Times of the Islands Spring 2016

TIMES
OF THE
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2016 NO. 114
ISLANDS
RETURNING TO EAST CAICOS
New discoveries made
SAILING, SAILING . . .
Association fosters the sport
BUILDING A LAND BANK
North Caicos investment opportunities

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contents
Departments
10 From the Editor
15 Getting to Know
Illustrator Alizee Zimmermann
By Alizee Zimmermann, Zaharya Musgrove,
and Kathy Borsuk
46 Real Estate
Banking on Land: North Caicos Marina
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos By Provo Pictures
67 Faces & Places
Edward Gartland Youth Centre Fundraiser
Photos By Kellie Luker Photography
68 Sporting Life
Over the Deep Blue Sea:
Turks & Caicos Islands Sailing Association
By Kathy Borsuk
Photos Courtesy Provo Sailing Club
74 Shape Up
Savor the Flavor of Eating Right
By Tamika Handfield
76 About the Islands/TCI Map
81 Where to Stay
83 Dining Out
86 Classified Ads/Subscription Form
Features
30 Bringing Home the Goods
By John Galleymore ~ Photos By Agile LeVin
40 Dwelling Among Us
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco
TIMES
OF THE
ISLANDS
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SPRING 2016 NO. 114
On the Cover
Talented local photographers Dominique Rolle and
LeMans (Li) Welch have teamed up to form Caya Hico
Media, a firm specializing in luscious imagery with a
natural perspective. This gorgeous shot depicts a Great
egret, a wading bird that can be found on the lawns of
many resorts. It is also common in Pumpkin Bluff Pond,
a protected nature reserve on North Caicos.
For more information on Caya Hico’s media solutions,
visit www.CayaHicoMedia.com.
Green Pages
20 Piping Up
By Eric F. Salamanca, Elise Elliote-Smith,
Caleb Spiegal, and Craig Watson
Photos By Eric F. Salamanca
24 Out with a Roar
By Anela Akiona
27 Cherish Our Reefs
Story & Photos By Don Stark
40
Astrolabe
56 The Island Within An Island
Story & Photos By Dr. Donald H. Keith
62 Crawling with Intrigue
By Glen Freimuth, Shaun Sullivan,
Charlene Kozy, and B Naqqi Manco
B NAQQI MANCO
6 www.timespub.tc

Turks And Caicos
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Real Estate
Mandalay Villa
Completed in 2012 this one-of-a-kind estate on sought
after Long Bay Beach sets the standard for luxurious
living in the Turks & Caicos. Features include “drivethrough”
gate house, travertine driveway lined by fruit
trees, multi-level infinity pool with central lounge
and waterfalls, Creston smart home technology, and
sumptuous furnishings. There’s nothing like it!
US$12,500,000
North Brae Villa
4BD/4BTH “Spanish-inspired” mansion built in
2007 on the beach in Thompson Cove w/ boat dock.
Exceptional and unique - custom staircases; custom
metal-work; extensive use of Brazilian hardwood and
mahogany. Its all here - formal dining room, “luxury
fitted” kitchen, etc. All centered on the infinity pool and
jacuzzi the ocean beyond.
US$2,800,000
Bernadette Hunt
cell ~ 649 231 4029 | tel ~ 649 941 3361
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com
Seven Stars 3 Bedroom
Beachfront suite 1201/02 provides 2,672 sqf of luxurious
living space. Granite counters, marbled bathrooms,
travertine flooring and GE Monogram appliances. The
main living areas and master suite enjoy turquoise
water views. The additional bedrooms have a lockout
feature for rental flexibility. Part of the fabulous Seven
Stars Resort in the center of Grace Bay.
US$1,399,000
Villa Renaissance Penthouse
This beautiful 2BR penthouse suite is in pristine
condition. Enjoy direct Grace Bay beach views from
the terrace and additional rooftop space incorporating
a private jacuzzi and BBQ area. This feature is unique
in the development - its like your own a private spa.
If you are searching for the ultimate 2 bedroom
suite on Grace Bay this penthouse is a must see.
US$1,495,000
Bernadette is an Irish qualified attorney who
began practicing law in the Turks & Caicos in
1997. Working in a general practice she dealt with
conveyancing, immigration, licensing, company
and trust formation and estate planning. In 2000
she co-founded Turks & Caicos Property, Ltd.
(“TCP”) taking the lead on sales and dividing
her time between law and real estate.
Bernadette retired from law in 2007 to focus
exclusively on what was already a successful
real estate business. Since then, based on
independent MLS data, she is the only TCI
agent with active sales (i.e. introducing the
buyer) exceeding US$100 million. Her gross
sales figures and transaction numbers are also
unrivalled. This proven level of efficiency,
experience and up-to-the-minute information
provides a platform for quality service that you
can count on every time.
TCP is the leading independent real estate
brokerage in TCI with offices located on Grace
Bay Rd. and at Ocean Club West Resort. TCP’s
reputation and success has been earned over
time through the dedication, enthusiasm and
consistent performance of Bernadette and the
Turks & Caicos Property team. Bernadette
works 6 days a week from her offices in Grace
Bay and delights in meeting new people and
making new contacts.
Grace Bay Development Site
Beachfront site between The Mansions and Villa
Renaissance. Suitable for condo development (resort
or residential), a boutique hotel or for an estate home in
an incredible setting. There is a two storey residential
building on the southern portion. Prime Grace Bay
location. A resurgent tourism industry and a busy real
estate market mean the timing is now perfect.
US$6,000,000
Grace Bay Beach House
3 storey, 5 BR / 4.5 BTH villa with pool on an acre
of Grace Bay beach. Miles of powdery white sands at
your doorstep, snorkeling on Smith’s Reef right in front
and v. close to Turtle Cove Marina, restaurants and
shops. Dazzling views of turquoise waters from the 3rd
floor wrap around balcony. Operated as a short-term
vacation rental - enquire for info on earnings.
US$2,950,000
Call Bernadette if you would like to find out a
little more about owning real estate in the Turks
& Caicos Islands.
TCP
TURKS & CAICOS PROPERTY
Boutique Real Estate Brokerage

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from the editor
This rendering depicts the proposed development on Grace Bay Beach, the Ritz-Carlton Residences. In early 2016, sales materials were marketing
units on all twelve floors. Many residents believed that public consultation on building height changes was still underway.
No Comment
When I started this job in 1993, I was thoroughly besotted with the beauty of the Islands. That was when Grace
Bay Beach was deserted and pristine, dotted only by a few small hotels. (We thought the three-story Ramada was the
“big city.”) In between there was simply ivory sand, turquoise water, and the muted tans and greens of the dunes,
beach grass waving in the sea breeze. I feel blessed to have walked that beach, at that time. I also remember being
impressed by government’s credo of focusing on upscale, high end development; attracting a small number of
wealthy people who would appreciate the Islands’ natural splendor and simple way of life. This would allow Islanders
to have the time to study or train to fill in jobs at every level of the hospitality industry. Oh, what a different place
this would be if that had happened!
Instead, money, power, and prestige entered the picture and development snowballed, especially during the
binge years of the mid 2000s when it seemed the entire country was for sale. I, for one, am glad of the “purge” of
2008/09, after which the majority of the projects came to naught.
As any longtime reader of Times of the Islands knows, I am also enamored of the natural and cultural heritage
and history of the Turks & Caicos. It is unique and fascinating, and of itself would be of great attraction to a certain
segment of the tourism market, who would also care deeply about conservation and preservation. I wonder if those
are the same set who might stay in a twelve-story beachfront high-rise? The photo above does not look “Beautiful by
Nature” to me.
Kathy Borsuk, Editor
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788
10 www.timespub.tc

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TIMES
MANAGING EDITOR
Kathy Borsuk
OF THE
ISLANDS
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Claire Parrish
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Anela Akiona, Kathy Borsuk, Elise Elliote-Smith, Glen
Freimuth, John Galleymore, Tamika Handfield,
Dr. Donald H. Keith, Charlene Kozy, B Naqqi Manco,
Zaharya Musgrove, Claire Parrish, Eric F. Salamanca,
Pat Saxton, Caleb Spiegal, Don Stark, Shaun Sullivan,
Craig Watson, Candianne Williams, Alizee Zimmermann.
Love your home
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Anela Akiona, Jessica Bechhofer, Caya Hico Media,
Bruce Elliott, Glen Freimuth, Heidi Hertler,
Dr. Donald H. Keith, Agile LeVin, Kellie Luker Photography,
B Naqqi Manco, Steve Passmore – Provo Pictures,
Provo Sailing Club, Nigel Sadler, Eric F. Salamanca,
Pat Saxton, Talisha Simons, Nathan Smith, Don Stark,
Candianne Williams, Alizee Zimmermann.
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Wavey Line Publishing
PRINTING
Franklin-Dodd Communications, Hialeah, FL
AWARD-WINNING CUSTOM HOME DESIGN
Award-winning architecture firm RA Shaw Designs
has created some of the most sophisticated and
technologically advanced luxury properties
in the Caribbean. Recently voted
“The Best Architecture & Design
Company of the Year”
for the second consecutive year by Caribbean
World Magazine, our team specializes in creating
a unique sense of place by integrating building
techniques and architectural details with the
surrounding culture so that you too can
love your home.
Times of the Islands ISSN 1017-6853 is
published quarterly by Times Publications Ltd.
Copyright © 2016 by Times Publications Ltd. All rights reserved
under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.
No part of this publication may be
reproduced without written permission.
Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for
non-U.S. mailing addresses
Submissions We welcome submission of articles or photography, but
assume no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material.
Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no
event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any
claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.
While every care has been taken in the compilation and reproduction of
information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is
subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no
responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or other errors.
Business Office
Times Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,
Lucille Lightbourne Building #1,
Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Islands, BWI
Tel/Fax 649 946 4788
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E-mail timespub@tciway.tc
Web: www.timespub.tc
To learn more, visit us online or call 1.649.941.4394
14 www.timespub.tc

getting to know
Alizee Zimmermann is at her desk in The Netherlands with a copy of her new coloring book, Reefscapes.
Color it Blue
Meet illustrator Alizee Zimmermann.
By Alizee Zimmermann, Kathy Borsuk, and Zaharya Musgrove ~ Photos Courtesy Alizee Zimmermann
Adult coloring books are very much in vogue these days as a means to relax and rejuvenate. Alizee
Zimmermann is a young artist from the Turks & Caicos Islands who is using her new coloring book
Reefscapes to spotlight the unique underwater landscapes of the Turks & Caicos Islands — with the hopes
of increasing awareness of the need for ocean conservation.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 15

Alizee Zimmermann was born and raised in the Turks
& Caicos Islands to a family of adventurers. (Her mother,
Chloe, is the long-time owner of TCI-based Marco Travel.)
Alizee says she spent a lot of time exploring in the bush
and on the beach. “I always had a strong connection to
the ocean. I did my junior open water PADI course with
Big Blue when I was 13 and was part of the first-ever
DEMA Junior Park Warden Program. We broke ground for
the plot of land in The Bight that eventually became the
Environmental Centre.”
After attending Richmond Hills Primary (where she
read her way through the school library) and the British
West Indies Collegiate (where she swam competitively),
Alizee and several others in her class traded island
paradise for chilly England to earn the International
Baccalaureate. She recalls, “It was really hard going to
boarding school after the freedom of growing up in the
Islands in the 1990s. It was your movie-screen version of
a nightmare, complete with scary matrons, strict rules,
and a dress code. But I met some of my best friends there
and the education was good.”
When Alizee was 17, she started a four year program
in English Literature at the University of Edinburgh, spent
her third year as an exchange student in Spain, and graduated
with a Masters of Arts in 2008.
Happily returning home after six years in the UK,
Alizee says she wanted nothing more than to be a bartender
(to her mother’s great dismay). She held a trio
of part-time jobs at Jimmy’s Dive Bar, Undersea Explorer
(semi-submarine), and on the Atabeyra sailboat. Soon
afterwards, she managed the Discovery Centre in Club
Med and guided tours for French and Spanish groups.
In 2011, Alizee went to China to teach English as
a foreign language, after taking an online TEFL course.
There she taught at a high-school in a small town (about
six million people!) in Hubei province, later moving to
Chengdu in Sichuan province to teach at the university.
After two years in China, Alizee was longing to be warm
and near the ocean again!
With her boyfriend Justin, Alizee moved to Vietnam,
where she completed an internship program with Rainbow
Divers and worked her way up from Rescue Diver to
Instructor. She was offered a job on the Turks & Caicos
Aggressor, so came home and spent six months working
as a dive instructor and videographer on the liveaboard,
often on the Silver Banks swimming with humpbacks,
amassing more underwater memories that served to
inspire the coloring book.
The next two stops in Alizee’s adventurous life
From top: Alizee already has plans for another book containing more
fantastical ocean illustrations. She works from her small apartment
in Leiden, the Netherlands.
16 www.timespub.tc

were a teaching job in Vitoria-Gasteiz, the capital of the
Spanish Basque country, and her current residence in
Leiden, the Netherlands, where Justin is completing a
Masters Degree in Archaeology. Alizee says, “We realized
quite abruptly that I’m somehow not very hireable here
in the Netherlands. I speak three languages but none is
Germanic. My degree is in Literature, not Business. I’m
a dive instructor but can’t see myself braving the North
Sea and I’m an English teacher in a country where pretty
much everyone speaks English.”
So she is spending her time doing translations online,
dog-walking, and pet-sitting. She started drawing as a
way to pass the day and keep sane. Alizee recalls, “Early
last year, I got a job to help illustrate a coloring book.
The pay was really low and I would have gotten no artistic
credit. I politely declined but the more I spoke to people
and showed them my illustrations, the more people
suggested I just self-publish and create my own coloring
book. I hadn’t given it much further thought until Justin
encouraged me to get a book printed for the upcoming
TCI Expo. And that was it, Reefscapes was born.”
All the scenes in Reefscapes are based on the
underwater landscapes of the Turks & Caicos Islands,
the images Alizee grew up with. “I tried to stick to ani-
Colour your way through
the aquatic realms of the
Turks and Caicos Islands
BY
Alizee Zimmermann
All the scenes in Reefscapes are based on underwater landscapes
from Alizee’s life in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 17

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mals found in the TCI both local and invasive (lionfish).
Admittedly, a few of the fish are straight out of my imagination,
but on the whole most of them bear resemblance
to species seen when diving in the Islands. I’m working
on a series of Humpback whale illustrations at the
moment. Spending time in close proximity with them was
life-changing and this time of year is generally when I
get the most homesick. For my next collection I want to
focus more on folklore and literary figures — still oceanthemed
but this time there will be pirates and mermaids
and Krakens galore.”
Reefscapes was well-received at the TCI Arts & Crafts
Expo 2015 and several hotels, including Amanyara, The
Palms, The Sands, and Blue Haven, have all picked up
the book either as gifts for repeat/special guests or for
the boutique. The coloring books are also sold in Anna’s
Gallery, Dive Provo, Driftwood Studios, and Marco Travel,
and available online through CreateSpace and Amazon.
What’s next for this adventurous artist? Alizee muses,
“I love creating things and that won’t change, but I probably
won’t limit myself to just coloring books. Raising
awareness about marine conservation and finding a way
to help promote environmental education are two of my
motivations for focusing on the ocean with my illustrations.
I’ve had ideas for educational coloring books that
could not only promote the beauty of what we have, but
also depict the repercussions of our everyday actions —
from washing your face with cleansers containing plastic
microbeads to the horrors of dynamite fishing which
is still being used around the world. I am working on a
series of illustrations showing the darker side of what’s
going on in the ocean these days.”
She adds, “One of my motivations for illustrating subaquatic
wonderlands is the awe of what is there and the
fear of what will be left. The importance of the ocean
and the threats it is facing have become abundantly clear
and yet there is still so much unnecessary garbage being
dumped into the seas. Working ‘underwater’ in both
Turks & Caicos and Vietnam made the threat ever so real
and personal. Education is the best defense and mass
destruction can stem from an ignorance of the consequences."
a
Please contact us for further information.
(649) 941 5186 . info@precioustreasuresschool.com
www.precioustreasuresschool.com
For more information or to order a copy of the coloring
book, visit www.tradewindcolours.com. Alizee recommends
placing a sheet of paper between pages if using
paints or markers to avoid bleed-through.
18 www.timespub.tc

Times of the Islands Spring 2016 19

green pages
newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
head office: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web www.environment.tc
These rare Piping Plovers were spotted in late January 2016 in Ft. George National Park.
Piping Up
Rare, endangered, and threatened bird found in Turks & Caicos Islands.
By Eric F. Salamanca, DEMA, Elise Elliote-Smith, US Geologic Service, and
Caleb Spiegel and Craig Watson, US Fish and Wildlife Service
Photos By Eric F. Salamanca
The Piping Plover (Charadrius melodus) is a small shorebird that nests and feeds along coastal sand and
beaches. Due to anthropogenic disturbances, this bird is considered endangered or threatened. It is a
rare shorebird that breeds in the US and Canada and migrates to the southern US, Caribbean, and Mexico
for the winter. The International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) has listed this bird as “near
threatened” in their Red Lists, while US and Canada had listed it as “threatened/endangered.”
20 www.timespub.tc

