6. Good Organic Gardening - November-December 2016 AvxHome.in

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TIME TO PLANT | Taro - in the - vegie patch Taro Colocasia esculenta Both ornamental in the garden and good to eat, taro is a great alternative to other starchy vegies Words Jennifer Stackhouse Gardeners who want to be self-sufficient and eat as much as possible from their vegie patch need to think long and hard about starchy crops — the vegetables that yield carbohydrates and that make up an important part of everyday eating. For most gardeners, potatoes are the easiest starch crops to grow. In many parts of the country, it’s possible to grow two crops each year. Potatoes are relatively easy to store and can be used in a wide variety of dishes. They’re not the only starchy vegetable to grow, though. Other options include sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes and yams. For those living in tropical and subtropical zones, there are even more options to investigate. One of these is taro, a traditional starch crop grown and eaten throughout Asia and the Pacific region. Its other common names include dasheen and cocoyam and it’s thought to be native to India but has now spread around the globe. Taro is much more than a starchy root vegetable. It’s a very handsome plant with large, green, heart-shaped leaves held on slender black stems. Plants grow to around 1–1.5m tall. There are ornamental forms of taro often called elephant’s ears. Some of the ornamental forms have handsome black leav es. While these plants are a good-looking addition to a garden, most don’t produce edible tubers. Did you know? Water drops roll off taro leaves and have led to a saying in Mauritius, dilo lor bredsonz or “water off the taro”, which in English could be translated as “water off a duck’s back”. Varieties Although taro is not a crop that’s commonly grown in Australian gardens, a number of named varieties are available. Organic supplier Green Harvest recommends ‘Bunlong’ (also sold as Purple Spot) for tropical zones. The flesh of this form of taro is white with purple flecks. For subtropical and warm coastal zones, ‘Chinese’ performs well. Other varieties include pink taro, sold as ‘Talo Niue’, and ‘Alafua Sunrise’. These are very starchy varieties that come originally from the Pacific region, including Hawaii, Samoa and Fiji. To buy taro, visit local grower markets in tropical and subtropical areas or order from online suppliers including Green Harvest (greenharvest.com.au). Planting and growing Taro can be grown year-round in hot, frostfree climates, but the ideal planting time in the tropics and subtropics is at the beginning of the wet season. In other areas, plant this crop in late spring as the soil warms and all CanStockPhoto 46 | Good Organic Gardening

