TRAVELLIVE 04-2016
Istanbul, the first days of spring… I’m warming myself in the sun on a café’s balcony in the Old Town. The sunbeams are as stunning as the fine strands of newly reeled silk. Meanwhile the old oak trees give their morning greeting to the glossy stone road as their red-brown leaves gently fall. The Old Town is still half-asleep, like a lazy girl who’s turned off her alarm after ringing the first time. Sunlight visits each street, dancing happily on passers-by’s shoulders, making the atmosphere more intimate to me – the traveler’s first time here. I feel more amorous in Istanbul. I’m enchanted by everything, from sweet lokum to the light sour ice-cream with ground ice on top, or from the gorgeous domes of hundreds of mosques and palaces to their uniquely designed windows, and from the discreet eyes of Muslim girls to the multitude of boards and posters with the images of Besiktas – the city’s legendary football team. I have fallen in love with Bosphorus Bay since the first time seeing the seagulls hovering in the open sky, creating invisible strings that connect the two continents – Asia and Europe. The clear blue sky is reflected on the deep blue sea, giving me tranquility. I drop my last Lira into the water of the Bosphorus, not to make a wish, but in hopes that they will preserve my memories here. And somehow, the water currents might bring them somewhere else to be found by me again, or might accidentally be stumbled upon by a boy who is playing with sand on a sunny beach. Tomorrow, I will go to Grand Bazzar, buy some postcards, and write something to leave beneath the sun near a mosque before sending them to some friends of mine. I do hope that these postcards, together with the coins, will inspire and attract more visitors to this land. Uhm… will you come there?
Istanbul, the first days of spring…
I’m warming myself in the sun on a café’s balcony in the Old Town. The sunbeams are as stunning as the fine strands of newly reeled silk. Meanwhile the old oak trees give their morning greeting to the glossy stone road as their red-brown leaves gently fall. The Old Town is still half-asleep, like a lazy girl who’s turned off her alarm after ringing the first time. Sunlight visits each street, dancing happily on passers-by’s shoulders, making the atmosphere more intimate to me – the traveler’s first time here.
I feel more amorous in Istanbul. I’m enchanted by everything, from sweet lokum to the light sour ice-cream with ground ice on top, or from the gorgeous domes of hundreds of mosques and palaces to their uniquely designed windows, and from the discreet eyes of Muslim girls to the multitude of boards and posters with the images of Besiktas – the city’s legendary football team.
