Srbija - geopoeticki album - engleski - niska rezolucija

PRINCIP PRESS

Serbia
GEO-POETICAL ALBUM
Belgade
2011

Pro logue
WITH OBJECTIVITY
OF A LENS
The book before you could be called an album, testimony, anthology of documents. It
does not want to persuade. It does not propagate, does not impose, does not spin. It
is not a PR, lawyer, blabby advertising agent. Neither is it a tourist reporter, steeped into
phrases and the type of self-termination called routine. Just like on a long and beautiful
old-fashioned journey, when you sit in a train and open curtains on the window, numerous
images will be unraveling in front of you. Watch them calmly and with curiosity, as an
explorer, with your eyes and eyes of those to whom you will be telling about the journey.
Some of these images you will remember right away, the others you will occasionally
retrieve and restore your fine connection, and maybe all of them will merge into one, into
a large mosaic portrait of Serbia that you will carry forever.
We live in the “civilization of images” and all day long we are flooded with images that
should, in accordance with the study, to be exciting. People have reached the polar empire
of ice, into volcano womb, to the ocean bottom, immensity of space. Technique and new
software have made these photographs flawless, dictatorship of advertising is trying to
turn them into a simulation of heaven. And right about that time we realized that this
flood of sensationalistic images mostly leaves us indifferent and empty. We notice them,
but they do not move anything inside us. They are blazed, unlived and unconvincing.
Ste ril e and calculated.
The book before you offers various photographs. In them and through them you will
recognize love, nostalgia and tenderness which, in the absence of more accurate work, we
call poetry. Behind these photographs there is a man, and not the professedly omnipotent
technique. And when you see a sunrise in a remote mountain village, and storm over the
plains, and cross contouring on the dramatic sky, and the first kiss of two of them against
the wall of an old fortress, you should know that someone was really there and recorded
it. These photographs were not made in Photoshop, but in human eye. The camera is only
a recording tool.
Serbia is presented here with objectivity of the lens. This is one possible story about it,
about this noble and misapprehended country. We have divided it into fifteen areas and
started from the North toward the South, from the West to the East. You can use all that
and create your own eight-directional travel word roundup game. Feel free to forget the
signposts we have provided and find your own way. “Watch and measure wherever you
like.” In each area we have tried to really capture its tone, its archetypal image, its temper
and character. To provide, at least in a glare, poetics and spirit of its landscapes, cities,
relics, waters, before all its people, their lives and experience of the world, their customs
and food, views and viewpoints, arts and dedication, their exaltation and silence.
Do not take us at our words.
See it for yourself.
And do not forget the warning of one of the most ill-fortuned princes in world
literature: “It is only shallow people who do not judge by appearances. The true mystery
of the world is the visible, not the invisible.”
PROLOGUE
05

CONTENTS
05
21
35
49
63
77
91
105
06 CONTENTS

133
175
189
203
CONTENTS
07

Serbia
MAP OF AREAS
Bač­ka
Srem
No­vi Sad
Ba­nat
Belgrade
Western
Serbia
Southwest
Serbia
Šu­ma­di­ja and
Sme­de­re­vo
Valley of
the Kings
Bra­ni­če­vo and
Po­mo­ra­vlje
Ra­si­na and
To­pli­ca
Eastern
Serbia
Niš
Ko­so­vo and
Me­to­hi­ja
Southeast
Serbia

SUBOTICA
M. Pijaca
Horgoš
Kanjiža
Krstur
Ban.
Aranđelovo
Riđica
St. Žednik
Rastina
Bajmok
Stanišić
Gakovo
Pačir
St. Moravica
Bezdan
Svetozar
Miletić
Karađorđevo
Čonoplja
Bač.
Bač. Monoštor
Sombor
Telećka Topola
Kljajićevo
Apatin
Prigrevica
Sonta
Salaš
Madaraš
Sivac
Crvenka
Bač. Brestovac
Kruščić
Bač. Palanka
Kula
Vrbas
Lipar
Feketić
E75
M. Iđoš
Papuk Dolina
Bač. Gračac
Bogojevo
Odžaci
Karavukovo
Despotovo
Zmajevo
Vajska
Ratkovo
Parage
Ravno selo
Bač
Tovariševo Bač. Petrovac
Kisač
Bač. Novo
Gajdobra
Selo Mladenovo Obrovac
Čantavir
NOVI
SAD
Beočin
Drom
Tornjoš
Mileševo
Adorjan
Senta
Svetićevo
Bečej
Srbobran
Sirig
Temerin
Žabalj
Ada
Novi Kneževac
Mol
Bač. Petrovo
Selo
Čoka
Čurug
Padej
Bač.Gradište
Crna Bara
Iđoš
Bočar
Mokrin
Novi Bečej
Kumane
Elemir
Kikind
Bašaid
Melenci
Đurđevo
Belo Blato
Šajkaš
Vilovo
E75
Titel
St. Slankamen
20 BAČKA

BAČ KA
noble area in North Serbia, between the Danube and Tisa rivers and the border
A with Hungary. Its history is turbulent, and its temper is mild. Its memory is long,
just like the string of its cities, goods, charms. This is how it was described, in 2007, by
an insipred travel writer: “Sprouted at the bottom of a petered out sea, drained through the
Danube. Vast and fertile plains, an immense area of grains, big rivers, beautiful towns,
grainges, good wine, jolly people.” This is how the wider area that Bačka belongs to was
described in Strategy for Development of Tourism in Serbia (Belgrade, 2006):
“Marked by medieval urban tradition, watercourses and urban centers linked by
the idyllic Pannonia plains. It has autochthon cultural, natural, gastronomic values. Its
symbols are the Danube and Ti sa rivers, Pa lić Lake, cities, edifices... In words of sketchy
characterology it is mentioned as an admirer of wine and food, fan of waters, hospitable,
creative, extrovert, sensual, romantic, prone to exploration...”
Traces of oldest settlements date from the Stone Age (primarily along the Danube
and Ti sa rivers, and the most important ones being in Bo go je vo, Apa ti n, Ads, Sen ts,
Ti te l). Celts, Romans, Huns, Slavs, Ger ma ns and Ava rs are impressed in the layers of
local culture and history... The oldest preserved written account of Bačka town is from
535 AD, when records of Byzantine Emperor Justinian mentioned Bač, since the entire
region was named after it. Apa tin is first mentioned in 1011, Sen ta in 1216, Be čej in 1238,
Te me rin in 1332, Sr bo bran in 1338, Som bor and Su bo ti ca in 1391... According to 2002
census, Bačka has a population of 1,023,000. Majority are Serbs (59 percent), whereas
the second major ethnic group are Hungarians (16 percent), and there are also Slo va ks,
Bu nje vci, Ru syns, Croatians, Ro ma... majority of population lives in No vi Sa d (which
is subject to a separate chapter), officially around 216,000, then in Su bo ti ca (almost
100,000), Som bo r (50,000), Bač ka Pa lanka (30,000), Vr ba s and Be če j (25,000), Sen ta and
Apa ti n (20,000)...
However, numbers are today deceptive and tedious!
Trust your eyes and your curiosity.
If you happen to come here, it is good to learn about old customs, such as “Du žijan
ca” in Subotica, weddings in Kul pi n, wine and harvest festivals, reviving of various
mo ba s (voluntary work), gatherings and dance parties, with a lot of song and dance,
joyfulness, tambura music. An echo of all this, filled with fire, one can also find in good
Bačka taverns.
If you are in Bačka, do not miss to taste kulen, ham, various types of sausages, fried
pork fat, head-cheese, as well as Guinea fowl soup, fish stew, goulash, r in­flaj ž , broiled fish,
turkey, duck, venison... Of course, all of it is stuffed, covered with gravy, very spicy, well
cooked. You cannot leave this place without tasting doboš cake, taške, plum dumplings,
strudel or noodles with poppy seed and walnuts. Mulberry brandy, wine from Pe šča ra and
beer from Apatin or Čelarevo are also not to be missed, according to people from Bačka.
Apart from the cities, also memorable will be excursions to lakes (Pa lić Lake, Lu doško
Lake), granges (Ro kin, Cvet ni, Ka tai, Di da Hor nja kov, Naš...), horse farms (Zob nati
ca, Ka ra đor đe vo). If you get carried away by good company and good mood, feel free
to abandon yourself in bećarac folk songs, as well as romantic songs, especially Russian
or Gipsy. Or stop by the World Tamburica Festival in the village of De ro nje. In Bačka,
everything goes well with tambura. People, earth and sky.
BAČKA
21

City Hall in Su­bo­ti­ca: One of the representative local buildings
built between the end of the 19 th century and World War One, in
the spirit of then dominant secession (along with the Synagogue,
Raichle Palace, Gymnasium, Library)
Bač: Fortress and one of the oldest towns in Voj vo di na. Bačka
was named after this town.
BAČKA
23

The Palić Lake: A fashionable place eight kilometers from Subo
ti ca, often compared with Karlovy Vary and Wiesbaden. It has
a spa center, beautiful English garden, water tower, Ladies Bath,
large terrace, summer house, ho te ls, villas, three beaches, sports
centre, Zoo.
To guitar music: Numerous events and unforgettable encounters
take place on Palić, and since 1992, the Pa lić International Film
Fest iv a l
24 BAČKA

Food and authentic gourmet delicacies: It is not only a life necessity
here, but a form of geo-poetics, an expression of identity
Infinity and abundance: The Province of Voj vo di na, and Bač ka in
it, are a frag ment of the largest granary in Europe
BAČKA
27

Granges: In the 19 th and 20 th century there used to be over a
thousand of these separated agricultural estates in the plains, and
then, several decades ago, under the reckless impact of industrialization
and proletarianization, they suddenly became desolated
and dilapidated. More than 20 of theme have been reconstructed
until now, for tourist purposes, and the new ones appear incessantly.
We return to them remorsefully, fleeing from overcrowded
and nervous cities.
Poetics: Granges were lauded in songs, entered literature, art,
music, film, became a symbol of a philosophy of life and a unique
sensibility
28 BAČKA

Apa­tin­ fenland: One of the abundant
hunting grounds in this part of Serbia
30 BAČKA

Thumbnails from Bačka: Youth section
of the famous tambura players from Bačka.
Carriages on the Pa li ć Lake. Wine knights.
Monument to a horse in Zob na ti ca
Som­bor: The City Hall with high tower,
built in 1842 in classicistic style, one of the
symbols of this beautiful city
BAČKA
33

Horgoš
Kanjiža
Krstur
Ban.
Aranđelovo
Adorjan
Senta
Bač. Petrovo
Selo
Temerin
Ada
Bač.Gradište
Žabalj
Krušedol
Inđija
E70
Beška
Novi Kneževac
Čoka
Padej
St. Pazova
Golubinci
Subotište
Ašanja
Kupinovo
34 BANAT
Čurug
Crna Bara
Iđoš
Bočar
Novi Bečej
Kumane
Elemir
St. Slankamen
Krčedin
N. Slankamen
N. Pazova
Batajnica
Dobanovci
Bečmen
Boljevci
Mokrin
Kikinda
Bašaid
Melenci
Đurđevo
Ečka
Belo Blato
Šajkaš
Vilovo
E75
Titel
Dunav
ZRENJANIN
Besni
Fok
BEOGRAD
Surčin
Nakovo
Sakule
Umka
Torda
Žitište
Novi Kozarci
Rusko Selo
Idvor
Baranda
Borča
Vojvoda Stepa
Nova Crnja
Botoš
Begejci
Kovačica
Opovo
Sefkerin
Glogonj
Jabuka
E75
Ritopek
Srpska
Crnja
Srpski Itebej
Krajišnik
Jaša Tomić
Sutjeska
Šurjan
Jarkovac
Samoš
Sečanj
Padina
Vladimirovac
Dobrica
Alibunar
Banatsko
Novo Selo
PANČEVO
Ilanđa
Lokve
Seleuš
Dolovo
Kovin
Plandište
Jermenovci
Uljma
Vatin
Sušara
Deliblato Dubovac
Gaj
Dubravica
Brežane
Kostolac
Klenovik
Vel. Središte
Vršac
Markovac
Mesić
Vračev Gaj
Bela
Crkva
Ram
Ostrvo V. Gradište
Braničevo
Majilovac

