Chronicle 157

Fell & Rock Climbing Club
of the English Lake District
Chronicle
Number 157 October 2015
FRCC, 12, The Drift, Harlaxton, Grantham, Lincolnshire
Gary Milner climbing Silver
Lining HVS (5a) on Dihedral
Slabs, Lundy
Photo: John Spencer
Meet report p 23
1

Hidden Lakeland Last edition’s photo, by Alan Hinkes,
was taken while descending St. Sunday Crag
The photo, right, was
sent in by Simon
Jeffries and taken on
a dull day. Any ideas?
Thank you to all
members for photos
sent. Sadly, it’s
impossible to include
them all.
Sprinkling Tarn Photo: Cath Sanders
Meet report p 25-26
2
New routes
books, left, and
page, right,
shows
description of
‘Snicker Snack’
& ’Dream
Twister‘ Gable
Crag: Colin
Donner & Andy
Hall. See p 5

2016 Journal : Update and Request
The 2016 Fell and Rock Journal is now underway. Thanks to contributors
who have already sent articles. Following this year's devastating earthquake, we
have decided to make a special feature in the 2016 Journal of members' writing
about Nepal. This could take the form of pieces about this year's events or writing
based on previous visits to Nepal. Please feel free to discuss your ideas with us. It
feels important to make recognition of the special place that the country of Nepal
has long been for British mountaineers.
We would also like to receive members’ photographs and artwork for the
2016 Journal. Books for review should also soon be available. Let us know what
you've been reading.
Thank you, Martin Cooper and Andrew Paul
Officers’ Reports, Committee News and Information:
The Secretary
My own activity this quarter has been somewhat curtailed by an unscheduled
flight from Dow Crag on the Saturday of the Coniston meet. My thanks are
due to very many in the Club; principally of course to Paul for hanging on to me for
a long time. I was also helped by the Mountain Rescue team from RAF Leeming
who were on exercise nearby, the crew of the helicopter from RAF Boulmer who
plucked me from the crag, and the Coniston MR team who also were on hand. I
have written letters to quite a lot of others who helped on the crag, and in the
hospitals. However, I want to record here, huge thanks to very many members
who contacted Sue by phone and cards to support her whilst I was in hospital in
Newcastle. Especially to Dave and Liz Rhodes for the gratefully accepted offer of
overnight accommodation for Sue and also to Pam and Peter Shawcross in helping
to transport me home. Very many others visited me, phoned and sent cards and
reminded me, if ever I doubted it, what a great community of friends the FRCC is.
All the damaged bits are now recovering well.
The period since May has been busy. There was a good turn-out for the
launch of Lake District Rock, including most of the people involved directly. Visitors
included BMC CEO Dave Turnbull who welcomed this great addition to the Guidebooks
of the area. Congratulations are due to writers and photographers and
especially to Steve, Ron and Richard.
Members have been involved in working parties and the fruits of their
labours will, we hope, mean a more efficient use of digital media, a saving of money
and a fresh look at how people join the club.
Other work goes on quietly behind the scenes to e.g. keep the fells litter
3

free; as well as ensuring that footpaths crossing or coming close to our properties
are properly signed. Thanks are again due to the people involved.
My thanks to Paul for stepping in to take minutes at the September
committee as I attended a family wedding in London. I would like to record my
appreciation of the way both retiring VPs have made my life easier and worked hard
for the FRCC.
Martyn Carr
The Membership Secretary
Membership Update At the September Committee Meeting the following were
accepted into Associate Membership; Alec Berry, Trevor Brewster, Andy Dunhill,
Sue Fox, Stephen Goodhart, Edward Hamer, Samuel Hamer, Norbert de Mello, Rob
Muirhead, Mike Nuttall, James Poole and Paul Suthers.
Full Membership: Mark Baron, Joanna Campbell, Nick Cutts, David Dempsey, Trevor
Good, Peter Graham, Jennifer Hawkin, Hazel Jones, Mary Lothian, Trevor Lowe,
John Mackenzie, Tom Randall, Susan Wales and David Wilkinson. Also, Richard
Wheeldon, who as immediate Past President of the Climbers' Club was accepted
unanimously into Full Membership.
Membership Numbers: The current membership is 1146, with an average age of 64. The
average age of joining is 39.
Please note there are only 42 members below the age of 40. The aging profile of the club is
not an immediate crisis, but could lead to slow decline, as an older membership becomes less
active, and so less able to support the full range of activities the club currently undertakes:
including guide book production, hut maintenance etc. In recognition of this a Membership
Working Group has been set up, see below.
Membership working Group
The membership working group will look into ways of attracting members,
particularly among younger mountaineers with the following Terms of Reference:
Purpose: To consider better ways to attract and introduce new members to the
club in light of the age profile of the club and the limited number of younger
members (under 40).
This scope is to specifically include:- 1. The Marketing of the Club
2. Introducing people to the club
3. The process of joining the club
To make recommendations relating to:
1.The review of the Membership Byelaws (which are due to be reviewed in 2016).
2. Integrating the membership process into new club website.
3. Presentation of membership information and joining processes in light of the
preferred means of communicating with members via electronic media.
4. Other marketing opportunities.
4