I have fallen in love with Bosphorus Bay since the first time seeing the seagulls hovering in the open sky, creating invisible strings that connect the two continents – Asia and Europe. The clear blue sky is reflected on the deep blue sea, giving me tranquility. I drop my last Lira into the water of the Bosphorus, not to make a wish, but in hopes that they will preserve my memories here. And somehow, the water currents might bring them somewhere else to be found by me again, or might accidentally be stumbled upon by a boy who is playing with sand on a sunny beach.
Tomorrow, I will go to Grand Bazzar, buy some postcards, and write something to leave beneath the sun near a mosque before sending them to some friends of mine. I do hope that these postcards, together with the coins, will inspire and attract more visitors to this land. Uhm… will you come there?
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sau khi nhÀn b∏nh quy vµ ÆÊi lπi<br />
vµi ∏nh nh◊n th©n thi÷n, b‰n trŒ<br />
sÌm quen vÌi s˘ c„ m∆t cÒa t´i<br />
vµ trÎ lπi ch¨i ÆÔa vÌi n≠Ìc bi”n.<br />
Ng≠Íi Bajau c„ lœ lµ nh˜ng ng≠Íi<br />
dµnh nhi“u thÍi gian d≠Ìi n≠Ìc<br />
nh†t th’ giÌi. H‰ th˘c s˘ lµ nh˜ng<br />
nh©n ng≠, nh˜ng ng≠Íi chÿ c∂m<br />
th†y toµn vãn trong m´i tr≠Íng<br />
cÒa h‰: Æπi d≠¨ng.<br />
´i c„ th” d‘ dµng Æ’m<br />
Æ≠Óc sË bungalow trn<br />
hfln Æ∂o nµy, 11 nhµ t†t<br />
c∂. 11 ng´i nhµ nh· Æ≠Óc<br />
d˘ng gi˜a Ɔt li“n vµ<br />
bi”n. V“ sau, Karim cho<br />
t´i bi’t mÁi gia Æ◊nh c„ kho∂ng 5<br />
Ưa con. PhÙ n˜ sinh nÎ Î ngay<br />
nhµ cÒa h‰. H«u h’t nh˜ng ng≠Íi<br />
Bajau sinh ra, sËng vµ ch’t Æi tπi<br />
ch›nh m∂nh Ɔt cÒa h‰. CuÈc sËng<br />
chÿ xoay quanh vi÷c Æ∏nh c∏, h‰<br />
kh´ng c„ chÛt kh∏i ni÷m g◊ v“ vi÷c<br />
Ɖc, vi’t. M‰i ng≠Íi, b†t k” tuÊi<br />
t∏c, Æ“u c„ th” t◊m mÈt n¨i Æ” Î vµ<br />
Æ∏nh bæt c∏.<br />
TrŒ con sËng th≠Íng xuyn trn<br />
thuy“n h‰c c∏ch l∆n vµ b¨i trong<br />
khi nh˜ng Ưa h¨n 8 tuÊi bÀn<br />
rÈn vÌi vi÷c s®n bæn. Ng≠Íi Bajau<br />
kh´ng bi’t tuÊi cÒa h‰. H‰ c„<br />
kh∏i ni÷m s¨ bÈ v“ tuÊi t∏c nh≠ng<br />
kh´ng quan t©m g◊ nhi“u. H‰ chÿ<br />
Æ’m nh˜ng phÛt gi©y hi÷n tπi.<br />
T´i l†y m∏y ∂nh vµ chÙp lπi tıng<br />
kho∂ng khæc cÔng s˘ ngÏ ngµng.<br />
Bπn sœ hi”u Æ≠Óc c∂m nhÀn cÒa<br />
t´i khi nh◊n th†y hfln Æ∂o lπ gi˜a<br />
bi”n c∂ vµ ng≠Íi d©n sËng b◊nh<br />
yn vÌi nh˜ng gi∏ trfi vµ truy“n<br />
thËng cÒa h‰.<br />
T´i cË gæng Æ’n c∏c hfln Æ∂o kh∏c<br />
n¨i ng≠Íi Bajau sinh sËng trong 4<br />
ngµy sau Æ„. MÈt vµi hfln Æ∂o v› dÙ<br />
nh≠ Tabbalanos kh´ng Æ≠Óc nhæc<br />
Æ’n trn mπng Internet, c„ th” v◊<br />
qu∏ nh· so vÌi nh˜ng hfln Æ∂o lÌn<br />
mµ Google c„ th” t◊m ra. Nh≠ng<br />
Æi“u nµy c„ th” giÛp ng≠Íi d©n b∂o<br />
v÷ s˘ b◊nh yn cÒa ring m◊nh. T´i<br />
Æi xuyn qua Æπi d≠¨ng g∆p nh˜ng<br />
tÈc ng≠Íi trn Æ∂o Mabul, Omadal,<br />
Sibuan, Maiga vµ lµng Tagatan.<br />
Nh˜ng ng´i nhµ Î Tagatan Æ≠Óc<br />
x©y d˘ng trn khu Æ«m ph∏. ô Æ„,<br />
t´i g∆p mÈt gia Æ◊nh trËn kh·i<br />
Philippines Æ” trÛ »n Î n¨i b◊nh<br />
yn nµy.<br />
M∆c dÔ r†t nh· nh≠ng nh˜ng n¨i<br />
t´i Æ’n Æ“u r†t kh∏c bi÷t. MÈt sË<br />
Æi”m th◊ rÈng h¨n vµ c„ nhi“u<br />
ng≠Íi h¨n. C„ kho∂ng 70 gia<br />