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
It is not known whether Piping Plovers migrate in
Turks & Caicos, although the species was observed in
the northern Bahamas (National Geographic, 2011). The
wintering habitats in the Bahamas are also present in
the Turks & Caicos Islands, and for this reason researchers
from the US Geologic Survey (USGS) and US Fish and
Wildlife Service (UFWS), believed it important to investigate
TCI’s natural habitat, in cooperation with DEMA, and
survey the Islands to determine the presence of Piping
Plover.
Piping Plovers are one of two US federally-listed
species (along with the Red Knot), although over half
of Atlantic Flyway shorebirds are declining. Concern
for shorebird populations has led to the creation of the
Atlantic Flyway Shorebird Initiative, which brings together
partners from across the flyway (from the Arctic to South
America) to identify and implement actions that can
reverse declining populations. The initiative recognizes
that in order to protect bird species, it is important to
understand the threats they face throughout their annual
cycles. All shorebirds are being counted in the Caribbean
Plover Census to better understand where they winter,
because such information is not well known. The identification
of large concentrations of wintering shorebirds
in TCI will help DEMA to consider where conservation is
needed.
Based on preliminary fieldwork, the Piping Plover is
observed in open sandy beaches in the Turks & Caicos
Islands. Also, the declining Semi-palmated Sandpiper,
Wilson’s Plover, American Oystercatcher, and Red Knot
were observed in several islands and cays in the TCI.
Description
The Piping Plover is a small stout shorebird with a large
rounded head, a short thick neck, and a stubby bill. It
is sand-colored, dull gray/khaki, and sparrow-sized.
The adult has yellow-orange legs, a black band across
the forehead from eye to eye, and a black ring around
the neck during the breeding season. During nonbreeding
season, the black bands become less pronounced.
Its bill is orange with a black tip. It ranges from 15–19
cm (5.9–7.5 in) in length, with a wingspan of 35–41 cm
(14–16 in) and a mass of 42–64 g (1.5–2.3 oz). The Piping
Plover is not easily detected on general bird surveys due
to its small, cryptic nature and similarity in appearance
to other small shorebird species. Its flight call is a soft,
whistled “peep peep” given by standing and flying birds.
It’s frequently heard alarm call is a soft “pee-werp,” with
the second syllable lower pitched.
Habitat
The Piping Plover lives the majority of its life on open
sandy beaches, especially above tideline, and alkalai flats.
It builds its nests higher on the shore near beach grass
and other objects. It is very rare to see a Piping Plover
anywhere outside of sand or rocky beaches/shores while
not migrating. Piping Plovers are often found to migrate
south during winter months. It is now confirmed that they
reach the Turks & Caicos shores during winter migration.
This bird eats insects and small aquatic invertebrates. It
runs rapidly, stops, and then pecks or quickly snatches
at prey.
Breeding
Breeding birds have a single black breast band, a black
bar across the forehead, bright orange legs and bill, and
a black tip on the bill. During the winter, the birds lose
their breeding plumage — the black bands are lost, the
legs fade to pale yellow, and the bill becomes mostly
black. Piping Plovers breed in open sand, gravel, or shellstrewn
beaches and alkali flats. Each nest site is typically
near small clumps of grass, drift, or other windbreak. In
winter, these birds prefer sand beaches and mudflats.
Migrants are seldom seen inland, but occasionally show
up at shores, river bars, or alkali flats.
Diet
Individuals forage visually in typical plover fashion,
employing a run-stop-scan technique. Plovers capture
prey by leaning forward and picking at surfaces; they also
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
This pretty pair of Piping Plovers was picking along the beach near Donna Cut at the Princess Alexandra National Park in January, 2016.
employ a “foot-tremble” feeding method, causing prey to
move and become more conspicuous. Feeding by day and
night, they eat a wide variety of aquatic marine worms,
insects, mollusks, and crustaceans.
Status and conservation issues
The Piping Plover is globally threatened (likely to
become endangered within the foreseeable future) and
endangered (in danger of extinction throughout all or a
significant portion of its range). It has been listed by the
United States as “endangered” in the Great Lakes region
and “threatened” in the remainder of its breeding range.
In eastern Canada, the Piping Plover is declared an endangered
species. In the Turks & Caicos Islands, this bird is
listed as rare and endangered (Wildlife and Biodiversity
Protection Bill).
Historically (19th and early 20th centuries), the
Piping Plover was utilized for its feathers, as were many
other birds at the time, as decorations for women’s hats.
These decorations, called plumes, became a symbol of
high society, especially those from larger rare birds. This
practice led to the initial population decline of Piping
Plovers.
The second decline in the birds’ population and range
has been attributed to increased development, shoreline
stabilization efforts, habitat loss, and human activity near
nesting sites. Declines resulted from direct and unintentional
harassment by people, pets such as dogs and cats,
vehicles, destruction of beach habitat for development,
and changes in water level attributed to sea level rise due
to climate change.
In the Turks & Caicos Islands, Piping Plovers were
observed in the shores that are within the Protected Areas
(PAs), although they may be present in non-protected
areas. A protected area is a clearly defined geographical
space, recognised, dedicated, and managed through
legal or other effective means, to achieve the long term
conservation of nature with associated ecosystem services
and cultural values (IUCN Definition 2008). The PAs
are intended to provide places for the enjoyment of the
present and future generations, including habitats for
wildlife.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
Critical activities affecting the Piping Plover
Activities that can adversely affect the habitat of Piping
Plovers include the following: dredging and dredge spoil
placement; construction and installation of facilities,
pipelines, and road development; oil spills and oil spill
clean-up; construction of dwellings, roads, marinas, and
other structures and associated impacts such as staging
of equipment and materials, beach nourishment,
stabilizations and cleaning; certain types and levels of
recreational activities such as all-terrain vehicular activity;
and stormwater and wastewater discharge. Although this
is not the only determinant factor, healthy and conducive
habitats are correlated with population.
The way forward
To ensure that this endangered and threatened bird will
continue to be on our shores, we need to understand its
biology and ecology. It is also important to understand
how the destruction of habitat leads to the loss of endangered
and threatened species.
We need to protect natural coastal dune habitats by
staying on boardwalks and existing trails. When walking
with your pets on a beach or in other natural areas, keep
your pet leashed to prevent disturbing nesting, roosting,
or foraging birds. Finally, support any and all initiatives to
protect the natural resources and wildlife of the “Beautiful
by Nature” Turks & Caicos Islands. a
If you wish to take part in various activities that will
promote environmental sustainability, including bird conservation,
please contact DEMA at environment@gov.tc.
This endangered Piping Plover was spotted in late January 2016 in Ft.
George National Park.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 23

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
HEIDI HERTLER
Lionfish are more conspicuous around sunrise and sunset.
Out with a Roar
Invasive lionfish mitigation on South Caicos.
By Anela Akiona, School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource Management
Invasive species are a major threat to ecosystem stability and biodiversity and the environmental and economic
costs are increasing. While most invasions to date have been in terrestrial and freshwater systems,
marine invasions have significantly increased. This has been facilitated by the expansion of international
trade and travel and technological advances that make it easier for species to be transported out of their
natural range.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
The red lionfish (Pterois volitans/miles) is a popular
aquarium fish from the ornamental fish trade. Several
were accidentally released in Florida waters in the early
1990s (Whitfield et al. 2002) and established themselves
on Atlantic and Caribbean coral reefs. The lionfish introduction
is the fastest documented invasion of a marine
fish, and they are now recognized as one of the world’s
top conservation issues (Sutherland et al. 2010).
A native of the Indo-Pacific, lionfish have high growth
and reproductive rates, spawning year round with fecundity
(reproductive productivity) of over two million eggs
per female. They are unique and effective predators,
whose cryptic coloration and elongated pectoral fin rays
provide both camouflage and a mechanism for herding
prey. Lionfish also shoot jets of water at prey, which
may increase the chance of a headfirst capture or overwhelm
the prey’s lateral line system (sense organs used
to detect movement), masking the incoming attack. This
novel hunting tactic enables lionfish to consume native
fishes at an average rate of 1–2 prey per hour and allows
lionfish to reach densities nearly five times higher in their
new range than that in their native range.
Lionfish compete with native predators for food,
resources, and shelter on the reef, growing significantly
faster than other predatory species such as economically
important groupers and snappers. One model showed
that lionfish could replace sharks as top predators and
impact food web biomass, destabilizing the system
(Arias-Gonzales 2011). Furthermore, lionfish cause a
reduction in overall species richness (number of species)
and cause a greater reduction of coral reef fishes than
native predators do, including species such as parrotfish,
which are critical in maintaining a healthy reef. Lionfish
have been shown to reduce the recruitment of native
fishes by up to 79% (Albins & Hixon 2008). The synergistic
predation of both lionfish and native predators has
the greatest effect on reef fish communities, and these
impacts have far-reaching implications in Caribbean food
webs, increasing stress on an already fragile ecosystem.
Lionfish settle preferentially in shallow habitats
(mangroves and seagrasses) and then as they grow
move to deep reefs. Thus far, management efforts in the
Caribbean have been unsuccessful; lionfish have been
shown to exhibit high site fidelity, and thus any removed
individuals are replaced through recruitment alone.
Targeted removals on deep terraces would likely return
Long days in the field are rewarding when many lionfish are caught!
the maximum conservation benefits. Fishers have noted
native groupers preying on lionfish with some regularity,
and while there have been some recorded instances of
this, most potential predators have been heavily fished
and thus are unlikely to control lionfish populations
(Maljkovic & Leeuwen 2008). Furthermore, the scope of
the invasion and the multitude of political systems in the
Caribbean make it unlikely that policy alone will be able
to control lionfish populations.
The ecosystems around South Caicos support many
commercially important species and provide an ideal
environment for all lionfish life stages. The first document
lionfish was in 2007 (Claydon et al. 2012). With
this in mind, the School for Field Studies (SFS) Center
for Marine Resource Studies (CMRS) launched a project
to reduce the lionfish population and thus damage to
reef communities around South Caicos. The project follows
a multi-year study conducted by SFS CMRS staff and
ANELA AKIONA
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
resistant gloves while handling the lionfish and, once
the measurements are taken, cut off all spines and fin
rays from each individual. In the spirit of recycling, the
spines and fin rays are dried in the sun (which renders
the venom harmless and can also be done in an oven) and
then used by SFS students to make jewelry. Since lionfish
flesh is non-toxic and very delicious, the meat is served
to SFS staff and students and during community events.
Since the conclusion of the initial lionfish study in
2010, there has been approximately a 7 cm increase in
the average size of lionfish captured; the current work
has already removed over 170 lionfish from South Caicos
reefs in just a few months (see below). Hopefully, other
lionfish will be slow to recolonize these areas, which will
free up resources for commercially important predatory
JESSICA BECHHOFER
SFS CMRS Intern Anela Akiona carries the Zookeeper Lionfish
Containment Unit during a dive.
students from 2007–2010, which both surveyed and captured
lionfish, aiming to characterize their habitat usage
and reconstruct the invasion around South Caicos.
The study chronicled the settlement of lionfish, finding
that juveniles settle first in shallow habitats (seagrass
beds and mangrove forests), and then move to deep
reefs as they mature. The current project focuses on
lionfish removal and population size in order to reduce
their impact on local reef fish communities. At depths of
up to 30 meters, lionfish are captured from the Admiral
Cockburn Land and Sea National Park. This protected
area encompasses part of the “wall” (where the Caicos
Bank drops off hundreds of meters) and thus is an ideal
habitat for lionfish. Since they are not frightened by the
presence of humans, the hardest part of removing lionfish
from the reefs is usually locating them!
As lionfish have 18 venomous spines, it is very
important to handle them safely. The research team uses
a Zookeeper Lionfish Containment Unit (www.zkstore.
com) to transport lionfish from the water back to land,
where standard weight and length measurements are
taken. Researchers are careful to use sturdy, puncture-
As lionfish grow in length, they put on more weight as they become
sexually mature. Removing the largest lionfish therefore has the
most impact on the population’s reproductive output.
fishes. By targeting the largest, most conspicuous lionfish,
this study also reduces the number of larvae being
dispersed and will slow the establishment of lionfish populations
elsewhere.
The combination of overfishing of important reef
species, warming seas, and climate change has put reefs
under increasing stress. Removing lionfish, and working
to understand their preferences and behaviour, can
reduce at least one of the stressors on South Caicos’
most important and historic industry. While this is the
only on-going lionfish project on South Caicos, SFS CMRS
hopes to encourage residents to safely remove lionfish
from all over the Turks & Caicos Islands, and thus work
towards greater marine stewardship and sustainable fisheries.
a
To learn more about the SFS program, go to www.fieldstudies.org/tci.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
Marine life thrives on a healthy coral reef. Unfortunately, coral reefs around the world, including the Turks & Caicos, face many threats.
Cherish Our Reefs!
An action plan for keeping TCI’s coral reefs healthy
Story & Photos By Don Stark, Chairman, Turks & Caicos Reef Fund
There are many threats to coral reefs around the world. Higher ocean temperatures as a result of climate
change and ocean acidification are just two events threatening the lives of coral reefs. But other, more
direct, threats also exist. Lionfish love to eat parrotfish. Without parrotfish, algae will smother coral reefs.
Shark fishing can significantly reduce the shark population on reefs, and sharks are needed to maintain
a healthy reef ecosystem. The actions of man, such as anchor damage to reefs and environmentally
unsound development projects, can have major and rapid adverse effects on coral reefs.
But there are actions that can help fix the damage done and prevent future damage. Lionfish control,
coral nurseries, coral restoration and monitoring, artificial reefs, and shark protection are just some the
activities being pursued in the Turks & Caicos Islands.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 27

green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
The Turks & Caicos Islands see just over a million visitors
each year, with the vast majority short-term visitors
to the cruise ship terminal on Grand Turk. Only about
300,000 visitors are considered longer-term, and the vast
majority of those spend their days on world-famous Grace
Bay Beach on Providenciales. The average per capita gross
domestic product is US$23,100, and the main industries
are tourism, financial services, and fisheries. We claim to
have the third largest fringing barrier reef system in the
world and approximately 4% of the reefs are located in
Marine Protected Areas.
Coral reefs are under significant threat from many
factors. In fact, according to the US National Oceanic and
Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), approximately 20%
of all coral reefs in the world are damaged beyond repair.
About 1/2 of those remaining are under risk of collapse.
In addition to the major threats of climate change, overfishing,
and pollution, coral disease, tropical storms,
vessels running aground or anchoring on reefs, tourist
damage to reefs, and invasive species add to the pressure
on coral reef systems around the world.
In the near term for the TCI, the three biggest threats
to our coral reef system come from climate change, invasive
species and tourists.
Our biggest invasive species threat is the ascendency
of the lionfish population which has occurred throughout
the tropical Atlantic and Caribbean. One of the main
concerns with lionfish is their potential impact on the
population of herbivore fishes, especially parrotfish.
Parrotfish are one of the main inhibitors of algae overgrowth
on coral reefs, and any significant reduction in
their population will have a negative impact on the health
of the TCI coral reefs.
From dietary studies, parrotfish are one of the main
species of fish eaten by lionfish in the region. Lionfish
also are a threat to an already stressed TCI commercial
fishery. Catches of commercially important species such
as snapper, grouper, lobster, and conch are down significantly
due to overfishing, and the consumption of
juveniles of these species will not help with recovery of
these fisheries.
It is critical that we control the population of lionfish
within TCI waters. To accomplish this, we are working
toward establishing a lionfish fishery. We have attempted
to incentivise local fishers to catch lionfish. Unfortunately,
the financial incentives we have offered have not been
Lionfish are the biggest invasive species threat in the TCI.
enough to motivate fishers. We have been successful,
however, in getting several restaurants on Providenciales
to agree to buy all the lionfish we can supply, so there is
a demand. We want also to promote lionfish consumption
to tourists but, until we can ensure that they can order
lionfish at a number of restaurants, we have not pursued
this aspect.
Our plan now is to work with a single fisher who will
agree to focus on lionfish. Once we can clearly show that
he is being financially successful catching lionfish, we will
present his success story to others. We are also hoping
that, as the ability to catch other commercially attractive
species continues to decline, fishers will see lionfish as a
new and attractive opportunity.
Climate change is affecting coral reef systems around
in the world. One key step in understanding its impact is
learning how coral populations are changing over time.
To that end, we are attempting to establish a regular
coral monitoring programme with DEMA. We are working
also with a partner to establish coral nurseries to help
rebuild damaged reefs around the TCI.
Funding has been difficult to secure, so we are
attempting to implement financing mechanisms to support
the monitoring effort. One is an “Adopt-A-Coral”
programme where visitors can pay $50 to adopt a newly
transplanted coral on a shallow near-shore reef. We
are also enticing resorts to pay to have reef-ball reefs
installed in the shallows in front of their resort. They
will recoup their investment by charging guests a $2 per
night “conservation fee” — half the resort retains, half
goes to our organisation to support coral monitoring and
maintenance of the reef-ball reef.
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green pages newsletter of the department of environment & maritime affairs
The TC Reef Fund’s “Adopt-A-Coral” program encourages visitors to
participate in reef conservation programs.
Tourism drives the TCI economy, so there is a constant
push to grow the sector. The cruise-ship terminal
on Grand Turk produced a tremendous increase in the
number of individuals visiting the country, if only for a
few hours. Historically, the TCI has been lauded for its
low-density, high-end tourism. But the desire to grow is
tempting the TCI Government to move away from that
successful business model towards high-density hotel
developments. More tourists mean more pressure on
the reefs from snorkelers and divers, and pollution from
sewage, trash, landscaping chemicals, and petroleum
products. More tourists mean more vessels on the reefs
and an increase of vessel groundings.
There is also a push to build a second cruise-ship terminal
and trans-shipping center on the untouched island
of East Caicos. Such a development, if it goes forward,
would destroy one of the most pristine coral reefs left in
the Caribbean and tropical Atlantic.
What can we do to address these threats? We are
working diligently to protect the reefs that are frequently
visited by tourists. We have installed boundary buoys
around an inshore reef to help keep snorkelers off the
shallow parts. We have installed new moorings all around
the Islands for snorkel boat and dive boat operators to
use instead of dropping anchors. We are attempting to
educate tourists through our Adopt-a-Coral programme
and we are actively lobbying the government against
approving high-density developments and dredging for
new projects such as those proposed for East Caicos.
One of our most recent success stories (sort of) is
the protection of shark populations in the TCI economic
enterprise zone. The Turks & Caicos have one of the
healthiest populations of sharks in the tropical Atlantic
and Caribbean. Sharks are seen on almost every dive and
snorkeling excursion.
Fortunately, shark fishing has not been a problem
in TCI waters and we hope to keep it that way. We are
lobbying to make the entire economic enterprise zone a
shark sanctuary. Thus far, government has passed regulations
banning the export of shark products. (These
new regulations were to take effect on June 1, 2015, but
the implementation date has been delayed, along with
other major fishery regulation changes.) We remain optimistic
that the shark product export ban will ultimately
be implemented.
In the meantime, the Pew Charitable Trust has been
working with us and others in the TCI to educate the government
and locals about the importance of sharks to a
healthy reef environment.
Since we founded the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund just
over five years ago, one of our biggest benefits has been
our relationship with the UK Overseas Territories
Conservation Forum and its Wider Caribbean Working
Group. Through this relationship we have established liaisons
with like-minded individuals in other UK Overseas
Territories and have begun to establish the early stages
of a coral monitoring network. We have been able to meet
and share ideas on lionfish control issues. And we are
exploring potential collaborative funding opportunities,
always keeping foremost our goal of protecting and preserving
TCI’s “Beautiful by Nature” marine environment. a
For more information on or to support the important
work of the Turks & Caicos Reef Fund, visit www.tcreef.
org. or email donstark@tcreef.org.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 29

feature
Opposite page: Author/adventurer John Galleymore muses over an old bottle found at the Goods Hill Settlement on East Caicos.
Above: Jon Ward snorkels in one of East Caicos’ eerie sinkholes.
Bringing Home the Goods
TCI’s most avid adventurer returns to East Caicos.
By John Galleymore ~ Photos By Agile LeVin
On the starting line of my first London Marathon, I was advised by a veteran runner to “keep my head
up and look around . . .” Bizarre advice I thought, and then I proceeded to run the 26 miles in a blur, so
intent on finishing, with hardly a recollection of doing so even to this day. With every marathon since, I
now relax, keep my head up and enjoy the sights, sounds, and experience of the day. And it’s a far more
enjoyable experience! (Maybe that’s a metaphor for life in general!)
In February 2015, I walked the 110 miles nonstop from South Caicos to Grace Bay, Providenciales (see
Times of the Islands Spring 2015) and again, although a momentous achievement, I felt I had bypassed
many great sights in order to “watch the clock” and concentrate on finishing. With this in mind, I had long
planned to return to East Caicos and simply enjoy being amongst the pure splendor this wilderness jewel
has to offer.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 31

