JB Life Summer Vol. 3

Jeollabuk-do’s International Magazine
July 2016, Issue #3
Registration No. ISSN: 2508-1284
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INTERNATIONAL BEAT
- International Center News
JB LIFE is published by the JBCIA
(Jeollabukdo Center for International Affairs)
전라북도 국제교류센터
Editorial Team:
ANJEE DISANTO, U.S.A.,
M.A. Communication & Rhetoric
JB LIFE LAYOUT & DESIGN
Anjee is a ten-year resident of Jeonju
and visiting professor at Chonbuk National
University. While living here, she
has traveled to 42 countries as well as
explored and photographed most parts
of the Korean peninsula. She is the English
editor of CBNU’s student magazine
and has worked extensively with
10 Magazine in Seoul.
DAVID VAN MINNEN, Canada,
B.A. Humanities/Classical Languages
JB LIFE CHIEF PROOFREADER
David came to Jeonbuk in 2004. In
2006, he created the Jeonju Hub website
to help foreign residents and has
been highly active in outreach since.
After 4 years operating a saloon and
5 running a restaurant, he works as a
corporate English consultant. He lives
with his wife, Jeonju artist Cheon Jeong
Kyeong, and two children.
Featured Contributors:
BONNIE CUNNINGHAM, U.S.A., B.A. Visual
Arts, is a new teacher in Korea. She loves
to travel and make artwork along the way.
While Bonnie currently focuses on painting,
her background is in film and video. She is
excited to be living in Korea and looks forward
to seeing what the new environment
lends to her artwork.
FELIPE GOMES divides his time between freelancing
and making random mental notes
about all the culture shock around. He has
been having a grand time visiting Jeonju
since 2015. On the other hand, he is still
figuring out how to make 6 years of digital
marketing and game writing experience link
to fun new projects.
LYNDON CAPON is a native New Zealander
who has been teaching English in Jeonju
since 2002. He likes Jeonju as it’s not too
big, not too small, and is a great place to
pursue his hobbies. His interests are mountain
biking, paragliding, travelling, and, being
a kiwi, he also keenly follows rugby.
MICHELINE LEGER is a native New-Brunswicker
from Canada. She studied Criminology
and Criminal Justice at St-Thomas University
in Fredericton. Teaching and writing are
her passions. She is currently writing a science
fiction novel. Micheline currently lives
in Jeonju, where she follows the inspirations
around her.
MARLI JANSE VAN VUUREN is from South Africa.
She has degrees in both teaching and
photography and and is a big fan of Dachshunds.
164 Palgwajeong-ro, Deokjin-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do, Korea
Tel:(+82) 63-214-5605~6 Fax: (+82) 63-214-5608
DOWON KIM, Korea,
BA Biological Science
JB LIFE JBCIA LIAISON
Dowon is a member of JBCIA and
delivers stories of what is happening
in the center and what the center does
for Jeollabuk-do. She has lived in New
Zealand so she loves meeting new people
from diverse countries. Passionate
about food, cycle, music and dogs. You
can ask about the center through her
e-mail at dwkim411@jbcia.or.kr.
YOUNG-WOO PARK, Korea,
Ph.D. TESOL
JB LIFE KOREAN CONSULTANT
Dr. Park has been teaching English for
33 years, with interests in various levels
from young learner to university.
He has worked for several universities
in Jeonju, Gwangju, and Daejeon, and
maintains strong connections with several
Western and Asian universities. He
is especially interested in training university
students for their job searches.
RENEE McMILLAN has been living and teaching
in Jeonju for five years. A recovering actress,
Renee has become addicted to travel
and photography. She enjoys sharing her
stories and adventures, and is excited to
work with JB Life in capturing the beauty of
Jeollabukdo.
SORCHA RATTIGAN was born in Milton
Keynes (England), land of concrete cows and
roundabouts. She would often daydream of
foreign lands and far flung adventures. As
an adult, she manifests all kinds of mischief.
Her curiosity allows her to enjoy the smaller
things in life and she has learnt that happiness
is a choice we can choose every day.
STUART SCOTT, a Jeonju resident since 2003,
teaches at JJU and recently collaborated on a
series of English teaching books. One of his
favorite hobbies is studying history, folklore,
and myths. Stuart grew up in Canada, where
he graduated with a degree in history and
political science. He has since completed a
masters in applied linguistics in Korea.
SUZANNE SCHNEIDER, co-founder of REACH
ministries, is passionate about raising
awareness on trafficking and prostitution
in Korea. She is co-author of the textbook
series Practical Writing and works at JJU. She
is president of Jeonju-North Jeolla KOTESOL.
Suzanne loves spending time on the beach
near her hometown of San Diego, California.
SWARNALEE DUTTA is from India and has
been living in Jeonju for 2 years, working
as a postdoctoral scientist at the National
Institute of Agricultural Sciences. While her
toddler keeps her happily busy, she loves to
read about varied topics and keeps learning
whatever life holds out for her.
Jeollabukdo Global Living
Summer 2016 / Issue #3
Jeonbuk Life is a quarterly project of the Jeollabuk-do
Center for International Affairs. Our goal is to spread news
to Jeollabuk-do’s international community, as well as to
carry news of Jeonbuk throughout Korea and abroad. This
magazine is currently published once per season, in April,
July, October, and January.
To get involved, email jeonbuklife@gmail.com
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HISTORY
- Legend of the Dongbaek Flower
FEATURE STORY
- Paragliding in Jeonbuk
INTERVIEW
- Food Blogger Mark Wiens
TOUR
- Getting to Know Soyang
LOCAL FOOD SHOWCASE
- Hwashim Sundubu
- Hwasan Cham Bungeojim
ARTS
- Hanji Naty: Canadian Hanji Crafts
GLOBAL JEONBUK
- Alsamad Middle Eastern Food
- Around the Table with Taryn Delish
WORLDVIEW
- Shamanism: Deep Roots
LOCAL VOICES
- Felipe Gomes
- Swarnalee Dutta
- Sorcha Rattigan
- Liliana Tintin
FICTION
- “Ajummas United” by Micheline Leger
GRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION
- “The Future is Dark”
JEOLLA DIALECT
Jeonbuk Life 3

INTERNATIONAL BEAT
Staying Global with the
Jeonbuk’s Center for International Affairs (JBCIA) will
turn one year old this Fall. Besides funding this magazine,
their scope and number of programs are continually
increasing in an attempt to bridge between North Jeolla residents,
both native and foreign, and to connect globally. Here
are the most recent and ongoing programs of this young center.
1. GLOBAL TALK!TALK!TALK!:
THE HARVARD KROKODILOES
The Jeonbuk Center for International Affairs recently invited
the Harvard Krokodiloes, an a cappella singing group from the
esteemed Ivy League university, to perform in Jeonju. This
performance was the third event in a series of globally minded
programs called “Global Talk!Talk!Talk!” and was the first
time for the group to visit Jeollabuk-do. The collegiate crooners
stopped here as part of their 2016 tour of Asia, a reprise to
their visit to the Korea Foundation Gallery in 2015.
Comprised of 12 university students, the Kroks are a
now-legendary a cappella singing group of Harvard University,
beloved by audiences for their outstanding harmony, witty
interpretations of musical standards, and impromptu stage humor.
The Kroks, during the group’s 70-year history, have produced
numerous individuals who have gone on to attain notable
success in various sectors of U.S. society. Active on stage,
they perform more than 200 times a year, including overseas
tours during their summer vacation. They have captivated audiences
around the world with their harmony and humor, while
performing for kings, presidents, and ambassadors of various
countries, in addition to gaining to high acclaim for their performances
at such prestigious venues as the Lincoln Center
and Carnegie Hall.
In a widely known incident, renowned conductor Leonard
Bernstein highly praised the group by writing original music
for them and noting: “The Harvard Krodokiloes have the gift
of warming one’s soul and enriching one’s day.” This shows
that the Kroks long enjoyed widespread popularity in the U.S.
and beyond. Since their first visit to Korea in 1997, the Kroks
have since performed in Korea on a regular basis. They again
included Korea in their overseas tour program this year due to
high demand from Korean audiences.
This performance was the third out of a series of four “Global
Talk!Talk!Talk!” programs designed for local residents. The
final in the series, with date and place to be announced, will be
a program on “global manners and etiquette” to teach interested
residents international customs.
Promotional photo courtesy of the Harvard
Krokodiloes.
2. JEOLLABUK-DO’S LEVEL ONE
TOPIK BOOK
With the spread of Korean culture around the globe, Korean
language learning has also been on the rise in recent
years. This has, in turn, led to a boost in those studying for
and taking the TOPIK test (Test of Proficiency in Korean).
However, most TOPIK books cover only broadly Korean
themes and mostly Seoul-specific landmarks. A new Level
One TOPIK book focused on Jeollabuk-do themes in changing
this, though. This book was made by the Chonbuk National
University Development of Regional Advancement
University Project Consortium and includes North Jeolla’s
travel sites, traditional culture, food, etc. The book has been
finished and printed and will be used by foreign students in
universities as well as in countries such as Indonesia and
China, where Korean is a second language. For students
who are willing to come to Korea to study, the book is sure
to increase local interest in Korea and North Jeolla.
3. FOREIGN STUDENTS
PUBLIC RELATIONS TEAM
To help promote the province in a more globally minded
way, eight teams of foreign students were selected for the
Foreign Students Public Relations Team and acted to take
photos and videos of various places in Jeonbuk. The first
round of teams performed their tasks from May to July and
Volunteers work to
provide the semi-monthly free meal service.
were responsible for showing Korean customs, lifestyle,
and study environment to their friends and family in their
countries and to other foreigners in Korea. The first batch
of PR team members were mostly from China, Mongolia,
and India, with many attending Chonbuk National Univerity
and Jeonju University. As might be expected, team members
love living in Jeonbuk and were proud of being members of
the PR team, which allowed them the opportunity to go to
different areas and snap shots of the culture. The team traveled
to Namwon, Buan, Jeonju, Iksan, and Gunsan, experiencing
traditional clothing, plays, food, and various activities
for university students. Their promotional works have
been uploaded to the international center’s Facebook page
for those interested in an outside glimpse of Korean culture.
(www.facebook.com/jbcia151001)
4. FOREIGN VOLUNTEERISM
In recent months, the JBCIA gathered foreign workers, students,
homemakers, etc., to volunteer around Jeonbuk where
needed. Fifty people have been recruited so far, and they
have been happy to help the elderly and unfortunate around
the province. A voluntary service providing free meals via
the group now takes place every first and third Tuesday of
each month, so anyone who is interested in helping people
can freely contact the international center to join. nlb1234@
jbcia.or.kr / 063-214-5604
CONTINUED ON PAGE 6...
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Jeonbuk Life 5

