Textle Outlook-3.pdf - Technopak

t e c h n o p a k
Company Name CONFIDENTIAL
1

textile & apparel
a quarterly report by technopak OCTOBER’ 08 / VOLUME 2
future
textile & apparel
technology
trends

Contents
1. Wearable Technology: Getting Technology at Arm’s Length 02
2. Economic Sustainability: Textiles Get Responsible 06
3. Comfort & Ease: Garments Become an Extension of Human Comfort 08
4. Functional Fabrics: Making Textiles Work for You 10
5. Conclusion 12
6. Glossary 13
textile & apparel
©Technopak Advisors Pvt. Ltd.
Textile & Apparel Outlook is an effort by the Technopak fashion practice to explore
the dynamic changes occurring in the global textle and Apparel industry.
We at Technopak understand the need for continuous and intensive assessment
of India’s textile & apparel industry. With this report we have attempted to provide
insight into the trends and the opportunities that are available for businesses
operating in this domain.

01
Fabricating the Future of Textiles
Textile and apparel is one of the oldest industries in the world and has come a long way since the days when manufacturing
used to primarily occurred in consumption centers of US, Europe and Japan. Trade eventually shifted to newly industrialize
Asian countries with low labor cost and abundant raw material. The next important stage emerged when quota restrictions were
removed on 01 Januaray 2005 changing sourcing patterns as well as buyer-supplier relationships.
Global textile and apparel trade stood at US$ 550 Billion in 2007 and is expected to grow to US$ 805 Billion by 2015 as per
Technopak estimates. Apparel is expected to grow at a faster pace than textiles.
Table 1 Textile and Apparel World Trade
2015 300 505
2010 260 390 US$ 650 Billion
2007 225 325 US$ 550 Billion
0 150
300 450 600 750
Trade in US$ (Billion)
The changes expected in the next 6-8 years will be far more than those witnessed in the last 2 decades. These are consolidation,
collaboration and relocation, redefining of traditional roles, emergence of large conglomerates, shifting of consumption patterns
to countries like China & India, new technologies emerging to enhance the usage and advantages of apparel/textile etc. As the
market matures, retailers are now looking to add value to their apparel/textile offer to consumers to suit their needs and act as an
extension of their lives.
The above changes in trade and consumer requirements have meant that textile technology, once considered a handicraft, has
become a highly sophisticated and scientific activity. The field uses all areas of engineering arena such as mechanical, electrical,
computer, chemical, instrumentation and structural engineering. This report puts together some of the recent technological trends
and developments being witnessed by the global textile and apparel industry. The trends are woven around 4 themes namely:
1. Wearable Textiles: Textiles that are able to sense stimuli from the environment, to react and adapt to them by integration of
functionalities embedded in the textile structure.
2. Environment Sustainability: Textiles and apparel which do not take away from the physical environment in their entire
value chain.
3. Technologies to add Comfort and Ease: Textiles that enhance usage by added properties.
4. Functional Fabrics: Textiles that enhance the performance objectives.
US$ 805 Billion
Apparel
This report is by no means but only an indicator of global trends. It is a compilation of technological breakthroughs from around
the world in the textile sector. We hope it will inspire executives, technologists, researchers, entrepreneurs in India to make best
use of this knowledge.
Examples have been used where ever possible to showcase what is happening globally in these technologies. Additionally, the
innovations and the advancements discussed may be at a different stage of their life cycle than as mentioned in this report.
Textile