BA NAT
Slender on the map, cambered from the place where Sme de re vo and Mi roč reflect in
the Danube, all the way to Kr stu r Ba nat ski, where Hungarian border is planted. To
the left, it leans on Bač ka, Srem and Belgrade, to the right on its area that is a part of
Romania. Extracted, like a cutout, it resembles a small cloud on the blue sky over the
plains, or white goose feather floating on some ancient currents from the Carpathian
Mountains, a mountain chain the slopes of which end right here, on the eastern rim of
the Serbian part of Ba na t. This is how that same travel writer described this old land of
despots and frontiers: “The eastern part of Voj vo di na, between the Tisa, Danube and
borders with Romania and Hungary. Also vast and fertile plains, interrupted also by the
Be ge j and Ta mi š rivers, symbolized by their wines and beer, horses and songs, its noble
towns famed by their renowned Banatians.”
Experts for the spirit of a place (ge­ni­u s lo­ci ), landscape characterologists and strategists
of tourism development, describe Banat almost in the same manner as Bačka and Srem
(the entire Vojvodina). The Banatians frown on that. They are completely different, they
say, whether seriously, or as a joke, we would not bet on it.
According to 2002 census, if we exclude those parts of Ba na t that currently belong
to the territory of the city of Belgrade, almost 620,000 people live here. Over 70 percent
are Serbs, ima and Hungarians, Romanians, Slovaks, Ro ma... The most populous city
is Zre nja nin with a population of 80,000, Pan če vo has a population of 77,000, Ki kinda
42,000, Vr šac 37,000, No vi Be če j and Ko vi n almost 15,000, Be la Cr kva 11,000...
Belgrade settlement of Borča, which geographically belongs to Banat, has a population
of over 35,000.
The most famous Banatian cities sprouted on small river islands, those chinks of dry
soil in ancient fenlands (Zre nja nin, Ki kin da), or below lonely hills in the plains (Vr šac),
or at confluences of rivers (Pan če vo, at the confluence of the Ta mi š and Danube). Banat
also has numerous natural attractions, such as De li blat ska pe šča ra, Car ska ba ra, Bela
Crkva lakes. Other natural treasures include Vršac vineyard, one of the largest one in
Serbian countries, and medicinal waters and mud, such as the one in Me len ci , and and
immense fish ponds in Eč ka.
Ba nat is also far famed for its villages, especially those that gave birth to famous
personalities in Serbian culture. It is famed for Mi lo š Cr njan ski’s Ilan dža, Mi ha i lo Pu pin’s
Idvo r, Uro š Pre di ć’s Or lo va t, Đu ra Jak ši ć’s Srp ska Cr nja. Artistic expressions of Ba na t
also include poetry of Vas ko Po ps and Mi ro sla v An ti ć, Kon stan ti n Da ni lo’s paintings,
and a lot more.
Ba nat also has its palaces and granges, its taverns and tambura players, picturesque
festivals and customs. We warmly recommend that you visit “Da ni lu da je” in Ki kin da,
World Championship in Egg Tapping or goose fights in Mo kri n, some of numerous
chariot festivals, food fairs (such as “bacon Fair” in Ka ča re vo), wine days in Vršac or beer
days in Zre nja ni n, Naïve Painting Gallery in Ko va či ca, “Flower Carnival” in Be la Cr kva.
On the dining table, you will find everything that is offered in other places in Voj vodi
na, plus special Banatian delicatessen, which will be introduced to you in detail and
with pleasure by the hosts themselves. And if your car or bicycle breaks down, do not
worry. There will always be those four fat horses crossing the B e­ge­j, and boat on the Tisa,
and longboats on the Danube faster than the chaise on the road.
BANAT
35

36 БАНАТ

Zre­nja­nin : The City Hall, built in 1820. Pedestrian zone in the old
city centre. Small bridge on the Be ge j and Judicial Palace, built in
1906-1908.
The Liberator: Monument to king Pe tar I Ka ra đor đe vi ć in the
c e nt re of Z renj anin
BANAT
37

Around B a­na­t: The City Hall in No vi Be če j. Birth house of poet
and painter Đu ra Jak ši ć (1832-1878) in Srp ska Cr nja. Church in
No vi Kne žev ac. The City Hall in Ki kin da, built in 1891-1893, and
the central square in this town
Vr­š ac : Baroque Bishop’s Palace, the seat of the Eparchy of Bačka,
built in 1750-1757, at the time of bishop Jo va n Ge or gi je vi ć
38 BANAT

Carriages: Used to be an important means of transportation and
symbol of nobility; like hats, they would tell others who you are.
Today, they are a pretty detail in ethno tourism offer (such as this
Banatian two-horse carriage with white horses).
Ko­va­či­ca : A village in Banat, 49 kilometers from Belgrade, founded
in 1802 and populated primarily with Slovakians, is one of the
best known centers of naïve painting in Serbia
BANAT
41

Grandfather and grandson: This is how people used to harvest,
and today they still remember sometimes
With the help of machines: Harvest on Banatian fields along the
Danube, photograph taken from an airplane
42 BANAT

A village made of reed: Be lo Bla to, crouched
between fish pond “Eč ka” and Car ska ba ra, famous
for the best red in this part of Europe
C ar­ska ba­ra: About twenty kilometers
from Zre nja ni n, this Special Natural Reservation
is famous for exceptional diversity of
flora and fauna, with as many as 240 species
of birds 24 species of fish. It is included in
the UNE SCO’s list of marshlands that have
global significance.
BANAT
45

South Ba­nat: Wine festivals and harvest in
Vršac. A view over Pan če vo
B e­la Cr­kva: One of the seven lakes that
surround this town at the far southeast of
the Serbian part of Banat, and for which the
town is famous
46 BANAT

NOVI
SAD
Šid
Srem.
Mitrovica
ŠABAC
Ruma
Inđija
St. Pazova
N. Pazova
Surčin
Dunav
Sava
Erdevik
Kukojevići
Čalma
S. Ležmir
Beočin
Grgurovci Vrdnik
Irig
Krušedol
Krčedin
Titel
N. Slankamen
Novi
Banovci
Stari
Banovci
Belegiš
Surduk
Beška
Sremski
Karlovci
Besni
Fok
Putinci
Nikinci
Tovarnik
Subotište
Drenovac
Grabovci
Dobanovci
Bečmen
Obrež
Provo
Kupinovo
Boljevci
Umka
Bogatić
Prnjavor
Pričinović
Banovo
Polje
Laćarak
Zasivica
Lešnica
Varna
Morović
Višnjićevo
Bođani
Pećinci
Golubinci
E75
E70
E70
48 SREM

SREM
mbraced by the Danube on the north and east, Sa va on the south, crowned with
“EFru ška go ra, consecrated by its temples and enlightened by its vineyards, brotherly
leaning on Belgrade and Šu ma di ja, there is Srem. All decorated and gilded. Roman
metropolis Sirmium used to be located there, and a traveler today does not know where
to go first, from so much beauty and sights scattered everywhere.”
That was recorded by our travel writer in his book Serbia. By road, railways, rivers
(2007). And people from Srem, very proud of their homeland, say: “One falls in love with
Srem immediately, but it takes a life time to get to know it.”
As we have said, in Roman town (where Sremska Mitrovica is today) used to be the
main center of this area in the ancient times. The entire Srem, they say, was named after
it. Or it was vice versa. At the peak of its power, Sir mi ju m had a population of over
100,000! It had a magnificent imperial palace, it was surrounded by powerful ramparts,
it owned treasuries and great riches. At least seven Roman “Military Emperors” from
the 3rd and 4th centuries were born here (Tra jan De ci us, Aure li an, Prob, Maximilian
Hercules, Gra ti an, Con stan tie II, Gratian), some famous people ended their lives there
(emperor-philosopher Marcus Aurelius, for example). Material traces of that heritage are
kept in the Museum of Srem in Srem ska Mi tro vi ca.
Later, this country was in the hands of Serbian despots and a seat of “Bran ko vići
from Srem”. After the Great Serb Migration from the south in the late 17 th century,
led by patriarch Ar se ni je III Čar no je vi ć, for more than two centuries Srem ski Kar lov ci
were the key centre of spiritual, cultural and political life of Serbian people. The seat of
Serbian church used to be here as well, the most important schools were founded here,
capital books were written and printed, Serbian Duchy was proclaimed. All that has been
preserved until today by this beautiful town on the Danube, which is usually the first stop
for visitors to Sre m.
Fru ška go ra rises right above Srem ski Kar lo vci, and spreads far to the west, all the
way to the Serbian border. This mountain houses about twenty Christian Orthodox
monasteries built between the 15 th and 18 th c e ntur i es ( Kr uš ed ol, Grgete g , Hop ovo, Vrdnik,
Re me ta, Ja zak, Be o čin, Ra ko vac, Pri vi na Gla va, Ku ve ždin, Ši ša to vac...), and therefore
it is also called “Serbian north Holy Mountain” and “Serbian medieval Athos”.
According to 2002 census, the Serbian part of Srem has a population of almost
800,000. Majority of them (84 percent) are Serbs, but there are also Slo va ks, Ru syns,
Hungarians, Croatians and others. By far the largest number of them live in two Belgrade
municipalities that geographically belong to Sre m: in No vi Be o gra d 236,000, in Ze mu n
153,000. Srem ska Mi tro vi ca has a population of 40,000, Ru ma 33,000, In đi ja 27,000, Sta ra
Pa zo va 19,000, Ši d 17,000, Pe tro va ra di n 14,000, Srem ska Ka me ni ca 12,000, Srem ski Karlov
ci 9,000, Be o či n 8,000...
Mother Nature has endowed this area generously, and this can be seen in reservations in
Obed ska ba ra, Za sa vi ca, hunting grounds in Mo ro vi ć, National Park “Fru ška go ra”. When
you are in Sre m, use the opportunity to visit the unusual Museum of Bread in Pe ćin ci ,
Museum of Honey and Bee Keeping in Srem ski Kar lov ci , Museum of Naïve Art in Šid...
We can go on like this for a long time. However, the rich, plentiful and picturesque,
famed by its best artists, such as poets Jo va n Gr či ć Mi len ko, Mi li ca Sto ja di no vić Srpk
inj a , Br anko R adič ev ić , or p ainte rs S av a Šumanov ić , Mil e nko Š e rb an , s c u lptor Jov an
S old atov ić .
SREM
49

Srem ­ski Kar­lov­ci: Since the late 17 th century, one of the
most important Serbian centers, the seat of Archbishopric,
a place where, in 1848, Serbian Voj vo di na was proclaimed
Congregational Temple: St. Nichola’s Church in Sremski
Kar lov ci , built in 1758-1762
Symbol: Famous fountain “Four lions” at the central
square in Srem ski Kar lo vci
Gr­ge­teg : One of about twenty important Fruška
Gora monasteries. According to a legend, it was founded
in 1471 by Zmaj Og nje ni Vuk, son of the blinded Serbian
despot Gr gu r Bran ko vi ć
50 SREM

SREM
51

Joy and truth: “Ba no štor Days of Wine”, a modern wine cellar in
Srem and works on vineyards on Fruška Gora
Colors and lights: Summer in a Srem field
SREM
55

In the surroundings of Beočin: A tavern on the Danube and fishpond
in Su se k. Ethno club in Če re vi ć. A ferry on the Danube
A view of the Danube from Fru ška Go ra: “A silver cord through
timeless forests”
56 SREM

Around Sre­m: In the field with grandchildren,
because the future belongs to the young.
A boat on the Danube near Be ška. A bicycle
track on Fr uška G or a
O bed ­ska ba­ra: A well known natural reservation
in Pe ćin ac municipality, one of the
oldest protected natural goods in the world
(since 1874), today on UNE SCO’s list, habitat
of Glossy Ibis
58 SREM

City of emperors and martyrs: Ancient Sirmium
(artistic reconstruction). Archaeological
site. Sculpture of St. Dimitri, protector of
all Mi tro vi cas, including Sremska Mitrovica
City below the city: Roman archaeological
site in the centre of Srem ska Mi tro vi ca
SREM
61

Zmajevo
Stepanovićevo
E75
Kisač
Rumenka
Slana
Bara
Gložan
Futog
Veternik
Satelit
NOVI
SAD
PETROVARADIN
DUNAV
DUNAV
Begeč
DUNAV
Srem.
Kamenica
62 NOVI SAD

NO VI SAD
The second largest city in Serbia, the capital of northern Serbian province of Voj vodi
na. “Elegant city on the Danube, across from the famous Pe tro va ra din Fortress,
the Danube Gibraltar, the town associated with many beginnings and many peaks
of Serbian history and culture. Nicknamed the Serbian Athens, so traditional and so
modern, keeping its slow rhythm even in the most dramatic of circumstances, No vi Sad
still attracts visitors with its charm and its width.”
This city was built on a barren land and in fenlands by Serbs, but most merit for this
goes to Austrians. After taking over Pe tro va ra din from Turks in the last decade of the
17th century, they forbade Christian Orthodox people to live there. Therefore, in 1694,
Serbs built their own settlement on the left bank of the Danube, right across, initially
called Rac ka Va roš and Pe tro va ra din ski Ša nac. The name No vi Sad (Latin Neo plan ta)
ws introduced on February 1 st , 1748, when, pursuant to the charter of Austrian Empress
Maria Teresa, it was proclaimed a free royal city.
In the second half of the 18 th century and throughout 19 th century, this city was
one of the most important social and cultural centers of all Serbian people. In 1790,
Ema nu el Jan ko vić opened the first printing house there, Serbian Christian Orthodox
Gymnasium was opened in 1810, the first edition of S erbski letopis (since 1873 called
L e­to­pi s Ma­ti­ce sr p­ske ) was published in 1824, Serbian National Theatre was opened in
1861, Ma ti ca srp ska was moved here from Budapest in 1864... During that time, in 1863,
nine Serbian magazines was published in Novi Sad (as a comparison, there were four
magazines published in Belgarde at the same time, and six in Za gre b). Since then, this
city has been called Serbian Athens, with the same reason until today.
During the Revolution in 1848-49, using cannons from Petrovaradin Fortress,
Hungarians completely destroyed two thirds of the city on the other bank, which
remained without the majority of its population. It was practically built all over again,
and now it is the oldest No vi Sad there is.
According to 2002 census, in the narrow city area, No vi Sad officially has a population
of 192,000; if we add to this the entire metro area and suburbs, then it is almost 300,000.
Today, it is a modern and prosperous cultural, economic, communication, sports center,
a university town. The city of attractive events, good museums, galleries, libraries,
theatres. It captivates with its goodness and creativity, its festivals (“Exit”, “Ste ri ji no
po zor je”...), fairs (agriculture, book, automobile, tourism fair, etc.), its river banks and
squares, slender towers and old edifices, and mostly with its great artists and their work.
Many great artists were born or spent a major part of their lives in this city, among
others: Jo van Jo va no vić Zmaj, Va sa Sta jić, La za Ko stić, Đu ra Jak šić, Alek san dar Ti šma,
Mi ro slav An tić, Du ško Tri fu no vić, Pe ro Zu bac... (You can easily supplement this list if
you reference the six-volume Novi Sad Biographies by Va sa Sta ji ć.)
“Serbian measure of Voj vo di na and No vi Sad “, says a historian, “was determined by
soldiers-frontiersmen, š aj­ka­ši, noble and merchant families, knights of culture and great
benefactors, known and unknown, who left numerous estates and knowledge to Serbian
people and the united homeland, which they had been discerning from a distance, in
the future, in a dream.”
“Voj vo di na is not a territory but a state of mind”, writes Isi do ra Se ku lić. And it seems
that this cannot be felt so clearly anywhere else but in Novi Sad, its capital.
NOVI SAD
63