INTERNATIONAL BEAT
HISTORY
Teen Global Leaders field trip
participants.
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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 5...
5. JEOLLABUK-DO
INTERNATIONAL SUPPORTERS
UNITY (JISU)
In the spring, Jeonbuk’s international center recruited
members for “JISU,” or the Jeollabuk-do International
Supporters Unity program. The goal of this program
was to amass a group to work on globally related tasks
in the areas of computer, translation, staff jobs, counselling,
culture and art, homestay, etc., for a nine-month
period from April to December 2016… and what a success!
200 people applied for JISU, and about 150 are
currently working with the center.
An orientation was held in April, dividing supporters
into two teams. The planning team suggests ideas for
Koreans and foreigners to get along with one another
and does marketing on the center’s business. With this
in mind, some JISUs will make videos and take photos
related to the center’s business or local performances
(singing, dancing, MC, etc.). Meanwhile, the progress
team is backing up every event to ensure it goes smoothly.
This means they do translation, make flyers, or teach
skills that are needed for the events. The two teams also
do voluntary service with foreigners: free meal service,
mural painting, coal providing service, homestay, etc.
6. TEEN GLOBAL LEADERS
FIELD TRIP
It is hard to have a chance to visit the UN, the Ministry
of Foreign Affairs, and other international organizations.
With this in mind, the international center recently recruited
young students to become global leaders when
they grow up and gave them some of these treasured opportunities.
There were two field trips to UNESCAP and
the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, with the visits intended to
broaden the international thinking of these young minds.
Through the trips, the students looked around the offices
and checked out what kinds of work were done in each
department. They also took the time to talk with professional
workers. In the end, all were satisfied with the
broadened experience of the trips. To educate and train
more students in Jeonbuk to be the next global leaders,
there will be a mock UN debate in October. Students can
join starting July through the website. (www.jbcia.or.kr)
With the province’s international center only a year old,
the programs offered are still expanding and greatly improving
in quality with each quarter. There will always be
more to do to live globally and to include and manage the
interests of foreign residents, so to get involved in these
or any of the center’s programs, visit the website at jbcia.
or.kr.
By STUART SCOTT
Jeonbuk Life Contributing Writer
There are many folk tales dealing with plants and
flowers. The ancient Greeks and Romans believed
parsley was a symbol of death and rebirth.
Achemorus, a Greek hero, was killed by a serpent. Legend
says that a parsley plant sprang up from his blood. Greeks
would put parsley on tombs of loved ones, hoping for their
rebirth. If someone was near death, people would say they
needed parsley.
In Kenya, the God Ruwa made people immortal but instructed
them not to eat any yams. One day “death” convinced
the people to cook the yams for him. However, when the God
Ruwa realized what they had done, he took away their immortality.
The violet also has a place in mythology. Attis was killed by
a wild boar. On the places where his blood fell, legend says
that violets grew. This story is of special interest because it
has a similar theme to the Dongbaek flower.
When I first heard of the legend of Dongbaek, I was told
that it was a story of a young couple. The husband went to
war and never returned. The flower grew from the blood of
his wife. However, when trying to get more details of this
story, I came across three others, and I believe there are more.
The first one is a story of a poor young fishing couple on
Daechong Island. One day, the husband returned to his home
village to attend to his ill parents. Every day, his wife went to
the sea, waiting for her husband’s return. He stayed with his
sick parents for a long time. When he finally did return, his
wife had died. He went to her grave, and his tears watered a
Dongbaek seed. A tree grew on this spot the following spring.
The second story also involved a young fishing couple.
While the husband was out fishing, a thief entered their home.
He tried to kill the young bride, but she ran away. While looking
for her husband, she fell off a high cliff. Her husband
found her and buried her there. Legend says the Dongbaek
flower grew from her grave.
The final story is one of a childless king. His younger brother
had children, and thus the king’s nephew was heir to the
throne. The king did not like this arrangement, and he planned
to kill his nephew. However, the king’s brother tricked the
King, putting his adopted sons in the place of his real sons.
The two adopted sons, according to the legend, turned into
birds and flew away. When the younger brother was buried,
the Dongbaek flower grew from his grave.
“Camellia” is the English name for the Dongbaek flower.
This flower has economic importance as it is used in the
making of tea. Today, many camellias are grown more for
ornamental value. Depending on location, the colour may
be red, white, yellow or pink. The Dongbaek legend appears
to have its roots in Jeollanamdo or Jejudo. However, if one
wants to see this beautiful flower, one does not need to leave
the province. Seonunsa temple, near Gochang, has many of
these flowers. The temple itself was first built in 577 AD. Of
course, it has since been burned by the Japanese and rebuilt.
The temple also has many other cultural properties, but behind
the temple is a forest of camellia trees. They are estimated
to be 500 years old and have been designated as a natural
monument. Dongbaeks are green year round but flower in the
late winter or very early spring. This makes Seonunsa an ideal
destination for that season.
There are always reasons for some to find fault with folktales,
but regardless, it is without dispute that the Dongbaek
flower has a special place in history and will be forever cherished
for its beauty.
* Flower photo above licensed under Creative Commons by SA-2.0,
with original credit to Flickr user juantiagues.
Jeonbuk Life 7

FEATURE STORY
How did I first get into Paragliding?
I
first started paragliding in Korea in 2002 as I had a
Kiwi friend from back home who was into the sport.
He lived in Incheon, but it turned out that Jeonju is
home to one of the best paragliding sites in Korea. He used
to bus down to Jeonju on the weekends to fly, and I’d to go
out with him to watch him take off. The site was at a mountain
called Gyeonggaksan, which is by the Gui reservoir, opposite
Moaksan. It’s just 10 minutes south of Jeonju.
About the second or third time I went out to watch him,
some pilots from one of the local clubs suggested I should
give paragliding a go.
I told them I had never done it before, and the response I
got was, “No problem!”
The next thing I knew, they had me strapped into a paraglider
in the take-off area and I was about to launch!
It was a Sunday, and being a bit gingerly from the Saturday
night before, I hadn’t really had time to digest the potential
danger in which I was putting myself. I just went along
with it. The Korean pilots helped me take off, which was a
blur. The next thing I remember was being alone in the air
with the surreal experience of natural flight. It was an airy
feeling to be floating whilst enjoying the vista of the countryside
below. From that moment on I was hooked. Since
then I have had about 120 flights, with the longest flight being
around 90 minutes long.
How good is Jeonju for flying?
Gyeonggaksan in Jeonju is a great place to fly. Ideally, you
want the wind to be coming from the North, but a Northeaast,
Northwest or even a Westerly wind will suffice. When
it comes to paragliding, you can actually fly in fairly still air,
but you need a wind speed of at least 8km/hr to maintain altitude,
with around 15 km/hr being ideal. Gyeonggaksan has
more reliable wind than most flying sites in the country, especially
in the winter months. I’m affiliated with a paragliding
club called “Cha u Behang,” which translates to “Free Fly.”
Actually, near Gyeonggaksan, there are seven paragliding
clubs with a total membership between 200 to 300 pilots. On
any given weekend, when the wind is suitable, there are usually
about 20 to 30 gliders in the air at one time. However, on
any given day, there could easily be many more pilots flying
at the site. At the take off you have a nice view of Gui Lake
and of Jeonju itself. Once in the air, you can fly 700 meters to
the left of the takeoff and about 3 km to the right. Take off is
350 meters above sea level. Once in the air, and if the wind is
reasonable, you can stay in the air as long as you want; however,
an hour is usually enough for me.
A Guide by Lyndon Capon, NZ
To me, paragliding is the purest form of human flight; uninterrupted panoramic views of the world around
you with time to enjoy it. If I had to sum up Paragliding in one sentence, it would be “floating in the sky,
breathing the fresh crisp air and looking at the world below.”
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PHOTOS courtesy of Lyndon Capon. The photos used in this article show the writer himself in
flight over the North Jeolla countryside.
Jeonbuk Life 9

