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JANUARY 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32<br />
K.I.S.S. —<br />
Boatyard<br />
Technology<br />
Mission accomplished,<br />
with a little creative<br />
help. The rudder is<br />
back in place, and we<br />
stopped the slop!<br />
That Works<br />
by Betty Fries<br />
Never in my wildest imaginings would I have believed that a quart bottle of acetone,<br />
a hunk of foam rubber, and a plastic mailing tube for charts would be<br />
the major technological tools for taking the slop out of our rudder sleeve, but<br />
that’s exactly what happened in the boatyard this year. Let me explain.<br />
Our 1989 Catalina 42, Forever Young, had an irregularly worn rudder sleeve —<br />
enough so that with each strong wave running under the boat there was a distinct<br />
thump. Very disturbing.<br />
Catalinas are built with an entirely fiberglass rudder sleeve with the packing flange at<br />
the top of the sleeve. The rudder shaft hangs from an axle that pivots on two wheels in its<br />
house just under the sole behind the steering pedestal. The manufacturer faxed us diagrams<br />
of the two methods they recommended for fixing this type of problem. The first was<br />
to slide thin sheets of mylar into the sleeve around the shaft until the slop was sufficiently<br />
reduced. This didn’t seem very permanent to us, so we opted for the second method<br />
which was to pour epoxy down the sleeve around the shaft and fill in the extra space.<br />
First, the rudder was dropped and the shaft was washed again and again with an<br />
acid solution, then wet sanded with a 200-grit sandpaper to remove all biological<br />
matter and bits of fiberglass. Pitting was smoothed by filling with epoxy and<br />
microfining. The shaft was then given three coats of maximum quick-release mold<br />
wax so the epoxy would not bond with the shaft and freeze it in the sleeve!<br />
The rudder was put back into the boat and aligned in the proper position. Inside<br />
the bilge, the packing flange at the top of the sleeve did not allow enough room for<br />
the epoxy so three holes were drilled through the sides of the sleeve. Putty was used<br />
at the base of the sleeve to keep the epoxy from running out. A collar of stiff paper<br />
and tape was constructed at the base of the holes to act as a funnel. It took about<br />
three hours to coax the epoxy through the holes; not a fun time for the person<br />
crouched down in the bilge beside the sleeve.<br />
—Continued on next page<br />
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