Having spread the word of a return,
some fellow adventurers were keen to
be involved and I was most fortunate to
be in the company of the LeVin brothers,
Agile and Daniel, as well as Jon
Ward.
We all decided to set a goal for the
3 day/2 night trip. This included diving
some natural ponds and sinkholes
and trying to locate long-lost plantation
ruins. During our planning meetings, we
pored over charts and Google images.
Daniel and Agile also supplied some
great old maps, and having lived in the
TCI for 22 years they have invaluable
island exploring and research experience.
I, Agile, and Daniel had been to
East Caicos before, exploring the ruins
of Jacksonville and investigating sinkholes
deep inland. They share their love
of the Islands through a hugely popular
website which promotes the TCI (www.
visittci.com). This was to be Jon’s first
trip. Even though as a long-standing
divemaster for Dive Provo he has visited
many outer islands, hiking and bush
trekking was to be a fairly new experience!
We decided to set off from South
Caicos and head to the southern point
of East Caicos, and after studying various
maps and old books we decided
to try to locate the mysterious Goods
Hill Plantation, an old 1800s settlement
possibly used for cattle. We had seen it mentioned briefly
in various books but its location was not marked on any
map and it was steeped in rumor and hearsay.
Prior to our start date we contacted a South Caicos
local Tim Hamilton, who agreed to take us by boat to
East. Tim comes highly recommended by Mark Parrish
(Big Blue Unlimited) and Val Kalliecharan (Turks & Caicos
Reservations) so there was never any doubt we had chosen
the right guide! Arrival times were agreed upon,
flights booked and provisions packed, and a few weeks
later our flight touched down in charming South Caicos.
Despite an unscheduled delay, Tim is there on time
to meet us with coffee in hand and a beaming smile. After
loading up Tim’s truck with our extensive kit (at which
From top: This Google Earth shot pictures East Caicos’ unusual
ponds, in which the group planned to dive.
Tim Hamilton (in back) pilots the intrepid group, including (from left)
Daniel LeVin, John Galleymore, and Jon Ward.
I’m sure he raised an eyebrow or two) we set off for the
dock. Tim drives slowly, pointing out sights on the way,
proud of his native island. After a brief supermarket stop
for water and snacks we are joined by Tim’s son Tamall
and board the boat.
The boat ride to East Caicos takes just over an hour
and while it had looked easy enough on a marine chart,
it was obvious that the reef, coral heads, and currents
would be treacherous if you did not know these waters.
Time and time again, we zig-zagged and switched back
between coral heads and reef, invisible to us and often
just in a foot or two of water. Tamall sat “point” on the
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ow with Tim at the helm, and with what seemed like a
casual wave of the hand or murmured instruction, these
two masters of the sea were able to navigate the impossible.
I would imagine that thousands of hours studying
charts would not come close to the skill of the Hamiltons,
who must have seawater in their veins!
We journey past the remote and beautiful Plandon,
Middle Creek, and McCartney Cays with their deserted
beaches, lush vegetation, and rocky outcrops. We are
luckily enough to spot four ospreys circling above us, a
truly wonderful sight.
While we can’t get to the exact landing point we
would like, due to ironshore, we decide on a small bay
that Tim knows well. It’s close to McCartney Cay and I
remember that it’s calm and sheltered. Tim drifts close
enough so that we can wade knee-deep ashore and ferry
our supplies to the beach.
Although East Caicos is uninhabited we are met
on the beach by a welcome party — only it consists of
millions and it’s not very welcome! The dreaded mosquitoes
seem none too pleased by our arrival and attack us
en masse the moment our feet touch the sand. So with
Above: The typically crystal clear water on East Caicos’ north shore
was marred by drifting Sargassum seaweed, which has plagued
most of the Caribbean recently. Mounds as high as three to four feet
washed up on shore.
head nets and gloves on, we speedily cache our kit in the
nearby bush. Our plan is to explore and find a suitable
campsite along the way with the four to five hours of
daylight remaining.
Jon, Daniel, and Agile head along the coast while I
climb the nearby hill, which being named Goods Hill on
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 33

some old maps is our clearest indication that we are in
the right location of our goal. I give Daniel a marine flare
for emergencies and Jon a walkie-talkie so we can check
in every hour.
The climb to the top of Goods Hill is hard. Thick
brush carpets every square foot and most is chest high,
with thick springy branches entangling and holding me
back with every step. Mosquitoes buzz constantly around
and I pull my neck scarf up so only my eyes are visible.
I know from experience that a machete is near useless
here as the saplings are so springy they are all but impossible
to cut through. Threading my way with both care
and brute force is often the only way to cover even the
shortest distance.
After some time, I start to climb more steeply, the
bush thins out to bare limestone, and the breeze picks up,
seeing off the last of my persistent adversaries. The view
from the peak is worth the climb — 360º of unspoiled
beauty. I see South Caicos in the distance, Flamingo Hill
behind me, and all around natural untouched vegetation
and wetlands, oozing with a huge diversity of plant and
wildlife.
East Caicos must surely be the last true wonder of the
Turks & Caicos Islands and it is imperative that this jewel
is not lost or destroyed. In a world that has embraced
ecotourism and the revenue generated by low impact
developments, East Caicos is a prime example of what
could be an authentic National Park. It would be wonderful
to see the TCI take the initiative and set this island
aside for future generations (and visitors) to enjoy in its
natural, undeveloped state.
In the cooling breeze of the summit, I take a bug-free
rest and see the three guys picking their way along the
coast a few miles away. I decide to head down and follow,
although the descent is almost as difficult. On the coast
there are few bugs as the wind and sea spray is constant
and refreshing. Soon, I see the guys in the distance and
in a radio check Jon says “Some walling found!” I fight my
way through more relentless bush to meet up with them.
In fact, it’s more than walling we have found, we
stand amongst stone foundations no more than a few
feet high which are losing a battle with the surrounding
bush that has been ongoing for centuries. The stones are
obviously an old house, and in good order. Miraculously
we even find a fireplace — not uncommon with TCI ruins
— but this is the first with red clay, purpose-made bricks!
It’s beyond belief that we have actually stumbled upon
the Goods Hill Settlement on our first day!
The site seems to be made up of two dwellings a
From top: Well-clothed against the hungry mosquitoes, John
Galleymore makes it to the top of Goods Hill, and is rewarded with a
spectacular 360º view of vegetation and wetlands.
During their exploration, the group finds the stone walling of Goods
Hill Settlement.
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INNOVATION | CONSERVATION | ADVENTURE
short distance apart. One is the main house with kitchen/
fireplace, the other a plain square with single doorway.
Both have walls in good condition, remarkable given their
age. We scour the site finding pottery, more bottles, and
even copper pieces from an old oil lamp. We are careful
to leave items as undisturbed as possible, conscious of
the fact that this area is of historical value and we must
be amongst only of a handful of visitors here in the last
200+ years.
The numbers of intact bottles are in the dozens. We
see the common wine bottles, some of handmade black
glass, and the distinctive shapes of brown “gin” bottles
too. A few smaller, possibly medicinal bottles are
marked with such names as “Indian Arrow Root,” “Agua
de Florida,” and more commonly, “Listerine!” Again, as
with any ruin I visit, I marvel at the determination and
sheer audacity of those past souls choosing to settle and
survive in these remote areas.
The group decided to head back while I explored a
small pond nearby, which involved more thick brush navigating.
After tasting the brackish water, I conclude this
must be the nearest water source for the settlement.
PRESENTS
FEATURING
STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | KAYAKING | KITEBOARDING
SNORKELING | SCUBA DIVING | PRIVATE CHARTERS | BIKING
18
YEARS
©BLUELINES/p.shearer ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
649 | 946 | 5034
649 | 231 | 6455
DISTRIBUTOR FOR EVINRUDE & MERCURY
OUTBOARDS, PURSUIT WORLD CLASS CAT,
SUNDANCE AND BOSTON WHALER BOATS
Lures and Live Bait
Marine Hardware & Gear
Fishing Gear & Supplies
Marine Paints & Varnish
Marine Batteries
Sebago Docksiders
& Sperry Topsiders Shoes
BLUE HILLS ROAD
PROVIDENCIALES
TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS, B.W.I.
From top: The Goods Hill Settlement discoveries include rare clay
firebricks from the chimney and dozens of intact bottles.
PHONE: 649-946-4411
FAX: 649-946-4945
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 35

The trekkers enjoy a lovely sunrise over their base camp, where fire is the first priority!
Back at the bay, the guys had located a good campsite
and started erecting tents and making a small fire to
keep the bugs off. Luckily it was quite breezy, so the mosquitoes
were not too bad here. We discussed our day over
an evening meal around the fire. We could only imagine
what other hidden wonders lay out there in the “wilderness!”
Tomorrow, Jon, Agile, and Daniel plan to walk to
the ponds. Weight restrictions meant SCUBA is out, but
they pack snorkel gear and also a drone to catch some
aerial footage of the area. With the fire crackling away,
the bugs all but gone, and stars out by the billion, we
retire to out tents and sleep until dawn.
The second day starts with breakfast and a sunrise to
die for. The bugs have returned, so head-nets and gloves
accompany the coffee and beans! We wave at some passing
fishermen in a tiny boat from South Caicos, and get
bemused looks in return.
The guys set off for the ponds packing all the gear
and I set off around the base of Goods Hill. My plan today
is to look for artifacts and even caves, which given the
limestone in the area, is a good possibility. I continue to
climb and descend for most of the day, again struggling
through bush and scrabbling over rocks. Despite the season,
the heat is oppressive and bugs persistent.
During one period of rest atop the summit of a
limestone ridge, I sit quietly enjoying the birdsong and
tranquility when I am rewarded by a donkey and her foal
walking past a mere dozen feet away. I walk for another
few hours, then return to camp. I decide to swim —
clothes, boots, and all — in the cool waters of the bay. I
soak for a good hour or so and it feels like the best spa
on earth!
As I float and relax, I wonder how the guys are getting
on, and once back at camp, Jon later recounts . . .
“Time was not on our side with the long hike up the
rocky coast followed by trying to find a route through
the mosquito-filled bush and wetland. Agile had the
ponds pre-plotted on his GPS and it seemed every
mile we’d ask ‘How much further?’ to which he’d
reply ‘only another half mile.’
“We eventually arrived at one of the ponds, and I
ensconced myself in the shade under a bush nursing
my blisters and bruised toenail. Agile and Daniel set
up a small camp fire to try to smoke out the hungry
mosquitoes. Once the smoke had deterred most of
the bugs, I was ready to snorkel. I carried a SCUBA
depth line to try to ascertain the bottom depth. Agile
36 www.timespub.tc

and Daniel set up the drone to capture some awesome
images.
“The water temperature was very refreshing as I
swam slowly to the edge of the drop off. Some small
fish darted left and right, along with some larger fish
roughly six inches long. A promising sight for such
a land-locked pond, or could this or other ponds be
linked to the ocean as many believe?
“Swimming over the sinkhole was very eerie.
Visibility was poor and with a mixing layer of fresh
and salt water inches below the surface, the brackish
water would often change from a glint of red to
green. I could not tell if I was floating above a 200
foot hole or 10 foot hole, but with several line drops
I was only getting about 20 feet of depth, which was
very frustrating. Looking back at the drone images
later on, it seems I missed a darker (and possibly
much deeper) patch in the pond.
“I did some free-diving by the wall edge of the sinkhole
and noticed a lot of fish activity. I also felt a huge
temperature change from refreshing 83ºF. water to
close to 90ºF. water a few feet below the surface. I
also spotted some nice limestone rock features.
“That was enough, as time meant we had to make
a move. I walked back to the smoke with no mosquitoes
in sight, allowing me to peacefully dry off,
get changed, and pack my gear. We all headed back
following donkey trails and fighting through the thick
bushes to the coastline.”
I was still swimming when Jon returned to camp,
surprisingly on his own. It seems Agile and Daniel had
decided to press on in the opposite direction to Drum
Point. I admired their fortitude as I recalled the beach to
Drum Point is horrendous to walk, due to its steep angle
and deep soft sand. Jon swam for a while to cool off while
I set the fire for the evening. It was close to sunset when
I spotted Daniel and Agile heading back down the coast.
Dinner around the fire was a relatively bug free affair,
so much so that we were able to lay out on the sand,
discuss the day, and admire the stars and spot passing
satellites. Sleep soon came on the eve of our last day,
and we had a few hours to spare in the morning before
Tim returned to pick us up. After another great sunrise
and quick breakfast, I set off in search of more limestone
caves. As I walk along the high ridge, I spot Agile in the
distance setting up the drone on the plantation site some
miles away. He should get some great shots and record
important detail, especially useful for the National Trust,
which we all support avidly.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 37

As I descend through
the bush, I hear the drone
overhead and see it whizzing
through the clear
sky — technology sure is
making exploration easier!
I also bump into Daniel
who has come across some
ancient wooden planks, held
together with now-rusty
bolts. They sit in the middle
of desolate bush, with
nothing man-made for miles
around. What purpose they
once served will forever be a
mystery.
I soon find myself
back on the beach and head
around to the quiet inlet that
separates East Caicos from
McCartney Cay. After a brief
walk and a short swim back,
the guys are breaking camp
Because It's There-JohnG_Layout 1 2/9/16 12:50 PM Page 1
for our departure. The fire is
East Caicos is one of the many wonders of the Turks & Caicos Islands.
extinguished and all garbage
collected. It’s like we were never here and that’s how it
Beyond TCI
should be. Right on schedule, Tim arrives with Tamall and
Eco Tours & Adventures
it’s smiles and greetings all around.
A hop into the boat and we are off, again zipping
around coral heads while we discuss the joys of the last
few days, as well as having a few moments each in quiet
reflection. It’s been a pleasure to have shared this trip
with some great guys and fellow-minded adventurers.
South Caicos arrives all too quickly and once docked,
Tim celebrates our excursion by suddenly appearing with
a six-pack of beer — good man indeed! Tim bids us farewell
at the airport. We have some hours before our flight
but it’s good to just relax, chill, discuss our fantastic trip
. . . and plan the next one! a
Email: beyondtci@gmail.com
Tel: 232-5545 • Beyond TCI
North & Middle Caicos
East Caicos
Hiking & Camping
Day Tours
Deserted Beaches
Caves & Plantation Ruins
Fully Escorted
Small Groups Only
•To contact the author for information on island exploration
and guided tours, use beyondtci@gmail.com or visit
www.facebook.com/BeyondTCI.
•Agile and Daniel LeVin are photographers and editors
for Visit Turks and Caicos Islands (www.visittci.com)
•To learn more about the TCI National Trust (their work
and historic sites), go to www.tcnationaltrust.org.
•For tour arrangements on South Caicos and beyond, call
Tim Hamilton Tours at 649 345 6616.
38 www.timespub.tc

Visit
THE CAICOS CONCH FARM
WE GROW
CONCH & FISH
Monday - Friday: 9am - 4pm
Saturday: 9am - 2.30pm
Closed: Sundays
Adults $12.00
Children $10.00
Leeward Highway, Leeward, Providenciales
Phone: (649) 946-5330

feature
Opposite page: A delicate inkcap, a Coprinopsis species, emerges from damp leaf litter under Teren Hill’s dry tropical forest canopy on North
Caicos. Above: Red cage fungi Clathrus ruber mushrooms resemble, in sight and smell, rotting animal flesh. Flies lured in get coated with
spores, which they drop on manure and other rotting material on which the spores can grow.
Dwelling Among Us
A fungal foray.
Story & Photos By B Naqqi Manco, TCI Naturalist
In late summer, especially after tropical depressions bring several days of rain to my North Caicos garden,
I find that weeding chores extend to more than pulling grass and purslane from herb beds. My orchids,
growing on chunks of knotted driftwood, in coconut husks, and in wooden baskets full of coarse charcoal,
are invaded by their own weeds — mushrooms of several ilk bloom overnight from the dead wood,
creeping out between the orchids’ clutching roots.
One overcast day, a particularly creepy wood ear fungus had manifested itself out of the driftwood
on which one of my dwarf Encyclia hybrids grows. I pulled it off the wood, its gummy, fleshy texture
feeling like a disembodied organ in my hand. Its sweet, earthy scent reminded me that most wood ears
are edible, but as I rubbed it, the gel layer inside ruptured its skin — it was too old to eat.
Actually, fungi are not weeds at all, because they are not plants. They occupy a kingdom all their own,
behaving somewhere between plants and animals. Delicious to deadly, fragrant to foetid, gorgeous to
gruesome: the fungi of the Turks & Caicos Islands are a diverse and remarkably important portion of our
biodiversity.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 41