The time scale of the Working Party is as follows:
1. To make recommendations to the membership subcommittee in February 2016.
2. Present approved recommendations to the main committee in February 2016.
3. Present outcome of the review to the club, including any necessary changes to
the Membership Byelaws, etc. at the 2016 AGM.
Members of the club are welcome to submit any views on membership to the
membership working party or to the membership secretary. Proposed
membership of the working party is: Ron Kenyon, Dale Bloomer, Nina Stirrup,
Dave Evans, James Hoyle, Pam Shawcross and Peter Simcock
Photos for Handbook
If you have any photos that would be suitable for the 2016 Handbook cover,
please send to: Peter Simcock, membership@frcc.co.uk
Recently Deceased
Gillian Hall M since 1976, died June 2015
Alan James Slater M since 1992, died 18th May 2015
Margaret Mitchell M (L) since 1945
Harold Drasdo M since 1957, Eastern Crags Guidebook Writer 1959,
1967, 1969, died 3rd September 2015 Wendy Dodds
LAKE DISTRICT NEW ROUTES BOOKS
New Routes in the Lake District used to be recorded in the new routes books
kept at the Packhorse Inn in Keswick. Jim Wilson, landlord, passed these onto Ray
McHaffie, who retained them and these have now been passed onto to the FRCC,
by his son James.
There are five books starting with “The Mole” a route on Black Crag,
Borrowdale by Ray McHaffie, P Phillips and Louise Heineman on 29th September
1968 through to “Brothers in Arms” at Bram Crag Quarry by Craig and Dean
Bainbridge on 7th June 1992.
The books cover an extensive period of development of Lake District rock
climbing and give a fascinating read with also some additional comments
appended.
The books are to be kept with the FRCC items and library at the Armitt
Museum and are available for members and the general public to see at the
Museum, in Ambleside, which is open from Monday to Saturday .
Ron Kenyon
5

FUTURE MEETS
Salving House, 9th-10th October, 2015 (London and SE )
Some of us will be joining Mark Baron’s meet in Borrowdale and plan to have a
small, communal dinner on Saturday evening organised by John Finlay. Any of the
ex London section’s FRCC members and friends will be very welcome (it will save
bringing one meal along) but would you let John know — Tel: 01435 872266 or
email: johnfinlay@talktalk.net— if you are coming. There will be a small fee to allay
expenses...bring your own wine!
Thank you, Anne Hartley
Change of Coordinator at Salving House
13th-14th November 2015
Please note there has been a change in the coordinator for the above meet. Mark
Goodings will now be the meet coordinator. As usual, if you wish to attend, please
book with the hut warden and also let Mark know you are attending.
Brenda Fullard, Meets Secretary
Temperance Meet, 4th-5th December 2015 at Birkness
Just a quick reminder to all those gentle and temperate folk of our venerable club.
Please don’t forget to book your beds for this year’s temperance meet; we will
follow the time honoured itinerary, with a communal Asian themed meal
(cost approx £5), not forgetting the usual summits to be concurred namely Pete’s
Chapatti mountain.
Bookings via Pete: birkness@frcc.co.uk
Thanks Mark Wilkinson, Meet Coordinator : wilkie209@hotmail.co.uk
French Easter Meet, 2nd-16th April 2016
(subject to final AGM approval)
The meet will take place at Camping Gervanne at Mirabel et Blacons near Crest in
the Drome region. The owners have been contacted and are very keen to welcome
us on their very pleasant campsite by the River Drome which caters for the usual
mix of tents, caravans and cabins/mobil homes.
Climbing possibilities in the area are many and varied, ranging from multi-pitch
adventures on the Trois Becs and Aiguille de la Tour at Saou to a vast number of
sports climbs (of all grades and angles!) on crags like La Graville, Mur du Son and
Roche Colombe at Saou, and not forgetting the incredible Ombleze with its
hundreds of quality routes on a big south-facing cliff of great beauty. Ombleze
Gorge and Saou also have north-facing sectors in case we have to deal with a heat-
6

