Lava cascade in Thunderbolt Distributary of Labyrinth Cave system
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Selected <strong>Cave</strong>s and <strong>Lava</strong>-Tube Systems In and Near<br />
<strong>Lava</strong> Beds National Monument, California<br />
By Aaron C. Waters, julie M. Donnelly-Nolan, and Bruce W. Rogers<br />
Introduction<br />
<strong>Lava</strong> Beds National Monument (fig.<br />
1) lies on the north slope <strong>of</strong> the huge<br />
Medic<strong>in</strong>e Lake shield (fig. 2), a complex<br />
volcanic edifice <strong>of</strong> greater volume than<br />
the steep-sided Mount Shasta volcanic<br />
cone, which towers as a snowclad land<br />
mark 40 mi southwest <strong>of</strong> the monument<br />
(fig. 3).<br />
Much <strong>of</strong> the north and south flanks <strong>of</strong><br />
the Medic<strong>in</strong>e Lake shield were built from<br />
molten lava transmitted through lava<br />
tubes. These tubes formed beneath the<br />
congeal<strong>in</strong>g surface <strong>of</strong> basalt flows <strong>in</strong><br />
somewhat the same way that a brook may<br />
cont<strong>in</strong>ue to flow beneath a cover <strong>of</strong> its<br />
own w<strong>in</strong>ter ice. As molten lava emerges<br />
from a vent and flows downslope, congeal<strong>in</strong>g<br />
lava from the top and sides <strong>of</strong> the<br />
central channel <strong>of</strong>ten forms a bridge over<br />
the lava stream. The stick<strong>in</strong>g together <strong>of</strong><br />
bits <strong>of</strong> lava spatter and fragile lava crusts<br />
strengthens the bridge <strong>in</strong> the manner that<br />
th<strong>in</strong> crusts <strong>of</strong> float<strong>in</strong>g ice raft together to<br />
cover a brook dur<strong>in</strong>g early stages <strong>of</strong> a<br />
w<strong>in</strong>ter freeze. Eruption <strong>of</strong> basalt lava,<br />
however, is a much more violent and<br />
spasmodic process than the steady gather<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>of</strong> water that feeds a brook. If liquid<br />
lava stops ris<strong>in</strong>g from its source deep<br />
with<strong>in</strong> the earth, the still-molten lava<br />
mov<strong>in</strong>g beneath the crusted-over top <strong>of</strong> a<br />
lava flow will cont<strong>in</strong>ue to dra<strong>in</strong> downhill<br />
and may ultimately leave an open lavatube<br />
cave-<strong>of</strong>ten large enough for people<br />
to walk through. It is rare, however,<br />
to f<strong>in</strong>d such a simple scenario recorded<br />
<strong>in</strong>tact among the hundreds <strong>of</strong> lava-tube<br />
caves <strong>in</strong> the monument. Even before the<br />
top and walls <strong>of</strong> a lava flow have time to<br />
cool dur<strong>in</strong>g a pause <strong>in</strong> lava supply, a new<br />
and violent eruption <strong>of</strong> lava may refill the<br />
open tube, overflow its upper end, and<br />
spread a new lava flow beside or on top<br />
<strong>of</strong> the first flow. Even if the orig<strong>in</strong>al tube<br />
is large enough to conta<strong>in</strong> the renewed<br />
supply <strong>of</strong> lava, this tube must deliver the<br />
new lava beyond the end <strong>of</strong> its orig<strong>in</strong>al<br />
flow and thus the lava field extends<br />
farther and farther downslope. If the<br />
gradient <strong>of</strong> flow flattens, the tube may<br />
subdivide <strong>in</strong>to a number <strong>of</strong> smaller distributaries,<br />
which spread laterally over<br />
the more gently slop<strong>in</strong>g ground.<br />
With<strong>in</strong> <strong>Lava</strong> Beds National Monument,<br />
most lava tubes are found with<strong>in</strong><br />
the basalt <strong>of</strong> Mammoth Crater (figs. 1<br />
and 4). Complicated and <strong>in</strong>tertw<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />
lava-tube <strong>system</strong>s orig<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g from<br />