FEATURE STORY
Is paragliding difficult?
It can be, but not really. Taking off certainly can be difficult,
as when you unpack your glider there is a dizzying
amount of lines and cords to organize. In strong winds
the glider can manhandle you on the ground, but once in
the air you feel at one with the glider, and generally it is
just left and right. That’s a very simplified analysis of it,
but it’s true. In low winds it can be challenging to keep
altitude in the air. If you can’t keep your altitude, then
you have to make a decision when to land. The earlier
this decision is made the better. When landing, you need
spatial awareness to judge your descent, which can be
difficult, but it is certainly easier than taking off.
Is paragliding dangerous?
It can be, but if you are respectful of the elements you
can certainly minimise the risk.
When I first started paragliding, it took me roughly
my first forty flights to trust the equipment, which is of
course safe. It is very unlikely that the equipment will let
you down. It is also worth noting that at the Gyeonggaksan
location, there has only been one paragliding fatality,
and that was due to a pilot taking off and not clipping
himself in.
If the wind is strong, I don’t enjoy it anyway, as you get
knocked around in the air and it’s generally stressful. If
it too is windy, just don’t take off. A friend told me this
wise advice: It’s better to be on the ground wishing you
were in the air than be in the air wishing you were on the
ground.
What equipment is needed, and is it expensive?
You need a paragliding sail, a harness, a helmet, and a
vario (an electronic piece of equipment which tells you
if you are ascending/descending in height as well as your
altitude). If you buy all your kit second-hand, you can
pick it up for 1,500,000 to 2,000,000 won.
What wind speed is needed?
You can do a sled run with zero wind speed. You need
a wind speed of at least 8 km/hr to float (stay in the air).
Maximum wind speeds paragliders should fly in:
- Beginner Pilot: 15 km/hr (20 km/hr for a mini wing)
- Intermediate Pilot: 22 km/hr (30 km/hr for a miniwing)
- Expert Pilot: 25 km/hr (40 km/hr for a mini wing)
Paragliders weigh about 14 to 20 kg, give or take. In
the air at trim speed, they fly at about 30 km/hr (40 km/hr
for a miniwing), but with a speed bar can fly up to about
50 km/hr.
Any other facts about paragliding in Korea?
I have been very lucky to be mentored by Mr. Ha, an
excellent local pilot. When conditions are right, he, along
with other local pilots on occasion, flies all the way to
Namwon, Osu, or Imsil. This takes about 2 hours in the
air and is about 50km from Jeonju. On one occasion, a local
pilot even flew to Gimcheon-si - which is near Daegu
- and this happens to be the Korean paragliding distance
record!
If you are interested in having a tandem flight organised
for you with a local Korean pilot, they charge 70,000 to
100,000Won depending on the club and the pilot.
LEFT: Taking off is generally the most difficult
part of the sport.
BELOW: A map of the nearby paragliding
site. [Photos courtesy of LYNDON CAPON]
Best Flying Sites in Korea
(with Jeonju coming in at 4th!)
#1 - Dangyang
#2 - Yangoyeong (near Seoul)
#3 - Boryeong (Okmasan)
#4 - Jeonju (Gyeonggaksan)
#5 - Pyeongchang-gun (Jangamsan in Gangwon-do)
#6 - Yongin (Jungkwang, which is near Everland)
#7 - Mungyeong (north east of Daejon)
OTHER FLYING SITES IN KOREA
- Bibongsan near Jecheon (northeast of Daejon, north of
Mungyeong)
- Pohang (north of Ulsan)
- Mt. Gwaebang in Gangneung-si, (south of Sokcho)
- Bongrae (Byeolmaro Observatory, Yeongwol)
- Sokcho
OTHER FLYING SITES NEAR JEONJU
- Hwangbangsan (in actual Jeonju itself)
- Mireuksan (between Jeonju and Iksan)
- Oseoungsan (near Gunsan)
- Mabongsan Mountain / Nongae Flying Park (near
Jangsu)
- Bibongsan / Pyeongsa-ri Camping Ground (near Gurye
/ Jirisan)
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Gui
Reservoir
Landing
Area
Take-off
Area
Flight Path (Typical)
Jeonbuk Life 11

INTERVIEW
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Food Blogger Mark Wiens
Dishes on Jeonbuk Food
By ANJEE DISANTO, Jeonbuk Life Co-Editor
“Some people like to eat, but you LOVE to eat. No, no – that’s an understatement.
You’re obsessed. You’re addicted to food. You’re thinking about
what you want to eat for dinner when you’re eating a delicious lunch. Don’t
worry – I do that, too.”
traditional Hanok Village area. But in Wiens’ opinion, this is
perhaps not where the lines belong.
“You know, in my opinion, the real Korean food experience
is not the street food,” Wiens said. “But it’s the restaurants
where you sit at the table and you’re served all the bancheon
sides dishes. The hanjeongshik. The street food is kind of
modern, and I’m not huge on it, but I am huge on the bancheon
and the sit-down side dishes. I think that’s where the real experience
is.”
But as for the top highlight of his culinary adventures here,
Wiens is very much in sync with the thoughts of many frequent
food tourists. His top choice?
Makkeoli.
“Oh, the makkeoli was pretty awesome,” Wiens explained
about the classic rice wine and spread. “That’s a world-class
Korean culinary experience. That was impressive. It’s probably
one of the best, just for everything involved, the total experience.”
Wiens’ upcoming videos on Migrationology.com are sure to
give more detailed tips and reviews on enjoying Jeonbuk food,
but in the meantime, he also offered a few food tips for local
foodies traveling abroad. For one thing, in terms of picking
where to eat, Wiens seems to be a fan of going global but eating
local, and perhaps off the beaten path at that.
“I try to highly avoid touristy restaurants, so I try to research
in that language or go to websites or blogs, forums, that are in
the local languages,” Wiens explained. “My biggest way now
that I have somewhat of a following is to reach out to followers
that are from that place and ask them where to go, by social
media. And then finally, just straight up walking around. It
works extremely well when sometimes you can just feel it,
when you go and you see a line of people. I just like to explore
anything local especially.”
And if wondering where to travel for food, Wiens offered
up his top three spots outside of Korea, though it was understandably
hard to choose: India, Mexico, and Thailand. As
someone based in Thailand, he particularly recommends going
“off book” and trying out more than just the most popular 10
or so dishes in that (or any) country. He even recommended a
Thai rice salad that carries a similar spirit to Jeonju’s beloved
This true-to-life monologue starts the top video on food blogger Mark Wien’s popular You-
bibimbap.
Tube channel, Migrationology. With nearly 400,000 followers and counting, the Bangkok-based
“It’s a similar mix of rice and toppings and ingredients,
channel and accompanying website (migrationology.com) are mediums through which Wiens
without being fried rice,” he describes. “It’s called khao yam,
communicates to viewers that, indeed, “Food is the reason you should travel.”
but it’s a completely different flavor because it’s topped with
“Food has always been a passion of mine, ever since I was a kid,” Wiens explains, “and also
toasted coconut, bean sprouts, and Kaffir lime leaves, so it’s
eating and learning about food to learn about people and cultures. I started traveling and blogging,
even about things I wasn’t interested in. But then I decided, I’m going to go ahead and
With dozens of cities under his belt for global culinary ex-
like an herbal bibimbap or a tropical bibimbap.”
focus in on a niche that I’m interested in – food and travel. It’s one of the best reasons to travel.”
ploration, Wiens’ and his website and channel have lots more
With Jeonbuk province widely known as the food capital of Korea, such a sentiment is not a
tips to offer for travel and tasting. Check out migrationology.com
or search for “migrationology” on YouTube to check
hard sell here. It’s also no surprise that Wiens’ culinary adventures brought him to the area, or
that he had much to say about the region’s cuisine. Partially sponsored by the Jeonbuk Center
him out, and be sure keep an eye out for his postings of Jeonbuk-themed
videos starting this July.
for International Affairs, Wiens spent several weeks in North Jeolla in April, videoing daily for a
series of Jeonbuk-themed food and travel videos that will hit his channel this July.
And the food here? As you might imagine, even for a culinary connoisseur, it didn’t disappoint.
“There have been a lot of great foods!” Wiens affirmed. “And definitely some stand-out meals.
What I’ve noticed is there’s such an extreme diversity just in this little province. You have access
to the sea, and to the mountains, and so one day we had just the most insane seafood feast of
all, random exotic things from the sea. I think it was in Gunsan. Then the next day we were in
Jangsu for top-quality beef, so that’s something I’ve loved – the diversity of the ingredients you
could get.”
Wiens’ opinions largely echo and reaffirm the tastes of the myriad travelers who’ve come before,
but with some exceptions. The Korea Tourism Organization recently found via survey that
street food was one of the top experiences that visitors wanted to have in Korea. And any visitor
to Jeonju is well aware of the lines and apparent popularity of street delicacies, particularly in the
13

JEONBUK TOUR
Getting to Know
SOYANG
LEFT: One of dozens
of Buddha-adorned
wish towers on the
path to Wibongsa.
RIGHT: The serene
central courtyard at
Wibong Temple.
[Photos by ANJEE
DISANTO]
By FELIPE FIRMINO GOMES
Jeonbuk Life Contributing Writer
Planning a quick trip to the outskirts of the city, especially
if you live in Jeonju, may not only be a
welcome change of pace to any busy life, but also
easier than you may think. May we suggest Soyang – a rural
area of Wanju that bursts alive in any season, from the cherry
blossoms in spring to the painted colors of leaves in Fall. A
quick bus (with an unusual route through valleys and mountains)
or a pleasant drive out of the city is all that is needed
for a dive into many countryside attractions in the region.
Temples, fortresses, coffee places, and a lot of greenery await
those brave enough to challenge the status quo of just staying
home or close to it every weekend. Here are just a few of the
things you won’t regret doing in Soyang, but be sure to bring
people along with you to make the most of them.
Wibongsa
The more urban parts of Jeolla might be misleading with
their proliferation of fancy new buildings, and the same
trend has started to follow into rural areas like Soyang,
with glamorous cafes and villas popping up all around.
On first glance, it might seem one should come merely
for the modern cafes and greenery, thinking there is less
past residing here. Wibongsa is one of those places that
help prove otherwise. The temple itself, dating back to the
year 604, once presided over 52 temple branches in the
Honam region. This historic asset was later protected by
a huge 16-km fortress, which started construction in 1675.
A portion of the older temple is gone, but the amount of
buildings still intact today is impressive considering the
attacks the region has suffered, especially from the Japanese
Army. Also, a considerable amount of the Wibong
Fortress wall is still there, nearby the temple entrance, and
can be accessed and enjoyed with a pleasant hike.
Wibongsa is perched on a hill, which helped the odds
of keeping a certain sense of peace, and this strategic position
held a historic function: the temple was chosen as
residence for the important portrait of King Taejo (one of
the most important Korean kings who ruled during the
Joseon period) for a considerate amount of time, since
Gyeonggijeon (the original place where the portrait can
be seen until this day) was under the constant threat of
attack during the Donghak Peasant Revolution.
The main area of Wibongsa has a very cozy temple,
a big pavilion, and beloved wall paintings, along with a
garden of a variety of flowers which are harder to spot in
busy areas like urban Jeonju. The monks have even constructed
a greenhouse alongside the temple wall, giving
the location an outward sense of self-sufficiency. Despite
all that, the main attraction around to an outsider is probably
outside the temple: a collection of rock towers put
together by visitors, lining the path alongside one of the
entrances to the grounds. People come from all places in
Jeonbuk Life 15