wave! There are also numerous crags of all sizes, some huge, around the lovely
walled medieval town of Die, about 30 minutes drive to the east.
Walking and road-biking in the Foret de Saou and southern Vercors mountains are
equally stunning and there are many excellent waymarked mountain-bike circuits
of all standards in the hills around Crest, Saillans, Saou, Grane and Die with routecards
available from the Office de Tourisme in Crest. Thanks, Rob Smitton
Scottish Hotel Meet, May 2016
This meet will start on May 14th for 7 nights.
Venue: best Western Kinloch Hotel, Isle of Arran
Cost: £350 per week, £70 deposit on booking
For more information contact : Fiona de Courcy: davedecourcy@btinternet.com
Welsh 3’s Circuit, Summer 2016
Some KMC members have done this as a fell run in a single (long) day – the current
club record is 17 ½ hours which included stopping at the Royal Vic on the way back
to Ty Powdwr for a cheeky pint!
The last time the two day version was attempted as a group was in 2012, we carried
all food and bivvy gear and stayed at the reservoir overnight. This version should be
marginally easier as catering will be provided by the meet leader at Glan Dena
(MAM) hut at the foot of Tryfan for both dinner and breakfast.
Total distance over both days on the recommended route below is approximately
37 miles with just less than 5000 metres of ascent/descent. Perfect Alpine training.
Day 1 An early start at Ty Powdwr GR 5856809 then through the slate quarries and
up to Elidir Fawr and round the ridge to Y Garn - descent via the Devils Kitchen to
Ogwen Cottage. Straight up the nose of Pen yr Ole Wen then along the ridge to
Carnedd Dafydd out on the spur to Yr Elen – Carnedd Llywelyn - Foel Grach -
Carnedd Uchaf —Foel Fras and returning via Bwlch Eryl Fachog past the reservoir of
Flynnon Llugwy down the track to the A5 and the MAM hut.
Day 2 Along Heather Terrace to Tryfan South Col and ascend Tryfan via the south
ridge or alternately straight up the North Ridge. After this following Bristly Ridge (or
the easier path) to Glyder Fach then passing Castell Y Gwynt to Glyder Fawr and
picking a path to Pen-Y-Pass. Briefly along the Pyg track to Crib Goch then up onto
Crig Y Dysgol and Carnedd Ugain summit and easily to Snowdon summit. With all
3000’s now done it’s a long descent to Llanberis then a steep finish up through
Padarn country park to Ty Powdwr.
Advance booking only. Initially places are only available to KMC or FRCC -
members/associate members. Andy Stratford: stratandrew@btinternet.com
7

