Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty #73

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feature Why you should know your skin type In a nutshell, if you don’t know your skin type, you may wind up using the wrong skincare products for your skin. Caring for the wrong skin type can aggravate existing conditions, or even cause new ones. ‘Knowing one’s skin type is most important for establishing and maintaining skin health,’ says Dr Baumann. ‘That’s really the first goal. From there, knowing your skin type – and the ideal ingredients for it – helps prevent wasting money on the wrong products, wasting time waiting for results that won’t happen and, the worst-case scenario, harming the skin.’ ‘Most people are not equipped to self-diagnose their skin type, particularly when it involves multiple concerns. In this case, it is recommended to seek advice from a qualified skin professional,’ says Vinson. Determining your skin type can be confusing, and most people misdiagnose themselves. Instead of trying to pinpoint the traditional skin type categories, think of your skin as a hybrid of categories. It is also important to remember that your skin type can change due to variances like environment, lifestyle and age. ‘Nowadays there are excellent diagnostic tools available in clinics such as electronic facial scanners, which are able to identify skin concerns that are not always visible to the naked eye such as deep pigmentation, fine lines and high blood flow close to the skin’s surface which can result in redness,’ explains Vinson. How to care for your skin type Today there is an abundance of beauty treatment options, which can be as much a curse as a blessing. Using the wrong products may trigger reactions such as redness and flaking, causing people to incorrectly label their skin as sensitive or dry. Dr Baumann highlights that your skin type does more than affect the recommended skincare and treatments; it dictates them. ‘For example, a “sensitive” skin type won’t be able to tolerate a cleanser with glycolic acid but a “resistant” skin type could use the same cleanser with a sonic cleansing brush and apply a retinoid every night without a hint of redness or irritation. Other examples would be that “tight” skin types don’t need to waste money on anti-ageing products, and “pigmented” skin types need to be careful with in-office treatments such as lasers and peels,’ says Dr Baumann. ‘In terms of treatments, sensitive skin types should avoid chemical peels (although low-level salycylic acid can be recommended for certain sensitive skin types), skin needling and any aggressive clinical treatment,’ advises Vinson. ‘Pigmented skin should also be cautious of highly irritating ingredients and strong chemical peels as this may result in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). This risk can also be reduced by using tyrosinase inhibitors for two weeks prior to treatment as this will reduce the risk of PIH,’ she adds. As for diet and lifestyle, Dr Baumann believes that if you’re prone to acne you should minimise your intake of dairy. ‘I also tell my patients to avoid sugar (as well as refined carbohydrates), especially if they are concerned about visible signs of ageing, since research has established that high blood sugar levels may damage the skin’s supportive collagen and elastin,’ she says. Oily skin types should avoid ingredients containing comedogenic oils and waxes such as coconut oil, as this will cause blockage of the pores. It is also recommended to avoid certain algae extracts as these can also be comedogenic. ‘It is also not well publicised that SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate), the most commonly used foaming agent in facial cleansers, is highly comedogenic. Reach for cleansers that use naturally derived foaming agents instead. It is also wise for oily skins to avoid rich facial salon treatments as this can also cause skin congestion,’ Vinson says. To check for sensitivity and avoid skin reactions, always perform a patch test on the side of your neck when trying new products over a one-week period. ‘Anti-irritant ingredients should be added to the skincare regimen such as aloe vera, allantoin, Canadian willow herb and some of the new anti-redness and anti-inflammatory peptides,’ says Vinson. No matter what your skin type, it’s important to remember that you should be religiously applying sunscreen, at all times of the year. Protecting your skin from incidental sun exposure is vital for helping to prevent skin cancer and the effects of ageing that come from the sun’s powerful UV rays. ‘There is one product that is essential to all skin types: sunscreen. Opt for physical sunscreen in the form of zinc oxide or apply mineral makeup containing high levels of large-particle zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These products will act as a physical barrier to UV light, and will protect you throughout the day; sunscreen is truly your defense against ageing!’ concludes Vinson. csbm 42 www.cosbeauty.com.au
Work out your Baumann Skin Type Dry (D) vs Oily (O) Your skin’s oil production and ability to hold onto water determine your skin’s hydration status and tendency toward enlarged or clogged pores. Sensitive (S) vs Resistant (R) Sensitive skin types experience acne, redness, burning, stinging or frequent rashes. Resistant skin types rarely suffer from inflammation, and need stronger ingredients. Pigmented (P) vs Non-pigmented (N) Pigmented skin types experience discoloration, while Non-pigmented skin types are even in colour. This parameter is independent of ethnicity. Wrinkle prone (W) vs Tight (T) Wrinkle-prone skin types require anti-ageing ingredients, while Tight skin types are teenagers and others who are not yet ready for ageing prevention. Skincare recommendations based on the Baumann skin type Baumann skin type OSPW OSPT OSNW OSNT ORPW ORPT ORNW ORNT DSPW DSPT DSNW DSNT DRPW DRPT DRNW DRNT Recommended skincare products feature Should contain sunscreen, retinoids, depigmenting ingredients, antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, retinoids, depigmenting ingredients, and antiinflammatory ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, retinoids, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Should contain retinoids, and antiinflammatory ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, hydroxy acids, retinoids, depigmenting ingredients, and antioxidants. Should contain sunscreen, retinoids, hydroxy acids, and depigmenting ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, retinoids, hydroxy acids, and antioxidants. Should contain sunscreen and retinoids. Should contain sunscreen, barrier repair moisturising ingredients, retinoids, depigmenting ingredients, antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, barrier repair moisturising ingredients, retinoids, depigmenting ingredients, and antiinflammatory ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, barrier repair moisturising ingredients, retinoids, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, barrier repair moisturising ingredients retinoids, and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, moisturisers, hydroxy acids, retinoids, depigmenting ingredients, and antioxidants. Should contain sunscreen, moisturisers, retinoids, hydroxy acids, and depigmenting ingredients. Should contain sunscreen, moisturisers, retinoids, hydroxy acids, and antioxidants. Should contain sunscreen, moisturisers, and retinoids. www.cosbeauty.com.au 43
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Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty #73

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