JEONBUK TOUR
the region to put new rocks over the ones that are already
there, making the piles taller and taller, and, according
to their beliefs, making it easier to achieve a certain type
of wish. Relief from diseases for themselves or relatives,
help with personal and professional accolades, happiness.
Every rock is a wish, and it’s a wonder to imagine the
motivation behind the placement of each rock. Even more
impressive is to think that other people, or even kids, were
not tempted to tear the rocks down or interfere with the
towers in some manner. The religious and calming atmosphere
seems to inspire the respect of people who go there
in search of some relief or just plain fun.
Now, it may be easy to see groups of smaller rock stacks
at most Korean temples, but here at Wibongsa they are
larger, set against the backdrop of lush evergreens and
rocky hills, and sometimes balanced precariously over
small chasms of nothing. Among the rock towers it is
easy to spot different kinds of Buddha statues that vary
in size and colors, from decaying wood to glittering plastic.
If you are a little imaginative, it’s not hard to think
of the Buddha statues as actual people interacting with
the towers around, being in awe of people’s work with
the rocks or just focusing in very deep meditation. Some
of them even resemble small kids’ miniatures with funny
and unusual poses, which add an air of playfulness to the
scenery around.
Aside from the temple and accompanying fortress wall,
if you feel like taking some time off to refresh yourself,
Wibong Waterfall also flows nearby. The area is serviced
by public buses from Jeonju, particularly Bus 806, but the
infrequent times make getting there and back a challenge.
Still, whether by bus or car, the majestic sight of any combination
of the Wibong temple, fortress, and waterfall will
help you have a memorable and fulfilling day.
Songgwangsa
While Wibongsa holds a certain coziness to it, Songgwangsa
is a more ample kind of temple, so it might be
wise to plan a quick trip to see both complementary experiences
on the same day. This temple also has a strikingly
long history, with reconstructions recorded as early
as the year 867. Like Wibongsa, it was also destroyed at
many different points in time (perhaps moreso due to its
not-so-fortunate geographic position in the valley, especially
in comparison to Wibongsa). The temple today is a
symbol for the Korean resistance to invasions. In the year
1636, China was trying to take the region, but King Injo
remained strong and stubborn, certain that the attitude and
faith deposited in Buddha would protect not only the region
but the whole nation of Korea.
LEFT: A pyramid of Buddhist
lanterns meets the trees at
Songwang Temple.
RIGHT: A wood-carved
statue welcomes visitors to
the first structure at Songgwangsa,
which houses
uncharacteristic and valued
clay guardian statues.
[Photos by Anjee DiSanto]
16

JEONBUK TOUR
ABOVE: Two examples of the famed statues at
Songgwangsa..
RIGHT: The view approaching O’s Gallery in
Soyang.
[Photos by ANJEE DISANTO]
Construction-wise, the temple has many different buildings,
holding also traditional Buddhist schools that still
work to this date. Extra silence is advised to not disrupt the
daily lives of monks who live, work and pray there. Also,
it’s one of the temples with the most extensive collection
of statues in the region of North Jeolla province. Inside
many of the buildings, the statues are not only numerous
but also gorgeous. The warriors and heavenly kings near
the entrance gate are especially meaningful: they are the
oldest such clay statues in the whole of South Korea. The
statues, who act like protectors for visitors and the monks
themselves, are usually made of wood, which guarantees
a longer life expectancy for them, but are just not as pretty
as the ones here. The clay statues in Songgwangsa have a
certain sense of depth of field, and it’s lucky that there is
actually no netting or barriers blocking their view (another
thing that differs from other temples in Korea). It goes
without saying that you should not touch the statues, but,
instead, you should just take the chance to actually see
closer, and in more detail, what makes Korean Buddhist
statues so special.
The main Buddha statue present in the temple is not
only a symbol of the resistance stated above but also actually
contains special Buddhist writings inside, wishing for
the safe return of the two princes who had been kidnapped
during the Chinese invasion. The statue is considered one
of the most well-kept and important in the country.
You might have heard before that Jeollabukdo is the
home of arts in Korea. Songgwangsa is a strong argument
for that. One of the main shrines contains some of the
most beautiful ceiling panels present in Buddhist temples.
They are really colorful and, instead of following certain
types of patterns (like is common to most temples), the
panel served as an homage to artists and entertainers that
where influential at the time of construction. It portrays
the work of singers and dancers who were mesmerized
by Buddha’s teachings and it was put together by not only
monks, but also artists, acting like a collective registry of
that era.
These days, Songgwangsa is also a Temple Stay location,
and its rural, streamside position makes it ideal for
meditation and retreat. For more information, visit their
website at www.songgwangsa.or.kr [Korean only].
O’s Gallery
In the heart of the Soyang countryside and between a chain
of mountains and a reservoir lies a very classy and unique
cafe experience. O’s Gallery, as the name states, is a gallery
for local influential artists, but, above it all, it’s the perfect
place to balance your temple trip with good coffee or drinks
plus some relaxing enjoyment of some of the best things nature
and men have created. O’s Gallery is the popular original
in a trio of cultural cafes. Along with O’s Square in Jeonju
and O’s Culture Café in Samnye, this architecturally stunning
café spot brews up more than just coffee.
On the way to the entrance, the building really does seem
like a high-end gallery or a museum, combining tendencies
of concrete and rough wood with a neat and simple
garden. If you choose to sit down outside, the scenario of
mountains and reservoir will act as a great backdrop to the
simplest of things happening around: kids playing in the
big field in front of the building, young couples plotting
out the next steps of their trips, families together laughing
about something incredibly relevant and funny for them.
This can be a place for you to watch life around.
If you choose to sit inside, you might be surprised by the
things to see, even if you are well accustomed with what
Korea has to offer in terms of cafe atmosphere. There is
an actual area for different types of artists to expose their
artistry but mostly any place you choose to stay for a while
will have some spin on artistic expression: paintings are
scattered all over the place and, even when they are not, a
pleasant view is just outside the window, framing a sweet
conversation with a loved one, a friend, or family.
The prices may not be the cheapest, but the whole experience
is absolutely worth it. Be sure to try the special
artisan breads that on offer there (there is a recipe of chocolate-orange
bread that promises to leave a memory for the
future). The loaves, unlike the beverages, are not steeply
priced (around 8,000 won) and you wouldn’t taste anything
like them anywhere else. Be sure to grab any of the special
teas or coffee drinks to accompany, or, if you are like me,
you can settle for a beer to go along with the bread.
To enjoy all these Soyang attractions you can either
utilize the convenience of a car and have a pleasant ride
through clean-aired nature or find Bus 806 in Jeonju,
which goes past many major stops and won’t cost much
at all. These are just a few of the attractions in an area
that is finally realizing its own beauty and drawing in the
tourist population it deserves. While the weather stays
warm and the summer rain washes the air clear, now is the
perfect time to visit.
18
Jeonbuk Life 19