ANNUAL DINNER AND AGM WEEKEND
30TH OCTOBER TO 1ST NOVEMBER 2015
The dinner weekend will follow the usual pattern of the last few years. The offer of
3 nights for the price of 2 still stands; the extra night to be taken on Thursday 29th
October or Sunday 1st November. Accommodation prices are as follows:
2 or more nights Single room, £46 pp per night
Double/ Twin room, £39 pp per night (£78 per couple)
1 night only Single room, £63 pp per night
Double/Twin, £50 pp per night (£100 per couple)
NB Single occupancy of a double room incurs an extra £25 per night.
Members taking up the offer must have dinner or a bar meal on 2 of the nights. The
FRCC Annual Dinner will not count as one of these.
Bookings should be made with the Shap Wells Hotel — the number is 01931
716628.
There will be a 2 course carvery meal (main + sweet) available between 18.30 and
20.30 on the Friday evening. This will cost £15 pp payable on the night.
The Saturday dinner ticket price is £30; the application form is opposite. I shall be
making a seating plan and attempting to seat people with their preferred groups.
Please note that in order to do this I need the relevant information as soon as
possible. Check beforehand that those members you indicate are intending to
attend. Block booking helps enormously, so please get together if you can and send
in one form.
London and South-East News
Joint Summer Walk with the Rucksack Club
This was led by their London section chairman, Richard Jewell, in June around Old
Burghclere on the Hampshire Downs. It included part of the Wayfarer’s Walk along
Watership Down and Ladle Hill. We didn’t see any rabbits but plenty of ’gallops’
over beautiful, wide green hills.
Winter Lectures
Attendance to all lectures is free and start at 7.30pm. They are held at the Civil
Service Club, 13-15, Great Scotland Yard, London, SW1A 2HJ, a small road between
Northumberland Avenue and Whitehall near Charing Cross and Embankment
underground stations. Restaurant/bar available.
Tuesday, 6th October
Neil Harwood, RC. 1970 Expedition to Norway’s
Oksfjord peninsular.
8

DINNER BOOKING SLIP (TICKET PRICE £30)
TICKET NO’S________________
MEMBERS_________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
GUESTS_____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
No of Standard Dinners_______________No of Vegetarian Dinners____________
I WOULD LIKE TO SIT ALONGSIDE________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
Please send to: Jane Spreadborough, Springfield Farm, Lower Norwood Road,
Norwood, Nr. Otley, LS21 2RA with CHEQUE + SLIP + SAE (no SAE no reply!)
Thank you
Monday, 2nd. November Paul Padman, AAC. Exploratory mountaineering in the
Djanghart Valley, Kyrgyzstan.
Monday, 7th December Simon Kemper, AAC. Ascent of the North face of the
Aiguille Blanche de Peutery, considered the
most difficult of the alpine 4000m mountains.
Tuesday, 5th January ‘16 David Wynne-Jones, FRCC. Climbing all of the Alpine
4000m mountains.
Tuesday, 2nd February’16 Martin Cooper, FRCC. Falling and other Mountain
Journeys.
Tuesday, 1st March’16 Peter Clarkson, TCC. Ethiopia, its History and the Sinien
Mountains.
Accommodation and a free meal beforehand can be provided for any future
volunteers of lectures. Thank you , Anne Hartley Tel: 01491 682890
9

This space for AGM tickets
KENDAL MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL 2015 (KMFF)
Photos Wanted
This year the Committee Meeting weekend has been moved to avoid the KMFF
(19/22 November) and we are looking to have a stall at the Festival to promote the
FRCC and also sell guidebooks.
We are looking for a loop of photographs about the Club and I would be
grateful if members would send me photographs of Club activities (meets,
maintenance meets, huts, trips etc) to include in this loop.
We also need to have members to man the stall over the two days –
Saturday 21 st and Sunday 22 nd November – again please contact me if you
can help even if only for a few hours.
Thank yon, Ron Kenyon
Fundraising for Nepal at the KMF: information on page 31
10

More News and Information
Story of the Huts
When preparations were being made for the Club Centenary, it was planned to
include in the Centenary Journal an account of the purchase and development of all
our huts. However the article written proved too long for that Journal and was set
aside to be used later.
It has now been updated with a further ten years of huts’ history and is being
produced as a separate and fully illustrated booklet for distribution to all members.
To economise on postage, it is hoped to distribute as many copies as possible at
Shap Wells during the AGM/Dinner weekend.
Maureen P. Linton
Hut News at Brackenclose
I was very surprised on a recent visit to the hut to find a large rock on the
fire grate. It had obviously been there sometime and subjected to a lot of heat was
reddened and splintered. Now I don't know what was going on here but it seems to
be a pretty foolish thing to do. I know that coal is theoretically a rock but it's the
only one which burns!!. The others don't. I'm used to having to clean out the usual
fire remains which people leave in the grate., but a rock?
Looking after a hut entails a lot of work in the normal run of things. Cleaning
up after daft and potentially dangerous behaviour like this I object to. Whoever it
was, don't do it again!
Also, our local branch of Barclay's will no longer accept cheques which have
the initials FRCC on the payee line.
All cheques must now have " Fell and Rock Climbing Club" there.
There are notices in the hut and in the signing -in book to remind you! Thanks to all
who have cooperated so far!
Mike Carter
E News and E Chronicle
If you would like to receive FRCC news by email and the Chronicle in digital format,
please contact Norman: frcc@nehaighton.co.uk or Philip: website@frcc.co.uk
AGM Papers
These will soon be delivered by post, in some cases, along with this Chronicle.
However, the 2106 AGM papers and all future copies will be made available on the
website and members must opt in if they wish to receive a paper copy. Details of
how to opt in will be made clear and available next year in time for the 2016 AGM.
FRCC Facebook Group Page
If you’d like to join, please email: Norman Haighton, Helen Elliot or Cath Sullivan
who will invite you to join.
11

