Lageder_AltoAdige

An Assyrtiko from
Alto Adige and Alois Lageder
By Stefan Metzner (2016.07.)
Pale yellow colour, elegant, complex aroma profile of
quince, yellow stone fruit and subtle notes of butter,
vanilla and brioche.
Lifted fresh acidity, mid body weight and creamy
texture from extended lees ageing and toasty notes from
barrique maturation, hints of aldehydic notes.
Long vivid finish with excellent balance of racy acidity and
mid body and sufficient complexity and length to age over
the next decade.

Now, if you read a tasting note like that on an Assyrtiko from Santorini,
if it‘s Gaia, Sigalas, Argyros, or any other top producer from
Greece, you could be surprised by the use of a barrique - maybe.
Having the confirmation about the wine being made from Assyrtiko
but from none of the above leads to consideration of any other
Greek winery you ever visited or tasted wines from.
You might consider cool climate influence by mid body weight and
be right.
Loam and clay soils by the rich texture, right again!
And yet you never get even close to the origin.
For this wine does not come from Greece or Australia but from Alto
Adige.
This one is still in a barrique in the cave of biodynamic certified winery
Tenuta Lageder, in Magreid, Alto Adige (Südtirol).
The visionary Alois Lageder started experimenting with warm climate
varieties such as Tannat, Carmenere, Syrah, Assyrtiko, Viognier,
Marsanne, Roussanne and others as early as 2004 as he realized
that climate change is inevitable. Concerning Assyrtiko, this

was planted in 900 square meters (9 Ar = 0,09 ha) on a steep slope
in the mountains above Magreid in 2007.
Plants were sourced from VNB nursery in Nemea.
The high pH (7,5) soil (sandy soil with clay and loam) and high Ca
content suggested for the use of Paulsen 1103 ( Berlandieri x Rupestris).
Biodynamic viticulture was moreover applied from the beginning.
This 2015 Assyrtiko is an outstanding wine which I would like to
have in my cellar. However, if it ever will be released and if so, when
and at which price point is not decided yet.

The leading role of Tenuta Lageder in their field is continued by
Clemens Lageder (shown at the picture above with head winemaker
Jo Pfisterer ) today and a new project, „Kometenweine“ is
emphasized. The Assyrtiko is playing a vital role in the concept.
„Comets shine bright and show you a way, but are not there all the
time“ says Clemens and explains that they try many new things,
not necessarily to have a stable production but to show where the
development might go.
Tannat, pink Pinot Grigio (on the skins for 6 month, yet no yellow
wine) are some examples. Also they head for even more differentiation
of vineyard plots by installing more and more small batch
containers (mostly wood) and gather experience on vats from oak,
acacia and others in various sizes.
In strict pursue of Steiner‘s anthroposophical ideology, all
information is shared, making a visit to that winery a very special
experience and in my opinion one of the „must do when around“.