Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
COST 9<br />
I. DRESSING :<br />
ORNANHENTS<br />
9 COShlETICS AND<br />
It is a pitiable truth that Indian dressing style and clothing are<br />
not often regarded as the part of Indian culture. Most of the scholars we of the<br />
opitlion that there is no certain improvement or development in the Indian style<br />
of dressing. The dress of present day like 'dhoti' 'ccidar' and 'pagag' had<br />
been c~stumes of the past 2000 years. So, where there would be the history of<br />
dressing? It is one another reason why scholars did not much regard the history<br />
of Indian dressing that it was and is believed by everyone that stitched clothes<br />
were introduced to Indians at 16' century AD by Muslims, but both the<br />
opinion of the scholars in connection with Indian dressing is wrong. It is true<br />
that we still use clotl~ings like dhoti, cddar etc., which were in use 2000 years<br />
ago; but the similarity of ancient and modern hdi
duence of Yunan, Iran, and central Asia, because the people in this region<br />
had a close relationship with these foreigners. Under these circumstances<br />
cultural exchange is quite cornon.<br />
In most of the atsc our litentturc give ismd ill idcntilying iuld<br />
namitig the clothes. Such names of' clothes are safely remaining in vedic,<br />
Buddhis* and Jaina literature, fables and fairy tales, and in lexicons. 'The<br />
bha~ya-s and vyakara~-s which came through this mighty system of<br />
literature, hfurther described the cloths. From the literature we come to know<br />
where the clothes of good quality were produced and from the lexicons we<br />
come to know about the dresses made up of jute and bark, which were most<br />
commonly used by ascetics and poor. Here we also get information about<br />
leather garments. Kpzdjinn etc., were used by ascetics with the view of<br />
serenity while the other leather garments might have been exported to foreign<br />
countries for the use of leather garments in this hot climate-prevailing country,<br />
is h ost chanceless.<br />
It is hard to say how our ancestors dressed in those days. Till<br />
date we do not know fiom our researches whether they used clothes or not. If'<br />
yes, whether dresses were made of leather or leaves ! It is known fkom the cave<br />
paintings of pre-historic period that man was naked and it was not considered<br />
unculture. In this context, it will be appropriate to mention some of the<br />
traditional seds which support nudity. There are lots of reference regarding<br />
naked sdhu-s in Buddhist and Jaina literature. Probably their nudity is an<br />
attempt to re-live the past tradition of primitive age wherein the awareness of<br />
dressing was absolutely absent. Gradually when the society pew more<br />
civilized, people becanie more inseparable fiom clothes while th&x spiritual<br />
preceptors maintained the age old tradition of non dressing which was quite<br />
common once upon a the. The reference about the dresses made up of leather,<br />
bark and grasses found in vedic and later literature, also indicate the primitive
tradition. The point to be considered is when a society gradually develops, not<br />
everyone folIows it. A certain group of people remain undeveloped and<br />
uncivilized. They are later treated as tribes. However, we can draw the clear<br />
picture of ancient culture by thoroughly studying the believes and habits of<br />
these tribes,<br />
We get the first pre-vedic reference about Indian dressing fi-om<br />
the Indus Valley. Later, we have countIess information in vedic and later<br />
writings. Here, a humble effort has been taken to study the dresses, their types<br />
of materials etc., found in <strong>ARM</strong>.<br />
1. MATERIALS OF G<strong>ARM</strong>ENTS :<br />
Dress indicates the refmed taste of men. For a study of the dress<br />
besides other facts, it is necessary to know which were the materials used in<br />
making clothes. For knowing the names of materials us4 in making cloth in<br />
ancient India, a study of ancient literature is essential. We frnd names of many<br />
kinds of clothes in the vedic, Buddl~ist and Jriina literature, friblcs and lexicons.<br />
AX places not only names of clothes but a detailed description of the materials<br />
are given. There was a tradition that man wore difrlt'erent clothes suitable for<br />
1<br />
different seasons. Fine, soft and cool cotton and silk clothes in the summer<br />
season, thick and heavy silk and woollen clothes in the winter season were<br />
worn by Indians, Similarly dresses differed fiom man to man according to their<br />
d8erent professions.2 Hermits, nuns, hunters and foresters wore clothes made<br />
up of barks and leaves. Kings and economically well-off individuals wore<br />
precious silk and gold-ernbroided clothes. In the same way, the dress of the<br />
people of one class differed from that of the other classes in one respect or the<br />
other.<br />
In the early age man used barks and leaves etc., to cover his<br />
body. With passage of time the kinds of clothes changed and man began to use
clothes made from cotton. wool, silk md fibres of various hits and barks.<br />
From a study of this literary evidence, we can know about the ancient Indirln<br />
style of dressing, and how far Indians were technically advanced in the art of<br />
weaving . Halayudha gives a classification of clothing into four major<br />
divisions as cloth made up of leather, cotton, silk and wool.<br />
i) Cotton: Probably cotton clothes originated in India.<br />
Excavations at the Itldus valley sites have lcd to the discovery of some<br />
appliances such as spindles which were used it1 spinning and weaving. This<br />
shows that the process of spinning and weaving had started in this age. A pink<br />
cotton piece of cloth was found in the excavation at one of the sites of this<br />
3<br />
culture. This is a testimony to the fact that the use of cotton cloth was in<br />
vogue even in the prehistoric period in India. Mackay had also discovered<br />
wound cotton thread at one of the sites of this culture. This also supports the<br />
view that cotton existed in this period. According to Sir John Marshall, the<br />
4<br />
word 'sindhu' is used in the sense of cloth in the Babylonian language. This<br />
leads us to the conclusion that cotton clothes were used in this region in this<br />
period.<br />
Probably we find the earliest literary evidence of the existence<br />
of the cotton cloth in the Srauta Si&ra-s of A~vabyana and ~ j~~~ana.~ In the<br />
list of clothes mentioned in the Ac~rli7iga szitra, cotton cloth is called<br />
khomiya. It was used for making a civara - a garment of a Buddhist monk6<br />
In the Vlnayapipka it is named as k~pprisikam.7 For making cloth, cotton<br />
was first ginned, later it was changed into fine thrd8 The process of making<br />
cloth was the same as is adopted in making with the handloom these days.'<br />
According to Anian, Indian cotton cloth was whiter and brighter than that
made in other countries. Lucien was of the opinion that Indian cloth was lighter<br />
and soltcr than cven Greek cloth.<br />
We do not have many references to cotton elo111es in the Gupla<br />
literature. There can be two hfkrences for the non-mention of cotton clothes,<br />
either cotton clothes were used only by a few people or the use of cotton clothes<br />
were so common that the writers considered it unnecessary to make a mention<br />
of their use.<br />
The Amurakoia mentions three words for cotton clothes<br />
1 I<br />
phala, knrpusa and bdara. Dr. Motichandra feels that the words garjabha<br />
and sphatika in the Ac~rangasutra have been used in the sense of the variety<br />
of cotton clothes. l2 Halapha gives the two words kdrpirpdsa and bddara to<br />
denote a cotton cloth.I3<br />
ii) Wool: Woollen clothes were called as kambala. It is stated<br />
in Divycivadcina that u variety ofthread called tungkela was made fi-om a tree<br />
named Kalpadea in the Uttara Kuru country. With this thread were made<br />
14<br />
woollen clothes of many colours such as blue, yellow, red and whlte.<br />
Beautiful cloth was also made by mixing wool and d~ktila.'~ Ordinary<br />
blankets and those made with the hair of camel were woven for trade as well.<br />
We come across the following varieties of woollen clothes in -4RM - uvika,<br />
16<br />
urabhra, rallaka, ur@p and kam baku.<br />
iii) Silk: It is a controversial matter when silken cloth began to<br />
17<br />
be manufactured in India. According to Dr. Sarkar, the term pGZn&iva<br />
mentioned in the vedic literature means silken cloth. But according to Dr.<br />
18 19<br />
Motichandra and Monier Williams the term means woollen cloth and not
silken cloth. h the absence of any definite evidence it is dacult to determine<br />
the correct meaning of the word p&n&va. Another word mentioned in the<br />
20<br />
vedic literature is tipya. Dr. Sarkw thinks it was a thick silken ~10th.~'<br />
Sayiuja and Katyaydna have irhorprctcd it it1 thc scn:ic o["a limn' (;I;:)UUMLI), '21<br />
piece of cloth dipped in clarified butter', 'a cloth made with a kind of grass<br />
called tlpa', or 'a piece of cloth dipped three times in the clarified butter'.<br />
From this it is quite clear that the commentators were not quite sure about the<br />
meaning of the Dr. Motichandra has not expressed any definite opinion<br />
about the correct meaning of the word. There is a reference to a garment made<br />
with kuia called ~a~dc2taka.~~ According to Sayqa, in this context Kuia<br />
means silk and so according to him candataka was a silken cloth. Thus If we<br />
take tlic t he words piirt&rvu, tapya and can&tuku in the sense of silken<br />
clothes, then it can be said that the vedic people were acquainted with silken<br />
clothes.<br />
It can be said that most probably silk was used in India in the<br />
5*' century BC as Paqini has mentioned thc word kanieY.yrr." Silken clothes<br />
(kauieya) are also mentioned in the ~rim~Z~d~,2~ and in the Buddhist<br />
literature. Besides kauieya, two other words used in the sense of silken clothes<br />
26<br />
werecinumiukuandpatfa. IntheSubhcZparva ofMuhabharara two other<br />
27<br />
kinds of silken clothes namely kotaja andpa@ja are mentioned.<br />
In the literature of the Kusgna and Gupta ages silken clothes of<br />
a number of varieties are mentioned. Haliiyudha interprets amiuka and<br />
kzuuieyu in the sense of a. silken cloth.<br />
a. Amhtka: It is a type of silken cloth widely used by the<br />
people of ancient India. The a,rit.Cuka was made both in India and China.
According lo the corntnentary of Niilthacuraqi, in tlae decoration of en<br />
a&ka gold thread was used to make beautiful designs.z8 In the<br />
B~atkalpasutro Bhcipa it is said to bc a soft and bright silken cloth.29<br />
V.S.Aganua1 also thinkr that it was a silken ~10th.~'<br />
Many varieties of a,~ka are mentioned on the basis of<br />
3 1<br />
different colours. Kglihsa has referred to sitGhSuka, am@kSuka, 32<br />
33 - - 34 35<br />
m&amSldka, nelanihku, and jlarniihiuka. Actually the aniSuka-s<br />
were once produced in white colour. Later they had been coloured with<br />
diflerent types of colours. Gtyayana also refers to, two arizhka-s - ScSkalika<br />
and krirdamika coloured by iokala and k~rdama.~~ Another variety<br />
mentioned was pa@?ni5nka. According to Dr. Motichandra it was white and<br />
plain silk ~ 10th~~ Another variety of a ~ kwas a cinri-ka. Most probably<br />
it was the variety of silk imported from China. According to the<br />
B~hatkalpasiit~a Bhasya it was made from a silk worm named kosak2ira or<br />
cloth made fiorn very smooth Chinese silk.38 According to the commentary of<br />
Niiithaclira~i, very fme silk or Chinese silk was called cindliri~ka.~~ On the<br />
basis of these commentaries it can be said that probably very fine Indian silk<br />
cloth and Chinese silk were called cinLzriziuka.<br />
B2nabhatta refers to amiuka many a times. In his opinion<br />
a-ka is a very thin and white ~10th.~' In another context he refers to an<br />
a-ka made up of fibre of stalkIk4' Bans has also referred to the o ~ k a<br />
decorated with designs of flowers, leaves, birds etc.42 In the works of Praw<br />
the word a&ya occurs in many a place. In Acarariga stZtra there is a<br />
43<br />
reference of ahuka and cincMhka. B~atkalpasufru BhQa also refers
44<br />
to both the varieties of aHzi-uka-s. In ancient India a~Suku was the most<br />
liked dress, next to dukt2la. P&icularly in the 10~ Cen. AD a*ku was a<br />
prominent g'ument. Hal~yudha mentions two types of silk cloth, they are<br />
dhauta kauieya and a*.hka. Dhauta kauieja is bleached silk cloth. It is<br />
also blown as patror?za. 45<br />
b. Kauieya: Kauieya is made from the silky threads produced<br />
by the worn. Silk is a very costly, beautfil and sophis$icnted kess. Since it<br />
is a costly one, ordinary people cannot afFord to use them regularly hut they<br />
used them in some important occasions like festivals etc. According to Dr.<br />
Motichandra the silk made fiom the cocoons of a silk worm, which subsisted<br />
on the leaves of rnulbeny trees was called kouiqx~.~~<br />
Kautilya has given an elaborate note on kauieya. The silk<br />
worrns were cultivated in the trees of ndgav$sn, llikucu, vakula and vafa.<br />
The kauieya was also of four types accordingly. The kauseya made from the<br />
silk wonns of nuguv&a was yellow in colour. The knuieya of likuca tree<br />
was in the colour df wheat, kauieya of vukula tree was in the wlite colour and<br />
that of vafa was in the colour of fresh butter.47 KauSeya was also produced in<br />
The tern1 kauieya has been mentioned in the Modhyamavydyoga,<br />
49<br />
wherein a yellow coloured kauseya was worn by a brdzrna~. In the<br />
50<br />
Amarakoia the term dhautakauieya has been interpreted as 'washed silk'.<br />
~a12yudha calls it pa~orw.51<br />
iv) Leather: Most probably skin of deer, goat and cow was<br />
used to make leather garments. The skin of a deer is considered to be a<br />
52<br />
garment of ascetics in the Kirdtarjuniya, ~mdrasam bhava, 53 and
54<br />
Kudam bar i . The deer skin was used at .the time of sacred sacraments such<br />
as the vidycl..ranzbha etc. The slcin oftiger and deer were used on seats to cover<br />
55<br />
the bare ground. Skm of elephant was also used. Lord Siva is often descried<br />
56<br />
as Kmvasas. Dr. Motichandra mentions the use of the skin of a sea otter as<br />
57<br />
it was very thin and h e. -4part from this, the skins of animals like camel,<br />
leopard, were also used5' HaJayridha has not mentioned that the leather of<br />
which animals were used for preparing dresses during his days.<br />
v) Garment of Bark: The garments of tree barks are usually<br />
known as valkala-s. Monks, ascetics and foresters were expected to wear<br />
valkala garment. It was worn by women while practising penance or visiting<br />
We have also a reference to a bedding rnade of tree barks.60 It is<br />
6 1<br />
stated in the Vumana para% that vatkala-s can be cleaned with water.<br />
HaQyudha also calls it valka. 62<br />
vi) Cloth made with some other materials:<br />
a. Saw: Probably cloth made with hernp is called Sam. In<br />
Divyhvaduna there is a nmtion of a cloth measuring 36 feet long and about<br />
64<br />
24 feet 3 inches wide made of Sarees were also woven with hernp.<br />
Probably poor fmers put on dhoti-s made of According to Yuan<br />
66<br />
Chwang monks used to wear deep red garments made of hemp.<br />
b. I'halcrka: It is probably a cloth made fi-om fibres of some<br />
hit. Dr. ~otichandra~~ opines that it was most probably rnade with thin chips<br />
of a particular kind of timber. It can also mean clothes made with the fibres of<br />
some fruit.