FRCC Central Buttress Centenary Photos FOR SALE
During the centenary of the first ascent
of Central Buttress on Scafell, on 20 th April
2014, the original camera used by the
Abraham Brothers was used to take
photographs to record the ascent. The
photographer, Henry Iddon, organised the
photo-shoot at the base of Scafell crag in the
same location used by the Abraham Brothers
when they re-enacted Herford climbing the
crux moves on the Great Flake for the
camera, while protected by a top-rope from H
C Bowen. Photographic plates with Ilford negative paper were used with the
camera. Due to the cost of the plates there were only three plates available. There
was however no information about how long the plate should be exposed and it
was therefore necessary to have trial runs the day before the centenary. It was then
necessary to go back down into the valley (with the camera as well) and process the
plates. The first one was over-exposed and there was only one plate left to record
the centenary ascent - this was correctly exposed of about one second, taking off
and replacing the lens cover, with the resulting fine photograph.
Henry was also involved in producing a film including re-enacting the first
ascent of Central Buttress. Others involved were Simon Gee, Stephen Ashworth,
Adam Hocking and a cast of thousands.
The centenary ascentionists were Nick Wharton, Steve Scott, Al Phizacklea,
John Holden, John Lynch, Tommy Moore, Joe Holden and Dave Woods.
Henry also re-enacted the photograph of the group on the bridge behind
Wasdale head in 1893. This was not taken by the Abrahams but is an iconic
photograph of that period.
Special limited copies of these photographs are being made available by
Henry from negatives printed on Ilford Warmtone paper. The image size will be
12x10 inches on 16x12 paper.
from negatives printed on Ilford Warmtone
paper. This is an expensive procedure as each
print must be specially processed and prints
therefore will cost £125 each.
If you would like a print of one or both
photographs please return the slip opposite to:
Ron Kenyon, 30 Wordsworth Street, Penrith,
Cumbria, CA11 7QY
12

FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB - CENTRAL BUTTRESS CENTENARY PHOTOS
Your name ..................................................................
Address ....................................................................................................
Postcode ...............................
Images at £125 each:
Central Buttress Centenary Ascent
Quantitiy ………Cost £………...
Wasdale Head Bridge Quantitiy ……...Cost £.………..
Total
£ ………..
Cheque payable to ‘Fell and Rock Climbing Club’ and returned to Ron Kenyon
Meet Reports Trip to Pabbay, May 2015 Photo over page & back cover
There was a Joint FRCC / EVMC trip to the isolated island of Pabbay at the
south end of the Outer Hebrides. A five hour ferry trip to Castlebay followed then
by 45 minutes on small boat to the island. There were twelve of us and no one else
on the island. We settled in to share this with seals, corncrake, snipe, gannets,
cormorants etc etc. Made of Lewisian Gneiss – one of the oldest and very hard (and
sharp) rocks.
All the crags are next to the sea – many requiring abseil approaches. The sea
was ever present with the tide and the swell affecting accessibility.
Banded Geo (South Face) was the focus of interest on the first day with a
short abb and a collection of excellent routes. Over the week we visited most of
the crags from the small crags of Small Buoys and Evening Wall; Poop Deck and
Hoofers through to the main wall in the Banded Geo with the likes of the classic
routes of Sprint Swill (E1) and Stealing and Seal’s Gaze (E1) and Spooky Pillar (HVS)
to the vast (100m abb approach) next to the Great Arch with the uber classics -
Prophecy of Drowning (E2) and The Priest (E1).
Protection of the abb ropes was a constant concern after seeing what can
happy during abbing down to Spring Swill !!!!! - rope protectors so important !!
There was no phone or email contact (we had a satphone) – and the wind
seemed to be ever present with squalls of rain being a constant threat.
Although small there was plenty to do away from the crags – Graham
(Townsend) and Bob (McAdam) climbed the Graham Bobs – each of the summits
(max height 273m).
Having sampled Pabbay a trip is also included in the Meets List for 2016 to
Mingulay – contact me if you are interested. Ron Kenyon, Meet Coordinator
13