Three views: Pet rov ar adin
On the other side of the river: No vi Sad seen
f rom Pet rov ar adin For t ress
Arrival: A boat down the Danube, just
entering No vi Sad
66 NOVI SAD

In the centre: Streets, buildings and the
square in the centre of Novi Sad
Temple and school: St. George Church
and the building of Serbian Orthodox Great
Gymnasium (opened in 1703, today Gymnasium
“Jo van Jo va no vić Zmaj”)
NOVI SAD
69

Under the light: Palace in the centre. A monument to national
tribune and former mayor Sve to za r Mi le ti ć (1826-1901) in front of
the City Hall. The Synagogue, built in 1906-1908.
Cathedral: A monumental neo-gothic church carrying Maria’s
name, built in the late 19 th century
NOVI SAD
71

Postcards from Novi Sad: Monument to Đu ra Jak ši ć (work of Jova
n Sol da to vi ć). Another view of the main square. Bishop’s Palace,
seat of the Eparchy of Bačka, built in 1901.
Waiting for the spring: Small evening conversation in Novi Sad
On the Danube: A purple sunrise
72 NOVI SAD

Padinska
Skela
DUNAV
Batajnica
Borča
Surčin
Zemun
E70
Krnjača
BEOGRAD
Obrenovac
Boljevci
Jakovo
SAVA
Umka
Železnik Resnik
Sremčica
Barič
Ripanj
Kaluđerica
E75
Grocka
Vrčin
Barajevo
Ralja
Stepojevac
Sopot
Lazarevac
Mladenovac
76 BELGRADE

BELGRADE
Belgrade has a two thousand and three hundred years long and very exciting history.
All of its battles, edifices, temples, all peoples who have fought for it, all upturns and
destructions, all of its faces are there. Face of a warrior, builder, poet, lover, rogue, bohemian,
visionary, knight, maestro, jolly seer... Celts, Romans, Ava rs, Go ths, Hu ns, Byzantines,
Hungarian, Turks and others walked through it (staying for a longer or shorter periods of
time, paying smaller or higher price)... Serbs did not walk through it, they stayed.
The oldest preserved account of the Slavic name Belgrade is from 878. In 1284, Belgrade
became the Serbian capital for the first time, when it was given to king Dra gu tin Ne manjić
as a gift from his father in law, Hungarian king Be la IV (together with Ma čva, Ja dar,
So li, Uso ra), thus creating northern Serbian kingdom. After Dragutin’s death in 1316, the
city and the entire “Srem kingdom” was, for a short period, taken over by his son Vla dislav.
With an intention to unify two Serbian kingdoms, he was dethroned by his uncle
Mi lu tin, and Hungarian army, as retaliation, conquered and fully destroyed Belgrade.
Eighty four years later, the Belgrade Fortress was under Serbian insignia again: in
1404, de spot Ste fan La za re vić was given the city under his control by Hungarian king
Sigismund of Luxemburg, as a diplomatic gift. The stunning Belgrade despotate, built
from ruins and dedicated to Our Lady, remained under Serbian control until Stefan’s
sudden death in 1427. Then, pursuant to the contract, it was returned to Hungarians, and
de spot Đur đe Bran ko vić built Sme de re vo as the new Serbian capital.
On several occasions after this, Turks raised numerous troops and seized Belgrade,
but they managed to conquer it only in 1521, under sultan Suleyman. Since the late 17 th
century, several alternate occupation of the city by Austrians and Turks ensued. In the
period of Austrian control from 1717 to 1739, the beautiful baroque Belgrade was built,
including the Fortress through the remains of which we walk today.
In the First Serbian Uprising, Ka ra đor đe ’s Serbs entered Belgrade in 1806, and kept
it until 1813. On December 12 th , 1829, the famous Hatiserif was read in Belgrade: “We
gained, in one day, the state, the capital and the dynasty.” In 1841, the capital of liberated
Serbia was officially moved from Kra gu jev ac to Belgrade. And in 1867, the last Turkish
troops are leaving Belgrade. Keys to the city were officially handed over to Serbian duke
Mihail o O brenov ić .
In the next century and a half, this city was the capital of the Duchy and Kingdom
of Serbia, three Yugoslavias, and since 2006, it is again the capital of independent Serbia,
now a republic.
Belgrade is today a true metropolis, with a population of over two million. It is the seat
of key Serbian cultural, scientific, commercial, governmental and religious institutions,
major sports clubs and associations, companies... It has over 70 churches, two-digit
number of theatres, as well as museums, cultural centers, galleries, several universities.
A series of world class cultural and commercial events takes place here. It is also famous
for its nightlife, entertainment on river banks, artistic bohemia, concerts on city squares.
It is characterized by kindness toward the weak and steadfastness toward bullies, special
charm and creativity, poetics and hu mor, “Belgrade view of the world”. If you are not
sure that you understand what we are talking about, read Du ško Ra do vi ć, Mi lo š Cr njansk
i, Moma Kap or, Mil or ad Pav ić , L ib ero Markoni . . .
And when it hurts, smile. It is so Belgrade style. So Belgrade style.
BELGRADE
77

Gates of Kalemegdan: Sa hat Gate (and
Tower), Defter da r’s Gate, Ka ra đor đe ’s Gate,
Le o pol d’s Gate
Ru­ži­ca Church: Initially built in the Fortress
in the 15 th century and dedicated to the
Mother of God, demolished in 1521, reconstructed
in 1867-1869 as a military church,
destroyed again in World War One, reconstructed
again in 1924
Evening in the Old Town: A view from
No vi Beograd over the Sava Port and Fortress
80 BELGRADE

Belgrade­waters: A ship sailing from the
Danube into Sa va. A view from the air of
a marina in Zemun. Ze mun and the Danube,
a view from Gar do š. Bridges over the
Sava River
The Sava slope: Port, Fortress, tower of
Christian Orthodox Cathedral...
BELGRADE
83

The most beautiful edifices of Belgrade were built before World War
Two: Serbian Government. Presidency. Old Palace (the Parliament of
Belgrade). Seat of “Serbian Railways”. University of Arts and Christian
Orthodox Cathedral
Pedestrian zone and promenade: Entrance to Knez-Mi ha i lo va Street,
the central pedestrian zone of Belgrade, from the Republic Square
BELGRADE
85

Ada: Only four kilometers from the city centre there is the Sava Lake
and two river islands (Ci gan li ja and Me đi ca). The former – larger one has
recently been proclaimed the third most beautiful city island in the world.
Belgrade Stonehenge: Is this enigmatic stone sculpture near the Sava
Lake an artistic remembrance of the Celtic founders of the city?
Golden fleece: The mythical Argonauts sailed below the Belgrade Fortress
(in the account of Diogenes Laërtius), returning from Colchis. This
archetypal image and this view from the Fortress over the waters of Ušće,
still shape all truly Belgrade people.
86 BELGRADE

UŽICE
Loznica
Valjevo
Bajina
Bašta
G. Milanova
ŠABAC
Surčin
Sava
Požega
Lazarevac
Obrenovac
Nikinci
Tovarnik
Subotište
Grabovci
Dobanovci
Bečmen
Obrež
Provo
Vladimirci
Lojanice
Ašanja
Kupinovo
Boljevci
Bogatić
Prnjavor
Pričinović
Desić
Bela Reka
Tekeriš
Jadr. Lešnica
Lešnica
Zavlaka
Varna
Ribarica
Kamenica
Banja
Koviljača
Osečina
Pecka
Krupanj
Postenje
Ljubovija
Radalj
Mali Zvornik
Pambukovica
Tulari
Banjani
Koceljeva
Dren
Kažuar
Divci
Stubline
Grabovac
Ušće
Ub
Lajkovac
Draževac
Brgule
Mionica
Ljig
G. Banjani
Kočtunići
Družetići
Jančići
Lučani
Vrujci
Krčmar
Brežđe
Lunovo
Selo
Jakalj
Kosjerić
Mravinci
Bobova
Počuta
Mitrovac
Šljivovica
Kremna
Kravica
Sevojno
90 WESTERN SERBIA

WESTERN SERBIA
Travel writer: “The area betweeen the Sava on the north, Dri na on the west, Kolu
ba ra ond the east and Užice mountains on the south. (You can move it a little
here and there but, for this occasion, we have set the above mentioned borders,
relatively, for practical reasons.) It encompasses different cities and ge­ni­u s lo­ci , from
Šabac, through Lo zni ca and Va lje vo, La za rev ac and Lji g, to Ko sje ri ć and Ba ji na Ba šta.
From Ma čva, Po ce ri na and Ja dar, through Ce r, Gu če vo and Va ljev o mountains, to
Tar a and Z l at ib or. From m Petkov ic a Monaste r y, Č okeš ina , R ad ov aš nic a and Kaona ,
through Tro no ša, Bo go va đa, Će li je, Le li ći and Pu sti nja, to Ra ča on the Drina. From
B anj a Kov ilj ač a , R ad a ljska , B ad anj a and Vr uj c i, t hrou g h D ivč ib are, to D rve ng r ad and
the Šar gan Eight... The land of fertile valleys and golden forests, beautiful mountains
and brave people who, living for centuries on the ancient border, did not lose their
dream of freedom.”
Almost 600,000 people live in this area, most of them in the area of Šabac (123,000),
Va lje vo (97,000), Lo zni ca (86,000), La za rev ac (62,000). Serbs comprise over 95 percent
of the population.
Characterologist: “Tradition and pride have sprouted from the vertical line
of medieval Serbia, with idyllic landscapes of pearly nature... The land of ancient
migrants from Old Herzegovina, Brdo and Bo snia, with clear speech (on which
Serbian literary language was founded), the land of Vuk and Cyrillic alphabet,
homel and of Janko Ves elinov ić , Jov an Cv ij ić , L az a L az arev ić , Stoj an Nov akov ić , D e-
s anka Ma ks imov i ć , S aint Nikol aj Velimirov ić , St anisl av Vinaver, du ke Ž ivoj in Mi -
ši ć. One of the legendary homelands of fabled Serbian hero Mi lo š Obi li ć, the one
who killed a Turkish emperor during the Battle of Kosovo. Lič no sno, an authentic
and entrepreneurial area, dedicated to faith and people, open toward the world but
defiant to conquerors (rebellious), robust mixture of virtues brought from hawk hills
and found in the generous Serbia, curageous and tender, full of humor and superior
easiness, gushing, different, choosy, with free spirit, connoisseur, entertaining, aware
of its health and oriented toward authenticity...”
Vuk Ka ra džić, probably the greatest among the giants of Serbian culture, born
here (in Tr ši ć, near Lo zni ca), wrote: “I was born and raised in Serbia, and therefore it
appears to me that there is no country more beautiful in the world than Serbia, or a
place more beautiful than Tr ši ć.” If you happen to come here, do not miss to stop by
Šabac “Či vi ja da” (fe sti val of humor and sa ti re), “Vu kov sa bor” in Lo zni ca and Tr ši ć,
“Plum Fair” in Ose či na, “Ub Nights”, “De san ka’s Indian Summer” in Bran ko vi na (near
Va lje vo), “Haymaking on Rajac”, “Shepard’s Days” in Ko sje ri ć, “Mi ši ć’s Days” in Mi o nica,
“Winter Stores Festival” in Ko ce lje vi...
Gastronomical Treasury of Serbia: “Western Serbia has a benevolent climate, with
a large number of sunny days, ideal altitude, scented pastures and favorable winds.
Therefore, food for this region is of exceptional quality and has special taste. Cheese,
dried meat, top quality double-distilled fruit rakia, especially juniper brandy and plum
brandy, wines in Po ce ri na and around Va lje vo, corn bread made of white corn with
young kaj­ma­k , pies, lamb and veal cooked “under sač”, stewed fruit, strudels, dried fruit,
abundant winter stores made of various vegetables... But slowly, the locals would say, it
is only an appetizer, just a little warm-up... And we are long distance riders!”
WESTERN SERBIA
91

Liberating power of water: Coffee in ethno-village of Vrh po lje.
Fishing on the Drina near Lju bo vi ja. “A year-long river”: From its
spring, to this fascinating waterfall by which it discharges into the
Drina, the Vre lo River is exactly 365 meters long
Rafting: Sailing down the Drina is an unforgettable experience
Ru­ka­vac : A view from Ta ra of a part of the Pe ru ćac Lake
94 WESTERN SERBIA

