DAVID BOWIE

THE CITY
CHIBA’S
HIDDEN
TREASURES
History by the airport
BY THOMAS BEECHER
Chiba is something of a tourism anomaly.
The prefecture swarms with travelers
each day, though few actually step out
as they zip between Narita Airport and
Tokyo. But, if you have the time and feel inclined—or
if you’re stuck on a layover and don’t
have the hours to make it to Tokyo—there is a
lot to see in Chiba. And you needn’t stray too
far from the airport.
NARITA
Unlike most major outlying transportation hubs,
there’s a lot to see around Narita beyond its
runways and terminals. A short commute from
the airport, the city of Narita itself packs in all the
usual excitement of modern Japan, while at the
same time offering a glimpse into its past.
Narita has its moment in the sun each year
when millions of people flock to the ancient
Naritasan Shinshō-ji temple over the New Year
period to make their hatsumode (the first shrine
visit of the year). For the rest of the year, visiting
the temple is a serene experience, and you can
stroll comfortably around its vast grounds and the
imposing Naritasan Park that surrounds it.
The Shinshō-ji temple sits at the foot of Narita’s
similarly iconic Omotesando—a wonderful
Edo-period shopping street that brims with
souvenir shops, restaurants, and people. Narita
is known for its unagi (freshwater eel), and there
are numerous restaurants along the street that
specialize in the wiggly delicacy. Among the
favorites are Surugaya and Kawatoyo Honten.
At Kawatoyo Honten, you become privy to the
process as the chefs gut and skewer the eel
in plain sight. But as with many cuisines, the
process is more than justified by its outcome.
The crowd-pleasing unagi bento (¥2,500) alone
is reason enough to visit Narita.
©Kawatoyo
At its heart, Narita is a typical Japanese city:
an intersection between new and old, with the
regular slew of bars, cafés, and shops—plus the
odd love hotel—assorted among a mix of Edoand
Meiji-period architecture. And, like the rest of
Japan, Narita shines when it comes to food. Aside
from unagi, the city is also famed for its gyōza. The
humble Gyoza no Osho Keisei Narita Ekimae is a
short distance from Narita Station and a favorite
with locals. If you’re visiting Japan for the first
time, this is great chance to sample the beloved
dumpling (¥240 for a plate of six), which you can
watch being prepared in their open kitchen.
SAKURA
Two stops from Narita, Sakura has a reputation for
being a town of cherry blossoms. Each year from
March to May, people flock to the area to see the
superlative tree in bloom. But even if you’re not
around during spring, Sakura is still worth a visit.
Ten minutes by foot from Sakura Station, the
ostensibly unassuming Sakura Samurai Street
contains five of the few remaining samurai
houses in Kanto, three of which are open to the
public (admission ¥100-210). Here, you can see
traditional Japanese samurai life, with collections
of well-presented rooms holding quotidian
artifacts from the period, such as cooking
utensils and porcelain latrines.
A further 10-minute stroll leads you to the
hilltop space that holds the ruins of the historic
Sakura Castle—an important stronghold during
the Sengoku and Edo Periods—now an expansive
parkland that’s popular for cherry blossom
watching. The park is also the site of the impressive
National Museum of Japanese History.
Regardless of the season, the park is a perfect
spot to take in some typical Japanese serenity—
a reasonable gift for those in the process of or
approaching a grueling international haul.
ACCESS
Express trains from Tokyo to Narita take around
90 minutes. Trains between the airport and
Narita City take around 10 minutes.
Planning a trip around a layover? You might
also consider the Narita Transit Program, which offers
various guided tours from the airport to Narita
City and surrounding areas, free of charge; tours
last between two-and-a-half and three hours.
Bookings can be made on the spot at either terminal
after arrival at the Transit Tour Desk.
www.narita-transit-program.jp
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