c. Mufija: Monks, sages rutd ascetics used to put on girdles and<br />
68<br />
garments made of muija. MaEja is a kind of long seed used for making<br />
ropes.<br />
d. Uurbha: It was a kind of grass which was considered,<br />
according to Monier Williams, sacred and is also called ~ufa.~' It was used by<br />
70<br />
7 1<br />
monks and ascetics as a gamlent. E3h;ls.a calls these garments kiriucira.<br />
vii) Otllcr miscellaneous gmmcilts: Here are listed somc of the<br />
clothes for it is doubthl to concludc with which material they were made of:<br />
a. Patroma: It is called paplnnu in the Jaina literature and is<br />
mentioned in thc list of costly varieties of clothes.7z According to Dr. J.C. Jain<br />
it was made with the fibres of the bark of a In some dictionaries<br />
pulrorrux is considered a cotton textile, but Dr. Motichandra has expressed<br />
doubts about the interpretation of the word.I4 According to him patrorF<br />
variety were named after the regions where they were made (like Maghada,<br />
Paun&, Sauvarqakla@~ka then, lakt~ci, biikgli etc.,). In the A~nurakoia it<br />
is called washed silk.75 It is possible that it may have been a wild variety of<br />
silk. According to Ksirasv2mi, the commentator of Amarakoia, this variety of<br />
silk was produced by those worms which subsisted on the leaves of va@ and<br />
lahca The meaning of the word urqa is wool. In the Rgveda sheep is<br />
77<br />
called urpzvari. On the basis of this evidence Dr. Gayatri Varma thinks that<br />
patrorw might have been woollen ~10th.~~ In the M&lavikljgnimitrca we have<br />
a reference to kauieya-patrorw (Act V). Dr. Gayatri thinks that the phrase<br />
Kauieya-patror- may mean a beautal and a smooth variety of cloth made<br />
of mixed yarn of silk and wool of putrorv. According to Monier Williams
156<br />
79<br />
pulrorruz was a variety of silk. In the opinion of IIalayudha it is bleached<br />
silk8'<br />
b. Dnkula: IlzrktZlu is a tvoven silk garment. In olden times the<br />
royal flags were nude in dukuiu and omiuku. ,fdankucajya ihe commentator<br />
ofA~uru%a opined tliat dukulu is a peculiar clotii madc up of Lhc: special<br />
8 1<br />
variety of cotton threads produced in Bengal. The iViSithactim?;r?k~r has<br />
told that dukrlla is made up of the threads produced fro111 the barks of a tree<br />
called dl,dkrlia.82 We get q 1 e information about dukda in Arthaiiist~a,<br />
Kautilya says that dukiila made in Bengal were white and soft that of Paup&a<br />
deia were of deep blue colour and shining, and the same of Sauvcrrwkud)a<br />
were red in co~our.~~ He has also told that duklila were weaved in three styles<br />
and they were named after their weaving as ek&?f&ka, aghj~ardhcirizSuka,<br />
dvyaliliuka and tryalithlka."<br />
In the Jaina literature dukBla is called dugrilu and it is<br />
mentioned with other costly varieties of clothes.85 In the Acdn&?tga sritra it is<br />
86<br />
stated that the cotton growing in the Arigu country were called as dukala.<br />
According to Divycivaduna a fine variety of cloth is made by mixing wool with<br />
the fibres of d~ktila.~~ A variety of cloth dukrila mentioned in the<br />
89<br />
,LalitavistarasG was a white cloth made with tlle fibres of dukrila. According<br />
to Dr. Motichandra, tlie explanaltion of tlie word dukulu given in the<br />
commentary of NiSZtha ctka~i is correct, which says that for making dukula<br />
cloth, the bark of the duktila tree is soaked in water and pounded in a mortar to<br />
separate its fibre. Later these fibres are spun.g0 In the AmarukoSa, dukala is<br />
given as a synonym of ksauma (linen). B2na has used both the words dzlkda
and dugtila. According to Dr. Aganval both these words were synonyms. 91<br />
According to Bana, dukfila was made in the country of Puv& (Bengal).<br />
Baqia mentions many dresses made of duktLla such as rn upper garment,<br />
sarees, bed sheets, pillow covers et~.'~ Dr. Aganval comes out with a<br />
farfetched derivation ofthe word dukda. Probably cloth was called as kula in<br />
the local dialect, or in the primitive language fion~ which is derived the word<br />
Kolika (weaver). Probably the cloth was brought for sale in two layers so it<br />
was called dvikda or dz~ktila.'~<br />
In the Gupta ,4ge weaving dukiila with the design of<br />
hamsamirhzrna, in the border was a fashion. Bana says in Kdumbari- that the<br />
dukda of ~udraka was white like the foam of nectar and its border was<br />
94<br />
decorated with the harnsa-mifhuna marked by gorocani. Harsavardhma<br />
too wore a pair of duk2la with the design of h~7msi~mithuncr when he was<br />
going to the battle field.95 It is said in Acicrdllgo that the prir of hmsa<br />
dukrila given to Mahavira by ~3kra was so thin that it could be blown away<br />
even by a gentle breeze. Any weaver skilled in his profession will appreciate<br />
its quality. The dukula was weaved along with the threads of Kaldvaifu and it<br />
is decorated with the design of swan.96 According to the Antoga& daslio,<br />
97<br />
costly dresses were given as dowry along with a pair of dukula.<br />
Kfili&sa also refers to the homsa d~krila.'~ But he did not<br />
mne~ltion that tither it was single or pair. In Bhafti KUI~CT the word duktZla<br />
occurs two times. But the references did not show any light to know if it was<br />
single or double." In Gitagovindo there are some refet-enes about dirklao for
more than lb'our times. There is also a reference of the dual form of usage as<br />
ciukdu. loo<br />
From thi: abovc rcl'ircnccs LVC can co~lfinll !hat dtik;lilu was also<br />
i~sed as a pair - one piece to wear and the another piocc to cover Ihc upper<br />
portion of the body. Some other dresses were also designed out of duktiln.<br />
Bana refers to utmriya, sarees, pcrlarigu posa dc., made up of duktila. 101<br />
In the above discussion we have tried to make out the meaning<br />
of the word dukula. Keeping in view the great popularity of it, we may<br />
conclude that the material with which the cloth made was easily available in<br />
the various forests of India. Illis fine and rxttractive cloth must have been very<br />
pleasant in the summer season. 102<br />
There is one more thing to be cl&ed about the word dukula<br />
that is the later authors and the lexicographers have treated k.pzdn2a and dukGtn<br />
103<br />
as synonyms. Amara has sa.id k.yurncim duki2lorn synt. Hal~yldhn, also<br />
104<br />
says u'ukularn kqumamiycxte. But actually both were not the same.<br />
Kautilya has treated both dukula and k~aurna separately. Rana compares the<br />
whiteness of k+aurna with knrasdgaralo5 and the softness of nrnhka with<br />
duktila.lo6 Hence it becomes clear that technically there were some minor<br />
differences between dukula and kpuma. Dukula and kquma both were made<br />
up of the same material. The only difference between them is - the thicker one<br />
was k~auma and the thinner one was dukulu. Galapathy Sastry has clearly<br />
mentioned that the thick dukrila was called as ksaurna. lo7<br />
Hemacaidra has strived hard enough to solve tlie problem. He<br />
says utasi - linseed is called as k+xmcS. Halayudha also says : afasb s yd uma
108<br />
k~umd. The cloth made of k.pmc?. is ksauma. In the same way the cloth<br />
made from the fibres of k+md is dtcklilc~."~ Sgdhu Sundara Gani has also<br />
110<br />
mentioned that the cloth made up of atasi is krlown as dukula. The grass<br />
namcly kpmd or rrtasE was cultivated in tf~c piu4 of I'aslcm India. DuE:~ikr<br />
and ksauma must be the products ofthe fibres or threads of these grasses.<br />
Somadeva has referred to dukeZla many a times in his<br />
Yaiastilaka b~lt he did not use the word ksauma even a single time. Probably<br />
even before the time of Somadeva both the words dukela and ksuuma must<br />
have become synonyms. Hence Somadeva has used the word dakela alone.<br />
But it is very clear from him that dukda was very much in use up to his time<br />
(I 0' 43) and it was treated as a majestic and costly dress.<br />
c. Ksaurna: It is also called as khomiyo."' According to Dr.<br />
Motichandra it was made with the fibres of the bark of linseed. "3 According<br />
to Dr. J.C.Jain it is a cotton textile.'l4 It was used for preparing civara, a<br />
garment for Buddhist monk.'15 According to the explanation given in the<br />
Niiitha csruni it was made either of the cotton or with the fibres of tree bark<br />
116<br />
of a banyan tree.<br />
<strong>2.</strong> TYPES OF DRESSES:<br />
i) Nudity: Halayudha refers to the Buddhist mendicants as<br />
nagntifa and digvdsas. Regarding the origin of clothing and its development,<br />
we have no evidence of dress in the sketch of krfa yugu. Like houses and<br />
dwellings, dresses too had its origin in the Pefu age. This was an age of<br />
luxuriant vegetation and the trees offered man his requirements of clothes and<br />
111
ornaments. ' l7 When we come to the chapters on Srddhu we fmd clothes as a<br />
primary necessity of men. It is stated that without clothes there can be no<br />
activity, no sacrrfrce, no knowledge of Veda-s, nay penance; so should clothes<br />
be givcn to hrcihmay on thc time of irrrddtzu as a highly comcn&ble<br />
118<br />
act.<br />
ii) Anmya: The B$af KaEpa SGfra refers that it covered the<br />
waist and the upper half of the thighs. It was worn while changing garments.<br />
(It can be compared to our modem tinles towel). Though Hal3yudh.a has<br />
counted both antorip and nwasnnn as they are ddlierent. I-<br />
Tsing, the Chinese traveller has given at some Imgth the description of tlle<br />
layrncn as wcll LL~ of the clergy. Dcscribiilg costu~nc of the clergy of thc<br />
Mt%lasarvG,~itiv&in school of Buddhism, I-Tsing observes that their costume<br />
was made up of sornc ar-ticles like antcrnuisa and nivnsunu ctc. Here, I-Tsing<br />
opines that antarvGsa is an inner garment, whereas nivasana is a lower<br />
120<br />
garment.<br />
iii) Nivasana: I-Tsing int-'oms that the Buddhist of Gupta age<br />
wore the lower gamed or nivt~sana in four different ways. Halgyudha<br />
mentions the words like upsakv)%nu, paridh&na and antartya as synonyms<br />
of nivasana. 122<br />
iv) Upsasfivysna: It is a kind of lower garment. Somadeva<br />
refers to upasarizvydna twice ill Yafastiluka. In a pczrtictilar context, a guru<br />
lalls his ii.9" to tie tl~e god with his r~pusuri7~y&rzino.1z3 Hcre the Sanskrit<br />
commentator says that upsa?hvy&a means uitariyo In another place<br />
125<br />
the Rajumutu is described to be wearing the upasn?izvyuna. Here the<br />
121
wrntnentator gives 'the tlpsa~vdna is<br />
as synonpous to paabdhha, antartya and njvasana. 126<br />
v) Pddhana: It is one another lower garment. Halaymdlra has<br />
liatcd thia word with ~~~orhv~&o.''~ Amiuauimha ha also (Tcatcd both<br />
128<br />
upasa?hvycZna and paridhdna as adhovastra. Mewandra says tbat both<br />
129<br />
are lower garments. The Sanskrit commentator of Yaiastilaka has given the<br />
meaning of adhovastra in one place and uttariya in mother place for the same<br />
word Amara says upsarhy&a is lower and sa?fwyana is upper garment.<br />
Probably the commentator should have been confused by these two terms.<br />
: Dr. J.C. Jain i&om that Jaina mints are<br />
allowed to use three pieces of cloth as upper ent. They are pracchikiana,<br />
rqbhara pu, and mukhovastrikd."*<br />
vii) Mvarqa: It is mentioned in the Arthaiatra in the sense<br />
131<br />
of a curtain. In the ~ oh~iva~~a,'~~ it is mentioned that the bhikkus used<br />
uttar&o@a or mantle. In the ~hikkunipatimokkha'~~ it is described that the<br />
uttarusariga is worn in different styles such as hastiiau @ka - elephant trunk<br />
in which the pleated end was made to fall down in the same way as the pleated<br />