Taro | TIME TO PLANT threat of frost or a cold snap has passed. It takes six to 12 months to harvest from planting, which is why plants can only be grown successfully in warm zones. In cold or inland areas with a short warm-season growing period, taro can be grown in a large (40cm or larger) container and moved into a warm, sheltered spot during autumn and winter. Taro grows in a wide range of soils and tolerates both well-drained and wet soils. In very wet areas, plant taro into a raised mound to reduce waterlogging. Although it tolerates wet soils and is grown in paddy fields in some parts of the world, it doesn’t thrive in stagnant water. It’s best in full sun but grows in part shade, especially in hot regions. Most commercial production of taro in Australia occurs in northern Queensland but crops are grown south to northern New South Wales and in inland areas. To prepare the ground for planting, remove all weeds. Dig in well-rotted organic matter before planting, to enrich the soil and improve its water-holding capacity. Also work in a high-potash fertiliser, which helps the large, starchy tubers to develop. Taro is grown from offshoots taken from an existing plant or from pieces of tuber. Tubers can be cut into segments before planting. Plant the pieces of tuber 5–8cm deep. Offshoots (also called setts) include several centimetres of tuber and a leaf shoot. Roots grow quickly from the base of the shoot once the offshoot is planted. They can also be started off in pots and transplanted into the soil as conditions warm. To produce a crop of taro, plant it in a row for ease of maintenance and watering. Space plants around 60–90cm apart to allow room for the leafy growth and for the tubers to mature. Where smaller amounts of taro are wanted over a longer period, plant it in small clumps throughout the year to stagger harvest times. Taro is much more than a starchy root vegetable. It’s a very handsome plant with large, green, heart-shaped leaves held on slender black stems. Plants grow to around 1–1.5m tall. Edible leaves? While waiting for the tubers to grow, the young leaves and stalks can be harvested to add to soups and stews. They should not be eaten uncooked due to high concentrations of calcium oxalate, which causes stinging and discomfort in the mouth and throat. Taro is a handsome leafy plant grown for its starchy underground tuber Taro can also be grown in damp areas such as beside water features or in areas that may get periodic inundation. Ongoing care Taro has few pests or diseases but doesn’t tolerate drying out. Keep plants growing strongly with regular water, particularly over the dry season, and the occasional addition of a high-potash fertiliser or top dressing of aged manure and compost. Plants that are moisture-stressed show slow growth and produce smaller, less starchy tubers. Mulch helps to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture as well as supplying extra nutrients to the soil. Harvesting and storage Taro crops need at least six to nine months of growth and can take longer in cooler zones or if the plants are moisture-stressed. The tubers are ready to lift when the foliage begins to yellow. Tubers can push to the surface. Mature tubers can reach 1–1.5kg in size and are usually round or slightly elongated. They need to be harvested by hand, first disturbing the soil. Rinse to remove soil before using or storing taro tubers. Taro tubers can be left in the ground until they are needed but, once harvested, they need to be used in around two to four weeks. They can be stored wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge. Taro must be cooked before it can be eaten. This is because it contains crystals of calcium oxalate, a mouth irritant. As a result, taro is peeled and cooked by baking, boiling or steaming. It has a starchy, nutty flavour. It’s often served mashed or as a casserole and can also be made into cakes or served as a dessert. Slices of taro can also be fried as chips. Taro is fairly sweet, high in carbohydrates and fibre, and provides a good source of vitamins and minerals, including vitamins B and E. Taro label Common name: Taro Botanical name: Colocasia esculenta Family: Araceae (arum family) Requires: Full sun Dislikes: Cold Suitable for: Tropics, subtropics, warm coastal Habit: Clumping perennial, to 1–1.5m tall Needs: Heat, humidity, shade Propagation: Tuber, offshoots, potted plants Difficulty: Easy Good Organic Gardening | 47

Taro | TIME TO PLANT<br />

threat of frost or a cold snap has passed.<br />

It takes six to 12 months to harvest from<br />

plant<strong>in</strong>g, which is why plants can only be<br />

grown successfully <strong>in</strong> warm zones. In cold or<br />

<strong>in</strong>land areas with a short warm-season grow<strong>in</strong>g<br />

period, taro can be grown <strong>in</strong> a large (40cm<br />

or larger) conta<strong>in</strong>er and moved <strong>in</strong>to a warm,<br />

sheltered spot dur<strong>in</strong>g autumn and w<strong>in</strong>ter.<br />

Taro grows <strong>in</strong> a wide range of soils and<br />

tolerates both well-dra<strong>in</strong>ed and wet soils. In very<br />

wet areas, plant taro <strong>in</strong>to a raised mound to<br />

reduce waterlogg<strong>in</strong>g. Although it tolerates wet<br />

soils and is grown <strong>in</strong> paddy fields <strong>in</strong> some parts<br />

of the world, it doesn’t thrive <strong>in</strong> stagnant water.<br />

It’s best <strong>in</strong> full sun but grows <strong>in</strong> part<br />

shade, especially <strong>in</strong> hot regions. Most<br />

commercial production of taro <strong>in</strong> Australia<br />

occurs <strong>in</strong> northern Queensland but crops<br />

are grown south to northern New South<br />

Wales and <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>land areas.<br />

To prepare the ground for plant<strong>in</strong>g, remove<br />

all weeds. Dig <strong>in</strong> well-rotted organic matter<br />

before plant<strong>in</strong>g, to enrich the soil and improve<br />

its water-hold<strong>in</strong>g capacity. Also work <strong>in</strong> a<br />

high-potash fertiliser, which helps the large,<br />

starchy tubers to develop.<br />

Taro is grown from offshoots taken from an<br />

exist<strong>in</strong>g plant or from pieces of tuber. Tubers<br />

can be cut <strong>in</strong>to segments before plant<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Plant the pieces of tuber 5–8cm deep.<br />

