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May 2009 - Caribbean Compass

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DIFFERENT BOATS FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS BY NORMAN FARIA<br />

RED (LUG) SAILS<br />

IN THE SUNSET<br />

It was a beautiful, if unusual, sight: a thick-looking, plumb-stemmed replica of a<br />

19th century lug-sailed British fishing boat beating up into Barbados’ Carlisle Bay<br />

in front of a dying sun.<br />

It was the Veracity with proud owner Marcus Rowden and his companion Jess<br />

Harris on board.<br />

A few days later, I rowed out to them and learned the remarkable story of how this<br />

fine-looking replica was built and also about the fascinating history of that particular<br />

working craft.<br />

It is called a pilchard driver, and hundreds of them sailed out of fishing ports on<br />

England’s southwest coast in their heyday from 1750 through the early 1900s.<br />

Veracity was actually the name of one of them (registration number PZ111), built in<br />

1902 at Mousehole Harbour near Penzance by a staunch Methodist (hence the<br />

name), Paul Humphreys.<br />

Marcus and Jess, cruising the <strong>Caribbean</strong> aboard the replica ‘pilchard<br />

driver’ fishing boat Veracity<br />

Marcus explained that the plans were obtained from the Maritime Museum. He<br />

faithfully followed them, the minor changes including raising the freeboard by one<br />

foot to give more room inside the cabin. It took him one year to build the replica in<br />

the Dartmouth area. He used one-and-a-half-inch-thick larch for planking, copper-<br />

fastened over oak frames. Original boats used mainly pitch pine or red pine on oak<br />

with fastenings being wooden or iron spikes. There were two versions: one, like the<br />

Veracity, was 30 feet LOA, while larger models up to 60 feet were also built according<br />

to the owners’ finances. The smaller one, called a Tosher, could be built on the beach<br />

in three months. The beach also supplied the stones for internal ballast — just like<br />

beaches in the <strong>Caribbean</strong> did for the working schooners here.<br />

The pilchard drivers had to be fast. As with most fishing boats, they had to get to<br />

the market at certain times — the tides also played a part — and catch the vendors.<br />

Hence the 1400-square-foot spread of canvas on the dipping lug sails to get them<br />

out to the fishing banks and back on broad reaches from the prevailing westerly<br />

winds. Marcus said the smaller boats could get up to six knots. Sails were usually<br />

reddish-brown from oak tanning and boiled linseed oil. A 30-footer could carry five<br />

tonnes of pilchard, some of which found their way into Italian markets (probably in<br />

brine-filled casks).<br />

By the 1920s, as Marcus explained, the pilchards were gone. The boats rotted<br />

away. Some were preserved and are raced every summer in a vibrant owners’ association<br />

to which Marcus belongs. Jess’s mother has a 42-foot version, the Lorraine,<br />

which she crewed and virtually grew up on. (See the website www.veracitylugger.<br />

co.uk for photos.)<br />

Like most working craft of that era, the pilchard luggers didn’t have engines.<br />

Veracity (the replica) didn’t when it was first launched in 2004. When visiting<br />

Portugal on the present trip, Marcus installed an electric<br />

motor made by the Lynch Motor Company in<br />

Devon. It develops 30 horsepower and leaves the boat’s<br />

interior spacious and free of diesel fumes. The eight<br />

batteries also add to the three tonnes internal ballast.<br />

Another two tonnes are on the outside in the keel.<br />

Marcus, who is from Brixham where another type of<br />

fishing boat — the famous Brixham trawler — evolved,<br />

said he and Jess left England last year in August. They<br />

visited Senegal and Gambia before calling at the<br />

Canaries and crossing the Atlantic to Barbados.<br />

Like some of the original builders who may have gotten<br />

fittings from wrecked craft, Marcus used a lot of<br />

recycled equipment. The big wood-and-coal-burning<br />

AGA stove in the cabin came from a Scottish farm. The<br />

Aries self-steering gear was acquired, like some other<br />

fittings, from a second-hand store. Marcus, who worked<br />

in boatyards, also fabricated some of the metal fittings<br />

from scrap metal.<br />

It was indeed a pleasure to speak with Marcus and<br />

Jess about this project in keeping alive a part of the<br />

rich cultural traditions the British fishing culture. They<br />

asked to be kept informed of a similar project in<br />

Barbados to build a replica of a traditional Bajan<br />

(gunter-rigged with internal ballast) sailing flying fish<br />

boat of the 1940s and ’50s which itself was influenced<br />

by British vernacular design.<br />

NORMAN FARIA (2)<br />

The Beauty of Steel<br />

From the shore, the wooden mast gave it away.<br />

The dark-hulled sloop out in Barbados’s Carlisle Bay anchorage must be 1950s<br />

vintage, I thought. Which boat built these days would have such a spar?<br />

And the curving sheer and spoon bow also spoke of another era.<br />

Yes, the Zeevonk, as it is named, was made in 1954 in the Netherlands by the<br />

Huisman firm. This was the smaller firm — not the one making luxury boats,<br />

explained its owner Wouter De Boer. And Zeevonk was made of steel.<br />

“Is it a class boat? How many were made? And how do you keep it so well maintained?”<br />

I asked Wouter.<br />

“It was a one-off. The first owner worked for the Dutch airline KLM and he apparently<br />

had access to materials like steel plate. He seemed to love it because he sailed<br />

it around the Baltic Sea until 1983 when he passed it on to his daughter and I<br />

bought it from her in 1991,” he answered.<br />

He continued: “The builders did a good job but with all metal boats there is a certain<br />

amount of chipping and painting to be done. There was a big refit in the 1970s.”<br />

Wouter said he had rearranged the cabin layout. Most of the interior wood was<br />

still good, but he also used some recycled oak from a bed frame he found in a<br />

garbage skip.<br />

The original mast and boom are made of white spruce from the US. The original<br />

galvanised turnbuckles and other fittings however were replaced with stainless steel<br />

gear. The first engine was a British-made Coventry Victor but there is now an<br />

18-horsepower Yanmar, put in four years ago.<br />

And the name hasn’t been changed either. It means “sea spark” or “phosphorescence”.<br />

The Netherlands has a deep tradition of boat and ship building in steel. “We were<br />

smart in Holland. We were making steel barges around 1900. It made sense in many<br />

ways, such as having more space inside, and lasting longer than wood,” said<br />

Wouter.<br />

Wouter, 37, says he too loves the boat. “There’s the beauty of the compound curves<br />

in this type of boat and it really sails well, too,” he says. He made the crossing from<br />

the Canaries in 22 days, a fairly good passage.<br />

Sometimes he has to haul Zeevonk out in yards and head back to his hometown of<br />

Amsterdam to work. Wouter plans to see some of the <strong>Caribbean</strong> before moving on.<br />

A spoon bow and sweet sheer distinguish Wouter De Boer’s 55-year-old,<br />

steel-hulled beauty<br />

MAY <strong>2009</strong> CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

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