edible cactus, let alone such a vibrantly<br />

coloured one, the next step may be to try<br />

to grow these plants in the garden or in<br />

large containers. They are best in a warm<br />

Dragon fruit are nightflowering<br />

cacti. They<br />

bloom overnight and<br />

resemble discarded<br />

balloons by the morning.<br />

temperate, subtropical or tropical climate.<br />

They can be grown from seed but are most<br />

easily propagated from a cutting from another<br />

plant. Provide a support for the cactus (it’s a<br />

climber) and ensure it’s planted in well-drained<br />

soil in a spot that’s sheltered from frost and<br />

cold and from full sun. Then be patient. Plants<br />

may grow vigorously but take time to flower<br />

and form fruit. Once flowering begins, it can<br />

occur throughout the year. Fruit forms best<br />

in humid conditions.<br />

Dragon fruit are night-flowering cacti: they<br />

bloom overnight and resemble discarded<br />

balloons by the morning. Nocturnal animals such<br />

as bats or night-flying insects such as moths<br />

are needed to pollinate the flowers. While they<br />

can be self-fertile, crops are more reliable<br />

where there’s more than one plant growing.<br />

Prune flowered stems to encourage new<br />

growth and more flowering.<br />

Dragon<br />

fruit Label<br />

Common name: Dragon fruit, pitahaya<br />

Botanical name: Hylocereus undatus<br />

Family: Cactaceae (cactus family)<br />

Requires: Full sun, well-drained soil,<br />

regular fertiliser<br />

Dislikes: Frost, prolonged cold<br />

conditions<br />

Suitable for: Trellis, fence, wall, post<br />

Habit: Climbing cactus<br />

Needs: May need hand pollination<br />

Propagation: Cutting (leaf)<br />

Difficulty: Easy<br />

Another<br />

edible cactus<br />

Dragon fruit isn’t the only edible cactus.<br />

Prickly pear (a weed in Australia)<br />

produces edible fruit and pads (leaves).<br />

This is a spiky customer, so harvest and<br />

eat with caution!<br />

Shutterstock<br />

14 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


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PLANT PROFILE | Basil<br />

16 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Basil | PLANT PROFILE<br />

All hail King<br />

Basil<br />

The king of herbs is the stuff of legend as well as<br />

the magic ingredient in everything from pasta to<br />

curries and stirfries<br />

Shutterstock, Choking Sun CC<br />

Words Chris Stafford<br />

If ever a plant were poised between<br />

heaven and hell, it would be Ocimum<br />

basilicum, otherwise known as basil.<br />

In India and Haiti, the herb is used to<br />

ward off evil. In parts of Mexico, it supposedly<br />

attracts good fortune. Some ancients<br />

believed it opened the gates of paradise for<br />

the dying, while others saw it as a symbol of<br />

the Devil. The Romans were convinced that if<br />

you chopped it up and put it under a rock,<br />

a scorpion would be born.<br />

A royal plant or a symbol of poverty, a<br />

poison or a panacea — whatever the legend,<br />

basil is believed to be native to India, where<br />

it’s considered sacred and has been used<br />

ceremonially and medicinally for 5000 years.<br />

In fact, in courts of law under British rule,<br />

Hindus were allowed to swear on holy basil<br />

(O. tenuiflorum) instead of the Bible.<br />

The word we use for the herb almost<br />

certainly comes from the Greek basileus,<br />

meaning “king”. Related words are basilica<br />

(originally a royal doorway; later, a church)<br />

and basilisk, a mythical evil serpent that had<br />

a crown-shaped mark on its head. The sacred<br />

Thai basil<br />

and the profane, again. Even today, basil is<br />

known as the king of herbs — in French,<br />

l’herbe royale. Mind you, the French once<br />

used the expression semer le basilic (“to sow<br />

basil”) to denote ranting and raving. This<br />

could have its origins in the ancient Roman<br />

belief that the herb should be planted to the<br />

accompaniment of loud oaths.<br />

“There is no seed more prolific than that of<br />

ocimum,” wrote Pliny the Elder. “It is generally<br />

recommended to sow it with the utterance<br />

of curses and imprecations, the result being<br />

that it grows all the better for it.”<br />

Basil may be a sturdy plant, but this<br />

is probably not the planting method<br />

we’d recommend.<br />

Growing<br />

Basil, a member of the mint family<br />

(Lamiaceae), is a herbaceous plant,<br />

usually an annual, with a prolific growth<br />

of bright green leaves — sometimes purple<br />

— and a sweetly pungent, aniseed or clovelike<br />

fragrance.<br />

The herb is frost tender, so it grows best in<br />

summer and throughout the year in warmer<br />

The French once<br />

used the expression<br />

semer le basilic (“to<br />

sow basil”) to denote<br />

ranting and raving.<br />

This could have its<br />

origins in the ancient<br />

Roman belief that the<br />

herb should be planted<br />

to the accompaniment<br />

of loud oaths.<br />

parts of Australia, preferably in light, dry soil<br />

and full sun, or at least six hours of sunlight<br />

a day. It produces spikes of white, pink or<br />

mauve flowers that need to be pinched off so<br />

the leaves keep producing oils.<br />

The plant grows from 30–130cm tall and<br />

can be propagated via seed or cuttings.<br />

Some varieties<br />

Annuals<br />

‘Sweet Basil’ (O. basilicum) is the most<br />

familiar of basil’s 160-odd varieties. The<br />

perfect complement to tomatoes, it’s an<br />

essential in the cuisine of Italy, where it’s<br />

said that a dish without basil leaves is “like<br />

a beautiful woman without a soul”. There<br />

are several Italian varieties, but ‘Basilico<br />

Genovese’ is the large-leaved cultivar used<br />

for genoese pesto, the classic pasta sauce of<br />

basil, olive oil, garlic, pine nuts and cheese.<br />

There are also purple-leaved varieties such<br />

as ‘Purpureum’ and ‘Purple Ruffles’.<br />

‘Thai basil’ (O. basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is<br />

the variety used in Southeast Asian dishes<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 17


PLANT PROFILE | Basil<br />

Small-leaf Greek basil<br />

Holy basil<br />

cramps, migraines, anxiety and depression,<br />

which is not surprising given that it’s in<br />

the mint family.<br />

Basil contains chemicals that repel<br />

household pests and some experiments<br />

indicate it is toxic to mosquitoes. Rubbing<br />

some leaves on the skin is a useful,<br />

natural repellent to flies and mozzies.<br />

Planting tomatoes and basil together is<br />

said to deter whiteflies, aphids, beetles<br />

and other pests as well as improve the<br />

flavour of the tomatoes, but the evidence<br />

is anecdotal at best. Still, it can’t do any<br />

harm — and all you need for the perfect<br />

pasta sauce will be close at hand.<br />

‘Dark Opal’<br />

such as pho, the hearty Vietnamese beef or<br />

chicken soup, as well as in Malaysian and<br />

Indonesian curries. Also popular in Asia are<br />

minty lemon basil (O. × citriodorum) and holy<br />

basil or tulsi (O. sanctum or O. tenuiflorum),<br />

which is sacred to Hindus.<br />

‘Greek basil’ (O. obovatum) is a compact,<br />

fine-leaved but pungent miniature that can<br />

be grown in a pot and is often used dried.<br />

Perennials<br />

‘African Blue’, also known as camphor basil<br />

(O. kilimandscharicum), has a complex,<br />

peppery, camphor-like scent. A sterile hybrid,<br />

it’s one of the few perennial basils.<br />

Lime basil (O. americanum), also called<br />

hoary basil, spicy basil, limehairy basil and<br />

many other names, is a magnet for bees. With<br />

a spicier taste and stronger smell than sweet<br />

basil, it’s often used for medicinal purposes.<br />

Basil perennial (O. gratissimum) is a fastgrowing<br />

native of India, Sri Lanka, Java and<br />

tropical America and Africa. Its strong clove<br />

smell makes it an excellent insect repellent<br />

as well as an ideal addition to soups,<br />

curries and stirfries.<br />

Nutrition &<br />

medicinal properties<br />

Basil is rich in vitamins A, B 6 , C and K and<br />

minerals such as iron, manganese and<br />

magnesium. Recent studies have found<br />

it to possess antimicrobial, antiviral and<br />

antioxidant properties and it may be useful<br />

in cancer treatment.<br />

In folk medicine, basil, a mild stimulant, has<br />

been used (often in the form of tea) for the<br />

treatment of constipation, flatulence, stomach<br />

Holy basil<br />

As with all ancient plants, legends abound<br />

about the king of herbs. The story<br />

goes that Saint Helena, the mother of<br />

Constantine, was led to the site of the True<br />

Cross by the trail of basil that sprang up<br />

wherever the blood of Christ had fallen<br />

during his crucifixion. According to John’s<br />

gospel, the word basileus (Greek for “king”,<br />

as we know) appeared on the cross itself<br />

in the Greek part of the inscription that<br />

read “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews”.<br />

Lemon basil<br />

Genovese basil<br />

Basil any time<br />

What to do once your plants have<br />

bolted to seed and there are no more<br />

succulent leaves? Well, before that<br />

happens, you need to get some ready<br />

to freeze.<br />

Wash, pat dry and chop your basil<br />

leaves. Mix olive oil and leaves two to<br />

one. Spoon the mixture into ice-cube<br />

trays and freeze. Once frozen, the cubes<br />

can be stored in an airtight container or<br />

plastic bag for up to a year.<br />

Clove basil, also African basil<br />

Sweet basil<br />

Shutterstock, Kembengraps CC, Swallow Tail Seeds CC<br />

18 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


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A plant with attitude<br />

Stinging nettle / Urtica spp.<br />

Why would you grow something with “sting” in its<br />

name? Because it has a multitude of health benefits,<br />

tastes good and grows like a weed<br />

Words Kerry Boyne<br />

There’s hardly a weed that hasn’t been<br />

used as food by someone, somewhere.<br />

Fennel, which grows in wild profusion<br />

all over Sicily, its bright yellow flowers<br />

a harbinger of spring, is central to Sicilian cuisine.<br />

The Cretans use everything from endives and<br />

beet leaves to wild rocket and dandelion greens<br />

in their cooking. Other weeds commonly used as<br />

food include wild celery, watercress, purslane and<br />

borage. And then there’s nettle.<br />

Familiarly known as stinging nettle — the<br />

fluid in the barb-like hairs on its leaves and stem<br />

can inflict a temporary sting — nettle occurs in<br />

Australia as native scrub nettle (Urtica incisa)<br />

and in introduced European varieties U. dioica<br />

(large leaf) and U. urens (small leaf).<br />

The sting is intense but short-lived and can<br />

be relieved by the application of the juice of the<br />

plant itself, though that may involve more stings.<br />

Calamine lotion or even urine can help. The<br />

stinging hairs, or trichomes, are neutralised by<br />

cooking or drying.<br />

Like any self-respecting weed, nettle will<br />

quickly colonise a fertile area such as a cow<br />

paddock and its presence is a sure indication of<br />

good soil. Livestock won’t eat this nutritious crop,<br />

however, probably because of the sting. They<br />

don’t know what they’re missing.<br />

Nettle attracts moths and butterflies, which<br />

feed on it during the larval stage, and is said to<br />

repel flies as well as have a beneficial effect on<br />

other plants such as fruiting trees.<br />

In northern Europe, nettle — like flax and<br />

hemp — was once widely used as a thread to<br />

make everything from clothes to sails and can<br />

even produce green and yellow dyes. Due to a<br />

cotton shortage, it was used to make uniforms<br />

for the German army during the Great War; more<br />

recently, in some European countries, it’s starting<br />

to make a comeback as a textile.<br />

Culinary uses<br />

Nettle is high in vitamins A, C, D and potassium,<br />

manganese and calcium, with more iron than<br />

spinach, to which it has a similar taste. It can<br />

be used in pesto, soups and purees, added to<br />

polenta and smoothies, decocted as a tea or<br />

cordial and, in parts of rural Britain, even brewed<br />

as beer.<br />

The plant is also used in some cheeses,<br />

such as Gouda and Cornish Yarg, as part of<br />

the filling (along with other greens) in Albanian<br />

börek and in some northern Indian, Kashmiri<br />

and Nepalese dishes.<br />

It’s best to use the young leaves before the<br />

plant flowers and sets seed. By then the leaves<br />

may develop tiny gritty calcium carbonate<br />

particles called cystoliths, which can irritate the<br />

uninary tract and even damage the kidneys.<br />

Medicinal uses<br />

Nettle’s history as a folk medicine is long and<br />

diverse. In ancient Greece it was prescribed as a<br />

laxative and diuretic and even today its roots are<br />

approved by the German Commission E as<br />

a remedy for UTIs and prostate conditions. It may<br />

also assist as a blood, liver and kidney tonic.<br />

Aside from the roots, the parts above ground<br />

have been used to treat kidney stones, urinary<br />

complaints, allergies, hay fever, osteoarthritis,<br />

diabetes and poor circulation. It can be applied<br />

as a poultice for muscle aches or used as a<br />

conditioner to control dandruff.<br />

Nettle Tea<br />

Place about 12 fresh leaves (thoroughly<br />

washed first) or a tablespoon of dried<br />

leaves in 1L of water. Bring to the boil<br />

and simmer for about 15 minutes. Strain<br />

and add honey if desired. Serve hot or<br />

refrigerate and drink cold.<br />

Shutterstock<br />

20 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Stinging nettle | POWER PLANT<br />

In the garden, a cold infusion of nettle<br />

leaves may be used to combat aphids or<br />

added to compost to improve its nitrogen<br />

and mineral content. Indeed, nettle works well<br />

simply dug in as a green manure. Add whole<br />

plants to water and leave for 10–14 days to<br />

make a nourishing weed tea for the garden.<br />

Growing nettle<br />

After all is said and done, nettle is a weed and<br />

will generally grow like Topsy. Though we<br />

mentioned it’s a good indicator of rich soil, nettle<br />

will also grow in clay, loamy or sandy soils and<br />

put up with low nutrient levels — anywhere, in<br />

fact, except in soil with high acidity.<br />

Nor is nettle fussy when it comes to high<br />

moisture levels and it will do equally well in damp<br />

clay or poorly drained areas; it’s often found as<br />

an understorey plant in wet environments. Full<br />

sun or shade, that doesn’t matter, either. It’s also<br />

one of few plants that will thrive in soil rich in<br />

poultry manure.<br />

A perennial that grows to 100cm, nettle<br />

is naturally wind propagated but may also<br />

proliferate through division during the<br />

growing season. The flowers are dioecious,<br />

meaning both male and female plants are<br />

required to produce fertile seed. In regions<br />

with cold winters, the plant dies back then<br />

returns in spring.<br />

Where to get it<br />

Plants and seeds of U. doica are available<br />

from online specialist suppliers such as<br />

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com.au, theseedcollection.com.au and<br />

allrareherbs.com.au.<br />

Nettle Parcels<br />

• 200g young nettle leaves<br />

• 1 large onion, finely chopped<br />

• 100g feta cheese<br />

• 100g ricotta cheese<br />

• 1 egg<br />

• 1 tbsp dried oregano<br />

• Pinch nutmeg<br />

• Salt & coarsely ground black pepper,<br />

to taste<br />

• Puff pastry<br />

• Whisked egg for glazing<br />

Wash nettle leaves and wilt in hot water, then<br />

rinse under cold water and dry thoroughly. Press<br />

out all liquid and chop coarsely. Place in a bowl.<br />

Saute onion until softened.<br />

Add onion and other ingredients to the bowl<br />

of leaves and mix thoroughly.<br />

Cut pastry sheets into 4 squares each. Spoon<br />

filling onto one side of triangle, fold and pinch<br />

together. Prick triangle with a fork on one side<br />

and brush with whisked egg.<br />

Bake at 200°C for about 20–30 minutes, until<br />

golden-brown and serve.<br />

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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 21


FAMILY HEIRLOOMS | Strawberries<br />

Alpine strawberries<br />

are smaller and<br />

less juicy than<br />

modern varieties,<br />

but their abundant<br />

foliage, delicate<br />

texture and scented,<br />

flavoursome fruit<br />

make a winning<br />

combination.<br />

Sweet<br />

success<br />

Among the easiest to grow and most loved of<br />

berries, strawberry plants will reward you<br />

richly with their fragrant fruit<br />

Words Melissa King<br />

Photos Diggers Club, diggers.com.au<br />

It’s hardly surprising that the<br />

heart-shaped strawberry should<br />

have such a long and romantic<br />

history. Some of the earliest<br />

records of strawberries are found in<br />

the writings of Roman poets Virgil and<br />

Ovid as far back as the 1st century CE.<br />

In medieval and Renaissance<br />

culture, the fruit embodied goodness<br />

and purity and was often depicted<br />

as a holy symbol of the Virgin Mary.<br />

European aristocracy adored the<br />

fruit. Strawberries and cream was a<br />

noble indulgence, as were strawberry<br />

wine and perfume.<br />

For centuries, Europeans ate<br />

woodland strawberries (Fragaria<br />

vesca) growing wild on the forest<br />

floor, but it was sometime in the<br />

1300s that the French began<br />

cultivating wild strawberries in the<br />

garden. The French king Charles V<br />

is even said to have planted a prized<br />

strawberry patch in his royal garden.<br />

Varieties<br />

The varieties available here in Australia<br />

sold under the umbrella of Alpine<br />

strawberries are mostly cultivated<br />

versions of Fragaria vesca, grown for<br />

their delicate texture and wonderfully<br />

fragrant fruit that fills the garden with<br />

the scent of lollies. The fruit is petite<br />

and squishy and quite a contrast to<br />

the plump modern garden strawberry;<br />

nevertheless it makes a wonderful<br />

addition to the garden.<br />

You’ll love ‘Fraises des Bois’ (syn.<br />

‘Mignonette’), which grows as a leafy<br />

clump to around 30cm tall and produces<br />

a summer crop of petite crimson<br />

berries that melt in your mouth. The<br />

compact-growing, runnerless plants<br />

make a beautiful fruiting border or<br />

decorative potted feature. ‘Reine des<br />

Valles’ is another lovely choice, with<br />

highly scented red fruit that’s best eaten<br />

straight from the bush.<br />

As the names suggests, ‘Red Wonder’<br />

is another very productive crimson<br />

variety, with tiny flowers giving way to<br />

22 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Strawberries | FAMILY HEIRLOOMS<br />

Strawberry label<br />

Common name: Alpine strawberry,<br />

wild strawberry, woodland strawberry,<br />

European strawberry<br />

Botanical name: Fragaria vesca<br />

Family: Rosaceae<br />

Aspect & soil: Full sun to part shade;<br />

fertile, well-drained soil<br />

Best climate: All<br />

Habit: Perennial, semi-deciduous<br />

Propagation: Seed, seedling, division<br />

Difficulty: Easy<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 23


FAMILY HEIRLOOMS | STRAWBERRIES<br />

Above: ‘Pineapple Crush’<br />

Below: Mixed Alpines from Diggers Club include<br />

‘Mignonette’, ‘White Baron Solemacher’, ‘Red Wonder’,<br />

‘Regina’ and ‘Reine des Vallees’<br />

cascades of petite, wonderfully flavoured<br />

fruit from late spring right through to<br />

early autumn. You might also like to try<br />

‘Regina’ with its heavy crop of sweet,<br />

bite-sized fruit in steady supply from<br />

November right through to March.<br />

For something truly unique, look out<br />

for white-fruiting varieties like ‘Baron<br />

Solemacher’, which displays petite white<br />

strawberries that the birds seem to<br />

ignore. I’m not sure if it’s my imagination,<br />

but the white-fruiting types taste sweeter<br />

to me and you don’t have to net them<br />

with the same commitment as with the<br />

red varieties.<br />

‘Pineapple Crush’ is something really<br />

special, with masses of highly scented<br />

white-yellow fruit with just a hint of<br />

pineapple flavour on a compact, nonrunning<br />

plant. You’ll know the fruit is<br />

ready to harvest when it’s soft and pale<br />

yellow. It’s a great variety to grow if you<br />

want to extend your harvest because the<br />

fruit is heaviest in autumn, just as the<br />

summer croppers are finishing.<br />

For centuries, Europeans<br />

ate woodland strawberries<br />

growing wild on the forest<br />

floor but it was sometime in<br />

the 1300s that the French<br />

began cultivating wild<br />

strawberries in the garden.<br />

Their compact, runnerless form makes them ideal for garden edging<br />

Growing<br />

There are some very good reasons to grow<br />

Alpine strawberries at home, not least of which<br />

is their ability to tantalise the tastebuds. Just<br />

a few ripe fruit can scent the air, announcing<br />

their arrival, which is a big reason they often<br />

don’t make it inside at all.<br />

The ripe crop is staggered over months, so<br />

there’s lots of picking to be done and, because<br />

the fruits are delicate and easy to squish, you<br />

rarely see them in the shops. Their neat growth<br />

habit makes them an excellent choice for pots<br />

and hanging baskets or garden edging.<br />

Like plump modern-day varieties, Alpine<br />

strawberries grow best in rich, fertile, welldrained<br />

soil. They can be grown from seed<br />

sown during spring or summer and they<br />

enjoy sunny spots but will benefit from part<br />

shade in hot areas.<br />

Feed and water regularly, particularly when<br />

the fruit is setting, and they’ll crop well for<br />

three or so years. Ripe Alpine strawberries<br />

last only a short time, so visit your strawberry<br />

patch regularly to pick the fully ripe, fully<br />

coloured fruit.<br />

Alpine strawberries are smaller and<br />

less juicy than modern varieties, but their<br />

abundant foliage, delicate texture and scented,<br />

flavoursome fruit make a winning combination.<br />

Because the temptation is so great to pick and<br />

eat them fresh from the plant, you rarely get<br />

enough to use in the kitchen. If some manage<br />

to make it indoors, I think they are best eaten<br />

simply with a dollop of cream or ice-cream or<br />

— dare I say it — just a sprinkle of sugar.<br />

For more information, visit diggers.com.au<br />

Pick daily as they don’t last long<br />

Unripe ‘Fraises des Bois’<br />

24 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


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GARDENING FOLK | Farouk & Magda Khaled<br />