Mammoth Crater and other vents have<br />
built a broad fan <strong>of</strong> complexly <strong>in</strong>terf<strong>in</strong>ger<strong>in</strong>g<br />
lava flows that form the northeast<br />
perimeter <strong>of</strong> the Medic<strong>in</strong>e Lake shield.<br />
Most <strong>of</strong> this lava was delivered through<br />
lava tubes. Some tubes conveyed lava<br />
underground 15- 20 mi from their sources.<br />
Nevertheless, today one cannot<br />
walk for a distance <strong>of</strong> even 4 mi with<strong>in</strong><br />
any one lava tube. Large parts <strong>of</strong> the<br />
ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong> most lava tubes have fallen <strong>in</strong>,<br />
hid<strong>in</strong>g the floor <strong>of</strong> the tube under huge<br />
piles <strong>of</strong> breakdown or angular broken<br />
rock, <strong>of</strong>ten stacked so tightly that access<br />
to both upstream and downstream portions<br />
<strong>of</strong> the tube is closed. In some<br />
places, however, collapse <strong>of</strong> the tube's<br />
ro<strong>of</strong> has provided a large entrance <strong>in</strong>to<br />
the lava tube through which one can walk<br />
with ease. In some collapse piles where<br />
access appears to be lack<strong>in</strong>g, one can<br />
search the maze <strong>of</strong> tumbled blocks and<br />
perhaps f<strong>in</strong>d a crawlhole <strong>in</strong>to a lava tube.<br />
Open<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong>to caves may be detected by<br />
notic<strong>in</strong>g the runways <strong>of</strong> small animals or<br />
test<strong>in</strong>g the direction <strong>of</strong> air flow. On<br />
sparkl<strong>in</strong>gly clear, very cold w<strong>in</strong>ter days,<br />
open<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong>to underground caverns will<br />
emit a white fog, just as one's exhaled<br />
breath does on such a day.<br />
Holes <strong>in</strong> the landscape surface<br />
formed by failure <strong>of</strong> part <strong>of</strong> a lava tube's<br />
ro<strong>of</strong> are called collapse pits, breakdowns,<br />
or more commonly, collapse<br />
trenches (see maps 2, 5, 10, and 20;<br />
plates 1, 2, 4, and 6). While walk<strong>in</strong>g<br />
across the relatively flat surface <strong>of</strong> the<br />
lava flows, you are seldom aware <strong>of</strong> their<br />
presence until a large and deep hole<br />
yawns at your feet. Some small breakdowns<br />
are dangerous death traps for<br />
animals. Unwary humans have met a<br />
similar fate (see map 12, pl. 4, and the<br />
"Skull <strong>Cave</strong>" section).<br />
Once underground with<strong>in</strong> a lava tube<br />
you may f<strong>in</strong>d your way impeded or<br />
blocked by a variety <strong>of</strong> features. Piles <strong>of</strong><br />
loose rock that have peeled <strong>of</strong>f the ceil<strong>in</strong>g<br />
and walls <strong>of</strong> the tube may clutter the floor<br />
<strong>of</strong> the cave and slow your pace. Where<br />
no fallen blocks are present, the smooth<br />
to ropy (pahoehoe) surface <strong>of</strong> the lava on<br />
which you walk may change gradually to<br />
a very rough surface composed <strong>of</strong> bubble-filled<br />
loose blocks <strong>of</strong> a sp<strong>in</strong>y (aa)<br />
lava. In some cases it may even completely<br />
block the cave entrance. The<br />
words pahoehoe and aa come from the<br />
Hawaiian language. Most lava tubes are<br />
found <strong>in</strong> pahoehoe lava (e.g. Greeley,<br />
1971a; Harter, 1971), but occasionally<br />
they occur <strong>in</strong> aa lava (Guest and others,<br />
1980).<br />
Geologists recognize several varieties<br />
<strong>of</strong> pahoehoe (MacDonald, 1953;<br />
Wentworth and MacDonald, 1953). The<br />
smooth but th<strong>in</strong> and partly congealed<br />
sk<strong>in</strong> on the surface <strong>of</strong> the molten lava<br />
may become wr<strong>in</strong>kled and twisted <strong>in</strong>to<br />
Introduction