You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
MAY <strong>2009</strong> CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22<br />
D<br />
espite some unusual dramas there in recent<br />
months, a cruise through the Leeward<br />
Islands proved a typical mix of good news,<br />
bad news, and the ever-lovin’ status quo…<br />
St. Martin Fees<br />
In St. Martin in January, I find everyone is abuzz<br />
when the port authority in Marigot decides to put a fee<br />
on boats anchored there. There is talk of a mass exodus,<br />
but when I sail from Anguilla over to Marigot a<br />
few days later, it seems pretty normal with plenty of<br />
yachts around. It turns out not to be that onerous.<br />
You can navigate into the Marigot side of Simpson Bay<br />
Lagoon from the Dutch side and thus avoid paying<br />
more than the 5 Euro service charge. If anything,<br />
regulations have eased up now that the Customs procedures<br />
have been taken over by the Port Authority.<br />
You can anchor anywhere on the French side and take<br />
a bus over to Marigot to clear. The Captainerie at<br />
Radisson Marina can also clear you in.<br />
On the Dutch side, the fees are not unreasonable for<br />
a short stay, but are punitive for the long-term visitors,<br />
so they stay away. At least credit cards are now accepted<br />
for fee payments, which is a big improvement.<br />
Nevis News<br />
I am always ambivalent about development. At first<br />
I really did not like the Four Seasons Hotel in Nevis.<br />
But over the years I saw how many jobs it brought and<br />
how much it helped the local community, so became<br />
adjusted to realizing it was a good idea. This year the<br />
Four Seasons Hotel is closed after being once more<br />
inundated with seas from a hurricane. Having a hotel<br />
right on the beach looks great on brochures but has<br />
its downside, especially when its foundations are<br />
below sea level. While clearly everyone in Nevis would<br />
like to see it rebuilt (it is worth about 700 jobs to the<br />
island) I cannot see that this will be particularly easy<br />
to achieve. The situation is complicated: Four Seasons<br />
is just the management company; another company<br />
owns the real estate. Pinney’s Beach also looked a little<br />
sad as most of the coconut trees were dying from a<br />
bacterial infection.<br />
On the other hand the Port Authority moorings,<br />
DECK VIEW FROM TI KANOT BY CHRIS DOYLE<br />
Notes<br />
from the<br />
Northern<br />
Islands<br />
Above: The English Harbour<br />
area in Antigua saw a new<br />
yacht race and improved<br />
security this year<br />
Left: Anchoring fees imposed<br />
in French St. Martin in<br />
January <strong>2009</strong> might or might<br />
not be suspended, but in any<br />
case they can be avoided<br />
while a little overbearing to the eye, are very strong,<br />
convenient and reasonably priced. In addition, the<br />
popular beach bar Double Deuce now has WiFi beaming<br />
out to the nearby moorings, making Nevis attractive<br />
to those of us who are wedded to our computers.<br />
Antigua Anomaly<br />
“Murder in Antigua!” — the news spreads fast across<br />
the water. A superyacht skipper murdered right in the<br />
English Harbour area. Once again there were stories of<br />
a mass exodus, but when I sail in there seem to be<br />
more yachts than ever. Murders often occur in places<br />
you would never expect them; I am immediately<br />
reminded of the murder of four on a yacht in Barbuda<br />
some years before. At the time I could not imagine a<br />
less likely event.<br />
—Continued on next page<br />
Although the mooring field makes the waters off Nevis look like a municipal car park, they are strong<br />
and reasonably priced<br />
ALL PHOTOS: CHRIS DOYLE
Change language