1.Wearable Technology:
Getting Technology at Arm’s Length
With the advancement of technology, the interaction of human individuals with electronic devices demands specific user skills,
more so with improved user interfaces. In this context the concept of electronic textiles promises enhanced user-friendliness, user
empowerment, and more efficient services support. Wearable electronics respond to the individual in an invisible way. It serves
the individual’s needs, and thus making day to day activities more comfortable.
It’s a field – variously known as Smart Textiles, Smart fabrics, Smart Clothing, Wearable Electronic, Interactive Wear, Electronic
Textiles, Textile Electronic, Intelligent Textiles - that is realized as a result of the convergence of microelectronics with textiles
surrounding us in our daily life - be it clothing, home textiles or technical textiles. This process requires the development of
enabling key technologies. Various technology demonstrators are proposed which consistently aim for improving the interaction
between human individual and information technology.
1.1
Roles of Interactive Wear
Basically, five functions can exist in an intelligent textile,
namely: sensors, data processing, actuators, storage and
communication. They all have a clear role; although not all
smart textiles will contain all functions. The functions may be
quite apparent, or may be intrinsic.
The extent of intelligence with the above functions can be
divided in four subgroups:
• Passive smart textiles can only sense the environment, they
are sensors;
• Active smart textiles can sense the stimuli from the
environment and react to them, besides the sensor
function, they also have an actuator function; and
• Very smart textiles go a step further, having the gift to
adapt their behavior to the circumstances.
• Intelligent materials, are those which are capable of
responding or activating to perform a function in a manual
or pre-programmed manner
1.2
Components of Interactive Wear
Interactive Wear has the following elements / components in
them to ensure its functionality:
• A packaging and interconnect technology for deep textile
integration of electronics. This would involve Integration of
micro electronics into a circuit board, and Interconnection
and Encapsulation of this circuit board with the smart textile
fabric with conductive wires.
• A power source. This could come from batteries, solar
cells, fuel cells or a transponder. Various innovative
supplies can also be used namely, Electromagnetic
conversion, Piezoelectric conversion or Thermogenerator.
the, human body bay also be used as a source of energy.
• Radio Frequency Identification (RFIDs), Global Positioning
System (GPS), Global System for Mobile (GSM), interwoven
textile antennas for data transfers and communication links.
• A self-organizing network of electronic controllers for
external devices, wall and floor textiles etc
• Sensors in terms of microphones, cameras, temperature,
acceleration.
• Actuators such as earphones, speakers, LEDs, heating
elements
• User interface: LEDs, Textile switches, acoustical feedback
02

03
1.3
Application Areas of Interactive Wear:
Electronic textiles have their applications in a wide array of fields.
On one end of the spectrum there are pragmatic applications
such as military research into interactive camouflage or textiles
with nanorobots that can heal wounded soldiers. On the other
end of the spectrum, there is work being done by artists and
designers in the area of reactive clothes - “second skins”, that
can adapt to the environment and to the wearers and that can
express aspects of their personalities, their needs and their
desires, and represent aggregate social information.
Listed below listed are the various market segments for the
application of Interactive wear, along with recent developments
in each one of them.
Games, Entertainment & Communication:
• MP3 player controls, mainly iPod
• The speech-controlled MP3-player demonstrator system
designed into a sports jacket
• Infineon Technologies, a major semiconductor product
maker, has helped develop an experimental jacket with an
integrated MP3 player. A flexible woven inch-wide ribbon
carries sound to the MP3 player’s headphones.
• A more integrated MP3 version of the jacket is in the works.
Such electronic ribbon may also be used for wireless
communications, for example, to locate a hiker trapped
under snow in an avalanche.
• The ‘Nike’+ line has launched a new ‘Nike’+SportBand
wristwatch which links with a sensor in the ‘Nike’+ footwear,
enabling runners to get real-time performance feedback with
details such as distance, pace, time and calories burned.
This allows the user to properly track their performance and
adujust as per his/her requirements.
Security:
• Interactive camouflage fabric is used by the military but may
also become a wearable electronic network to send and
receive data.
• Much of the smart-fabric, “soldier of the future” research
is centered at the US Army Soldier Systems Center in
Natick, Massachusetts. There, scientists and technologists
are tackling a variety of textiles that can transport power
and information. One example is a soldier sticking his
or her intelligent glove finger into water to see if it is safe
to drink. The soldier could communicate with others by a
fabric keyboard that might be unrolled from the pocket of a
uniform, or simply sewn or woven in as part of the uniform’s
sleeve.
• The Soldier Systems Center has already collaborated with
Foster-Miller Inc., a Waltham, Massachusetts, an engineering
and technology company, to develop a fabric-based version
of a Universal Serial Bus(USB) cable
• This is ongoing research for a future combat dress that
might keep soldiers warm and fight off germs, and eventually
detect and fight chemicals and other dangerous agents.
Safety and Localization:
• Companies are working towards the adaptation where
paper maps would be replaced with electronic systems.
An example of this would be a Know Where Jacket (CeBIT,
2006) which would enable navigation and routing options for
the wearer. This would help enable rescue operations and
ensure safety.
• Various technological advances would make it further
refined. With GPS for outdoor localization, GSM/GPRS
for continuous data transmission, application like Google
Maps and Google Earth would serve as data for outdoor
activities.
Health care & Sports
• Biofeedback–Integrated pedometers, heart rate monitors or
temperature sensors provide physiological information to
the athlete
• Intelligent trainer–System communicates to the athlete by
audio feedback or display information (suggests, motivates,
warns)

