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Lava cascade in Thunderbolt Distributary of Labyrinth Cave system

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Selected <strong>Cave</strong>s and <strong>Lava</strong>-Tube Systems In and Near<br />

<strong>Lava</strong> Beds National Monument, California<br />

By Aaron C. Waters, julie M. Donnelly-Nolan, and Bruce W. Rogers<br />

Introduction<br />

<strong>Lava</strong> Beds National Monument (fig.<br />

1) lies on the north slope <strong>of</strong> the huge<br />

Medic<strong>in</strong>e Lake shield (fig. 2), a complex<br />

volcanic edifice <strong>of</strong> greater volume than<br />

the steep-sided Mount Shasta volcanic<br />

cone, which towers as a snowclad land<br />

mark 40 mi southwest <strong>of</strong> the monument<br />

(fig. 3).<br />

Much <strong>of</strong> the north and south flanks <strong>of</strong><br />

the Medic<strong>in</strong>e Lake shield were built from<br />

molten lava transmitted through lava<br />

tubes. These tubes formed beneath the<br />

congeal<strong>in</strong>g surface <strong>of</strong> basalt flows <strong>in</strong><br />

somewhat the same way that a brook may<br />

cont<strong>in</strong>ue to flow beneath a cover <strong>of</strong> its<br />

own w<strong>in</strong>ter ice. As molten lava emerges<br />

from a vent and flows downslope, congeal<strong>in</strong>g<br />

lava from the top and sides <strong>of</strong> the<br />

central channel <strong>of</strong>ten forms a bridge over<br />

the lava stream. The stick<strong>in</strong>g together <strong>of</strong><br />

bits <strong>of</strong> lava spatter and fragile lava crusts<br />

strengthens the bridge <strong>in</strong> the manner that<br />

th<strong>in</strong> crusts <strong>of</strong> float<strong>in</strong>g ice raft together to<br />

cover a brook dur<strong>in</strong>g early stages <strong>of</strong> a<br />

w<strong>in</strong>ter freeze. Eruption <strong>of</strong> basalt lava,<br />

however, is a much more violent and<br />

spasmodic process than the steady gather<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>of</strong> water that feeds a brook. If liquid<br />

lava stops ris<strong>in</strong>g from its source deep<br />

with<strong>in</strong> the earth, the still-molten lava<br />

mov<strong>in</strong>g beneath the crusted-over top <strong>of</strong> a<br />

lava flow will cont<strong>in</strong>ue to dra<strong>in</strong> downhill<br />

and may ultimately leave an open lavatube<br />

cave-<strong>of</strong>ten large enough for people<br />

to walk through. It is rare, however,<br />

to f<strong>in</strong>d such a simple scenario recorded<br />

<strong>in</strong>tact among the hundreds <strong>of</strong> lava-tube<br />

caves <strong>in</strong> the monument. Even before the<br />

top and walls <strong>of</strong> a lava flow have time to<br />

cool dur<strong>in</strong>g a pause <strong>in</strong> lava supply, a new<br />

and violent eruption <strong>of</strong> lava may refill the<br />

open tube, overflow its upper end, and<br />

spread a new lava flow beside or on top<br />

<strong>of</strong> the first flow. Even if the orig<strong>in</strong>al tube<br />

is large enough to conta<strong>in</strong> the renewed<br />

supply <strong>of</strong> lava, this tube must deliver the<br />

new lava beyond the end <strong>of</strong> its orig<strong>in</strong>al<br />

flow and thus the lava field extends<br />

farther and farther downslope. If the<br />

gradient <strong>of</strong> flow flattens, the tube may<br />

subdivide <strong>in</strong>to a number <strong>of</strong> smaller distributaries,<br />

which spread laterally over<br />

the more gently slop<strong>in</strong>g ground.<br />

With<strong>in</strong> <strong>Lava</strong> Beds National Monument,<br />

most lava tubes are found with<strong>in</strong><br />

the basalt <strong>of</strong> Mammoth Crater (figs. 1<br />

and 4). Complicated and <strong>in</strong>tertw<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />

lava-tube <strong>system</strong>s orig<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g from<br />