Haymaking on Rajac: Every year in July, the first week after Petrov
da n, on Rajac, a part of Su vo bor Mountain, 12 kilometers from
Ljig, the traditional ethno-tourist event takes place, resembling the
old tradition of mo ba and competitions of the best hay-makers on
mountain valleys
Duke in Mi­o­nica: A monument to Ži vo ji n Mi ši ć (1855-1921), the
commander of the First Serbian Army in the famous Battle of Kolubara
(No vem ber-December 1914), who was born in the nearby
village of Stru ga nik
WESTERN SERBIA
97

Rav ­na go­ra : Used to be covered with thick beech forest, the refuge
of the first guerilla movement in the occupied Europe during World
War Two, decades later enslaved by irrational ideological prohibitions
and usurpations. Even its forests were destroyed in retaliation.
Today, it seems, it ha finally been occupied by those who are truly
in love with its beauty.
Holy bishop: A monument to Saint Nikolai the Serb (1880-1956)
in front of Soko Monastery, dedicated to him, at the foot of So kolska
Mountain and So ko-gra d, in Lju bo vi ja municipality
98 WESTERN SERBIA

Traces of old sophistication: Two scenes from the noble Šabac.
The central square in Va lje vo. Te šnjar, the old Valjevo district
Te­ke­r i š : A monument and memorial charnel house dedicated
to Serbian soldiers killed in the famous and horrible Battle of Cer,
which took place between August 16 th and 20 th , 1914, between the
invading Austro-Hungarian troops and liberating forces of Serbian
Army. After five bloody days and nights, the invaders were forced
over the Drina. About 40,000 people were killed in the battle (16,000
Serbs and 24,000 Austro-Hungarians).
WESTERN SERBIA
101

Life is a miracle: Railway station Mo kra Go ra and irresistible Drven
grad, on the nearby Me ćav nik hill, built after the great film director
Emir Kusturica had made his film Life is a Miracle in this area
and revived the old narrow gauge railway called the Šargan Eight
Fairy-tale like and made of wood: Church dedicated to Saint Sava
the Serb in Dr ven gra d
102 WESTERN SERBIA

Kupinovo
Banjani
Divci
Divčibare
Grabovac
Ub
Obrenovac
Stubline
Lajkovac
Mionica
Vrujci
Brežđe
Brgule
Ljig
Umka
Draževac
Lazarevac
G. Banjani
Koštunići
Družetići
Jančići
Beljina
Sibnica
Vinčane
Partizani
G. Milanovac
Barajevo
Aranđelovac
Belanovica
Boljkovci
Takovo
Rogača
Ralja
Stojnik
Orašac
Mladenovac
Topola
Oplenac
Stagari
Vraćevšnica
SMEDEREVO
Jagnjilo
Šatornja
Vel. Krsna
V. Šenj
Bare
Smed. Palanka
KRAGUJEVAC
Knić
Pridvorica
Čamić
Kutlovo
Mihajlovac
Selevac
Azanja
Desimirovac
Golobok
Vel. Plana
Rača
Lapovo
Batočina
Sipić
Ratković
Dragovac
Osipaonica
Lozovik
E75
Klenovik
Jagodina
Dragocvet
ožega
Lučani
ČAČAK
Guncati
Rekovac
Guča
Kravica Slatina
Godačica Belušić
104 ŠUMADIJA AND SMEDEREVO

ŠU MA DI JA AND SME DE RE VO
In accordance with the estimate of the Geodetic Institute, geographical centre of Serbia
is exactly in this area, in the village of Dra ča, nine kilometers from Kra gu jevac toward
Gor nji Mi la nov ac. And not knowing about this calculation, this is what w wrote long
before that:
“The heart of new age Serbia, the area where it has awakened or was born again. Both
liberation uprisings against the Ottoman Empire, at the beginning of Serbian revolution in
the 19 th century, started here (Ora šac, Ta ko vo). This is where the last medieval and the first
new century capital of Serbia (Sme de re vo, Kra gu je vac) are located. This beautiful wavy
landscape, its holy mountains and waters, idyllic villages and towns with a personality,
people and songs, plum orchards and vineyards, so simply and so profoundly linked to
the sky and earth, to authenticity of the people and its all-seeing story, are the first thing
that we think about today when we try to describe the essence of Serbia.”
According to 2002 census, about 550,000 people live here, but unofficially many
more. Most of them live in Kragujevac (150,000), Čač ak (74,000), Sme de re vo (63,000)...
Various beauties, wonders and curiosities can be found here. Kra gu je vac, today a modern
regional centre, is in many aspects the first in Serbia: the first capital of the country
resurrected from slavery in the 19 th century, the first court (1820), first gymnasium
(1833), first newspaper (No v i ne srb ske , editor Di mi tri je Da vi do vić), first theatre (Jo a ki m
Vuj ić’s Knja ­ž e v­sko-srb­ski te­a­tar, 1835), first lyceum (1838), first cast cannons (1853), first
power plant (1884).
Sme de re vo houses the last and, until today, the best preserved Serbian medieval
fortress, on the bank of the Danube, as well as one of the most beautiful central city
squares in all Serbian countries. The area is full of spa centers: Bu ko vič ka, Sel ters, Pa lanač
ki ki se ljak, Gor nja Trep ča, Ov čar. You will encounter regions rich in vineyards near
To po la and Sme de re vo, and wherever you go, you will encounter rivers (the Danube,
Western Mo ra va, Ra ča, Ja se ni ca, Le pe ni ca, Bje li ca...) and lakes (Gru žan sko, Gro šnič ko,
Du len sko, Bu banj, Me đu vrš je...). Remains of important old cities are also Bo rač, Ostrovi
ca, Rud nik, in Middle Ages called the “Silver Serbian City”.
Pay attention to Christian Orthodox relics in these areas. On the beautiful hill Oplenac,
above To po la, there is Church of St. George (built in 1912-1913), mausoleum of
Ka ra đor đe vić dynasty overlaid with white Venčac marble, housing a true anthology of
Serbian medieval fresco painting (copies from 60 old temples, made in mosaic technique).
In Ov čar -Kablar Gorge, there is a string of a large number of sacral pearls, monasteries
mostly from the end of the 14 th century. Until today, ten of them have been preserved or
re c onst r u c te d ( Vaved enj e, Va znes enj e, Jov anj e, Usp enj e, Nikolj e, Sretenj e, Preobr až enj e,
Sve ta Tro ji ca, Bla go ve šte nje, Ili nje). There are also the cave refuge-church Ka đe ni ca and
Sa vi nje, a church dedicated to St. Sava of Serbia. In the nearby Čačak, the city founded by
Ste fan Stra ci mir, brother of Ste fa n Ne ma nja, the founder of the sacred Serbian medieval
Ne ma nji ć dynasty, you will also encounter numerous treasures and wonderful surprises.
And on the other side of Je li ca, magnetic Guča is pulsing in the rhythm of trumpet,
famous for its “folk carnival of Serbian jazz”.
You must not miss to, open and curious, come to Gor nji Mi la no vac, Knić, Lu ča ne.
Also to Ba to či na, Ra ča, La po vo. And to Pla na, Pa lan ka, Ko po rin, Po kaj ni ca... So that you
would not have regrets later.
ŠUMADIJA AND SMEDEREVO
105

Cities, edifices: Memorial school in Orašac, built in 1932, commemorating
the heroes from the First Serbian Uprising. A monument to
duke Ra do mi r Put ni k (1847-1917) and building of the District Court
in Kra gu jev ac. Ho tel “Belgrade” (formerly “Kren”) in Čač ak, built in
1900. Building of the District Court in Sme de re vo, from 1888, and the
central city square
Leader in To­po­la: A monument to Ka ra đor đe Pe tro vi ć (1762-1817),
the leader of the First Serbian Uprising against Turkish occupation,
work of Petar Pa la vi či ni je, 1938.
The Gruža Lake: To the west from Kni ć, occupying 900 hectares,
about 10 kilometers long, up to 30 meters deep, abundant in fish
108 ŠUMADIJA AND SMEDEREVO

The capital: The Sme de revo Fortress, as the new capital of Serbia,
was built by de spot Đur đe Bran ko vić (1377-1456) in a little over
two years (1427-1430), after sudden death of his uncle and predecessor
de spo t Ste fa n La za re vi ć (1377-1427) and after Belgrade
was returned to Hungarians, in accordance with the contract. At the
time, this was the largest fortress built on plains in Europe, embodiment
of the power of Serbian Despotate, today a venue for many
cultural events.
Forefathers and offspring: Traditional knight tournament on the
Smederevo Fortress
ŠUMADIJA AND SMEDEREVO
111

Ethno-villages: Return to nature, healthy
life and healthy food, that “original simplicity”
which used to make us calmer and
deeper, is one of the key civilization trends
of this age. Serbia, with rural tourism as one
of the pillars of its tourist offer, is fully in accordance
with this trend.
“Raj ­ski ko­na­ci”: Ethno village in Le u ši ći ,
on the slopes of Su vo bo r, 25 kilometers from
Čač ak and 28 from Gor nji Mi la novac
112 ŠUMADIJA AND SMEDEREVO

Wine and other gifts: Ople nac
Sme­de­re v­o v ine yard s: Picturesque harvest
festivals
Mosaic: Interior of the St. George
Church in Oplenac – the true anthology of
Serbian medieval painting – contains 725
painted compositions, with 40 million small
glass pieces, in 15 thousand hues! That is
what they say, we did not count. And when
you go there, enchanted, you will not think
about counting.
ŠUMADIJA AND SMEDEREVO
115

Kovin
Mihajlovac
Smed. Palanka
Deliblato Dubovac
Gaj
Golobok
Vel. Plana
Batočina
Sipić
Desimirovac
Dubravica
Brežane
E75
Kostolac
Klenovik
Ram
Ostrvo V. Gradište
Braničevo
Majilovac
POŽAREVAC
Lučica
Malo Crniće Boževac
Kučevo
Manastirica
Vel. Selo
Kučajno
Aleksandrovac Kladurovo
Žabari
Kušljevo
Petrovac
Svilajnac
Gložane
Jagodina
Vojska
Rajkina
V. Laole
Burovac
Glogovac
Krušar
Senje
Zelenik
Melnica
Stamnica
Bistrica
Šetonje
Čordin
Krupaja
Despotovac
Golubac
Sige
Sisevac
Radenka
Brnjica
Rakova bara
Bukovska
Žagubica
Troglan
Bara
Boljetin
Majdanpek
Brestovačka
Banja
Podgorac
Ratković
Dragocvet
Rekovac
Ćuprija
Paraćin
Popovac
Raševica
Plana
118 BRANIČEVO AND POMORAVLJE

BRA NI ČE VO AND PO MO RA VLJE
Another central part of Serbia. Rich, beautiful, diverse. Marked by its rivers and
springs, caves and lakes, old cities and important relics. Its special assets are its
important people who scattered, all over this area, their noble vestiges.
“In Celtic, Mo ra va means a “beautiful girl”. A beauty. The name Bra ni če vo, the old
town and the area named after it, says everything. Since the ancient times, peoples and
cultures have been unmistakably sensing the gifts of this country, this area. The Morava
Serbia branched out here, the one who took over the torch after the fall of the empire,
and reached the Danube here. The Despotate was born and grew strong here, there are
temples and fortresses here without which it would have been difficult for Serbia to rise
in the 19 th century.”
This region has a population of about 400,000, mostly in the area of Ja go di na (83,000),
Po ža revac (75,000), Pa ra ći n (58,000), Pe trov ac na Mla vi (35,000) and Ću pri ja (34,000).
In order to understand the geo-poetics of these territories, you would have to, in your
journey, come down to the banks of the Danube and Silver lake, the Great Mo ra va, Mlava,
Re sa va, Pe k, Cr ni ca, Gr za. You would have to listen to the hum of Kru paj Spring and
spring of the Mla va River (near Ža gu bi ca), Gr za (near Pa ra ći n). You would have to enter
numerous, beautiful and mysterious local caves, some of which are true “underground
museums”. It would be difficult to see them all, only in Ho mo lje there are about forty of
them, but do not miss to visit Re sav ska, So ko li ca, Ce re mo šnja and Du boč ka caves. They
are marked on every decent tourist and road map of Serbia, and you can find them easily
and without problems.
These territories hide a series of old towns, the remains of which are today
archaeological sites and cultural centers, attractive for true travelers. The most significant
among ancient towns is the Roman Vi mi na ci um, near Ko stol ac, the seat of the Seventh
Legion, important imperial city and port on the Danube. At the confluence of the Kučaj
ska and Pek rivers, there used to be Hadrian’s Gu du scum, and at the confluence of
the Pek and Danube, there used to be Pin cum. Some of important medieval towns are
Go lu bac and Ram on the Danub, and Ždre lo on the Mla va.
In “sacral geography” of this area, one should not miss medieval monasteries Rav
anic a , Sis oj ev ac , Manas ij a , G ornj a k , Vitovnic a , Rukumij a , Tumane, Kal eni ć , Pet r uš a ,
Sve ta Pet ka...
Try to visit Po ža rev ac during the “Ljubičevo Horse Games” and do not miss to visit
the National Museum and Gallery “Mi le na Pa vlo vić Ba ri li”. In Ve li ko Gra di šte ask for
the dates of the festival “Ca rev če vi da ni” and drive to the confluence of the Pe k and
Danube, where the large sandbank and raised water level seem so bay-like, so coast-like.
In Svi lajn ac, stop in front of the monuments to duke Ste va n Sin đe li ć and Ma ra Re savk
inj a . Ne ar D esp otov ac , t he re is Manas ij a Monaste r y, R es avska c ave, D esp otov ac Sp a
Center. In Ja go di na, “Days of Comedy” have been taking place every March, since 1971.
Once you are there, visit the Homeland Museum, Museum of Naïve Art, St Peter’s and
St. Paul’s Church, the Zoo, Aqua Park. If you happen to come to beautiful Le vač, stop by
Re ko vac, and on the slopes of Gle dić Mountains, do not miss to see Ka le nić, one of the
most beautiful monasteries of the Morava School. Monasteries near Ću pri ja are Ra va nica
(with relics of the Saint Duke) and Si se vac (excursion grounds and monastery), near
Pa ra ći n there are Sve ta Pet ka, Bogorodica, Gr za.
There is everything here, all you need is to have enough time. And take your time.
BRANIČEVO AND POMORAVLJE
119