end of the wee of the women of Cola country; in the mafsyavdlaka style the<br />
long and short borders were pleated in the shape of fish-tail; in the<br />
catzi&arquku style four ends ofthe garment were shown. This is only possible<br />
either in the case of uttarksariga or kaiicuka cut at sides.<br />
viii) Watiya: Habyudha has included uttariya in the group of<br />
upper garment. The shawl used to cover the upper portion of the body is said<br />
to be an uftar@a. Arnara has included the word into the group of dresses &ed
134<br />
to cover. Bu&& mrsnks and nuns mainly wore these gments - satigh&i,<br />
ontorvlisoko, md uttarrisafiga (ment~e).~~~ In the works of Midasa we have<br />
m e<br />
reference to ladies wearing an uttariya. But ladies wearing an<br />
zltprij,a is generally not in vogue.<br />
ix) Arcilhowka: In the Mathwa museum an idol of Vigu<br />
belonging to the Gupta period figures with a petticoat which can be identified<br />
wiah ardhoruka. This lower garment is transparent and is slicking to the body.<br />
In some garments of this kind circular designs are shown. This lower garment<br />
has tied round the waist with the help of a silk doth cded pa&u. It seems that<br />
is was stitched as a modem lower garment is sewn these days. The only<br />
difference in a modem lower and ardhoh was that the present<br />
day's lower garment has a stitched hollow strip ia the upper part wherein a cord<br />
is passed for tying round the waist. Wle the crrdharuka was kept in position<br />
round the waisr with the help of a In the Bfiatkolpasrina<br />
~h@ya,'~* the description of ardhoruka and its mode of wearing are given. It<br />
covered the avagraha and the pa,@ therefore the whole waist. It was shaped<br />
like the wrestler's &orts (jiirtghiy4 malla calandkflh) except that its broad<br />
end was firmly tied between the two thighs (iimdvaye ca kaiuvabaddhah). It<br />
resembled like the madern lap@. It was mainly used by Jaina nuns.<br />
In the Har~carita the word CanpZtaka occurs and Cowell has<br />
translated it as a petticoat139 Amarakoia says that the women's petticoat<br />
reaching to half the length of the thigh was known as co&tcrk~.~~*<br />
Halayudha also says that ardhoruka is the dress of women folk also known as<br />
cag&taka. 14'<br />
136
x) Kaficuka: It is a type. of mat va has used the word<br />
entator sf YaSasalaka says that<br />
Kafimka means ko2rprisaka. But kt;ip&aka is different fi-om kaficuku. The<br />
lMah1zvuggu mou s should not use the kaf cuka befitting the<br />
laymen.142 The Bhikhnipotimokkho says that the kaiicuka-s were wan in<br />
different styles like hasti h u ~ k a in the Sornoyornritlk4 emenha<br />
observes a typically miser shop-keeper wearing a torn, woollen cckiar over his<br />
long and thick k~iicuku.'~~ in the ~mara'~' the meaning of a kaficuka is an<br />
armour. On the basis of its description in various literary works, Dr. Agarwal<br />
thinks it was a long coat which came down to the feet, had full sleeves and its<br />
collar was closed in fk~nt.'~~ According to Dr. Motichandra the kaRcuku of the<br />
waniors was like a modem kurrri - loose upper Dr. Indu Rabha<br />
Pandey opines that the kaiicuka was worn by bth men and women. The<br />
kaAcuka worn by women mostly came down to their feet while that worn by<br />
men came down to a little above the knees. This type of kaAcuku can be seen<br />
on the ordinary coins of Samudra Gupta. On these coins Samudra Gupta is<br />
shown wearing half-sleeved kalicuka. 148<br />
xi) V8rab2na: HalQudha says that both kaficuka and<br />
vrirablina are synonyms.149 Amamirnha also treats the two words as<br />
samrin~rfhu?~u-s.~~~ Dr. Aganual thinks that it was a garment of the same kind<br />
as kalicuka but somewhat shorter in length and came down to the knees. A<br />
statue made up of marble stone, belong to the 4' cent. AD is found out near<br />
Kabul. The statue is wearing a long coat which more or less resembles the<br />
~drobri~.'~~ There is also a toy of Ahicchatra found out wearing s similar<br />
coat.lS2 But Dr. Agarwal has not clearly stated the difference benveen a
vcZrabdw and a kaficuka. The kdcuka was of many types. Some came<br />
down to the thigh, others to the knees still others to the calves, still others to<br />
the heels. Therefore it does not seem proper to distinguish between the<br />
kaficuka and ~e vdrubup~ on the basis of its length. Dr. Motichandra states<br />
that a varabaw was made Erom a variety of 40th called stavaraka, which<br />
were stitched with bunches of pearls.lS3 According to him stnvurnka is a word<br />
of Pahlavi language which means a wstly On the basis of the<br />
mention of stavaraka Dr. Motichandra was ofthe opinion that it was not an<br />
amour made of iron. It was a coat stuffed with cotton which was most<br />
probably worn to protect the body fiom the attack of sword. In this connection<br />
we may also mention the views of Dr. Agarwal. He that the over coat in<br />
the dress of the Sun and his attendant Dq& and Pirigala in the Miithura style<br />
of sculpture is vkubaya. On the basis of the decoration on the coat of the<br />
Sun, he was of opinion that it was viirubdv made fkom a variety of cloth<br />
called stavaraka.<br />
A h a mideration of the views of Dr. Motichandra and Dr.<br />
Agarwal it seems proper to come to a conclusion that varubu~ was a<br />
kcriicuka made fiom a variety of cloth called stavaraka. Probably this kind of<br />
cloth was used for garments worn in a battle field. For the sake of convenience<br />
in fighting and to keep the body agile, probably viirab5q.u was comparatively<br />
a close fitting gment. It might have been either closed or open in front, and<br />
sometimes with full sleeves and the other times with half sleeves.<br />
The reference to v&abdw is very less in Sanskrit literature.<br />
Kaufilya has included vdrabdy with woollen dresses.154 IGli&sa describes<br />
that the soldiers of Raghu were wearing the v~rab liw-s. 155 Malliniltha gives<br />
the meaning of vlirnb5~ as koiic~ka.'~~ Baqa has mentioned that some of
165<br />
the kings in the army were wearing ~rirabri~-s.'~~ The body guard of<br />
Dadhici was also wearing a white vdrablina. '58 Bgqa has also refmed about<br />
varubup in Kaumbari. When Candrapi& started for hunting he wore a<br />
159<br />
varubay. ARer returning &om hunting, he seated on the seat brought by<br />
his servants, removed his varabaw. 160<br />
From the above reference, it can be known that the v&ubdy<br />
was not only used as an amour, but also as an ordinary wear. According to<br />
Kau~ilya vurabc<strong>2.</strong>w was made in wool also. It is very difficult to find out<br />
when the dress would have been known or introduced to India. But fiom the<br />
reference available, one thing is certain that vdrabdw was in use in the royal<br />
houses and just like kaiicuka, vrirabap was also worn by both men and<br />
women. It can be assumed &om the meagre reference of vdrabupa in Sanskrit<br />
literature that it was used by royal personalities alone. It is possible that, as it<br />
was too expensive, it was not in use among ordinary people.<br />
xii) Nivi: The one among the three garment. worn generally<br />
during vedic age is nivi. It is a loin cloth or a piece of cloth tied round the<br />
waist like a dhoti. Both men and women wore this garment. Dr. Motichandra<br />
also opines that ntvE is a kind of under garment used by vedic Indim. He also<br />
opines further that nivi and paridhdna probably consisted of simple apron<br />
worn by the men and women alike. The nEvi has been explained by Sucar as<br />
wider border of the cloth. He also gives the origin of the word nivi &om the<br />
Tamil word 'ney' to weave.l6l But Halayudha says that nivi means the knot<br />
which fastens the lower garment round the loins. 162<br />
xiii) Niwlaka: Sometimes it was called as Cinnacolaka. On the<br />
basis of its literal meaning of the word Dr. ~~arwal'~~ has connected this
garment with China. It was worn over all other garments such as a tunic. It<br />
has been identified with the garment carved on an image of Kani~ka, in the<br />
Mathura which belongs to the Kyn~a period According to Dr.<br />
Aganval this gannent was worn in the Kusaqa period and it continued to be<br />
worn even in the Gupta period. According to Dr. Motichdra it must have<br />
been a fblI sleeve coat stuffed with cotton which is worn even up to the present<br />
day in the Central Asia. It should have been worn over other garments like a<br />
tunic. Indian soldiers have worn this garment in the 7" Cent. AD. Halayudha<br />
has given the meaning of nicoiaka as a jacket.165 Amara gives the meaning of<br />
166<br />
nicola as a pracchadapap i.e. coverlet. JQirasv8rni has also explained it<br />
clearly that nicolo is that spread on the bed etc. 167 $abdararn&ara also gives<br />
the five words nicoli, rzicuiaka, nicoiu, nicoli and nicula in the sense of a<br />
168<br />
coverlet. There is a reference of nicula in the beautiful description in<br />
Yaiastilaka. The black-clouds were spread over the earth as if a black cloth<br />
169<br />
was spread on the earth. So it can bc unde&ood that nicolaka means bod1<br />
the jacket and bed-spread.<br />
xiv) Kurpasaka: Both men ad women wore this garment. The<br />
1 70<br />
Kurpdsaka worn by males were like half sleeved coats stuffed with cotton.<br />
Dr. Agarwal has pointed out two special features of this gannent. It came<br />
down only upto the waist and was generally without hll sleeves. No doubt it<br />
must have been called as kzirpusaka because the sleeves came only upto the<br />
elbows. It is considered to be a garment which was originally worn in Central<br />
Asia. This was brought to India by Uzgar Turks and Hunas who had settled in<br />
Chinese, Turkistan before they came to 1ndia.17' HalQ~dha treats both<br />
172<br />
kurpusaka and nicolaka as synonyms.
xv) Avika: It is a woollen garment. It is men~oned in the<br />
SabhZparva that Yu+@a was presented with woollen cloth-avika,<br />
manufactured fiom the soft wool of the sheep.'73 The earliest reference to<br />
uvika is found in the vedic literature. The wool was obtained from the sheep<br />
(avi) for spinning and weaving. So it is called as ri~ika.'~~ The ArthaS'sfro<br />
of Kautilya refers that the woollen fabrics (avika) were usually made of<br />
sheep's wool and were either plain white, deep red, or light red. 175 Halsyudha<br />
simply mentions that it is a type of woollen garment. 176<br />
xvi) Rallaka. In Kavy~~mimcZmsa, it is described -that the<br />
women of LampGZka wore their hair fiee and their dresses were made of thick<br />
woollen cloth (rollakam u ~ l a ~ ~ ~ ~ Ra11ak.a y a n means ~ ~ ) a . kind ~ ~ of ~ wild<br />
goat. The blanket made up of its wool is also known as rallaka. Somadeva,<br />
while describing the jungle refm to the rallaka goats being disturbed by a<br />
Amara says that rallaka is a type of kmbala (woollen cloth).179<br />
During the time of Yuan Chwang, the Chinese traveller, the rallaka was very<br />
common among the people. He has mentioned about 'Hulul;I1Z ' or 'Rallaka' in<br />
lris work as follows - the rullaka is made om the wool of some wild animal<br />
and this dress was quite expensive.180 Somadeva has clearly mentioned in<br />
another place that the woollen blanket was made h m the wool of rallaka<br />
goats and were used in the cold season.181 HalGyudha treats rivika, aurcrbhra,<br />
rallaka, u rw. and kum bala all synonyms, meaning a woollen blanket. 182<br />
. wii) Kambala: It is mentioned in the Athorva ~eda.'*~ It<br />
formed part of the ordinary domestic outfit of men and women. Hahyudha has<br />
1 84<br />
counted it under the category of woollen garment.