Blank for photos application form
Karn House Maintenance Meet,
12th-13th June 2015
After the disappointing weather of
May and the first week of June, imagine my
excitement when the weather turned for
the better for the week of the Maintenance
Meet. But Aviemore had a surprise in store
on the Saturday morning which dawned
grey and soon turned to persistent drizzle ,
lasting all day and into the evening.
Undeterred, the merry band of
attendees gathered for the new H&S
briefing at 08.30 sharp. Jobs were allocated
and the team scattered to all corners of the
hut, both inside and out. There was a
temporary hitch whilst the hoover had
some tlc, but it soon became apparent that
a defibrillator at the very least was
required, so the Chair of the hut subcommittee
approved its replacement in
order that the usual thorough vacuuming
could be carried out. The roof was given its
usual brushing, which this year resulted in
the design of the ‘Cudahy Roof Master’
The Priest and Prophesy of
Drowning, Pabbay, May 2015
Photo: Ron Kenyon
14

now available in all good hardware shops and to be demonstrated at next year’s
meet if required! The warden paid a visit to our neighbours with ‘the pods’ (not an
infectious disease, but recently installed camping shelters over the fence) who had
used a professional tree surgeon, apparently, to decimate two of our lovely birch
trees shown in the photo below They were unrepentant and claim that the trees
will soon grow back, but will never be the same again, which is a pity.
We had visits from both
the plumber and the electrician.
The heating in the lounge
continues to run too hot so the
plumber will replace the
thermostatic valve in the hope
that this solves the problem. The
electrician was able to quickly
sort out the failed heater in the
downstairs mixed dorm, but had
to return the following week to
replace the two faulty lights on
the stairs.
By lunchtime many of the important jobs had been completed, so we
finished off those still remaining, offloaded a trailer full of garden refuse at the local
tip, and settled down to a refreshing cup of tea and cakes. Well, most of us that is.
It soon became apparent that Mr Cudahy was missing, not away patenting his new
brush, but giving the tool shed a thorough tidy up, so woe betide anyone who
leaves it in a mess!
We all missed Assistant Warden (soft furnishings) Jo Flint and Assistant
Warden (catering) Lynne Breen and look forward to them joining us again next
year. A big thank you to catering virgins Al and John Sanders who did such a good
job that their services may be called upon again, and to all the other volunteers
who gave up their time and travelled so far to help. Graeme Ralph, Hut Warden
Introductory Meet , Raw Head 19th-20th June 2015
Fourteen people attended the meet, including 7 guests: Steve Bowes, Stuart
Bradley, Steve Carty, Ian Charters, Pauline Charters, Helen Dunnet, Michelle
Fuller, Dave Garner, Clare Harris, Nick Harris, Dave Hyslop, Pete Simcock, Graham
Townsend and Jonathan Wright.
Despite mixed weather, it being wet on both Saturday and Sunday mornings,
many various activities were undertaken during the week-end. These included : fell
running, supporting an a Joss Naylor round, fell walking in low cloud which covered
the tops in the mornings including the odd Birkett or two, Ghyll scrambling up the
Dungeon Ghyll, plus some cycling training for an audax.
15

