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Part of the<br />

Royal Albert<br />

Memorial<br />

Museum<br />

collection - a<br />

gift from the<br />

Western Times<br />

Company in<br />

1952<br />

Views of Exmouth from the Beacon Walls, Devon by William H. Hallett, 1850<br />

The ladies who lived on the hill<br />

Two noble and extraordinary women, both bitterly betrayed by their<br />

famous but outrageously wayward husbands, came to live quietly in Devon<br />

at the beginning of the nineteenth century, looking for a retreat from the<br />

gossips and scandalmongers of London and Bath.<br />

AS CHANCE WOULD HAVE IT,<br />

Frances Lady Nelson, wife of the<br />

naval hero and Anne Lady Byron,<br />

wife of the poet both came to live<br />

a few doors from each other at<br />

numbers 6 and 19 the Beacon, a<br />

genteel and secluded row of fine,<br />

newly-built properties perched<br />

high above the then seaside fishing<br />

village of Exmouth.<br />

But history had not finished with<br />

either of them, even after the deaths<br />

of their spouses: Nelson from his<br />

wounds at Trafalgar in 1805 and<br />

Byron, the poet, in 1824 from<br />

a fever during the Greek war of<br />

independence.<br />

Lady Nelson suffered tragedy upon<br />

tragedy, losing two husbands: her<br />

first, Dr. Josiah Nisbet to a fever<br />

contracted in the West Indies where<br />

she had first met and married him,<br />

the second to her ‘Hero of the Nile’<br />

husband lost to the embrace of<br />

‘that woman’, the notorious Emma<br />

Hamilton. But these events were<br />

only the beginning of suffering<br />

for a woman who never spoke<br />

ill of her husband and defended<br />

both his name and reputation<br />

throughout her life. Following her<br />

move to Exmouth, Frances lost not<br />

only her son by her first marriage<br />

– Josiah - but no fewer than four of<br />

her grandchildren, all of whom are<br />

buried with her at nearby Littleham,<br />

of which more anon.<br />

Maddening silence<br />

Lady Byron’s tragic lot was to lead to<br />

her fleeing with her infant daughter,<br />

Ada, when she believed, barely a<br />

year after her marriage, that she<br />

was wedded to a madman – a man<br />

whose countless well-documented<br />

sexual encounters with both men<br />

and women (including his half<br />

sister Augusta) would earn him<br />

the title of one who was “mad, bad<br />

and dangerous to know”.<br />

Like her titled neighbour a few steps<br />

along the elegant terrace at the<br />

Beacon, Lady Anne never maligned<br />

her husband: unlike Byron who<br />

slandered and wrote against her<br />

for the rest of his life, whilst she<br />

remained stoically silent - something<br />

that infuriated him.<br />

In fact it was not until after her<br />

death that her friend and confidante,<br />

Harriet Beecher Stowe, the<br />

American author of Uncle Tom’s<br />

Cabin and a lifelong campaigner<br />

against slavery and for the rights of<br />

married women, turned the tables<br />

on the Byron camp and spoke at<br />

length on behalf of her wickedly<br />

maligned friend in her book, Lady<br />

Byron Vindicated:<br />

During all this trial, strange to<br />

say, her belief that the good in Lord<br />

Byron would finally conquer was<br />

unshaken. To a friend who said to<br />

her, "O, how could you love him!" she<br />

answered, briefly, "My dear, there<br />

was the angel in him."<br />

She read every work that Byron<br />

wrote, read it with a deeper knowledge<br />

than any human being but<br />

herself could possess. The ribaldry<br />

and the obscenity and the insults,<br />

with which he strove to make her<br />

ridiculous in the world, fell at her<br />

pitying feet unheeded.<br />

Healing broken hearts<br />

So did those two ladies-in-exile on<br />

the sunny southern slopes of what<br />

was fast becoming one of Devon’s<br />

favourite resorts, confide in each<br />

other, over the garden wall? Did<br />

Fanny and Annabella (Lady Byron’s<br />

familiar name to her friends) share<br />

their innermost thoughts about<br />

their errant husbands?<br />

The answer is almost certainly<br />

‘no’. Although Society was fueled<br />

by gossip – then as now – Fanny<br />

86<br />

Countryside, History, Walks, the Arts, Events & all things Devon at: DEVONSHIRE magazine.co.uk

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