It is the basic tendency of human beings in all ages and climes<br />
to arrange their hair in one way or the other. The practice of hair dressing was<br />
in vogue from very early times as is evident from the antiques unearthed from<br />
the Harappa and Mohenjadaro. These antiques reveal that men had varied<br />
style of hair dressing Their hair was taken back &om the fore head and was<br />
either cut short behind or coiled in a knot or a chignon at the back with a fillet<br />
to support it. 186<br />
In the vedic period men wore their hair long or short according<br />
to the fashion or pleasure. In the Pgveda reference has been made to Vasigha<br />
having long hair, braided and coiled on the right lg7 Further, Gods Rudra and<br />
Pusqa have been described as arranging their hair in the fonn of a conch-<br />
shell.lH8 In the time of Rgvedo women dressed their hair in braids, so did<br />
men. 18' The Gjtyastitra-s, however, contain two sothskoro-s (the<br />
cu&arman and the goduna) which give numerous prescriptions regarding<br />
the arrangement of the hair. 190<br />
The ArthaSGstra of Kaufilya goes a long way in supplementing<br />
the history of hair-dressing by men. Kautilya says that a man with shaven head<br />
or braided hair desirous of earning is a spy under disguise of an ascetic.1g1 He<br />
has mentioned the term Kapalaka which probably corresponds to the barber<br />
class.192 This m8y indicate that 'to have hair mts' was considered as an item of<br />
personal decoration. Manu and Y2jfiavakya says that snataka-s are allowed
to keep long and beautihl hair, while elaborate fashion of hair-dressing was<br />
known among laymen. 193<br />
Pataiijali, the author ofhluhiibhd~ya has given some details of<br />
the ways in which the people dressed their hair during his time. It was arranged<br />
with a parting line in the middle and the mass of hair was gatfiered logether at<br />
the back and plaited into one or two long rolls hanging down as low as the<br />
waist or twisted and tied into a large knot at the back.Ig4 In the Raghuvaliria,<br />
Kali&sa has alluded to the hair dressing by the term Sikh& which was probably<br />
locks of hair coiled on the apex of the head. lg5 Kdi&sa probably refers to the<br />
top-knot fashion by his time. He has also mentioned the tenns sihan&vo196<br />
and k&~~ak~a'~~ probably corresponds to the hair in locks resembling the<br />
wings of a raven. This type of hair style was popular among chldren. This<br />
shows that during the time of mlidiisa it was the practice among men to have a<br />
tuft of hair which, if long, was tied with a tape. Boys also wore long hair in<br />
locks.<br />
The Amarakoia, also adds some information regarding the<br />
method of hair arrangement. Different terms are used to denote different types<br />
of hair-style such as cikura, kuntala, keh, kaca etc. The mop of curled halr<br />
has been alluded to by the terms Kaiiika and Kaijla. Curled locks have two<br />
designations as ataka (curled locks) and cww kuniala (curly ringlets), the<br />
latter being the favourite practice of hair-dressing in this period. The fore lock<br />
or the lock of hair falling on the forehead has been alluded to by the term<br />
iikhanhku. Sikha or hair-lock worn by men at the top of the head has been<br />
198<br />
described by the terms cu& and keiupasi;
The practice of arranging the hair prevalent in the Gupta period<br />
must have continued to survive in the succeeding periods. This fact may bz<br />
corroborated by the literary accounts of fie post Gupta period. Baqa has<br />
furnished many interesting infomations as regar& the hair dressing of the<br />
P 99<br />
males and females. As regards the arrangement of the hair by the males, he<br />
says that, Bhanl~, the brother of the Queen Yaiovati had side locks of curly<br />
hair at the rge of eight. The chiefs who had come to visit Harsa had peacock's<br />
feather stuck in the top-knot. In the Kdambari, Miitarigaka, the Sabara chief<br />
had thick locks curled at the end and hanging on his shoulden. The hair of the<br />
king bristled like an array of arrow-heads shot out in hundred to lighten him for<br />
hy.200 Bans hrther says that the students wore long trofts of hair.'" Children<br />
probably wore matted hair.202<br />
Yuan Chwang on refering to the customs of non-believers,<br />
relates how some pull out their hair and cut off their moustaches, some mat<br />
their side hairs and made a top knot wilUZo3.<br />
The above literary accounts test@ to the practice of adorning<br />
the hair and arranging it in different ways.<br />
<strong>2.</strong> FEMALE HAIR-DRESSING:<br />
The appearance and attractiveness of women depend very much<br />
on their hair and the style in which they arrange and adorn it. In fact there is a<br />
hair style to suit every age and every face and a beautifid hair style enhances<br />
the beauty. It appears fkom the antiques of the Indus valley that the females<br />
were very fond of arranging their hair in different ways. But according to<br />
~acka~:~~ more is known of the styles of hair dressing by the men than of
those in vaogue among wornen, for the head dress worn by the female figurines<br />
prevent their hair i?om being seen.<br />
In the vedic period women dressed their hair in various ways as<br />
is evident fiorn the literature. It Ins been dcscribcd by the terms stuka, kurira,<br />
op& iiad kakardrdo.205 These terms probably denote different styles of hair<br />
dressing. Young ladies probably dressed tlleir hairs in four braids of kaparda-s<br />
which dangled at the back. In the opaia style the hair was arranged in a loose<br />
topknot, but A.C.D~S~O~ has identified it with the plaits used in dressing the<br />
hair especially of the women. Patafijali also conforms that the arrangement of<br />
207<br />
the hair was not so simple. He says that it was parted in the middle or the<br />
rnass of the hair was gathered together at the back and plaited into one or two<br />
long rolls hanging down as low as the waist, He also says that some times it<br />
was twisted and tied into a large knot at the back of the head.<br />
?'hc Nu@uStistru also co~fimq that proper attention was given<br />
by women towards arranging their hair.''* It is mentioned there that women<br />
arranged their tufts of hair in well drawn up positions. Regarding the female<br />
209<br />
hau dressing Glidisa says that women grew long hair; combedz1* and<br />
parted211 and then ht them in long They wore flowers, pearls and<br />
gems in their iong hanging tresses and on the p&g line.213 It is mentioned in<br />
the Meghadiita that the separated wives neither coiled nor combed their hair<br />
nor did they undo their tresses in order to knot them afresh which consequently<br />
grew rough and dry.214 In times of mourning also they did not comb their hair.<br />
They tied their tresses in one knit and put it at the top of the head, and it was<br />
called ikhikhci or cli&.215 They also knit the mass of hair in a single long braid,<br />
- 216<br />
technically known as ekavent. It was probably a simple style of arranging
their hair which was worn at the time of sorrow as well as the ple~re.~~~ in<br />
the ,$ci~unlula, it is mentioned that ~akunta~ appeared before the kmg with a<br />
218<br />
single braid, \vl~ili: in the Rlusuri~hhra, a wife sepw:itited from her husband<br />
719<br />
has been described as wearing ekaveni.- Probably the chief element in<br />
women's glory lay in dark and glossy locks hanging down to the hip,220 which<br />
may be proved by the fact that the poet refers to it more than once and uses it<br />
in simile.<br />
In the ~ ndambarc~~ Blna has mentioned the tying of the<br />
hair. Besides this he has mentioned that hair net was also used by the females<br />
222<br />
to make it more attractive. The hair was sleeked with oil and a thick bunch<br />
of flowers were used on the top. 223<br />
Thus it appears that various types of lkair dressing was known to<br />
the people of this period. Hence it may be suggested that people of this period<br />
showcd much intcrcst in decorating tllcir hair in diKercnt ways. Majurndar, has<br />
rightly observed that particularly women took more care for their hair<br />
dressing.224 Other learned historians like G.H. 0jha2" and C.V. ~ a i d ~ a<br />
have also opined that people during the period 6" -1 zLb cen. AD used to give<br />
special attention to hair dressing.<br />
There are some interesting references about the keia-vinyasa in<br />
the <strong>ARM</strong>. Haliiyudha mentions the following words keSa, Sirasrjh; murdhuja,<br />
koca, cikura, .firomha and vda, to denote the hair.227 Mer bathing the hair<br />
will be dried by the fragrant smokes. Then it will be arranged or decorated<br />
with fiagrant oil, sprouts, flowers etc. The decorated hair lock had different<br />
names according to their style of arrangement. Veni; dhammilla, kuntala and
kavart were the bandha viiesa-s mentioned by Hal2yudha. The mode of<br />
arranging hair is quite interesting in the research point of view.<br />
At frrst, the wet hair aRer bath will be dried with the fragrant<br />
smokes. mlidasa has described about the drying procedure. While drying the<br />
hair in smokes, the fragrance will pass into the hair. Kali&sa refers to the hair<br />
dried in smokes as liiycina - beautified.228 Since the hair is scented by the<br />
smokes, it is called as ~ihii~avlira.~~~ Ths method is known as ke3a<br />
230<br />
saniskGra. The heroincs of Blicbsa, sitting on the ups~irs, near the<br />
windows used to dry their hair, and from the smokes escaping out of the<br />
windows, the people passing through the'house will easily infer that a certain<br />
ndyikd is doing keia sn~kskrira.~~' After this keia sathskriro the hair lock is<br />
arranged in different styles. IIal2yudha refers to some hair styles prevalent in<br />
his time.<br />
i) Kuntala: It is a type of arranging the lock of hair.z32 It is also<br />
known as kuntala kaldpa. Kaldpa means both a peacock and a multitude.<br />
The word kalapa in kuntala kalupa has got the suggestion of the above said<br />
meaning. Arranging the hair, to appear beautifully as the feathers of peacock is<br />
known as kuntala kaldpa. According to McZnascEra, kuntala style of hair<br />
dressing will be done to the images of Goddesses LAqmi and ~arasvati."~<br />
ii) Dhammilla: It is another type of hair style. According to<br />
Arnara the lock of hair combined collectively as a single braid is known as<br />
dhamrni~la.~~~ This type of hair style is adopted by both men and women.<br />
Men's hair style is called mauli and that of women's is called dhammi2lu. The<br />
hair will be collected and grouped, then it will be tied with wreath of flowers.<br />
Flowers are also kept inside the lock of hair. Glidiisa mentions about this in
the ~a~huvalizsc~.~~~ Bgga refers to the release of the knot of hair. This art of<br />
dhummilla vinydsa can be seen in the Ajmha paintings. There are several<br />
types of dhammilla vinyaa-s are figured in the toys of Rajghat. Ths hair<br />
style is also figures in the stone image of Gupta period. 236<br />
There are also hvo more varieties of hair dressing is mentioned<br />
in the <strong>ARM</strong>. They are veni or ve?zidun& and kavar~~~~ Tying the lock of<br />
hair in a single knot is called veni. KavarE is the arrangement of hair in a<br />
simple style.<br />
111. COSMETICS<br />
It is the basic tendency of human being in all ages and climes to<br />
use cosmetics and to decorate one self in a way or other. ff a man of present<br />
day decks himself with various means of cosmetics and clothing in connection<br />
to his civilization and culture so did, the man of stone age, decorate himself<br />
with a feather into his hair, as his possessions were limited and whose main<br />
profession was hunting.<br />
In the Indus valley civilization, the finds of 'Kohl' - (collyrium)<br />
pots iud vases reveal the tnitll that kohl was applied to the lashes, eye-lids, the<br />
part immediately below the eye-brows. It was applied for both beautifjrlng and<br />
auspicious purposes as it was and is used by some sections of the Indian people<br />
to guard against thc evil-eye at marriages and other rituals.<br />
Cosmetics played an important part in the rituals while they<br />
also satisfied the variety of men and women by adding charm to their<br />
personality, increasing their natural beauty by artificial means. This is the<br />
purpose of various recipes and formulas for cosmetics in ancient India.
In the hdus valley civilization which flourished at the most<br />
conservative estimate about 2500 years before the Christian era, ornaments<br />
have been found; gold, silver, copper, ear rings, nose studs of blue glaze and<br />
bracelets of metals, shell and pottery. Hair pins, combs and mirrors are the<br />
important articles of proof for the make-up and the arrangements of coiffures.<br />
Bath farmed a very important part of the daily routine of the<br />
vedic people, and one cannot take part in religious ceremonies before bodily<br />
purification. In the ,.fatapatha Brdhihmaw it is mentioned that after the bath,<br />
eyes and feet were anointed because, 'such indeed are human means of<br />
embellishment and therewith they keep off death fiom therare~ves'.~~~<br />
Atharvaveda offen information of ointments being presented to the brides239<br />
and lo thc guests.24o<br />
An interesting description ofthe costumes and cosmetics of a<br />
housc Ilolder is give11 in thc A.+a/uyuna g$ya stitra in connection with the<br />
equipment of a brahrnacarin, when aRer finishing his studies he was ready to<br />
take leave of his teacher. Ai that time he was equipped with a jewel, necklace,<br />
a wreath, a pair of ear ring, a pair of garments, a turban, a parasol, a pair of<br />
shoes and a staff As regards cosmetics he had powder prepared fiom karafiju<br />
seeds, ointment and eye-sa1ve.241 Scents were favourites of women. In an<br />
incantation to sleep, in the Athawaveda, the women of pure odour<br />
242<br />
(pu yagandaya fz) are mentioned.<br />
?'he most important section fiom the point of view of cosmetics<br />
and articles of pelfume is to be found in the KauGlya'~ ~rthoidstra.~~~ It<br />
mentions a list of varieties of sandal wood as follows:
Satana - 11 smels like the earth aRer the rain had fallen.<br />
GoSir~aka<br />
- Dark red in colour; smels like a fish.<br />
Haricanclana - Fine old wood; greenish yellow in colour.<br />
Ttirpisu - Same as above.<br />
Grameruka - Red or dark red; sniels like goat's urine.<br />
Daiisasabhayaka - Red colour; smels llke lotus flower.<br />
Japaka - The same as above.<br />
Jorigaku - Red or dark red; soR in structure.<br />
TaurGpir - Same as above.<br />
Malaynka - Reddish white in colour.<br />
Kucandana - Black as aloe; red or dark red, very rough. It<br />
seems to be the true sandal wood.<br />
Koiakiiraparvataka - Black or variegated black in colour.<br />
Kalapawataka - It has a pleasant appearance.<br />
Sitodakiya - Black and so&, smelt like a lotus.<br />
Nagapawutaku - Product of the mountain of the same name.<br />
was rough and had the colour of Saivdla.<br />
jdcala - It was brown coloured.<br />
The majority of the Indians used twigs obtained from babul,<br />
neem or some other trees. Tooth powders and pastes must have also been used,<br />
as several have been prescribed in the Indian books of medicine. According to<br />
SuSruta the best tooth pate was obtained from honey, trika~, trivarga,<br />
fejovati, salt and oil. 244<br />
In Kdambart, Ba~a describes the King ~~draka who &r<br />
bathing in pefimed water, worshipped the deities and then proceeded to the<br />
toilet room (vilepana bhumi) where he besmeared his body with sandal paste
mixed with musk, camphor and Even, when king Harsa started for<br />
battle, anointed his body and his bow with sandal paste, put a chaplet of white<br />
flowers on his head and drew to the regiola of krs ear a fresh gorocanu spotted<br />
durva sprout.246<br />
~al~yudha~~~ refers to some ofthe materials used as make-up<br />
elements. Kz~hb~ma, candana, kastiiriku, karpura, agaru, farnbtiia,<br />
a7igarciga, alaktaka and afijana are the chief articles of decoration to adorn<br />
oneself After a bath the body of a person was perfumed by some modes called<br />
248<br />
carck or marsti. The ornaments are worn on appropriate places.<br />
Mewards the forehead is decorated with tiiaka or pun&~.z4' Then<br />
patravalli, a patch of musk and other ointments with which women adorn their<br />
person, are painted on shoulders, breasts and on At last afigarrigq<br />
different unguents used for perfuming the body, is applied.25 The art of make-<br />
252<br />
up is called pras&dhana. Sometimes, they also used ornaments of flowers,<br />
leaves md sprouts.<br />
IV. BaVAMENTS<br />
Human mind has always been a worshipper of beauty since pre-<br />
hstoric period. It is human nature to discover new things and present in an<br />
attractive and usehl manner. All the attractive forms of nature must have<br />
given an impetus to the development of man's desire for wearing ornaments.<br />
Most probably man started wearing ornaments with a view of increasing beauty<br />
but in course of time the practice was also associated with the utilitarian<br />
aspects. With the passage of time there were many changes in ornaments. No<br />
doubt the metals, jewels and stones which were used for making ornaments<br />
changed but there were many notable clianges in their foms and designs as
well. The artists while making ornaments make the best of their imagination to<br />
display their art at it? best. This results in changes in their ornamentation.<br />
These changes in the art of malung ornaments can be clearly noticed from<br />
various sources of 'Indi~m History'.<br />
It is a controversial question when man begun to wear<br />
ornaments and whether the tradition of wearing ornaments is earlier than that of<br />
wearing garments or vice-versa. Most probably man began to wear ornaments<br />
even in the pre-historic times and most probably man adopted both the<br />
practices i.e, wearing garments and ornaments simultaneously.<br />
In India the earliest authentic evidence of the practice of<br />
wearing ornaments is available in the Itldus valley civilization. A perusal of<br />
the art of making ornaments of this period makes us infer that long before this<br />
civilization the tradition of wearing ornrunetlts had started. Probably first of all<br />
men must have begun wearing ornaments made of flowers, feathers of birds,<br />
beads, bones, conch sl~ells and horns of animals.<br />
We havc some idea of the art of making ornmnents in the Iildus<br />
valley period fiom the images and the ornaments discovered in the excavations<br />
at Mohenjadxo and Harappa. Most of the ornaments were made of gold or<br />
silver in which were inlaid precious and semi-precious jewels and beads or<br />
piece of stone.<br />
From thc vedic literature we how the names af ornaments<br />
worn by India* in that period.253 At some places we also have informixtion<br />
about the shape of the ornament.<br />
In the epics are mentioned a number of ornaments of that<br />
period. The materials used for nuking ornaments were gold, silver, brass,<br />
254<br />
pearls, coral, diamonds, small shell and some times iron was also used.