LOCAL FOOD
It may sound hard to suggest a dish that combines tofu, a
central component of the vegetarian world, with stewed
meat, but my challenge is to try it because it might certainly
prove worth it for you. Hwashim sundubu jjigae combines
sundubu (soft tofu), ground meat or seafood, gochujang paste,
and various kinds of spices in a delicious and fulfilling soup.
The “sundubu jigae town,” in the Hwashim area of Wanju, was
responsible for perfecting this already very promising and loved
dish.
Now, tofu is far from being a strange element in Korean food.
It’s present in side dishes, usually in its white or brown glory,
but it’s also commonly added to soup recipes. What makes sundubu
jjigae special is the fact that the tofu present in it is not
pressed, so the water that usually is drained out actually stays
inside, making the tofu moist, soft, and more prone to blend with
the other elements of the stew.
Ideally, a trip to Hwashim, part of Wanju’s Soyang district,
would bring you to the original incarnation of the Hwashim Sundubu
restaurant, part of a quaint sunbudu village along the road
toward Tapsa and Jinan. However, a sister Hwashim Sundubu
in Junghwasandong, not far from downtown Jeonju, is a viable
alternative to try the stew because it holds the tradition along
with ingredients brought directly from the same region where
the dish originated. The same is true for branches in Iksan and
Samnye. While some of these branches perhaps won’t provide
a cozy countryside atmosphere like the original (and won’t bring
you the pleasure of the trip outside of urban limits), any location
most certainly will convince you with the taste of the dish itself.
The tofu offerings from Hwashim and from the sister restaurants
vary slightly, with the tofu stew containing ground beef in
some spots but shellfish, shrimp, or even mushrooms at others.
You could add to the meal a tofu pajeon (Korean pancake with
vegetables) or perhaps dotorimuk, a locally popular brown acorn
jelly slathered in soy sauce. While the latter requires a fine use
of chopsticks to transport to your mouth, its earthy flavor and
unique texture are a great accompaniment to the spice of the base
sundubu jjigae dish. No matter your side dish choices, everything
won’t cost you more than 15,000 won if you are alone and even
less if you are enjoying your time with good people. Yes, it’s one
more of those Korean experiences that incentivizes sharing (in
fact, some branches of Hwashim offer sets mostly for groups of
four), so share this with others and taste sundubu jjigae, be it in
the countryside or conveniently close to home in an affordable
and good restaurant. Of course, as dessert, don’t miss the chance
to taste tofu ice cream, drinks, or especially the Hwashim tofu
donuts. The donuts in particular are a hit with costumers and are
constantly being served up fresh in batches of 3 to eat in or to go.
If you prefer going to the source for the true, raw experience
of sundubu jjigae, you can always go to the town of Hwashim
to taste the dish in all its glory. One way is to take the special
bus to Tapsa temple that passes by Jeonju’s train station; if you
know the minimal Korean to ask the driver, he can easily drop
you in the “sundubu village.” Otherwise, go to one of the sister
restaurants or use private transportation with someone who already
knows the surroundings, ensuring yourself a delicious and
frustration-free trip.
- By FELIPE FIRMINO GOMES
By FELIPE FIRMINO GOMES
Jeonbuk Life Contributing Writer
Cham bungeojim is a dish born in Hwasan, in Wanju,
and it’s one of the most characteristic dishes in
that area. It’s composed of freshwater fish (typically
carp, usually served inside a type of metal pan), leafy vegetables
(similar to spicier types of kimchi) and several types of
side dishes (radish leaf and acorn tofu are common accompaniments).
The presentation itself is certainly something to behold. The
fish is big (around 30 centimeters usually) and the spices used
on the outside, combined with the broth inside the pan, make for
a very visual experience. At this point, with your food staring
back at you, you will probably think to yourself, “This might be
a bigger challenge than I was anticipating,” but this is also part
of the package. The fish is kept mostly intact so you can take
your time enjoying all its parts in whichever order you prefer.
The fish itself is very flavorful and unique. There is something
special about the way it is salted: radish leaves are added
to it to accentuate the features (and you can also eat those
leaves, if you don’t mind the fact that they will be also drenched
in heavy spices). If you like to savor the different parts of any
fish, prepare to be surprised even then. It wouldn’t be hard to
find clumps of small fish eggs inside at least one of the usually
two fish served in the portion. It certainly adds an unexpected
element, and a type of flavor and texture that will leave you
wondering about how it was prepared. The fish is loaded with
spices and condiments that act differently in each part of the
fish: the more tender parts tend to suck in more of those, which
grants a stronger and more pronounced flavor.
The dish will cost you around 15,000 won for a serving that
is really plentiful for two people. Personally, I recommend it
as a dinner dish accompanied by makgeolli or soju. And save
some space in your stomach for a treat in the end. It’s normal
for a restaurant to cap off the experience by preparing you some
nurungji, or scorched rice drink, a very old Korean recipe that
consists basically of adding hot water to the remaining rice inside
a pan. After a while, the rice gets a moist consistency, very
pleasant after what can be considered a quite substantial meal.
This dish was created in the same county where the sundubu
jjigae formula was perfected (Wanju), and it would be safe to
assume all the ingredients to not only be very natural in their
composition, but also come from local crops. Even though it
might be a little hard to get to Hwasan, the small town where
the dish comes from, local options can be found for very decent
prices. In the Jeonju neighborhood of Ajungli, very close
to the now-defunct Ajungli train station, a very handy alternative
is present. The Jeonju restaurant – very plainly named
Hwasan Cham Bungeochim, offers a very similar experience
to the source. The tradition of ingredients, preparation method
and serving are kept close to what they are in Hwasan, near
the Gyeongcheon Reservoir, where many restaurants offering
the original dish lie. Still, if you feel like adventuring, three of
the most famous and original cham bungeojim experiences can
be found around the reservoir in Hwasan: Hwasan Shikdang,
Sansujang Garden, and Yaksu Garden are three representative
restaurants. And keep in mind -- It is said that this dish is best
experienced with scenery as a side dish, so taking a trip to eat it
at the reservoir in Hwasan is definitely preferred.
20 Jeonbuk Life 21

ARTS
22
Korean
Crafting,
Canadian
Flare
With Jeonju serving as the clear center for hanji paper culture,
we can easily see traditional paper crafts in a variety of designs
all around the region. Among their many similarities, we can
usually be sure of one thing about these crafts – they’ve been made by skilled
local craftspeople.
However, along with Korea globalizing itself, another trend is emerging: a
wide variety of foreign artists are stepping in to bring their own spin to Korean
culture and crafts. Such is the case of Natalie Thibault, the mind behind Hanji
Naty, whose passion for hanji has led her to crafting, selling, and displaying
her uniquely themed hanji pieces in this region and beyond.
Thibault, a native of Eastern Canada who first touched town in Korea in
2004, is now in her second year as an assistant professor at Wonkwang University
in Iksan. Korea has offered a chance for her and her American husband
to live together, abroad, without the confining visa restrictions one might
encounter in other nations. Iksan has also been a place for her to nurture her
cultural and artistic interests, which, she says, have always been part of her
upbringing.
In terms of hanji specifically, Thibault discovered the art very early in her
Korean experience. She describes being fascinated by the colors of paper and
crafts she could see in the shops. But when inquiring about trying it, she was
often told that it was mostly “for kids.”
With the idea always on her mind, in 2011, Thibault found an artist who
would mentor her in the many way of working with hanji.
“I went to the workshop the next week and I spent the whole Saturday with
her,” Thibault explained. “She showed me the basic techniques, but she never
imposed anything on to me. … The reason why I feel so confident in what I do
is that the teacher never made me feel like I was breaking any rules.”
As a foreign hanji artist, though, Thibault’s work necessarily does a bit of
rule-breaking, but with stunning results. For one thing, traditional designs
frequently use obangsaek, the five traditional Korean colors linked to the elements,
but she breaks with this convention. She also abandons the typical
traditional choice of symmetry or mirroring.
“Hanji is a craft that is very deeply rooted in tradition,” Thibault notes,
“and I know that I’m breaking many rules. I’m not doing it
with a rebellious approach, though. To me, the material is more
important than the tradition that goes with it.”
Through the process of developing her skill, Thibault first
learned how to cut designs, starting in a more basic way with
pre-cut pieces. After that, she began innovating and “just ran
with it,” experimenting and trying things sans formal training.
This is, in fact, what makes her work so striking. For her, it’s all
about the paper itself, and anything you do with it is fair game.
“Hanji is one of the very few materials upon which the craft
is built by the material itself,” she explains. “People who knit or
crochet can work with different kinds of materials, but for hanji
artists, the material dictates the craft itself.”
There have been a range of responses to a foreigner doing
hanji craftwork, Thibault says, but they have tended toward
surprise or disbelief. She even had to post pictures on the walls
of her first festival booth in Korea so that visitors could see that
she was indeed the artist.
As for the artwork itself, the subject matter of Thibault’s work
varies, but she does have preferred motifs. Animals, dragons, insects,
and anything “curvy” can qualify under those preferences,
as well as motifs coming from Buddhist temples and Buddhist
culture, like lotus flowers and cherry blossoms. She also hopes
to learn more hanja, the Chinese characters which frequently appear
in traditional designs, to incorporate them in her designs.
Thibault prefers to focus on art that is also useful and practical.
She rarely works on decorative items anymore, but rather focuses
on jewelry, coasters, or whatever we might use every day.
“I like when we can enjoy things in other ways than just looking
at them,” she says.
The craft site Etsy is where her work is purchased, though she
also does attend some festivals and fairs. After about three years
of part-time operation, she is approaching 175 Etsy sales. It can
be profitable and a great way to share her work, she says, but it’s
also challenging to reach customers.
“If you don’t know what hanji is, you won’t search for it,” she
explains.
Thibault tries to find shortcuts or links that would bring interested
people to the idea of hanji and to her, she says, “kind of
like a giant mind map.”
“Many people searching for Korean culture end up on my
blog anyway,” she observed. “Acting as kind of a gateway to
Korean culture for visitors and expats – I think that’s my role.”
For those who want to give hanji craft a try, Thibault has a few
tips. While there are community courses available, they tend to
be harder to get into if one doesn’t speak the language, and most
are geared toward children. Instead, she recommends picking
up one of the many hanji kits that are available in stationery
or craft stores in Korea. While these involve putting together
a small box or pencil case and come with pre-cut paper, they
are “less intimidating” and can be a gateway into experimenting
with one’s own designs and understanding steps in the process.
For those interested in hanji crafting or in perusing Thibault’s
colorful collection, visit her website at www.hanjinaty.com and
keep an eye out for her at craft fairs and hanji events around the
region and the peninsula.
-By ANJEE DISANTO
ABOVE RIGHT: The artist with one of her more
intricate pieces.
LEFT, FAR LEFT: Some of Thibault’s crafts for sale.
[Photos by ANJEE DISANTO]
Jeonbuk Life 23