On the water and around it: Images from
this part of the Danube basin
Guardian into the entrance to Đer­dap: Medieval
Go lu bac, in its current appearance
built after 1291, when it fell under the rule of
Serbian “Northern King” Dra gu tin Ne ma njić
(1253-1316)
Remembrance of the great river of the
times when it was a sea: Sailing competition
near Go lubac
122 BRANIČEVO AND POMORAVLJE

Edifices, explorations, waters: District office
in Po ža rev ac (from 1888). Archaeological
explorations in Roman Viminacium, near
Ko stol ac. The Silver Lake. Spring of the Mlava
River.
Ljubičevo Equestrian Games: “Do not
take me out without a reason, do not bring
me back without honors!”
BRANIČEVO AND POMORAVLJE
125

Re­sav­a Cave: The largest and, according to many, the most beautiful
underground hall in Serbia. Out of 2,830 meters of its channels
and passages, 800 meters long track was developed for visitors,
reaching the depth of 80 meters.
Fashion: The most beautiful caves of Serbia are also called “underground
museums”. This photograph from Re sav a cave shows
that they can also be attractive fashion show catwalk.
BRANIČEVO AND POMORAVLJE
127

Ja­go­di­na : Homeland Museum. Image from the centre of the
town. Museum of Naïve Art (with international collection of 2,500
paintings, sculptures, drawings and graphic art). Saints Peter and
Paul Church, built in 1899.
Gr­za: The stunning spring of this river, near Pa ra ći n
Ma­na ­si­ja: The famous monastery (also known as Re sa va monastery),
enclosed with a bastion with eleven powerful towers, endowment
of despot Ste fa n La za re vi ć, built in 1406-1408; it was also
one of the most important cultural and educational centers in the
golden age of Serbian Despotate
128 BRANIČEVO AND POMORAVLJE

V. Gradište
Golubac Brnjica
Radenka
Zelenik
Kučevo
Manastirica
Kučajno
Kladurovo
Melnica
Stamnica
Bistrica
Šetonje
Čordin
Krupaja
Sige
Rakova bara
Bukovska
Žagubica
Boljetin
Majdanpek Donji
Milanovac
Kula
Jasikovo
Vlaole
Bor
Miroč
Brza
Palanka
Kladovo
Mihajlovac
Klokočevac
Jabukovac
Plavna
Tanda
Slatina
Sikote
Salaš
Trnjane
Koprivnica
Tekija
Urovica
Petrovo
selo
Brusnik
Negotin
Rečka
Šipikovo
Tamnić
V. Vrbica
Prahovo
Korbovo
Radujevac
Troglan
Bara
Brestovačka
Zagrađe
Banja
Rgotina Vražogrnac
Šarbanovac
Podgorac
Sumrakovac
Popovac
Plana
Grabovo
Boljevac
Zaječar
Lenovac
Bećevica
Lastovo
Marinovac
Ćićevac
E75
Deligrad
Kaonik
Vrbovac
Mozgovo
Soko Banja
Aleksinac
Šiljegovac
Vrelo
Jakovlje
Beli Breg
132 EASTERN SERBIA
Miljkovac
NIŠ
Bučje
Čitluk
Knjaževac
Beli Potok
Svljig
Šarbanovac
Žukovac
G. Kamenica
Kalna
Balta
Berilovac
Ravno
Bučje

EASTERN SERBIA
vast area between the Danube on the north and Svr ljig Mountains in the south,
A between Homolj and Kučaj Mountains on the west and the state border in the east.
“Old cultures and imperial cities, Roman li mes and golden river, picturesque et hno-units
and wines as fervent as the haiduks from Krajina, mountains rising over Serbia like
guardian sphinx, S erbian Al ta mi ra and famous spa centers – are the insignia of this area.”
This area has a population of over 300,000, most of them in the region of Za je ča r
(66,000), Bo r (56,000), and Ne go ti n (44,000).
The north part of this area is adorned with National Part “Đer dap”, the largest protected
area in Europe (63,680 hectares). The Danube here is powerful, at times immense, like a
sea. And when it enters four gorges (Go lu bac, Ka zan , Si p, Go spo đin vir) it does not appear
tamed or less noble. In Ka za n, it reaches depth of 105 meters, which is the greatest river
depth in Europe. Roman emperor Trajan (reigned 98-117) built the first road through
the gorge, a bridge over the Danube, and Di a na fortress in Ka ra ta š, near today’s Kla do vo.
Today in Đerdap, this emperor is commemorated by the famous Trajan’s plaque (Tabula
Tra i a na). Here, in Đer da p, further upstream from Do nji Mi la nov ac, there is Le pen ski
Vir, a very important prehistoric site, a testimony of developed settlements, 7,000 years
old, which significantly changes our perception of the precursors of history.
Throughout Eastern Serbia, there is abundance of medicinal waters, and therefor the
f amous l o c a l sp a c e nte rs : Brestov ačka ne ar B or, G amz ig r adska ne ar Z aj eč ar, S okob anj a
and the neighboring Jo ša nič ka banja. Natural wealth also includes lakes (Bor sko, Bovan
sko, Gr li ško, So vi nac, Rgot sko). Just like on the other, western side of Homolj and
Kučaj Mountains, caves of this area enchant with their number and riches. Raj ko va (near
Maj dan pe k), Zlot ska (near Bo r), Bo go vin ska (near Bo ljev ac), Pre ko no ška (near Svr lji g).
The following mountains also stand out for its beauty: Mi roč, De li Jo van, Rtanj, Ozren,
De vi ca, Sta ra Mountain, and among rivers the five Ti mok rivers and one Mo ra vi ca.
At least two Roman emperors were born in this area. In Šar ka me n, near Ne go ti n, there
are remains of the birth palace of Emperor Maximinus Daia (reigned 305-313), and near
Za je ča r, in Gam zi gra d, there are remains of magnificent palace “Felix Romuliana” of
Emperor Galerius (293-311).
Well known wine areas in Eastern Serbia are Ne go tin and Knja že vac regions. The
best place to understand the truth of Negotin wines are local pim­ni­ce , old vineyard
settlements in Rajac, Ro glje vo, Sme do va c, Štu bi k and Tam ni č, where wine is made
and kept in houses that preserve authentic architecture. The trademark of Knjaževac
winemakers is hill Džer vin.
In Ne go ti n and surrounding area, you must definitely visit the Fortress (called Ba ba
Fin ka), monument to haiduk Velj ko Pe tro vi ć, birth house of composer Ste va n Sto ja novi
a Mo kranjac (“Mokranjac Days” are organized there every year), monasteries Bu ko vo,
Ko ro glaš and Vrat na. In addition to them, Za je ča r has a valuable Museum, which stores
a significant part of findings from Gam zi gra d, and also important is Su vo dol Monastery.
You will also be reminded of important people from Zaječar, such as Sve to za r Mar ko vi ć,
Ni ko la Pa ši ć, Đor đe Gen či ć, Zo ra n Rad mi lo vi ć, Hai duk Velj ko... You should spend more
time in So ko ba nja, it would take a long time to list all the reasons why, and in Knja ževac
pay attention to the Homeland Museum, the old city centre and prehistoric drawing at
the nearby Gra bo vi ca cave.
EASTERN SERBIA
133

Along the right bank: L ep e nsk i Vir Mus e -
um. Old district and beach in Kla do vo. Blede
ri ja waterfall, in the vicinity of this city
B a­nja , Po­reč , D o­nji Mi­la­no­vac: it had three
names and was moved three times (in 1691,
1832 and 1967) until, after the construction
of the dam and hydro power plant “Đer dap
I”, it finally settled in this beautiful place
Mi­roč and Ka­zan: A view from the
mountain of the place where the Danube
reaches the highest depth of all rivers in Europe
(105 meters)
136 EASTERN SERBIA

Felix Romuliana: Roman Emperor Galerius
(reigned 293-311) built in Gam zi gra d the
imperial complex, magnificent like the one in
Thessaloniki, and dedicated it to his mother.
It was one of the most luxurious monuments
of Roman court architecture, with an imperial
palace, large temple, public buildings,
granary, warehouses... And they have only
scratched the surface in Gam zi gra d.
Like muse or goddess: Autumn games
in Gam zi gra d, celebrating abundance and
plenty
EASTERN SERBIA
139

Ne­go­tin ­ske v i­ni­ce: Old settlements of wine makers, in several Negotin
villages, have become famous and very attractive for connoisseurs
of wine and unusual journeys
Ka­pi­je Vrat­ne: Pre ra sts are natural stone bridges, most often at
points where karst rivers narrow into gorges. It is believed that they
were created by the falling of cave ceilings or through activity of
underground rivers. In East Serbia they can be found in several
places. Va lja Pre rast, 12 kilometers from Maj dan pe k, is 26 meters
high and is a true attraction. Near Ne go ti na, in the Vrat na gorge,
one of the most beautiful in Serbia, there are three of them. There
are about thirty meters high.
EASTERN SERBIA
141

Ethno: On the Mla va, reflective. Girls from Ti mo k. Violin concert
in Ce re mo šnja cave. Children play in Ku ča je. Playing an instrument
called r i ka lo, below Rt anj
A girl in wolf’s skin: Customs in East Serbia are a picturesque
expression of the long “remembrance of the race” and numerous
ethno-cultural layers
142 EASTERN SERBIA

Around the east: Museum in So ko ba nja. Birth house of composer
Ste va n Mo kranj ac in Ne go ti n. The White Ti mok and old district
in Knja žev ac
Z a­je­čar : Central square in this city and National Museum, a repository
containing significant part of the findings from the imper
i a l Feli x R omuliana
EASTERN SERBIA
145

Mitrovac
Bučje
D. Babine
Kremna
Bajina
Bašta
Šljivovica
Mokra Gora
G. Jablanica
Priboj
UŽICE
Mravinci
Jakalj
Kosjerić
Čajetina
Prijepolje
Lunovo
Selo
Požega
Sevojno
Družetići
Rožanstvo
Sirogojno
Šarenik
Ljubiš Visoka
Jasenovo
Nova Varoš
Aljnovići
Jančići
Arilje
Prilike
Ivanjica
Opaljenik
Kladnica
Takovo
G. Milanovac
Lučani
Kravica
Guča
Međurečje
ČAČAK
Zaoke
Trešnjevica
Tolišnica
Mrčajevci
Slatina
Kaona
Vrmbaje
Bogutovac
Rudno
Koritnik
Sjenica
Duga Poljana
Osaonica
Mitrova Reka
Bačice
Suvi Do
Tutin
146 SOUTHWEST SERBIA