There was even some time for rock climbing
when the sun came out on Saturday evening on Stickle
Barn Crag and on Sunday afternoon on Raven Crags
Langdale and Walthwaite.
Everyone enjoyed themselves discovering what
the club had to offer.
A wee dram was shared on the Friday evening to
celebrate Ian and Pauline Charters’ retirement.
My especial thanks to Graham Townsend who
helped make the guests feel welcome.
Peter Simcock, Meet Coordinator
Dungeon Ghyll, scrambling Photo: Michelle Fuller
Geology Meet, Brackenclose 19th-20th June 2015 continued p 21
The 2015 geological meet took place on the mid summer weekend at
Brackenclose and was based around the geological chapter researched and
written by John for the pending Scafell climbing book (to be published next
summer). A full hut is always a good show of popularity but was this based on the
attraction of being able to tease our leader John or the promise of easy walking
with lots of stops to talk and bash rocks? A poor forecast threatened a re-run of the
washed out 2013 Scafell Geology meet. The drizzle came as forecast on Saturday
morning but the weather improved as the weekend went on. Saturday started
with an introduction to Scafell geology as the rain pattered the window. Faulting,
volcanism, sedimentation of ashes in water and granite intrusions were explained
in preparation for the field localities. The first stop was Lingmell Gill to check out
the different rock types of the boulders and an impressive granitic porphyry dyke
crossing the stream bed just up stream from the bridge. From there it was upwards
in the rain to Mickledore and the East Buttress crags (hidden in the mist) to see the
many fault lines which form the gills and to look at features of the dacite lava flow
which forms some of the best climbing crags in the country. During our visit to the
summit plateau of Scafell Pike the rain stopped and the clouds lifted just in time for
Mark Scott to show some of us to the site of a prehistoric stone axe factory at an
outcrop of rock made of very fine volcanic ash. Part of the party was wandering the
hillsides lost in the mist while this interesting discourse took place.
Sunday was a day of discovery and some proper field geology. We made our
way towards Gill near Burnmoor Tarn in search of the Eskdale Granite outcrop and
the ‘contact’ where it meets the Borrowdale Volcanics. Although the exact location
was not previously known to the group, extensive poking about and paddling on
the beck, found the boundary of the granite intrusion and nicely killed off the
leader’s idea of a fault causing the formation of the gill. A very satisfying piece of
detective work and not bad going for a morning on the hill! We then climbed Illgill
16

Beetham 50th Anniversary
29th August 2015
The official opening of Beetham Cottage took place during the AGM/
Dinner weekend in October 1965 but, as a meet had already been held at the hut
during the preceding August, it was felt appropriate to celebrate the 50 th
Anniversary during August 2015.
Weeks of meticulous planning had already taken place, when a team of
members arrived at the hut two days before the weekend to start preparations for
the festivities. Much space was needed both inside the hut for preparation of the
buffet and outside to accommodate all the expected visitors. So, Saturday morning
saw personal food boxes being moved from the food store back into cars and the
cars themselves moved into a nearby field, where permission for parking had been
obtained from the owner, thus leaving the hut car park empty for the erection of
two gazebos. The gateway to this field was marked by clusters of balloons and an
appropriate notice had been displayed but it was felt advisable to have also a
system of attendants by the gate to deal with any problems.
Meanwhile, back at the hut, intensive work was being carried out in the
kitchen, while tables and seating were being arranged outside. All was hectic fun
and appeared to be going reasonably smoothly when one of the car park
“attendants” returned to the hut with the news that the owner of the field had
Photo: Tony Simpkins
17

arrived there declaring that he had no knowledge of any parking permission having
been granted. Undaunted, warden Barbara left her kitchen to deal with the
situation and all was well. Apparently the permission had been granted by the real
owner’s brother who had forgotten to tell his brother about it. So preparations
continued with just an occasional glance at the sky whenever a short shower
caused consternation.
About 60 members attended the celebrations, a few of whom had been at
the original opening in 1965. The proceedings commenced at 3pm with drinks and
an introductory speech by the President. This was followed by a most memorable
appreciation of Bentley Beetham given by member Guy Plint who, as a child, had
known him personally. Guy spoke of Bentley’s outstanding reputation as
ornithologist, photographer and schoolmaster in addition to his achievements as
mountaineer on our own hills and crags, on the 1924 Everest expedition and on
many distant ranges. But above all, Guy emphasised Bentley’s regard and concern
for his fellow man as shown by the wide variety of recipients of his many legacies.
It was a spell-binding speech and many, if not all, the listeners came away with a
far greater knowledge of our generous benefactor.
The speeches were followed by a truly lavish buffet which everyone enjoyed
while mingling and chatting in warm sunshine. It was a most happy occasion and
many thanks are due to Barbara and Andrew and their team of helpers for the
planning and production of such a memorable event. In November, Barbara will
have completed ten years as warden of Beetham Cottage. All who have enjoyed the
superbly high standards which she and her team have maintained at the hut will
agree that she has done an outstanding job.
Thank you Barbara from all of us.
Maureen P. Linton
Photo , left,
taken by Ron
Kenyon, shows
Martyn being
hoisted to safety.
See VPs meet
report on page
22
18