The urban<br />

gardener<br />

Growing up in crowded Beirut, Farouk Khaled dreamed of owning enough land<br />

to grow whatever he wanted. In Australia, the dream came true<br />

Words & photos Jana Holmer<br />

Farouk Khaled marvels at the memory<br />

of gardening on his tiny balcony in<br />

the Lebanese capital, Beirut — in his<br />

words, “an overbuilt, traffic-clogged<br />

concrete jungle” of 2 million people.<br />

Even in that crowded, war-torn city of<br />

high-rise apartments with no yard space,<br />

Farouk managed to grow up to 20 vegetables<br />

in pots on his balcony under the glaring<br />

Mediterranean sun.<br />

“We grew what we could,” he says.<br />

“Agricultural production was severely<br />

disrupted due to ongoing war. Fishmongers<br />

were hard up selling their produce but we<br />

always managed to buy fresh grapefruit,<br />

olives, lemons, potatoes, bananas, limes,<br />

oranges and peanuts from the local<br />

market stores.<br />

“No one has fields or garden beds in the<br />

inner city but we considered ourselves pretty<br />

lucky to have a balcony garden. What we<br />

could not grow on our balcony was sourced<br />

from local farmers, but I longed one day to<br />

grow my own vegetables and live in peace.<br />

“I dreamed of owning my own land and this<br />

is why I came to Australia, for the opportunity<br />

to enjoy my own green space at last.”<br />

A change of climate<br />

When Farouk traded Beirut — known in its<br />

heyday as the Paris of the Middle East —<br />

for Melbourne, the self-styled Paris of the<br />

South, he and his Egyptian-born wife Magda<br />

eventually came to rest in the suburb of<br />

Pascoe Vale. In contrast to Lebanon’s dry, hot<br />

summers and mild winters, Melbourne gets<br />

plenty of rain in winter, while the summer<br />

heat is tempered by cool nights.<br />

Though once a vast chook farm and noted<br />

for its Cobb & Co waystation, Pascoe Vale,<br />

just 10km north of the CBD, is hardly the<br />

wide-open spaces any more. But Farouk’s<br />

experience with gardening in a confined<br />

space stood him in good stead — there’s<br />

scarcely a fruit or vegetable he doesn’t grow<br />

in his 580m 2 block.<br />

In clay beds along the garden fence<br />

filled with plenty of compost, silverbeet,<br />

beans, garlic, tomatoes, parsley and olives<br />

grow in profusion, together with oregano,<br />

plums, pears, apples, cucumber, turnips<br />

and lemons.<br />

To save space, Farouk espaliers his apple<br />

and peach trees: “They are protected against<br />

wind and kept warm up against the garden<br />

wall during cold winter months.”<br />

He has managed to make the most of his<br />

relatively small plot without cluttering it up.<br />

“The garden needs space to grow, sunlight<br />

26 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


and plenty of air. I don’t have much shadow<br />

in my garden.”<br />

Farouk uses no chemicals or pest control.<br />

“There’s nothing wrong with pests,” he says.<br />

“Keep in harmony with pests by conditioning<br />

your compost around your fruit trees and<br />

they’ll leave your fruit alone.<br />

“Use a brush or piece of cardboard to<br />

sweep aphids away from roses. I don’t believe<br />

in killing insects. They are there for a reason.”<br />

Keeping it simple<br />

Though retired now, Farouk has had a variety<br />

of jobs. He has worked as a salesman, had<br />

a job at Wittenoom asbestos mine and then<br />

followed his love of the outdoors to study<br />

horticulture at Collingwood TAFE for twoand-a-half<br />

years.<br />

After that he worked at Melbourne Zoo<br />

for five years ... “and loved it. I cleaned<br />

pathways, removed weeds, spread mulch on<br />

garden beds, dug up beds, planted hundreds<br />

of punnets of flowers and native grasses and<br />

drove a little vehicle around 350 species of<br />

plants on the 55-acre site. I’ll never forget<br />

my time there.”<br />

If working in horticulture has taught him<br />

anything it’s to keep things “simple and<br />

uncomplicated”, says Farouk. “I don’t buy any<br />

of that stuff people spend a fortune on — you<br />

know, those chemical sprays people use on<br />

plants. I say don’t kill bugs. They are friendly,<br />

they are useful, they are needed. Just keep<br />

conditioning the soil and stay away from<br />

those chemicals. They’ll end up killing<br />

you in time.<br />

“You must compost,” he adds. “It’s the only<br />

way to condition the soil and keep the right<br />

bugs in line. If you’ve got good soil you’ve<br />

got a good tree that will produce good fruit.<br />

At Melbourne Zoo I’d compost all day long<br />

to ensure that all plants were given the right<br />

start in life.”<br />

To hear Farouk tell it, gardening is as<br />

easy as it gets. “Have a plan to plant a tree?<br />

Dig a hole, put plenty of compost soup in it,<br />

water it well at the start and don’t fuss over<br />

the fruit tree. Allow it to grow freely, train it<br />

when it grows a little wild, and make sure<br />

the soil doesn’t dry out. If you fuss over a<br />

plant it will get used to it and then you’ve<br />

created a lot of hard work for yourself.<br />

Keep it simple.”<br />

Farouk doesn’t see the need for a worm<br />

farm as “there are plenty of worms in the<br />

compost soup and they love their life there”.<br />

Another way he keeps things simple is by<br />

using a manual lawn mower. “I toss some of<br />

the clippings in the compost bin and allow<br />

the rest to sit on the lawn itself to decompose<br />

without smothering the lawn. Don’t you think<br />

that’s a good idea?”<br />

Farouk & Magda Khaled | GARDENING FOLK<br />

“I don’t buy any of that stuff people spend a fortune on — you know, those<br />

chemical sprays people use on plants. I say don’t kill bugs. They<br />

are friendly, they are useful, they are needed.”<br />

Enjoying the<br />

produce<br />

Farouk believes in storing water, which he<br />

keeps in barrels in his shed. “When I need it<br />

I simply scoop water using a watering can<br />

and water difficult access points in my<br />

Mediterranean<br />

Tabouli Salad<br />

Ingredients<br />

2 bunches fresh parsley, chopped<br />

1 tomato, diced<br />

1 Lebanese cucumber, peeled, diced & seeded<br />

5 leaves fresh peppermint, chopped<br />

1 garlic clove, crushed<br />

1 onion, chopped<br />

½ cup bulgur<br />

Juice 1 lemon<br />

Dash olive oil<br />

Allspice & sea salt, to taste<br />

Method<br />

In a bowl, mix finely chopped onion with<br />

allspice and sea salt.<br />

Soak bulgur for 20 minutes in warm water.<br />

Squeeze out excess water and add to onions.<br />

Chop or dice remaining ingredients and<br />

add to the first mixing bowl. Add dash of<br />

olive oil.<br />

Serve with pita bread or lettuce leaves.


GARDENING FOLK | Farouk & Magda Khaled<br />

Farouk believes composting is everything<br />

By now this would be a pretty screen. Farouk espaliers<br />

fruit trees to save space<br />

28 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Farouk & Magda Khaled | GARDENING FOLK<br />

Farouk shares with the insects, which he doesn’t<br />

consider to be pests<br />

“The garden needs<br />

space to grow, sunlight<br />

and plenty of air. I don’t<br />

have much shadow in<br />

my garden.”<br />

on them,, such as a wrapped brick. “Then<br />

turn the olives and lay the brick on the other<br />

side. When they dry out, leave them on a flat<br />

surface and then sprinkle olive oil on them<br />

and then you can freeze them.<br />

“I also hang garlic from the roof rafters in<br />

the garage, as well as oregano. Oregano is<br />

very strong and it is also good in tabouli.”<br />

For Farouk, Magda’s tabouli salad is the<br />

perfect cure for homesickness. “It’s so easy<br />

to make and it tastes so-o-o good. Growing<br />

up in Lebanon, my parents raised me to eat<br />

healthy food from an early age. Tabouli can<br />

be eaten with most dishes and it tastes fresh<br />

and has a distinct texture and vivid colours.<br />

“Anyone can make it. I don’t usually<br />

measure the ingredients and sometimes I add<br />

a variety of different other vegetables to it.<br />

But no matter what vegetable you add, you’ll<br />

find it’s beneficial to your health.”<br />

garden bed such as my side garden,” he says.<br />

“Water is precious and without it you’re<br />

not able to keep the water levels maintained<br />

in the soil beds. Keep water levels consistent<br />

throughout the garden beds. Allowing it to<br />

fluctuate will cause stress on the plant and<br />

result in poor-quality fruit.”<br />

Like many of us, Farouk regards gardening<br />

not as work or even a pastime but as part of<br />

life. He likes spending time with family and<br />

friends “but my friends know me as someone<br />

who enjoys my garden. When I wake up in the<br />

morning you will find me in my garden plucking<br />

a few green vegies for breakfast or dinner.<br />

“I have a simple garden without fuss and<br />

I just enjoy foraging about and checking on<br />

new growth.”<br />

The Khaleds preserve their black olives<br />

by applying rock salt and placing a weight<br />

Farouk’s Top Tips<br />

• Keep your plants in harmony with<br />

good and bad bugs.<br />

• Don’t rake your lawn clippings.<br />

• Allow your plants to grow without fuss.<br />

• Espalier if necessary to conserve space,<br />

especially if you have a small garden<br />

like mine.<br />

• Don’t grow tomatoes in the same<br />

spot year after year.<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 29


GARDENING FOLK | Danny Summers<br />

Danny’s bee<br />

haven<br />

A great friend to the local bees and other<br />

insects, this inventive food gardener uses<br />

permaculture principles along with his<br />

own unique methods<br />

30 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Danny Summers | GARDENING FOLK<br />

Danny hosts seven honeybee<br />

hives for a friend<br />

Danny grows a great selection of fruit trees and shrubs, including<br />

pomegranate, passionfruit, Brazilian guavas, boysenberries, peaches,<br />

oranges, limes and lemonades, as well as native hibiscus.<br />

Words & photos Sandra Tuszynska<br />

Danny and his wife Carolyn have<br />

lived near Murgon in southeast<br />

Queensland for the past 15<br />

years. Both have a passion for<br />

art; while Carolyn loves to draw and paint,<br />

Danny creates installations for the garden<br />

using recycled materials. He especially loves<br />

to collect old electricity post insulators and<br />

install them as garden décor.<br />

Danny feels sentimental about burning<br />

the 100-year old timber. “It’s too sad to<br />

burn history,” he says. He’s fascinated by<br />

the antique ceramic insulators and says the<br />

workmanship in them is incredible: “They look<br />

as good as new.” He jokes, “I wish I looked as<br />

good at 60 years old.”<br />

For the love of bees<br />

Danny hesitates to admit that bees<br />

are his passion, but he’s a dedicated<br />

member of Valley Bees, a very active and<br />

knowledgeable bee group based in Gympie.<br />

He hosts seven honeybee hives for a friend<br />

and rescues native bee hives. Danny finds<br />

out about selective clearing events and<br />

goes there beforehand to inspect the site<br />

for native bee activity. He then removes any<br />

logs inhabited by the tiny creatures and<br />

takes them home.<br />

Danny doesn’t collect their honey; he<br />

just loves them and likes to use their log<br />

homes as installations for his garden. He<br />

estimates that around 10 resued colonies<br />

now have their homes on his property.<br />

“You need to know when to rescue them,”<br />

he explains. “They increase their activity<br />

when it’s hot. Water is essential for bees and<br />

they’re sensitive to disturbance. Also, if<br />

you leave space for them in the log, the<br />

hive will grow.”<br />

We have about 10 species of native<br />

social bees in the genera Tetragonula<br />

and Austroplebeia.<br />

Danny has also created several bee<br />

blocks for solitary native bees on old<br />

electricity poles with insulators. Plus, he<br />

The filled holes indicate occupation<br />

by native bees<br />

has built a bee wall near his gardens to<br />

provide a nesting habitat for the myriad<br />

solitary bees that live in the area.<br />

He explains, “Different hole sizes are<br />

used by different bee species, which use<br />

different materials for their nests and to<br />

block off their nests, so you can tell which<br />

species of bees are using the sites.”<br />

Many of the holes in the wooden blocks<br />

are filled, a good indication that bees or<br />

other creatures are making use of the<br />

nesting sites. The bee haven Danny has<br />

created seems to be appreciated by the<br />

various pollinators that inhabit his garden.<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 31


GARDENING FOLK | Danny Summers<br />

Native bee<br />

Bee home<br />

Danny’s<br />

gardening tips<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Don’t do more than you can handle.<br />

2. Keep away from high-growth<br />

fertilisers with lots of nitrogen unless<br />

you can supply enough water to trees<br />

for growth and nutrient uptake.<br />

3. Create bird and insect habitats, for<br />

bees especially, to pollinate your garden<br />

and reduce pests and diseases.<br />

4. Use lots of worm juice on your trees<br />

and garden and compost what you can.<br />

5. Seaweed tea is a valuable mineral<br />

resource that does wonders for<br />

growing plants.<br />

6. <strong>Good</strong>-quality mulch is essential.<br />

Micro-bat box<br />

Permaculture<br />

principles in action<br />

Danny experiments with permaculture<br />

principles. He has a row of olive trees given to<br />

him by an Italian friend that he planted eight<br />

years ago. They serve as a windbreak against<br />

westerlies and create a microclimate. Danny<br />

is quite observant when it comes to how<br />

nature works in the habitats he provides.<br />

For instance, double-barred finches like<br />

to build their nests close to wasp nests for<br />

safety against attack from bigger birds.<br />

Danny appreciates the pest control the<br />

finches provide. His 26 ducks eat fallen fruit,<br />

preventing fruit flies breeding, while the<br />

duck eggs are a significant food source for<br />

the dog. Bella skilfully punctures the shells<br />

and laps up the contents.<br />

The native bees and wasps pollinate<br />

the figs and olives. Danny has installed a<br />

microbat box with some shadecloth for<br />

them to climb into the box. He explains,<br />

“Microbats can eat two-thirds of their own<br />

weight in mosquitoes!”.<br />

The garden<br />

& fruit trees<br />

Most of Danny’s beds are bordered by old<br />

railway sleepers and he tops up the soil with<br />

horse manure from Carolyn’s horses. He also<br />

feeds worms with horse manure through a<br />

downpipe inserted into the beds.<br />

He likes to grow different garlic and leek<br />

varieties, including elephant garlic and the really<br />

hot varieties such as ‘Early White’, ‘Early Purple’<br />

and ‘Italian Red’.<br />

Danny adds crushed basalt or granite<br />

to remineralise the soil and creates his own<br />

biodynamic lifter from rice husks: “Rice husk<br />

contains silicon and potash. You can burn it and<br />

mix the ash with water to produce biodynamic<br />

lifter. It also makes fantastic bedding for chooks,<br />

good garden mulch and it aerates the soil.” He<br />

adds. “Peanut hay is a great nitrogen source —<br />

and there’s plenty of it here in peanut country.”<br />

Danny grows a great selection of fruit trees<br />

Danny finds out about<br />

selective clearing events<br />

and goes there beforehand<br />

to inspect the site for<br />

native bee activity. He then<br />

removes any logs inhabited<br />

by the tiny creatures and<br />

takes them home.<br />

Fruit-fly traps are recycled milk bottles<br />

painted orange and filled with boiled<br />

apple cider vinegar to attract the flies<br />

32 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Danny Summers | GARDENING FOLK<br />

and shrubs, including pomegranate, passionfruit,<br />

Brazilian guavas, boysenberries, peaches,<br />

oranges, limes and lemonades, as well as<br />

native hibiscus.<br />

“Pigeon pea creates a great microclimate<br />

and can be eaten as dhal,” he says. He likes<br />

to propagate bromeliads, too. There are some<br />

Himalayan ash trees, which are not native but the<br />

king parrots love their seeds.<br />

Water is often scarce in Murgon and the dam<br />

was dry at the time of our visit. In dry periods,<br />

advises Danny, “Don’t use too much nitrogen,<br />

because without sufficient water supply to<br />

help the plants grow, the nitrogen is wasted<br />

and can burn plants.”<br />

He’s set up a grey water system but is mindful<br />

of changing the supply to different trees. “Don’t<br />

build up too much soapsuds as they contain<br />

sulphates and can make the soil waterrepellent,”<br />

he warns.<br />

Danny also uses mulch to strain the heavier<br />

constituents of the grey water to protect the<br />

soil. He likes to use sugarcane mulch, preferring<br />

to pay more for good-quality mulch that has<br />

no weeds rather than spend time and effort<br />

removing weeds introduced by cheap mulch.<br />

Worm juice<br />

and seaweed tea<br />

Danny enjoys creating worm juice in large<br />

quantities. He has constructed a worm farm<br />

designed to leach worm juice. The worms are<br />

farmed in a shed, on sloped tables lined with<br />

black plastic. At the taller end, the worms are fed<br />

horse manure. Danny adds lime to reduce acidity<br />

and mixes it all up regularly to provide aeration,<br />

as the mix is watered to produce runoff.<br />

The runoff flows down the slope and is<br />

collected in buckets and aerated with a small<br />

fishtank pump. This ensures growth of the<br />

beneficial micro-organisms that give worm juice<br />

its excellent fertilising properties.<br />

Danny also feeds molasses to the microbes<br />

in the juice. He then strains the runoff through<br />

stockings and collects the worm juice in recycled<br />

Danny creates his own biodynamic lifter<br />

from rice husks<br />

milk bottles. He dilutes it before using it on the<br />

garden and gives some away.<br />

Danny’s other favourite fertiliser is seaweed<br />

tea. He buys Tasmanian seaweed, as it’s low in<br />

arsenic and other toxins, unlike seaweed from<br />

other countries. He puts 1kg of seaweed into<br />

20L of water, mixing it regularly, as it sticks to<br />

the bottom of the bucket. It takes six weeks<br />

for the nutrients to enter the water. He then<br />

strains it off through a paint strainer. He says<br />

the worms also love the seaweed tea.<br />

Danny definitely likes to work with nature in<br />

an inventive way. He has an eye for the different<br />

functions that each creature and plant<br />

contributes to create a sustainable garden<br />

ecosystem.<br />

Danny’s other favourite<br />

fertiliser is seaweed tea. He<br />

buys Tasmanian seaweed,<br />

as it’s low in arsenic and<br />

other toxins, unlike seaweed<br />

from other countries.<br />

Water is essential for bees<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 33


GARDENING FOLK | Sandra & Mick Nanka<br />

Herbal<br />

happiness<br />

Sandra and Mick Nanka of Mudbrick Cottage Herb Farm<br />

A passion for herb growing and a desire for self-sufficiency are the driving<br />

forces behind this productive garden and business<br />

Words & photos Claire Bickle<br />

FThere are people who like herbs<br />

and then there are people who<br />

are passionate about herbs — who<br />

live herbs. Sandra and Mick Nanka<br />

are such people. They grow one of the<br />

largest ranges of herbs in Queensland,<br />

if not Australia.<br />

Self-sufficiency is the backbone of<br />

their lives, home and business and what<br />

better location for it all than the Gold<br />

Coast hinterland in a delightful spot<br />

called Mudgeeraba?<br />

Sandra and Mick have lived there since<br />

1982; they’ve raised their four sons there.<br />

Their home is their haven, filled with love,<br />

memories and a garden to soothe the soul<br />

and bring joy to their lives every day.<br />

The Nankas have created a garden<br />

paradise on their half-hectare block and, with<br />

a subtropical climate on their side, there’s<br />

gardening going on all year round.<br />

They run a small business there as<br />

well, called Mudbrick Cottage, open to the<br />

public Monday and Tuesday each week<br />

and the third weekend of every month.<br />

They also sell online herb plants, dried<br />

herbs and related products.<br />

When asked what else they enjoy<br />

doing, Sandra and Mick agree that fishing<br />

and travelling are next on their list of<br />

preferred pastimes.<br />

Sandra also loves running wonderful<br />

workshops on all things herbal to share<br />

her immense knowledge and passion, and<br />

also to give people the confidence to have<br />

a go themselves.<br />

Asked where their passion for gardening<br />

came from, Mick offers, “My dad always had<br />

a vegetable garden, with chickens as part<br />

A handcrafted birdbath serves as both<br />

a water source for birds and an artwork<br />

34 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Sandra & Mick Nanka | GARDENING FOLK<br />

of the mix.” He says his father was in turn<br />

influenced by his family in Croatia, who were<br />

also self-sufficient. They grew much of their<br />

fruit and veg and raised livestock for meat<br />

and eggs.<br />

As for Sandra, “It was my great-uncle Ossie<br />

and great-aunt Maud, who lived in Chinchilla<br />

not far from my grandmother’s place.” She<br />

says they had everything growing you could<br />

possibly imagine and in such a challenging<br />

climate that was no mean feat.<br />

There were mulberries, grapes,<br />

passionfruit, chokos and trellises of sweet<br />

peas, figs and flowers everywhere. Days<br />

would be spent playing hide and seek in this<br />

magical garden, always followed by Auntie<br />

Maud’s tea, cakes, biscuits, scones and<br />

homemade grape and fig jam.<br />

Sandra says she always loved the thought<br />

of turning produce from the garden into<br />

something that would taste wonderful and<br />

keep the memory alive when the fresh fruit<br />

was long gone.<br />

The patch<br />

The first thing Sandra and Mick did when<br />

they moved in together was create a<br />

vegetable and herb garden. These days, there<br />

are still vegetables and herbs but also fruiting<br />

trees, though the most abundant harvests<br />

are from the never-ending supply of herbs.<br />

Sandra says their jaboticaba (also called<br />

Brazilian grape tree) is very productive, too —<br />

so much so that they often have to freeze a<br />

lot of the fruit.<br />

The garden beds are all slightly raised<br />

because of the shale and clay-based soil<br />

and to improve drainage, which have been<br />

the greatest challenges. They’ve continually<br />

added compost to improve soil structure.<br />

Medicinal, culinary, aromatic, pest-repellent ... they’ve got it all<br />

“Sandra always loved the thought of turning<br />

produce from the garden into something that<br />

would taste wonderful and keep the memory alive<br />

when the fresh fruit was long gone.”<br />

Large gum trees also make things difficult,<br />

throwing shade over the garden during<br />

winter, not to mention the water and<br />

nutrients they draw from the soil.<br />

The feature vegetable garden is in the<br />

mandala style with bamboo used for edging.<br />

There are also tank beds and an area that’s<br />

a mix of vegies grown in rows with fruit trees<br />

dotted in between. This particular section is<br />

watered by the run-off from the nursery.<br />

The Nankas harvest their own water via<br />

their large dam and 7500-gallon tank. Other<br />

measures they have in place to save and<br />

recycle water are the nursery’s water-saving<br />

sprinklers and the use of grey water to<br />

irrigate the fruit trees.<br />

Keeping it organic<br />

Asked why they think growing organically<br />

is important, they state the obvious: it’s<br />

the right thing to do. “If you’re going to eat<br />

the plants you’re growing, you don’t want<br />

The Nankas’ herb nursery is vast<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 35