SOUTHWEST SERBIA
If one territory is marked by mountain beauties such as Zla ti bor and Zla tar, Ja vor and
Go li ja, if it is topped by White Angel (Mileševa Monastery) and Blue Angel (Arilje
Monastery), if it is baptized by such waters like the Dri na, Lim, Uvac, Rzav, Mo ra vi ca,
then we should summon poets for help. And this area is exactly like that.
Its ten cities and municipalities have a population of about 340,000, most of them in
the territory of Uži ce (83,000), Pri je po lje (42,000), Iva nji ca (36,000) and Po že ga (32,000).
Vast majority are Serbs, and Muslim majority lives in Sje ni ca and Tu ti n.
A true regional centre here is Uži ce, a town founded in 1866. It has the old Al toma
no vi ć Fortress, National Theatre, Museum, Library, City Gallery. It has the Đe ti nja
River and unforgettable summers on it, spectacular jumps from the Old Railway Bridge
and a large number of important cultural and tourist gatherings. It leans on Zla ti bor
Mountain, one of the first great tourist centers in Serbia, which for the most part belongs
to Ča je ti na municipality. Zla ti bor ski and hiking trails, small lake and sports centers, hote
ls, healthcare programs, idyllic landscapes, herds and healthy food have been attracted
a large number of guests for decades. And the experienced guests, when they com ehere,
will certainly visit workshops of Zlatibor weavers in Si ro goj no, “Prosciutto Fair” in Mačka
t, Pot pećak and Sto pi ć cave.
In the vicinity of Po že ga, it is nice to visit Go do vik Monastery (13 th century) and logchurch
in Go ro bi lje (18 th century). In Ari lje, one of the centers of rural ethno-tourism
in Serbia, unavoidable is the Church of St. Ahi li je (13 th century), endowment of king
Dra gu ti n Ne ma nji ć, together with its Blue Angel and portrait of the donor from 1296.
Iva nji ca, a town sprouted from Ča vi ć house in the 19 th century, today can be proud of
its old centre, waterfall on the Mo ra vi ca within the city, “Nu ši ć Days” in September,
when comediographers and satirical writers take over the government for a short time.
Important temples in the city and its vicinity are dedicated to St. Stephan, Transfiguration,
archangels, St. Nicholas, holy healers Cosmas and Damian. In the village of Ku ma ni ca,
14 kilometers south from the city, there is a notable stone Old Bridge, called Roman
Bridge by local people.
Between Zla ta r and Ti kva, not far from the spring of the Bi stri ca, No va Va roš has
tucked in. The lower part of its main street is an authentic cultural and historical unit,
with a church from the 19 th century. In its vicinity is Džu ro vo, called Jerina’s Town by the
locals, a fortress from where the Lim Basin used to be controlled. The Uvac River flows
not far from the city, the largest right tributary of the Lim, wit unusually wound-up
course, adorned with three beautiful lakes: Uvač ko, Zla tar sko, Ra do inj sko. In the canyon
of this stunning river there is the biggest preserved colony of griffon vulture in Europe.
When in Pri bo j, you will not be sure where to go first. To the beneficial Pri boj ska
Ba nja or Nemanjić’s Ba nja Monastery, to the mine of native copper in Jar movac or to
the Pot peć ko Lake on the Li m. And prepare yourself for Pri je po lje! Set aside entire day
for Mi le še va Monastery and the White Angel, and at least as much time if you go along
the river to visit the Lim monasteries (Ku ma ni ca, Da vi do vi ca, Mi li...). Below Ja dov ni k,
there are spectacular waterfalls of the So pot ni ce, about thirty meters high, whereas Kame
na go ra and the village of Ti či je Po lje are also nearby. Truly enchanting landscapes
and a live ethnographic museum. And the area of Sjenica and Tutin are marked by Pešte
r, the “Serbian Tibet”, a vast plateau famous for its cheese, herds of cattle and horses,
and sharp winters.
SOUTHWEST SERBIA
147

Z la­ku ­s e : Half way between Po že ga and Uži ce, 185 kilometers
from Belgrade, there is the “Third Yard”, one of the beautiful ethnovillages
in Serbia open for tourists
Uvac Monastery: Old shrine near the village of Stu blo, below Crni
Vrh in Priboj, on the border between Pri boj and Ča je ti na municipalities.
Of unclear origin, rebuilt and consecrated on the Nativity
of the Holy Theotokos in 1998, after more than 300 years, now an
appendage of Stu de ni ca Monastery.
The Uvac Lake: Created after the partitioning of the Uvac, near
the village of Ak ma či ći, 25 kilometers long, up to 108 meters deep,
at the altitude of 985 meters
SOUTHWEST SERBIA
151

Pe­šter : A plateau southeast from Sje ni ca, the “Serbian Ti bet”, 63
square kilometers, at the altitude of 1,100-1,250 meters. “Covered
with vast pastures, speckled with an occasional grove, hamlet, parcel
of mountain grains, this area has long been known for its farmers,
cheese, sharp winters...”
Waterfalls of the Sopotnica: In the village with the same name,
17 kilometers from Pri je po lje, this small river, on its short journey
to the Lim, covers a great difference in altitude and creates several
beautiful waterfalls. The largest one is about 30 meters high. During
the summer, when heat takes over, this small one, vas we can see,
can be quite useful.
152 SOUTHWEST SERBIA

Iva­nji­ca : In September, during “Nušić’s
Days”, the mayor temporarily hands the keys
of the city, this symbol of power, to the theatrical
Bra ni sla v Nu ši ć and the humorists,
and the streets are full of “gentlemen and
ladies, like actors that just came down from
the stage...”
Uži­ce: The remains of medieval town on
the ridge above the Đe ti nja and mo der n
Uži ce in the valley, re gi o nal centre of this
part of Serbia
154 SOUTHWEST SERBIA

Not an advertisement, not a movie: Idyllic
scenes from the life on Zla ti bo r and Zla ta r
Si­ro­goj­no: Zla ti bor sweaters made of
wool, formerly displayed around the world,
became known far and wide
Before the storm: Two rainbows in Sta ri
Vl ah
SOUTHWEST SERBIA
157

Ratković
Lučani
ČAČAK
Mrčajevci
Guncati
Guča
Zaoke
Slatina
KRALJEVO
Godačica
Ivanjica
Trešnjevica Kaona
Tolišnica
Bogutovac
Mataruška
Banja
Kamenica
Gračac
Vrnjačka
Banja
Vrmbaje
Ušće
Rudno
Duga Poljana
Koritnik
Mitrova Reka
Raška
Brzeće
Belo Brdo
Osaonica
N. Pazar
Bačice
160 VALLEY OF THE KINGS
Duboka
Leposavić

VALLEY OF THE KINGS
he first Serbia and first archbishopric, first-crowned king and immortal
“Tendowments, rivers from songs and far famed medicinal waters are the symbols
of this important area. Stu de ni ca and Ži ča, Sta ri Ras and Đur đe vi stu po vi, hermitages
and first printed books, all that is waiting for you here, where many centuries ago people
used to come by roads dressed in lilacs”, says the travel writer. “Really, if you happen to
come here by the road along the Ibar River in May, you will remember it for the beauty
of lilac and its scent. According to legend, it was planted here in such a large number by
Serbian king Uroš I (reigned 1243-1276), along the road on which his future wife Je le na,
from the House of Anjou, came to Žiča from the coastal area for the first time. All the
things that can be done for a smile or golden tear of a princess. This also proves that being
a king is not a matter of rule, but rank.”
Such historical thread and such legend weave together this area, which today has a
population of little over 260,000, mostly in the area of Kra lje vo (122,000), No vi Pa za r
(86,000), Ra ška and Vr njač ka Ba nja (about 27,000).
Kra lje vo coat of arms has seven crowns (just like seven doors used to be built through
the nearby Ži ča Monastery, for the corronatin ceremonies, and then built in again).
This city used to be Ja nok (as early as 10 th century), and Ru do po lje, and Ka ra no vac, and
since 1882, when Serbia was proclaimed a kingdom once again, it has been carrying
its true, royal name. This city, whose radial first plan was first drawn by duke Mi loš
Obre no vić, with a cane in a casserole filled with sand, is today an important cultural,
educational, commercial and tourist centre. In the territory of this city there are Ma ta ruška
and Bo gu to vač ka Ba nja, spa centers well known for their healing properties, and in
the neighborhood there is Vr njač ka banja, the undeniable queen of Serbian spa tourism.
Nevertheless, everything in Kra lje vo is marked by Ži ča Monastery, six kilometers away,
endowment of Ste fa n Pr vo ven ča ni (reigned 1195-1223), the son of Ne ma nja and brother
of Sava. He was crowned in this monastery as the first king of the baptized medieval
Serbian state, and here, after gaining independence in 1219, there was the first seat of
Serbian archbishopric. There used to be the seat of Saint Sa va, who used to ordinate
bishops of newly founded dioceses there. After the First-Crowned, seven other Serbian
kings were “anointed and wed with royal iron” in Žiča.
Thirty kilometers to the south-west, on the top of inaccessible hill and the Ibar canyon,
there are remains of Ma gli č, one of the best preserved medieval Serbian fortifications
(from 1240).
In the heart of old Raška, 11 kilometers north-west from the town of Ušće, along the
Stu de ni ca creek, there is Stu de ni ca Monastery. It was founded by Ste fan Ne ma nja (Saint
Si me on Mi ro to či vi), the founder of holy Ne ma nji ć dynasty. His relics are kept there,
in the monastery Church of Our Lady (one of three), newar the relics of his wife, holy
mother Anastasia, and their sons Vu ka n and Ste fa n Pr vo ven ča ni. Fifteen kilometers away,
there is Studenica hermitage of Saint Sava, also a great Serbian relic.
Among other relics in this area, it is important to mention monasteries Kon ču lić and
Gra dac, near Ra ška, from the 13 th century, endowment of Je le na Ne ma njić (Anjou), and Nova
Pa vli ca (14 th century). Near No vi Pa za r there is Sta ri Ras, the birthplace of the Nemanjić
Serbia, and in the immediate vicinity there are extremely important holy sites Peter’s
Church (9 th century; the only remaining church from Serbia before the Nemanjić dynasty),
Đur đe vi stu po vi (12 th century), So po ća ni (13 th century), Cr na Re ka (14 th century).
VALLEY OF THE KINGS
161

A string of sacral pearls: Đ urđ ev i stup ov i
(12 th century), Peter’s Church (14 th century),
Gra dac (13 th century), Cr na Re ka (14 th century,
rebuilt in 16 th century)
Stu­de­ni­ca , 12 th century: The most important
endowment of Ste fa n Ne ma nja (Saint
Si me o n Mi ro to či vi) in Serbia, the founder of
Serbian medieval holy dynasty, whose relics
are kept here
Upper hermitage of Saint Sava: In this
spiritual centre, on a high cliff above the Savo
šni ca creek, 15 kilometers to the northeast
from Stu de ni ca, the greatest spiritual leaders
and hermits among monks used to gather,
following the example of mystic fraternities
of the Holy Mountain
164 VALLEY OF THE KINGS

Ma­g lič : Medieval guardian of the road
through the canyon of the Ibar. The fortress,
the remains of which we can see today,
was built on the place of an older one by
archbishop Da ni lo II, who also built the St.
George Church, Bishop’s Palace and monastic
cells on the same location
Ži­ča Monastery, 13 th century: The first seat
of Serbian Archbishopric, the place where
seven Serbian kings were crowned
VALLEY OF THE KINGS
167

Obedience: Life of monks in So po ća ni and Cr na Re ka
Prayer: Someone, with their prayers and humbleness, every moment
watches over all these shrines, also representing us, the way
we are, where it is the most important
168 VALLEY OF THE KINGS

Health and pleasure: Panor ama of Mat ar uška B anj a . B elimarko -
vi ć Palace (Castle of Culture) and the square in front of the elite
Special Hospital “Mer kur” in Vr njač ka Ba nja
Vr ­njač­ka B a­nja: The queen of Serbian spa tourism
Above the clouds: Royal view from Ko pa o ni k toward the Valley
of the Kings
VALLEY OF THE KINGS
171

Godačica
Belušić
Grabovo
LJEVO
amenica
Gračac
Medveđa
Trstenik
Brezovica
G. Rataje
Aleksandrovac
Brus
Milutovac
V. Drenova
KRUŠEVAC
Razbojna
Varvarin Ćićevac
Jasika
Ravnište
G. Jošanica
E75
Deligrad
Kaonik
Ražanj
Šiljegovac
Vrbovac
Mozgovo
Jakovlje
Aleksinac
Beli Breg
Soko Banja
Prekonozi
Vrelo
Miljkovac
NIŠ
Brzeće
Belo Brdo
Merčez
Blace
Barbatovac
Kuršumlija
V. Plana
Prokuplje
Žitorađa
Brestovac
Dubovo
Duboka
Leposavić
Palatna
Rudare
Dobra Voda
Zlata
LESKOVAC
174 RASINA AND TOPLICA
Bajgora
KOSOVSKA
MITROVICA
Podujevo
Lebane

RA SI NA AND TO PLI CA
Wealth and lights of this area can best be seen, according to those who are awake
and who know, through unsurpassable rosettes of its churches. Or from those
beautiful local domes of the Morava School of architecture, which everywhere direct your
eyes toward that “immense blue circle...” “Here was the throne of Ste fan Ne ma nja before
the birth of Nemanjić Serbia, duke La zar used to reign here before the Battle of Kosovo.
Enclosed by the Western and Southern Morava, Ko pa o ni k and Ja strebac, parishes and
fortresses, this area spreads from Tro mo ra vlje toward Ko so vo and from mo der n toward
eternal Serbia. Or vice versa. You can choose directions and methods by yourself, but
everywhere you will find plenty of noble soil, your piece of the Sun and friendly people.”
Twelve cities and municipalities of this area have a population of almost 430,000, most
of them in the territory of Kru ševac (130,000), Alek sinac (58,000), Pro ku plje (51,000) and
Tr ste ni k (50,000).
The Holy Duke always used to start from his fortified capital Kru ševac, both along the
Mo ra va and along the Ra si na. Vuilt in six years (from 1371 to 1377), in a hurry, punder
ominous shadows of the expected Ottoman invasion, the city occupied an area of five
hectares. Today, all we can see there is a beautiful palace church La za ri ca and remains of the
donjon tower. Kru še vac us today a modern regional centre. Its city centre is adorned with
the famous Monument to Kosovo heroes, the work of Đor đe Jo va no vi ć, who wan Golden
Medal at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 for this work. The statue of a girl at the foot
of this monument, a personification of Serbia, is still facing Kosovo, just like 110 years ago.
And when you go down from Gle dić Mountains toward Western Mo ra va, near Trstenik
there is Lju bo sti nja Monastery, endowment of duchess Mi li ce, who took her monastic
vows here after the Battle of Kosovo. Equally beautiful and significant are monasteries
Ve lu ća (between Tr ste ni k, Alek san drov c and Kru šev ac) and Na u pa ra, 12 kilometers south
from the old capital.
In Var va ri n, take a moment before the monument to the well-known uprising hero
Jo va n Kur su la, and near the bridge over the Mo ra va, where innocent people were killed
in cold blood, from far above, during the aggression on Serbia in 1999. In Ći ćev ac, listen
to legends about Vo den-Bi k and visit Todor’s Tower, a remain of medieval fortified city
of Sta la ć. Near Ra žanj, in the village of Pra skov če, visit the Monastery of Saint Roman,
whose relics are kept here, and Bo go ro di ca Đu ni ska is also in the vicinity. When you
go up Moj sinj e Mountain, you will quickly understand why it is also called the Holy
Mountain. Entire Alek si nac is marked by its mines, delig rad dikes, Bovan fortress and
lakes... In the nearby village of Adrovac is the grave of colonel Rayevsky, Tolstoy’s Count
Vronsky from Ana Karenina.
Alek san dro vac lives in the rhythm of its parish and wines, its wine settlements called
po­lja­ne , and it is especially beautiful in the fall, during harvest festivals. Brus contains
in itself Kopaonik beauties, Bla ce gracefully holds the intersection and the shortest way
from Toplice to Kruševac ravine, and they both reflect in the Će li je Lake. Pro ku plje, at the
foot of Hi sar Fortress and Jug Bog da n Tower, keeps the relics of St. Pro ko pi je, after whom
it was named. In Kur šu mli ja, special attraction is the Church of St. Nicholas from the mid
12 th century, the first large endowment of Ste fa n Ne ma nja.
Finally, this part of Serbia is specially marked by its spa centers (Ri bar ska, Lu kovska,
Kur šu mlij ska, Pro lom), as well as Đa vo lja va roš, natural attraction at the foot of the
magical Ra dan Mountain.
RASINA AND TOPLICA
175