• Music pacing–Continuous adaptation of music speed to the
average steps per minute enhances the training effect
• Personal health monitoring–Sensing and pre-processing
of heart beat, breath, temperature, motion, etc. signals for
health care applications
• The College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, in
Raleigh, has been working on a flame-retardant compound
that could be used in children’s clothing or toys, as well as
soldiers’ uniforms or even Formula One car racing suits.
• A team at University of Massachusetts is devising molecules
that act in much the same way as cells in the human body
to combat germs. Such molecules, called polymers and
oligomers, can then be embedded into clothing.
1.4
Major Players in this Field
Performance clothing segment
Monitoring health and vital signs, commercial
products in 2007
Smart Fabrics
Electronics Components Manufacturers
Electronics OEM’s
System Integrators
Research Institutes
• Adidas
• O’Neil
• Nike
Others:
• VivoMetrics (Lifeshirt)
• Adidas, Numetrex
• Philips Design, a diversified Health and Well-being
company, focused on improving people’s lives through
timely innovations, has developed a series of dynamic
garments as part of their ongoing SKIN exploration research
into the area known as ‘emotional sensing’. The garments,
demonstrate the way electronics can be incorporated into
fabrics and garments in order to express the emotions and
personality of the wearer.
• Solar cells in bags and jackets to charge consumer
devices
• In the more distant future it might be possible to change
the color of pants from dark to white if, say you are traveling
from cold to a hot climate.
• Toray Industries Inc (polyester and nylon shape memory fabrics)
• Philips
• Infineon
• Motorola
• CSR
• Philips
• Nokia
• Motorola
• Interactive Wear, Ohmatex, Fibretronix
• Clothing+
• Polar
• NCSU – North Carolina State University College of Textiles
• Wearable computing Lab, Swiss Federal Institute of Technology -ETH Zürich
• Centexbel
• TITV (Textilforschungsinstitut Thüringen-Vogtland)
• ENSAIT – Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles
• SmartWearLab – Tampere University of Technology
• IITD - Indian Institute of Technology Delhi
04

05
Making smart fabrics affordable, workable and user friendly is
still a few years away off. Other challenges faced are weight of
batteries, safety, efficiency and other improvements.
Textiles are present everywhere and at any point of time. The
economic value and impact of textiles is enormous. The advent
of smart textiles makes it possible to bring the traditional textile
sector to a level of high-technological industry. Moreover,
it appears that this is possible only by intense co-operation
between people from various backgrounds and disciplines.
Technology domains such as biotechnology, computer
science, microelectronics, polymer chemistry, material science,
etc. look at textile possibilities from a different perspective and
usage. The development of smart textiles has started at a cruise
speed. A part of the new materials and structures has already
reached the stage of commercialization; a much larger
part however, is still in full development or still has to be
invented. This applies especially for very smart textiles. This
phase is expected to be reached by 2010.
No matter how strongly integrated, the functional components
remain as non-textile elements, thusmaintenance and
durability are still important issues. In the second generation,
the components themselves are transformed into full textile
materials.