Fungi aren’t given their due typically. Most people
encounter them only regularly in the form of a few cultivated
species in the supermarket, or as unwanted green
or black patches on week-old bread or fruit. Our limestone
thicket habitat seems too dry to be favourable to
many fungi, but there are many — pretty much everywhere
in fact, hiding carefully.
The archetypal image of a fungus is usually a mushroom
— understandable, because that is how we interact
with them most often. But a mushroom is only the reproductive
part of the fungus. The organism itself leads a
clandestine life, the complete opposite of its ostentatious
and rapid reproductive exposition. Mushrooms release
tiny, dust-like spores — the fungus’ seeds of reproduction
and a significant portion of the dust we breathe in
and out every day. But beneath the mushroom’s base,
the fungus itself exists as a network of fibres, webbing
through dead plant material, burrowing inside rotting
wood, or even encrusting roots of living plants.
This is the true identity of the fungus, the network of
fibres called mycelia, comprising in turn finely branched
digestive threads called hyphae. The role of hyphae is
to secure food for the fungus — like animals, and unlike
plants, fungi cannot make their own food.
Also more similar to animals than plants is the
genetic code of fungi, suggesting unexpected origins.
These genetic codes are used increasingly by mycologists
(biologists specialising in fungi) to identify the one to
five million species worldwide. Previously, identification
was largely done only by the reproductive structures, the
mushrooms, but now DNA analysis can identify a species
with much more certainty. In some cases, fungi have
been described as two separate species from collections
of mushrooms and mycelia being classified differently,
something only now being reconciled in scientific collections
by DNA analysis.
Identifying fungi with such certainty is a challenge
for several reasons: mushrooms may appear seasonally
or climactically and the structures are short lived; some
never appear above ground; many species look similar
and individuals within a species can vary considerably;
and mycologists are a decidedly rare group of biologists.
Often it has been botanists who take on this role
even in large institutions. The difficulty in identifying
fungi means that those who wish to harvest their own
mushrooms from the wild have to be well-trained and
absolutely certain what they’re collecting.
Until very recently, with previously only one scientific
fungal collection ever made in the Turks & Caicos Islands,
From top: These white fibres are the complex network that makes
up the body of a fungus, which will someday produce a mushroom.
DEMA’s Junel “Flash” Blaise and Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew’s Marcella
Corcoran collect a fruiting body of a fungus following Hurricane
Cristobal’s exceptionally heavy rains.
The Jew’s ear fungus Hirneola auricula-judae is edible, often dried
before using. Never consume mushrooms without expert identification!
42 www.timespub.tc

such identification was impossible. Now, with several
well-seasoned mycologists turning attention towards the
Turks & Caicos Islands, we are beginning to get a better
idea of our fungal biodiversity.
Some species of fungi we have begun to identify are
quite obvious in their habitats. Others are more covert.
Bracket fungi and red cage fungi feed, like many fungi
do, on decaying wood (indeed they help cause the decay).
Others feed on leaf litter, or parasitize living plant tissue
or even animals. These fungi are mere eaters, they do not
share their food. But not all are so selfish.
Some of the most concealed of all fungi are the truffles,
famously flavourful but difficult to find. There are
native truffles in the Caicos Islands, but they are tiny and
do not have the culinary value of their larger European
cousins. Truffles are simply mushrooms that never grow
above ground — they bloom under the soil, their aromas
inviting burrowing animals to dig them up to disperse the
spores.
Truffles are not just there to please human palates,
they have a far more important function: helping the forests
in the islands exist. The mycelia of these fungi grow
around the roots of trees, encrusting them and branching
out into the soil — they are the symbiotic mycorrhizal
fungi. Every amateur chef knows the rule about not washing
mushrooms in water because they will draw too much
in — this amazing propensity for absorption is something
the mycorrhizal fungi use to their advantage, and to the
advantage of the trees on which they live.
Drawing up more water and nutrients than a plant
root alone can, these fungi work hard underground,
sending a portion of their subterranean spoils into the
trees roots to which they cling. The tree appreciates the
extra food and water (and in some cases, depends upon
it entirely) and repays the fungus by sending it sugar, the
tree’s finished product, and something the fungi can use
to consume and grow.
The success of the common sea grape in infertile,
sandy habitats can be attested to its favoured fraternizing
fungus, and our National Tree, the Caicos pine, owes
its ability to exist in pockets of thin soil on limestone
bedrock to a diminutive truffle as well as several other
species of inconspicuous fungi. Several of these unassuming
species have recently been discovered as species
new to science in the Turks & Caicos and work is ongoing
to describe them at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.
Other fungi are slightly more apparent. Weeks of late
summer rains invoke the appearance of various fruiting
bodies emerging from tree trunks, rotting logs, leaf
From top: A bracket or shelf fungus Ganoderma species feeds on
wood. The gigantic weeping conk fungus Ionotus species feeds on
dead heartwood of living trees. The corky mushroom weeps sticky
tears before breaking up and spreading millions of spores.
A yet-unidentified fungus digests a small twig in the low forest of
North Caicos.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 43

From top left: The deep gills of this mushroom protect the spores as it
pushes up through the hard pine yard soil. This species is likely associated
with the roots of the Caicos pine in a symbiotic relationship.
End of one, beginning of another: A Sepedonium mould feeds on the
old fruiting body of a bolete mushroom.
This encrusting fungus Diplocystis is a type of colonial puffball that
arises from mycohrrizal tissue symbiotically associated with sea
grape roots.
From top right: Several species of earth stars, a complex type of puffball,
grow in the Islands from the dampest forest in North Caicos to
the driest dunes on Little Ambergris Cay.
A coral-fungus, probably Tremellodendron, demonstrates an uncanny
similarity to its namesake through its fruiting body.
mulch, and bare soil. Those emerging from bare soil are
most often associated with living tree roots as mycorrhizal
fungi; others are usually feeding on dead plant
material.
The mushrooms’ purpose is to release spores, the
wind-carried reproductive product to make more of their
kind. For some, simply dropping spores out of their gills
(layers of tissue fringing the underside of most mushrooms)
is enough. Others employ more definite tactics:
red cage fungi attract flies into their lacy orb mushrooms
with the scent and appearance of rotting animal flesh and
then disorient them so they become covered in spores
before flying away to carry them elsewhere; earth stars
and puffballs present inflated, thin-skinned balloons full
of spores to raindrops, which strike with enough force to
squeeze puffs of spores out. A number of fungi species
have learned to team up with algae to form lichens, so
closely tied as two species from two separate kingdoms
living symbiotically that each pairing is given its own scientific
name.
44 www.timespub.tc

Perhaps the most incredible, and slightly terrifying,
are the mind-control fungi. Several groups of fungi have
adapted to growing in the live bodies of insects, and
when ready to fruit, infect the insect’s central nervous
system to cause it to perform behaviours beneficial to the
fungus. Cordyceps fungi, which attack paper wasps in the
Turks & Caicos Islands and myriad other insects around
the world (each species of Cordyceps attacks one species
of insect), force their hosts to climb or fly high into tree
branches in open areas, and clamp down with their jaws
and legs before the fungus finally kills them and grows
mushrooms out of their heads.
Ophiocordyceps fungi similarly alter behaviour in
cicada nymphs underground, forcing them to dig upward
to within a few inches of the soul surface, and die in an
upright position so a three inch linear mushroom can
grow out their thorax and bloom above ground. Luckily,
such terror is, thus far, visited only upon arthropods and
not mammals or humans. Perhaps, realising the potential
power of fungi, I will leave the wood ears on my orchid
limbs alone from now on — an act of appeasement to the
kingdom, so my mind is spared. a
Clockwise from top left:
This Boletus species with
two unequal fruiting bodies
prepares to spore in
the Northwest Point area in
Providenciales.
The terrifying
Ophiocordyceps heteropoda,
the cicada club fungus,
feeds on the living tissues
of insects, first consuming
non-vital organs and fat
reserves, and then eventually
invading the nervous
system and brain to cause
the insect, in this case a
cicada nymph, to position
itself in a location conducive
to the broadcast of the
mushroom’s spores. With
the final push to reproduce,
the insect is entirely consumed.
The spore-bearing gills
are clearly visible on this
Amanita species; most members
of this genus are quite
toxic.
Fungi of TCI remain poorly understood and under-documented.
Photo records of fungi are always helpful, and
may be shared with the author for identification by our
network of experts. Many thanks to Dr Michael Vincent of
Miami University of Ohio in the identification of the fungi
presented here.
Note: Never consume wild mushrooms that have not
been identified by an expert. Many species look very
similar and some are quite dangerously toxic.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 45

eal estate
Opposite page: The western shore of North Caicos is an expanse of warm ivory sand and lush vegetation.
Above: The North Caicos Marina development includes a network of lined canals and a variety of lots with utilities already in place.
Banking on Land
North Caicos Marina project is ready for an investor.
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos By Provo Pictures
Being a realtor isn’t always easy. It is not just a matter of answering phone calls, giving property tours,
shuffling paperwork, and collecting a fat commission. For Nathan Smith, sales associate at Coldwell
Banker Real Estate Turks & Caicos, it occasionally involves ferry rides, car problems, twist ties, and lots
of patience and foresight. Let me explain.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 47

Nathan Smith has been the primary agent for
much of the undeveloped property on North Caicos,
especially lots in the Sandy Point surrounds, since
the early 2000s. This includes the areas of Sandcastle
Estates, Pumpkin Bluff, Seaside Estates, and the North
Caicos Yacht Club and Marina. Nathan worked with the
original developers of this area — Jim Gillette, Dale
Piergiovanni, and W.C. Grimsley Jr. — since the group
subdivided the land into plots for private homes, put
amenities into place, and planned an exclusive marina
community.
As we reported in the Summer 2004 Times of
the Islands, North Caicos was slated to become THE
next island to develop, as beachfront property on
Providenciales became scarce and unaffordable. The
Pumpkin Bluff and Sandcastle and Seaside Estates land
was prime oceanfront, with views of North Caicos’
deserted white sand beaches stretching from east to
west. And, in fact, many people did buy lots, build
villas, and have enjoyed the quiet, “old Caribbean” lifestyle
of the “Garden Island” of North Caicos. Others
purchased lots as speculation and made good profits
when the market spiked between 2002 and 2008.
However, after the 2008 “perfect storm” of
Hurricane Ike, the global economic downturn, and
alleged widespread government corruption ravaged
the Turks & Caicos, real estate sales and property values,
especially on North Caicos, slowly sunk. Only now,
after years of disciplined governance and a renewed
world economy, are prices rising again.
This January (2016) I traveled to North Caicos with
Nathan and his wife Sayfa to visit the North Caicos
Marina development. With great plans in mind, in
2006 the 153 acre site had been subdivided, including
97 canalfront lots, with five miles of canal and the
marina basin dug, roads paved, and utilities installed.
Unfortunately, the project’s completion just missed
the prosperity years and Nathan was able to sell about
1/3 of the residential lots, with one home built. With
the area still in excellent shape and the market poised
to soar, Nathan is ready to market the property again.
We took the Caicos Ferry from its Leeward terminus
on Providenciales directly to Sandy Point Marina
in North Caicos. The trip is about 25 minutes long,
and depending on the weather, either skirts the north
beaches of the Caicos Cays or skims the shallow southern
mangrove-lined “backside.” Arrival is always an
event, with Islanders, residents, and visitors mingling
with boxes of food and sundries, suitcases, beach
bags, and bicycles on the dock. Although the marina is
just across a small cut from the world famous celebrity
hide-out of Parrot Cay, it seems light-years away.
In our case, Nathan was set to drive us in the car he
had recently brought over from Provo, just for showing
potential clients around. Of course the battery was
dead, but he was prepared with a spare and off we
went after a quick jump. The first stop was at “Simply
the Best” Villa, one of original Seaside Estate luxury
homes. It is now for sale, and Nathan had arranged
for a professional photo shoot of the property the day
NATHAN SMITH
“Simply the Best” Villa is one of the original Seaside Estate luxury villas on North Caicos, boasting a spectacular oceanfront location.
48 www.timespub.tc

PROVIDENT LIMITED
Developing commercial and residential
properties since 1966
Most experienced,
most knowledgeable, and
with the largest inventory
of LAND AVAILABLE
for sale on
Providenciales
Properties available in:
Turtle Cove • Turtle Tail
Grace Bay • Long Bay
Ocean/Beach Front
Ocean View • Canal
Call Bengt Soderqvist
Ph: 649 946-4303 Fax: 649 946-4326 Email: provident@tciway.tc
P.O. Box 594, Providenciales, Turks & Caicos
15150 Golden Point Lane, Wellington, FL USA 33414
ALSO:
Commercial Areas
Marinas
Hotels • Condos
Private Homes
30Years
Assisting domestic and international clients for over 30 years
Tel + 1 649 946 4602 • Fax + 1 649 946 4848
Email reception@savory-co.com • Website www.savory-co.com
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 49

Kathryn is a founding member of
Turks and Caicos Real Estate
Association formed in 2000. She
was instrumental in writing and
implementing the manual for the
Association as well as Rules and
Regulations for the membership.
In 2007 she was voted the first
TCREA Ambassador by her peers. In 2009/10 she was part of a
Team that wrote the first Training Manual for TCREA; all new
members are required to complete the course and final exam
before being accepted as full members of the Association. She
served as President of the Association for five years (2008-
2013), as well as serving on many TCREA committees, some of
which she still serves.
Kathryn started her real estate career in Cayman Islands where
she worked for ERA for a number of years until her move to
TCI ERA Coralie Properties Ltd in 2000; she was brought to
implement the ERA system and manage the operation for the
newly franchised Coralie Properties. Over the years Kathryn
has become an active partner shareholder and Director of ERA
Coralie Properties Ltd., as well as being a successful sales
associate, consistently being in the top ten.
A background in interior design and retail fit well with a real
estate career; working well with people, high standard of
professionalism, integrity and quality service. Kathryn has
many repeat customers as well as a strong referral network.
If you want to learn about real estate in Turks & Caicos give
Kathryn a call, she will be pleased to meet you and help with
your real estate needs, wants, dreams...
Tel: 649 231 2329
Email: krbrown@era.tc
Web: www.eraturksandcaicos.com
Kathryn
Brown
ERA Coralie Properties Ltd.
before. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate,
and the photographer’s lights, props, and other pieces
of equipment had to be collected from the house and
brought BACK to the ferry to be returned to Provo. Job
1 for the day.
Nathan’s car ran smoothly along the well-paved
lanes as we drove through the North Caicos Marina
site. (Well, the windows wouldn’t roll down, but the
A/C was working, so who cared?) The property is
sprawling, well-kept, and looks a bit like a deserted
movie set. The canal is neatly lined with smooth vinyl
sea walls, the ideal place to anchor a boat. Arched
bridges lift the road up and over the blue-hued water,
in which I spotted a sea turtle swimming. Paved central
parkways are planted with flourishing palm trees,
sidewalks are dotted with street lights, and many lots
The Point is an exquisite residential land site on North Caicos,
with 600 linear feet of water frontage and a stretch of powder
white sand.
back into spectacular, unobstructed views of “wild”
North Caicos mangrove and bush, much of which is
a protected UNESCO site for migrating birds. There is
also a twelve acre private lagoon.
Nathan explained that his current plan is to try to
sell the property as a whole to a developer who would
take the project to the next level and build a finished
product, be it resort, condos, or a commercial community.
Alternatively, folks could purchase individual lots
(with freehold title) or groups of lots to keep in their
portfolio as a “land bank,” having the assurance that,
as prime TCI land can only grow more scarce, values
will rise. (If it was me, I would probably follow in the
path of the several homeowners who live on site. It
seems a peaceful, idyllic, tropical get-away.)
NATHAN SMITH
50 www.timespub.tc

Nathan likens the opportunity to that offered by
Provident Ltd. in Providenciales in the early 1960s,
with early speculators enjoying tremendous appreciation
rates on undeveloped beachfront, canalfront,
and hillside land. Now that TCI is a proven success,
the risk is small and return practically guaranteed. He
explained that TCI is the perfect environment for land
banking, as there are no holding taxes nor requirement
to build on or maintain property. English is the
primary language and the US dollar the currency.
Access is easy, with connecting flights available from
numerous cities. Besides, owning property gives purchasers
a good reason to visit . . . and bragging rights
to friends. An investment of $300,000 also makes it
possible to secure a coveted Permanent Residence
Certificate.
As we were touring the Marina Club site the car
began making strange noises. It almost seemed like
there was rubble rumbling under the hood. Oh well,
the engine was still running . . . except the A/C had
stopped, none of the electronics worked, and it looked
like something was hanging from the bottom of the
engine. We carried on.
Nathan showed me some of the villas and a group
of vacation rental cottages that had been built over
the course of the last ten years. Each was distinctive
and most large and luxurious, with pools, balconies,
beachfront patios, and roof-top terraces. Many are
now part of an established high end vacation rental
market in North Caicos. We marveled on how each
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Times of the Islands Spring 2016 51