The capital of Moravska: Remains of the donjon tower of Lazar’s
city in Kruševac. A monument to Duke La za r, work of Ne boj ša Mitri
ć (1931-1989). Palace church La za ri ca, built in 1377, honoring the
birth of duke’s son Ste fa n La za re vi ć, and dedicated to archdeacon
and martyr Ste fa n
A little knight from Lazar’s city: „Just like with true nobleness, teh
knighthood brings out what we already carry in ourselves. It also
happens that, when facing big challenges, we are surprised to learn
that it is actually us.”
Ć e­li­je : This beautiful lake was created when the dam was built
on the Rasina River, in Zla tar Gorge, in 1979
RASINA AND TOPLICA
179

Aleksandrovac parish: It is mentioned by Ste fan Ne ma nja in
Studenica Charter from the 12th century, when he gave several
nearby vineyard villages to Stu de ni ca Monastery. Both Ži ča and
Hi lan dar had their vineyards and cellars here. Duke La zar kept his
cellars on Kru še vi ca field... Tamjanika and prokupac are most frequently
grown today, but also župski bojadiser, sme de rev ka, sauvignon,
semillon, žu pljan ka, neo plan ta, chardonnay, Italian Riesling...
Beauty of Kopaonik: A girl from Bru s
180 RASINA AND TOPLICA

Between mountains and spas: A small lake at Rav ni šte on Jastrebac.
A pool in Ri bar ska Ba nja and spring in Lu kov ska Ba nja
On the Great Jastrebac: Excursion grounds Rav ni šte, favorite
among people from Kruševac
RASINA AND TOPLICA
183

Winter idyll: Scenes from Ko pa o ni k, the largest mountain centre
in Serbia
In Stalać Gorge: Sailing in a boat down the South Mo ra va, in the
vicinity of its confluence with the West Morava
Đ a­vo­lja va­roš: Over two hundred very rare earth towers, between
two and fifteen meters high, not far from Kur šu mli ja. Science,
that old grouch, has its sullen explanations, but folk legends
are much more exciting.
184 RASINA AND TOPLICA

Kravlje
Popšica
Cerje
G. Toponica
Leskovik
E75
Trupale
Hum
Kamenica
Lalinac
G. Matejevac
N. Selo
NIŠ
D. Vrežina
E80
Aleksandrovo
Čokot
Merošina
Gabrovac
Niška Banja
E75
Orljane
Malošište
Gadžin Han
S e l i č e v i c a
Doljevac
G. Barbeš
Kraslavce
188 NIŠ

NIŠ
This ancient city, “significant since inception”, has been keeping its life thread and
legend ever since the buban-humska culture, through times of Dardanians, Celts,
Romans, Byzantine, Hungarian, to Slavic, or Serbian, which have lasted for decades. At least
four Roman emperors were born in this city, Na i su s, Ni š, or in its surroundings: Claudius
II Gothicus (reigned 268-270), Flavius Severus (305-307), Constantine the Great (306-
337), Constantius III (421). Most important among them is certainly Constantine the
Great, the one who “baptized the Empire” in its Edict of Milan from 313, and essentially
changed the fate of Europe. Therefore, the historian does not exaggerate when he says the
following, albeit personally, about Niš:
“The hometown of the most important of all Roman emperors, the largest preserved
old fortress and third largest town in today’s Serbia, big commercial and cultural centre.
Loyal to the south from which it has grown, open for challenges of the time, traditionally
modern and modernly traditional, fragile in its soul and fervent in song, a reveler, whirling
both in sorrow and joy, this is one of the most attractive Serbian cities.”
In ancient times, it was a rich city and an important intersection. It used to feed itself,
exploited its mines, had a weapons factory and workshops for the manufacturing of
objects made of precious metals. Its residential area, Me di ja na, was five kilometers to the
east from the centre, outside the town... Numerous findings from these sites are kept at
the National Museum in Ni š and National Museum in Belgrade. Early Christian tombs in
the city itself and in Niška Banka arte also from this period, as well as the early Christian
basilica with martyrium.
All historical accounts of Niš mentioned that in this town, in 1189, great Serbian
Prefect Ste fan Ne ma nja received Germany Emperor Friedrich I Barbarossa, who passed
through this area leading the army in a Crusader campaign. “In Niš, Ste fan Ne ma nja built
the Church of St. Pan te lej mo n, on the foundations of which a new temple was built in
the 19 th century. From 1241, Niš was under Serbian rule for a long time. Ottoman army
conquered it in 1385, after the siege that lasted almost one month.”
In the First Serbian Uprising, the famous battle took place at the nearby Čegar in 1809.
It is remembered for the unimaginable heroism and martyrdom of Duke Ste va n Sin đe li ć
and his rebels from Resava, but also for the horrifying Će le-ku la in the city itself, which
was built by the Turks from the skulls of killed Serbian soldiers.
The NIš Fortress, whose remains we can see today, was built by Turks in the 18 th
century (1719-1723). The overtaking of this fortress by the Serbian army of duke (and
soon afterwards the king) Mi la n Obre no vi ć, which happened on January 11 th , 1878,
marked the final liberation. From then on, the city developed fast, growing into a modern
European city. Schools are opened, Niš becomes the seat of the diocese, savings banks
and factories are operational, railway arrives, the Assembly of the Principality frequently
holds its sessions here, buildings of today’s University are being built, as well as buildings
of the District Office and Pasteur Institute. Today, Niš is a strong regional centre, “the
southern capital”. The city area has a population of about 265,000. it has a University,
National Museum, National Theatre, Film Encounters, Jazz and Blues Festival... Niška
Ba­nja, thermal water is the most prominent in its tourist offer... Nearby are canyons of
the Si će vac and Je la šnica, precious archaeological sites, caves, Christian relics... Among
numerous people who brought fame to the city of Niš, everybody will mention writer
Ste va n Srem ac, poet Bran ko Milj ko vi ć, musician Ša ba n Baj ra mo vi ć...
NIŠ
189

Scenes from the city: Bridge over the Niša
va, a view from the Fortress. “Kal ča” Shopping
Center. University building. Night in
the centre
Southern capital and the capital of the South:
A part of the panoramic view of the city
The core: Pier on the Ni ša va
192 NIŠ

The spirit of old Niš: Images from Ka zandžij
sko so ka če
The city is also famous for them: A monument
to writer Ste va n Srem ac, famous local
hunter Kal ča (the main character in Ivko’s
Feast) and his dog Ča pa
NIŠ
195

Me­di­ja­na : Five kilometers from today’s city centre, it used to be
the summer residential district in the Roman Na i su s. Theatrical Roman
in Niš today. Christian Orthodox icon of Holy Emperor Constantine
and Empress Je le na, his mother
Hometown of the Emperor: Head of Roman Emperor Constantine,
a finding from Niš
NIŠ
197

Ni ­ška B a­nja: About ten kilometers east from Ni š, at the foot of
Ko rit nja k, on the slopes of Suva Mountain, known for its blessings
since the Roman times. “It cures everything, mostly the soul”, say
people from Niš and wink.
Cascades: Near Hotel “Ra don”, warm mineral water falls in cascades
and drifts away. It is probably the most famous of all photographs
of Ni ška Ba nja.
The core, evening: Pier on the Ni ša va
198 NIŠ

Beli Breg
Miljkovac
NIŠ
Svljig
Kalna
Pajež
Ravno Bučje
Balta Berilovac
jevo
V. Plana
Prokuplje
Žitorađa
Dubovo
Zlata
Dobra Voda
Medveđa
Bojnik
LESKOVAC
Lebane
Miroševce
Brestovac
Gadžin Han
E75
Vučje
Donji
Dušnik
Bela
Palanka
Ravna
Dubrava
Vlasotince
Glama
Crna Trava
Babušnica
Orlja
E80
Temska
Raljin
Zvonce
Jabukovik
Kalna
Pirot
Sukovo
Dojkinci
Dimitrovgrad
Smilovci
Visočka Ržana
Tulare
Golemo Selo
Vladičin Han
Surdulica
Ajnovce
Novo Brdo
Gnjilane
Klokot
Letnica
Bujanovac
Preševo
G. Šipašnica
G. Kačarevo
E75
VRANJE
Petka
Kobrevac
Vranjska Banja
D. Trebišnje
Prohor
Pčinjski
Trgovište
Kriva Feja
G. Ljubata
D. Stajevac
Radovnica
Bistar
Izvor
Bosilegrad
202 SOUTHEAST SERBIA

SOUTHEAST SERBIA
etween the Morava River basin in Ko sov o and the border with Bulgaria, between
“BNiš and border with Macedonia, this picturesque area has preserved in itself many
other forgotten layers and unexpected gifts. It is one of the most temperamental Serbian
regions, has its specific dialect, cuisine, music, traditional clothes. Its view of the world is
between the eastern to be and western to do, between engaging in philosophy and rebellion.
Colorful from the inside, harmonious in its rumpledness, knows how to blow a horn, load
with powder, spice up. And then it bursts in flames, starts dancing, singing and crying.”
Sixteen cities and municipalities of this region have a population of about 580,000,
most of them Serbs. Most populous areas are Le skov ac (162,000), Vra nje (87,000), Pi ro t
(64,000) and Bu ja nov ac (43,000).
In gastronomy of this region, you will find many things that cannot be found anywhere
else. Vranj e tr­lja­ni­ce , ta ra ne, pro­pe­ći, sam se (pies with yoghurt and garlic), Leskovac mućka
li ce, bargecue, Pirot lamb, “ironed sausages”, ču­ka­ne steaks, hard cheese, g r uvane bell
peppers and šu špe (stuffed dry bell peppers), aspic made of broad beans, stuffed vine
leaves, liver in skim, sheep cheese from the Old Mountain and from Za pla nje, v ur ­njak
bread baked with potatoes in earth oven... Along with the food, you should choose
rakia and wine from this region, because they go the best with this cuisine. And do not,
according to the advice from that famous man from Čubura, fall asleep afterwards in
the grass, under the walnut tree, until the first dew. Because your journey through the
Southeast has just began.
Le sko vac, which used to be called Serbian Manchester because of its powerful textile
industry, is also famous for its bell peppers and barbeque. Some of the most important
symbols of the city are the Monument to Serbian soldiers from liberation wars 1912-1918,
and Orthodox Cathedral of Holy Trinity. Some of the best preserved old edifices is the
house of Bo ra Di mi tri je vi ć (today the Museum) and house of Šop-Đo ki ć, both from the
19 th century, house of Lju ba Ma rin ko vi ć (today the Commercial Court), villa Te o ka re vi ć,
house of To ma Stan ko vi ć, three-story Garet’s palace. Four kilometers to the east from the
city there is Rudare Monastery, and thirteen kilometers to the northeast there are well
known Ja šunj a monasteries. Not far from Le skov ac, between Le ba ne and Boj ni k, there
are remains of the magnificent Empress’s City, which was built by Byzantine emperor
Justinian in the vicinity of the village of Ta u ri so n in which he was born. Near Me dve đa
there is Si ja rin ska Ba nja, famous for its three geysers and and medicinal thermal waters.
In Vra nje, the enchanting town which is a literary hero from Anna Komnene in the
11 th until Bo ra Stan ko vi ć in the 20 th century, sometimes you will not be sure whether you
are walking through a city or someone’s Romanesque picture of a city. You should start
checking from the most famous ones: Paša’s Residence, White Bridge, the house of Bo ra
Stan ko vi ć, building of District Office from 1908. And the nearby Vranj ska Ba nja water is
the warmest in Europe (96-100 degrees Celsius). Experts and hedonists also recommend
Bu ja no vač ka and Zvo nač ka ba nja. And geographers and geo-poets open their notebooks:
the Ve ter ni ca, Ja bla ni ca, South Mo ra va, Pči nja, Vla si na and Ni ša va rivers, Sta ra, Su va, Vidlič,
Ku ka vi ca, Če mer nik, Var de nik, Du kat and Ko zjak mountains, Si će vač ka, Gr de lič ka
canyons, Vla sin sko, and Za voj sko lakes... At 37 kilometers from Tr go vi šte and at the same
distance from Vranje, there is Pro hor Pčinj ski monastery, a great Serbian shrine.
If you have not been there before, you should end this journey in Pirot. You will find
out why. (“There is nothing as powerful as making the full stop at the right place.”)
SOUTHEAST SERBIA
203