Offshoots (also called setts) <strong>in</strong>clude several<br />

centimetres of tuber and a leaf shoot. Roots<br />

grow quickly from the base of the shoot once<br />

the offshoot is planted.<br />

They can also be started off <strong>in</strong> pots and<br />

transplanted <strong>in</strong>to the soil as conditions warm.<br />

To produce a crop of taro, plant it <strong>in</strong> a<br />

row for ease of ma<strong>in</strong>tenance and water<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Space plants around 60–90cm apart to<br />

allow room for the leafy growth and for the<br />

tubers to mature. Where smaller amounts of<br />

taro are wanted over a longer period, plant<br />

it <strong>in</strong> small clumps throughout the year to<br />

stagger harvest times.<br />

Taro is much more than a starchy root<br />

vegetable. It’s a very handsome plant with large,<br />

green, heart-shaped leaves held on slender<br />

black stems. Plants grow to around 1–1.5m tall.<br />

Edible leaves?<br />

While wait<strong>in</strong>g for the tubers to grow,<br />

the young leaves and stalks can be<br />

harvested to add to soups and stews.<br />

They should not be eaten uncooked<br />

due to high concentrations of calcium<br />

oxalate, which causes st<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g and<br />

discomfort <strong>in</strong> the mouth and throat.<br />

Taro is a handsome leafy plant grown<br />

for its starchy underground tuber<br />

Taro can also be grown <strong>in</strong> damp areas such<br />

as beside water features or <strong>in</strong> areas that may<br />

get periodic <strong>in</strong>undation.<br />

Ongo<strong>in</strong>g care<br />

Taro has few pests or diseases but doesn’t<br />

tolerate dry<strong>in</strong>g out. Keep plants grow<strong>in</strong>g<br />

strongly with regular water, particularly over<br />

the dry season, and the occasional addition<br />

of a high-potash fertiliser or top dress<strong>in</strong>g<br />

of aged manure and compost. Plants that<br />

are moisture-stressed show slow growth<br />

and produce smaller, less starchy tubers.<br />

Mulch helps to suppress weeds and reta<strong>in</strong><br />

soil moisture as well as supply<strong>in</strong>g extra<br />

nutrients to the soil.<br />

Harvest<strong>in</strong>g and<br />

storage<br />

Taro crops need at least six to n<strong>in</strong>e months of<br />

growth and can take longer <strong>in</strong> cooler zones or<br />

if the plants are moisture-stressed. The tubers<br />

are ready to lift when the foliage beg<strong>in</strong>s to<br />

yellow. Tubers can push to the surface.<br />

Mature tubers can reach 1–1.5kg <strong>in</strong> size and<br />

are usually round or slightly elongated. They<br />

need to be harvested by hand, first disturb<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the soil. R<strong>in</strong>se to remove soil before us<strong>in</strong>g or<br />

stor<strong>in</strong>g taro tubers.<br />

Taro tubers can be left <strong>in</strong> the ground until<br />

they are needed but, once harvested, they<br />

need to be used <strong>in</strong> around two to four weeks.<br />

They can be stored wrapped <strong>in</strong> a plastic bag<br />

<strong>in</strong> the fridge.<br />

Taro must be cooked before it can be<br />

eaten. This is because it conta<strong>in</strong>s crystals of<br />

calcium oxalate, a mouth irritant. As a result,<br />

taro is peeled and cooked by bak<strong>in</strong>g, boil<strong>in</strong>g<br />

or steam<strong>in</strong>g. It has a starchy, nutty flavour. It’s<br />

often served mashed or as a casserole and can<br />

also be made <strong>in</strong>to cakes or served as a dessert.<br />

Slices of taro can also be fried as chips.<br />

Taro is fairly sweet, high <strong>in</strong> carbohydrates and<br />

fibre, and provides a good source of vitam<strong>in</strong>s<br />

and m<strong>in</strong>erals, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g vitam<strong>in</strong>s B and E.<br />

Taro label<br />

Common name: Taro<br />

Botanical name: Colocasia esculenta<br />

Family: Araceae (arum family)<br />

Requires: Full sun<br />

Dislikes: Cold<br />

Suitable for: Tropics, subtropics,<br />

warm coastal<br />

Habit: Clump<strong>in</strong>g perennial, to 1–1.5m tall<br />

Needs: Heat, humidity, shade<br />

Propagation: Tuber, offshoots,<br />

potted plants<br />

Difficulty: Easy<br />

<strong>Good</strong> <strong>Organic</strong> <strong>Garden<strong>in</strong>g</strong> | 47

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