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Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564
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Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70
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Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758
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had to be brought to North Caicos via barge or boat
and trucked to each building site. Nathan noted that
there are villas and waterfront lots still available for
purchase, all enjoying protective covenants for residential
development.
Nathan’s real estate career started in the Cayman
Islands, prior to coming to the TCI in 2002 to join the
Coldwell Banker team. Nathan’s style of selling has
always struck me as quite savvy and “bottom line.” He
markets in terms of investment value, long-term strategy,
positioning, and opportunity. He follows his own
advice too, admitting to speculative land purchases
in both North Caicos and Providenciales as part of his
portfolio. During the TCI’s slow-down, Nathan traveled
to Thailand where he met his (now) wife and they lived
on his farm in Australia as he made occasional trips to
the Islands. Now they are back and Nathan is ready to
move full-on into real estate sales here.
After one stop, the car wouldn’t start at all. The
spare battery got us going, but the motor didn’t sound
too keen. Rather than get stuck in the bush and miss
the ferry back to Provo, we headed to the dock and
literally coasted into the parking lot. Nathan asked
Goomie, a local Islander, to look under the hood; he
came out with what looked like a snake. It was the serpentine
belt, worn and broken. A new one would have
to be purchased and brought back on the next trip.
Goomie agreed to tape a plastic bag over the open
window (which wouldn’t roll up) as it began to rain.
(He was rewarded for his efforts with a case of beer
and some cash.)
Nathan’s final job of the day was to put up some
new “For Sale” signs and use plastic ties to carefully
hang his signboards below those already installed.
Since the car wasn’t running, we helped him carry the
signs (through the rain) to each location on foot, waiting
while he used his phone to snap photos of some
lots that were newly for sale.
Life on North Caicos — indeed all the out islands
— is like this day. Things can go wrong, break down,
be delayed, disappoint. But it always seems someone
is willing to help, smile, shrug, and have a good laugh.
And in the end, that’s all that matters. a
For more information on North Caicos property,
contact Nathan Smith at 649 231 5555 or email
nathansmith@coldwellbankertci.com.
52 www.timespub.tc

North Caicos Marina project dossier:
• Freehold purchase ready for immediate closing:
80+ freehold (absolute) titles
• 17 acres resort development parcel with over
400 linear ft. of north shore beach frontage orientated
for sunsets over the water
• 3,500 linear ft. commercially zoned waterfront
with marina ownership
• Marina frontage parcels: 1 to 12 acre sites for
hotels, resort, and commercial enterprise (marina
slips, watersports and dive operation, restaurants,
shops, car rental etc.)
• 60 residential canalfront lots, with a select eight
having channel beach frontage with boat docking
behind on title. Opposite world renowned Parrot
Cay Resort and Shambala Spa.
• Eight, one bedroom, well appointed cottages —
ideal for initial crew/management teams etc.
• Beach villa with excellent vacation rental figures.
• Discounted sales price for bulk purchase at
approx. 1/3 individual sale prices achieved in
2006–2007
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 53

3 Positive Forces Set to Reward
Greg McNally first started working as
a young lawyer in Turks and Caicos (TCI)
more than 23 years ago. As a founding
partner of what was once one of the
largest law firms on Provo, he quickly
became a fixture of the local business
scene, playing a part in numerous high
profile developments including The
Sands Resort, Northwest Point Resort
and The Island Club on Grace Bay Road.
And although he’s enjoyed much
success from the development of TCI
over the past few decades, he believes
the trends are pointing to a new
renaissance in local investment.
“It’s all about the trends.,” says McNally.
“Wealthier Canadian and American
travellers who stopped coming after
the financial crash are now returning,
pushing up the prices on the rental market. That’s causing certain
vacationers to look closely at the property market, pushing up
sale prices. And then there’s a whole new audience from Asia
and South America entering the TCI market for the first time.
Investors who get in early should benefit greatly.“
North Americans Are Returning in Big Numbers
Prior to 2008, Turks and Caicos was very popular for North
American travellers, especially from East Coast financial centres
like New York and Toronto. But with the recession came a dramatic
pullback that hit TCI hard as the jet setters sharply reduced spending.
According to McNally, that has now changed. “As wealthy
Canadians and Americans return, they are choosing to rent.
This has caused the rental market to explode. In the past year,
my investment penthouse in Grace Bay has been booked out
almost solid - even during off-season. It’s been quite lucrative.”
The result? It is pushing some wealthy renters into buying.
Growing Property Market to Push Up Prices
“The guys out of Toronto and New York are smart. They see
that spending $20,000 for a two week rental isn’t the best use of
money. So they’re looking closely at the property market again.”
In McNally’s mind, this will soon lead to appreciation in
certain types of property the affluent jet setters want. In fact,
his latest venture, Caya Private Residences, is set to help smart
vacationers capitalize on this trend. “I spotted an opportunity to
54 www.timespub.tc
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Properties like this 4,000 sq. ft. villa are set to appreciate greatly thanks to three powerful trends.
help these investors turn their rental expense into a real asset
with high potential for long-term capital appreciation.”
Whole New Markets Increase Demand
But arguably the most important trend in McNally’s eyes is
the attraction of Asians and South Americans to TCI.
“The people buying and building here are much different
than when I first started years ago. Back then, it was mostly
wealthy finance folks from the US and Canada. Now we’ve seen
different groups starting to take a real interest and invest real
money. This is the most exciting long term positive force for TCI.”
For example, Marriott has announced a project in the famous
beach area of Grace Bay. According to McNally, “What most
people don’t know is that the project is backed by a group of
Venezuelans. Their economy, as with many in the area that relied
on commodities, is in rough shape. They are looking to diversify
and are bringing serious money to the area.”
How to Capitalize on these Trends
If you’re interested in learning how you too could benefit
from these trends, McNally is offering a free investment guide to
qualified investors. You’ll discover how to buy TCI property for as
much as 20% under market rate.
Call 1-888-534-9021
(or internationally: +1-416-900-3522)
www.cayaprivateresidences.com

astrolabe
newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org
The coffin-shaped “body stones” atop The Island Cemetery have overlooked the Town Salina for centuries. Who was buried here?
DONALD KEITH
Someone Still Cares
By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation
Recent visitors to Grand Turk rekindled my interest in a particularly puzzling aspect of the history of Grand Turk.
In November, 89 year old Miss Lolita “Lita” Taylor came to the Museum seeking information about Lita’s great-great
grandfather, Reverend John Turtle, the first Methodist cleric on Grand Turk. Sadly, he passed away here at the age
of 32, a victim of “consumption.” We know this because we were able to locate the death notices from 1825. Lita
was hoping to locate his grave and pay her respects, but our research led to the conclusion that he was buried in the
neglected and abandoned cemetery on “The Island,” where none of the graves are identified. Lita’s visit made me
realize that someone far removed in time and distance still remembers and cares about the people interred there.
That, in turn motivated me to write the following article on “The Island Within the Island.”
Serendipitously, five descendants of Grand Turk’s famous 19th century helmet diver, Jeremiah Denis Murphy,
came to see the Museum’s new exhibit dedicated to his exploits. They included Dennis R. Murphy, Jeremiah’s greatgreat
grandson, three great-great-great grandchildren, and one great-great-great-great grandchild!
Readers will note that this issue contains much news about the Museum’s activities on Provo, ranging from efforts
to save the giant steam-powered traction engine on West Caicos to collaborating with educators and sponsors to
launch the first annual National Museum History and Cultural Heritage Quiz for secondary school students. A recent
generous donation from the Kiwanis Club of Providenciales will help to underwrite our other educational initiatives.
We are also partnering with the TCI Reef Fund to implement the Coral Reef Outreach Education Program. a
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 55

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
This is one of the intriguing groups of coffin-shaped markers, almost entirely engulfed in the bush, found in the old cemetery on The Island
on Grand Turk. The white limestone headstone at the left may have been imported from Bermuda.
The Island Within the Island
Solving the mystery of Grand Turk’s island cemetery.
Story & Photos By Dr. Donald H. Keith, President, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation
Beneath those rugged elms, that yew-tree’s shade,
Where heaves the turf in many a mould’ring heap,
Each in his narrow cell for ever laid,
The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep.
—Thomas Gray, 1751
Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Top: The old cemetery covers the top of The Island on Grand Turk, but
other graves and tombs lie scattered around the sides.
Right: The Island is located in the middle of Grand Turk’s Town Salina.
Grand Turk has an unusual geographical feature. In
the middle of the island there is a large, shallow lake
— the “Town Salina.” In the middle of the lake is “The
Island,” actually an island within an island. But that is
not what intrigues me. The island rears well above the
salina and is connected to the surrounding dry land only
by a narrow, obviously man-made causeway. Crowned by
a thicket of acacia bush the island looks desolate and
abandoned — and it is. Horses and donkeys occasionally
find their way out to it, but no one goes there.
The island first came to my attention in 1981, during
my second trip to Grand Turk. It was so peculiar that I
was compelled to have a look. At the end of the causeway
was a small abandoned shack, falling into ruin. I walked
around the island’s perimeter on a narrow sandy beach,
littered like an elephants’ graveyard with junked and
abandoned hulking, rusting motor vehicles and heavy
machinery.
Starting up an animal path to the island’s high ground,
I was astounded to find an elaborate above-ground stone
tomb in an advanced state of decay, surrounded by a low
wall. Continuing to the top of the hill I found myself in the
middle of an ancient, extensive graveyard, surrounded
by carefully carved but heavily weathered headstones,
walled family plots, shattered tombs, and even exposed
human bones. The concentration of graves and tombs
seemed to be at the very top of the high ground, but
the heavy overgrowth of impenetrable acacia and dense
bush obscured most of it. The extensive damage to the
cemetery seemed most likely due to livestock rather than
to vandalism.
I spent the rest of the afternoon there, examining
and photographing the site, looking for clues as to how
old the graveyard was, who was interred there, and what
their religious affiliation might have been. In spite of my
efforts I left without being able to answer any of these
questions. No inscriptions were preserved, and there
were no mortuary symbols that I could recognize. The
most distinctive feature was a group of coffin-shaped elevated
tombs unlike anything I had seen elsewhere.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 57

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Later, excited and puzzled by my discovery, I began
asking “old heads” and expats if anyone knew anything
about the graveyard and if so, what. Although everyone
I spoke to had heard about the graveyard, there was no
agreement on when it was created, who was there, or
what significance it had. I was told with absolute certainty
by various informants that the cemetery was specially for
“war heroes” (!), victims of a seventeenth century plague,
slaves, criminals, Bermudans, and people who for one
reason or another were not buried in one of the church
yards. It was clear that these explanations were based on
conjecture with no real evidence to back them up, and
most were highly unlikely to say the least. So who were
they? The surprising thing to me was that no one seemed
to be bothered by the fact that there was, literally in the
middle of Grand Turk, a major, very old, and historically
significant cemetery comprising scores of burials about
which the community knew less than nothing.
A few years later I assembled a four-person Ships of
Discovery project to map, photograph, and record the
accessible parts of the cemetery. We discovered that
although there is no visible wall or boundary for the cemetery’s
overall perimeter, the majority of the graves and
tombs seem to be concentrated at the island’s crest and
to cover an area of about 2,000 m 2 with an East–West
axis length of approximately 60 m and a North–South
axis of about 35 m. At some time in the recent past the
base of the island was bulldozed, apparently at random
and without consideration for the sacrilege such an act
represents, and an unknown number of graves were
destroyed. Human bones still littered the surface of the
earth. Their slopes steepened by bulldozing, the sides of
the island’s crest had begun to erode and slump, causing
further damage.
Oddly, no names or dates were discovered anywhere
in the graveyard. This is most likely due to poor preservation
and human pilfering rather than a failure to inscribe
the stones originally. Horses and donkeys appear to have
caused most of the damage to this site not directly attributable
to natural erosion. The stones are thin and weak
and easily broken when stepped on or tripped over. Once
the tombs have been broken up by animal or natural
agents their individual, less recognizable pieces easily fall
prey to people in need of stone for building material. A
long-time resident stated that in the recent past the marble
plaques on which the names and dates of deceased
persons had been carved were removed and used by local
people as cooling stones for making candy. Perhaps the
shallow recesses which may be seen on top of some of
the tombs once held these marble plaques.
A raised, elaborate tomb on the perimeter of the cemetery
site had partially collapsed, revealing the internal
timbers used to support its capstones. We considered
obtaining a radiocarbon date from one of these timbers,
but several samples would be needed and we had no
funds to cover the cost. Furthermore, radiocarbon dates
are not very precise, and would not necessarily indicate
when the tomb was built because the tree the timber came
from could have been cut decades earlier. We considered
the possibility that experts in mortuary architecture may
be able to recognize elements in the tombs, graves, and
headstones or their arrangements that would help us
identify when and by whom the cemetery was used, but
the authorities we contacted were just as puzzled as we
were. Still later, while exploring Salt Cay I stumbled over
similar coffin-shaped rock tombs in what appeared to be
This coffin-shaped grave marker lies at Salt Cay’s North Bluff.
an old cemetery at the northwestern corner of the island
just below the North Bluff. But again, there were no clues
to their age, no inscriptions, and no iconography or symbolism
to answer our questions.
The first breakthrough occurred sixteen years later
when Museum Founder Grethe Seim discovered an official
Ordinance passed in 1861 mentioning “The Island”
on Grand Turk and the “North Bluff” on Salt Cay as the
burial grounds for “the remains of many of the earlier
settlers on these Islands.” The Ordinance provided for
the creation of a Commission “empowered to have all
such burial grounds cleared and kept clean at the public
expense of enclosing, cleaning and keeping clean, [the
cost] to be defrayed out of the Public Treasury.” If nothing
else, this document told us that even as early as 1861
the cemetery on “The Island” had fallen into disuse and
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
abandonment, which certainly implied that many decades
had passed since the last interment there.
With a growing suspicion that the graves were related
to early Bermudan settlers of the Turks Islands and dated
to the eighteenth century — or even earlier — and nothing
more to go on than the mortuary architecture itself,
we began to look for similar grave and tomb designs
in Bermuda. In 2009 I happened to attend a presentation
by Dr. Bruce Elliott, Professor of History at Carleton
University in Ottawa, in which he showed images of what
he called “body stones” in a cemetery in Bermuda. They
were exactly like the “coffin-shaped” markers I had seen
on “The Island” and at the North Bluff! A lively correspondence
and exchange of photos ensued. Intrigued by the
photos and descriptions I sent, Dr. Elliott immediately
recognized mortuary characteristics he was familiar with
in Bermuda.
“There is a white headstone clearly visible at the left,
mounted at the end of one of the body stones. It bears
a striking resemblance to a common type of Bermuda
marker made of the local aeolian limestone. I attach
a photo of a similar stone in the slaves and free
blacks section of St Peter’s churchyard in St George’s.
The inscription panel (which in Bermuda often had
simply initials) typically is surrounded by a single or
double recessed edge and has incised lines dividing
it off from the lower part of the stone, as in your
example. The one in your photo looks to be made
of the soft Bermuda stone. These are impossible to
date as the surviving examples are mostly illegible,
though I have seen some from the 1760s, and until
further information comes in I would be hesitant
to place them more exactly than the long 18C, i.e.
including possibly earlier or later.
“The other photo shows a profusion of body stones
at Christ Church in Warwick. These are more characteristic
away from St George’s, but like the more
elaborate tombs they are impossible to date as any
inscriptions have long since worn away. You will
observe that these are coffin-shaped and have foot
and headstones flanking them. I would think the key
feature from your perspective would be whether what
you have are made of Bermuda stone. The headstone
that I commented on before is I would say definitely a
Bermuda product as it so closely resembles the common
run of headstones in Bermuda that were made
From top: These coffin-shaped graves, or “body stones” fill the yard
of Christ Church in Warwick, Bermuda.
This headstone is seen in the slaves and free blacks section of St.
Peter’s churchyard, Bermuda.
BRUCE ELLIOTT
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 59