2. Economic Sustainability:
Textiles Get Responsible
Environmental sustainability is the ability to maintain the qualities that are valued in the physical environment.
It is clearly emerging that the world’s coastline and watersheds are increasingly affected by economic changes and environmental
degradation, consumers have become edgy about the effect of human activity on the environment. In such a scenario, environment
sustainability has become an industry in itself.
With increasing concerns regarding the effect of the textile industry on the environment, at all stages of its chain, i.e. raw material,
fiber, fabric, apparel, processing; more and more textile researchers, producers and manufacturers are looking to biodegradable
and sustainable fibers as an effective way of reducing the impact textiles have on the environment.
Mentioned below are examples (2.1 to 2.4) of textile companies across the globe using innovative technologies to reduce this
burden. Organic farming and organic cotton are the best examples of this type of sustainability and much has been already
written about the same. The listed examples are an attempt to explore more options within the textile chain and familiarize you
with companies which are doing such changes.
2.1
Synthetics Use Technology to Get
Green
Synthetics have always been considered a difficult chapter
of textiles when related to the environment factor. They are
produced from a depleting resource, i.e. crude oil. However,
the advantages they present to the user ensure that they still
hold an important position in the textile chain. Synthetics are
easy-care, need less washing at a lower temperature thereby
reducing power and water usage in aftercare. They also require
less ironing and have a longer life as they wear better.
At the Premiere Vision 2008 which is one of the most important
textile and apparel Trade shows world wide, Toray launched
its “Ecodream”, which is a 100%-recycled polyester nylon. By
reusing waste from its own nylon fiber production, the company
has created a nylon 6 staple yarn and resulting woven fabric
that is both, of a high quality and environmentally friendly.
This recycled yarn requires considerably less energy to
produce than virgin nylon yarn and emits lesser CO2 by as
much as 80% compared with virgin polyester production.
Additional benefit is the reduction of waste since Toray’s waste
is now its new raw material.
2.2
Creating Products Out of Recycled
Textiles
Polyester is seen as one of the most straightforward fibers to
reprocess and many companies have researched extensively
on recycling this fiber.
In 1993, Pantagonia, the outdoor gear and apparel company
adopted polyester fleece into their product line made from
post consumer recycled plastic soda bottles.
In 2005, in partnership with Teijin, Pantagonia announced a
garment take-back recycling program for its products and later
extended it to include products made by competitors as well.
Teijin has also introduced EcoCircle, a fiber-to-fiber recycling
system where worn-out polyester garments are recycled
into virgin-quality fibers by breaking down the fabric to the
molecular level and creating new polyester raw material.
At the ‘Outdoor Retailer Show’ 2007, Concept III which is a
textile based solutions company that helps brands develop
products has introduced eco-friendly fleeces that are as soft
and luxurious as many of the virgin fleeces currently available
in the market. The polyester yarn comes from recycled plastic
bottles.
Concept III’s range of ‘Cocona’ knits and fleeces, include all of
the inherent performance qualities from a naturally renewable
and unusual natural resource, the coconut.
06

07
Most recently, UK Retailer Marks & Spencer announced that
it has developed a range of school wear made from recycled
plastic bottles, the first retailer to launch this brand new
innovation.
Project Alabama, a clothing label founded in 2000 in the United
States, is themed around sustainability. This year, the label
has launched t-shirts called “Green T”. The 100 percent cotton
t-shirts, each one-of-a-kind, use recycled fabric, water soluble
dyes and hang tags and labels hand printed on recycled
fabric.
Another important term is ‘Upcycling’ which is becoming a
more dynamic approach to recycling. Under this concept the
original products are recreated and value added for product
longevity. The clothing label Project Alabama, sells embellished
recycled materials that are hand-sewn by local artisans. There
are a few labels that have taken this even further and aim to
create a service for its customers where clothes are sent back
to be remade using new components.
2.3
Textiles Revert to their Original State
as Bio-degradable Material
Bio degradable textiles is another important aspect for
maintaining environment sustainability and much research
has been done in this regard by manufacturers worldwide.
Textile companies like Raymond and China Bambro Textile
Company have introduced bamboo fabrics, which besides
having anti-bacterial properties, is a 100% bio degradable
fiber; ever while decomposing, it does not cause any pollution
or harm to the environment.
Three companies - YKK Fastening Products, Toray and
Ichimura Sangyo released an eco-conscious, biodegradable
fiber called APEXA in 2007. The fiber produces eco-friendly
garments, which can be changed back to a harmless natural
state by the action of bacteria, thereby limiting damage to the
environment.
Interface Fabrics, a leading US based carpet and home textile
manufacturer has announced BioBac, a new coating made of
100% bio-degradable materials designed to replace acrylic
and rubber latex backing for upholstery, wall covering and
panel fabrics. BioBac can be removed from fabric through the
application of heat and water thereby no longer hindering the
recycling of the main fabric.
2.4
Final Processing, Green
Processing
Fiber and chemical companies are looking at new finishing
processes that use less, or no water and instead use chemicals
and technology as sources of environmental solutions.
In this regard, easy-care finishes that require less washing and
laundering are being looked into. Finishes like bio-polishing
that use natural enzymes have been developed to modify the
surface of cotton fabrics to prevent permanent pilling and
increase softness.
Latest example includes prominent Italian laundry and garment
finishing company Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili. The company
has been receiving requests from their premium customers for
garment dyes using natural plant-based materials.
Likewise, Freshtex, a German washing, finishing & design
development company has recently obtained certification for
its eco-friendly laundry facility at the plant in Turkey, and will
shortly be extending this to Sri Lanka.
As can be seen from the above examples, companies are
becoming conscious and addressing this sustainability issue
in myriad ways. The gap lies in educating the consumer on
these updated technologies and their positive effect on their
surroundings. Media can play an important role in educating
the consumer in this aspect by running campaigns and
promoting this aspect of textiles.