GLOBAL JEONBUK
By RENEE McMILLAN
Jeonbuk Life Contributing Writer
A
mere five minute walk from the Jeongeup bus
station will bring you to Alsamad Restaurant and
Mart. Alsamad specializes in Middle Eastern Halal
food, and was established two years ago by Mr. Suleman
Baloch. Baloch, a native of Pakistan, has lived in South Korea
for twenty-seven years. The decision to open the restaurant
and mart came in response to the growing number of
Muslim foreigners working in the local factories. Jeongeup
has a large Muslim community, with residents from India,
Pakistan, Bangladesh, Uzbekistan, and Russia. Many people
reached out to Baloch because they missed their native
foods and wanted an alternative to Korean food in their new
hometown.
Alsamad started as primarily takeaway for the local factory
workers. The workers could drink milk tea while waiting
for their orders to be prepared before returning to work.
Due to the nature of its beginnings, Alsamad is a small shop
and restaurant. There is only one long table that seats ten to
twelve people. One wall is lined with racks of traditional
Middle Eastern spices and foods. Here, one can find curries,
korma, large bags of atta, a wide selection of beans and lentils,
and dates.
The best part of visiting Alsamad is without a doubt the
food. Alsamad has a menu that caters to many dietary needs
and tastes, and includes dishes with beef, chicken, lamb, or
beans. We sampled several dishes, and were incredibly happy
with the results. We started with kebabs that were tender
and juicy. Baloch prepared our food himself, while his friend
sat and chatted with us about the food and Alsamad’s history.
For our next course, we were given a large bowl of
fry gosht. Gosht is a savory, curried stew with potatoes
and meat, in this case lamb, which is a traditional dish
of Pakistan and Northern India. This was accompanied
with a plate of onions and tomatoes, as well as roti bread
to wrap the food in. Already feeling stuffed and satisfied,
we were then each given a small plate of biryani, a
spicy dish of chicken and rice mixed with red peppers.
For dessert, Baloch provided milk tea, and a plate of
sweet and delicious dates. We really enjoyed the food,
especially the gosht, and found that each course offered
a completely different flavor and blend of spices. With
very reasonable pricing, Alsamad is a lovely and unexpected
departure from the food we routinely eat.
Another notable characteristic of Alsamad is the
friendliness of Mr. Baloch and the feeling of community
that surrounds the shop. We met a few native teachers
who were on their way to another event but stopped in to
say hello. Baloch introduced them as his friends, and as
they talked about current happenings in Jeongeup, one
person took the time to explain how popular Alsamad
has become among the native teacher population and
how kind Baloch is to his customers and neighbors.
In fact, the shop has become so popular among the
foreign community that Baloch is looking to expand to
a larger, more modern location within the next month
or two. Due to its beginnings as a takeaway food shop,
Alsamad is currently located in a small, traditional Korean-style
shop. Baloch hopes to find a space that will
cater to the needs of his growing clientele, as well as
provide the ambiance that Alsamad and its food so richly
deserve.
For now, you can find Alsamad Restaurant and Mart
at 70-1 Jungang- ro, Jeongeup-si. It is located between
the Jeongeup bus station and IBK Bank. You may also
call 063-536-0318. Mr. Baloch will be happy to meet
you by the bus station and show you the way to his shop.
Korean readers need not fear as Mr. Baloch speaks fluent
Korean -- his wife is Korean as well. They run the
shop together, and look forward to introducing you to
their food.
FROM TOP: Alsamad’s biryani, kebabs, and fry
gosht. [Photos by RENEE McMILLAN]
24
Jeonbuk Life 25

GLOBAL JEONBUK
By SUZANNE SCHNEIDER
Jeonbuk Life Contributing Writer
Nobody can accuse Thoko Langman of being unambitious.
Since establishing Taryn Delish last September she has
been pumping out traditional South African-style fare by
the oven full. Her desire to capture the meal-sharing experience collided
with her passion for cooking—the result was a menu of hearty meat
& vegetarian pies and Malva pudding that can be ordered online and
enjoyed at home, or on the go.
Based in Iksan, South Korea Taryn Delish specializes
in South African-style pies and pudding. At Taryn Delish,
every customer is treated like family. Orders can be placed
via email or Kakao Talk. Menu items are prepared to order
and shipped frozen, insuring freshness that sings “homemade.”
The pies and pudding are carefully packaged for
shipping in order to guarantee they arrive in mint condition.
Mini pies are perfect for a simple meal after work. Just pop
the pie in your oven or microwave and you can enjoy a home
cooked meal in minutes. The regular pies are great for parties
and potlatches/potlucks. Whether you want to enjoy some
mini-pies on movie night or host a dinner party, Taryn Delish
brings home cooking to your table.
Taryn Delish currently serves seven pie varieties, including
both meat and vegetarian options. Beef pepper steak,
chicken and mushroom, and vegetarian spinach & feta are
among the most popular pies. The beef pepper steak packs
a punch of robust pepper and savory steak. The crust is light
and flaky and perfectly complements the zesty filling. Those
with a sweet tooth should try the Malva pudding with custard.
Malva pudding is a classic, baked, South African dessert.
This sweet pudding of Cape Dutch origin has a spongy
caramelized texture and contains apricot jam and vinegar.
It is best served hot with a cream sauce and custard or ice
cream. Taryn Delish prepares their Malva pudding with a
hint of vanilla, making it the perfect ending to any hearty
feast.
Small business owners face a myriad of unique challenges
when operating a company outside of their home country.
Language and cultural barriers could potentially put some
out of business. When asked about the challenges of being a
small business owner in South Korea, Langman modestly replied,
“My experience hasn’t always been an easy ride; there
are always challenges along the way. The language barrier
can be a bit of a pain, but I’ve learned that patience goes a
LEFT: Taryn Delish’s Pork pepper steak mini-pies.
ABOVE: Traditional Malva pudding with custard.
BOTTOM: An uncooked mini-pie.
[Photos by MARLI JANSE VAN VUUREN]
long way in any situation. And also, there is usually a simple
solution to any problem or issue. All it takes is changing
the way you view the problem”. With that “can-do” attitude,
patience, and a passion for food…we can expect big things
from Taryn Delish.
The future looks bright for this young entrepreneur who
hopes to create a brand of organic, all natural “do it yourself”
pie sets allowing customers to assemble pies at home
from scratch. The introduction of DIY pies will revolutionize
Taryn Delish and transform even the least talented cook
into a pie-making master.
To view the current menu or place an order, visit Taryn
Delish’s website at www.taryndelish.com.
26
Jeonbuk Life 27

WORLDVIEW
By DAVID VAN MINNEN
Jeonbuk Life Co-Editor
One of the most popular television series these
days is Game of Thrones. What is the appeal?
Is it the battles, the styles, the intrigue, the
dragons, the magic, the religious struggles? Arguably,
one of the most appealing aspects of that series is the
portrayal of life in an olden age. The viewer wonders,
“How could they live like that?” The fact is, they did.
Most of humanity did, right up until merely a microchip
ago. Most of today’s world still does live like that.
In this article, we will take a glimpse at Korean Shamanism.
In the great global game of thrones, it fits right
in.
Any camp of anthropology will agree that humans are
seekers. We want to know, be reassured, guided, and we
want to believe. If we think technological advancement
will eradicate this basic human urge, it is just another
arrogant claim echoing in Plato’s cave. It would do us
well to look at Korean Shamanism with such humility.
Shamanism is not a unified belief system. Shamanism
compares well to language dialects. Every region worldwide
developed its own linguistic dialect. Who taught
language? Who influenced the language, thinking, and
beliefs of the people? Worldwide, the answer is always
the same: the local sage, seer, crone, priest, or healer has
wielded tremendous influence on our thinking.
Door to door I went, asking the wrong question:
are you a ‘mudang?’ They kept saying no, and dismissing
me. No appointment. No foreigners. “You
don’t want my money?” I paced up and down the
street--famous for fortune tellers--knocking at each
place that had the tall bamboo pole with the red
and white ribbons fluttering at their tops. “It’s for
the province’s English magazine,” my Korean note
explained. “I will write about my experience and
not criticize you—promise.”
The hot sun beat down as I trudged along, sweating,
seeking out a seer.
In Jeollabukdo, Korea, the word “shaman” is a bit misleading,
particularly the ‘man’ part. It should be “shawoman,”
as the vast majority are women. People go to them
for blessings, curses, and forecasts. Formally, the practitioners
are called Muists. Most use shaking bells, candles,
mini-shrines, and ringing gongs.
There seem to be many similarities between Korean shamanism
and the old ways of the Native Americans. Not
much sacrifice or blood, lots of trancelike dancing, drums,
fire. Contacting good or bad spirits is pretty much always
included in a ritual.
Finally, a lady with a kind face, who had been
watching me fail said, “Come on in.” She had
everything I was looking for: a cool shady room
with candles burning on a shrine, and some bells
and gongs on the floor. Her opening comment was
a shocker. “That motorcycle you drove here will go
down soon, on a wet road. I suggest you get rid
of it. If you must drive one, get a red one.” My
one eyebrow went up, like Dr. Spock. Here we go, I
thought. Then she said, “I’m not going to ring that
cymbal or dance around shaking bells, that just attracts
the attention of lower spirits, and works well
for my older clients who expect that sort of thing.
You won’t go for it anyway.”
Many Koreans go to see a shaman before a wedding,
starting a new business, or the dreaded university entrance
exams. If they attend church or are Buddhist, they keep it
LEFT: Typically, flags tied on bamboo poles mark
the humble houses of shamans. ABOVE: The colorful
front to a jeomjib, where a variety of services
are offered including saju (fortune telling).
[Photos by ANJEE DISANTO]
on the down-low. It’s a bit like the horoscopes in the newspaper
for many Westerners: “I shouldn’t, or I don’t believe
it, really, but . . . just a peek.” But many are much more
involved than an offhand perusal of a newspaper column.
There is one particular ritual that really had an impact
on me, because I saw it in my first week in Korea, back in
2004. My boss had just bought a new BMW, and it was sitting
in the front parking lot of his big English academy. On
the hood of the car was a pig’s head, perched upright, with
blood still trickling from the neck. In the pig’s mouth were
28
Jeonbuk Life 29