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Historic ordinance for The Island
Why do the government and residents of Grand Turk
continue to ignore and neglect the cemetery on The
Island, the final resting place of some of the earliest
inhabitants of the Islands? If it is just a lack of awareness
perhaps this article will help.
An Ordinance from 155 years ago recognizes the
reasons why The Island cemetery and others like it
should be cared for and maintained at public expense.
If this should ever come to pass, the first step should
be to give them the benefit of a proper archaeological
investigation involving careful mapping and recording.
We may yet be able to recover clues that will lead to
definitive answers.
Ordinance No. 5, 1861
Enacted by the President and Council of the Turks and
Caicos Islands, under the supervision of the Captain
General and Governor in Chief in and over the Island
of Jamaica; For the enclosure of certain Public Burial
Grounds in the several the Parishes within the Colony,
and improving the same as Public Cemeteries.
Whereas the remains of many of the earlier settlers
on these Islands, have been deposited in certain unenclosed
places or burial Grounds at Grand Turk and Salt
Cay, which said burial Grounds are still remaining open
and the graves of the dead liable to be trampled over by
cattle, to the great annoyance of the surviving friends.
May it therefore Please Your Majesty that it may be
ordained by His Honor William Robert Inglis, Esquire,
President of the Council, Administering the Government
of the Turks and Caicos Islands and the Legislative
Council of the said Islands, under the Supervision of
the Captain General and Governor in Chief in and over
the Island of Jamaica and it is hereby ordained by the
authority of the same
1. That from and after the date that this ordinance
shall come into operation, it shall be lawful for His
Honor the President to nominate and appoint the Board
of Public Works as Commissioners for the purpose of
the Ordinance and the said Commissioners are hereby
authorized, directed and required to have the several
burial grounds now in use, and herein named suitable
and efficiently enclosed, either with stone or iron,
This is one of the larger enclosures of The Island’s cemetery.
namely in the Parish of St. Thomas, that burial ground
known as The Island, and at Salt Cay, that one at the
North Bluff and the other at White Hill also the Public
Burial Ground now used at Cockburn Harbour, and
the said four burial grounds, and all others set apart
by authority of this Ordinance, shall hereafter be held
and used as Public Cemeteries by all religious denominations
who desire to deposit the dead therein; and
the said several burial places, and the persons burying
therein shall be regulated by Rules formed by the
said Commissioners and approved by the President in
Council.
2. And the said Commissioners are hereby empowered
to have all such burial grounds cleared and kept clean
at the public expense of enclosing, cleaning and keeping
clean shall be defrayed out of the Public Treasury
from such sums as from time to time, shall be appropriated
for such purpose, by Warrant under the Hand
of the President directed to the Receiver General and
Treasurer.
Signed by President Inglis
Passed the Lesgislative Council on the nineteenth
day of July A.D. 1861
J.J. McIntosh — Clerk of Council
DONALD KEITH
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
of the local material in the 18C. I have seen dated
ones from the 1740s–60s, but the vast majority
are worn to illegibility. The headstone in T&C would
have been made in Bermuda and brought down; the
flat tombs would be much more likely to have been
made in T&C, especially if there is local architectural
stone there.”
Standing atop the island within the island in the fading
light of sunset, surrounded by the ancient cemetery,
I use what we have learned over the last thirty years to
answer my own questions. Who lies here beneath my
feet? Almost certainly they were second- or third-generation
eighteenth century Bermudan settlers, by which
time salt rakers were living on Grand Turk year-round.The
workmanship and elegance of the tombs and headstones
imply that they were prosperous and pious. What faith did
they observe? While some of the tombs and markers bear
a strong resemblance to examples at St. Peter’s Anglican
Church in Bermuda, the coffin-shaped “body stones” are
similar to those found at Christ Church in Warwick, which
is part of the Presbyterian Church of Scotland.
Why create a cemetery on an island within an island
instead of land associated with a church? This is a question
for which there is no certain answer. In some ways,
the island is a natural location for a cemetery. A simple
fence across the causeway would have prevented livestock
from entering to graze and damage the monuments
(still a problem in all the cemeteries on Grand Turk!). The
dead are laid to rest overlooking the Town Salina, the
source of their community’s prosperity. Carefully tended
and kept clear of overgrowth, the cemetery would have
been a prominent and conspicuous memorial to, and
reminder of, who the early settlers were.
Why did the cemetery lapse into anonymity? We found
no evidence that it was within the grounds of an ordained
church. Perhaps it was an extended family plot rather
than a public graveyard. At some point it fell into disuse,
probably when the last family members died out or
moved away. No one was left who felt a personal attachment
to the cemetery or sense of responsibility for its
upkeep. It is not an uncommon fate and recalls another
verse from Thomas Gray.
Yet ev’n these bones from insult to protect,
Some frail memorial still erected nigh,
With uncouth rhymes and shapeless sculpture deck’d,
Implores the passing tribute of a sigh. a
Museum matters
New exhibit opens
On January 13, 2016 the National Museum Foundation
held an opening for our members, volunteers, and
supporters. Guests were greeted with a glass of
Champagne and mingled in the front of the luminaria-lit
Museum. HE Governor Peter Beckingham did the
honor of cutting the ribbon to the newest exhibit:
a re-creation of a 19–20th century government
office. Governor
Beckingham’s own
office donated
the funding for
this new exhibit,
along with the
revitalization of
the John Glenn
Governor Beckingham cuts the ribbon and Military Base
to open the new exhibit showcasing
exhibits. Guests
19th century official seals, awards, and
emblems.
had a chance to
look at the new exhibits and ponder the stream of
old photos in the John Glenn room, then congregate
on the open air deck, where a slide show entertained
them while staff and volunteers passed out appetizers.
A special shout-out to volunteers Mitchell Loeb,
Catherine Foley, Jack and Janet Sheery, Hilary Day,
Claudia and Edger, and our staff Candianne, Fred,
Nikki and Cecile. a
By Museum Director Pat Saxton
Thank you Kiwanis
The National Museum is honored to have been
selected by the Kiwanis Club of Providenciales to be
the recipient of a $1,500 contribution, which represents
part of the proceeds raised from their annual
raffle. The Kiwanis Club’s mission is to serve the children
of the world, and to teach young people how
to serve their community to the best of their ability.
Kiwanis made its contribution to support our ongoing
work in the education of our young people, particularly
in Providenciales. This generous gift will help
our efforts to build a multipurpose museum on our
campus in the Village at Grace Bay. We appreciate this
support and look forward to working together in the
future. a By Museum Manager Candianne Williams
CANDIANNE WILLIAMS
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 61

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
GLEN FREIMUTH
This photo shows the submerged rock walls of Cory Pond as seen from ground level.
Crawling with Intrigue
What are the mysterious underwater features in Corey Pond?
By Glen Freimuth, Shaun Sullivan, Charlene Kozy, B Naqqi Manco
Archaeologists are always looking down at the ground for this is the location of their stock and trade,
signs of past remains. One of us, Shaun Sullivan, was looking down upon Middle Caicos with the aid
of Google Earth (Digital Globe) satellite images and observed something unusual in Corey Pond, a salt
water feature located one kilometer northwest of Bambarra. It appeared as lines of subsurface rock walls
arranged in rectangular units. This piqued our interest because we had conducted archaeological excavations
at a Lucayan site, MC-12, located 800 meters northwest of the Pond. Could these strange features be
associated with the thirteenth century occupation of MC-12? We needed to conduct an onsite inspection.
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astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
During March 2014 we journeyed to Middle Caicos
for a visit to renew old acquaintances and re-examine
some archaeology, including the Corey Pond features.
Upon arriving at Corey Pond we found that the features
were indeed manmade rock walls, quite visible in the
crystalline waters, most slightly breaking the surface.
The walls were measured, photographed, and mapped.
The features measured from four to ten meters wide and
extended from the shoreline four to eight meters out
into the pond. The height of the walls varied from ten
to over sixty centimeters; the width varied from thirty to
forty-five centimeters of stacked rough limestone rocks.
The outer walls (near the center) curved to parallel the
shoreline and hole. The walls appeared to be intact. Four
of the features shared a common wall but one was isolated.
In all, there was approximately 114 linear meters
of walls. This represents a considerable amount of effort
to construct.
We conducted limited test excavations within and
along the walls, screening the sediments in the hope
of recovering diagnostic artifacts, but alas, found nothing
but some very small fish and bivalves. We surveyed
the surrounding shore banks for evidence of prehistoric
activity but recovered nothing.
We tried to think how the Lucayans may have utilized
such features — ocean catch holding pens or the foundations
for structures? With the lack of any prehistoric
artifacts or associations we turned to the historic era for
possible answers. We made inquiries to several older residents
in Bambarra about the pond features but no one we
spoke to could recall the features or their function. Was
this a dead end?
Interestingly, we recently conducted research on
Cotton Cay where the topic of sisal production in the
Islands emerged. According to H.E. Sadler’s Turks Islands
Landfall, sisal was introduced into the Caicos Islands in
the mid-1800s by Henshall Stubbs. By the 1890s world
demand for sisal products grew and large sisal plantations
were established on East Caicos (3,000 acres) and West
Caicos (1,000 acres). By the early 1900s these commercial
enterprises had ceased production. In the mid-1940s
demand for sisal products again increased and 600 acres
in the Caicos were planted in sisal with production until
the mid-1950s, but these commercial operations seemed
to have ceased by the late 1950s. They relied upon mechanization
to crush the sisal leaves and extract the fibers
This Google Earth image of Corey Pond on Middle Caicos shows the
four mysterious underwater walled structures. The pond is a classic
“cenote,” a geological feature formed when the surface of the earth
collapses into an underground cave system.
which were then dried in the sun but not allowed to get
wet. However, small scale or local sisal production was
not mechanized and required the cut sisal leaves to be
soaked in fresh or salt water to soften the outer shell and
extract the fibers.
We turned to two colleagues for assistance, Turks &
Caicos historian Dr. Charlene Kozy and Turks & Caicos
biologist/botanist B Naqqi Manco. Dr. Kozy’s research
indicated the area around Corey Pond had been a 4,000
acre plantation owned and operated by Thomas Brown in
the late 1700s. Indeed, the numerous stone walls, some
very large like boundary lines, around and into Corey
Pond bear witness to the plantation occupation. Brown
planted numerous crops but not sisal, nor is there any
record that his 600 slaves planted sisal. So it seemed the
pond features are not associated with the Brown plantation
activities.
Naqqi made some inquiries and in conversation with
Brodie Forbes learned that the “rock crawls” as they are
locally known (probably referring to corrals), were used
to soak sisal produced in small scale local production
by Islanders. They retained the soaking sisal within the
crawls, preventing them from floating over the entire
pond. This production was apparently sold to a local sisal
mill in Bottle Creek, North Caicos which ceased operation
sometime in the 1960s. In addition, the construction of
the crawls is consistent with the many kilometers of plan-
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 63

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
NIGEL SADLER
tation walls throughout the Turks & Caicos Islands. But
the question remains, “Why use Corey Pond?”
There are several other ponds nearby — Flamingo
Pond, Washing Pond, and a pond along the Bambarra
Road. Flamingo Pond and the Bambarra Road pond have
fish and Washing Pond is a fresh water source, so named
because the women from Bambarra would use it to wash
clothes during dry periods. None of these ponds have
any known features like Corey Pond. The answer may be
This aerial view of a pond on East Caicos includes an abandoned
sisal preparation field beside it. Corey Pond was probably used in a
similar way.
ownership, convenience, or location — we simply do not
know at this time.
So it would appear we have an explanation for the
mysterious Corey Pond features: Probably constructed
ca. 1950 for local sisal production and used by Islanders
until the 1960s to soak sisal leaves and extract the fibers
which were then sold to a mill in Bottle Creek.
Mysteries still beckon the archaeologist. Indeed, it
would be interesting to have divers enter the hole in the
center of the pond and explore its interior. a
Museum matters
History and cultural heritage quiz
The Museum will launch the first annual National
Museum History and Cultural Heritage Quiz for secondary
school students, as one of the events planned
to mark its 25th anniversary. The quiz will take place
on March 1, 2016 and be one of the feature events
of Education Week, which is organized by the TCI
Department of Education. Director of Education Edgar
Howell, Education Officer David Bowen, and Deputy
Director of Education Mark Garland all welcomed this
initiative and have pledged their full support. Their
assistance has been invaluable.
On November 25, 2015, the Museum held a workshop
for secondary school history teachers at the
Museum’s Development Office in the Village at Grace
Bay, Providenciales. The workshop served to reintroduce
the Museum as an educational resource as well
as assist teachers with preparation for the quiz. Mr.
Garland reminded teachers of the important role they
play in passing on the Islands’ cultural heritage.
An engaging group of facilitators delivered excellent
presentations on the TCI’s history and cultural heritage,
including Museum Director Pat Saxton, Museum Tour
Guide Nikki Jennings, DEMA Environmental Outreach
Coordinator Amy Avenant, Angela Freites from the
Department of Culture and David Bowen (the other
one!) from Grace Bay Resorts Community Foundation.
The TCI Reef Fund, DEMA, and the Museum are collaborating
on a Coral Reef Program for schools (see
next page). TCI Reef Fund Founder Don Stark made a
presentation about this important part of the natural
Dr. Glen Freimuth is a retired archaeologist, Dr. Shaun
Sullivan is a retired archaeologist, Dr. Charlene Kozy is a
retired historian, and B. Naqqi Manco is the Caicos Pine
Recovery Project Manager working for the Department of
Environment and Maritime Affairs.
TALISHA SIMONS
The Museum’s workshop for secondary school history teachers was
well-attended, with a full roster of activities.
64 www.timespub.tc

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
heritage. The discussion and feedback generated were
helpful and motivating.
Teachers who participated in the workshop represented
eight secondary schools from across the Turks &
Caicos Islands, including the H. J. Robinson High School
in Grand Turk, Raymond Gardiner High School in North
Caicos, Marjorie Basden High School in South Caicos, and
Clement Howell High School, Maranatha High School,
Wesley Methodist School, Long Bay High School and
TCIPS Comprehensive High School in Providenciales. The
schools are all excitedly preparing for the quiz’s preliminary
written quiz round. The two schools gaining the
most points will advance to the finals. The grand prize
for the winning team and coach will be the Caicu Naniki
Sports Adventure — a three day/two night tour to the
historic city of Cap Haitien. One of the trip’s highlights
will be an excursion to the Citadelle Fortress which is the
largest in the Americas and a UNESCO protected World
Heritage Site. Special thanks to Ben Stubenberg of Caicu
Naniki Tours and Chloe Zimmermann of Marco Travel for
their support and part-sponsorship of this prize.
Manager of Corporate Communications Talisha
Simons at Fortis TCI, the corporate sponsor of the quiz,
reiterated the company’s commitment to the education of
TCI’s youth and their interest in the country’s history and
cultural heritage.
Fortis TCI is also the sponsor of the National Science
Fair for Primary and Secondary Schools, one of the most
anticipated events on the Education Week Calendar. This
year, the Museum’s quiz will add a history and cultural
heritage element to the week’s activities. Thank you
Fortis TCI for your continued support. a
The Murphy visit
On New Year’s Eve, 2015, the Murphy clan came to Grand
Turk via cruise ship to see the Museum’s new exhibit
honoring their illustrious ancestor, Jeremiah, one of the
earliest helmet divers in the Caribbean area and a resident
of Grand Turk over 150 years ago. The clan included
Dennis R. Murphy, Jeremiah’s great-great grandson, his
wife, Charlene, and their children Dennis, Ashley, and
Tracy. Dennis gave the Museum a family tree, which was
very interesting since we can recognize a lot of the names
of folks living on Grand Turk today. Tim Dunn, co-owner
of the White House on Salt Cay, stopped in to talk to
Dennis R. Murphy (at center), great-great grandson of Grand Turk’s
famous 19th century helmet diver, Jeremiah Denis Murphy, with
son Jeremiah (left) and daughter Ashley.
Dennis, as they are actually related. Thank you Dennis,
for all that you and your family have donated and the
stories that you always share. Come back soon and stay
longer. a
Join the Museum
By Museum Director Pat Saxton
Become a Member and receive a year’s subscription
to Times of the Islands (which includes
Astrolabe), free admission to the Museum, and a
Members’ Discount in the Museum Shop.
Senior (62+) $35 • Individual $50
Family/Friend $100
Sponsor $250• Contributor $500 • Partner $750
To join*, send name, address, email, and type of
membership, along with cheque or money order
payable to “Turks & Caicos National Museum” to:
Friends of the Turks & Caicos National
Museum
39 Condesa Road
Santa Fe, NM 87508 USA
Or, visit:
www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/
*For U.S. residents, support of the Museum is tax-deductible via
Friends of the Turks & Caicos National Museum, Attn: Donald
H. Keith, 39 Condesa Road, Santa Fe NM 87508, our affiliated
institution and registered 501 (c) (3).
PAT SAXTON
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 65

astrolabe newsletter of the Turks & Caicos National Museum
Museum matters (continued)
Preserving steam tractor on West Caicos
Minister of Tourism, Environment, Heritage and Culture
Hon. Portia Stubbs-Smith, accompanied by Permanent
Secretary Desiree Lewis and Personal Assistant Garde
Alleyne, visited the Museum’s Development Office in
Grace Bay. Museum Board Member Mark Parrish and
Museum Representative Candianne Williams had the
pleasure of meeting with them and discussing the
Museum’s future plans.
Mr. Parrish made a passionate and stirring presentation
on the Burrell Steam Road Locomotive built in
1903 that is currently deteriorating on West Caicos.
He made a case for the steam tractor’s restoration and
preservation by the National Museum with the fully
restored steam tractor being a feature exhibit at the
site of the new museum to be built in Grace Bay.
A week later, the minister, along with Tourist
Board Chairman Don Gardiner and DEMA Director John
Claydon joined Mark Parrish and Stan Hartling on a site
visit to the steam engine on West Caicos.
The Museum wants to thank Hon. Stubbs-Smith for
her continued commitment to the preservation of the
TCI’s. We eagerly anticipate government approval to
move forward on this very exciting project. a
Coral reef outreach education program
Visitors to the TCI are awestruck by the beauty of our
spectacular coral reefs. They are an integral part of our
tourism product and a great contributor to our local
economy. They also expand and protect our shorelines,
constitute our first line of defense against erosion, and
for many underwater species, they are simply home.
Hon. Portia Stubbs-Smith, TCI Minister of Tourism, Environment,
Heritage, and Culture, makes an on-site inspection of the 1903
Burrell Traction Engine on West Caicos.
The exhibit on the second floor of the National
Museum on Grand Turk depicts our coral reef and some
of its many inhabitants. This year we are going a step
further by partnering with TCI Reef Fund on a Coral
Reef Outreach Education Program. Students who visit
the museum will be able to view an educational video,
with grade-appropriate activities in which to participate
or take back to their classrooms. The video will feature
scenes by Don Stark, underwater videographer, awardwinning
producer, and one of the founding members
of the TCI Reef Fund.
Students who don’t make it to the Museum will not
be left out. Together with the Reef Fund we have prepared
an outreach box that will enable us to take the
coral reef program to them. Students in Providenciales
have the additional option of visiting the Museum’s
Development Office where the coral reef lesson will
also be available.
We are excited about this first phase and we have
plans to develop it further with our youth and the wider
community. Our hope is that this would be a step in
the right direction. We believe that by getting a better
understanding and appreciation for the coral reef, we
will value it more and not let our human activity contribute
to the many challenges that threaten coral reefs’
survival. We all have to take responsibility for the protection
of our natural heritage, not just for ourselves
but for future generations. a
DON STARK
By Museum Manager Candianne Williams
66 www.timespub.tc

faces and places
Attendees at the gala event (from left): Lucie Winton-Stubbs. Wisland Toussaint, Terry Drummey, Youth Centre Director Roxann Wake-Forbes,
Joe Zahm, and Galmo “Gilley” Williams. Dominque Rolle, Monty Dhaliwal, and Li Welch.
Edward Gartland Youth Centre Fundraiser
On January 30, 2016, the Edward Gartland Youth Centre, in collaboration with Amanyara Resorts, Gilley’s Enterprises,
Turks & Caicos Sotheby’s International Realty, and Finishing Touch, hosted “An Exclusive Evening of Art.” The event
included an art show and live auction at the exclusive resort, featuring the work of local artists and international
guest artist Philippe Dodard. The sold-out event raised $40,000, with an additional $35,000 pledged to benefit the
building of a music studio/bandstand at the centre that will help develop the creative arts program, a positive outlet
for TCI youth to express their talents and energy.
By Claire Parrish ~ Photography by Kellie Luker Photography
From left: Jill Beckingham, Stan Hartling, Joan Hagan, HE Governor Peter Beckingham. Belinda Martin, Gareth Foster, Linda Foster. Mona Ki
and Dee Agingu.
From left: Julian Hawkings, June Hawkings, Phylicia Hawkins. Sean Brathwaite, Sandra Lightbourne, Wence Martin, Curtis Knight. Roxann Wake-
Forbes, Arthur Baldwin, Cynthia Baldwin.
From left: John Wright, Patricia Simpson. Mike Fraser, Mark Earl, John Stirling, Chandra Tolani, Galmo “Gilley” Williams, Jai Tolani, Toni Sottak.
Drew Capron and Pañagiotis Mapkropoulo.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 67

sporting life
Opposite page: Children can learn to sail on the Provo Sailing Club’s Pico dinghies.
Above: The Provo Sailing Club’s headquarters is in the Children’s Park in The Bight, Providenciales.
Over the Deep Blue Sea
TCI Sailing Association is a boon to the sailing community.
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy Provo Sailing Club
The Turks & Caicos Islands are surrounded by some of the world’s most beautiful seas, and sailing is a
superb way to enjoy them. There’s something magical about harnessing the wind’s invisible power to
fill a sail and propel a graceful boat through the water. Sailors have long been drawn to the Islands to
practice their art, and sailboats played an important role in the country’s heritage. The Turks & Caicos
Islands Sailing Association fosters the resident sailing community through lessons, races, and regattas.
It is a well-organized and joyful group, who seeks to spread the love of their sport across the TCI.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 69