Æ◊nh sËng trn c∏c nhµ sµn gÁ<br />
Î Omadal. Nh˜ng ng´i nhµ nµy<br />
Æ≠Óc nËi vÌi nhau bªng nh˜ng c©y<br />
c«u Æ” c∂ cÈng ÆÂng c„ th” gæn b„<br />
kh®ng kh›t vµ sËng hfla hÓp vÌi<br />
nhau. ô Æ©y, bπn c„ th” t◊m th†y<br />
vµi cˆa hµng nh· vµ khu v˘c »m<br />
th˘c. Ngay khi Æ’n n¨i, mÈt l«n<br />
n˜a t´i Æ≠Óc chµo Æ„n bÎi lÚ trŒ.<br />
T´i chÙp lπi ∂nh nh˜ng Ưa bä<br />
t„c vµng, mµu t„c bfi t»y træng bÎi<br />
n≠Ìc bi”n. M∆t phÙ n˜ nhfle Æi<br />
vÌi borak, kem ngh÷ Æfia ph≠¨ng<br />
Æ≠Óc dÔng Æ” b∂o v÷ da h‰ kh·i<br />
t∏c hπi cÒa ∏nh s∏ng m∆t trÍi. Lµn<br />
da træng Æ≠Óc dÔng nh≠ mÈt y’u<br />
tË Æ∏nh gi∏ sæc Æãp Î Malaysia vµ<br />
c∏c c´ g∏i ÆÈc th©n dÔng borak<br />
hµng ngµy Æ” t◊m bπn ÆÍi. C∏c<br />
bµ mã Ææp cho c∏c con v◊ chÛng<br />
th≠Íng xuyn ti’p xÛc vÌi ∏nh<br />
Th§ng tin th£m:<br />
HÄNH TRçNH:<br />
ü Tı TP.HCM ho∆c Hµ NÈi bay<br />
Æ’n Kuala Lumpur - thÒ Æ´ cÒa<br />
Malaysia - m†t kho∂ng 2-3 ti’ng. Sau<br />
Æ„, ti’p tÙc bay Æ’n Tawau, m†t<br />
kho∂ng 2h30. Tı Æ©y, Æi xe bu˝t Æ’n<br />
Semporna, m†t 1 ti’ng, rÂi Æi thuy“n<br />
ra Æ∂o, m†t kho∂ng 1 ti’ng.<br />
Visa:<br />
ü V◊ nªm trong khËi ASEAN<br />
nn du kh∏ch Vi÷t Nam Æi du lch<br />
Malaysia mµ kh´ng c«n ph∂i xin Visa<br />
¬m th#c:<br />
ü Ng≠Íi Bajau sËng bi÷t lÀp vÌi th’<br />
giÌi bn ngoµi nn Î Æ©y hoµn toµn<br />
kh´ng c„ kh∏i ni÷m v“ dch vÙ du<br />
lch. ô mÈt sË hn Æ∂o c„ ng≠Íi<br />
Bajau sinh sËng, bπn c„ th” t◊m th†y<br />
vµi cˆa hµng nh· vµ khu v˘c »m<br />
th˘c, th≠Íng chÒ y’u phÙc vÙ trong<br />
cÈng ÆÂng.<br />
Lu tr@:<br />
ü Cho nh˜ng ngµy kh∏m ph∏ kh´ng<br />
gian sinh tÂn trn c∏c hn Æ∂o cÒa<br />
ng≠Íi Bajau, ban Æm bπn nn quay<br />
lπi l≠u trÛ tπi Semporna. Î Æ©y c„<br />
nh˜ng kh∏ch sπn mini gi∏ rŒ, t«m<br />
40USD/Æm. ô nh˜ng hn Æ∂o du<br />
lch kh∏c nh≠ Mabul, dch vÙ kh∏ch<br />
sπn Ææt Æ· h¨n nhi“u.<br />
KhÉM phÉ:<br />
ü N’u c„ c¨ hÈi Æ’n Æ©y, bπn nn<br />
dµnh thÍi gian lang thang, kh∏m ph∏<br />
c∏c lµng nÊi Æ≠Óc x©y d˘ng trn c∏c<br />
r∆ng san h´ khu Æ«m ph∏.<br />
næng m∆t trÍi. T´i nhÀn th†y mÈt<br />
chi’c thuy“n nh· ti’n v“ ph›a b∑i<br />
bi”n vÌi hµng h„a cho c∏c cˆa<br />
hµng vµ qu«y th˘c ph»m trn Æ∂o.<br />
Vµi phÛt sau, t´i rÍi Æ∂o v“ Ɔt<br />
li“n vÌi vµi c©n c∏ t≠¨i.<br />
Chuy’n th∏m hi”m cÒa t´i k’t<br />
thÛc. ß„ lµ mÈt kho∂ng l∆ng gi˜a<br />
cuÈc sËng hi÷n Æπi nhÈn nhfip vµ<br />
bÀn rÈn gi˜a bËn b“ xanh ngæt<br />
Æπi d≠¨ng. T´i sœ m∑i l≠u gi˜<br />
trong s©u thºm tr∏i tim m◊nh<br />
c∂m gi∏c b◊nh yn Î nh˜ng n¨i<br />
†y vÌi nh˜ng con ng≠Íi sËng mÈt<br />
cuÈc sËng hoµn toµn kh∏c - mÈt<br />
cuÈc sËng chÿ v◊ vµ bÎi Æπi d≠¨ng.<br />
Nh˜ng ng≠Íi Bajau, nh˜ng ng≠Íi<br />
nay Æ©y mai Æ„ trn bi”n c∂,<br />
kh´ng Æ≠Óc c´ng nhÀn cÚng nh≠<br />
ch†p nhÀn bÎi nh˜ng quËc gia l©n<br />
cÀn. H‰ sËng Î Æ„ theo l˘a ch‰n<br />
cÒa ring m◊nh, Æ„ lµ vi÷c muËn<br />
gi˜ ring cho m◊nh mÈt thin<br />
Æ≠Íng nh·.<br />
<strong>TRAVELLIVE</strong> 113
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