3. Comfort & Ease:
Garments Become an Extension of
Human Comfort
Consumers are increasingly looking for garments that offer more than style and fashion. They want clothing that look and feel
great whilst providing a sense of well-being for the wearer.
There are many textile companies engaged in technological research for such adding comfort and ease to textiles as well as
apparel. Innovations are being constantly done in fiber, fabric and garment stage to enhance the comfort of user, i.e. garments
that are not a hindrance to movement, allow air to pass through, are easy care, easy iron and give better hand feel, drape and
flexibility, etc.
The following examples (3.1 to 3.4) show such advances made by some companies
3.1
Wellness of user, not an
afterthought anymore
As well - being becomes important to consumers, textile
companies such as Invista, the parent company of Lycra have
introduced fabrics that not only increase comfort to the wearer
but also have properties to release scents for general wellness
of user.
“Lycra spaFX” fabric uses microencapsulation to either
deliver well-being benefits such as aloe vera to the skin, or to
release aromatherapy scents. Similarly, Lycra freshFX fabrics,
designed to offer cooling and breathability effects for garments
such as sleepwear, release aloe vera and scents while another
product offered in this range features fabrics with quick-drying
benefits.
Merino Innovation, an initiative of Australian Wool Innovation
(AWI) offers “moisturizing Merino garments” that contain
moisturizers and other natural products that release during
wear to enhance comfort.
3.2
Easy to Wear, Easy to Care
With pressing time constraints, consumers are increasingly
looking for easy care options for apparel, and companies are
looking at options to create this for consumers.
Under this, one of the latest and most popular product is the
‘One-of-a-Kind Shower Clean Suit” which was launched by
Konaka stores, Japan, in spring/summer 2008 in collaboration
with AWI. This is the world’s first wool based non-iron suit that
can be rinsed under a normal shower stream. The suit can
be washed in the evening and ready to wear the following
morning, with no ironing required.
Dirt, smoke, smog, smells, stains can be washed off without
using detergent within a few minutes of washing under a 40
degree shower. With a hollow fabric structure, the suit allows air
to pass through easily and is a blend of wool and polyester.
Water repellent additives are added to the suits and machine
washable interlinings, while eco-super 3D processing is used
to maintain shape. The final finish uses the natural amino acid
L-cysteine - a type of amino acid contained in hair, nails and
skin, to maintain the Shower Clean Suit’s clean shape.
Another example is of “Easy Iron Merino” introduced by
AWI. uses technology for smoother drying properties so that
the amount of creasing is minimized during washing and
subsequent drying. It is applied to finer gauge knitted products
where ironing tends to be more difficult and time consuming.
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09
3.3
Comfort no longer a luxury, but
a necessity
Comfort is one of the most important aspects for garments
that can affect the wearability of a garment. Comfort is seen
in a new perspective with increasing use of lightweight fabrics
and use of yarns for ease of use.
Invista has introduced XFIT LYCRA® fabric that allows one to
move in 360 degrees. This 360-degrees movement and good
recovery can accommodate different body shapes, postures
and movements. In 2007, this was launched by retailers like
Barney’s and True Religion.
Invista also launched FreeFit Lycra at New York Fashion
Week 2007 that is designed to provide softness, breathability,
comfort and shape retention in shirting as well as women’s
wear garments.
Another note worthy product is ‘The Su Su suit’ launched by
Australian Merino wool in 2007 which is a new summer wool
suit that breathes like a T-shirt. The fabric specially developed
for the Su-Su-Suit provides air permeability – allowing six times
as much air to pass through than a normal dress shirt would.
When combined with its superior breathability, the fabric
enjoys doubled cooling effect equal to around a 4ºC degree
reduction in temperature compared with that of conventional
mid-summer suiting fabrics.
A total of 30,000 units were produced for the summer
2007 launch. The product was well received by Japanese
businessmen who have to wear jacket and tie even in the “Cool
Biz” conforming company offices (with air conditioning set at
28 degrees to conserve energy and reduce CO2 emission
3.4
Fibers to add luxury
Consumers seek not only comfort and ease from apparel, but
also added luxury to stand apart as a fashion statement. There
are a few innovations that have been classified and listed in
this category below
The Optim process developed by The Woolmark Company
maintains many of wool’s natural attributes and adds enhanced
properties. The fiber can be used as a blend component with
cashmere. The luxury Optim development is intended to
provide a completely new fiber: wool that is 3 microns finer
than the original wool. Garments offer excellent drape, handle
and luster. This is already being used to make apparel.
Similarly, Arcana is a new generation ultra-fine woolen
fibre for creating garments with a natural luxurious softness.
Arcana is unique since it provides surface lustre and softness
and can be dyed into full, bright shades. It is now being used
for menswear and women’s wear, in knitwear and woven’s, in
both worsted and woolen (and even short staple). It is specially
recommended for knitwear since it is lightweight with luxurious
next-to-skin softness quality.
As can be seen from above examples, there is immense
technology that is going into creating comfortable apparel
and there are many companies dedicated to this research
and development. Companies need to create awareness
among consumers to increase the demand for such innovative
products since consumer demand can only make such
products a commercial success.