People even in the sixth cat. B.C. were fond of wearing<br />
ornaments. In the Buddhist literature, we find the names of many ornaments.<br />
On the basis of the description of these omancnts is Buddhist literature we can<br />
say that the art of making ornaments was fiilly developed in this period.<br />
Man has always been in love with ornaments. The jewellers<br />
with their power of imagination have been providing variety and beauty to the<br />
ornatnents. It is dficult to identlfL all the ornaments used in the ancient time.<br />
But man has been wearing these ornaments in various parts of his body not<br />
only with a view of making them look beautifbl but also in compliance with the<br />
requirements of Indian religious beliefs. hi the following pages, a humble<br />
effort has been taken to identlfji the ornaments nlentiotled in the <strong>ARM</strong>.<br />
1. NeA'TEKIALS OF JEWELS:<br />
Ornaments cm be regarded as a symbol of man's attachment to<br />
the material world. A man wears ommerits to satisfy his natural instinct<br />
which makes lzim take steps by which he rnay look beautifid. People of lower<br />
economic slaius satisfy this instinct by making omLvnents only with beads of<br />
clay and conch shells. On the contrary the people with higher economic status,<br />
in addition to the ornaments made with aforesaid material, wore those made<br />
with precious metals like gold, silver etc., inlaid with precious grms such as<br />
diamonds, emerald, sapphire and adorned with beautifill ornamentation. The<br />
ornaments made of flowers were popular with men and women of all<br />
categories. Tlie tradition has come to us from very ancient times. From a<br />
study of the literary sources of ancient India it appears that ornaments were<br />
made with the following materials.<br />
i) Gold: Gold is a precious, lustrous, yellowish and beautxful<br />
metal. This metal has been used in India for making ornament3 since very<br />
ancient times. In the Amarkoiu we havc a list of eighteen synonyms of gold 255
and the gold ornaments are called ~nigi and ~anakarn.'~~ The scissors which<br />
was used to cut pieces of gold was called kypnni or karturi. 257<br />
ASvagliosa considers gold to bc tlic pu~cst and tllc bcst of all<br />
258<br />
metals. References to gold ornaments are met in plenty in the works cf<br />
Bhasa, K2lid$sa, Magha etc. It was a precious ~r~etal. It might, therefore, have<br />
been used by people of high economic sL~tus. According to Yuan Chwxng the<br />
business magnets wore finger lings made of gold. 259<br />
From the ancient literature we know that kings, emperors and<br />
the rich used gold utensils for eating food. Chain, seats and beds were also<br />
261<br />
made of gold or they were gold plated.260 Pitchen, pestles, yokes, 262<br />
pi~arsZ63 and coins264 were also made of gold. There is a reference in<br />
Kumurasambhava 6-om whch we know that seveii sages (sapfarig) had worn<br />
gold ornaments.265 The horn of the cows were also plated with gold.266<br />
From the Sivi Jatciku we know that gold was given in<br />
charity.267 The business of goldsmith was flourishing because people were fond<br />
of gold ornaments. From the Buddhist literature we know that five hundred<br />
gold smiths continuously worked all the twenty four hours for four months<br />
before they could complete the work of making ornaments for a lady named<br />
There is a reference to i~dgi konaku variety of gold in the<br />
~ddambari.~~~ This variety has also been mentioned in Amorakoio. Thus<br />
there is atnple evidence to show that people were very fond of gold ornaments<br />
from the ancient time itself.<br />
270<br />
It may be mentioned in this connection that Kaufilya<br />
mentioned five varieties of gold and has also specified their colours.
1. Jam bunada: It's colour was similar to that of'the h it of rose apple<br />
(black- plum). It was excavated in tllehferu mountai11 region.<br />
<strong>2.</strong> Scirulcum b ha: Its colour resembled the colour of the pollen of lotus<br />
Ilowcr. It wns excavatcd in thc ,
precious gems and jewels.'73 Tlie middle class people used silver for making<br />
274<br />
ornaments. Just as people gave gold in charity so they did silver. 275<br />
Besides the word raj~~fa, r@ya was also used for silver.276 The AmarukoSa<br />
gives five synonyms of silver namely 1) duvurym, 2) rajatam, 3) rGpyam, 4)<br />
khurjurclun and 5) S V ~ / U I ~ . C S ~ ~ or11iioic11ts<br />
C S<br />
etc., were also made of silver<br />
277 278<br />
;md coins, n~ir.r.or-s ;iild .jars<br />
~au~il~a'~~ mentions fom variety of silver namely -<br />
1. Tmlttadgata: Its colour resembled that of Jasmine flower. It was<br />
excavated fiom the Tu ttu tllou~ltain region.<br />
<strong>2.</strong> Gau@ka: Its colour was equal to that of tagara flower. It was<br />
found in Assam.<br />
3. K'dm buka: Its colour also resembled the flower of tcrgara. It was<br />
excavated from the region of Kd~n bu mountain.<br />
3. Cdkrav~laiiza: Its colour- was similar to that ofKunda flower. It<br />
was cxcnvatcd from the ccrkrnvaln mines.<br />
%kite, smooth and soft silver was considered the best. Black<br />
coarse silver with cracks was regarded worst. Haliiyudha me~~tltions four words<br />
to denote the silver.28D<br />
iii) Pearl: Pearl has been used for making ornament in India<br />
since very ancient times. The pearls were con~idered more useful for making<br />
neck ornaments than for other From a perusal of sculptures of<br />
the Kusaqa a ~d Guph periods it cat1 bc stated hat Ihe coxntnon practice was to<br />
thread the pearls in a string or wire and wear it as a neck ornament. A gasland<br />
282<br />
made of good quality pearls was called tdr&hdra.
Pearls were also used to decorate fbrnitures such as a wooden<br />
seat, umbrella283 or the handle of a sword.284 A pearl was also known as<br />
S&i and muktuphalu. The necks of elephants were also decorated with the<br />
285<br />
garlands of pearls. The pearl is regarded as having originated from a<br />
286<br />
mountain rock. AmarkoSa informs about the drills used for piercing hole in<br />
a pearl, namely risphopni or vnidhanikci. Z87 Halsyudha gives two words for<br />
a pearl. 288<br />
iv) Stiryakiinta: The gem siiryakantu is mentioned with other<br />
precious gems ir. the Jaina literature.289 According to ASvaghoga, the gem<br />
produced fire of fire1 and the Sun rays were brought together through this<br />
gem.2go 11 is not possible to identify such a gem in modern times. Scientifically<br />
the existence of such a gem is not i~npossible because if a lence or curved gem<br />
is placed in front of the Sun at a particular angle, fire can be produced.<br />
~autil~a~~' has called this gem, a kind of'crystd gem (sphogku). 11 is possible<br />
that t hs gem was prepared by having curves in various ways. The synonyms<br />
292<br />
llkc ark%~na rind dahanopala mentioned by Haliiyudha lu-e note worthy.<br />
v) Sph3ika: It is a crystal gem. It is a colourless, transparent<br />
295<br />
gem. It was used for making ornaments,293 staircase$g4 begging bowls<br />
decorating buildings296 etc. Kautilya has mentioned four varieties of this<br />
H~al2yudha has treated it as a synonym of siiryakrinta gem. 298<br />
vi) Vaidurya: It is considered one among the nine precious<br />
299<br />
gems. In the Sara ~ktaka~" its colour is said to be blue, and in the<br />
~ratjmlincifnka~~' its colour is said to be dark (Syrimn). Besides its use in
302<br />
ornaments it was also used in making feet of a bed-stead etc. Kau~ilya has<br />
given a detailed account of tlds gem.303 Haljyudha calls it also as<br />
304<br />
bal~vayyfu.<br />
vii) Marakata: It is also one among the nine The<br />
Ama~.akoSu gi.ves thee other synonyms of -&his word as murzitrnata,<br />
airnagarbha and h~zrinrna~i.~" 63na has also referred to tlis gem at many<br />
places. Its colour is said to be green. Halayudha nmes it iza~inmcr?d denoting<br />
its green colour. 307<br />
viii) Diamond: In the Amara it is called ratna and rna~zi. It was<br />
considered as precious as any other gem. Bana rnentioi~s a room inlaid with<br />
diamonds. '" Kaultily a gives a ddailed account of this log HalByudha<br />
also mentions the terms rutna and ma%. 310<br />
ix) Padmaruga: According to Kau~ilya it rcsernbled a variety<br />
of lotus called padma.311 It was red in colour and was used in ornaments as<br />
my other gem. It was also !mown as Son&51zd.<br />
312<br />
x) Saikllrt : In the literary works we do have many references to<br />
313<br />
the ornaments made of conch shells. Probably people with Ijrnited economic<br />
means used these ornaments. It is also possible that even the rich might 11a.ve<br />
worn ornaments made of conch shells for a change. Halayudha also mentions<br />
xi) Iron: Probably the pcople of limited ecoiiomic means must<br />
have used ornaments made of iron. It is also probable as in rnodern times,<br />
people might have worn iron ornaments to protect thernselves from various
misfortunes. From Bgna we how that an ascetic named ~aivncar~a wore a<br />
conch shell threaded in an ir~n-rin~.~" Halayudha refers eight different words<br />
3 16<br />
to mean the iron.<br />
xii) Flower Ornaments: It is vety popular in Indian Society.<br />
Kings and poor, nzen md women all were equally fo'und of wearing flower<br />
ornaments. Probably flower ornmnents must have been so popular because<br />
they could be worn always in new designs and ways. On the contrary the<br />
ornaments made of precious metals, gems and other substances cannot be made<br />
in different designs so easily. It was for this reason that flower ornaments of<br />
various designs contiliued to be popular for so long. The fashion of wearing<br />
garlands of flower appears to have been very popular with the Rgvedic<br />
317<br />
Arym. From the words of Bh2sa, IGli&sa, M2gha, and Ba~a it can be<br />
bown that the ornaments made of flowers were won1 in all parts of the body<br />
from feet to the head.<br />
These ornments werc n-ladc with flowcrs like voscrnl~, i~'~ridrl,<br />
kurcrvuka, kumula, manddra, nameru, Icar+lkWra, sindhuv&-a, kesara,<br />
parpita, Grip, lodhru, kudarnba, malati, uioka etc. In addition to all these<br />
flowers, s~ndl leaves, sprouts, stalks of gasses and clusters of blossom of<br />
various bees were also won1 as omments.<br />
3 18<br />
There is a reference in the Pc~~lmcryrGZzhfluiccr that a wonla11<br />
decorated her hair with flowers of -\:dsanli, ~ C ~ L M and ~ U k~rravaka. In the<br />
Meghduta it is stated that in the Alakapurz, women had lotus flowers in their<br />
hands to play; they used kunda flomlcrs to decorate their hair, powder of lodhra<br />
to beauti& their fdces, used kurcrvuku lo decorate their coiffires, used 6rZu<br />
flo~ier as an ear ornament and in parting of their hair they used kadhmba
flower which bloomed on the arrival of their beloved.319 Ornaments made with<br />
tender leaves were also very popular. Kalidasa has stated that in the spring<br />
season, not only the flowers of aioka tree excited the lovers for sexual pleasure<br />
but also the tender leaves of that tree worn as ear rings by their sweet hearts<br />
320<br />
also generated amorous feelings in the hearts of pleasure seeking gentlemen.<br />
B2na states that the tender leaves of the dBrva grass in the ears of king Harsa<br />
resembled an ear ring made of emerald (marakafoTZ1 Flower ornaments were<br />
also worn at the time of marriage. It is stated in the Narsacarita that<br />
Orahavanni wore a garland of rnallika flowers on his head, nuptial head dress<br />
made of flowers in the centre and the vaikak~kzr (a garland won1 in tlie<br />
manner ofa sacred thread) made offlorvers on his chest.32z<br />
A bird's eye view of the literary refkrences quoted above makes<br />
us conclude that jewels, gems and other substances were widely used for<br />
making ornaments by the people in that period.<br />
Halayudha gives some valuable information regirding flower<br />
ornaments prevailed in his time. The flower garland is known as mulu or<br />
sr&323 The wreath of flower worn on the lock of hair is called garbhaka.324<br />
If the wreath is fastened to the look on the crown and hrther hanging down<br />
with the braid of hair, it iq grabhraS&kii.325 A wreath of flower worn on the<br />
forehead is named as lalcimoka.326 The vaikak;~ is a garland ww-n scarf-like<br />
327<br />
in the same way as the upav$ta, across the chest. A garland worn round the<br />
328 -<br />
neck is termed as pralambaka. Apt& is a chaplet worn on the crown of the<br />
head.329 Flowers, sprouts and some leaves were also worn on the ear.330 Apart<br />
from flower, leaves and sprout, the red lac called ahktu was also produced<br />
33 1<br />
from some trees and were used to dccorate the Feet.