GARDENING FOLK | Sandra & Mick Nanka<br />

There are many beautiful<br />

nooks and crannies<br />

Cuppa, anyone?<br />

The chickens of Mudbrick Cottage are happy with their daily<br />

dose of herbs mixed into their diet<br />

36 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Sandra & Mick Nanka | GARDENING FOLK<br />

Prevention is better than cure is<br />

their philosophy, so they find growing a<br />

multitude of herbs around the vegetables<br />

and not planting them in blocks works<br />

really well to cause confusion for the<br />

would-be attackers.<br />

Calendulas galore: a plant with so many uses<br />

potentially harmful chemicals in them,<br />

says Sandra.<br />

“Nature finds a balance, and a few<br />

holes here and there in the leaves don’t<br />

really matter. That’s why we even limit<br />

our organic pest control methods —<br />

because we don’t want to harm any of the<br />

beneficial insects. It’s important to nourish<br />

the soil, and using organic methods will<br />

equate to healthy soil, leading to healthy<br />

plants, healthy humans and a healthy<br />

planet. Simple!”<br />

The fertilisers used include manure from<br />

their chooks, worm castings from their<br />

The Nankas’ top<br />

gardening tips<br />

Grow your own herbs and produce in<br />

mixed profusion to confuse insects.<br />

Plant crops in the right season.<br />

Use herbs in the compost heap to add<br />

minerals and help with breakdown.<br />

When planting new plants:<br />

– Soak seedlings in a seaweed solution<br />

before planting.<br />

– Add compost at the time of planting.<br />

– Always fill the planting holes with<br />

water first to ensure the soil is moist.<br />

Let the annual herbs go to seed to<br />

attract beneficial insects.<br />

“The feature vegetable<br />

garden is in the<br />

mandala style with<br />

bamboo used for edging.<br />

There are also tank beds<br />

and an area that’s a mix<br />

of vegies grown in rows<br />

with fruit trees dotted<br />

in between.<br />

two bathtub worm farms and compost and<br />

pelletised manure during the growing season.<br />

Compost production at Mudbrick<br />

Cottage comprises five heaps <strong>1.</strong>5m by <strong>1.</strong>5m<br />

each. In the main garden there’s a large<br />

black compost bin and, in the nursery,<br />

two further large heaps for all the plants<br />

classed as throw-outs.<br />

When it comes to bugs, organic controls<br />

are the only methods Sandra and Mick use:<br />

homemade white oil and Eco-oil on the fruit<br />

trees and certified organic pyrethrum on<br />

the odd occasion. If there are any red spider<br />

mite outbreaks they order in some predatory<br />

mites to control them.<br />

The abundance of<br />

the Nankas’ garden<br />

“I love that we can look out across our garden<br />

and think how wonderful that something so<br />

beautiful (well, I think it’s beautiful) can also<br />

be so useful,” says Sandra.<br />

She and Mick think the most unique<br />

feature of their garden is the vast number of<br />

herb species they have growing and I’d have<br />

to agree.<br />

When asked what they like to do with their<br />

harvests, both agree they love cooking and<br />

herbs are an integral part of every meal. Even<br />

the Mudbrick Cottage chickens have herbs<br />

mixed into their daily diet.<br />

Salads are at the top of the list in the<br />

meals department — Sandra says they<br />

often have up to 40 different plants in each<br />

salad. Then there are herbal teas, infused<br />

oils, ointments, tinctures, syrups and<br />

poultices made lovingly on a regular basis<br />

in the Nankas’ home.<br />

The dehydrator also gets a workout<br />

drying excess herbs and vegetables<br />

while pestos, herb butters, chutneys and<br />

jams are other ways they prolong their<br />

enjoyment of their harvest.<br />

You can find the Nankas’ online herb<br />

business at herbcottage.com.au<br />

Facebook: Mudbrick Cottage Herb Farm<br />

Salvia officinalis: both leaves and flowers are edible<br />

on the sage plant<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 37


TIME TO PLANT | Lettuce<br />

Lettuce<br />

Lactuca sativa<br />

The year-round essential that’s always infinitely better<br />

straight from the backyard<br />

Words Melissa King<br />

Plant a crop of lettuce every few<br />

weeks and you’ll always have fresh<br />

leafy greens at your fingertips.<br />

Lettuces are quick and easy to grow<br />

and can be planted and picked year round in<br />

many areas. So why not fill decorative pots or<br />

garden beds with lettuces in every leaf colour<br />

and texture?<br />

Choose from loose-leaf lettuces that can<br />

be picked leaf by leaf as you need them or<br />

hearting varieties that form dense heads<br />

of leaves and are harvested in one chop.<br />

The best-known hearting lettuce has to be<br />

‘Iceberg’, which has crisp, succulent green<br />

leaves with a mild flavour that complements<br />

everything from sung choi bao to the good<br />

old Aussie prawn cocktail.<br />

I like to grow the loose-leaf lettuce types,<br />

which can be picked on demand, like the<br />

incredibly beautiful ‘Red Velvet’, with rich,<br />

deep-maroon-coloured leaves that are as<br />

attractive as any flower. Plant it en masse for<br />

real impact or grow it alongside lime-green<br />

Most lettuce varieties<br />

are ready to harvest in<br />

as little as 5–6 weeks if<br />

you are planting them<br />

as seedlings. Hearting<br />

types take a bit longer.<br />

varieties like ‘Royal Oakleaf’ for contrast.<br />

‘Royal Oakleaf’ has a long history, dating back<br />

to 1771 and stands up well to the heat, so it’s<br />

a good choice for growing at this time of year.<br />

‘Gold Rush’ is another lime-green stunner<br />

that’s slow to bolt, so you can pick it for<br />

longer. It has crinkled, almost gold foliage that<br />

lights up the garden and the kitchen. ‘Rouge<br />

d’Hiver’ is another attractive loose-leaf type<br />

with chocolate-red foliage tinged with green<br />

at the base that adds colour and variety to<br />

the salad bowl.<br />

I also enjoy the delicate, light texture of<br />

butter lettuces, like ‘Freckles Bunte’ with<br />

crinkled green foliage that is speckled with<br />

red patches. If you like a bit of frill, try growing<br />

Italian Lollo varieties with ruffled leaves in<br />

shades of green, pink and red.<br />

Growing conditions: Lettuce can be<br />

grown from seed or planted as seedlings.<br />

Plant in a sunny spot with rich, welldrained<br />

soil. If you live in a hot area, give<br />

plants some shade from around lunchtime<br />

onwards, particularly through the warmer<br />

months, and choose heat-tolerant varieties<br />

that are less likely to bolt to seed. Lettuces<br />

are shallow-rooted plants, so keep the<br />

water up and liquid-feed every two weeks<br />

for lots of leafy greens.<br />

Spacing: Sow seed in rows about 30cm apart<br />

and cover with a thin layer of soil, or plant<br />

seedlings 20–35cm apart in rows 30cm apart.<br />

Harvest: Most lettuce varieties are ready to<br />

harvest in as little as 5–6 weeks if you are<br />

planting them as seedlings. Hearting types<br />

take a bit longer. If you are growing loose-leaf<br />

lettuces, simply harvest the outside leaves<br />

as you need them or pick the mature head in<br />

one go. Harvest hearting lettuces all at once<br />

when the head is full and ripe.<br />

Growing tip: If you’re tight on space, try<br />

growing lettuces in sunny pots or look out for<br />

miniature varieties like Baby or Mini Cos, with<br />

a compact habit and sweet, crisp leaves.<br />

‘Iceberg’<br />

Lettuce label<br />

Common name: Lettuce<br />

Botanical name: Lactuca sativa<br />

Family: Asteraceae<br />

Aspect & soil: Sunny position;<br />

rich, well-drained soil<br />

Best climate: All<br />

Habit: Annual<br />

Propagation: Seed, seedling<br />

Difficulty: Easy<br />

Kerry Boyne<br />

38 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


RADISH | TIME TO PLANT<br />

Radish<br />

Raphanus sativus<br />

Another salad star that adds peppery flavour<br />

and crunch to your meals<br />

Shutterstock<br />

Words Melissa King<br />

Radishes are fast and easy to grow<br />

with colourful roots and a crisp, firm<br />

texture that brings crunch and a<br />

peppery zing to fresh salads and<br />

side dishes.<br />

Research different radish varieties and<br />

you’ll be surprised by the sheer range you<br />

can grow. If you’re after a standard, round,<br />

red radish with crisp, white flesh, ‘Early<br />

Scarlet Globe’ is a pretty, fast-growing<br />

choice. Or for something extra bright in<br />

the salad bowl, try ‘Champion’, with cherrycoloured<br />

skin and a mild flavour. For an<br />

extra big crop of radishes, try ‘Giant of Sicily’<br />

with large red globes that can be harvested<br />

45–55 days after sowing.<br />

Then there are decorative varieties like<br />

‘French Breakfast’, which dates back to<br />

the 1890s and produces pretty oblong,<br />

rose-coloured radishes with white tips,<br />

which make an attractive side dish. Radish<br />

‘Watermelon’ is another appealing variety,<br />

aptly named for its white skin and brightpink<br />

flesh, or you might like to try ‘Hailstone’<br />

with crisp snow-white globes.<br />

Radish ‘Black Spanish Long’ is said to<br />

have come to Australia with the First Fleet.<br />

The long cylindrical root has beautiful dark<br />

skin, contrasting white flesh and a pungent<br />

flavour. There’s also a round variety, not<br />

surprisingly called ‘Black Spanish Round’,<br />

with a spicy, almost nutty flavour. The flesh<br />

is lovely sliced fresh, grated in salads or<br />

pickled. If you’re not sure which one to grow,<br />

get your hands on an heirloom mix of seeds<br />

with radishes in a rainbow of colours.<br />

Growing conditions: Radishes are hardy<br />

annuals that enjoy full sun and rich, welldrained<br />

soil. Seeds can be direct-sown<br />

every season into soil that has been<br />

enriched with compost and organic matter.<br />

Thin the young seedlings to 2.5–5cm apart<br />

and keep well watered.<br />

Growing tip: Sow a small crop every two<br />

to three weeks for a succession of fresh,<br />

crisp radishes.<br />

Harvest: Radishes are quick to harvest, with<br />

some varieties ready to pull just 25 days<br />

from sowing. They are generally eaten raw<br />

in salads, so harvest the roots when they are<br />

young and tender.<br />

Radishes are quick<br />

to harvest, with some<br />

varieties ready to pull<br />

just 25 days from sowing.<br />

They are generally eaten<br />

raw in salads.<br />

‘French Breakfast’<br />

Radish label<br />

Common name: Radish<br />

Botanical name: Raphanus sativus<br />

Family: Brassicaceae<br />

Aspect & soil: Full sun;<br />

rich, well-drained soil<br />

Best climate: All<br />

Habit: Annual<br />

Propagation: Seed, seedling<br />

Difficulty: Easy<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 39


GARDEN DIARY | Mid-summer<br />

Things to do in<br />

<strong>January</strong><br />

Summer in Australia is a season of extremes. Prepare for it to be very hot,<br />

wet, dry or windy, depending on climatic conditions. This is the season of<br />

floods, fires and cyclones, all of which take their toll on gardens<br />

By Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

Vegetables<br />

COOL & TEMPERATE<br />

Avoid the worst of the day’s heat by gardening<br />

in the cool of the early morning. Use this time<br />

to water and tend crops, check for pests,<br />

remove weeds and spot vegetables that are<br />

ready to harvest. On very hot days, shade<br />

crops to prevent sun damage. Repeat this<br />

inspection in the evening, paying particular<br />

attention to plants that need extra water.<br />

Make sure tomatoes are well watered to avoid<br />

blossom-end rot in fruit. If some crops are<br />

failing to form fruit — particularly cucurbits,<br />

including pumpkins, squash and zucchini — try<br />

hand pollination (transferring pollen from male<br />

flowers to receptive female flowers). In fruit fly<br />

zones, protect all soft vegies (such as tomatoes<br />

and capsicum) from fruit fly attack. These pests<br />

become more active as summer progresses.<br />

Use fruit fly baits or traps and, where possible,<br />

cover individual fruit with exclusion bags or<br />

nets. Regularly liquid-feed all edibles, especially<br />

leafy greens, and make new plantings of<br />

successful crops to keep the harvest coming.<br />

Keep weeds under control by hoeing between<br />

rows. Cover any bare soil with a thin layer of<br />

organic mulch to help deter weed growth.<br />

TROPICAL<br />

Harvest vegies while they are small and tender.<br />

In the heat and humidity of the wet season,<br />

crops such as zucchini and cucumber quickly<br />

over-mature. They become large, seedy and<br />

watery and are best fed to the chooks. Leafy<br />

crops, too, can become tough and bitter as<br />

they age, so always harvest them regularly.<br />

Replace mature crops with fresh sowings.<br />

Shade new plantings to protect them from both<br />

heat and heavy rains. Sweet corn, sunflowers<br />

and climbing crops on a trellis, such as Ceylon<br />

spinach, provide a natural source of shade for<br />

the vegie garden. Combat powdery mildew with<br />

regular applications of milk spray (one part<br />

whole milk to 10 parts water) or just pull out<br />

badly affected plants.<br />

Fruit<br />

COOL & TEMPERATE<br />

Mow or weed around fruit trees and deeply<br />

water trees, shrubs and vines at least once a<br />

week if rain is scarce, but reduce watering of<br />

fig trees. Feed most fruiting trees and shrubs,<br />

including apples, apricots and blueberries.<br />

Keep up fruit fly protection for still-ripening soft<br />

fruits, including raspberries. Use baits, traps and<br />

exclusion bags. Protect ripening fruit from birds.<br />

Use nets or reusable fruit baskets that snap<br />

over fruit clusters to protect crops against birds<br />

and bats. If using nets, use only white knitted<br />

nets that are less likely to snare birds, bats<br />

and reptiles. Stretch nets so they’re taut, avoid<br />

overly large nets that pool on the ground where<br />

they may trap small reptiles and regularly<br />

inspect nets to free any trapped animals.<br />

TROPICAL<br />

Keep harvesting summer fruit, including<br />

avocados, custard apples, mangoes, pawpaw<br />

and passionfruit. Hand-pollinate passionfruit<br />

flowers if fruit is slow to form. Check flowers<br />

regularly for ripe pollen to transfer to the<br />

sticky female part of the flower. Use a dry<br />

brush or cotton bud to transfer pollen. Bottle,<br />

freeze or dry excess crops. If fungal diseases<br />

are evident on fruit or foliage, apply a copperbased<br />

fungicide approved for organic gardens.<br />

Also, keep organic fruit fly baits fresh by<br />

regularly reapplying and protecting them<br />

from rain. Apply fertiliser to avocado, banana,<br />

If cucurbits are failing to<br />

fruit, try hand pollination<br />

custard apple, jackfruit, loquat, passionfruit<br />

and pawpaw, especially after periods of heavy<br />

rain, which leaches nutrients from the soil.<br />

Compost & soil<br />

COOL & TEMPERATE<br />

Chop up green prunings and seed-free<br />

weeds to add to compost heaps, layered with<br />

dry leaves. Compost is developing rapidly,<br />

so regularly use compost from the heap,<br />

spreading it over soil as natural mulch. This<br />

protects soils, keeps them cool and deters<br />

weed growth. Heaps should be moist but not<br />

too wet. If there are extended periods of heavy<br />

rain, cover heaps that are too wet. Conversely,<br />

if the weather is hot and dry, compost heaps<br />

can dry out and may need to be watered and<br />

turned. Keep worm farms in a cool location as<br />

hot spells can kill worms.<br />

TROPICAL<br />

Summer storms continue to leach nutrients<br />

from soils, so renew mulches or simply<br />

lay down chopped-up prunings, including<br />

chopped palm and fern fronds, to protect the<br />

soil. Apply fertilisers including potash to rapidly<br />

growing vegetables and fruiting crops. In<br />

fallow vegie beds, plant a green manure crop<br />

to add fertility to the soil in time for dry season<br />

planting, or cover soil with a layer of mulch.<br />

Use the cooler evenings to do vigorous<br />

work such as digging, spreading mulches or<br />

turning the compost heap.<br />

Shutterstock, Jana Holmer<br />

40 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Mid-summer | GARDEN DIARY<br />

1<br />

2<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Hoe between the rows to control weeds<br />

2. Dry excess mangoes to enjoy fruit year round<br />

3. Bird-safe white netting over fruit trees<br />

3<br />

(Leppington) Pty Ltd<br />

ABN 36 001 123 726<br />

1675 The Northern Road Bringelly NSW 2556<br />

Phone: (02) 4773 4291 Fax: (02) 4773 4104 Email: sales@lpcmilk.com<br />

Suppliers of certified poultry and cow manures.<br />

Fresh or composted delivered in bulk.<br />

Great for all types of agriculture industries.<br />

Poultry manure which can be spread in residential<br />

areas, golf courses, sporting ovals and parks.<br />

Also ask us about our reduced low odour.<br />

Member of Australian <strong>Organic</strong> Association<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 41


GARDEN DIARY | Late summer<br />

Things to do in<br />

<strong>February</strong><br />

Enjoy the bounty of late summer by eating what you can while it’s<br />

fresh and preserving the rest for the cooler months ahead<br />

By Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

Vegetables<br />

COOL & TEMPERATE<br />

In addition to daily watering, liquid-feed<br />

leafy vegies each week with organic plant<br />

food to keep plants actively growing. Leafy<br />

crops such as lettuce and parsley may bolt<br />

(that is, begin to flower and seed) if allowed<br />

to dry out or become stressed. As hot<br />

days continue, shade crops to prevent sun<br />

damage and allow new plantings to establish.<br />

Seedlings are particularly vulnerable to<br />

sudden hot temperatures or drying winds.<br />

Continue to make the most of the cool of<br />

the morning and evening to tend crops.<br />

Stay on top of pests, diseases and weeds by<br />

inspecting plants daily and taking fast action<br />

when anything damaging is seen. Search for<br />

28-spotted ladybirds and pumpkin beetles<br />

that skeletonise leaves on pumpkins,<br />

zucchini and eggplants — squash adults,<br />

larvae and eggs.<br />

TROPICAL<br />

Regularly remove spent crops or those<br />

badly affected by diseases such as powdery<br />

mildew. Bury diseased and pest-infested<br />

material — don’t put it into compost heaps.<br />

Keep a supply of leafy greens for salads and<br />

stirfries by planting Asian greens, kang kong,<br />

1<br />

silverbeet and amaranth, which thrive in the<br />

heat and humidity of summer. Pick small,<br />

tender leaves and edible shoots. Visit a local<br />

farmers’ market to look for new and unusual<br />

crops that grow well at this time of the<br />

year. Also plant cherry tomatoes for an<br />

autumn harvest.<br />

Fruit<br />

COOL & TEMPERATE<br />

In cool areas, watch for a recurrence of pear<br />

and cherry slug, which skeletonises foliage on<br />

pear, cherry and peach trees. Dust with lime,<br />

ash or a certified organic product. In fruit<br />

fly zones, continue to maintain protection<br />

by renewing fly baits and removing infested<br />

fruits (see box). After harvesting summer<br />

crops, remove and store bird exclusion nets<br />

and lightly prune trees. Feed citrus trees<br />

now using a citrus food or organic fertiliser.<br />

Water trees well after applying fertiliser. In dry<br />

areas where water is limited, grey water can<br />

be used to water fruit trees, but don’t store<br />

untreated grey water for longer than 24 hours<br />

and don’t use on leafy vegetable crops.<br />

TROPICAL<br />

Fertilise all citrus trees using an organic<br />

plant food formulated for citrus. Also feed<br />

other productive plants not already fed this<br />

summer, including passionfruit and pawpaw.<br />

Continue to bottle, freeze or dry excess crops<br />

and collect and dispose of spoiled fruits.<br />

Poultry can help clean up fallen fruits and<br />

reduce pest problems, so allow them to free<br />

range around established fruiting plants but<br />

keep them out of the vegie garden unless<br />

you want the entire area cleared.<br />

Compost & soil<br />

COOL & TEMPERATE<br />

If soils have become hard to wet, apply a soilwetting<br />

agent. Once soil is moistened, cover<br />

lightly with a fine layer of compost topped<br />

with a layer of coarse organic mulch. Don’t<br />

mulch too heavily as this can stop moisture<br />

from reaching the soil — a 5cm layer is<br />

sufficient. Use a spade to turn compost<br />

heaps to keep them working efficiently.<br />

TROPICAL<br />

This is the time to improve the moistureholding<br />

ability of your soil by adding<br />

organic mulch such as compost. Dig it<br />

into new areas to prepare for planting<br />

and also add it as surface mulch. Let the<br />

earthworms do the work of turning it into<br />

the soil. Chop up green and woody material<br />

before adding it to the compost to help it<br />

break down faster.<br />

2<br />

Kerry Boyne, Shutterstock<br />

42 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Late summer | GARDEN DIARY<br />

Fruit fly in fruit<br />

Reduce fruit fly by rigorously finding and<br />

removing fruit fly-affected fruit. Left on the<br />

plant or lying on the ground, larvae can<br />

pupate in the soil, mature and start another<br />

generation. Look for fruit that shows signs of<br />

stings (small punctures) on the skin or fruit<br />

that’s rotting due to larvae inside. Pick up all<br />

fallen fruit. Destroy the larvae in the fruit by<br />

placing the damaged fruit in a clear plastic<br />

bag and leaving it to stew for a few days in the<br />

sun. It can then be buried (don’t put it in the<br />

compost). Allowing poultry to feed in orchards<br />

can help reduce fruit fly numbers.<br />

3<br />

4<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Beware the 28 spotted ladybird (Epilachna<br />

vigintioctopunctata) — she is not your friend<br />

2. Fertilise all citrus with an organic citrus food<br />

3. Pick up fallen fruit to help control fruit fly<br />

4. Kang kong — a good one to plant now for<br />

a supply of leafy greens<br />

5. Change birdbath water regularly so<br />

mosquitoes can’t breed in it<br />

5<br />

Buzz off!<br />

Bloodsucking mosquitoes can<br />

spoil time in the garden. In addition<br />

to protecting yourself from bites,<br />

regularly empty water collected in<br />

containers. This removes mozzie<br />

breeding grounds and reduces<br />

their numbers. Even water put out<br />

for pets, poultry, native birds and<br />

bees should be replenished daily to<br />

prevent mosquitoes breeding in it.<br />

Around 60% of our rubbish in landfills can be composted<br />

CompostingHome.com.au<br />

for all you need to know and products that will help you produce compost.<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 43