4. Functional Fabrics:
Making Textiles Work for You
The field of functional fabrics has witnessed an influx of new technologies, new products and materials to meet the challenges of
the needs of new industries - such as computer, electronics and telecommunication industries as also to meet the performance
objectives of the sports and healthcare industries.
New regulations, standards and testing methods, as well as instruments, are essential for assessing and defining these needs.
These new regulations present new challenges to the industry. With new fibers/blends rapidly changing the economic situation,
today’s manufacturer needs to be fully aware of the new regulations and the products and processes that will meet them.
Companies that adopt the latest technology will have the edge in providing superior products with the best balance of properties
at the lowest possible price.
High-performance textiles and yarns are manufactured using high technology fibers like para-aramid, meta-aramid, fire resistant
rayon, glass fibre, pre-oxidised acrylic. Functionality can be added to a fabric by applying varied treatments and finishes, by
application of nanotechnology, by blending of ultra fabric / fibre or by usage of microfibers.
The following examples (4.1 to 4.5) are methods / ways by which functionality can be added to textiles
4.1
Textile Finishes
Textile finishes enhance the feel and drape of fabrics. This
involves the addition of sizing, weighting, fulling and softening
agents, which may be either temporary or permanent.
Thermochromic i.e. changing color according to temperature
is a function that can be added to a textile material through
finishes applied to it. Two types of thermochromic systems
that have been used in textiles are: (1) the liquid crystal type
and (2) the molecular rearrangement type. In both cases, the
dyes are entrapped in microcapsules, applied to garment
fabric like a pigment in a resin binder. The most prominent
types of liquid crystals are the so-called cholesteric types,
where adjacent molecules are arranged so that they form
helices. Thermochromism is a result of the selective reflection
of light by the liquid crystal. The other method of inducing
thermochromism is through rearrangement of the molecular
structure of a dye as a result of a change in temperature. The
most common types of dyes that exhibit thermochromism
through molecular rearrangement are the spirolactones.
Another functional example is that developed by a textile
company, Phild, which is a method of spraying or impregnating
fabrics with a solution containing titanium powder which
enhances the wearer’s health.
Similarly, Reflex Holding, a Norway based textile company has
developed a technique which improves the heat transfer of
coloured patterns to fabrics
3XDRY® (by Schoeller Technologies AG, which is a globally
active licensing company for innovative textile technologies)
is another example where finishing technology has been
developed to provide a treatment that retains water resistance
on the face of a fabric which increasing wicking on the back.
The two functions are truly separated within the fabric, which
remains highly breathable.
The use of synthetic fibres and blends in such items as shirts,
hosiery, blouses and underwear has increased the need for
anti-microbial finishes on clothing. The moisture-transport
characteristics of such blends tend to cause a greater degree
of “perspiration wetness that occurs with fabrics of wholly
natural fibers.
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11
4.2
Combining Textile and Non-Textile
Materials
Functionality can also be added in a fabric by the combinations
of Textile & Non-textile Materials. Some examples are listed
below:
• Combination of Stainless Steel Fiber with Cotton & Polyamide
to create a soft & flexible cloth.
• Combination of cotton, copper, polyamide and polyurethane
to create a metallic surface.
• Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) embedded in hand-woven linen,
that are programmable and controllable through sensors.
These can be used in creative arts practice, sportswear &
medical use, as well as in interactive costumes for dance,
theatre and expressive gallery textiles.
• Metals & Papers in combination with silks & polyesters.
• A technology has been created to convert proprietary
materials into miniature reflectors that, when imbedded
into fabric by the millions, reflect oncoming light, (such as
automobile headlights) in a way that illuminates the full
silhouette of a person, bicycle or any other object.
4.3
Nano Metal Coating
Masa is a new nano-metal coating developed by the Suzutora
Corporation, a Japanese firm engaged in textile technologies,
to provide textile fabrics employed in a variety of applications
and with a range of functional advantages. Masa-coated
fabrics can, for instance, reflect rays from the sun, including
UV (Ultra Violet) and infrared rays, making them very useful
as curtain fabrics, They can act as sunscreens, offer visual
protection and are said to be capable of lowering a room’s
temperature 2-3°C more than conventional sunscreen textiles.
This suggests that with high outside temperatures there will be
clear energy savings to be made, with less cooling required
from air conditioning systems. In addition, while the Masacoated
fabrics are transparent from within, they prevent people
outside from looking in.
4.4
Blending of Fabrics / Fibers
Functionality can also be added in a fabric by the combination
of blending various fabrics and fibers. Some examples are
listed below:
• Natural Fibers Blended with Synthetics to Improve Strength,
Crease Resistance & Easy Care
• Polyamide (warp) and paper (weft) woven together and then
hand silkscreen printed. This exquisite fabric, designed in a
customized manner in Japan, is used for high-end interiors.
• Microfiber with metal foil spots combine to give a consistent
metallic finish. This blend can be used for high-end fashion
garments (especially outerwear)
• In another combination, Nuno Corp, a Japanese firm which
creates innovative textiles combining traditional aesthetics
with the latest computer and synthetics technologies,
prepared a blended fabric in which bamboo fibers were
combined with rayon, silk, polyamide and polyurethane.
Bamboo has anti-bacterial and anti-odour properties.
• A Finnish company used peat and wool to create a blend
that has anti-bacterial properties and absorbs radiation.
• Fabrics with charcoal as a component can filter odour
and pollution. In 2001 The Japanese company Nuno Corp
developed a blend fabric made of wool, silk, charcoal,
polyamide and polyurethane. Charcoal was used for its
health-giving properties as it has the ability to absorb
chemical impurities in the air.
4.5
Ultra Microfibers
Using the latest in microtechnology, scientists are building
fabrics where the fiber itself is scrutinized and manipulated in
minute detail. Microfibres were originally intended for space and
military applications, but textile designers today prefer them
for their unique appeal. A microfiber is by definition a material
in which the yarn’s thickness is equal to or less than 1/60th the
thickness of an average human hair. Ultra-microfibers in the
market are even finer – some having thickness of just 1/200th
the thickness of human hair.