The now-legendary Fool’s Regatta was first held on
April 1, 1990 in Sapodilla Bay. Each year, it grew in popularity
with sailors and beachside well-wishers, eventually
moving to Grace Bay and adding many new events. Its
early participants formed the backbone of the Provo
Sailing Club in 1998. The organization’s original intent
was to hold informal races among sailing enthusiasts
in Providenciales. The club has since expanded to teach
hundreds of new sailors and host internationally recognized
regattas. In 2010, Provo Sailing Club had to form
the Turks & Caicos Islands Sailing Association (TCISA) to
become a member of the International Sailing Federation.
The association gained energy and enthusiasm,
and by 2011 was holding regular races for junior and
senior sailors, offering training programs, and hosting
“Sail Away” socials to raise operating funds. By 2012,
they were able to purchase 12 Laser Picos for use by
club members and in 2014, an 18 boat fleet of 40 sailors
participated in the Queen’s Baton Relay, with local sailor
Justin Parker bearing the baton. The club now operates
from a group of weathered buildings at the Children’s
Park in The Bight, where their fleet of sailboats is “parked”
in the sand.
I recently spoke to Keir Clarke, who was hired to take
over management of the Provo Sailing Club in September
2015 by President David Douglas. Keir is a former
European Laser Champion, who “retired” at the age of 22
from the stressful life of the sail racing circuit to make
use of his talents in organization and teaching to continue
the growth and development of the thriving club.
Sailing has taken Keir all over the world, from Zanzibar
to Vietnam, but on arrival in the Turks & Caicos, he fell
in love with the country’s unique blend of “old and the
new.” He is overjoyed by the fact that while he is working
with modern, new, racing dinghies, he is essentially
teaching an age-old traditional skill, which we can still
catch a glimpse of in parts of the Islands.
It’s still possible to see the hand-built native sloops
that were once the lifeline of the TCI economy, especially
in the Providenciales communities of Blue Hills and Five
Cays, and on the islands of North, Middle and South
Caicos. Made from the wood of local trees, these sturdy
vessels expedited travel and trade between the Islands,
and to the nearby Caribbean region. Their brave sailors
regularly braved weather, tides, reefs, and equipment
breakdowns.
Provo Sailing Club Manager Keir Clarke and a host of volunteers are responsible for a thriving Kids Sailing Club every Sunday afternoon in
the sparkling waters of Grace Bay.
70 www.timespub.tc

I think that’s why Keir is so enthusiastic about the
sailing lessons TCISA offers for adults and children. He
sees it as an opportunity to pass along the skills that were
so important to the country’s founding fathers. He says,
“It’s my favorite part of the job. We have a Kid’s Sailing
Club every Sunday afternoon. I went to the schools to
introduce the program and we now have 20 to 25 kids
coming regularly to learn how to handle the boats and
sail. We offer five week Level 1 and 2 certification courses
on our Laser Pico and Hobie Wave sailboats. It’s a fun
environment, but the kids do get serious training in all
the aspects of seamanship. Sailing courses follow the syllabus
of the Royal Yachting Association.” Keir is especially
gratified by a group of boys from the rugged Dockyards
area of Kewtown. He says they make a special effort to
show up each Sunday and have progressed so far that
they are now helping him give lessons to other children
and keep the boats and clubhouse in order. In fact, the
club strongly believes that sailing fosters youth leadership,
sportsmanship, environmental stewardship, and so
makes available sailing scholarships to local schoolchildren.
Keir’s goal, apart from introducing new people to
the sport and gaining club memberships, is to build up
the club’s Youth Squad, in under 12 and under 18 age
categories, to compete in Inter-Caribbean regattas. Many
of the young sailors learned from volunteer coaches in
the club’s Junior Sailing Clinics started in 2010: Adam
Twigg, Simon Wood, Robin Spruce, Dave Keil, Mardie
Doverspike, Jeff Lee, Joe Lemoyne, Darryn Mcarthur, Tim
Hanlon, Kristof Lingier, Pat Staples, and Commodore Mike
Rosati. The Youth Squad currently trains on Tuesdays,
Thursdays, and Saturdays, maneuvering the small boats
in racing courses to hone their skills in tacking, gybing,
and ultimately becoming experts in racing.
In December 2015, top club sailor Daniella Douglas
journeyed to Malaysia to participate in the World Youth
Sailing Championships (WYSC). It was a great learning
experience, as Daniella first participated in an
International Sailing Federation Emerging Nations Sailing
Clinic in Antigua in July, then trained on a borrowed Laser
boat, receiving a WYSC scholarship to go to Malaysia.
She finished 45th out of 54 (in the “emerging nations”
division, she placed ninth out of fifteen sailors.) Keir’s
expertise in coaching, equipment adjustments, and sailing
in international events was key, and in December the
PSC purchased six new Olympic Class Laser Radials.
TCISA also hosts sailing lessons for adults
(Wednesdays at 4:30), sailing camps on school holidays,
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 71

Laser training on Saturdays, and Hobie races on Friday
nights.
Among other sailing events, they host the annual
Heritage Regatta each October, in which local sloops and
dinghies compete, and, of course, the Fool’s Regatta,
now held in mid-June and bigger and better than ever.
It includes races between schools, resorts, kids, parents,
kayaks, and even rafts!
Club funds are raised through membership dues,
social events, and sponsors. Membership (offered weekly,
monthly, or yearly) allows use of club boats and discounted
fees for lessons and programs. Keir is keen to
promote villa memberships and daily memberships for
long and short-term visitors so they can enjoy sailing
during their vacations.
Social events are held throughout the year. The
most recent Christmas Party raised nearly $13,000. This
February, TCISA held one of several annual open houses
at the beachfront headquarters to introduce to the community
the joys of sailing. The events are lively, fun-filled,
and a great get-together, with Turks Head Brewery consistently
donating plenty of cold beverages to keep everyone
well-lubricated.
TCSA is proud of its many sponsors (see opposite
page). Besides local organizations donating services,
materials, or prizes for races and events, the club’s major
sponsors are recognized with their logo on the sail of a
boat. What better way to “see and be seen” than to have
your logo sailing up and down Grace Bay or circumnavigating
the island? a
From top: The Provo Sailing Club hosts a number of annual regattas
including the Heritage Regatta each October and the ever-popular
Fool’s Regatta.
For more information, visit www.tcisailing.com or
Facebook Group, Provo Sailing Club, or Facebook Page,
Turks And Caicos Islands Sailing Association.
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72 www.timespub.tc

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Times of the Islands Spring 2016 73

shape up
Savor the flavor of eating right
By Tamika Handfield MS, RD, Nutrition in Demand
Every year during the month of March, the Academy
of Nutrition and Dietetics (AND) celebrates National
Nutrition Month. For us at Nutrition in Demand, it is an
honor to join our colleagues in bringing awareness to
the importance of healthy eating not only during March,
but throughout the year. However, the importance of
making healthy choices throughout life is emphasized
and highlighted during National Nutrition Month. The
theme for this year’s celebration is “Savor the Flavor of
Eating Right.”
According to AND, this year’s theme encourages
everyone to take time to enjoy food traditions and
appreciate the pleasures, great flavors, and social experiences
food can add to our lives. I have long realized
that food is more than just what you see on your plate
at a given meal. What do I mean by this? Well, I’m sure
many of you have a favorite comfort food, a food that
you go to when you are stressed out or depressed or
just in a funky mood. Have you ever stopped to think
why you crave this food during those sad times? Could
it be that during your childhood, your mother gave you
that treat after a bad test grade or a fall off of your bicycle?
Could it be that this was the last food you shared
with a close friend or relative before a tragic accident?
Without realizing it, you have formed an emotional
attachment to that particular food and inadvertently
trained your brain that this will make you feel better in
times of distress.
Many of us do not think about food in this way and
because we never make the connection, this can lead
to mindless eating — one of the many culprits of obesity
in adults and children. In his book Mindless Eating:
Why We Eat More Than We Think, Cornell University
Professor Brian Wansink shows that how much we eat,
where we eat, and when we eat are just as important as
what we eat. How many times have you polished off an
entire bag of Doritos or Cheetos while watching your
favorite television show or hurriedly “snuff” lunch down
at your desk because you had to make a meeting?
Thankfully, there is hope. You can turn those mindless
eating habits into mindful
eating habits by simply slowing
down when you eat to
really enjoy the flavor of each
bite. Find a quiet place to eat
instead of at your desk. Pour
food out of the packages onto smaller plates and slimmer
glasses. All these tips can help you to be more
mindful of the foods you eat and savor the flavor of
your food.
As I have shown, food has emotional ties; however,
food also has social attachments. When we gather with
our friends and families for various holidays, food is a
major part of the celebration. During these get-togethers,
we are making memories for years to come. Make
savoring the flavor of your food a part of your family’s
tradition. Take the time to focus on the blend of flavors
you are tasting, the colors, textures, and the overall
eating experience. Traditional family recipes tend to
be high in flavor, but also high in sodium, fat, and calories.
Try to find new and innovative ways to boost the
flavor while lessening unwanted nutrients.
To celebrate National Nutrition Month and
Registered Dietitians Day on March 9, Nutrition in
Demand will be organizing a number of workshops for
churches, schools and the community as well as visiting
a few of the family islands. a
This article is brought to you by Nutrition in Demand,
a nonprofit aimed at raising health and healthy eating
through a variety of workshops, seminars, nutrition
and physical activity camps, culinary and nutrition
education classes for schoolchildren, public service
announcements, and print and visual media. For more
information on Nutrition in Demand, please visit our
website: www.nutritionindemand.com or follow us on
social media — Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.
74 www.timespub.tc

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Times of the Islands Spring 2016 75

about the Islands
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps of the Turks & Caicos Islands, the
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout the Islands. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.
Where we are
The Turks & Caicos Islands lie some 575 miles southeast
of Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —
with the Bahamas about 30 miles to the northwest and
the Dominican Republic some 100 miles to the southeast.
The country consists of two island groups separated
by the 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To the west are
the Caicos Islands: West Caicos, Providenciales, North
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To
the east are the Turks Islands: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles of land
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s
population is approximately 32,000.
Getting here
There are international airports on Grand Turk, North
Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic
airports on all of the islands except East Caicos.
At this time, all of the major international carriers
arrive and depart from Providenciales International
Airport. American Airlines flies three times daily from
Miami, daily from Charlotte, and from Boston, Dallas,
and Philadelphia on Saturday. JetBlue Airways offers daily
service from New York/JFK and Fort Lauderdale, and from
Boston on Saturday and Sunday. Delta Airlines flies from
Atlanta and New York/JFK daily. United Airlines travels
from Newark on Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday, and from
Chicago on Saturday.
West Jet travels from Toronto daily except Thursday
and from Montreal on Wednesday. Air Canada offer
76 www.timespub.tc

flights from Toronto daily except Tuesday and Thursday
and from Montreal on Sunday. British Airways travels on
Thursday and Sunday from London/Heathrow via Antigua.
Bahamasair flies to Nassau on Thursday and Sunday;
Inter-caribbean Airways travels on Monday, Wednesday,
and Friday. Inter-caribbean Airways and Caicos Express
travel to Haiti daily, while Inter-caribbean Airways flies
to the Dominican Republic daily (except Wednesday);
to Jamaica on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday,
and to Puerto Rico on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday.
(Schedules are current as of February 2016 and subject
to change.)
Inter-island service is provided by Inter-caribbean
Airways, Caicos Express Airways, and Global Airways. Sea
and air freight services operate from Florida.
Language
English.
Time zone
Atlantic Standard Time (AST) observed year-round.
Currency
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.
dollars are widely accepted and other currency can be
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.
Climate
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The
hottest months are September and October, when the
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,
the consistent easterly trade winds temper the heat and
keep life comfortable.
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing
and a sunhat and use waterproof sunscreen when out
in the tropical sun.
Entry requirements
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.
Customs formalities
Visitors may bring in duty free for their own use one carton
of cigarettes or cigars, one bottle of liquor or wine,
and some perfume. The importation of all firearms including
those charged with compressed air without prior
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 77

about the Islands
approval in writing from the Commissioner of Police is
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth of
merchandise per person duty free. A duty of 10% to
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source of
government revenue.
Transportation
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting
vehicles. A government tax of 12% is levied on all
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on the
left-hand side of the road, with traffic flow controlled by
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and
drive! Taxis are abundant throughout the Islands and
many resorts offer shuttle service between popular visitor
areas. Scooter, ATV, and bicycle rentals are also available.
Telecommunications
LIME Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,
including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts
and some stores and restaurants offer wireless Internet
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with a full
suite of LTE 4G service. LIME is the local carrier for CDMA
roaming on US networks such as Verizon and Sprint.
North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets and
wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can arrange
international roaming.
Electricity
120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.
Departure tax
US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in
cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into the
cost of your ticket.
Courier service
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with offices on
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is
limited to incoming delivery.
Postal service
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is
located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,
the Post Office is on Front Street, with the Philatelic
Bureau on Church Folly. The Islands are known for their
varied and colorful stamp issues.
Media
Multi-channel satellite television is received from the U.S.
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over the air.
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television offers 75 digitally
transmitted television stations, along with local news
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number of
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.
Medical services
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.
Both hospitals offer a full range of services including:
24/7 emergency room, operating theaters, diagnostic
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,
physiotherapy, and dentistry.
In addition, several general practitioners operate in
the country, and there is a recompression chamber, along
with a number of private pharmacies.
Immigration
A resident’s permit is required to live in the Islands. A
work permit and business license are also required to
work and/or establish a business. These are generally
granted to those offering skills, experience, and qualifications
not widely available on the Islands. Priority is given
to enterprises that will provide employment and training
for T&C Islanders.
Government/Legal system
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed
Governor, HE Peter Beckingham. He presides over an executive
council formed by the elected local government.
PNP Leader Dr. Rufus Ewing is the country’s premier.
The legal system is based upon English Common
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges of the Court
of Appeal visit the Islands twice a year and there is a final
Right of Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.
Taxes
There are currently no direct taxes on either income
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no
78 www.timespub.tc

POC16-Where When How 2.25 x 9.875 Ad FNL 012816
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs duties and fees,
stamp duty, taxes on accommodations, restaurants, vehicle rentals, other
services and gasoline, as well as business license fees and departure taxes.
Economy
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on the export of salt. Currently, tourism,
the offshore finance industry, and fishing generate the most private sector
income. The Islands’ main exports are lobster and conch, with the world’s
first commercial conch farm operating on Providenciales. Practically all consumer
goods and foodstuffs are imported.
The Turks & Caicos Islands are recognised as an important offshore
financial centre, offering services such as company formation, offshore insurance,
banking, trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies. The
Financial Services Commission regulates the industry and spearheads the
development of offshore legislation.
People
Citizens of the Turks & Caicos Islands are termed “Belongers” and are primarily
descendants of African slaves who were brought to the Islands to work on
C
the salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large expatriate population
includes Canadians, Americans, Brits and Europeans, along with
M
Haitians,
Jamaicans, Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.
Churches
CY
Churches are the center of community life and there are many faiths represented
in the Islands, including: Adventist, Anglican, Assembly of God, Baha’i,
CMY
Baptist, Catholic, Church of God of Prophecy, Episcopal, Faith Tabernacle
K
Church of God, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are
always welcome.
Pets
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary health certificate, vaccination
certificate, and lab test results to be submitted at the port of entry
to obtain clearance from the TCI Department of Agriculture, Animal Health
Services.
National symbols
The National Bird is the Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis). The National
Plant is Island heather (Limonium bahamense) found nowhere else in the
world. The National Tree is the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var. bahamensis).
The National Costume consists of white cotton dresses tied at the waist
for women and simple shirts and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors
representing the various islands are displayed on the sleeves and bases. The
National Song is “This Land of Ours,” by the late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas
and Hominy (Grits) with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.
Y
CM
MY
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 79

