GRENADA - Caribbean Compass

JULY 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22
The island of Tobago is generally considered the quieter
half of Trinidad & Tobago and a popular tourist
destination. For yachtspeople, it offers a taste of the traditional
Caribbean and a refreshing getaway from boatyard
chores. For locals it is a place to escape the commotion
and hubbub of Trinidad, especially during long
holidays such as the Carnival and Easter weekends.
Its popularity has increased by the introduction of
more transport options. It is easily accessible from
Trinidad by air or by ferry, the latter of which is slower
but cheaper. About six years ago the trip by ferry used
to take up to six hours. Currently there is a fleet of fast
ferries which are outfitted with cinemas, restaurants
and bars, that make the trip to the sister isle in
approximately two hours. If you don’t want to sail
there on your own boat, this is an attractive option.
Most of the activities in Tobago happen in and
around the capital city of Scarborough on the south of
the island. However, when I visit Tobago I like to stay
at the other end of the island, away from it all in the
village of Charlotteville.
On the way to Charlotteville you will pass through
the village of Speyside, which is where you want to go
to visit the island of Little Tobago, also known as “Bird
of Paradise” Island. This tiny island, with an area of
101 hectares, is a wildlife sanctuary and home to the
Red-Billed Tropicbirds. Owning to its conservationist
nature, one has to seek permission from the Forestry
Division to visit the island. If you go with an authorized
tour guide they will advise you about the regulations.
There is a network of trails on the island for hiking.
Little Tobago has a rich history and was once used as
a meeting point by the Caribs during the 17th and 18th
centuries. It was given its second name because in 1918,
William Ingram, an avid bird lover, purchased the island
and released 24 pairs of Birds of Paradise (Paradisia
apoda) acquired from Aru Island, New Guinea. From the
jetty you can see Goat Island, which was the former
home of the ornithologist James Bond, who wrote the
well-known field guide, Birds of the West Indies.
Another site to visit on the way to Charlotteville is
ALL ASHORE…
The
Quieter
Side of
TOBAGO
by Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal
Above: Take a short scenic hike from Charlotteville
and you might have Pirate’s Bay all to yourself
Below: The view from Flagstaff Hill, including the
distinctive London Bridge, well known among
scuba divers as a drift dive
Flagstaff Hill. From this vantage point you can see some
of the tiny offshore islands such as St. Giles Island and
a rock arch called London Bridge, which is popular with
divers as the currents in that area pull you through the
arch. Note that some of Tobago’s diving spots are for
experienced divers; guides are available.
Charlotteville is a tiny fishing village on the north
coast, about an hour’s drive from Scarborough. It may
look as though time forgot this area but it is outfitted
with the basics: a gas station, library, police station, two
mini-marts (one of which doubles as the post office),
community centre, of course a fish depot, and a couple
of restaurants. There is also a small internet café and
shops where you can buy music CDs and movies on
DVDs. There are stalls offering handmade souvenirs,
such as jewelry and intricate carvings of the local wildlife
on the backs of dried calabashes (gourds).
There is no shortage of places to stay on this side of
the island. There is also no shortage of places to eat.
As anywhere, it is always cheaper to cook your own
meals, but if you want to have the “dining out” experience,
I would recommend Sharon & Pheb’s restaurant
in Charlotteville. If you are looking for authentic local
food, this is place. You get a little bit of everything on
your plate — for example, macaroni pie, baked chicken
or fish, potato salad, fresh salad, and the list goes
on — and it is all equally tasty.
If you are up to exploring the land, visit Pirate’s Bay.
You can drive if you have a 4x4 vehicle, but it makes
a pleasant short hike. Walk straight through
Charlotteville and follow the dirt road at the end up a
hill. Along the way you get some great views of Man-O-
War Bay. At the end you are greeted by a long stairway.
This will lead to one of the most beautiful bays (in
my opinion) on the island. It has a wide expanse of
sand and calm waters and the best part is that it is not
crowded, except for the occasional weekend party. If
you visit during the week you might have the entire
bay to yourself — now that is truly paradise! It is a
good location for snorkeling: a small coral island
located in the bay is home to a variety of corals and
other sea life including moray eels, sea urchins, bristle
worms, Bluehead Wrasses and Sergeant Majors.
If you head in the opposite direction, you can visit
Fort Campbelton, which is located between
Charlotteville and Hermitage Bay. There is an old
cocoa house that stands along the way, a silent
reminder of the days of the vast cocoa estates that
once covered both Tobago and Trinidad. This industry
is currently undergoing resurgence.
There are many ancient structures on the island as a
result of the island’s turbulent history as it changed
hands many times, at various times becoming a colony
of the British, French and Dutch. The best-known of
these structures are forts: for example, Fort George in
Scarborough, which is a museum, and Fort James,
which has a “mystery tombstone” whose inscription
has baffled generations of visitors. Ruins on the beach
at Campbelton’s Bay that consist of two rooms might
not have belonged to a fort, as one might first think.
The thick walls of this structure suggest that at one
time it might have been used to store gunpowder or
house prisoners.
This part of the island may be quiet, but there is a
lot to see and do. So I hope when you visit our sister
isle you will not stick to the “tourist” places but get out
and explore the quieter side of Tobago.
Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal is a doctoral student at the
Department of Life Sciences at the University of the
West Indies’ St. Augustine, Trinidad campus.