WORLDVIEW
what looked at first glance like a row of about 10 cigarettes,
fanning out all around the rictus grin. Upon closer
inspection, I realized that they were rolled up 10,000
won bills (the highest paper money here at the time). My
boss explained that this was a ritual to give blessing to
the car—and his business. His friends had put the bills
in the pig’s lips and shared a shot of soju with him each
time. He invited me to come along while he finished off
the thing by throwing the pig’s head in a nearby lake. I
politely passed, a bit taken aback by the scene, and at the
prospect of getting into his car.
She explained the shrine, the candles, the gorgeous
calligraphy tapestries that looked like they
were written in ancient Valyrian . . . then turned
our attention to the opposite wall: a bookshelf.
“My strength is astrology,” she said. I was surprised,
because it didn’t come up that much in my
research. She wanted my birthdate, and even the
time of day if I could provide it. She used a large
book to find the positions of the planets the day I
was born.
Korean Shamanism, or Muism, has had a long and
hard history. Suppressed and even persecuted by Buddhists
in the 6th century, it was called “backward” by the
Confucians since the 15th century. Then Japan occupied,
and tried to replace it with Shintoism. Then protestant
missionaries extensively used media to turn the people
away from “worship of gods.” Then came dictator Park
Chung-hee, using the words of missionaries, but not the
spirit. He wanted to cleanse the country for economic
growth. Many seers were dragged into the street to watch
their homes go up in flames. (This is the same spirit that
later cleansed the street urchins into concentration camps
ahead of the 88 Olymics).
Only recently have we become aware that culture and
tourism are key to economic growth. Now, shamanism is
celebrated in Korea as a source of folk culture, albeit with
the value placed on colorful ceremonies, glossy photos,
and tourists’ currency.
Then she pegged me—from my birthday alone,
she described my personality, (which isn’t very
typical), my likes, dislikes, strengths, weaknesses…
I mean she nailed it, with truly unnerving accuracy. I found myself wondering if
she had done research on me, but she couldn’t have had time. She couldn’t pull it out
of me, because of the communication barrier and my attempted poker-face. Then she
asked for my wife’s birthday... and said things about our relationship that nobody knew.
Some of it I hadn’t even considered, until I heard it. It was pretty amazing. She was
pastoral, helpful, kind... did I mention unnerving?
Jeollabuk-do’s economic growth is very closely linked with culture, tourism, and the celebration
of the old ways. Korea’s traditional culture is so colorful largely because of deep shamanistic
roots. Whatever value you place on the unseen, the “old gods” are very present in Korea, wielding
a powerful influence, yesterday, today, and tomorrow.
LEFT (top): A modern-day mudang checks the charts to determine fortune.
LEFT (middle): A shamanistic altar. The top shelf, above the offerings, is
said to be left vacant for spirits of the dead. LEFT (bottom): Prayer beads
are one of the many symbols that tend to overlap between Buddhism and
shamanism. ABOVE: Bujeok, blessings written in an ancient language and
meant to be hung above doors for protection.
[Photos by ANJEE DISANTO]
30 Jeonbuk Life 31

LOCAL VOICES
Finding “Home”
Love at First Sight
By SWARNALEE DUTTA
By FELIPE GOMES
ome is where the heart is,”, as they say. Where is
“Hyour heart right now?
I usually say that my Korean story started back in 2011,
when I had the chance to meet many Korean people in Vancouver,
Canada. Not only had I met great people, but I had
taken a glimpse at a culture so exquisite and interesting to
me that it prompted me to come the very next year, for the
first time. To organize that first trip, I remember relying on
pure instinct to tell me where I should or shouldn’t go, and
I was lucky, or blessed enough, for finding the first signs of
the next step of the journey exactly in the places I chose to
travel to. As it may have happened to many people who are
reading these lines, I fell in love with the country.
As much as people, culture, and cuisine were always welcoming
(God! What a surprise with food, for someone who
only knew about Japanese food in Asia by then), the challenges
were ever-present as well. Not everyone sees difficulty
to communicate as an opportunity to create something
new, but I knew I needed time to prepare the terrain properly
if I wanted this place to hold any of my future.
Even though we may think a house needs walls and a
ceiling to be actually called a house, I had nothing until I
reached a proper foundation. There is an abyss of doubts
between being a tourist and deciding to live in any country in
which you were not born. A leap of faith would be pointless
without a proper root to hold me after it. It was necessary to
reach out to people for help and guidance. The classic “kindness
from strangers” was not only expected from me -- it
was sought for and highly regarded when it came.
Every new person, new place, or new thing that comes to
your life tends to be just a sign of previous things which you
overcame (or didn’t). I believe that if you face your challenges
eye-to-eye, new challenges will come, keeping it all fresh.
I knew I was facing a lot of fresh obstacles, while following
my own pace, but it might have been easy for some people
to look at my life and think that I wasn’t really reaching
anything, that I was just grasping for something superficial.
But I had spent time and patience until I finally found that
root. A reason. I had found it. I had found them. People to
call friends, neighbors to call family, a place to call my own.
Despite the fact that sometimes it felt very dark and all I had
to light up my next steps was my optimism.
The size of the house I have managed to build in my visits
to Korea is as elastic as my concepts of trust, faith, and joy.
They all grew exponentially because of my experience in
Jeonju. I may be a tourist in other countries (even in mine
now) and also in other cities in Korea, but here I where I
have my home.
My heart now lies in Jeonju, where it built a house with
reflections of the knowledge that came before it, but, most
importantly, with all the experience and wisdom achieved
right here, in this spot.
Where is your heart right now? I hope you have found a
place for it, and if you haven’t, I wish that you have started
to build your own. Whatever your concept of home is, wherever
you feel like it.
Jeonbuk to me is a place I fell in love with at first sight. It
is that special place where I entered the most adventurous
phase of my life. My son was born here.
As a researcher in the National Institute of Agricultural Sciences,
Rural Development Administration (RDA) in Wanju, I will
be completing two years in Jeonju very soon. The up-to-date
infrastructure in RDA, the cutting edge ongoing research and
the comfortable working environment make me a competitive,
happy researcher. But Jeonbuk has given much more than that.
Growing up with children is an awesome experience anywhere.
But we, as parents, are fortunate to have lovely neighbours
and friends who make this journey more beautiful with
their presence and care. There is a lovely Korean family, our
next-door neighbours, whom we absolutely adore. My son loves
them and they dote on him. Any help we need and they are a
phone call away.
The experience I have with other moms when out with my
baby is awesome. We do not speak words, but can understand
each other anyway. Sign language helps, but overall it
is mother’s instinct that works. Some people I met for just a
moment and will never meet again, but those memories are so
heart-warming.
An expat encounters various difficulties in a foreign land with
an unfamiliar language. But I love the way people try to help
you out. Hospitality shown by locals toward the expats is commendable,
be it the doctors and staff during my baby’s birth,
colleagues, neighbours and friends, or even some random acts
of kindness by strangers. “Service” is a common term in shops,
but I find “acts of service” is more common among the people.
A cherry on the cake is the expat community here, so strongly
bonded that they never disappoint when you reach out to them.
The inclusive nature irrespective of nationality or ethnicity is
charming, and every time I meet a fellow expat, I gain a friend.
The many ways expats contribute toward the betterment of the
society other than their regular jobs is praiseworthy. People are
engaged in social services, they generate funds when needed
to help meet crisis, encourage hobbies like crafts, yoga, learning
foreign language or reading and writing. Expats run groups
meet regularly and offer an opportunity to pursue your interest.
They are truly making the town a better place to live.
The co-existence of traditional Jeonju with its rich heritage of
culture along with the newly developed modern city makes it
a unique place to live. The various festivals famous in this area
are very interesting and we try our best not to miss them. We
are looking forward to having some fabulous time this year, too,
especially with our son. I think it is a very wonderful place for
our son to grow up because of the prevalent hybrid culture. Tradition
and modernism have a very fine way of mingling here.
Both keeping to their boundaries, yet complementing each other
to complete the beauty of the city.
A developing city, Jeonju has preserved the countryside by
building parks and sites popular for outdoor recreation. The
old-world charm and vintage surroundings are so refreshing.
The calm and peaceful environment together with its picturesque
beauty provides a delightful haven if you wish to go for
a soul search. A visit to the surrounding mountains, getaway to
the not-so-far beaches, temple stay tour, or just a simple walk
by the river can make your spirits soar high. No wonder this city
was once considered the spiritual capital.
A lover of nature, I am enchanted by the beauty this city dons
with each changing season. The delightful cherry blossoms
along with the wild flowers of spring, the pleasant lush green
leaves of summer, the rainbow of yellows and scarlets during
fall, and the serene pearly white winter. If anything, witnessing
these awesome transitions has worked like a rejuvenating
elixir for me and my family. Every moment of our life here is
engraved in our hearts as gift to treasure forever. Thank you
Jeonju!
32
Jeonbuk Life 33