Microfiber fabrics are easy to care for, machine-washable and
will not lose their shapes. Fabrics constructed from microbers
can also be made windproof whilst breathable. These two
qualities together imply that the fabrics prevent the smallest
drops of water from entering while allowing the water vapour
from perspiration to pass through. These properties result
in these fabrics maintaining an even body temperature in all
types of weather conditions. It is also possible to have a range
of finishing for the Microfibers – crushed and wrinkled finishes
that are thermochromic, antibacterial, anti-UV (those that can
prevent ultra-violet rays from entering), light sensitive and
deodorant. Microfiber blends are used in both prêt-a-porter
and haute couture fashion, since these fabrics have a unique
appearance and excellent tactile qualities.
Some other key developments in this sector:
Scientists in France have developed a rubber-like material
that can self-heal after being snapped in two, offering hope
for a future where certain products are simply able to mend
themselves.
A Japanese company (Omikenshi, engaged in production,
processing and sale of fibers) has developed a type of viscose
made from crab shells. This fiber is claimed to have antibacterial
properties.
Flexible protection materials are striving to transform traditional
protective clothing. These materials stiffen on impact to
provide protection when necessary, but also allow comfort
and freedom of movement when they are not being called into
action.
Conclusion
Fashion is often at the forefront of technology usage. Often
new materials and technologies are used in textiles and
accessories when they are still too expensive or primitive for
other uses. Technology development is on a fast track and
shows no sign of slowing down in the foreseeable future.
Hence, thefashion fraternity will have a lot of fun over the coming
years. The next decades will see the gradual convergence of
nanotechnology, biotechnology, information technology and
cognitive technologies. Typical results will be materials with
different tensile, thermal and optical properties, integration of
information technology into fabrics, and linkage of our bodies
to the network for medical and communication purposes,
via clothing or skin-wearables. This will be to an extent that
functional components are themselves textile material.
To summarize the key points:
• Wearable technology continues to impress
• Sustainability is vital throughout the industry
• The field of functional fabrics has witnessed an influx of new
technologies, new products and materials.
• Other than style and fashion, Comfort, Ease (of maintenance)
and Well Being are important attributes being desired.
One thing is certain, in years to come, technological advances
done today will change forever the way we dress, the way our
clothes look, what clothes do for us and the way our world
looks today.
Companies are exploring an innovative and modern
interpretation of textiles, inspired by contemporary cultural
awareness and advances in technology - an area that has
become fully integrated into everyday life.
12

