Sans Titre, 2014, oil on canvas, 24 x 30 cm by ETEL ADNAN - Courtesy of Galerie Lelong, Photo by Fabrice Gibert Goodbye, Thea Stavroula By Lisa Suhair Majaj She died at 94. There are worse ages at which to leave this earth, but that doesn’t dispel <strong>the</strong> sadness. How many changes did she see <strong>in</strong> her life? How many wars? When she was a girl, <strong>the</strong> quickest way <strong>from</strong> Limassol to Paphos was by boat. People stayed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir villages, grew <strong>the</strong>ir own food. Now <strong>the</strong>re are highways, <strong>and</strong> cars, <strong>and</strong> smart phones, <strong>and</strong> all sorts of o<strong>the</strong>r th<strong>in</strong>gs she probably never dreamed of—though some th<strong>in</strong>gs, like wars <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir after-effects, don’t seem to change much. She lived <strong>in</strong> Episkopi, a mixed village, populated by both Greek Cypriots <strong>and</strong> Turkish Cypriots until <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>vasion that split 7
<strong>the</strong> country. She raised three sons, los<strong>in</strong>g a daughter at <strong>the</strong> age of four. My husb<strong>and</strong> tells me she always wore <strong>the</strong> H<strong>and</strong> of Fatima, at <strong>the</strong> time considered a dist<strong>in</strong>ctively Muslim symbol, next to <strong>the</strong> cross around her neck. That doesn’t surprise me. From <strong>the</strong> first time I met her, as I struggled to f<strong>in</strong>d enough Greek to thank her for her coffee, her smil<strong>in</strong>g hospitality, it was clear that she had a large, embrac<strong>in</strong>g spirit. Whenever we visited <strong>the</strong>re were always stray cats she was feed<strong>in</strong>g, children <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> garden, a bowl of sweets for passers by. And everyone passed by. Her house was at <strong>the</strong> heart of <strong>the</strong> village, right across <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> church, down <strong>the</strong> street <strong>from</strong> <strong>the</strong> archeological museum. Neighbors, relatives, outsiders—all were welcome. She taught <strong>the</strong> young archeologists stay<strong>in</strong>g at <strong>the</strong> museum how to embroider, unperturbed by <strong>the</strong> lack of a common language. There was no better place for coffee than perched on one of <strong>the</strong> chunks of ancient Roman columns scattered outside her gate, breath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> stunn<strong>in</strong>g vista of <strong>the</strong> coastl<strong>in</strong>e spread out below, <strong>the</strong> sense of timelessness. But time never stops. The day Thea Stavroula died, a massive s<strong>and</strong>storm struck, blanket<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong> for days <strong>in</strong> a cloud of dust so thick it was impossible to take a deep breath. Temperatures soared as <strong>the</strong> sky pressed down, gritty <strong>and</strong> clotted. Even <strong>the</strong> sweat rivulets roll<strong>in</strong>g down my sk<strong>in</strong> felt muddy. On <strong>the</strong> day of <strong>the</strong> funeral, we braved <strong>the</strong> brownish haze to drive <strong>from</strong> Nicosia to Episkopi. We parked outside of her small, familiar house, <strong>the</strong> usual coastal vista shrouded <strong>in</strong> dust, <strong>and</strong> crossed <strong>the</strong> street to <strong>the</strong> church. Family <strong>and</strong> neighbors were already ga<strong>the</strong>r<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> oppressively hot stone-paved yard, <strong>the</strong>ir black cloth<strong>in</strong>g a rem<strong>in</strong>der of why we were <strong>the</strong>re. Inside, <strong>the</strong> church was dim <strong>and</strong> slightly cooler. I slipped some co<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> donation box <strong>and</strong> lit three c<strong>and</strong>les: one for Stavroula, one for my parents, who died decades ago, <strong>and</strong> one for those still engaged <strong>in</strong> this battle called life. Then <strong>the</strong> chant<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> Orthodox service began, <strong>the</strong> musicality of <strong>the</strong> priest’s voice carry<strong>in</strong>g me out of my thoughts as <strong>the</strong> c<strong>and</strong>les flickered. Soon enough <strong>the</strong> service was over—how quickly we mark passage <strong>from</strong> this earth!—<strong>and</strong> mourners ga<strong>the</strong>red aga<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> churchyard, wait<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>the</strong> coff<strong>in</strong> to be carried out. At <strong>the</strong> gate of <strong>the</strong> yard I noticed two t<strong>in</strong>y, ancient women clutch<strong>in</strong>g each o<strong>the</strong>r’s h<strong>and</strong>s for support. One, I saw with a thrum of sadness, wore mismatched slippers on her feet. Later my sister-<strong>in</strong>-law told me that after <strong>the</strong> 1974 Turkish <strong>in</strong>vasion, when refugees took shelter <strong>in</strong> Episkopi, Thea Stravroula had been <strong>the</strong> first to help <strong>the</strong>se two women, giv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>m olives, that staple of village sustenance. Decades later, <strong>the</strong>y had come to say goodbye. We proceeded to <strong>the</strong> cemetery, where <strong>the</strong> open coff<strong>in</strong> required confrontation. I hardly recognized Stavroula <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> body that lay face up to <strong>the</strong> sky. Age <strong>and</strong> illness had replaced her calm, robust demeanor with a startl<strong>in</strong>gly gaunt profile; her eyes were no longer smil<strong>in</strong>g, but closed. This was my son’s first funeral. He watched carefully as <strong>the</strong>y lowered <strong>the</strong> open coff<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> grave with ropes, poured oil on <strong>the</strong> body, scattered earth, <strong>and</strong> r<strong>in</strong>sed <strong>the</strong> shovel off with water over <strong>the</strong> coff<strong>in</strong>, mix<strong>in</strong>g earth’s elements with her human rema<strong>in</strong>s. Then <strong>the</strong> coff<strong>in</strong> was closed <strong>and</strong> buckets of soil were tipped on top, attendants shovel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> more to f<strong>in</strong>ish <strong>the</strong> job. Dust clouds rose to jo<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> dust that hung <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> heat-struck, lower<strong>in</strong>g sky. Her body went <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> earth, earth was shoveled on top of her, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> sky ra<strong>in</strong>ed earth on all of us: a dusty k<strong>in</strong>d of tears. 8