Earthy Tips | SHORT SHOOTS<br />

10<br />

Top Tips<br />

Clever ideas for your garden<br />

Words Erina Starkey<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

1<br />

Seasoning<br />

for all seasons<br />

Got a profusion of culinary herbs<br />

in the garden — way more than you can<br />

use right now? Dry some and make up an<br />

Italian herb mix you can use all year round.<br />

Here’s a simple formula: equal parts basil,<br />

marjoram and oregano to half parts of<br />

rosemary and thyme. Shake well together,<br />

store in a jar and use in pasta sauces,<br />

soups and casseroles all year round.<br />

Circular logic<br />

When planting a tree, dig a<br />

square hole at least twice the<br />

width of the plant’s rootball. A round<br />

hole will encourage roots to grow in<br />

a restricting circular motion, whereas<br />

a square hole will encourage the roots<br />

to grow outwards, allowing the plant to<br />

tap into nutrients from the surrounding<br />

ground. To give the plant a helping hand,<br />

tease out the roots on all sides before you<br />

pop it in the soil.<br />

Scrunchies save<br />

wildlife<br />

A recent study has found that<br />

putting a colourful hair scrunchie as a<br />

collar on cats will reduce the number of<br />

wildlife they kill by more than half. Most<br />

owners place bells on their cats, but this<br />

isn’t always effective as cats can learn to<br />

move in a way that doesn’t disturb the bell.<br />

Bright colours are very noticeable to birds<br />

and the colourful scrunchie allows cats to<br />

be spotted further away, giving birds more<br />

time to escape.<br />

4<br />

5<br />

Home healing<br />

It’s always handy to have a pot<br />

of aloe vera growing in the<br />

garden to serve as a healing and soothing<br />

balm for sunburn, insect bites, stings<br />

and skin irritations. To apply, simply slice<br />

open a lower leaf, squeeze out the gel<br />

and rub onto the affected area. The<br />

slightly curved leaves at the base of the<br />

plant are the most mature and potent,<br />

which means they have the highest<br />

nutritional content and therapeutic value.<br />

Partially used leaves can be wrapped<br />

tightly in plastic wrap or foil and stored<br />

in the fridge for three to four days, or in the<br />

freezer indefinitely.<br />

A cool idea<br />

Ice cubes can make a fantastic<br />

slow-release watering system<br />

to help minimise run-off. Pop a few ice<br />

cubes in your outdoor hanging plants and<br />

the slowly melting ice will give the plant<br />

plenty of time to absorb the water it needs<br />

without it draining out the bottom of the<br />

pot and out of the drainage holes. The<br />

melting ice will warm to room temperature<br />

by the time it reaches the roots, so it won’t<br />

shock the plant.<br />

3<br />

6<br />

7<br />

Keep it coming<br />

By sowing a new row of seeds every<br />

two to three weeks you can stagger<br />

your crops and create a more manageable<br />

flow of produce. This ensures you have a<br />

continuous supply of food without gluts.<br />

Successional sowing works particularly well<br />

for fast-growing fruit and vegetables — in<br />

particular, those that can’t be stored longterm<br />

like lettuce, radish, spinach and broccoli.<br />

Win the war<br />

on weeds<br />

Tackle weeds as they crop up<br />

rather than put it off. The longer you wait<br />

the more opportunity they have to seed<br />

and multiply and the harder they will be to<br />

4<br />

Shutterstock, Sabrina Mellare<br />

44 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Earthy Tips | SHORT SHOOTS<br />

remove. For particularly stubborn weeds you<br />

can use ingredients from the pantry to help<br />

you out. Try pouring boiling water directly<br />

onto the weed or spraying a bad patch with<br />

white vinegar. Sprinkling salt granules works<br />

well on pathways when you want to remove<br />

all the vegetation from between cracks and<br />

crevices, as long as you don’t have saltwater<br />

running off into the garden or lawn.<br />

8<br />

9<br />

Hot pot<br />

Pot plants can get extremely<br />

hot in the summertime, which<br />

can lead to root damage and death. To<br />

keep your plants cool, top dress them in<br />

mulch and move them out of the sun in the<br />

middle of the day. Plastic and terracotta<br />

pots retain the most heat whereas thick or<br />

glazed ceramic and concrete pots will keep<br />

plants cool, healthy and less stressed.<br />

Pottery class<br />

Gypsum can be used to turn clay<br />

soil into fine, easily worked particles<br />

suitable for cultivation. However, not all clay<br />

soils respond well to gypsum. To test whether<br />

yours does, drop a clot of the soil in a glass of<br />

rainwater and observe the glass over the next<br />

24 hours. If the soil disperses into the water<br />

slowly and turns into a cloudy haze, it is sodic<br />

and will benefit from the addition of gypsum.<br />

If it does nothing, adding gypsum would be<br />

of no value.<br />

10<br />

Aussies vs<br />

mozzies<br />

Summer may be breeding season<br />

for mosquitoes but that doesn’t mean<br />

you need to let these bloodsuckers take<br />

over your backyard. To prevent breeding,<br />

ensure you don’t have stagnant water<br />

congregating in buckets, car tyres, empty<br />

pots or birdbaths. Keep goldfish in your<br />

garden pond to eat mosquito larvae<br />

and make sure children’s play pools are<br />

regularly emptied. Avoid store-bought<br />

insect repellent, which contains a host of<br />

harmful chemicals. Instead, cover up with<br />

long sleeves in the evening, rub lavender,<br />

tea-tree or eucalyptus oil into your skin,<br />

light citronella candles and plant tulsi, mint,<br />

marigold, lemon and neem around your<br />

outdoor entertaining area to help create a<br />

mosquito-free zone.<br />

8<br />

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the Natural Cleaning Solution<br />

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For a stockist near you, visit www.importants.com.au<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 45


WEEKEND GARDENING | Kids in the garden<br />

Flowers for picking are a must in any garden<br />

46 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Kids in the garden | WEEKEND GARDENING<br />

NATURE<br />

AND NURTURE<br />

There’s no better time than school holidays to turn<br />

your garden into a nature playground for the kids<br />

Words & photos Claire Bickle<br />

I<br />

strongly believe that in any child’s<br />

life, time spent the garden is<br />

an important stepping stone to<br />

understanding the greater picture<br />

of the natural world around them.<br />

Our children are the next in line to be<br />

the caretakers of this amazing, beautiful,<br />

fragile planet we call home. Now, more than<br />

ever, there are too many distractions and<br />

entertainments that don’t involve nature at<br />

all. We are seeing children parked in front<br />

of screens for hours on end, resulting in<br />

considerable health, mental and weight issues.<br />

Nature Deficit Disorder is becoming a thing.<br />

And what of the health issues of the<br />

planet? If the next generation has no<br />

connection to it, how and why will they care?<br />

But enough doom and gloom. If you’re<br />

reading this magazine you’re on a good path.<br />

Now it’s time to share that passion with your<br />

children, your grandchildren, the next-door<br />

neighbour’s children, even possibly your local<br />

school, daycare centre or community garden.<br />

Dandelion days ... finding<br />

beauty in the simplest things<br />

Creating a successful mix of garden and nature<br />

will ensure that your children will grow up and<br />

look back on their childhood with fond memories of<br />

the gardens and outdoor areas they played in.<br />

A lovely little ladybeetle<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 47


WEEKEND GARDENING | Kids in the garden<br />

There is so much you can incorporate into even the smallest of backyards —<br />

even courtyards and balconies — that will capture the imagination of<br />

a child and prick their curiosity, all the while nurturing a love of the<br />

environment and everything in it.<br />

The edible garden, along with the natural<br />

environment, is entwined with play — at<br />

the end of the day, there are no lines or<br />

boundaries between them. The edges are<br />

blurred and in the eyes of children it’s all fun!<br />

Creating a successful mix of garden and<br />

nature will ensure that your children will grow<br />

up and look back on their childhoods with<br />

fond memories of the gardens and outdoor<br />

areas they played in.<br />

Kids’ growing<br />

project: eggheads<br />

Here’s an easy growing project that<br />

even kids with no garden can try: cress<br />

eggheads. Grow your cute eggheads some<br />

hair, which you can then cut and sprinkle<br />

on your salads or sandwiches.<br />

Materials<br />

Empty, rinsed eggshells (just cut off<br />

the very top to allow growing space)<br />

Craft eyes (optional)<br />

Cotton wool<br />

Watercress seeds (kale, alfalfa, radish<br />

or mustard seeds can also be used)<br />

Textas or paint<br />

Egg carton or egg cups to stand<br />

eggheads in<br />

Method<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Draw faces on your eggshells and glue<br />

on googly eyes if using.<br />

2. Put cotton wool inside empty<br />

eggshells and dampen with water.<br />

3. Sprinkle seeds over cotton wool.<br />

4. Place eggheads in a sunny spot, like<br />

a windowsill and give more water as<br />

needed — don’t let them dry out but<br />

not too wet, either.<br />

5. In a few days they’ll be sprouting hair.<br />

Creating childfriendly<br />

habitat<br />

We’ve talked about the precious gift of<br />

observing nature and the lifelong skill of<br />

learning to grow edible plants, but we all<br />

know what children love to do best, and that<br />

is PLAY. And, as we also know, play is an<br />

integral part of learning.<br />

Last issue we looked at topics such<br />

as growing edible food plants from seed<br />

and the benefits that come with children<br />

understanding where their food comes from.<br />

When starting a new garden or<br />

redesigning an existing one, creating<br />

areas for children to express themselves<br />

through play is vital to their creativity and<br />

development, both physically and socially,<br />

whatever their cultural background or age.<br />

You don’t need to spend a fortune on<br />

the latest play equipment and gadgets<br />

for children to enable them to have fun.<br />

No matter what their circumstances and<br />

environment, they will play.<br />

So, when designing a garden with children<br />

in mind, here are a few ideas to incorporate<br />

into an existing garden or to keep in mind<br />

when starting a brand-new one. Even if there<br />

is no garden at all, some of these creative<br />

ideas can still be put into action.<br />

Nature’s playground<br />

Trees, fruiting plants, the edible patch,<br />

recycling, nature watch locations, winding<br />

pathways, stepping stones, ponds, flower<br />

gardens, scented plants and edibles ... these<br />

are just the tip of the iceberg.<br />

There is so much you can incorporate into<br />

even the smallest of backyards — including<br />

courtyards and balconies — that will capture<br />

the imagination of a child and prick their<br />

curiosity, all the while nurturing a love of the<br />

environment and everything in it.<br />

Water: Ponds, pot ponds and birdbaths. Of<br />

course, safety comes first when it comes to<br />

bodies of water and small children, so be<br />

sure to follow any local council regulations<br />

concerning pools, dams and large ponds.<br />

When our children were little we covered<br />

our pot ponds with chicken wire so there<br />

was no chance of small people falling in.<br />

The benefit of a water feature, whether a<br />

small birdbath or large pond, is it will attract<br />

a huge range of insects, birds, amphibians<br />

and reptiles.<br />

Trees: For shade, for climbing, for playing<br />

and dreaming under, as habitat for birds,<br />

possums, bugs and more. Why not choose<br />

a fruiting tree and then you have an annual<br />

harvest, too? Trees are the most amazing<br />

organisms and we need many more of them.<br />

Choose trees with interesting bark, some<br />

that lose their leaves in winter, bear fruit,<br />

have scented flowers or foliage or even<br />

have an interesting name.<br />

Bugs: Have a bug catcher on hand<br />

so there can be closer inspection and<br />

identification of backyard critters. There<br />

are many great books and websites for<br />

insect identification. Attracting insects to<br />

the garden is as easy as planting a few<br />

seeds of the right plant species to attract<br />

beneficial insects and pollinators.<br />

Bees: Bees should be a part of every<br />

backyard and, if you’re concerned about<br />

stings, why not go for a native bee box?<br />

We have both native and honeybees in<br />

our garden. The plight of the bee cannot<br />

be overstated. With populations in decline<br />

across the globe, it was concerning to read<br />

just the other day that it’s believed there<br />

are still around 750 bee species yet to be<br />

discovered, classified and documented.<br />

Worms: Most children love insects and<br />

creepy-crawlies; some don’t. Nonetheless,<br />

learning about recycling waste through<br />

keeping a worm farm can be great fun and<br />

educational. Keep your lidded worm-food<br />

bucket at the ready for all those scraps. Not<br />

only do the worms dispose of kitchen waste<br />

Harvesting the vegetables<br />

they have grown is always<br />

a rewarding task<br />

48 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Kids in the garden | WEEKEND GARDENING<br />

Curiosity: this is a Case Moth<br />

— did you know what it was?<br />

Snack-attack<br />

plants<br />

Plants that will have the kids snacking<br />

away in the garden, straight off the plants,<br />

include strawberries, cherry tomatoes,<br />

cucumbers, sweet corn, acerola cherries,<br />

passionfruit, blueberries and raspberries.<br />

but they turn it into fertiliser in the form of<br />

castings and worm wee for the garden.<br />

Pets and other creatures: Pets give<br />

children the skills and knowledge to be<br />

responsible for another living thing, whether<br />

it’s a stick insect or a dog.<br />

Another way to bring interactive fun to<br />

the backyard garden space is to keep a few<br />

chickens or ducks, or maybe even some little<br />

living lawn-mowers like guinea pigs. And<br />

don’t forget about silkworms and ant and<br />

worm farms.<br />

Plant it up<br />

Edibles: Growing plants that can be easily<br />

accessed and picked for snacks on the<br />

run can be a fun way to learn about food<br />

and be healthy as well. Our acerola cherry<br />

(Malpighia glabra) is a big hit and a great<br />

substitute for a cherry tree in warmer<br />

climates. The fruit is delicious and contains<br />

up to 36 times more vitamin C than an<br />

orange. Any edibles that are fast growing<br />

and fun to harvest or prepare for meals are<br />

always good choices.<br />

Scented plants: Scent is one of the<br />

strongest triggers of memories. To me,<br />

any garden, whether there are children<br />

frequenting it or not, needs to have a variety<br />

of scented plants, with both fragrant foliage<br />

and perfumed blooms.<br />

Scented foliage, of course, covers<br />

a large number of the herbs we know<br />

as well as great Aussie species like<br />

lemon-scented myrtle (Backhousia<br />

citriodora) and cinnamon myrtle<br />

(Backhousia myrtifolia). Besides the<br />

common herbs, top choices are scented<br />

geraniums, lavender, old-fashioned roses,<br />

freesias, gardenias, jasmine, brunfelsia,<br />

frangipani, wisteria, port wine magnolia —<br />

the list could be endless.<br />

Keeping the<br />

dream alive<br />

In an increasingly busy world with both<br />

parents working, a plethora of electronic<br />

devices, TV and other gadgets, children need<br />

more encouragement to play outside. Trying<br />

to find that elusive spare time to spend<br />

together as a family — preferably outdoors —<br />

is vital. So create your adventure playground<br />

today with a mix of natural environments for<br />

nature watch, a vegetable patch, a sensual<br />

garden with plants for scent and touch and<br />

maybe a couple of chickens and a bit of<br />

space to run around and dream in.<br />

Hopefully, you have been inspired to get<br />

the kids out into the garden to become the<br />

next generation of gardeners, naturalists,<br />

entomologists and environmentalists — or<br />

just lovers of the great outdoors.<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 49


GARDENING CHALLENGE | Growing truffles<br />

Truffles: worth the trouble<br />

Australia’s burgeoning truffle industry is making home gardeners<br />

curious about growing the fungus in their backyards<br />

Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

Interested in eating truffles? No, not the chocolate type, but those<br />

curious, black, richly scented fungi that can cost a fortune. A truffle is<br />

an edible ascomycete fungus. The edible part is found underground<br />

where it grows like a tuber. The name “truffle” literally means lump or<br />

tuber, which is also the fungus’s botanic name: Tuber melanosporum.<br />

Truffles are very expensive to buy, strongly flavoured and<br />

used sparingly when added to dishes such as omelettes, pasta<br />

or pizza, or infused into oils.<br />

Origin of truffles<br />

Edible truffles are native to Europe, particularly Spain, France and Italy,<br />

but are now grown around the world. Truffles form a close relationship<br />

with the roots of certain trees — including birch, oak, hazelnut and<br />

pine — and grow naturally in forests.<br />

The relationship is a two-way process. The tree provides the fungus<br />

with sugars while truffles appear to help the roots absorb nutrients.<br />

As well as growing black truffles, Australian farmers are also<br />

experimenting with other species, including the white truffle<br />

and the summer truffle, which matures later than black truffles<br />

and extends the truffle season.<br />

Truffles in Australia<br />

In Australia, truffles are grown commercially, farmed in tree plantations<br />

known as trufferies. To get started, the truffle fungus is inoculated<br />

into the roots of host trees and the young trees are then planted.<br />

Favoured trees for black truffle production are oaks — particularly<br />

holm oak and English oak — and hazelnuts. Stone pines are<br />

preferred for white truffles.<br />

Truffle farming is a relatively new industry for Australia. The<br />

first black truffle was produced in north-west Tasmania near<br />

Deloraine in 1999. Today there are an estimated 200–300<br />

commercial truffle growers spread across the south of Western<br />

Australia and South Australia as well as in parts of northern<br />

50 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Growing truffles | GARDENING CHALLENGE<br />

Tasmania, Victoria, the ACT, NSW and Queensland. The largest<br />

production region is around Manjimup in WA, which has an ideal<br />

climate for truffle production.<br />

Truffle pioneer and grower Tim Terry from Truffle Australis in<br />

Tasmania recommends areas in Australia within 28–43 degrees of<br />

latitude with cool to cold winters, mild summers and reliable water.<br />

Production cycle<br />

Truffles take years to become productive. They thrive in well-drained<br />

soils that are high in calcium or with added lime in areas with good<br />

rainfall or access to irrigation. The black truffle is harvested in<br />

autumn and early winter, while the summer truffle is harvested<br />

later in the year.<br />

Trees impregnated with fungal spore can take four years or<br />

more to produce truffles. For commercial growers it can be a<br />

further two to four years before truffles appear in commercial<br />

quantities. As the tree grows and the truffle spore multiplies,<br />

harvests increase.<br />

According to Fred Harden, communications manager with the<br />

Australian Truffle Growers Association, the harvest ranges from<br />

truffles that weigh just a few grams to the production of several<br />

kilograms from around a single tree.<br />

Truffles can sell for between $1500 and $2000 a kilogram<br />

If nothing else, you’ll get a nice<br />

tree and maybe some hazelnuts<br />

and currently retail for around $2.60 to $3.40 per gram.<br />

Australia’s truffle harvest has been growing steadily since<br />

the 1990s with 8–10 tonnes now produced annually, putting<br />

Australia at number four in world truffle production. Production<br />

is forecast to grow as more trufferies reach commercial<br />

production levels.<br />

“This level of production more than meets current local<br />

demand, meaning truffles are also exported,” says Fred Hardin.<br />

Black truffles<br />

Sifting for buried treasure<br />

Shutterstock<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 51


GARDENING CHALLENGE | Growing truffles<br />

White truffles<br />

Fresh Australian truffles reach the lucrative European markets<br />

when local produce is unavailable, which makes our truffles<br />

highly desirable.<br />

As well as being slow to produce, truffles need many months<br />

to develop and ripen. The part that’s eaten begins to grow in<br />

spring, developing from a tiny hollow cup into a dark warty<br />

lump, which becomes black with white veins. They grow in the<br />

soil, usually at a depth of about 15cm but sometimes more than<br />

30cm deep.<br />

Truffles have a rich, earthy fungus smell, which helps in<br />

locating them beneath the soil surface when they are ready to<br />

harvest. Pigs traditionally feasted on truffles growing wild in<br />

forests and were used to find wild truffles. Today, specially trained<br />

dogs are used to find truffles in commercial truffle farms.<br />

Backyard truffles<br />

Truffle growing ranges from large plantings on farms to smaller<br />

plantings on hobby farms. And, yes, even home growers are starting<br />

to give it a go. Trees inoculated with truffle spore are available<br />

occasionally at garden centres and in the plant section of large<br />

hardware outlets.<br />

Fred Hardin from the Australian Truffle Growers Association<br />

says that right now truffles aren’t likely to be a successful part of<br />

a productive suburban backyard but adds that things may change.<br />

“Truffles have very particular growing needs, including needing the<br />

right soil pH, which means adding lots of lime to most Australian soils<br />

and pruning the tree to encourage root growth, and they take time,” Fred<br />

explains. “But that doesn’t mean things won’t change in the future.”<br />

Things are also changing for both commercial producers and hobbyists<br />

considering truffle growing as there is now the possibility of buying and<br />

planting certified trees, making production less of a hit-and-miss affair.<br />

“There is a certification system operating in Australia<br />

to certify that trees inoculated with truffle spores<br />

are going to produce truffles,” Fred says. “There are<br />

two Australian growers offering certified trees to<br />

commercial growers and we hope others will follow.”<br />

Marcos Morcillo, a truffle grower in Spain,<br />

has just published Truffle Farming Today,<br />

a comprehensive guide to truffle growing<br />

with examples and experiences from<br />

around the world. In his book, Marcos is<br />

positive about the future of truffle farming<br />

as more plantations are planted, more scientific<br />

research is carried out and more is known about<br />

these curious edible fungi. He even suggests that<br />

one day there may be the possibility of a bonsai truffle<br />

tree for the backyard. Truffle lovers stand by!<br />

Is truffle growing for you?<br />

Still keen, despite the difficulties? If you live in a suitable climate with<br />

cold winters and mild summers, have good rich, well-drained soil<br />

and are up for the challenge of raising truffles in your own backyard<br />

trufferie, look for inoculated trees that are certified, or purchase from a<br />

local commercial grower who retails to the public.<br />

When preparing the ground for planting it’s important to<br />

amend your planting soil to raise the pH to around 8 by adding<br />

lime. Give the trees plenty of space to grow as well as extra care to<br />

encourage each tree to form a strong and vigorous root system.<br />

This care includes regular watering, especially if summers<br />

are dry. Then be patient, as truffles take many years to form.<br />

If all else fails, you’ll have grown some shady trees in your<br />

garden and made the world a better place!<br />

English oak<br />

More<br />

information<br />

For further information on truffle<br />

growing, contact the Australian<br />

Truffle Growers Association at<br />

trufflegrowers.com.au. For more<br />

on Marcos Morcillo’s trufflegrowing<br />

advice or to buy his<br />

book, see his website micofora.<br />

com or follow his blog at<br />

trufflefarming.wordpress.com.<br />

Shutterstock<br />

52 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


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PLANT HEALTH | Disease distress<br />