<strong>2.</strong> TYPES OF ORNAMENTS :<br />
Probably wearing or~~ments has played at1 inlportant role in<br />
increasing the beauty of human beings. The different types of ornan~ents worn<br />
in thc various parts of t11c batly citn bc classified ns hcad omiullcnts, ciu<br />
ornaments etc., Here an effort is made to identity and study the on~aments<br />
mentioned by HalByudha.<br />
i) Head Ornament: The habit of wearing liead ornaments is<br />
very old and it can be traced back to the Indus valley civilization. Most of the<br />
figures of Indus valley period have high fan-like head-dress on the head and in<br />
some cases broad ribbon like ob-jects are shown around the lower parts of the<br />
head dresses. Other types such as 'V' shaped ornaments are also noticed on the<br />
forehead or some of the l~u~le figures found tiom Mohelljodaso. 'i'he hair<br />
333<br />
pins have also been found which might have been used by women.<br />
We have no evidence from the Rgveda whether the people used any head<br />
ornaments such as a crown or a turban. The iutapotha B~ahihmapa describes<br />
lllclra~i as weari~lg<br />
332<br />
334<br />
lJle usrLr.!n as her head-dcss. Ciods mid men li-ow the<br />
Barhwt sculptures wore mostly the turbans and not the jewelled crowns,335 and<br />
the same can be said from the evidence of Sanchi The<br />
Nagarjn~zakonda sculptures of about the second century A.D. shows that in tlie<br />
South India of that period, turbans formed the most cornmoll head dress for<br />
Inen but here we find the wearing of crowns coming illto practice especially by<br />
337<br />
princes. Halayudha has also included USTL~W into the head ornament<br />
category. 338<br />
The use of head ornaments has been attested to by Panini who<br />
has alluded it to by the term lailipk~Z.kr~ Various types of head ornaments worn
y both men atld women are referred to in the ~d~yo~cisra;~~~ they are<br />
muJzm@, ma&, kzri~, czidumapi, Sirsajda, SikhzpGtra, rnuktajda,<br />
gcrvdk~ukt7, ver~ikuZjc~, si'khapuiu, Sikh&j&la, pinqkputra, vczrtulala~ik& and<br />
lal6ipkntild-o. K2lidast-i has menlioned ns many of three types of head<br />
ornaments and had alluded to it by the term cr,i&nzani, kapulama* and<br />
inri/~.~~' Cli&maru and Kaprilamn@ were worn on the forehead and<br />
correspond to djildem, wlds the kirtg cor~esponds to the cro\vn was studded<br />
with jewels. According to ~ lidisa~~~ only two types of head ornaments were<br />
worn by women and they are rnukt@iinla and rndlya. Mukfujdla was a net of<br />
pearls while mdya was worn on the bun or knot of the hair. ~2gha~" has<br />
frequently mentioned about mukufa which was made up of gold and was beset<br />
344<br />
with prccious gcms. l3;irja has dcs~ribcd ttlc licad orl~amcnls by lhc tcrnis<br />
ctZ@rna@, laldtikli, mnuktikn, ~nukutcr, Siroruhn and marigdlthara?zcl. ,<br />
Cu&ma@, Kirip, Ko#ira, U.t:tisn uid hhhp were the head ornaments<br />
345<br />
meiltioned by I-Ialiiyudlia. The It?rir&z, ko@~'cr a11d mukup are one and Ihe<br />
But Somadeva in his YaSastilakm, uses the word uspi~a in the sense of a<br />
si'rovusz~a-turbm. He describes that the soldiers of northern region were<br />
wearing multi-coloured uSnisa-s.347 From him it is not h~otwi how it war in<br />
shape and appearance and how to wear it. But one thing we can know from<br />
348<br />
this reference is that us?zi$.a-s are made up of clothes of different colours,<br />
CG&ma@ is a popular head ornament ofwornan. It is a crest jewel. It was in<br />
vogue right from the day of Rumdyn?za where S i gives ~ her cii@rnani as a<br />
token for Hanumn. It was not o.tlly regarded as an ornament but also<br />
respected as the mark of auspiciousness. Garbhuku, prubhra#aka, Ealumaka,
iipi47, Sekhnrtx, ~rttnmsL~ and nvatnmsn are all flowery ornaments worn on<br />
ii) Ear orncunent: The terr:~cottas discovered from Harappa and<br />
350<br />
Mohenjodaro reveal the use of' only circular type of ear-drops. In the<br />
351<br />
I~arnaya~m, two types of car omimlcnts arc mcntioncd. '141oy arc lcu~(ialn<br />
and trikaraqa. P,;i~ini refen to a type of car ornament called Kctrykc? 352<br />
There is a mention of a heavy type of kunhla in Muhubhwa by<br />
~ataiijali."~ In the NZtyufstra there are references to five hds of ear<br />
ornaments used by men and they are kcrrvabhi2rav, kuv&la, mocakala, kilo<br />
354<br />
and .CronisGtm. It also informs us that various types of ear rings were also<br />
used by women like kundala, karwkd, karpuvalaya, pafmkar@ku,<br />
kumplpinudrci, kurnotkilaka and ka:nrwrira.35s ~ali&sd~~ has mentioned<br />
L<br />
many kinds of ear ornaments. Most of these types were pendants made up of<br />
357<br />
rubies and other precious stones. Bsna has described the ear ornaments by<br />
the terms karnuvurumsu, kur?uptira, ktl~~&la, tpka~~faku, bdika and<br />
3 58<br />
kur nab h qy. Uttamsa, avatunisa, kur.!mpuru, tdurijdil, tfiqbpatril,<br />
kundaia and karnikd are the ex ornaments mentioned by ~ a ~ ~ u d h a .<br />
Among them uftamsa and avatamsa are flowery ornaments, usually made of<br />
sprouts and flowers. The habit of wearing uvatamsa was in practice in<br />
Karnataka and Bengal. This can be known from the references - 'Kar?&@<br />
yuvuti surat~vatamsa' and 'bangavanitu Srava~avatamsa' of somadeva in<br />
his ~n.f'o,~tilaka.~" Karnnytiro, rfi~aljkn or tddapotra, k14,cndala and korwkd<br />
are ear ornaments made up of gold. The deii word available for kcrrypura is<br />
lianphul (Kaqmp uru r k-arqzphtila > kanphi.71). It was in the stage of a hlly<br />
bloomed flower and an opening bud. Kar~ikli is a golden ear ring. According
to Apnura both kar~pkd and tdlaparra are one and the same.3" Kpmvdmi<br />
further clarifies that kar*zici was mkde in gold like tdlnparro.362 But<br />
Halayudha generalises the te~m by denoting all the ear onlaments as<br />
k ~ r ~ u Probably k b ~ ~ by ~ the time ol. Halayudha the tern1 must have lost its<br />
particular rnea~ling mid came to mean 2u.t ear ornament in general.<br />
jii) Neck On~rm~ert: The neck o~r~aments as revealed from the<br />
terracotta figurines ofthe Indus vallcy pcriod iwe characterised by two different<br />
types, ilallely llre dog-collared or close fitting type md the flowing type which<br />
passed round the neck hanging down to the chesi region.'" The use of<br />
nccltlace as or~~larncnts is as old as the figveclu for wc Br~d in il such an<br />
to be wo111 in later times. The Ad&i?ablziirnta refers to jewelled necklaces. 366<br />
367 368<br />
A? a cnsc in point, reference may bc l~~adc to ~i.~kagriva, rzikma a~nd<br />
kanfhahdra369 corresponding to close fitting strings. TI12 hanging necklaces<br />
which xe not nu close fitting as thc dog collared types have also their parallel<br />
in ,sraju, IcuZcanmalu and cundruhd~c.i ofvedic and Rrdmmical literature.<br />
371<br />
Kautilya adds many niosr: types of nzck ornkunents. Thesl: types of neck<br />
ornaments were rna~ufic~ctured under the supervision of Suvarr~~dhy(zksu.<br />
According to the -Rii?g,nScistra various types of neck ornaments were used by<br />
372<br />
men and Even Kslidgsa has nrentiooned various types of neck<br />
ornm~ents, From him we come to b ow the colltinuation of the two types of<br />
necklaces (close fitting and hanging) though they have been described Ey<br />
different terms on the basis of their fom, shape and design. Among the short<br />
necklaces he hs~s iner~tioncd niska, a neclclace probably i~lrrde up of coiils<br />
stringing togcdler. Among the liiingi~lg or flowing types hc h:\s n~cniioiicd<br />
370
mukrrivali, . fdrkhcira, hrirahuraiekhara, haraya.s#, vaijaylintikd,<br />
hemast.itra,pralamba and In the KLidornbari it has been alluded to<br />
by the tern kanakamayya, hara, tciro, hGraprabh& gkGvali and m d ~ ~<br />
M2gha has described the neck orn~ment,~ by the terms mauktikahara and<br />
mdld. 376<br />
Hal2pdha gives the following names of the ornaments worn<br />
around neck. De~acchanda, mayavaka, hum, guccha, ardhaguccha,<br />
gopuccha, ekuvali, kantika, nakqtramald - and pralam baka are the<br />
grivdbhurana-s mentioned by him.377 Devacchonda is a necklace of pearls<br />
consisting of hundred strings. A4&wvaka is w. necklace of hundred strings.<br />
In a h&ra there will be 108 or 64 strings of pearls. A necklace of 3 2 strings is<br />
3 78<br />
called guccha. According to Nemacandra, ardhaguccha is a necklace<br />
consisting of 24 strings and gopuccho is of two ~trjngs.~~' Ekrivali is a<br />
ncckluc of singlc stri~~g of pcnrls. Ajnlrrlr hi^ dcfincd it as E~UVU&<br />
ekaya~p'k6 i.e. single string necklace. 380 Many images and pictures of Gupta<br />
- 381<br />
age can be seen wearing ekaalz. Bdna has refereed to an interesting story<br />
in connection with ekuvali, in Harqacarita, Divakaramitra narrates the<br />
background of the ekavali to Haqa. 'This ekavalt' was made fiom the pearls<br />
born out of the eye-drops of moon. Vgsuki, the king of serpants collected all<br />
the pearls and made it as an ekmuli. Later he presented it to Nsga juna and<br />
he inturn gave it to his friend Siitav~hana. The same ekavalf has now come to<br />
us through tradition'.382 K ~ is also Q a necklace ~ of single string ofpearls.<br />
Nuksutrumdld is a necklace of 27 pearls. Prdurhbaka is the garland worn<br />
round the neck.383 The centrat gem of the hura is known as t ara~a.~~~
iv) Hand Qrnaent : Some of the male figures &om<br />
Mohenjodaro have been shown wearing circular ring round the arms and<br />
hands. There are as many as eleven rings from the wrist to the arm. Several<br />
such rings have been found in Harappa and ~ohenjodaro.~*~ They are<br />
nothing but wristlets and armlets. The hand oments appear to be very<br />
popular among women during this period. This is confiied by two bronze<br />
figures with each of their hands having been adorned with a row of rings rising<br />
Frmn the wrist to the shoulders.386 Bracelets were used by the Aryans of the<br />
Rgvedic period.387 Both ongada and keyrira are frequently mentioned in<br />
the Mahdbhdrara . Hopkins says that armlets are the most commonly<br />
mentioned ornaments in the great epic.388 There use is also indicated in the<br />
South. India of the 2'' cen.<br />
Pataijali confirms the use of hand ornament called kap~ka.~~'<br />
Various types of hand ornaments used by men are mentimed in the<br />
Nhtyaidstra and ffiey are valaya, rucika, citika, hastavali, keytira and<br />
a~i~odo.~~' It also contoins numerous references regarding the use of hand<br />
ornaments by women.3g2 These ornaments were worn on the wrists, arms, in<br />
between the elbows etc. Ulidiisa has alluded to it by the terms aiLgada and<br />
vulayu corresponding to armlets and bracelets.393 Arcordig to Bg~a, B h d<br />
has decorated his fore arms with bra~e1et.s.~~~ In the Kdambari, some chiefs<br />
of Udain have been described wearing bracelets. 395 ~2gha has also<br />
mentioned that these ornaments were worn by men during his<br />
Keyiiru, angada, LZvGpa and parihdrya are the ornaments<br />
worn on the arms mentioned by ~ala~udha.~" They all denote UIC armlets.