Glossary
1. CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology
2. Interactive Wear AG
3. Intelligent Polymer Research Institute,
4. ARC Center for Nanostructured Electromaterials
5. Infineon Technologies AG,
6. “Ambient Intelligence, the Next Paradigm for Consumer Electronics: How Will it Affect Silicon?”,F. Boekhorst, ISSCC
7. SMART TEXTILES FOR WEARABLE MOTION CAPTURE SYSTEMS. AUTEX Research Journal
8. Smart clothing: a new life; International Journal of Clothing
9. Science and Technology
10. www.wgsn.com
11. www.foster-miller.com
12. www.design.philips.com
13. www.toray.com
14. www.patagonia.com
15. www.teijin.co.jp
16. www.conceptiii.com
17. www.marksandspencer.com
18. www.projectalabama.com
19. www.raymondindia.com
20. www.bambrotex.com
21. www.ykkfastening.com
22. www.interfaceinc.com
23. www.merinoinnovation.com
24. www.reflex.se
25. www.nuno.com
26. www.omikenshi.co.jp

Contacts
Prashant Agarwal
Vice President
prashant.agarwal@technopak.com
Ashish Dhir
Associate Vice President
ashish.dhir@technopak.com
Priya Sachdeva
Senior Consultant
priya.sachdeva@technopak.com
Neha Dhawan
Consultant
neha.dhawan@technopak.com
Technopak Advisors Pvt. Ltd.
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www.technopak.com

textile & apparel
Textile & Apparel Practice
Technopak Advisors Pvt. Ltd., 4th Floor, Tower A, Building-8, DLF Cyber City, Phase II,
Gurgaon-122002 (National Capital Region), India
T: +91 124 4541111 F: +91 124 4511198-99
www.technopak.com

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