Mammoth Crater and other vents have<br />

built a broad fan <strong>of</strong> complexly <strong>in</strong>terf<strong>in</strong>ger<strong>in</strong>g<br />

lava flows that form the northeast<br />

perimeter <strong>of</strong> the Medic<strong>in</strong>e Lake shield.<br />

Most <strong>of</strong> this lava was delivered through<br />

lava tubes. Some tubes conveyed lava<br />

underground 15- 20 mi from their sources.<br />

Nevertheless, today one cannot<br />

walk for a distance <strong>of</strong> even 4 mi with<strong>in</strong><br />

any one lava tube. Large parts <strong>of</strong> the<br />

ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>of</strong> most lava tubes have fallen <strong>in</strong>,<br />

hid<strong>in</strong>g the floor <strong>of</strong> the tube under huge<br />

piles <strong>of</strong> breakdown or angular broken<br />

rock, <strong>of</strong>ten stacked so tightly that access<br />

to both upstream and downstream portions<br />

<strong>of</strong> the tube is closed. In some<br />

places, however, collapse <strong>of</strong> the tube's<br />

ro<strong>of</strong> has provided a large entrance <strong>in</strong>to<br />

the lava tube through which one can walk<br />

with ease. In some collapse piles where<br />

access appears to be lack<strong>in</strong>g, one can<br />

search the maze <strong>of</strong> tumbled blocks and<br />

perhaps f<strong>in</strong>d a crawlhole <strong>in</strong>to a lava tube.<br />

Open<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong>to caves may be detected by<br />

notic<strong>in</strong>g the runways <strong>of</strong> small animals or<br />

test<strong>in</strong>g the direction <strong>of</strong> air flow. On<br />

sparkl<strong>in</strong>gly clear, very cold w<strong>in</strong>ter days,<br />

open<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong>to underground caverns will<br />

emit a white fog, just as one's exhaled<br />

breath does on such a day.<br />

Holes <strong>in</strong> the landscape surface<br />

formed by failure <strong>of</strong> part <strong>of</strong> a lava tube's<br />

ro<strong>of</strong> are called collapse pits, breakdowns,<br />

or more commonly, collapse<br />

trenches (see maps 2, 5, 10, and 20;<br />

plates 1, 2, 4, and 6). While walk<strong>in</strong>g<br />

across the relatively flat surface <strong>of</strong> the<br />

lava flows, you are seldom aware <strong>of</strong> their<br />

presence until a large and deep hole<br />

yawns at your feet. Some small breakdowns<br />

are dangerous death traps for<br />

animals. Unwary humans have met a<br />

similar fate (see map 12, pl. 4, and the<br />

"Skull <strong>Cave</strong>" section).<br />

Once underground with<strong>in</strong> a lava tube<br />

you may f<strong>in</strong>d your way impeded or<br />

blocked by a variety <strong>of</strong> features. Piles <strong>of</strong><br />

loose rock that have peeled <strong>of</strong>f the ceil<strong>in</strong>g<br />

and walls <strong>of</strong> the tube may clutter the floor<br />

<strong>of</strong> the cave and slow your pace. Where<br />

no fallen blocks are present, the smooth<br />

to ropy (pahoehoe) surface <strong>of</strong> the lava on<br />

which you walk may change gradually to<br />

a very rough surface composed <strong>of</strong> bubble-filled<br />

loose blocks <strong>of</strong> a sp<strong>in</strong>y (aa)<br />

lava. In some cases it may even completely<br />

block the cave entrance. The<br />

words pahoehoe and aa come from the<br />

Hawaiian language. Most lava tubes are<br />

found <strong>in</strong> pahoehoe lava (e.g. Greeley,<br />

1971a; Harter, 1971), but occasionally<br />

they occur <strong>in</strong> aa lava (Guest and others,<br />

1980).<br />

Geologists recognize several varieties<br />

<strong>of</strong> pahoehoe (MacDonald, 1953;<br />

Wentworth and MacDonald, 1953). The<br />

smooth but th<strong>in</strong> and partly congealed<br />

sk<strong>in</strong> on the surface <strong>of</strong> the molten lava<br />

may become wr<strong>in</strong>kled and twisted <strong>in</strong>to<br />

Introduction

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