Halayudha treats both keyt3ra and aligadu as synonym. Amara also has<br />
treated them in the same way.398 &irasv2mi gives the etymology of the two<br />
words - 'ke bahuiirse yauti iti keyuram, ahgam dayate zti aligadam'. 399<br />
Both men and women wore this armlots. Valap, kurikap~ and knpkct arc<br />
the ornaments worn around the wrist enlisted by ~ala~udha.~*~ Kufaka and<br />
valaya are a kind of bangle or bracelet. Kalikay is a rope or thread tied<br />
around the wrist during some auspicious ceremonies. It is also known as<br />
40 1<br />
pratr'sura.<br />
v) Waist Ornament : The use of girdles or the waist ornaments<br />
can be traced back to the Indus valley ~ivilization.~" In the vedic;O3<br />
I3rahmanicd4O4 nod ePic4O5 period as well wc get numerous literary references<br />
to the use of various types of ornaments. It has been alluded to by the term<br />
roianri and rnekhalri.406 The $atapntha Brahmap shows that waist band<br />
was worm around the lower garment and it appears that it was more a part of<br />
dress than an ornamental devicen407 Its use in South India of about znd<br />
Century AD is clearly testified by the evidence of Na@rjunakon&<br />
sculptures. 408<br />
PA~ini also codm the use of wais.t ornament by the term nivf<br />
409 . The Nu&aSGstra informs us that two types of girdles were used and they<br />
were called taralu and ~titraoka.~'~ Tamla was a loose girdle while siitroka<br />
was a girdle string. It also inform about kuAcl; mekhala, raiand aid kalupa<br />
worn by women.411 KGiiici was made up of one string of pearls or beads,<br />
mekhulu was a girdle with eight strings, rahna was made up of sixteen<br />
strings, while kaldpa was a girdle of twenty five strings. Gli&sa also
confirms the use of girdles during his tirne412 In the Har;acarita, it har been<br />
stated that king Haw has presented tlie ambassador kern the king of Assan,<br />
besides other ornaments, a waist-band called the parinive$a.413 In the<br />
$iwrilnvadha also mention has been made to the use of k~bandho.~~~ It was<br />
probably made with the mufija grass.<br />
Kaldpa, saptaki; ka ficl, mekhala raianu, ka p's atra,<br />
s8rasana, ki&iqi; k.pdraghantjkii were the ornaments worn around the<br />
waist, referred by ~abyudha,~* Both HaQydha and ~tnarashha~'~ have<br />
treated kaldpa, saptaki, kaAci, mekhala, rasand and sdrasana as synonyms<br />
meaning a girdle. But from the description of Sornadeva it can be known that<br />
there was a slight difFerence between mekhalfi and kafici. Kt.Zici should be a<br />
girdle of strings of small beads and mekhu2d should be entwined with small<br />
bells. He refers to kufici as ka2cigu~ and mekhal6 as mmukhara<br />
rna@rnekhalii. In another context he refers to a mekhaEGZ entwined with bells<br />
- mekhlci mani kinkini j61a ~odane~.~'~ KaQ'sliha was a silken thread or<br />
cord worn by females round their loins. Kilikiyi and k+xdrughan#u must<br />
be the tiny bells attached with mekhnlli. 418<br />
vi) Leg Ornament : That the anklets were worn by the women<br />
of Mohenjodaro becomes certain from the little bronze foot and the pottery<br />
419<br />
figurines. The Na%yaSiistra informs us that various types of leg ornaments<br />
were used by women during that period iil~d they are pdapafra, ngpura,<br />
krr&@, andp&aka@ka."' Ulidlisa makes numerous references to the use<br />
of various types of anklets by women. 421 It appears from the literary<br />
evidences that men were initially not fond of log ommonts, as there are no
evidence of men wearing leg ornaments in the early literature. But later on,<br />
they also adopted it from the women. B2na says that the chieftain who came to<br />
visit king Htqa had worn anklets called pidubandha inset with precious<br />
422<br />
stones.<br />
Si fijin i, plfdakcr&ka, tul~3koti, n apura, rnaiijira and<br />
hamsaka are the cara@bhara~-s enlisted by ~ ali~yudha.~~~ According to<br />
him all the words are synonyms of an anklet or a tinkling ornament for the<br />
feet of women.<br />
vii) Finger Ornament: Finger rings have occasionally been<br />
found at Mohenjodaro. The discovery of a few silver rings may suggest that<br />
424<br />
frnger rings were used. The arriguliyukcr is found frequently mentioned in<br />
the Ramuya~ta and Mahtibhiirata. The NdySdstra idom us that the<br />
finger rings were used by men. It has been alluded to by the terms aligulvaka<br />
and mudr~i.~'~ During Lhe time of Kalidlsa finger ring have become very<br />
popular and were worn by both men and women as it is evident fi-om his<br />
master piece namely ~dtuiiculam. The poet makes numerous references to<br />
the use of finger rings by women. They are either with the design of serpent 426<br />
or with the name of the owner imprinted on them. In the Siiupdavadha there<br />
427<br />
is a reference to another type of finger ring called urmikd.<br />
According to Halgyudha both ariguliyaka and tkrnika mean<br />
a ring worn in the finger.428 A ring marked with the initials of its owner is<br />
called a~iguljrnudrs~~ (signet ring). Du~yanta presented sucli a ring to<br />
~akuntak.<br />
The aliguZimudr&-s are very common among royal personalities.<br />
* * *
NOTES<br />
Raghu, 5.76; 6.10; Rtusam., 1.7, <strong>2.</strong>26, 4.3, 5.2, 6.15 etc.<br />
Raghu, 9.1 1, 9.50; Vikrama, III. 12; hk., VII.2 2 etc.<br />
Dr. Pmdey, Indu Prabha, Dress and Onximnets in Ancient India, p. 17<br />
Marshall, Mohenjodaro and hdus Valley Civilmation, I. p.33.<br />
iiva.~r.SU.,<strong>2.</strong>3.4.17; Lat.Su.,<strong>2.</strong>6.1+; 9.<strong>2.</strong>14.<br />
Jain, J, C, Jaina Agama Sahitya meriz Bhiiratiya Samaj, pp. 206-7.<br />
Mahgvagga, 8.<strong>2.</strong>1,<br />
Divyavadana, 1 1 + 9, 11,<br />
Ibid, 11.21. 25,<br />
Warrnington, Commerce betweent the Roman Empire and India,<br />
p. 21<strong>2.</strong><br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong>6,111,<br />
Motichandra, Bharatiya VeSabhUsa, p. 154,<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>395,<br />
Divya, ~~216.<br />
Watters, Yuan Chwang Travels in India, I. p. 301.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>326,<br />
Sarkar, Some Aspects of the ealier Social History of India, p. 59.<br />
Motichaidra, p. 13.<br />
Monier Williams, A Sanslait English Dictionary, p, 616.<br />
AV, 18.4,3 1,<br />
21. Sarkar, p. 6, fn. 5.
Motichandra, op, cit., p.15.<br />
sat. Bra. 5.2,1.8,<br />
Panini, Astadhyayi, 4.3.4<strong>2.</strong><br />
Rama, 2,40.9,<br />
Aca, ~ a., <strong>2.</strong>5.~.<br />
Mbh, 2,47,22,<br />
Nisitha carani, p, 467.<br />
Br. Kal, Su. Bha~ya, 4. 3661,<br />
Agarwal, V. S., Harsacarita eka Samskrtika Adhyayana, pp. 78, 79.<br />
Vikrama,, 111.1<strong>2.</strong><br />
Raghu., 9.43.<br />
Rtu., 6.4. 27.<br />
Vikrama., p, 60.<br />
Megha,, p, 41,<br />
Agarwal, V. S., India known to Panini, p. 225,<br />
Motichandra, p. 93,<br />
By, Kal, Su. Bhasya, 4. 3661,<br />
Nsitha,, 7, p.467.<br />
Harsacarita, p. 7.<br />
Ibid, p. 10,<br />
Ibid, p. 114.<br />
Acarariga, Vastra, 14.6.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, 2,394,
Motichandra, p, 95.<br />
Arth. Sas., <strong>2.</strong> 11.<br />
Ibid.<br />
Madhyama Vydyoga, p, 5.<br />
Amara, ed. Ramanathan, A. A,, 1, p. 434; V, 1 13.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, 2,394,<br />
Wta, 11.15,<br />
Kumara,, 5. 30.<br />
Agruural, V. S., KSdambari: eka SfimsQtika Adhyayana, p, 56.<br />
Kumara., 7. 37; Raghu, 4. 65, 14.81.<br />
Kumgra., 5. 67; SZU., 4, 64.<br />
Motichandra, p. 15 1.<br />
Niiithacurani, 7.467.<br />
Sak., I, 8.19; Kum2ra, 5.8.16; V.S. Aganval, K2d. Sam. Adhy,,<br />
pp. 178,214, 328.<br />
Agarwal, V. S,, Kad. S2m. Adhy, p. 150.<br />
V2mana pur,, 14,61.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>28.<br />
Divyavadsna, p. 349 quoted by Motichandra, p. 96.<br />
Ibid, p, 83 quoted Ibid,<br />
Ibid, p. 194. quoted Ibid.<br />
Watters, Yuan Chwang Travels in India, I. p, 120.<br />
Motichandra, p. 3 1.
199<br />
Lalitavktara, p. 3 12; ed. Vaidya, P.L., Mithila Vidyapitha,<br />
Darbhanga - 1958.<br />
Minier WiEliams, p. 470.<br />
Lalita., p. 31<strong>2.</strong><br />
Paiicatantra, I. 66.<br />
Br. Kal. Su. Bhiisya, 4. 3661,<br />
Jain, J. C,, p. 207, fn,5.<br />
Motichandra, p. 61.<br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong> 6, 113.<br />
AlIotichandra, p. 149.<br />
RV., I. 67. 3.<br />
Gayatri Varma, Kglidgsa ke granth Tatkalina Samsm, p. 200.<br />
Monicr Williams, p, 581.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 394.<br />
'dukt2lam gau vigya vifisp ktirpdsikam' Acsraliga, <strong>2.</strong> Vastra.<br />
Srl. 368.<br />
NiSitha.,7. 10. 1<strong>2.</strong><br />
Arth. as., <strong>2.</strong> 11.<br />
Ibid,<br />
Jain, J. C., 11. 206 - 7,<br />
Acaranga, I. 7,5, 1 ., 11, 5. 1. 3.<br />
DivyavadZina, p+ 316.<br />
Lalita, p. 333,
Motichandra, p. 97.<br />
Ibid.<br />
200<br />
Agawd, V. S4, Harsacaritsl eka Sarnskma Adhyayana, p. 77<br />
Ibid, pp. 77, 78.<br />
Ibid, p. 78,<br />
Kad.: p. 17.<br />
Hqa, p, 20<strong>2.</strong><br />
Motichandra, p. 147 ( Bhar, ves. bhu)<br />
Antaga* das30, p. 32, quoted by Motichandra, p. 148.<br />
Raghu., 17. 25.<br />
Bha?ft'kavya, 3. 34; 10 -1.<br />
Gimgovinda, 1, 4, 6., <strong>2.</strong> 6. 3,, 1<strong>2.</strong> 2<strong>2.</strong> I., 1<strong>2.</strong> 23. 3.<br />
Agarwal, V, S,, I-Iarsa Sam, adhy,, p. 76.<br />
Rtu., 1, ,4<br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong> 6. 1 13.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, 2,394.<br />
Harsa, p, 60.<br />
Ibid, p, 16.<br />
Ah, Sgs., <strong>2.</strong>11, with the comrnenatary of Ganapathy Sastri.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, 2,217,<br />
kpmatast rasyavik~ra~k~unmm duhyate k~rnLZylZ &gate<br />
duk dam / Abhi, Cint2maa., 3. 3 3 3.<br />
~abdaramilkara, 3. 213$
201<br />
Dicy. of Eco. Pro., I. p. 468 - 9.<br />
xcurariga, <strong>2.</strong>5. 1. 1 .; Mahavagga, 8.9. 14.<br />
Motichandra, p, 145,<br />
Jain, J. C,, P, 206<br />
Quoted, Ibid, fn. 3,<br />
Motichandra, p, 146,<br />
VSyu b., 8. 89.<br />
Ibid, 80, 4-6,<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>391.<br />
A Record of Buddhist Religion as Practiced in India and the Malaya<br />
Archipelago, tr. by Takakusu, Oxford - 1896; p. 54<br />
Ibid, p, 43,<br />
AM, <strong>2.</strong>291,<br />
YaSatilaka, p. 13<strong>2.</strong><br />
Ibid, Sarnskp pka .<br />
Ibid, Uttara, p, 8<strong>2.</strong><br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>39 1,<br />
hid.<br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong>3, 1 18.<br />
Abhi. cinti3rnqii, 3. 336 - 37.<br />
Jh, J, C., Jaina Agarna Sahitya mem Bharatiya Sarns~a,<br />
Chaukhamba Vidya Bhavana, Varanasi - 1965.<br />
Arth. as., ed. R, Sarma Shastry, p. 114.
M&vagga, VIII. 13.4, 5.<br />
Takakusu, p. 54.<br />
Amma, <strong>2.</strong> 3. 117.<br />
MahAvagga, 8. 13.4 - 5.<br />
Kumra., 8. 2; M$lavikg., 5.7.<br />
Mathura museum, Se. No. 353<strong>2.</strong><br />
Byhat. Kal. Su. Bbsya, IV. 4084.<br />
Hqa., Tr. Cowell, p. 261.<br />
ham, <strong>2.</strong> 6. 118.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 39<strong>2.</strong><br />
Mahiivagga, VIII. 29. 1.<br />
Bhik. moWa, IV. 40.96.<br />
Samayam2itrk.2 , VIII. 54 - 56.<br />
Atnara, 11. 8. 64.<br />
Agrawal, V. S,, Harsa. Sam. Adhy., Fig. 7<strong>2.</strong><br />
Motichandra, Bh2r. VeS. Bhtis, p. 161.<br />
Quoted, Ibid, pp. 184, 185.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>397.<br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong> 8. 64.<br />
Agarwal V. S., Harsa. Sam. Adhy., p. 150.<br />
Agarwal, V. S.., Ahicchatra ke khilone, fig. 305, p. 173.<br />
Motichandra, p. 16 1.<br />
Raghu., 4. 55.<br />
Ibid, Sarhs- tika.<br />
Harsa., p. 206.<br />
Ibid, p. 24.<br />
GdarnbM, p. 215.
%id, p. 216.<br />
Motichandra, Costume Textiles Cosmetics and Coiffure in Ancient and<br />
Mediaeval India, p. 8.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 39<strong>2.</strong><br />
Mathura Museum, Sec. No. 213.<br />
Notichandra, Costume, Testiles Cosmetics and CoiffUre in Ancient and<br />
Mediaeval. India, p. 16 1.<br />
, <strong>2.</strong> 397.<br />
h a , <strong>2.</strong>6. 1 13, with the commentary of K.+irasv%ni.<br />
Ibid, Sarfi. fiu.<br />
Sabda Rat,, 3. 225.<br />
YaSastilaka, Piirva., p. 7 1.<br />
Notichandra, Coshune, Tediles Gosmetics and Coiffinre in Ancient and<br />
Mediaeval India, p. 16 1.<br />
Agarwal, V. S., Harsa. Sam. Adhy., p. 154.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>397.<br />
Mbh., ed. ICinjawadekar, Poona - 1929; 11. 5. 1. 8.<br />
Brhad. Up., II,3. 6.<br />
Arth. ~2s. ed. Shama Sllastxy, p. 89-90.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>396.<br />
YaSas., uttara, p. 200.<br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong>3.116.<br />
Watters, Yuan - T-sang 's travels in Indian, part - I.<br />
YaSas., parva., p. 575.