LOCAL VOICES
A Happy Accident
By SORCHA RATTIGAN
Defining “Home”
By LILIANA T.
My move to Jeonju was a happy accident. Plans to
teach at a public school in Busan were dashed
and divided with delayed paperwork and a lack
of on-the-ball recruiting. You know…the usual. By then, I
had taught in Suwon for a year and fancied a change. While
teaching in Suwon, I began a yoga course in Seoul. Through
yoga, I met Shelley—a rare gem with a beautiful soul—the
type of instructor that pushes students to discover themselves.
Furthermore, she connected me with Brighton, a language
school which has been one of the best opportunities
I’ve ever had. I’m forever grateful for Shelley’s Bhoga Yoga
community in Jeonju. “Bhoga” is Sanskrit for “fun” and it is
appropriately descriptive of these people coming together to
practice vivaciously, hearts wide open and fearless. A truly
nourishing environment.
My social life in Suwon was often based around drinking,
so it was satisfying to meet people and feel a genuine
connection instead of alcohol fueled enjoyment. Don’t get
me wrong – I enjoy a local bar (or keeping it classy with
plastic furniture outside a store) but I need more, and Jeonju
provides. There are always events happening and I am able
to nurture my interests and talents through yoga, writing,
volunteering, etc.
Jeonju has a handful of orphanages. Fortunately, the expat
communities are generous with both investments of
their time and money into them. I am happy to work with
Ashley, one of the members of Neighborly Neighbourly, an
expat volunteer group whose goal is to arrange visits and
fundraise for the local orphanages. She happily invited me
along when I expressed interest in giving something back
to Korea, which has unknowingly helped me through some
challenging times. Nevertheless, I have encountered some
of the kindest people during my career here so it feels right
to volunteer something back. My many occasions of “Kindness
from Koreans” include: the gent who gave me a room
for free in Geumdo upon discovering camping was a no-go;
the couple who adopted me in Hongdo and Hueksando (allowing
me to discover so much more than I would have);
and the ajumma taking my hand as I hiked last weekend and
leading me to a group of “mountain friends” who insisted
on sharing their spread of food and (naturally) soju, to name
a few. I have also received amity from fellow foreigners:
the welcoming owner of Alsamad restaurant in Jeongyup,
who proudly introduces people to his family; my dear friend
Kerry who I share my Sunday shenanigans with and who
can tell you everything you need to know about nature (hermaphrodite
flowers are a thing and abundant in Korea…
who knew?). Another treasure I met through yoga: Amiya,
who chooses to move in more ways than one and is the only
person I know who can write an amusing poem inspired by
grilled cheese.
Regarding Neighborly Neighbourly: I was nervous for my
first trip to the orphanage; what should I say? It turns out I
need not have worried: Uno translates. I had a wonderful
time, and the kids even let me win a few hands. Afterward, I
took some of the other volunteers to a jimjilbang, or Korean
spa (I know how to show the “out of towners” a good time)
followed by Tomfoolery, ending with five people squeezed
into my apartment ready to crash. My second experience
volunteering was at the baby orphanage. Time flew and I left
with stickers all over my face, my heart full of love, and my
ovaries kicking (cuteness overload!). I was really pleased
when asked if I would like to be a more formal member of
the group. I am enjoying learning how to schedule visits and
creating engaging fundraising ideas. Actually, we have an
awesome photo competition for budding photographers (or
for anyone like myself, who can’t tell a lens cap from a…
well I don’t know what, actually) -- details will be available
online by the end of June.
Korea has given me so much, and it’s fulfilling to return
the favor.
If you enjoyed my incessant ramblings and—heaven forbid—wish
to read more, head over to my blog: herebedragons1989.wordpress.com,
where you can peruse my adventures
of Korea and beyond.
When I was first told to write what Jeonju meant
to me, I had so many ideas that I wanted to
talk about. I went back and forth trying to pin
down all the beautiful things it was to me, but I was stuck
and couldn’t pick one solid explanation. To me, it was not
just one thing, but a lot of things: it was friendship, family,
fun trips, and crazy nights, but also long boring days and
depressing moments. And that’s when it hit me: all this time
trying to pinpoint one situation to explain it all, and in the
end, what I should have been thinking about was home.
Yes, at last, I had found the perfect word to explain what
it meant to me: home.
Home. You know, that place you always wish to leave, but
once you do, you always want to come back to. That place
where you have people that no matter what will back you
up, even if you are dying in bed and contagious as a walking
germ monster because of a cold. That place where you can
go down to that street where there is that little pizza place
you like so much because it brings a combo of chicken and
pizza at such a low price and excellent quality. That place
where, if you are lazy, you can just go to where the ajumma
is and not even ask, because she already knows what you
like to eat and orders for you... or just buy your food online
and you don’t even have to go out. That place where you
can go from walking to a $20-drive distance to all your favorite
places, or even boring places you see all the time, like
Hanok Village. And yet, when someone new comes around,
you get that childish, giddy excitement feeling of showing
the local sites off to others and find that those same places
have now become fun and interesting again. That place you
have a particular drinking spot or bar that you always go to,
where the waiters know every little crazy thing you have
done. That place where you can text your friends and family
(friends that feel like family) at any time of day and plan a
last-minute “lets hang out” because you all live near enough.
Yes, home: that is what it means to me. Home, where after
a long day at school or at work you want to come back and
just sit back wherever you are and relax. \But how does a
place like this, which is so far away from the place I grew up
(Ecuador), become home so suddenly? Well, it is the communities
you find here, the communities in Jeonju, whether
church or class/lab mates, Korean Language exchange programs,
the Jeonju Knowledge Facebook page, Latin-American
friends, or any other country-based community or
school club. All of them become your baseline from the first
moment you arrive into this city. It is important to be part
of any community since it is the members that welcome
you, befriend you, help you find your way, advise you, and
suggest for you places you can go and eat and experience,
members who always have your back.
Here it is, in these communities, where you find your family
and friends, and it is them with whom you spend most of
your time and waste your money. That is why it is home. I
must admit, though, that even if I always had a feeling of
familiarity towards Jeonju, it was only recently that I truly
understood that this place was home. Recently, my country
suffered a serious earthquake, and, of course, my heart
broke with that familiar helpless feeling. Amazingly, all of
my communities, without thinking twice, pitched in to help,
either by promoting a charity event or donating themselves.
That was the time I knew this place, this city, these communities,
are HOME.
34 Jeonbuk Life 35

FICTION
36
Great people sometimes resonate the kind
of confidence that I truly envy. Mrs. Yoon
was that type of person. She might not
have looked tough, but she resonated the kind of
confidence that made the people around her nervous.
I was definitely one of those people. I was dating her
dearest niece, and getting her approval was vital for
our relationship to last.
As soon as I met her, I knew she was not to be
messed with. She looked at me like I was nothing,
she made me feel so nervous that I avoided eye contact
with her for the entirety of our first meeting. She
even had dominance over her family. She reigned
over this family that I had entered without her permission.
I was a target from the start, and Mrs. Yoon
was not happy that she had met me by surprise.
There were many things of which she disapproved.
She thought I had initially disrespected her
by avoiding eye contact with her. She hated how shy
I seemed. She thought that I would embarrass the
family by simply being with them. She hated the fact
that I had not performed any military service. This
somehow made me less of a man. She also hated that
I could not speak Korean. She regarded my low Korean
skills as a sign that I didn’t care enough about
Song-hi to make enough of an effort. In her opinion,
I was not a good match for her precious niece.
As an attempt to make me leave South Korea, she
got me fired from my English academy job, and even
got me on a blacklist. I had no chance of being able
to stay in Jeonju. I applied to six jobs with no luck.
One hagwon was almost at the point of hiring me
when the director pulled the plug at the last minute.
I was even asked to leave three restaurants. One of
them, which I went to almost every day for kimbap,
yelled out “No, no, no, no, no” as the owner
motioned for me to leave. Thankfully, the third time
it happened, Song-hi was with me. As soon as the
owner explained that he could not serve me due to
management, Song-hi knew her aunt was involved
in my misfortune.
After lots of crying, pleading, and threatening on
Song-hi’s part, Mrs. Yoon finally gave in. Song-hi
threatened to leave the country with me, and that was
A Fiction
Piece by
Micheline
Leger
enough to get a second chance. Mrs. Yoon decided to
keep me as close to her as she could in order to fix
me. She hired me, and I became her personal English
pet.
* * * * * *
Mrs. Yoon’s purpose was to keep ajumma’s busy.
The whole organization was disguised as a way to
entertain and give purpose to ajummas around Jeonju.
No one would ever question that. It was the perfect
disguise. In the morning everyone stayed busy.
There were gardens to be tended and chores to be
done. There were multiple stalls at Nambu Market
and other places around Jeonju that needed ajummas.
Everyone also needed to participate in physical activities
like hiking, swimming, going to the gym, and
even aerobics classes. Everyone did their part, and
they played roles in each other’s happiness. It was
actually a really beautiful way to stop loneliness, but
it was also a front for something else.
After working a year for her, my life had completely
changed. I woke up every morning at 6 in order to
be at work by 7:30. I had to arrive before Mrs. Yoon,
who arrived between 7:40 and 8:30. My job was simple:
I was technically the ajummas’ English teacher. I
had 3 classes every day. At first, only a few attended.
After about 5 weeks, I had classes of about 30. They
seemed to enjoy coming and learning English. Some
of them surprisingly knew a lot of English, but most
started at a very low level. My classes were always
quite entertaining, and it proved that you’re never too
old to learn since they were all above 50 years old. I
taught them the alphabet and eventually taught them
to read and write the basics. Many of them seemed
to like me. They brought me food and loved to use
simple English greetings. I was given kimchi almost
every day.
Apart from my English classes, I had to learn Korean.
After lunch everyday, I met with Mrs. Kim. She
was one of the eldest ones in the organization and
was quite strict. I learned quickly out of fear, since
she hit my fingers with a long wooden stick every
time I made a mistake. It really never took too much
effort to do my homework or study because I had
both Mrs. Kim and Mrs. Yoon to answer to if I wasn’t
learning fast enough.The last thing I did every day
was meet with Mrs. Yoon. She would bring me along
as she was conducting business and would make me
practice what I’d learned with Mrs. Kim. She would
evaluate my progress, but I could never tell what she
was thinking. I didn’t know whether I was doing a
good job or to watch my back for the consequences.
It was one of my toughest years. When it had ended
and another contract was signed, it was clear that
Mrs. Yoon had grown fond of me. She had a little
celebration for me at the office, saying that I had
done a good job that year and that she was now ready
to accept me into her family. I was happy to finally
be in her good graces, but I was ignorant to what her
acceptance entailed.
I soon found myself delivering packages without
any knowledge of their content. I was also receiving
food at home with money hidden in the bottom. I
should have been suspicious, but everything seemed
so easy and there didn’t seem to be any red flags
coming up. I was a completely different person. I
dressed differently, I was confident, and I even became
a better lover. I think my confidence made me
try things that I wouldn’t have tried before. It was
also clear that I needed a good safe to store all the
money coming in.
Alas, all stories must eventually come to an end,
illustration by Bonnie Cunningham
and this one is no different. Song-hi and I got married
two months after I had been accepted into the
family by Mrs. Yoon. I had never been happier. My
mom and dad met everyone, and it was great to see
my family meet my other family.
That night as we were still celebrating, Song-hi
had tears in her eyes and whispered, “I’m so sorry.” I
had no idea what was going on, but before I knew it
I was being handcuffed and brought to the police station
for questioning. The embarrassment and the deception
were unbearable. I was celebrating with my
family and friends and they were all there to witness
my fall. The look in everyone’s eyes as I was dragged
outside was something that I’ll never get over. They
questioned me for days with the story already engraved
in their mind. In their eyes, I was already a
foreign criminal mastermind. Just like the ajummas
organization was a perfect disguise, I was the perfect
pawn. They had used me as a security option, and I
was completely oblivious to the whole thing.
I’m reminded of that day as I eat kimchi, rice and
seaweed soup now with my new friends. My new
family are the brothers that I’ve been introduced to
here in my new home. This new home equipped with
bars was given to me by my wife. I’m trapped with
nowhere to go: only my mind escapes back and forth
through the bars. My mind also plots and plans the
future revenge. I won’t be in here forever... but I have
no doubt I’ll be back.
Jeonbuk Life 37