Mango anthracnose<br />

GARDEN FIRST AID<br />

In addition to insect attack, summer humidity can bring<br />

with it a range of fungal diseases that will go straight for your<br />

precious plants if you’re not vigilant and proactive<br />

Words & photos Claire Bickle<br />

If it’s not the insect population or<br />

four-legged marsupials, it’s some plant<br />

disease or virus attacking your prize<br />

edibles and floral delights in the garden.<br />

What are the key problems we have to<br />

deal with at this time, and how do we go<br />

about eradicating them — or preventing<br />

them taking hold in the first place — without<br />

using nasty chemicals?<br />

Here are some of the commonest fungal<br />

diseases that home gardeners often come<br />

across in their patch.<br />

Anthracnose<br />

This disease is a serious problem, requiring<br />

both pre- and post-harvest sprays. The main<br />

species the home gardener has to worry<br />

about is Colletotrichum spp. It will affect<br />

mangoes, avocadoes, tomatoes, passionfruit,<br />

capsicums, chillies, bananas and a large<br />

range of tropical crops.<br />

Symptoms include a variety of black spots:<br />

recessed black spots on fruit to raised small<br />

clusters of spots, depending on plant species<br />

affected, as well as black discolouration on<br />

flower buds and spikes, black spots and<br />

yellowing on leaves. Flowers and buds<br />

can drop, meaning poor fruit set and<br />

limited crops.<br />

The spores overwinter in the soil and<br />

anthracnose can even be seed-borne. It<br />

spreads via water droplets and is far worse<br />

in warm and/or cool humid conditions.<br />

During dry weather, anthracnose is virtually<br />

non-existent.<br />

Treatment<br />

Apply a copper spray just before<br />

flowering and during the early stages<br />

of fruit set.<br />

Shutterstock<br />

54 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Remove any infected fruit and foliage.<br />

Remove any dead wood and twigs, and<br />

burn if possible.<br />

Practise crop rotation with annuals.<br />

Avoid overhead irrigation and improve<br />

air circulation.<br />

Choose disease-resistant varieties.<br />

Black spot (roses &<br />

pawpaws)<br />

Black spot is a broadly used common name for<br />

a variety of fungal issues that — you guessed<br />

it — exhibit black spots on foliage, flowers and<br />

fruit. Roses are renowned for black spot fungal<br />

issues and, even though not often eaten (well,<br />

the flowers and hips can be), they are such an<br />

important and widely grown flowering plant<br />

in gardens across the world that people are<br />

always looking for organic options when it<br />

comes to controlling pests and diseases.<br />

Black spot can be more prevalent on roses<br />

in warm, humid subtropical areas. The signs,<br />

of course, are the tell-tale black spots and<br />

yellowing of foliage, which can then drop off.<br />

It can even attack the stems of the rose and<br />

cause dieback. With all this going on, the<br />

plant can become weakened, prone to other<br />

diseases and insect attack, and produce<br />

fewer and smaller blooms.<br />

As for pawpaws, it’s the onset of cooler<br />

winter weather that can bring on a nasty case<br />

of black spot.<br />

Control<br />

Choose varieties that are diseaseresistant<br />

if possible; in warmer climates<br />

some of the old-fashioned teas and China<br />

roses do remarkably well.<br />

Spray with an organic fungicide such as<br />

Eco-fungicide to not only kill existing<br />

spores but also change the pH on the<br />

surface of the leaves and plant stems,<br />

making them more alkaline and less<br />

habitable for fungal diseases. Use a small<br />

of amount of Eco-oil mixed into the spray<br />

to help it stick to the plant.<br />

Copper and sulphur-based sprays can<br />

also be used.<br />

Remove any disease-affected leaves and<br />

throw them into the bin.<br />

Make sure you are giving your plants the<br />

right growing conditions with the required<br />

hours of sun a day and good airflow. This<br />

will help prevent fungal problems.<br />

Avoid watering the foliage, especially in<br />

the late afternoon.<br />

Keep plants healthy and less vulnerable<br />

to disease attack by feeding with<br />

recommended organic fertilisers<br />

throughout the growing seasons and<br />

when recommended.<br />

Applications of seaweed will also be<br />

of benefit and act as a preventive,<br />

strengthening the cell walls of the<br />

plant and encouraging stronger,<br />

healthier growth.<br />

Consider spraying the ground around the<br />

plant with fungicide as well, to catch any<br />

spores lingering there.<br />

Pawpaws lacking in potassium,<br />

magnesium or phosphorus can be more<br />

susceptible. Add potassium (sulphate of<br />

potash), phosphorus (rock dust minerals<br />

and/or magnesium (Epsom salts) to the<br />

feeding regime to ensure no deficiencies.<br />

Disease distress | PLANT HEALTH<br />

Peach leaf curl<br />

This fungal disease affects peaches<br />

and nectarines in cooler climates.<br />

Symptoms include puckering of foliage<br />

and sometimes even quite severe<br />

distortion with a pinkish blotching or<br />

discolouration. The leaves will usually<br />

drop prematurely. This, in turn, affects<br />

fruit production.<br />

Leaf curl remains secretly dormant<br />

on these deciduous fruit trees, appearing<br />

and infecting foliage as soon as the first<br />

shoots appear.<br />

Control<br />

There is no effective treatment for it once<br />

this disease has a foothold, so prevention<br />

is the key.<br />

Spray trees with a copper-based spray<br />

just as the growth buds start to swell.<br />

Be sure to spray the branches and<br />

trunk as well, to catch any spores<br />

that have been resting dormant<br />

over winter.<br />

Trees that are infected need all<br />

the help they can get, so keep up<br />

the applications of liquid seaweed<br />

as a foliar spray. Regular watering<br />

and the application of organic fertilisers<br />

will help the tree to survive through<br />

the growing season.<br />

After leaf drop in winter, gather up all<br />

the old foliage and follow the above<br />

directions in late winter and again<br />

early spring.<br />

Applications of gypsum for added<br />

calcium will also strengthen the plant<br />

cell walls against disease attack.<br />

Black spot on roses<br />

Peach leaf curl needs<br />

preventive treatment<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 55


PLANT HEALTH | Disease distress<br />

Sooty mould on an orange — a<br />

telltale sign that there are other<br />

pests infesting the tree, more<br />

than likely scale<br />

Make sure you are giving your plants the<br />

right growing conditions with the required<br />

hours of sun a day and good airflow. This<br />

will help prevent fungal problems.<br />

Powdery mildew on silver beet<br />

Rust spores starting on the<br />

underside of frangipani leaf<br />

Powdery mildew<br />

This fungal disease attacks a wide range<br />

of plants and spreads like a white or grey<br />

powdery mould on the leaves, stems and<br />

flower buds.<br />

Powdery mildew is an aggressive fungal<br />

disease that can easily kill smaller plants and<br />

set back larger specimens as it affects the<br />

plants’ ability to photosynthesise.<br />

Plants commonly attacked include<br />

zucchini, squash, mustard, mint, roses,<br />

hydrangeas, peas, gerberas and more. It can<br />

appear because the plant species is being<br />

grown in too much shade, there’s insufficient<br />

airflow, the weather is cool and humid,<br />

especially at night, or the plant is stressed<br />

due to being grown out of season or having<br />

inadequate nutrition and/or water.<br />

Control<br />

Spray plants as soon as possible with a<br />

fungicide such as Eco-fungicide. This<br />

fungicide is curative as well as preventive.<br />

Spray susceptible plants with a solution<br />

of one part full-cream milk to nine parts<br />

water — particularly effective before<br />

mildew appears.<br />

Wettable sulphur can also be used under<br />

organic certification.<br />

Foliar sprays and in-ground applications<br />

of seaweed will strengthen plants’ cell<br />

walls and make them more resistant to<br />

mildew attack.<br />

Be sure your plants have good airflow.<br />

Don’t water overhead, especially at the<br />

end of the day.<br />

56 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Disease distress | PLANT HEALTH<br />

Grow plants in the right season.<br />

Keep plants well watered and fed —<br />

stress on the plants invites trouble.<br />

*** Watch for the yellow-and-black<br />

fungus-eating lady beetles, Psyllobora<br />

vigintimaculata. Believe it or not, they actually<br />

eat the mildew but, even though<br />

they do a good job, these little guys are<br />

never quite enough to get on top of a<br />

full-blown outbreak.<br />

Rust<br />

Once again, rust is a broad term used for a<br />

group of fungal species that attack a large<br />

variety of plants.<br />

The common symptoms of rust are the<br />

circular fruiting bodies or spores, which will<br />

generally appear on the undersides of the<br />

leaves and can be yellow to orange to brown<br />

in colour. The tops of the leaves will often<br />

have a yellow mottled appearance and in a<br />

severe enough case of rust the foliage may<br />

even drop off.<br />

Beans, geraniums, snapdragons, orchids ...<br />

there’s a long list of plants that rust can affect.<br />

Control<br />

<strong>Organic</strong> registered fungicides are worth a<br />

go. Remember to spray the undersides of<br />

the leaves.<br />

Watering early in the morning rather than<br />

late in the evening gives plants time to<br />

dry out before nightfall. This can help<br />

reduce the incidence of fungal problems.<br />

Make sure any susceptible plants have<br />

good airflow.<br />

Give regular feeding and applications of<br />

seaweed to strengthen cell walls of plants.<br />

Sooty mould<br />

This disease appears on plants as a black<br />

soot-like mould covering all parts of the plant,<br />

from leaves to fruit and stems. A multitude of<br />

plants are susceptible to sooty mould issues,<br />

from citrus to gardenias.<br />

The reason you have black sooty mould<br />

on your plants is a little tricky because the<br />

mould doesn’t just show up on its own;<br />

there’s also a secondary infection from the<br />

presence of a sap-sucking insect. The insect<br />

attacking your plant is literally sucking the<br />

goodness out of it, then excreting a sticky<br />

honeydew substance all over the plant. It’s on<br />

the excretion that the sooty mould grows.<br />

And as long as the particular sap sucker<br />

is in place, the sooty mould will keep being<br />

a problem. Indentify the sap-sucking insect<br />

and remove it to break the cycle and rid your<br />

plants of sooty mould.<br />

Control<br />

Here, the insect needs to be identified and<br />

then the appropriate organic control used or<br />

preventive measure put in place.<br />

A lot of sap-sucking insects such as<br />

scale, aphids, thrips and mealybugs can<br />

be controlled with Eco-oil or other oilbased<br />

plant sprays.<br />

Eco-neem is registered to control a variety<br />

of sucking insects on ornamental plants.<br />

Keep your plants healthy with adequate<br />

feeding and water to make them less<br />

prone to insect attack in the first place.<br />

Remove the sooty mould once the<br />

insect infestation has been dealt<br />

with. This is relatively easy as a lot<br />

of the sooty mould will flake off. Any<br />

residual mould can be hosed off. A bit<br />

of warm soapy water before hosing<br />

will help.<br />

It hardly needs reiterating that prevention is<br />

always better than cure. The best prevention<br />

includes seasonal growing, good soil<br />

preparation, regular watering and mulching,<br />

fertilising for optimal growth and applications<br />

of helpful substances like seaweed and<br />

gypsum for strengthening cell walls and<br />

general good health.<br />

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to help save our planet.<br />

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Made from bamboo, they are biodegradable and environmentally<br />

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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 57


SAFER SOLUTIONS | Dipel<br />

Rose budworm damage<br />

Clever soil bacteria<br />

Bacillus thuringiensis<br />

While organic gardeners prefer to garden as naturally as<br />

possible, sometimes a little help may be needed<br />

Words & photos Angie Thomas<br />

Like our bodies, soil contains billions<br />

of bacteria. In fact, they are crucially<br />

important to the health of soil<br />

as they’re involved in important<br />

processes such as breaking down organic<br />

matter and converting nitrogen from the<br />

atmosphere into plant-available nitrogen.<br />

One particularly special soil bacterium<br />

is Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally<br />

occurring, aerobic, spore-forming<br />

bacterium that has insecticidal properties.<br />

The history of Bacillus thuringiensis<br />

(Bt) is fascinating. A Japanese biologist<br />

first identified the bacterium in 1901 while<br />

researching the cause of an unknown<br />

silkworm disease. Ten years later in 1911,<br />

a German scientist rediscovered Bacillus<br />

thuringiensis during investigations into a<br />

flour moth disease and, by 1920, farmers<br />

were using Bt as an insecticide.<br />

How does Bt work?<br />

When the Bt bacteria produce spores<br />

they naturally form crystalline proteins<br />

(endotoxins) that affect insects — in<br />

particular, Lepidoptera caterpillars, which<br />

are caterpillars of moths and butterflies.<br />

Bt must be ingested by caterpillars to<br />

be effective. It does not work via contact<br />

action and therefore needs to be applied<br />

when the insects are in their larval stages<br />

and feeding on host plants.<br />

Once ingested the endotoxins paralyse<br />

the cells in the caterpillar’s gut, they stop<br />

feeding and will succumb to starvation or<br />

infection. This usually occurs within a few<br />

hours, though some caterpillars may remain,<br />

inactive, on plant foliage for 3–4 days.<br />

Bt targets particular receptor sites<br />

in the caterpillar and has no effect on<br />

humans as we lack those receptors. Bt<br />

also does not affect beneficial insects,<br />

pets and wildlife. Because it specifically<br />

targets caterpillar pests and is safe<br />

58 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


for both users and the environment, it<br />

provides gardeners with an effective option<br />

for protecting homegrown produce.<br />

B. thuringiensis is available as several<br />

different strains or subspecies, each<br />

having a specific toxicity to particular<br />

types of insects. The Bt most commonly<br />

available to home gardeners is Bacillus<br />

thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki, often known<br />

as Dipel. Home garden products are<br />

usually wettable powders that are mixed<br />

in water and sprayed over foliage.<br />

Bt is not absorbed into plant foliage<br />

and is degraded by UV light, so does<br />

not persist on plants. Bt-based products<br />

usually don’t have a withholding period,<br />

so homegrown produce sprayed with Bt<br />

can be eaten straightaway (rinsing before<br />

eating is always recommended,<br />

of course).<br />

For home gardeners, the most common<br />

caterpillar pests include cabbage white<br />

butterfly, cabbage moth, armyworm,<br />

budworm and loopers.<br />

Bluish-green cabbage white butterfly<br />

caterpillars can devour mountains<br />

of vegetables such as cabbage,<br />

kale, cauliflower and broccoli, leaving<br />

Dipel | SAFER SOLUTIONS<br />

Bt targets particular<br />

receptor sites in the<br />

caterpillar and has no<br />

effect on humans as we<br />

lack those receptors.<br />

Bt also does not affect<br />

beneficial insects, pets<br />

and wildlife.<br />

Cabbage white butterfly caterpillar<br />

feasting on kale<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 59


SAFER SOLUTIONS | Dipel<br />

Green looper caterpillar<br />

nothing but leaf skeletons (and lots of<br />

green droppings!).<br />

Cabbage moth caterpillars are around<br />

1cm long, green to brown coloured and<br />

will curl up if disturbed. Cabbage moth<br />

populations tend to increase during dry<br />

conditions and the caterpillars enjoy<br />

feeding on brassica vegetables as well as<br />

flowers in the brassica family, such as stock.<br />

Armyworm caterpillars are most often<br />

found in lawns, but there are some types<br />

of armyworm that will attack vegetables<br />

like corn, beetroot and tomatoes and<br />

will also eat both flowers and foliage of<br />

ornamental plants. Young armyworm<br />

caterpillars are green and turn brown and<br />

striped as they mature.<br />

Budworm caterpillars (Heliothis)<br />

grow to around 4cm long and can be yellow,<br />

green or brown with white and dark stripes.<br />

Budworms commonly feed on tomatoes and<br />

corn but can also eat through rosebuds,<br />

geraniums and petunias.<br />

Green looper caterpillars, which are<br />

bright green with white stripes, can be<br />

found on roses and other flowers as<br />

well as fruit and vegetables including<br />

silverbeet, lettuce, brassicas, beans,<br />

tomatoes and strawberries.<br />

When there are only a few caterpillars,<br />

you can just pick them off by hand (though<br />

they can be masters of camouflage and<br />

concealment) and also make a juicy meal<br />

for birds. Caterpillars also have some natural<br />

insect enemies, such as parasitic wasps and<br />

flies, predatory shield bugs and assassin<br />

bugs, which can help reduce caterpillar<br />

populations. So it’s good to encourage them<br />

to your garden. The beneficial nematode<br />

Steinernema carpocapsae is a natural<br />

predator of armyworm.<br />

However, when caterpillar numbers are<br />

significant and you want to be able to harvest<br />

some of your much-loved herbs and vegies<br />

rather than just provide a rich source of<br />

caterpillar food, a Bt insecticide provides<br />

an environmentally soft option to keep<br />

caterpillars under control.<br />

There are Bt-based insecticides available<br />

to home gardeners that are certified<br />

organic by Australian Certified <strong>Organic</strong>.<br />

Assassin bugs (Pristhesancus plagipennis)<br />

help to control caterpillars<br />

So organic gardeners can use a naturally<br />

derived, organically certified way to control<br />

caterpillar pests.<br />

When there are only<br />

a few caterpillars, you<br />

can just pick them off by<br />

hand (though they can be<br />

masters of camouflage and<br />

concealment). They also<br />

make a juicy meal for birds.<br />

James Niland CC<br />

60 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


®<br />

Caterpillar<br />

Killer<br />

• Yates ® Nature’s Way ® Caterpillar Killer, also known<br />

as Dipel, will control common chewing insect pests<br />

like caterpillars, budworm and loopers on flowers and<br />

ornamentals, fruit, vegies and herbs.<br />

• Yates Nature’s Way Caterpillar Killer is certified by Australian<br />

Certified <strong>Organic</strong>, so it’s ideal for gardeners wanting to<br />

organically control insect pests.<br />

• Yates Nature’s Way Caterpillar Killer is available in a<br />

40g pack, which makes 40L of spray.<br />

• A percentage of sales of Nature’s Way products are<br />

donated to Landcare Australia to support important<br />

environmental projects.<br />

L – R:<br />

tomato caterpillar, cabbage white butterfly caterpillar, budworm.<br />

For more gardening advice ph 1300 369 074<br />

or visit www.yates.com.au<br />

Yates Australia, 1 Gow St. Padstow NSW 2211<br />

Yates and Nature’s Way are registered trade marks of DuluxGroup Pty Ltd Australia


THE SHED | Making BIM<br />

The<br />

cultured<br />

garden<br />

Cultivating beneficial<br />

indigenous micro-organisms<br />

(BIM) in your garden<br />

Words Sandra Tuszynska<br />

Naturally occurring microorganisms<br />

promote plant<br />

growth by fixing nitrogen,<br />

decomposing soil organic<br />

matter and transporting plant nutrients. We<br />

can actually harvest and cultivate beneficial<br />

indigenous micro-organisms (BIM), also<br />

known as indigenous micro-organisms (IMO),<br />

and add them to our soil, plants and compost.<br />

Beneficial soil micro-organisms should<br />

be harvested from healthy habitats such<br />

as an abundant, healthy vegetable garden,<br />

an undisturbed forest, a meadow or other<br />

vegetated habitat. Combining the microorganisms<br />

collected from various sites<br />

will increase the strength and benefits<br />

of the inoculant.<br />

62 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Making BIM | THE SHED<br />

Untreated wooden box<br />

Cooked rice<br />

Creating the<br />

growth medium<br />

Materials<br />

A small untreated wooden box,<br />

30cm × 30cm × 10cm deep<br />

Cooked white rice<br />

Paper towels or newspaper, enough<br />

to cover the wooden box<br />

Thick shadecloth large enough<br />

to cover the box<br />

Rubber bands<br />

1cm wire screen large enough to<br />

completely cover the wooden box<br />

A small shovel<br />

Procedure<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Cook enough rice to cover the bottom of<br />

the box. About <strong>1.</strong>5–2 cups of raw rice should<br />

make enough. Use the absorption method<br />

for boiling the rice. This will make sure it’s<br />

aerated and will supply enough oxygen for<br />

the aerobic (requiring air) micro-organisms.<br />

Rice usually increases its volume by 3–4<br />

times when cooked.<br />

2. Place the rice in the box. The thickness<br />

of the rice layer should not be greater than<br />

5–6cm once in the box.<br />

3. Cover the rice with paper towel, clean newspaper<br />

or thick shadecloth, making sure it’s not<br />

touching the rice and is at least 5cm above it.<br />

Place cooked<br />

rice in box<br />

Cover rice but make sure<br />

covering is at least 5cm above<br />

rice and not touching it<br />

Cover with wire<br />

to prevent attack<br />

by animals<br />

4. Cover the box with a wire screen to<br />

prevent animals getting into the rice, then<br />

loosely cover the box with some clear<br />

plastic to prevent rain and dew wetting<br />

the rice.<br />

5. Choose a spot in the shade under a tree,<br />

away from direct sun. Bury the box in at<br />

least 5cm of soil. Cover the box with leaves<br />

and debris collected from the site. Leave<br />

undisturbed for 4–5 days. On average,<br />

colonisation takes 4–5 days below 20°C and<br />

3–4 days above 20°C. (See photo next page.)<br />

6. Check the box for signs of white mould<br />

and leave for longer if sparse.<br />

7. Check the mould/fungal growth again after<br />

2–3 days. The process has been successful<br />

if thick white/yellowish mould is covering<br />

the rice. Coloured colonies of microbial<br />

growth are not as beneficial, so repeat<br />

the process if necessary.<br />

Culturing the<br />

micro-organisms<br />

Materials<br />

Clay or ceramic bowl<br />

Glass jars to fit the rice mixture in<br />

Brown sugar or molasses<br />

Cheesecloth or paper towels<br />

Rubber bands<br />

Scale to weigh the rice (optional)<br />

Procedure<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Once you’ve obtained white mould<br />

growth on the rice, remove from the box<br />

and place the mixture in the bowl, but<br />

first weigh the bowl alone and then with<br />

the mixture in it; the difference will give<br />

you the weight of rice, which is the same<br />

as the weight of sugar needed to feed the<br />

micro-organisms. The rule of thumb is to<br />

use equal parts sugar to equal parts rice.<br />

Thus, a kilogram of rice will require a<br />

kilogram of sugar (1kg rice + 1kg sugar or<br />

molasses). We used molasses.<br />

2. Gently mix the ingredients with clean<br />

hands, making sure not to completely<br />

destroy the fungal mat. You can use gloves<br />

if you prefer. Add a very small amount of<br />

water if the mixture feels quite dry, in the<br />

ratio of 1:500.<br />

3. Transfer this mixture into a glass jar and<br />

cover with cheesecloth or paper towel and<br />

place a rubber band around it. Leave<br />

it for 3–7 days to allow fermentation to<br />

take place.<br />

4. Now it’s ready to use as an inoculant.<br />

Add an equal amount of soil and<br />

incorporate it into the surface soil as a topdressing,<br />

or add it directly to your compost<br />

pile. This inoculant is designed to increase<br />

soil microbial activity and thus enhance<br />

soil health.<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 63


THE SHED | Making BIM<br />

Bury in at least 5cm of<br />

soil in a shady spot and<br />

cover with leaves and<br />

debris from the site<br />

White mycelium has<br />

formed on bark<br />

Creating a liquid<br />

inoculant<br />

You can also create a liquid inoculant<br />

from the fermented mixture that will<br />

last a long time.<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Add 3 parts water (6L for the 2kg of<br />

rice and sugar) to the mixture and leave<br />

for 7 days to allow fermentation to<br />

take place.<br />

2. Strain the liquid into another glass<br />

jar and cover with a paper towel or<br />

cheesecloth and secure with a<br />

rubber band.<br />

3. Fermentation will produce gas bubbles.<br />

When the bubbles stop forming, the<br />

process is complete and you can seal<br />

the jar.<br />

Add molasses (or<br />

brown sugar) and<br />

mix together<br />

4. To strengthen the potency of the<br />

inoculant, combine it with inoculants<br />

from different sites. Adding liquid whey<br />

(lacto- serum) from milk, available from<br />

healthfood shops, in a 1:1 ratio, will further<br />

increase the benefits of the inoculant.<br />

Application on your<br />

garden<br />

Dilute 2 tablespoons in 4L of water<br />

and spray on plants’ leaves, use as<br />

a soil drench or add to compost and<br />

organic fertiliser. This will help to<br />

encourage vogorous plant growth by<br />

increasing nutrient uptake and transport,<br />

at the same time increasing disease<br />

resistance and decomposing compost<br />

more rapidly.<br />

Post<br />

fermentation<br />

Transfer mixture<br />

to a jar<br />

Rice is now<br />

inoculated with<br />

micro-organisms<br />

Cover with<br />

cheesecloth and<br />

leave to ferment<br />

64 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Making BIM | THE SHED<br />