Going green
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently offers recycling services
through weekly collection of recyclable aluminum,
glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading
a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.
Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.
Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!
Recreation
Sporting activities are centered around the water. Visitors
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling,
scuba diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,
and beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life,
and excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving
destination. Tennis and golf—there is an eighteen hole
championship course on Providenciales—are also popular.
The Islands are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in
thirty-three national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries,
and areas of historical interest. The National Trust
provides trail guides to several hiking trails, as well as
guided tours of major historical sites. There is an excellent
national museum on Grand Turk, with a future
branch planned for Providenciales. A scheduled ferry and
a selection of tour operators make it easy to take day
trips to the outer islands.
Other land-based activities include bicycling, horseback
riding, and football (soccer). Personal trainers are
available to motivate you, working out of several fitness
centres. You will also find a variety of spa and body treatment
services.
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are
two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods,
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a
80 www.timespub.tc

where to stay
Grand Turk
range of daily rates
US$ (subject to change)
number of units
major credit cards
restaurant
bar
air conditioning
phone in unit
television in unit
kitchen in unit
laundry service
pool
on the beach
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The Arches of Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •
Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •
Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •
Grand Turk Inn – Tel 649 946 2827 • Web www.grandturkinn.com 250–300 5 • • • • • • •
Island House – Tel 649 946 1519/232 5514 • Web www.islandhouse.tc 110–185 8 • • • • • • •
Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •
Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •
Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •
Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •
White Sands Beach Resort – Tel 649 242 1991 • Web whitesandstci.com 130–150 16 • • • • • • • • •
Middle Caicos
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Blue Horizon Resort – Tel 649 946 6141 • Web bhresort.com 265–400 7 • • • • • • • • •
North Caicos
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Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •
Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •
Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •
Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •
Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •
JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •
Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •
Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112/877 774 5486 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •
Pine Cay
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The Meridian Club Turks & Caicos - Tel 649 946 7758/866 746 3229 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • •
Parrot Cay
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Parrot Cay COMO Resort & Spa - Tel 877 754 0726/649 946 7788 • Web www.parrotcay.como.bz 450–4370 65 • • • • • • • • • •
Providenciales
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Airport Inn - Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •
The Alexandra Resort & Spa - Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •
The Atrium Resort - Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.theatriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •
Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.amanresorts.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •
Aquamarine Beach Houses - Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •
Beaches Resort & Spa - Tel 800-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 453 • • • • • • • • •
Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •
Blue Haven Resort & Marina - Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •
Caribbean Paradise Inn - Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.paradise.tc 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •
Club Med Turkoise - Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •
Coral Gardens on Grace Bay - Tel 877 746 7800 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •
Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 877 774 3253/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •
Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5757 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 59 • • • • • • • • • •
Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •
Harbour Club Villas - Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •
Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.kokomobotanicalresort.com 169–299 16 • • • • •
Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.levele.tc 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •
La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •
Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •
Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •
Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5461 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •
The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666 • Web thepalmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •
Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •
Point Grace - Tel 888 682 3705/649 946 5096 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •
Ports of Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.portsofcallresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 81

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where to stay
range of daily rates US$
(subject to change)
number of units
major credit cards
restaurant
bar
air conditioning
phone in unit
television in unit
kitchen in unit
laundry service
pool
on the beach
Providenciales (continued)
Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •
Reef Residence at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •
The Regent Grand – Tel 877 537 3314/649 941 7770 • Web www.TheRegentGrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •
Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •
The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.thesandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •
Seven Stars Resort – Tel 866 570 7777/649 941 7777 – Web www.SevenStarsResort.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •
Sibonné – Tel 800 528 1905/649 946 5547 • Web www.Sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •
The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 946 5900/877 887 5722 • Web www.TheSomerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •
Turtle Cove Inn – Tel 800 887 0477/649 946 4203 • Web www.turtlecoveinn.com 85–180 30 • • • • • • • •
The Tuscany – Tel 649 941 4667 • Web www.thetuscanygracebay.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •
The Venetian Grace Bay – Tel 877 277 4793 • Web www.thevenetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •
Villa del Mar – Tel 877 238 4058/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •
Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitc.com See Web/AE 6 • • • • • • •
Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 941 5300/877 285 8764 • Web www.villarenaissance.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •
The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •
West Bay Club – Tel 866 607 4156/649 946 8550 • Web www.TheWestBayClub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •
Windsong – Tel 649 941 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •
The Yacht Club – Tel 649 946 4656 • Web www.yachtclubtci.com 250–350 52 • • • • • • •
Salt Cay
Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •
Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •
Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •
Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •
Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •
Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •
The Villas of Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villasofsaltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •
South Caicos
East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •
South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219
Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •
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G
Hotel & Tourism Association Member
Green Globe Certified • Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge
Contemporary Style with Bermudian Influences
This centrally located 4 bedroom/3.5 bathroom executive family home and an additional 1 bedroom/1 bathroom nanny suite is
4,545 square feet of open plan Caribbean living with exceptional breezes from its spectacular 75 feet of elevation. Located on .85
acres and surrounded by natural trees and vegetation, views of the Island and Ocean beyond can be enjoyed from every room.
Dee Agingu, Sales Executive
t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.231.3534
dee@tcsothebysrealty.com
Offered at $799,000 turksandcaicosSIR.com MLS# 1300629
Anna Richardson, Sales Associate
t. 649.946.4474 c. 649.232.7751
anna@tcsothebysrealty.com
82 www.timespub.tc

dining out – providenciales
Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet
cuisine for lunch and dinner with menu changing daily.
Anacaona — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Elegant beachfront
dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet Euro/Caribbean
cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge. Reservations required.
Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.
Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,
catering. Open daily 6:30 AM to 6 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.
Asú on the Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual
Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for breakfast,
lunch and dinner. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.
Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.
Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open
for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from
6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Carry-out available.
Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront
dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily
7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.
Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.
All-inclusive resort. A variety of restaurants and bars on premises.
Non-guests can purchase a pass.
Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:
946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Full bar and wine cellar. Indoor or
covered terrace seating above a tropical garden. Open daily for
dinner from 6 PM. Closed Sunday. Private catering available.
Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide
selection of burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like
setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.
Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. The
freshest seafood in Provo, conch prepared to order, rum, buckets
of beer, live local bands. Open daily from Noon to 10 PM.
Cabana Bar & Grille — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880 x 1104.
Casual island fare, pizza, burgers. Open daily from 7 AM to
9 PM. Tropical cocktails with a spectacular view of the sea.
Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Authentic French boulangerie.
Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,
pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.
Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.
Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining
on the deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.
Carambola Grill & Lounge — Airport Inn Plaza. Tel: 946-
8122. Generous portions of local and international fare at
moderate prices in a casual atmosphere. Catering available.
The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.
Cozy restaurant offering island food with flair; something for
everyone. Daily happy hour. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM; Sunday
5 to 9 PM.
Chicken Chicken — Times Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,
fried chicken, native fare.
Chinson Jade Garden Pastries & Deli — Leeward Highway.
Tel: 941-3533. Caribbean pastries, fresh bakery and Jamaican
and Chinese cuisine. Lunch buffet/take-out. Open Monday to
Saturday, 7 AM to 8 PM; Sunday, 2 PM to 8 PM.
Chopsticks — Neptune Court. Tel: 333-4040. Fusion of Asian
cuisines–light, healthy and delicious in a beautiful setting. Takeaway,
delivery, on-site dining. Open daily Noon to 3 PM and
5:30 to 10:30 PM. Closed Sunday.
Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive
resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in the evenings.
Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.
Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental
Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy of palms.
Serving dinner nightly from 6 PM. Closed Monday.
Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.
Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical
garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10
PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended. Catering, special
events, private chef visits.
Crackpot Kitchen — Ports of Call. Tel: 245-0005. Experience
the Island feel, culture and the best of authentic Turks & Caicos
and Caribbean cuisines. Open for dinner 5 to 10 PM daily except
Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.
Crust Bakery & Café — Graceway IGA. Tel: 941-8724.
Breakfast sandwiches, specialty coffees, soups, salads, gourmet
sandwiches and desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 7 AM to
8:30 PM. Covered patio dining or take-out. Catering available.
Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.
Island-fresh seafood from the ocean to your plate. Covered
beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.
Danny Buoy’s Irish Pub — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921.
Traditional Irish cuisine, standard American pub fare; imported
draught beers. Open for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.
Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs for sporting events.
The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining
and cocktails by the water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.
Live music Friday nights.
Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront
dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.
Open daily.
Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833.
Dine overlooking the “greens.” Open to all for lunch Monday
to Thursday and breakfast from 9 AM on Sunday. Friday Pub
Nights, Saturday BBQ.
Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.
Drinks at the Ice Bar, dessert by the fire pits in the Fire Lounge.
South American-meets-Caribbean flavors and spices. Open daily.
Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.
Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and
cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.
Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Authentic native
cuisine, from seafood to soup. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet on
Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.
Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Authentic
Indian cuisine, including tandoori charcoal-oven specialties.
Open daily Noon to 3 PM, 5:30 PM to Midnight. Closed Tuesday.
Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports of Call &
Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,
smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix
candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.
Gilley’s Cafe — At the airport. Tel: 946-4472. Burgers, sandwiches,
local food. Full bar. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.
Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.
Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.
Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under the stars or indoor
dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from 6
PM nightly. Reservations required. Weddings and receptions.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 83

Greenbean — Harbour Town at Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-2233.
Internet café, Starbucks® coffee, salads, wraps, pizza, sandwiches,
fresh bakery. Open daily 6 AM to 4 PM.
The Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Casual
oceanfront poolside bistro, serving international bistro fare.
Cool cocktails at the swim-up bar. Open 7 AM to 9:30 PM daily.
Havana Club — Windsong Resort. Tel: 941-7700. Fine wine,
specialty coffees, decadent desserts, with comedy/magic shows
on Thursday, Friday and Saturday and music and sports nights.
Healthy Treats Restaurant & Deli — Touch of Class Plaza,
Airport Road. Tel: 241-3318. Native Caribbean dishes, fresh
juices, smoothies. Call to order.
Hemingways on the Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:
941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,
pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by the pool.
Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.
Hole in the Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old
Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Authentic Jamaican/Island cuisine
where the locals go for jerk chicken. Full bar. Indoor A/C dining
or outdoors on the deck. Open 7 days from 8 AM. Cash only.
Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-
8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.
Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.
21 flavors of ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards
and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.
The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet
café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and coffee
delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.
Jimmy’s Dive Bar — Ports of Call. Tel: 946-5282. The place for
steaks, BBQ, booze and breakfast. Open daily, 7 AM to 11 PM,
(Thursday to Saturday to Midnight); open Sunday at 8 AM.
Kalooki’s Beach Restaurant & Bar — Blue Hills. Tel:
332-3388. Caribbean-infused dishes in an oasis-like setting
overlooking the sea. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 AM to 10 PM;
Sunday 11 AM to 7 PM. Live music every Friday!
KItchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.
Caribbean cuisine with hints of French and Asian fusion and the
chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.
The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from
Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner
under the stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily 5:30 PM to . . .
Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.
Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.
Terrace, gazebo and inside dining overlooking Chalk Sound.
Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM, Tuesday 8 AM to 3 PM.
Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A
taste of Paris in TCI. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,
tapas, nightly dinner specials. Open daily 7 AM to 10 PM.
Closed Sunday.
Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.
French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.
Lemon 2 Go Coffee — Ventura House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:
941-4487. Gourmet coffeehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies,
croissants, yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to
7 PM, Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.
The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip
lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,
world music and the finest sunset location in Providenciales.
Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Authentic Italian “comfort
food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out ready-made
gourmet meals. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:
941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore
views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine
bar opens at 4 PM.
Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Old favorites in a
new location. Fresh local flavors and seafood, homemade desserts.
Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Set price dinner on weekdays.
Children’s menu. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.
Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet
coffees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’
go salads and sandwiches, fresh smoothies. Open daily.
Melt Ice Cream Parlour — Regent Village. Tel: 432-1234.
Carefully crafted selection of sumptous and inspired sundaes,
with coffee, champagne and cocktails for the grown-ups! Open
Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 10 PM.
Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-
4229. A variety of traditional Mexican fare, including salads and
the best margaritas in town. Open daily.
Mother’s Pizza — Downtown Times Square. Tel: 941-4142.
Best pizza in the Turks & Caicos, available by the slice or the
island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on
Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.
Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Airport Road. Tel: 242-6780.
Serving fresh local seafood straight from the sea. Open daily 10
AM to 11 PM.
Noodle Bar + Kitchen — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550.
Delicious rice and noodle dishes and hearty staples with
uniquely Caribbean flavors and spices. Open for lunch and dinner
daily to 9:30 PM.
Opus — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885. Wine • Bar • Grill
International menu with Caribbean flair. Wine tastings. Serving
dinner nightly 6 to 10:30 PM. Closed Monday. Indoor/outdoor
dining. Conference facility, events, catering.
Parallel23 — The Palms. Tel: 946-8666. Pan-tropical cuisine in
a setting of casual elegance. Boutique wine list. Al fresco or private
dining room available. Open for breakfast and dinner daily.
The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue
Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Authentic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18
flavors of Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.
Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Eric Wood offers
a global palate, interpreted locally. Lobster tank. Seafood raw
bar. Open daily for breakfast and dinner; Sunday Brunch.
Pelican Bay — Royal West Indies Resort. Tel: 941-2365.
Poolside restaurant and bar with French, Caribbean and Asian
fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.
Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-
8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily
11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.
Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.
Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on the beach.
Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays
and Beach BBQ Saturdays.
Sailing Paradise — Blue Hills. Tel: 344-1914. Casual beachfront
restaurant and bar. Caribbean fare. Open daily 7 AM to 11
PM. Sunday brunch and beach party, daily happy hour.
Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.
Casual dining with outdoor seating overlooking the marina.
Sandwiches, burgers and salads, classic bar favorites with local
flair. Open daily from 10 AM to 10 PM.
Sapodilla Café — Provo Storage at Cooper Jack Bay Road. Next
to Hardcore Fitness. Tel: 347-2934. Healthy local fare including
84 www.timespub.tc

sandwiches, savory soups, salads, pasta, natural juices, smoothies.
Weekend specials. Open daily for breakfast and lunch.
Seaside Café — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254. Casual fare,
burgers, salads, tropical drinks, served with panoramic views of
the ocean. Open daily from 8 AM to 10 PM. Kid-friendly.
Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary
cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Wednesday to
Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30 PM.
72West — The Palms Resort. Tel: 946-8666. Beachside dining
with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired menu. Serving lunch
daily; dinner seasonally.
Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:
941-5090. Varied menu. Sports bar/game room with slots. Open
daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.
Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic
coffees and teas, sandwiches, salads and soup, pastries, as well
as gelato, sorbetto, smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM
to 7 PM.
Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:
941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on the beach.
Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.
Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 946-5746. Modern
Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6
to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ. Beach bar and grill
open for lunch 11:30 AM to 5 PM daily.
Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Authentic
Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for
lunch and dinner daily.
Three Brothers Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.
Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet
dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.
Three Queens Bar & Restaurant — Wheeland. Tel: 243-
5343. Oldest bar on Provo, serving Jamaican and Native dishes.
Serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.
Tiki Hut Island Eatery — New location dockside at Turtle
Cove Inn. Tel: 941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood,
Black Angus beef, pasta, pizzas and fresh fish. Wednesday
crab and lobster specials. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Breakfast
on weekends.
Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-
9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,
kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.
Via Veneto — Ports of Call. Tel: 941-2372. Authentic Italian
dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Serving lunch from
11:30 AM to 2 PM; snacks with wine and drinks from 5:30 PM
and dinner from 7:30 PM daily. Closed on Tuesday.
The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. High-end
cuisine and the finest wines in an inviting ambiance. Open daily
for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7:30 AM to 10 PM.
Yoshi’s Japanese Restaurant — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374.
Sushi bar menu plus Wagyu beef, Japanese curries. Open daily
Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.
Zanzi Bar & Tapas Restaurant — Leeward Highway. Tel: 342-
2472. Sophistication meets class at the new tapas eatery and
entertainment venue overlooking Grace Bay.
Local cuisine served daily from 7 AM.
Last Chance Bar & Grill Club — Bottle Creek. Tel: 232-4141.
Waterfront dining. American and Caribbean dishes. Open 10:30
AM for breakfast and lunch; dinner by reservation.
Pappa Grunt’s Seafood Restaurant — Whitby Plaza. Tel/fax:
946-7301. Native & American cuisine daily.
Pelican Beach Hotel — Tel: 946-7112. Well known for native
conch, lobster, grouper and snapper dishes.
Silver Palm Restaurant — Whitby. Tel: 946-7113/244-4186.
Local seafood and international cuisine. Home-baked breads
and desserts. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Screened patio.
Super D Café — At airport. Tel: 946-7258. Local dishes.
dining out – south caicos
Eastern Inn Restaurant — Stamers Street. Tel: 946-3301.
Ocean & Beach Resort — Cockburn Harbour. Tel: 946 3219.
Native cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Pond View Restaurant — Tel: 946-3276. Native cuisine.
dining out – middle caicos
Daniel’s Restaurant — Conch Bar. Tel: 245-2298/232-6132.
Local seafood, homemade breads. Open Tuesday to Sunday. Call
ahead for groups and dinner reservations.
dining out – grand turk
Bird Cage Restaurant — Osprey Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-1453.
Full bar & restaurant. Lunch and dinner daily.
Guanahani — Bohio Resort. Tel: 946-2135. Gourmet menu of
French, Italian and Asian influence with a Caribbean twist. Open
daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The Inn Restaurant & Bar — Grand Turk Inn. Tel: 431-0466.
A taste of Asian fusions. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Closed on Tuesday.
Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville — Grand Turk Cruise Center.
High energy bar and restaurant. Swim-up pool bar and signature
menu of grilled favorites.
Sand Bar Restaurant — Manta House Beach. Tel: 946-1111.
Quinessential beach bar serving local seafood specialties. Open
for lunch and dinner, Sunday to Friday.
Secret Garden — Salt Raker Inn. Tel: 946-2260. Local &
American dishes in a garden courtyard. English breakfast.
Weekly BBQ and sing-alongs.
dining out –salt cay
Coral Reef Bar & Grill — Tel: 232-1009. Breakfast, lunch and
dinner daily on the beach. Full service bar.
Pat’s Place — Island-style garden restaurant in historic district.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Porter’s Island Thyme — Tel: 242-0325. Gourmet island dining
in open air dining room. Full bar. a
dining out – north caicos
Club Titters — Bottle Creek. Tel: 946-7316. Local dishes for
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Live music weekends.
Higgs’ Café — Sandy Point Marina. Tel: 242-9426 or 341-9084.
Times of the Islands Spring 2016 85

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