The Vlasina Lake: About thirty kilometers to the east from Vladi
či n Ha n and the basin of the South Mo ra va, at the altitude of as
much as 1,214 meters, spreading over 16 square kilometers. Its surroundings
are a true pearl of the nature.
The Za­voj­sko Lake: At the foot of Stara Planina, 17 kilometers to
the north from Pi ro t, about 20 kilometers long, and at some points
up to three kilometers wide
Abundant pastures: Herds on Stara Planina
SOUTHEAST SERBIA
207

Beautiful, simple, picturesque: Traditional male cloths from Pirot
area. A girl at a spring. Modern fashion collection inspired by motifs
of Pirot carpets. Fishing on the Vi so či ca River
Empire of the best bell peppers in Serbia: The village of Do nja Loko
šni ca near Le skov ac
208 SOUTHEAST SERBIA

Old Balkan architecture: The house of Bor
a D imit r ij ev ić in L eskovac , d ato d ay t he National
Museum (19 th century). Birth house
of w r ite r B or a St ankov ić in Vr anj e, B ab a -
Zla ti na Street no. 9. Hri sti ć’s house in Pi ro t
(19 th century), from 1947. Museum of the
Nišava Region, and restaurant “Lad na vo da”
in this city.
Empress’s City (reconstruction): Emperor
Just inian bui lt t his hometow n , Just iniana
Pri ma, in the vicinity of today’s Le ba ne, with
an intention to turn it into the administrative
centre of Illyria
210 SOUTHEAST SERBIA

Vi ­si­ne : A tour in jeeps over mountains
Če mer nik and Be sna ko bi la. Small church
Pre sve ta Bo go ro di ca at Vraž ji ka me n near
Trgov ište ( 1 4 th century). Photographer-geopoet
on Stara Planina
Vraž­ji ka­men: Powerful fifty meters high
cone-like rocks rise on the right bank of the
Pčinja, less than two kilometers downstream
from Tr go vi šte. On the top of one of them
there is the said small church, on the very
edge of the abyss.
B e­sna ko­bi­la: A herd of wild horses on
the eastern slopes of this mountain with unusual
name, above the village of Bo ži ca, in
the direction of Bo si le gra d
SOUTHEAST SERBIA
213

Leposavić
Kosovska
Mitrovica
Peć
Dečani
Vrela
Istok
Banja
Bela
Polja
Đurakovac
Klina
G. Klina
Srbica
Glogovac
Orlate
Vučitrn
Obilić
Kos.
Polje
Podujevo
Priština
Kos.
Kamenica
Đakovica
Orahovac
Suva
Reka
Štimlje
Uroševac
Gnjilane
Štrpce
Prizren
216 KOSOVO AND METOHIJA

KO SO VO AND ME TO HI JA
Ko so vo and Me to hi ja is not only the southern province of the Republic of Serbia, area
that is the subject of international-legal and international-political dispute. For Serbs,
it is the country of exceptional significance and meaning, mythical and archetypal country,
country that embodies in itself all Serbian history and destiny, all battles and all judgments,
the most lustrous peaks and the most heart stirring suffering. The country that spreads
between the Serbs and the Sky. “The country of temples and the temple country. The
country of feats and sacrificial country. The country of Crucifixion and Resurrection. The
stone-sacrament that is built into the foundation and without which it is not possible to
survive into the storms of this world...” Since time immemorial, every event in Ko so vo and
Me to hi ja has the contour of an archetypal image and meta-historical connotation, every
word spoken there is heard in the entire universe, every act concerns the entire Creation.
Since the summer of 1999, when this area was placed under protection and protectorate
of the UN, over 140 Christian Orthodox Serbian churches and monasteries have been
destroyed barbarically and maliciously! Over 140! Out of that, 15 were first class cultural
monuments (built in the 14 th , 15 th and 16 th century). Only in the so-called March pogrom
in 2004, 19 cultural and spiritual monuments were destroyed, out of that six highest
ranking ones!
That is why we repeat that Kosovo is a crucified country. That is why we say that it
is a country where it is the most difficult to find testimony to Christ in today’s Europe.
A European region in which European values are the most endangered. Other books,
easily available to everybody who honors truth, have long substantiated this with a sad
abundance of facts.
Despite all this, or juts because of it, we will invite you today to travel there as to a
holy land. To set aside everything there that is transient and accidental and to see it and
feel it as such, for your own sake. Some of the most beautiful medieval Christian shrines
were built in Ko so vo and Me to hi ja. The Pec Patriarchy, Gra ča ni ca, Banj ska, Vi so ki De čani,
Ar han ge li... They were built by Serbian rulers, church dignitaries, noblemen, as their
endowments and burial churches. In their architecture, frescoes and icons, Serbia reached
the peaks of world medieval art.
“Who is able to tell about the power of God?... He was loved by our fathers who
put their faith in him, relied on him and saved themselves because, abandoning their
interest in everything that is mundane and accepting spiritual reason and fear of God,
they replaced the mundane kingdom with heavenly life and everlasting glory, leaving on
this earth memories that are praiseworthy.”
We halt today, deep in thoughts, over these words from the founding charter of the
important Serbian monastery Vi so ki De ča ni, juts like we always, again and again, halt
enchanted in front of the beauty of this temple.
Is it possible to travel to Ko so vo and Me to hi ja today at all? The movement is limited,
caution and organization are necessary, compliance with strict safety measures is
mandatory bez bed no sti, but to travel to and be inspired by Ko so vo is a necessity.
There, in Ko so vo and Me to hi ja, is the foundation of Serbian soul, ethics, faith, culture,
state. Serbian One, from which everything else was derived. And no resolutions, declarations,
opinions and bombings can change that. Everything else is just a matter of time. Everyone
who is not able to understand that – did not understand anything about Serbia.
KOSOVO AND METOHIJA
217

Isi­ja­va­nje : A reliquary with the relics of
holy k ing Stef ana D eč ansk i in D eč ani . Young
nun praying at the Peć Patriarchy
Vi ­s o­ki D e­ča­ni: Prayer over the Holy Table,
in the temple altar
The Peć Patriarchy, 13 th century: Monks’
endowment, from the second half of the 13 th
century (after destruction of Žiča) the seat
of Serbian Archbishopric, and afterwards
the seat of and Patriarchy
220 KOSOVO AND METOHIJA

In the temple and around it: Members of
Swedish KFOR battalion in front of Gra čani
ca. A little girl at the temple of this important
monastery. Prayer of the late Serbian
Patriarch Pavle (1914-2009) at Gračanica
Gra­ča­ni­ca Monastery, built in 1313: Endowment
of king Mi lu ti n Ne ma nji ć, the
greatest founder of churches and monasteries
among Serbian rulers
KOSOVO AND METOHIJA
223

The area of freedom, peace and European standards: Serbian procession
on the Day of Saint Demetrios in Ko sov ska Mi tro vi ca, on the Day
of the Protector of the City, guarded by heavily armed KFOR forces
New Temple: Church of Saint Dimitri in northern part of Ko sov ska
Mi tro vi ca, built in 2005, since the Church of Saint Sava in the southern
part of the sity, on the other side of the Ibar River, was burnt down in
March 2004
KOSOVO AND METOHIJA
225

Guardians of relics: “It happened that everything would quiet
down and everyone would disappear. Only the all-pervading
hum of prayer is heard from the dark. They have always been here,
monks in black cassocks, like a blackbird among birds, the last one
to go and the first one to return. They, monks and priests of the
Serbian church in Ko so vo and Me to hi ja, guardians of that last grain
from which everything will grow again... And they are still there, in
enclaves, surrounded, in great solitude, under threat day and night.
We should always think of them. By doing so, we do not help them,
but we help ourselves.”
In Visoki Dečani, waiting for the dawn: The sun will, of course,
be born again
226 KOSOVO AND METOHIJA

You have seen?
Do you recognize me?
I am Serbia. My poet says that I exist on the ground, underground
in the heavens. In ripe wheat, in icon, in the rain on St. George’s Day,
in the tears of those who do not cry. In hazel bush, basil, Saint Day
bread, in the quivering of bee’s feeler, in bread-like goodness of the
Cyrillic. I also exist, yes, in innocent laughter, ancient memories and
youthful hopes. In quiet mornings, thunders of battles, in gentleness
of wise scrolls.
“Ah, the poets!” you will wave your hand lightly. And then you
will be surprised with all the places where you will see me, find me.
You will begin to understand the meaning of my distrust toward
those who talk too much about themselves. And maybe, one day, ad
a day break, on a completely different journey, long certain that you
have forgotten me, you will suddenly realize that you carry inside
traces of me. That the covers of this book have folded, while you
remained inside. Maybe.
But, do not worry, my wounds will not hurt you. My hu mor does
not mock, my victories do not burn, my depts. are only mine and I
will not write them off. Before me, you do not have to justify yourself
if you have outright believed in all this nonsense about me. And
when difficult times and great injustices come, there is always room
for a guest here. From the heart.
Advice?
“If you kiss this ground with your feet, come.
If you step over it, go back, traveler.”
EPILOGUE
231

Publisher
“Prin cip Press”
Belgrade, Ce tinj ska 6
(+ 381 11) 322 70 34, 322 16 92
w w w. nac iona lnarev ij a . c om
For the publisher
Mi­š o Vu­j o­v i ć ,
Director and Editor in Chief
Editor
Br a­ni­sl av Ma­t i ć
Technical Editor
Alek­san­dar Ćo­sić
Cover and box design
Jo­van Želj­ko Ra­ja­čić
Photographs
Dra­gan Bo­snić, Aleksandar Radoš, Petar Vujanić, Željko Sinobad, Branko Jovanović,
Igor Markov, Svetlana Dingarac, Milan Janković, Života Ćirić, Fadil Šarki, Mišo Vujović,
Aleksandar Ćosić, Saša Maričić, Jaroslav Pap, Milan Konjević, Aleksandra Radonić,
Karlo Hameder, Aleksandar Ramovš, Goran Kovačević, Stanoje Radulović, Vlada Arsić,
Branislav Matić, archives of Visoki Dečani Monastery, of cities Zaječar, Beočin, Valjevo,
archives of “Merkur” and ZIG Novi Sad, archives of “National Review”
Illustrations
Mi ­ha­i l Ku ­l a­č i ć
Maps
Archives of “National Review”, Dra­gan Ko­zo­ma­ra
Translation
Irina Antanasijević (Russian), Jelena Plavšić (Spanish),
“Globe Translations” (English and French)
Press
“Por tal”, Belgrade
Belgrade,
2011

PUBLICATION PARTNERS:
SPECIAL HOSPITAL
Vrnjačka Banja
BELGRADE BUSINESS SCHOOL
Higher Education Institution for Applied Studies
INSTITUTE FOR DEVELOPMENT OF WATER RESOURCES „JAROSLAV ČERNI“
Department for dams, hydropower, mines and roads
ИНСТИТУТ ЗА ВОДОПРИВРЕДУ “ЈАРОСЛ
Завод за бране, хидроенергетику, руднике и са
CIP - Каталогизација у публикацији
Народна библиотека Србије, Београд
908(497.11)(084.12)
SERBIA - geo-poetical album / [editor
Branislav Matić ; photographs Dragan Bosnić
...[et al.] ; illustrations Mihail Kulačić ; maps
Dragan Kozomara]. - Belgrade : Princip
Press, 2011 (Belgrade : Portal). - [238] str.
: ilustr. ; 30 cm
Prevod dela: Srbija - geopoetički album. -
Podaci o autorima preuzeti iz kolofona. -
Tiraž 1.000.
ISBN 978-86-85215-96-4
1. Dop. nasl. 2. Srbija - geopoetički album [eng]
a) Србија - Албуми
COBISS.SR-ID 181865484

Serbia ◆ geo-poetical al bum
The book before you could be called an album, testimony, anthology of documents. it
does not want to persuade. it does not propagate, does not impose, does not spin. it is not a
pR, lawyer, blabby advertising agent. Neither is it a tourist reporter, steeped into phrases and
the type of self-termination called routine. Just like on a long and beautiful old-fashioned
journey, when you sit in a train and open curtains on the window, numerous images will be
unraveling in front of you. Watch them calmly and with curiosity, as an explorer, with your
eyes and eyes of those to whom you will be telling about the journey. Some of these images
you will remember right away, the others you will occasionally retrieve and restore your
fine connection, and maybe all of them will merge into one, into a large mosaic portrait of
Serbia that you will carry forever.
and do not forget the warning of one of the most ill-fortuned princes in world literature:
“it is only shallow people who do not judge by appearances. The true mystery of the world
is the visible, not the invisible.”