Once femented,<br />

strain to make<br />

liquid inoculant<br />

Final inoculant<br />

For more information<br />

theunconventionalfarmer.com/recipes/bim/ctahr.<br />

hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/BIO-9.pdf.<br />

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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 65


FEATHERED FRIENDS | Bantam ducks<br />

Bubba duckies<br />

If you want the fun of ducks without the volume,<br />

consider the cute miniature breeds<br />

Cute Call<br />

66 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Words Megg Miller<br />

Lots of people adore ducks. They love their daffy behaviour,<br />

comical gait and irrepressible delight in water play. Ducks<br />

are not for everyone, though, especially people living in<br />

densely packed inner cities.<br />

But if you admire their joie de vivre, have snails everywhere in the<br />

garden and are lucky enough to have a leafy area in the backyard,<br />

away from neighbours, then ducks will bring hours of pleasure.<br />

Small is sensible<br />

Like fowls, ducks come in varied sizes and shapes. Bantams have<br />

no large counterpart but miniatures have been bred down from<br />

standard-sized breeds.<br />

Why have a massive Pekin, as impressive as they are, when<br />

you could feed and keep several small bantams or miniatures?<br />

They eat less, require less room and their activity and<br />

athleticism result in fewer leg problems than may trouble<br />

large-bodied ducks.<br />

Small ducks are ideal for time-poor families. Set them up in a<br />

fully enclosed yard with a simple shelter and water facilities and<br />

their demands are minimal.<br />

Available breeds<br />

The cutest bantam is the Australian Call, a very small, very talkative<br />

breed. The females weigh in at 500–900g and a little heavier for<br />

males — just a handful, really. Colour? Pristine white offset with yellow<br />

legs and the bill is beautiful, but other pretty colours are available.<br />

When buying Calls, look for the breed’s distinctive rounded shape,<br />

including a domed head, rounded cheeks and short bill. Think<br />

cuddly. Calls look a little like the kiddies’ yellow bath duck.<br />

Availability is good, too.<br />

Mallards are the most popular bantam duck, probably because<br />

they can be found in numerous attractive colours. They are larger and<br />

longer bodied than Calls; even the bill is noticeably longer. Mallards<br />

have large, well-developed wings, indicating they are excellent<br />

A standard Silver Appleyard shows<br />

the breed’s pretty markings<br />

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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 67


FEATHERED FRIENDS | Bantam ducks<br />

A baby grey Call<br />

flyers. Actually, all small ducks fly well<br />

and you will need to take measures to<br />

restrict flight.<br />

While there’s no shortage of Mallards or<br />

breeders, be aware that in some states it’s<br />

mandatory for birds to be pinioned to prevent<br />

escape and breeding with wild ducks.<br />

The Black East Indian, an elegant<br />

little black-plumaged duck with a<br />

lustrous green sheen to its feathers, is<br />

A one-day-old white Call<br />

exceedingly rare, so it’s unlikely one will<br />

be available. The female can produce<br />

dark-grey-shelled eggs at the start<br />

of each laying season, a surprise for<br />

unsuspecting owners. Sadly, it’s on the<br />

rare breeds list.<br />

A particularly eyecatching miniature is<br />

the Silver Appleyard and, if you have the<br />

room to set up breeding, the excess stock<br />

could be handy for home consumption.<br />

With anticipated weights of <strong>1.</strong>2–<strong>1.</strong>4kg for<br />

drakes and <strong>1.</strong>1–<strong>1.</strong>3kg for ducks, the breed<br />

is suitable for eggs and meat.<br />

Miniature Silver Appleyard ducks are<br />

silver-white with strategically placed<br />

fawn streaks and flecks and a distinctive<br />

iridescent blue band on the wings. Drakes<br />

are traditionally marked with the full<br />

white neck ring, areas of green-black on<br />

the head and neck, and a claret-coloured<br />

body. Dapper is the description for this breed.<br />

Disadvantages<br />

Do not head off to the poultry auction<br />

until you’ve read this section. Like the<br />

Scouts, you must be prepared.<br />

Female ducks are notorious for their<br />

quacking (the drakes, by contrast, have<br />

weak voices), and Calls, in particular, are<br />

very chatty. The noise of quacking may<br />

irritate immediate neighbours, especially<br />

if the birds are penned relatively close to<br />

outdoor living areas.<br />

The messy conditions of duck pens will<br />

attract flies — again, another source of<br />

complaint from neighbours — and there’s<br />

not a lot that can be done with the ducks<br />

because they instinctively fossick and<br />

dabble wherever there is water.<br />

Flying is a natural instinct shared by<br />

ducks with a small stature. They must<br />

Coloured Calls<br />

Small ducks are ideal for<br />

time-poor families. Set them<br />

up in a fully enclosed yard<br />

with a simple shelter and<br />

water facilities and their<br />

demands are minimal.<br />

Shutterstock<br />

68 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Bantam ducks | FEATHERED FRIENDS<br />

either be pinioned (part of one wing is<br />

surgically modified to prevent flying),<br />

have the flight feathers on one wing<br />

trimmed regularly to unbalance flight or<br />

be kept in a fully covered pen.<br />

Sexual excess can be an issue. Some<br />

drakes are very sexually active and may<br />

hound ducks incessantly. Extra ducks<br />

may lessen the stress, but if space won’t<br />

allow you to expand numbers then a pen<br />

of females only will be a sounder choice.<br />

Remember, too, that mini ducks will<br />

produce small eggs but they are likely to<br />

be larger than most bantam hen eggs.<br />

Housing needs<br />

Predators as well as the likelihood of<br />

escape and flight have to be considered<br />

when setting up. Allow around 2m² per<br />

two birds when designing the pen, more<br />

room if possible.<br />

A 2m-high mesh-covered yard will<br />

allow most people easy movement in the<br />

pen. You might consider running a sheet<br />

of Colorbond horizontally at ground level<br />

to separate ducks from inquisitive dogs and<br />

kiddies and allow birds a sense of security.<br />

Sand or gravel on the base of the pen<br />

(15cm) will facilitate drainage; you cannot<br />

imagine the happy mess a couple of busy<br />

ducks can create if drainage is poor.<br />

Ducks need to have<br />

water deep enough to<br />

immerse their heads<br />

and maintain eye<br />

health and, while<br />

they enjoy swimming,<br />

a pond is not<br />

obligatory.<br />

An open-fronted shelter will protect<br />

from weather extremes and provide<br />

corners for ducks to lay in. Woodchips on<br />

the floor covered with straw in spring will<br />

offer a dry and comfy base for sleeping<br />

and laying.<br />

Ducks need to have water deep<br />

enough to immerse their heads and<br />

maintain eye health and, while they<br />

enjoy swimming, a pond is not obligatory.<br />

However, most people settle for a clam<br />

shell or similar shallow container that can<br />

be emptied easily.<br />

Elevating the “pond” so it sits on a<br />

slatted platform or a low, strong mesh<br />

cage reduces the amount of dirt and<br />

organic matter carried into the water.<br />

Whatever container is chosen, it should<br />

be stable and unable to flip over and<br />

suffocate the birds. It must be shallow<br />

enough for easy access, too. A ramp in<br />

the pond will allow exiting if the container<br />

is deep. Never ever use an old bath; it not<br />

only uses too much water but is difficult<br />

for ducks to get out of.<br />

It makes sense to locate the duck<br />

enclosure in a leafy part of the backyard.<br />

The ducks will keep cooler in hot weather<br />

while greenery will absorb noise and filter<br />

any odours.<br />

Rewarding your<br />

ducks<br />

Collect snails at night and offer the ducks<br />

a gastropod treat — they will devour<br />

them. You may be able to hang greens<br />

for the birds to nibble on; they will<br />

trample leaves and weeds if dumped<br />

on the ground.<br />

You’ll find this species hardy and long<br />

living and for just a little mixed grain and<br />

pellets daily you’ll be rewarded with<br />

fresh eggs. Set up the deckchairs and<br />

enjoy summer evenings watching the<br />

ducks’ antics.<br />

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<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 69


GARDEN TO TABLE | Four Seasonal Edibles<br />

Garden to table<br />

with The <strong>Organic</strong> Chef, Joanna Rushton<br />

74 Passionfruit<br />

Passionfruit & Peach Dairy-Free Cheesecake<br />

78 Parsnip<br />

Parma Ham & Pea Salad with Parsnip Chips<br />

82 Beetroot<br />

Beetroot & Chocolate Cake<br />

86 & 88 Sweet corn<br />

Corn & Chive Fritters with Avocado Salsa<br />

Fermented Sweet Corn & Chilli Relish<br />

70 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


74<br />

82<br />

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dense and rich in omega 3’s. We run no more than 600 hens per hectare. Our hens are always<br />

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www.organigrow.com.au


GROWING | Passionfruit<br />

Passionfruit<br />

Passiflora edulis<br />

Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

I’ve just been standing with a neighbour, Naomi, looking<br />

at the remains of her passionfruit vine. It’s a sad sight.<br />

What’s left is the unproductive, weedy understock. The<br />

productive vine succumbed to a cold snap, but the coldand<br />

disease-tolerant understock, Passiflora caerulea, can’t<br />

be halted. She has tried tearing it down and digging it out.<br />

The latest weapon is the family’s pet lamb, currently feeding<br />

around where the passionfruit understock is growing.<br />

Before the passionfruit died back, it produced buckets of<br />

passionfruit, so Naomi is keen to plant another vine, but she<br />

says it won’t be a grafted vine.<br />

Grafted vs own roots<br />

Passionfruit are usually sold as grafted plants. Grafting makes<br />

the vine more tolerant of poor soil and climate conditions<br />

but, as Naomi discovered, the graft can become a huge weed<br />

problem. As well as surviving when the main plant has died,<br />

suckering while the edible vine is still alive is also a problem.<br />

Although the suckering of varieties grafted on to<br />

P. caerulea is a potential garden problem, there are rootstocks<br />

that don’t sucker. Commercial vines are usually grafted onto<br />

P. edulis f. flavicarpa, a rootstock developed in Queensland<br />

that is disease-resistant and not prone to suckering.<br />

Some varieties are also grown from seed or cutting to<br />

overcome suckering problems. ‘Panama Red’ and ‘Pandora’<br />

may be sold as seed-grown plants, which means they are<br />

growing on their own roots. Black passionfruit is also available<br />

on its own roots.<br />

Planting and care<br />

Passionfruit is one of Australia’s favourite backyard crops and<br />

a useful plant to grow as a living screen for shade or privacy.<br />

Although they are warm-climate plants, passionfruit grow in<br />

all but the very coldest parts of the country.<br />

Tropical, subtropical and warm coastal zones produce the<br />

best vines. In cold areas, select a warm, sheltered spot with<br />

free-draining soil. Cold conditions and wet soils lead to poor<br />

growth or vine death and poor fruiting. Fruit that does form<br />

can be very slow to ripen.<br />

These vines also need space for their extensive root<br />

systems and spreading branches. They are not suited<br />

to growing in pots and may be difficult to manage in<br />

confined spaces.<br />

In tropical and subtropical climates, passionfruit vines<br />

fruit within six months of planting, which can be done at any<br />

time of the year. In temperate zones, however, flowering and<br />

fruiting can take 18 months from planting, which is best done<br />

in spring or early summer.<br />

Feed vines in spring and summer with pelletised organic<br />

manure or citrus food, spreading the fertiliser along the root<br />

system. Water well, particularly after planting, while times are<br />

Shutterstock<br />

72 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Passionfruit| GROWING<br />

Passionfruit label<br />

Common name: Passionfruit<br />

Botanical name: Passiflora edulis<br />

Family: Passifloraceae<br />

Aspect & soil: Sun, well-drained soil<br />

Best climate: Tropics, subtropics, temperate,<br />

Mediterranean<br />

Habit: Perennial vine<br />

Propagation: Seed, cutting, grafting<br />

Difficulty: Moderate<br />

dry and when plants are flowering and crops are maturing.<br />

Watch for suckers (look for the distinctive five-fingered,<br />

blue-green leaf as well as its blue flower) and remove suckers<br />

or seedlings promptly. If a vine dies, carefully dig up the root<br />

system to avoid future problems.<br />

Varieties<br />

‘Nellie Kelly’, a large-fruited black passionfruit, is the most<br />

popular backyard variety as it is self-fertile and tolerates a<br />

wide climate range. Other popular varieties are ‘Panama Red’,<br />

‘Panama Gold’ and ‘Pandora’. The latter three do best in warm<br />

or coastal climates and perform better with cross-pollination<br />

(requiring two separate vines).<br />

Popular in days gone by was the banana passionfruit<br />

(Passiflora mollissima), now considered a weed. This species<br />

was popular as it’s easy to grow and is self-fertile, producing<br />

lots of elongated, yellow, banana-shaped fruit.<br />

Passionfruit is one of Australia’s<br />

favourite backyard crops and a<br />

useful plant to grow as a living<br />

screen for shade or privacy.<br />

Pest insects can also lead to fruit drop. The passionvine<br />

hopper, which resembles a lacy-winged moth, is a major pest<br />

of passionfruit. These insects feed on the vine. When young,<br />

they appear as “fluffy bums” — that’s the name given to the<br />

cute-looking nymphs. <strong>Organic</strong> control is to deter them with a<br />

spray of the hose or to use a registered organic insecticide on<br />

the fluffy bums.<br />

Fruit that forms but contains little pulp may have been<br />

poorly pollinated or exposed to stress from insect pests, cold<br />

or lack of regular water.<br />

Lots of flowers but no fruit may be due to poor pollination.<br />

If the weather is cool, wet, windy or even overcast during<br />

flowering, pollination and fruit set may be poor. A lack of<br />

pollinating insects (often made worse by bad or cloudy<br />

weather) can also affect cropping. Hand pollination — using a<br />

dry paintbrush to transfer pollen to the female part of flowers<br />

— can overcome some pollinating problems and is most<br />

successful when done early in the morning.<br />

To overcome pollination problems, encourage bees and<br />

other pollinating insects by planting flowering herbs such as<br />

borage near the vines.<br />

Harvesting & preserving<br />

Fruit colour at ripening can be variable, but green fruit usually<br />

ripens to purple or black. However, ripe fruit may not be highly<br />

coloured. If green fruit drops to the ground it’s always worth<br />

cutting it open to taste for ripeness.<br />

Ripe fruit left on the ground may become sunburnt, so<br />

regularly collect fallen fruit. To make this easier, keep the<br />

ground around vines clear of weeds or long grass.<br />

Passionfruit can be eaten fresh straight from the skin with a<br />

spoon, or used to top fruit salad or a creamy dessert such as<br />

pavlova. Excess pulp can be frozen or turned into jam, sauce<br />

or cordial. The skins can also be used in some jam recipes..<br />

Passionvine hopper nymph, aka “fluffy bum”<br />

Andy Murray CC<br />

Fruiting clinic<br />

Until the vine is fully mature (6–18 months, depending on your<br />

climate), passionfruit may not flower or fruit. However, not<br />

getting fruit isn’t always due to immaturity of the vine. Lack<br />

of regular water, lack of pollinators or even sudden cold winds<br />

can all take their toll on fruit production.<br />

Too much shade slows ripening. To open up established<br />

plants to more sun for better fruiting and faster ripening,<br />

prune them in late winter or early spring. To do this, carefully<br />

remove a few of the tangle of stems so that fruit and flowers,<br />

when they appear, are better exposed to the light. Don’t cut<br />

the vine back hard.<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 73


COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Passionfruit<br />

Star ingredient: Passionfruit<br />

Passionfruit & Peach<br />

Dairy-Free Cheesecake<br />

The paleo way!<br />

Ingredients<br />

Base<br />

• ½ cup almonds<br />

• ½ cup pecans<br />

• 3 medjool dates,<br />

seeds removed<br />

Filling<br />

• Pulp of 10<br />

passionfruits<br />

(approx 1 cup pulp)<br />

• 4 peaches, skin &<br />

stones removed &<br />

roughly chopped<br />

• 1 cup coconut<br />

flakes<br />

• 1 tbsp melted<br />

coconut oil<br />

• 2 cups cashews,<br />

soaked in water for<br />

at least 4 hours<br />

• 2 tsp vanilla extract<br />

• 200mL coconut<br />

cream<br />

Method<br />

<strong>1.</strong> To make base, combine almonds, pecans,<br />

dates and coconut in food processor and<br />

blend until crumbly.<br />

2. Gradually add coconut oil.<br />

3. Transfer to 20cm spring-form cake pan<br />

and press with back of spoon to even out<br />

base. Place base in freezer.<br />

4. To make filling, strain ½ cup of<br />

passionfruit pulp (reserving remainder) over<br />

medium-sized saucepan and discard seeds.<br />

5. Add peach flesh to saucepan. Stir over<br />

low–medium heat until simmering. Continue<br />

stirring for about 2 mins, then turn off heat<br />

and allow to cool.<br />

6. Combine peach and strained passionfruit<br />

with cashews, vanilla and coconut cream in<br />

food processor until smooth (depending on<br />

size, you may have to blend in 2 batches).<br />

7. Pour onto cheesecake base, cover with<br />

clingwrap and place in freezer overnight.<br />

8. To serve, remove from freezer and allow<br />

to sit for 5–10 mins. Remove sides of springform<br />

pan and top with reserved passionfruit<br />

and coconut flakes. Slice into wedges.<br />

74 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Passionfruit | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 75


GROWING | Parsnip<br />

Parsnip<br />

Pastinaca sativa<br />

Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

Although a parsnip resembles a white carrot,<br />

it’s a little trickier to grow than a carrot or its<br />

other close relative, parsley. For success with<br />

homegrown parsnip, start with fresh seed. Seed that’s old<br />

or has not been well stored has a low germination rate.<br />

Parsnip’s botanic name (Pastinaca sativa) and<br />

the longevity of commonly grown varieties tell a<br />

lot about its cultivated history. The genus name<br />

simply translates as “food” (from pastus), while the<br />

species name sativa means “cultivated”. This name<br />

suggests it was a commonly grown staple, much like<br />

potato is now.<br />

This is backed up by the age of many of the<br />

varieties that are still grown. Most date from the 19th<br />

century or early 20th century. The variety commonly<br />

grown in backyards is ‘Hollow Crown’, which has<br />

been cultivated at least since the 1920s. It has a long<br />

cream root.<br />

Other old varieties available include ‘Guernsey’ and<br />

‘Large Jersey’, which originated in the Channel Isles.<br />

Parsnips don’t transplant<br />

well so are not usually<br />

available as seedlings.<br />

‘Early Short’ is another heritage variety, as is<br />

‘Tender and True’, which, according to the Seed<br />

Savers Network, was named after a popular song<br />

from the 19th century. ‘Melbourne Whiteskin’ is an<br />

old Australian selection that’s still available and is<br />

grown commercially.<br />

In a trial of 12 commercially available parsnip<br />

varieties conducted in Victoria, the variety ‘Javelin’<br />

produced the highest number of healthy roots.<br />

‘Hollow Crown’ and ‘Melbourne Whiteskin’ performed<br />

well when overall yield was assessed.<br />

Getting started<br />

Seed are sown from spring to summer for an autumn-towinter<br />

harvest. In the tropics, sow parsnip in late summer<br />

Shutterstock<br />

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Parsnip | GROWING<br />

to grow through the dry season. Allow around 18–20<br />

weeks from planting to harvest.<br />

Parsnips grow best in light, deep soils that allow<br />

the roots to penetrate easily. A mature parsnip can<br />

form a 30cm-long root, so prepare the soil to at least<br />

this depth before planting.<br />

As with carrots, avoid digging in fresh organic<br />

matter before sowing seed — there’s a link between<br />

excess organic matter in the soil and forking of the<br />

root. A good option is to plant parsnips in soil that<br />

was well fertilised for a previous crop, such as a leafy<br />

vegetable, to make use of the residual nutrients.<br />

Alternatively, thoroughly dig in organic fertiliser other<br />

than manure before planting.<br />

To give seeds the highest chance of germination,<br />

sow them directly into damp prepared soil, planting<br />

in rows. Parsnips don’t transplant well, so are not<br />

usually available as seedlings.<br />

Sow the seed in shallow rows around 6–10mm<br />

deep, then lightly cover the seed with fine soil or a<br />

layer of vermiculite. A fine layer of mulch over the<br />

soil surface can also help encourage germination by<br />

ensuring the soil stays damp. It can take 3–4 weeks<br />

for seeds to germinate, so patience is also required.<br />

Try to space the seeds 10cm apart to allow room<br />

for the plants to reach their mature size but, if<br />

necessary, thin seedlings when they reach 5cm high.<br />

Growing parsnips<br />

Although poor germination can make parsnips a<br />

challenge to grow, once they are growing they tend to be<br />

free of pest and disease problems but do need protection<br />

from snails and slugs.<br />

Keep the soil moist and free of weeds as the seeds<br />

germinate and grow. Once they are growing, apply<br />

a side dressing of organic fertiliser or liquidfeed<br />

the growing plants. Keep them well<br />

watered to avoid any stress that may<br />

send the parsnip plants into premature<br />

flower formation.<br />

Left unharvested, parsnips, which are<br />

biennial plants, produce flower stems<br />

in their second year, as does another of<br />

parsnip’s close relatives, parsley. Parsnip<br />

flowers are yellow, arranged in umbels<br />

and followed by broad, flat seeds that<br />

should be sown soon after they ripen. Parsnip<br />

has broad, flat leaves a little like those of parsley<br />

or coriander.<br />

Harvest, storage & preserving<br />

As well as looking good in a mix of roast vegies,<br />

parsnips are highly nutritious, supplying potassium<br />

along with vitamin C and dietary fibre. They are<br />

naturally sweet but the sweetest parsnips are grown<br />

Parsnip label<br />

Common name: Parsnip<br />

Botanical name: Pastinaca sativa<br />

Family: Apiaceae (carrot family)<br />

Aspect & soil: Sun; deep, well-drained soil<br />

Best climate: All<br />

Habit: Biennial grown as annual root vegetable<br />

Propagation: Seed<br />

Difficulty: Moderate<br />

in cooler climates. They benefit from a winter chill<br />

before harvest, which increases their sweetness by<br />

converting starches in the root to sugars.<br />

Parsnip roots can be left in the ground and<br />

harvested as needed during autumn and winter,<br />

although there’s a risk of the roots becoming woody<br />

with age, especially if the plants flower and seed.<br />

If the leaves die down, there’s also a risk that they’ll<br />

be overlooked, so mark plantings. In areas with<br />

wet winters or poorly drained soil, harvest parsnips<br />

in autumn.<br />

Pull the plants up carefully from the ground to<br />

avoid damaging the root. To get a good shelf life from<br />

parsnips, remove the leaves after harvesting, cutting<br />

them close to the top of the root (take care as the<br />

leaves can cause allergies in some people).<br />

Store in a cool, airy room or well wrapped in<br />

the crisper section of the fridge. They can also be<br />

preserved by bottling or freezing. Their high sugar<br />

content means they can also be used to make wine.<br />

And for those who don’t like parsnips, they<br />

are also grown as feed for animals<br />

such as pigs. In Italy they are prized<br />

as feed for pigs raised for<br />

Parma ham.<br />

Did you know?<br />

Centuries ago, parsnips<br />

were enjoyed as a<br />

sweetener in cooking.<br />

Parsnip leaves resemble parsley,<br />

a member of the same family<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 77


COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Parsnip<br />

Star ingredient: Parsnip<br />

Parma Ham & Pea Salad<br />

with Parsnip Chips<br />

Serves 2 as a lunch main, 4 as a side<br />

Ingredients<br />

• Coconut oil<br />

• 2 parsnips, peeled<br />

into strips with a<br />

Y-shaped peeler<br />

• 100g rocket<br />

• 50g semi-dried<br />

tomatoes<br />

• 500g fresh or<br />

frozen peas<br />

• 6 slices aged<br />

Parma ham<br />

• 100g soft Persian<br />

goat’s cheese<br />

• Handful pistachios,<br />

to garnish<br />

Method<br />

<strong>1.</strong> In a shallow frypan, add coconut oil to<br />

measure 6cm. Use a thermometer to heat<br />

oil to 350°C or, if using a deep fryer, fill with<br />

coconut oil to required level and heat to 350°C.<br />

2. Add parsnip strips and fry, turning<br />

occasionally until golden brown and crisp,<br />

about 2 mins. Using a spider or slotted spoon,<br />

transfer parsnip chips to paper towel and<br />

drain. Set aside.<br />

3. Combine rocket, semi-dried tomatoes and<br />

peas with a little oil from the tomatoes.<br />

4. Transfer to serving platter and arrange<br />

Parma ham on top. Arrange goat’s cheese and<br />

pistachios in and around ham and garnish<br />

with parsnip chips.<br />

78 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Parsnip | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 79


GROWING | Beetroot<br />

Beetroot<br />

Beta vulgaris<br />

A golden beetroot and a target spot variety<br />

Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

Beetroot is related to sugar beet and the amazing<br />

mangel-wurzel, which are also grown for their<br />

swollen roots, as well as to the more commonly<br />

grown leafy vegetables silverbeet and Swiss chard.<br />

All are in the plant family Chenopodiaceae, which<br />

also accounts for some weeds, including goosefoot<br />

(Chenopodium album).<br />

Although beetroot is usually thought of as a root<br />

vegetable, you can harvest the tender young leaves to<br />

add to a salad. Their red stalks and veins add colour to<br />

any green salad.<br />

Many varieties<br />

Beetroot is best known for its round red root, but<br />

these vegies come in many shapes and colours and<br />

today there are lots of named varieties to buy and<br />

grow. They can be large and round, such as the<br />

widely grown ‘Derwent Globe’, small and round (baby<br />

beet) or tapered more like a carrot (‘Cylindra’). In<br />

the colour range there are white (‘Albino’), red and<br />

white (‘Chioggia’), dark red (‘Bulls Blood’) and golden<br />

(‘Burpees Golden’ and ‘Golden Derwent’).<br />

Growing beetroot<br />

Beetroot can be grown just about all year round in most<br />

climates but is best planted in late summer for harvest<br />

in autumn or planted in winter or spring for a spring-tosummer<br />

harvest. If the growing conditions are not right,<br />

the plant can flower and seed before it produces a goodsized<br />

root. This is known as “bolting”.<br />

Producing good beetroot means starting with a<br />

well-prepared soil. Before planting beetroot seed or<br />

seedlings in the vegie patch, it’s vital to prepare the soil<br />

by digging it over thoroughly. Remove rocks and clods<br />

(hard lumps of dirt) so the roots can easily penetrate<br />

the soil. Shallow soil will cause the roots to poke out<br />

above ground and will lead to smaller roots and a<br />

smaller harvest. Even in good soil it’s normal to see the<br />

top of the beetroot above the ground.<br />

For best growth in shallow soils or containers, select<br />

baby beets. These small but tasty forms of beetroot grow<br />

readily in troughs in a sunny spot.<br />

Get sowing<br />

A curious thing about beetroot is its seed. Beetroot grows<br />

from a corky seed cluster, which contains one to four<br />

Shutterstock<br />

80 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Beetroot | GROWING<br />

seeds. Because of this oddity, it’s necessary to thin out<br />

seedlings when they’re large enough to handle. Select the<br />

strongest seedlings and either transplant the “thinnings”<br />

(the plants you remove) or eat them in a leafy salad.<br />

With the soil prepared, sow the corky seed in shallow<br />

rows about 1–2cm deep, pressing the seed firmly into<br />

the soil and covering it. Alternatively, look for seed tapes<br />

where a biodegradable tape has been impregnated with<br />

beetroot seed to ensure good spacing. Keep the soil<br />

moist while you wait for the seedlings to appear.<br />

Beetroot can also be sown into a seedling punnet or<br />

seed tray, allowed to grow until the seedlings are around<br />

3–5cm high and then planted into the garden.<br />

Beetroot label<br />

Common name: Beetroot<br />

Botanical name: Beta vulgaris<br />

Family: Chenopodiaceae (spinach family)<br />

Aspect & soil: Sun, well-drained soil free of lumps<br />

Best climate: All<br />

Habit: Annual<br />

Propagation: Seed, seedling<br />

Difficulty: Moderate<br />

Seeds take 10–14 days to germinate. Speed up<br />

germination before direct sowing by soaking the seed in<br />

warm water for an hour or two. This allows moisture to<br />

penetrate the seed and triggers germination.<br />

There’s another secret to beetroot growing: boron. It<br />

can be added to the soil as borax. Dissolve a teaspoon<br />

of borax powder in a watering can and water over the<br />

seeds at sowing. Boron is a micronutrient that beetroot<br />

needs to form good roots. Hollow roots can indicate a<br />

boron deficiency.<br />

If planting seedlings, soak the punnet well and gently<br />

separate the seedlings. They can then be planted out<br />

about 15–20cm apart. This allows each plant room to<br />

grow a good-sized root.<br />

As the plants develop, encourage good growth with<br />

regular feeds of a liquid fertiliser that’s high in potassium<br />

and phosphorus.<br />

Boron is a micronutrient that<br />

beetroot needs to form good<br />

roots. Hollow roots can indicate<br />

a boron deficiency.<br />

Beetroot tends to grow with the top<br />

of the roots protruding from the soil<br />

Harvest, storage and preserving<br />

Beetroot generally takes 10–12 weeks from planting out<br />

seedlings to harvesting. By this time they’ll be around<br />

6–10cm across. Baby beets can be harvested much<br />

sooner — from around 6–7 weeks.<br />

Don’t rush to harvest all your beetroot at once. Beets<br />

can be left in the ground for several weeks beyond<br />

maturity, especially in cooler climates or in the cooler<br />

parts of the year in warm climates, but don’t leave them<br />

for too many weeks as they can become woody and are<br />

then best fed to the chooks.<br />

When pulling beetroot from the soil, pull plants gently<br />

to get the entire plant. Clean the roots to remove dirt or<br />

grit. Store beetroot with its leaves attached. It keeps for<br />

several weeks in the crisper section of the fridge.<br />

Serve beetroot raw as sticks or grated, or steam, boil or<br />

roast it. After cooking, remove the skin and eat as a hot<br />

vegetable, turn into a soup or preserve it. It can be sliced<br />

and stored in spiced vinegar. Beetroot juice has been<br />

found in studies to lower high blood pressure.<br />

Young beetroot leaves are a tasty<br />

and colourful addition to salads<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 81


COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Beetroot<br />

Star ingredient: Beetroot<br />

Beetroot & Chocolate Cake<br />

Ingredients<br />

• 300g 70% organic<br />

cocoa chocolate<br />

• 250g raw beetroot,<br />

grated<br />

• 4 organic eggs,<br />

separated, placing<br />

whites in clean,<br />

dry bowl<br />

• 150g coconut sugar<br />

• 70g almond meal<br />

• 70g hazelnut meal<br />

• 1 tbsp baking<br />

powder<br />

• 1 tbsp cocoa powder<br />

• Crème fraîche or<br />

cream, to serve<br />

Method<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Preheat oven 180°C.<br />

2. Line base of 20cm cake tin with baking paper and<br />

grease sides with a little butter. Dust sides with a glutenfree<br />

flour, like coconut flour, shaking out excess.<br />

3. Melt 200g of chocolate in a bowl over a simmering<br />

pan of water (make sure base of bowl isn’t touching<br />

water). Once melted, remove from heat and set aside.<br />

4. Combine grated beetroot and egg yolks, then add<br />

coconut sugar, almond meal, hazelnut meal, baking<br />

powder, cocoa powder and melted chocolate, and<br />

mix well.<br />

5. Whisk egg whites to stiff peaks.<br />

6. Fold one-quarter of egg whites into beetroot mix,<br />

combine gently, lightening mix, then add remaining egg<br />

white, being careful not to over-mix.<br />

7. Transfer to baking tin and bake for 50 mins. Check<br />

the cake is cooked through by inserting a skewer or tip<br />

of a knife, which should come out clean. Leave to cool.<br />

8. To serve, melt remaining chocolate as before and<br />

drizzle a little over cake. Serve with crème fraîche or<br />

cream on the side.<br />

82 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Beetroot | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 83


GROWING | Sweet corn<br />

Sweet corn<br />

Zeya mays<br />

Words Jennifer Stackhouse<br />

Sweet corn is a big, bold vegetable that’s sure to<br />

be popular with all the family. If you’re planning to<br />

grow a crop of sweet corn, allow plenty of room.<br />

Not only does it grow tall, it’s also best grown in a block at<br />

least a metre square. This is because sweet corn is wind<br />

pollinated — planting it in a block maximises pollination<br />

and produces well-filled cobs.<br />

Sweet corn has its own language to describe the<br />

flowers, fruit and the plant itself. The male flowers are<br />

called tassels. The female flowers are known as silks,<br />

which is also the name for the silky wispy filaments at the<br />

top of each cob. The fruit is referred to as a cob and the<br />

kernels on the cob as an ear. The cob has a husk, which is<br />

the outer green “wrapping” that covers the juicy kernels,<br />

which are the edible seeds. Shucking is the name given to<br />

removing the outer husk. The stem of the corn is known<br />

as the culm, as it’s a type of large grass.<br />

Varieties<br />

There are many sweet corn varieties available. Modern F1<br />

hybrid varieties tend to be high yielding and very sweet.<br />

They also keep longer than older varieties as they are<br />

slower at converting sugar to starch. They may produce<br />

yellow or bicolour kernels (a mix of white and yellow<br />

kernels on each cob). Sweet-corn breeding has been<br />

working towards producing sweeter and sweeter corn,<br />

known as supersweet corn. Varieties with white and<br />

yellow kernels are the top choice to grow for extrasweet<br />

corn.<br />

Older varieties usually produce just two cobs per plant<br />

with yellow kernels but are more forgiving of fluctuations<br />

in the season. A reliable variety to try is ‘Golden Bantam’,<br />

which dates from the early 20th century.<br />

There are also old corn varieties with blue kernels<br />

(‘Hopi Blue’) and varieties with multi-coloured kernels<br />

that may include yellow, white and purple.<br />

As well as traditional sweet corn, there are other forms<br />

of corn grown for different uses. Popcorn, as the name<br />

suggests, is grown to make popcorn and is harvested<br />

when it is hard. Baby corn is harvested while the cobs<br />

are small and soft. Popcorn produces the best baby corn.<br />

Maize is grown as stock food. It lacks the sweetness of<br />

sweet corn.<br />

Getting started<br />

Sweet corn seed is large and easy to handle. It’s best<br />

direct-sown where it is to grow. It likes a warm growing<br />

period, so seed is sown during spring and summer with<br />

harvests from summer plantings extending into autumn.<br />

Before sowing, dig in organic fertiliser — but don’t<br />

allow seed to come into direct contact with fertiliser.<br />

Shutterstock<br />

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Sweet corn | GROWING<br />

Just before sowing, water the soil well so the seed is<br />

sown into damp but not overly wet soil.<br />

To sow seeds, make a furrow in the soil about 25mm<br />

deep. The back of a rake is an ideal tool for this. Make<br />

furrows around 50cm apart. When planting, space the<br />

seeds around 15–20cm apart and then thin plants so they<br />

are 20–30cm apart.<br />

Expect seedlings to emerge in 6–10 days from sowing.<br />

Sweet corn has its own<br />

language to describe the<br />

flowers, fruit and the<br />

plant itself.<br />

Growing needs<br />

The key to a good crop of sweet corn is to provide the<br />

growing plants with plenty of fertiliser and regular, deep<br />

watering. Apply additional fertiliser as the seedlings grow<br />

and when the tassels (male flowers) appear as the plant<br />

reaches maturity and begins to flower. The tassels are<br />

produced at the top of the plant, while the edible cobs<br />

form lower down where the female flowers form.<br />

Weeds compete with the growing plants for both water<br />

and nutrients, so keeping the rows and space between<br />

plants free of weeds is important for good growth. Hoeing<br />

gently between the plants is the easiest way to keep the<br />

patch weed free.<br />

Companion planting<br />

As this is a tall crop that takes many months to reach<br />

harvest, where space is at a premium, the area around<br />

these plants can be used to grow other crops.<br />

Before the plants become tall, it’s possible<br />

to grow a quick crop of lettuce between<br />

rows or around a block of corn.<br />

The stems can also be used to<br />

support other plants, including<br />

Did you know?<br />

Each cob of corn produces<br />

an even number of rows<br />

of kernels.<br />

Sweet corn label<br />

Common name: Sweet corn<br />

Botanical name: Zeya mays<br />

Family: Poaceae (grass family)<br />

Aspect & soil: Sun, well-drained soil<br />

Best climate: All<br />

Habit: Annual<br />

Propagation: Seed, seedling<br />

Difficulty: Easy<br />

climbing beans. A block of corn can also be grown<br />

to provide shade and shelter to other crops, such as<br />

leafy greens.<br />

If extra crops are planted in and around sweet corn,<br />

provide extra water and nutrients to keep the sweet corn<br />

growing strongly.<br />

Troubleshooting<br />

The main disappointment with homegrown sweet<br />

corn is harvesting cobs that have few kernels. Planting<br />

corn in blocks helps to ensure good pollination. Once<br />

the cobs begin to form, corn earworm or budworm<br />

caterpillars may burrow down from the top of the cob<br />

into the kernels.<br />

For organic control, check plants regularly for signs<br />

of caterpillars or frass and webbing at the top of the<br />

cob. Remove caterpillars or affected cobs. You can try<br />

Dipel, but this is ineffective if caterpillars have already<br />

entered cobs.<br />

Harvesting & storing<br />

Sweet corn takes around 10–12 weeks to grow<br />

and produce cobs. Watch the crop carefully to<br />

pick cobs at their peak ripeness when they<br />

are sweet and juicy. Overripe cobs quickly<br />

become tough as sugars in the kernel are<br />

converted to starch.<br />

Telltale signs that the cobs are ready<br />

to harvest include the silks turning from<br />

greeny-yellow to brown and cobs standing<br />

out at an angle from the side of the plant.<br />

To further test for ripeness, peel back<br />

the outer husk and press a thumbnail into<br />

a kernel. If it’s at its peak, it will exude a creamy<br />

juice known as “milk”.<br />

Sweet corn is best eaten as soon as it’s harvested. Cobs<br />

store for a few days if they are well wrapped and kept<br />

in the crisper section of the fridge. Excess can be<br />

blanched and frozen or used to make pickles and<br />

relish (see Jo Rushton’s recipe for corn relish on<br />

page 88).<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 85


COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | Sweet corn<br />

Star ingredient: Sweet corn<br />

Corn & Chive Fritters<br />

with Avocado Salsa<br />

Makes 8 fritters<br />

Ingredients<br />

• 500g raw sweet<br />

corn kernels, about<br />

3 ears of corn<br />

• 4 organic eggs<br />

• Pinch sea salt &<br />

freshly ground<br />

pepper<br />

• 1 bunch chives,<br />

chopped<br />

• 1 red capsicum,<br />

finely chopped<br />

• ½ leek, finely sliced<br />

• 1 heaped tbsp<br />

coconut flour<br />

• 1 heaped tbsp<br />

almond meal<br />

• Ghee or coconut<br />

oil, for frying<br />

Method<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Combine half the corn kernels with eggs,<br />

salt and pepper in food processor or highperformance<br />

blender. Process for 1 min or until<br />

corn has broken up and forms a batter with<br />

eggs. Transfer to bowl.<br />

2. Fold in remaining corn kernels, chives,<br />

capsicum, leek, coconut flour and almond meal<br />

to form a batter.<br />

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of ghee or coconut oil in<br />

a frying pan over a gentle heat.<br />

4. Drop 2 tablespoons of mixture per fritter<br />

into pan and cook in small batches for 4 mins<br />

each side or until firm and golden.<br />

5. Serve with avocado salsa and green leaves.<br />

Avocado salsa<br />

Roots of bunch of coriander<br />

1 green chilli, chopped (seeds in if<br />

you like it hot)<br />

1 large clove garlic, minced<br />

Juice 1 lime<br />

2 avocados, mashed<br />

½ Spanish onion, diced<br />

2 tomatoes, chopped<br />

Celtic sea salt & pepper, to taste<br />

Handful chopped coriander leaves<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Using a mortar and pestle, pound<br />

coriander roots with chilli, garlic and<br />

lime juice until a fine paste.<br />

2. Mix paste through mashed avocado,<br />

then add onion, tomato, salt and<br />

pepper, and coriander leaves. Mix<br />

well. Can be stored in a sealed glass<br />

container in the fridge for up to 3 days.<br />

86 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


Sweet corn | COOKING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 87


PRESERVING WITH JOANNA RUSHTON | SWEET CORN<br />

Star ingredient: Sweet corn<br />

Fermented Sweet Corn<br />

& Chilli Relish<br />

Recipe adapted from Sally Fallon’s Nourishing Traditions<br />

Ingredients<br />

• 3 cups corn kernels<br />

• 1 small onion, chopped<br />

• ½ capsicum, seeded & chopped<br />

• 1 celery stick, chopped<br />

• 2 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped<br />

• ½ tsp chilli flakes<br />

• 2 tbsp Celtic sea salt<br />

Method<br />

<strong>1.</strong> In a large bowl, mix together all ingredients.<br />

Pound gently with wooden pounder or meat<br />

hammer to release juices.<br />

2. Place in 1L wide-mouthed jar and press<br />

down until juices cover relish. Top of vegetable<br />

mix should be at least 3cm below top of jar.<br />

3. Cover tightly and leave at room<br />

temperature for 3 days, then transfer to fridge.<br />

Relish will last up to a month.<br />

88 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


PICK OF THE CROP<br />

pick of the crop<br />

Our selection of products and services for gardeners and cooks<br />

News from the Organigrow farm<br />

Great progress has been made at the Organigrow farm. We have completed the new<br />

brooder shed, which is rat-proof and insulated with 200mm of rock wool insulation.<br />