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>396.<br />
AV, XEV. <strong>2.</strong> 66-67.<br />
ARhl, <strong>2.</strong>396,<br />
Mackay , C., p. 80.<br />
Marsahall, pl, XCIX - 5,6,8.<br />
RV, VII. 33.<br />
Ibid, I. 114; VI. 55, 1; IX. 67. 11.<br />
Das, Rgvedaic Culture, p. 21 7.<br />
Social and Religious Life in Gyhyasutras, Bombay - 1939, p. 73.<br />
Arth. ~%s., ed Shama Shastry, p. 18, V. 19.<br />
Ibid, p. 20, V. 21.<br />
Manu.,IV. 34-36; Y;?;jjr?a., 1. 131-33.<br />
Puri, B. N., India in the tirne of PatafijaJi, p. 106.<br />
Raghu, XVI, 43.<br />
Vikrarna., V. 247.<br />
Raghu., I. 42; 111. 28.<br />
Arnara, pp, 423,24; V. 95-97; ed. Ranlanathan, A. A.<br />
Hssa, pp, 30,72, 116, 203 and 243.<br />
Kadarnbm-, ed. Kane, P. V,, p. 28.<br />
Harsa., pp. 35, 47, 94.<br />
Kiidarnbari, ed, Kane, P. V,, p, 13,<br />
Watters, OnYuanChwang, I, p. 148. 151.<br />
Mackay, E., Early Indus Civilization, p. 180,
RV, X. 114.37; VZII, 14. 5.<br />
Das, A. C., Rgvedic Culture, p. 21 7.<br />
Pataiijali, I. 1. 2; 11. <strong>2.</strong> 24.<br />
N2 fyaSastra, XXIII, 66.<br />
Rtu,, IV. 15.<br />
Ibid.<br />
Megha., Uttaa, 2,<br />
Raghu,, XIV, 12,<br />
Upadhy%ya, B, S., p. 204,<br />
Megha., Uttara, 30.<br />
Ibid, 96,112; Raghu., VI, 33.<br />
~akuntalii, VIII.21.<br />
Malavika,, 111, 22,<br />
SakuntaEi, VII .2 1.<br />
Indian Historical Quarterly, IV, 1929, 303.<br />
K%d,, Kane, P,V,, paras. 131,133.<br />
Cowel, Hasacarita, p. 83<br />
Ibid, p. 7<strong>2.</strong><br />
Majumdar, History of Bengal, Vo1.1, p. 6 1 5.<br />
Ojha,O.H., Madhya Kalina Bhiiratiya Smsw, p.44.<br />
Vaidya., C.V., The History of Mediaval India, I. pp. 92, 93.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>375.
tam dhupGyana knSGnfam.. . Rap, 17.25; cESyd~a - Sobhifa, Sarin.<br />
pla.<br />
Ibid, 16.50.<br />
Megha, I. 3<strong>2.</strong><br />
Ibid.<br />
m, <strong>2.</strong> 375.<br />
Banerjee, IN., The Development og Hindu Iconography.<br />
Arnara, 11. 6. 97.<br />
Raghu, 17. 13.<br />
Agarwal. V. S., R;ijghat ke filauM b eka adhyayana, p. 25 1.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>375.<br />
Sat. Bra., XIII. 8. 4. 7.<br />
AV, XIV. 1.6.<br />
Ibid, IX. 6. 1 1.<br />
As. g. s~., III. 8. 1.<br />
AV., XIX. 44. 1.<br />
Arth. Sgs., Tr. by S2maS%stri, p. 79.<br />
Suiruta Cikitsgthna, XXIX. 4, Tr,. by Kunja Lal.<br />
IGd, ed. Kale, M. E., Bombay - 1928; p. 34.<br />
Harsa, Tr. by Cowell and Thomas, London - 1897; p. 198.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>388 - 90.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 385.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong>386.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 387.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 390<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 384.<br />
for the detail descrition of the ornaments mentioned in the Vedic<br />
literature, please see - Rai Govind Cahnd, Vaidika Kelina Abhusana.
mma. I. 58. 11; MLa71li. 13. 48. 32; 33.<br />
Amara, TI. 9.95.<br />
nbid, 11.9.96.<br />
Ibid, IT. 10. 33.<br />
Buddhac~ta of ASvaghosa, 11.37.<br />
Yuan Chwmg, p. 58.<br />
Jain, J. C., pp. 143-44.<br />
PraW nataka, I. 3.<br />
Agarwal, V. S., Ed. S2m. Adhy., p. 8.<br />
Madhyarna V2yoga, I. 4<strong>2.</strong><br />
Carudatta, I. 1.<br />
Kumara, VI. 6.<br />
K~abkra, I. 18.<br />
~ivi Jataka, Verse 3. E<br />
Dhammapada Atthakat~, I. p. 384.<br />
Agarwal, V. S., Kgd, Sam. Adhy., p. 110.<br />
Arth. Sas., tr. Gairola.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 18 - 19.<br />
Encyclopeadia Britanica, 20. p. 545.<br />
Jain, J, C., p. 144.<br />
Ibid<br />
~ibi Jataka, Verse 3. E<br />
~ a J&ika, ~ a Verse 5. ff.<br />
Ibid.<br />
Aganval, V. S. KAd. S%m. Adhy., p. 265.<br />
Arth. s~s., Tr. By Gairola, p. 265.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>17.
KumBrta, I. 42; III. 53; M.6; PX. 24; Agmral, V. S., #ad. Sam.<br />
Adhy., pp. 22,23,27,29,30,34,48,59,66-68,73, 80,97, 103, 107,<br />
112, 120, 130, 145, 147, 148, 188, 193, 194,223,225,242,251,<br />
259,294,306.<br />
Aganval, V. S., T I~I-s;~, p. 2 1 .<br />
Ibid.<br />
Ibid, p. 44.<br />
Jain, J. C., p. 143.<br />
Agmal, Kad. S2m. Ad~y., p. 23.<br />
Amara, ed. Rammathan, A. A, p. 440, V.33.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, 3.4<strong>2.</strong><br />
Jain, J. C., p. 144.<br />
Buddhacarita, <strong>2.</strong> 16.9<strong>2.</strong><br />
Artk Sas., Tr. By Galrola, p. 94.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>21.<br />
Vikrama, 111. 5.<br />
Agarwal, V. S., Harsa, p. 15.<br />
Kum2ra, VI. 4<strong>2.</strong><br />
Arth. s~s., 73. By Gairola, p. 94.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>21.<br />
Jain, J.C., p. 144.<br />
~ a Jgtaka, ~ a Before verse. 1.<br />
Pratirniin2t&a, V. 5.<br />
Buddhacarita, I. 1. 17.<br />
Arth. S~S., Tr. Gairola, p. 94.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>20.
Jain, J. C., p. 144.<br />
baa, <strong>2.</strong> 9. 2<strong>2.</strong><br />
,<strong>2.</strong> 20.<br />
Agarwal, V. S., Qd. Sam. Adhy., p. 67.<br />
Arth. h s., p. 95.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 21.<br />
Arttx. $as., Gabla, p. 94.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>20.<br />
S~SU, 7.30;&, 3. 4; Agwal, V. S., Ed., pp. 66, 101, 111, 148. 150;<br />
Hwa, pp. 15,58.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 15, 16.<br />
Agmal, V. S., Hapa, p. 58.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 15, 16.<br />
Rgvedic Culture, p. 2 16.<br />
Padmap~%bh@ka of hdraka, 25 (a).<br />
Megha, 11. <strong>2.</strong><br />
R.aghu, IX. 29.<br />
Agarwal, V. S ., Harsa, p. 136.<br />
Ibid, p. 83.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>397.<br />
Ibid.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 398.<br />
Ibid.<br />
Ibid.<br />
Ibid.<br />
Ibid.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong>399.
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 399.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 400.<br />
Mackay, E., Further E om at Mohenjodaro, pp. 524-26, 544.<br />
Ibid, pp. 261,273,277,278, 519 and 539.<br />
sat. Bra.,XIV. <strong>2.</strong> 1. 8.<br />
Bachofer, Early lndain Sculpture, platttcs 10. fT<br />
Bid.<br />
Bulletin of the Deccan College Reaserch Institute? hne; <strong>2.</strong> 66. E<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>410.<br />
Paqini &tidhy2yi, IV. 3. 65.<br />
Na~yaSasd.ra (Ns) XXIII. 16, 18,23,25,26 etc.<br />
Raghu, VI. 19,80; Kumara, VII. 94; gay V.5. ~ak., VII. 24.<br />
Kum2ra, VIII. 89; Ragh, V11.6; Megha,I. 67.<br />
Trip% R.P., Magha lqta SiSupdavadha Mdk~vya, I. 6,45, II. 19.<br />
111.7; X.6, XIII.9 etc.<br />
Harsacarita, ed. Fuhrer, A. A., pp. 52, 74; K2darnbari, ed. Kane. P. V.,<br />
para. 133, 171 and 191.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 409-410.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 410.<br />
YGas, pu., p. 465.<br />
For further details on us~is'a, see Dr. Motichadra, Bkrstiya.<br />
veiabhusa,<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong> 397,98,99.<br />
Marshall, J., Mohenjoho and Ind~ns Vally Civilization, I. 44.<br />
=ma, sundara, 10" and 1 5" sarga.<br />
Panini, IV. 3.65.<br />
Pwi, B. N., hdia in the time of PaMjali, p. 105.
NS,XXXIII. 10, 17, 19,20, 114,etc.<br />
Ibid, XXXII. 23,25,26.<br />
Raghu, III. 19, V.65, VTI. 27; Rtu. 111. 19.<br />
Ug2dhyaya, B. S., Indis in Ulidasa, p. 203.<br />
Harsa, ed. Fuhrer, A. A., p. 14,25,52, 149,190,192,207; Kgd. ed<br />
Kana., P. V.,par. 131, 145, 149, 174, 191, 194.<br />
AIRM, <strong>2.</strong> 401.<br />
Yas'as., p. 180 & p. 188.<br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong> 6. 103.<br />
Ibid, Sam. fib.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>40 1.<br />
Dasgupta, A. C., hchn Clay Sculptures, dig. 34. and 37.<br />
Das, Rgvedic Culture, p. 217.<br />
Journal American Oriental Society, 13.3 1 7 h.<br />
RV, V. 19.3.<br />
Ibid, I. 166. 40.<br />
Rama, luskinda, 9' sarga.<br />
RV, VIII. 47. 15; &ma, kiskind2 - 11" sarga, Ayodhya - 32nd sarga,<br />
Sundara - 9' saga<br />
,kth, sns., samaiastri, R., pp. 76-77.<br />
Ibid, XIII.2, 3 1,33.<br />
Updhyaya, B. S., India in Kalidasa, p. 20<strong>2.</strong><br />
Kad., Kane., P.V., para, 135, 137, 142, 153, 174, 189, 191,204.<br />
S~SU., X. 16, XVI. 84.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>407,408.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 407.
Abhi. cinB., 3. 324,325.<br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong> 3. 103.<br />
Agarwal, V. S., harsa, p. 189, pl. 24, fig. 8<strong>2.</strong><br />
Ibid, p. 197.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>407.408.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong> 409.<br />
Marshall, J., Mohenjodaro arid Indus Vally Civilization, plates<br />
CXLIV. 7,9, 1 1.<br />
%id, vol. 2, p. 345.<br />
Macdonnel, A. A, history of Sanskrit literature, p. 164.<br />
JAOS, 13. 137 fn.<br />
Bulletin of the Deccan College Research Institute, Pune, <strong>2.</strong> 85.<br />
PataEijali, MahabGsya, I. 1. 1, 7, 15.<br />
NS, XXIII. 18.<br />
Ibid, XXIII. 34,3 5.<br />
Raghu, VI. 14-53, VI. 73. XIX. 74; Rtu, IV. 3, VI. 7; Vikrana, I. 1,<br />
v.<strong>2.</strong><br />
Harsa, ed. Cowel, E. K., & Thomas, F. W., p. 116 -7.<br />
Kad, Kane, P. V., para. 174.<br />
~iiu, 111.7.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>40<strong>2.</strong><br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong>6. 107.<br />
Ibid, Sarbskja oka.<br />
Arm, 2,402,403.<br />
Ibid, <strong>2.</strong>40<strong>2.</strong><br />
Maokay, Further Exacavation at Mohenjodaro.<br />
Das, S. K, Economic History of Ancient Inda, p. 5<strong>2.</strong><br />
sat. Bra., 111. 5. 1. 6, XI. 8. 4. 7.
Rilrna, Sundara, 14th & 15th sarga (kundala), 1st and 1 t h (armlets),<br />
15th (Bangles).<br />
Vedic Index, Macdonnel and Keith, Vol.11. 223.<br />
Altekar, A S., Position of Women in Hindu Covilization, p. 334.<br />
Bullelin of the Deccan College Research Institute, <strong>2.</strong>87 flE<br />
Panini, IV. 3. 40.<br />
Ftu, I. 4. 6,II. 20,111. 26, IV. 4; Kumiira, I. 37,38.<br />
Harsa, Cowell & Thonlas, p. 23 1.<br />
S~SU, XVIII. 53.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>405.<br />
Amara, <strong>2.</strong> 6. 108.<br />
liaSas, purva, p. 8.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>405.<br />
Mackay, Futher Ex., Vol.11, plate. LLYII. 5; &W. 10.<br />
NS, XXTII. 39,40.<br />
Raghu, VIII. 63 (nGpura), XII. 33 ( kirikini ); Rtu, 111. 27<br />
(mwiniSlpma); Malavikii, p. 296 ( caraqalarikara)<br />
Harsa, Cowell and Thomas, p. 20<strong>2.</strong><br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>406.<br />
Marshall, J., Mohenjodaro and hdus Civil., Vol. 11. p. 528.<br />
<strong>ARM</strong>, <strong>2.</strong>404.<br />
Ibid.