It’s now working well, though I still have to put in the final touches of hanging the<br />

temperature sensors and completing the automation of vents fans etc. It has cut the<br />

gas bill by hundreds of dollars per batch, and thus our CO2 emissions, and protected<br />

the chicks from the antechinus, which decimated the last batch we raised in the<br />

old brooder. We converted the old brooders into a grower run with new fencing and<br />

overhead netting; there’s now almost 5000 square metres of protected area for the<br />

growing chicks to run around in. They are having a great time with all the space and<br />

fresh pasture to eat. We’re working on the final touches: a feedline to automate the<br />

feeding and roof sprinklers to keep them cool over the hot months.<br />

organigrow.com.au<br />

Number 1<br />

cold-press juicer<br />

The Kuvings Whole Slow Juicer is both<br />

Choice Recommended and the <strong>Good</strong><br />

<strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> Award Winner for<br />

the number 1 cold-press juicer. It’s the<br />

first cold-press juicer that juices whole<br />

fruit and vegetables. Stylish, quiet and<br />

easy to clean, it yields more nutrients<br />

and enzymes for a healthy juice. Made<br />

in Korea with 20 years warranty on the<br />

motor and five years on the parts. For<br />

more information visit kuvings.net.au or<br />

call 02 9798 0586.<br />

Pest-free the organic way<br />

Keep your vegetables and garden plants pest-free and looking good the<br />

natural way without using harsh chemicals. Searles Ecofend® Vegetable<br />

& Garden is an organic soap-based spray that makes it easy to control<br />

infestations of insects and mites like thrips, mealybug, whitefly and those<br />

nasty plant-deforming insects, aphids. Spray Searles Ecofend® Vegetable<br />

& Garden at the first sight of insects on your vegetables, fruit trees,<br />

pot plants, roses and ornamentals. This spray contains an organic<br />

ingredient that is safe to use on edible plants. Available in 250mL,<br />

500mL and 1L easy-to-measure concentrated bottles and a readyto-use<br />

trigger spray. Call 07 5422 3000 or visit searles.com.au for<br />

more information on this product and other organic pest-control<br />

sprays, especially for fruit trees and shrubs. searles.com.au<br />

Eco-elegance<br />

in a candle<br />

This elegant glass tumbler is sure to add<br />

sophistication to any setting, along with a<br />

romantic glow. Hand-crafted from a topquality<br />

thick-walled glass tumbler with a<br />

resealable bamboo lid, its wick crackles<br />

like fire, adding a lovely ambience to your<br />

space. Available in Drishti’s five custom<br />

aromas, all 100 per cent essential oils<br />

with therapeutic benefits, it will fill your<br />

home with beautiful aromas and glowing<br />

light. Drishti candles are made from<br />

100 per cent natural ingredients and<br />

aromatherapy essential oils, along with<br />

cotton or wooden wicks (FSC certified).<br />

Each candle has a unique feather pattern<br />

and is hand-blended. With a Drishti candle<br />

you feel you have stepped into nature and<br />

are surrounded by its beauty. The glass<br />

tumbler has the largest scent throw of all<br />

Drishti candles, so is ideal for a spacious<br />

area. These candles really offer you a<br />

piece of eco-elegance. 100% Natural.<br />

100% Beautiful. 100% Lighting the Way.<br />

drishti.com.au<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 89


Wild Olive<br />

Chardonnay<br />

— perfect for<br />

summer<br />

Wild Olive <strong>Organic</strong> McLaren<br />

Vale Chardonnay is the latest<br />

addition to the fantastic range<br />

of organic wines from fifth<br />

generation family-owned,<br />

Angove Family Winemakers.<br />

Grapes are sourced from fully<br />

certified vineyards in McLaren<br />

Vale. The region’s idyllic<br />

Mediterranean climate and<br />

proximity to the ocean allows<br />

them to ripen slowly to the<br />

peak of flavour ripeness while<br />

retaining natural acidity. They<br />

have been gently crafted with<br />

minimal intervention into this<br />

delightfully fresh wine that is<br />

bursting with the ubiquitous<br />

peach, melon and nectarine<br />

flavours of modern Australian<br />

Chardonnay with just a hint<br />

of oak. angove.com.au<br />

Is keeping chooks<br />

just too hard?<br />

You’ve probably read about the increasing number of people<br />

keeping chooks, which may have got you thinking, maybe I should<br />

get chooks. There is, of course, also that nagging voice telling you<br />

that you already have enough to do. Honestly, though, chickens<br />

are a lot easier to look after than a dog — no walking for a start.<br />

By keeping just two chooks you could get up to 12 delicious eggs<br />

a week. Fresh is definitely better when it comes to eggs, plus you<br />

know exactly what has gone into them. The usual objections to<br />

keeping chooks are cleaning the coop, smells and rodents. There<br />

are lots of different chicken coops on the market, but we love the<br />

Omlet Eglu Go UP because it addresses all three. It’s plastic, so<br />

it’s easy to clean — just turn the hose on it. That means you don’t<br />

get horrible smells, plus it’s easy to remove the droppings tray<br />

and empty it straight into the compost. Rodents are attracted by<br />

food and chickens can be messy eaters. However, the Eglu Go<br />

UP comes with a specially designed feeder that prevents them<br />

throwing food around. Omlet.com.au<br />

The best hanging baskets in<br />

the world<br />

Seeing is believing, and the range of hanging baskets from Bloom<br />

Master Australia has everything you ever wanted in a hanging<br />

basket and more. It’s just so simple: plant the side holes and the<br />

top with your choice of seedlings and before you know it the<br />

basket is covered in a cascade of colour, giving you months of<br />

blooming pleasure. Your options are endless: herbs, strawberries,<br />

flowers — all are showcased brilliantly with these baskets and<br />

planter boxes. The unique design means the potting mix won’t<br />

wash out of the holes when watered. Due to the volume and<br />

depth of the containers, they stay moist longer and the foliage<br />

becomes insulating while still allowing aeration through the side<br />

holes. The product range is made of high-quality poly-propylene<br />

and is UV-treated. Available in various sizes and comes complete<br />

with wire hanger. bloommaster.com.au<br />

Automatic irrigation<br />

for small spaces<br />

Irrigatia makes automatic solar irrigation systems that respond to the<br />

weather to decide for themselves how much water your plants need.<br />

The system is solar-powered and waters by slow drip every three hours<br />

from any-sized, clean, still water source. And it works whether you are<br />

home or on holiday! The system is great for pots (up to 48), garden beds,<br />

vegetables, courtyards and balcony gardens and in your greenhouse. And<br />

because it can raise water as high as 4.5m, it’s wonderful for living walls and<br />

hanging baskets (and who has the time to water them three or four times a<br />

day?!) The water source for the system could be an existing water tank or<br />

a bin full of clean water — drill a small hole in the lid for the inlet tube and<br />

to keep the mozzies out. The Irrigatia kit comes complete with a 12-dripper<br />

irrigation kit. This can be extended with further Irrigatia drippers or with a<br />

seephose kit. irrigatia.com.au<br />

90 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


PICK OF THE CROP<br />

For households<br />

and businesses<br />

If you and your family could choose one of the following for<br />

your home what would it be?<br />

Non-toxic Australian products for cleaning your home<br />

environment<br />

Non-toxic cleaning that can reduced your expenditure on<br />

cleaners by half<br />

Non-toxic products that don’t harm you or your local<br />

environment<br />

Green Aussie Cleaner® has for 23 years delivered to<br />

families all of the above. It will give you the ultimate cleaning<br />

experience for you and your family. It is one single non-toxic<br />

product for your home cleaning, including<br />

clothes washing. The formula is designed<br />

for you the user to get extraordinary value<br />

for money by adding extra water for your<br />

job applications. Green Aussie Cleaner® is<br />

manufactured using totally environmentally<br />

safe ingredients with essential oils. Our fragile<br />

environment, which has been under attack<br />

over many generations, can benefit greatly<br />

from products like Green Aussie Cleaner®.<br />

Do yourself a favour and check out our<br />

testimonials at greenaussiefoundation.org<br />

Fruit Salad Tree<br />

The Fruit Salad Tree, developed in 1990 by the West<br />

family, bears up to six different fruits of the same family<br />

on the one plant. All fruits retain their individuality, with<br />

staggered ripening times. There are four tree types: stone<br />

fruit, citrus, multi apples and multi nashis. The trees can be<br />

grown in the ground, espaliered or grown in pots. Instead of<br />

having numerous different trees with more fruit than your<br />

household can consume there’s just one tree with the fruits<br />

ripening naturally over a period of months. Trees are grown<br />

so the fruiting branches begin about 10cm above soil level,<br />

keeping them compact, which allows easy harvesting. There<br />

are trees to suit most climatic conditions and planting<br />

can take place at any time of the year. Whatever variety is<br />

required for cross-pollination has been grafted onto the<br />

tree. You simply list the fruits you would like to have, in<br />

the order of importance and, working down your list, the<br />

company chooses the best trees to suit your requirements.<br />

Trees are dispatched all year round (while in stock)<br />

and are permitted entry into all states of Australia. Visit<br />

FruitSaladTrees.com to complete a mail-order form.<br />

Sprinklers for large<br />

and small areas<br />

Wobble-Tee now has a sprinkler for both large and small areas. The<br />

award-winning Wobble-Tee Sprinkler covers large areas up to a 15m<br />

diameter with low to medium pressure requirements and will water<br />

your lawn efficiently just like slow soaking rain. The consistent large<br />

droplets minimise wind drift and evaporation loss. The removable filter<br />

allows use with river and dam water. The Wobble-Tee also has the<br />

ability to operate more than one sprinkler from the same tap so you<br />

can water even larger areas. On the other hand, if you have a small<br />

courtyard, the Clever Drop Sprinkler is for you, watering up to an 8m<br />

diameter. This new sprinkler has many clever features. A low angle of<br />

trajectory reduces wind drift and contains a small area. The purposebuilt<br />

base can be adjusted for uneven surfaces or used on your<br />

corrugated iron roof for cooling of work sheds and bird aviaries. Run up<br />

to eight sprinklers in a row to cover the long, narrow areas in your yard.<br />

Operates with 5–50psi and pressure-regulating discs supplied allow use<br />

with high pressure to water a small area. wobble-tee.com.au<br />

Water<br />

only when<br />

needed with<br />

the Toro<br />

Precision<br />

Soil Sensor<br />

The Toro Precision Soil<br />

Sensor reduces water waste<br />

by measuring moisture<br />

levels in your soil and<br />

determining when to<br />

allow your controller to<br />

water. “We’ve taken the<br />

same technology found at<br />

professional golf courses<br />

and sports fields and<br />

created a sensor intended<br />

for residential use,” says<br />

Ben Hall of Toro Australia.<br />

The Precision Soil Sensor<br />

is a two-part system that includes a battery-powered sensor and a receiver<br />

connected to your irrigation controller. Communication between the sensor<br />

and receiver is wireless, with up to 152m line-of-sight range. It’s very easy to<br />

install and no digging is required. First, connect the receiver to the controller,<br />

then find a representative area of your property for the sensor. Push the<br />

sensor probe in the ground and it will automatically calibrate itself to your soil<br />

type and begin communicating wirelessly with the receiver. toro.com.au<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 91


PICK OF THE CROP<br />

Yates Nature’s Way —<br />

control insect pests<br />

organically<br />

Yates has three fantastic new products in its organically<br />

certified Nature’s Way range:<br />

Vegie & Herb Spray, based on insecticidal soap, targets<br />

sucking insects like aphids, thrips and whitefly.<br />

Caterpillar Killer, containing the beneficial bacteria<br />

Bacillus thuringiensis controls most common caterpillars,<br />

like cabbage white butterfly, looper and budworm.<br />

Citrus & Ornamental Spray, containing the special<br />

combination of natural pyrethrin and vegetable oil,<br />

controls both chewing and sucking insect pests on citrus,<br />

ornamental plants and vegies.<br />

For more information on organic gardening, head to<br />

yates.com.au. Yates also has a fantastic Garden Club and<br />

members receive a monthly gardening email that gives<br />

handy information about what to do in the garden that<br />

month. It’s free to join and as a special offer to <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong><br />

<strong>Gardening</strong> magazine readers, sign up using the promotional<br />

code GOG15 and receive a packet of Yates organic seed.<br />

<strong>Organic</strong><br />

rubbish bags<br />

Help reduce the amount of toxic plastic<br />

bags that continue to accumulate in our<br />

environment every year by using these<br />

revolutionary organic rubbish bags from<br />

Maze. Constructed from a starch-based<br />

polymer, the organic rubbish bags begin to<br />

decompose within weeks of being added<br />

to your local rubbish tip. All you need to<br />

do is simply add your indoor and outdoor<br />

refuse into one of the 27L capacity bags,<br />

dispose of it into your outdoor bin and rest<br />

assured that you have actively contributed<br />

to the health of your local environment.<br />

With strong and durable easy-tie handles,<br />

these 27L organic rubbish bags fit most<br />

small/medium-sized bins and are easily<br />

used in the home, office or garden.<br />

mazeproducts.com.au<br />

Amazing Coconut<br />

Did you know that coconut fibre has a<br />

natural anti-bacterial? This quality makes<br />

it a perfect natural fibre for the kitchen<br />

that is eco-friendly, biodegradable<br />

and a healthier and more sustainable<br />

choice. The Eco Max Kitchen Scrubber<br />

uses the husk of the coconut to make<br />

a strong, long-lasting kitchen scrubber.<br />

The fibres are wound onto galvanised<br />

wire, so it won’t rust and can even go<br />

into the dishwasher. Unlike with nylon<br />

scourers, oil and fat does not congeal on<br />

the coconut fibre and it won’t scratch<br />

enamelware or take the patina from cast<br />

iron. The bristles make it ideal for hardto-clean<br />

areas such as garlic crushers,<br />

strainers and graters and it easily cleans<br />

blenders, juicers and mixers. You can<br />

even use the Eco Max Kitchen Scrubber<br />

outside on the barbecue, animal troughs,<br />

pet bowl or in the chook shed to clean<br />

your eggs. With a RRP of $3 you’ll find<br />

many uses for the Eco Max Kitchen<br />

Scrubber. For a stockist near you,<br />

importants.com.au<br />

<strong>Organic</strong> home-style cookies<br />

<strong>Organic</strong> Times’ certified organic home-style cookies are made<br />

with only the best-quality ingredients, including organic 100 per<br />

cent grass-fed butter; Fairtrade organic premium couverture<br />

chocolate; fresh organic whole eggs; organic pure vanilla<br />

extract; and Australian organic almonds and macadamia nuts.<br />

The range includes Choc Chip, Triple Choc, White Chocolate<br />

Macadamia and Choc Almond. Baked with love in our boutique<br />

family bakery, our cookies contain no GMOs, no palm oil and<br />

nothing artificial. Offering a better choice for you and our<br />

planet, without compromising on all the deliciousness you<br />

expect in your favourite cookies. Gluten-free also available.<br />

Available at Target, organic and healthfood stores, independent<br />

supermarkets and gourmet retailers. organictimes.com.au<br />

92 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


PICK OF THE CROP<br />

Save water and get better<br />

growth with the world’s<br />

best-tasting water!<br />

The key to better plant growth and water savings is<br />

all about fast and efficient hydration. The PhPerfect<br />

Energised Water Systems Home Edge, Commercial<br />

Edge & Travel Edge all energise and re-animate stale,<br />

lifeless water typically found in Australian urban and<br />

rural areas by creating smaller water molecule clusters,<br />

which penetrate the blood and plant cells more easily<br />

and efficiently. This provides faster and more effective<br />

hydration, meaning less water is needed to effect the<br />

same result. And for gardeners, that can add up to<br />

substantial water savings and faster plant growth! Give<br />

the hydration experts at Healthy Water Technologies<br />

Australia a call today and find out how you can enjoy<br />

the world’s best-tasting water at home, in the garden<br />

or wherever you travel. And remember, PhPerfect<br />

Energised Water not only tastes better, it’s better for<br />

you and your garden! hwta.com.au<br />

Grow delicious vegies you’ll love<br />

to share<br />

There’s nothing more rewarding than growing your own organic vegies!<br />

And when they’re picked perfectly ripe from your own garden, they taste<br />

absolutely delicious and are packed with healthy nutrients, too. Pure <strong>Organic</strong><br />

products are just as Mother Nature intended. They are organic and have<br />

no added synthetic chemicals. Setting up the perfect organic growing<br />

environment at home can be a hassle, but with Scotts Pure <strong>Organic</strong> soils and<br />

plant foods, it couldn’t be easier. Simply open the pack and add it to pots,<br />

planters or garden beds. Pure <strong>Organic</strong> has been developed in collaboration<br />

with expert horticulturists to ensure your homegrown produce has everything<br />

it needs, right from the bag. The mixture contains organic slow-release<br />

fertiliser to feed your plants for three months so your crop will receive the<br />

right amount of nutrients and help your herbs, vegies and tomatoes flourish!<br />

New Scotts Pure <strong>Organic</strong> works! For expert gardening advice call<br />

1800 804 219 (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm) or visit scottspureorganic.com.au<br />

Cover to cover<br />

The Australian Native<br />

Garden: A Practical Guide<br />

By Angus Stewart & AB<br />

Bishop, Murdoch Books,<br />

$49.99<br />

“It’s not too much of a stretch,”<br />

writes Angus Stewart, “to say<br />

that planting an indigenous<br />

garden can help save the<br />

planet.” The ABC’s <strong>Gardening</strong><br />

Australia guru makes the<br />

point that designing a native<br />

garden — droughtproof,<br />

fire-resistant and attractive<br />

to native fauna — is a small<br />

step towards “climate and pollution control as well as ecological<br />

diversity”. This book, lavishly illustrated with beautiful colour photos,<br />

many by Stewart and researcher AB Bishop, is a step-by-step guide<br />

to achieving that, from the fundamentals of soils and growing<br />

techniques to fertilising and maintenance. The authors look at both<br />

wild habitats and some of our best-designed native gardens as<br />

well as native Australian plantations as far away as California and<br />

Europe. Comprehensive and engagingly written, this is all you need<br />

to know to start saving the planet — one callistemon at a time.<br />

The Produce Companion<br />

By Meredith Kirton & Mandy<br />

Sinclair, Hardie Grant, $49.95<br />

Cookbooks are pretty much<br />

the cutting edge of book<br />

design these days and this<br />

stunningly produced volume<br />

is no exception. But behind its<br />

good looks is a 350-odd-page<br />

celebration of the seasonal<br />

delights of fresh produce, from<br />

garden to plate. “Neither of<br />

us can bear waste,” declare<br />

gardening expert Meredith<br />

Kirton and food writer Mandy<br />

Sinclair. “It seems so ungrateful not to make use of everything.”<br />

Accordingly, the authors divide their book into two parts. Garden<br />

is full of fine information about growing, harvesting and storing<br />

fruit, vegies and herbs, from apples and artichokes to thyme<br />

and zucchinis. Recipes presents more than 100 ways to save<br />

and use each season’s bounty, whether as jams or jellies, sauces<br />

or salsas, chutneys or pestos. A bonus is the handy guide to<br />

pickling and preserving. In short, this book is not just a pleasure<br />

to look at but a valuable resource as well.<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong> | 93


WHAT’S ON<br />

A tiny sample of events around the country in <strong>January</strong> & <strong>February</strong><br />

SA<br />

Joe’s Connected Garden<br />

Sat Feb 6 to Sun Feb 7<br />

6 Argent St, Elizabeth South<br />

With an amazing collection of temperate and subtropical trees<br />

and a large collection of vegetables, this garden is a cornucopia<br />

in suburbia. There are no clipped ornamental shrubs but instead<br />

well-pruned fruit trees: limes, lemons, figs, loquats and apples are<br />

just some of the trees in Joe’s Connected Garden. There are three<br />

different blocks and you can travel between the three amazing<br />

gardens to enjoy pruning demonstrations, stalls, edible and<br />

sustainable gardening talks, and plant sales. opengardensa.org.au<br />

TAS<br />

Chudleigh Show<br />

Sat Feb 20<br />

Chudleigh<br />

With the first show held in 1889, this is one of Tasmania’s oldest<br />

shows. It’s an annual event showcasing and promoting the local<br />

agricultural industries with a focus on creating a great family day<br />

and showing the best of what the local area has to offer. You can<br />

camp or park a caravan on the grassed areas in the showgrounds.<br />

The Chudleigh Agricultural and Horticultural Society is one of the<br />

oldest in Tasmania and Chudleigh itself is a charming little village<br />

located between Deloraine and Mole Creek. chudleighshow.com.au,<br />

facebook.com/Chudleigh-Agricultural-Horticultural-Society<br />

QLD<br />

<strong>2016</strong> Ginger Flower and Food Festival<br />

Fri Jan 22 to Sun Jan 24<br />

The Ginger Factory, 50 Pioneer Rd, Yandina<br />

The 20th Ginger Flower and Food Festival will have an exciting<br />

lineup of local kitchen masters and gardening experts over three<br />

days of fabulous flowers, delicious food and entertainment for all.<br />

There will be live cooking demonstrations and garden talks that<br />

explore the processes of planting, growing, harvesting and cooking<br />

with gingers. Visitors will be treated to a visual feast of vibrant<br />

colour with a 3m-high central floral display. Ornamental gingers<br />

and heliconias will be for sale throughout the festival, with plant<br />

varieties suited to all garden sizes. gingerfactory.com.au<br />

VIC<br />

Seymour Alternative Farming Expo <strong>2016</strong><br />

Fri Feb 19 to Sun Feb 21<br />

Kings Park, Seymour<br />

Showcasing the latest in alternative farming and rural lifestyles,<br />

the Seymour Alternative Farming Expo will have more than 500<br />

sites on show at Seymour’s picturesque Kings Park Reserve. There<br />

will be plenty to see and do for everyone, from country cooking<br />

to chainsaw carving, plus hundreds of animals, including cattle,<br />

sheep, goats, pigs, alpacas, camels and chooks, along with the<br />

latest in alternative power generation, musical entertainment,<br />

furniture, art, food and wine. seymour-expo.com<br />

WA<br />

Garden Clubs & Societies Plant Fair<br />

Sat Feb 27 to Sun Feb 28<br />

South Perth Community Centre, Sandgate St, South Perth<br />

The Western Australian Horticultural Council Inc represents<br />

amateur horticulture in WA and organises two plant fairs<br />

annually to allow members to promote their plants and activities<br />

to the public. For more information on the coming event,<br />

contact Helen, email hortwa@fuzenet.com.au or<br />

horticulturalcouncil.com.au<br />

NSW<br />

Milkwood Passata Day <strong>2016</strong><br />

Sat Jan 30, 3pm–7pm<br />

107 Rooftop Garden, 107 Redfern St, Redfern<br />

A day of tomato squishing, bottling, feasting and making merry,<br />

with a hands-on, rolling session of passata making, followed by<br />

cooking fresh pasta for lunch to go alongside a fresher-than-fresh<br />

passata sauce, summer herbs and other simple pleasures. Lunch<br />

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tunes, and virgin (or otherwise) Marys. Go home with<br />

bottles of freshly made organic passata, new friends, and new skills.<br />

The 107 Rooftop Garden is an inner-city food system of vertical<br />

gardens, intensive vegie beds, aquaponics, beehives, dappled shady<br />

nooks and lots of hands-on opportunities to learn. milkwood.net<br />

94 | <strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Gardening</strong>


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Directory<br />

The Greener Plant®<br />

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Directory<br />

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Directory<br />

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Directory<br />

It’s no surprise that Troforte® is fast<br />

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Directory<br />

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