Memorial Plaque Restored (2015)
Everyone was delighted with the new
plaque, re-cast and re-mounted, on the summit
of Great Gable in time for Remembrance
Sunday 2013. It looked equally splendid,
deservedly so, in August 2014 as Britain
reflected during the Centenary of the outbreak
of The Great War. Then came the devastating
news from Rod Smith after his visit in
September: ‘A mismatch of metals in the bolts
and washers is causing active corrosion cells
which are spreading under the memorial itself
and will get worse rapidly. Very soon the only
remedy will be to replace the memorial yet
again.’
Photo: Rod Smith
A flurry of recces were followed by a voluminous exchange of information
and suggestions from many sources. Prospects brightened when Alan Strachan
issued his Method Statement in June 2015: ‘The Plaque is made from a bronze
casting containing 85% copper. The six mild-steel bolts were secured to the rock
with epoxy-resin. After a year the bolts are corroding and because of the different
Electrode Potential of mild steel and copper the bronze plaque is discolouring.’
He recruited Trevor Lowe to provide additional expertise and equipment
and, along with many other members notably Chris Sherwin, Ellie Sherwin and
Chris Vernon, began to implement his plan: ‘The bottom four steel bolts holding the
plaque will be removed; three of them will screw out. The fourth, which is broken,
will be drilled out. The holes in the rock will be re-drilled then cleaned and dried with
an airline. The silicon-bronze bolts will be checked for length and cut if necessary. In
turn each hole will be filled with the epoxy-resin and the bolt with washers inserted
and held for the hardening period. When the bottom four bolts are secure the top
two steel bolts will be removed and new silicon-bronze inserted as before. With the
plaque held securely a start will be made on polishing the plaque. Very fine wet and
dry paper will be gently rubbed using a sanding block on the surface of the plaque
near the bolt holes. Then T-cut polish will be used and the surface machine buffed.’
Alan’s Risk Assessment included: ‘The work will have to be done on a fine, clear and
dry day’ adding somewhat tongue-in-cheek (I think) ‘This will minimize the risk of
volunteers getting lost’.
19

20th June 2015. Trevor
Lowe and Alan Strachan: ‘It
was wet. The promised
clear skies did not appear
until 16:00. We got four of
the bolts in and established
that the plate polishes up
with fine wet and dry
sandpaper.’
Photo: Alan Strachan
11th July 2015. Pepper,
Chris Sherwin, Ellie
Sherwin, Alan Strachan
and Chris Vernon: ‘Good
progress in the cold mist.’
Photos right and below:
Chris Sherwin
Alan, Chris and Trevor: ‘Job done - almost.’
This is not a casual ‘thank you’ but one of
genuine sincerity:
The Club owes a huge debt of gratitude to
all the members who willingly gave much free
time on several trips to complete the restoration
of the plaque exactly two years after the original
was taken for re-casting.
Peter Smith OBE
20

John explains
Photo: Pam Shawcross
21
Head to find (in the
stone walls) boulders of
volcanic ignimbrites,
volcanic deposits
formed as a result of
pyroclastic flows
(avalanches of super
heated clouds of gas
and ash). As we
casually strolled
towards the summit,
triathletes participating
in the Wasdale Iron
Man overtook us. A 2.4
mile swim in
Wastwater followed by the 112 mile ride closely following the Fred Whitton then
Illgill Head, Whin Rigg and the Corridor Route to Scafell Pike, Wow!! The "Well
Done, Keep Going" seeme inadequate praise for being 3/4 of the way around the
World's hardest Iron man challenge. The final stop was an undulating area on the
edge of the crags overlooking Wastwater, near Illgill Head summit. The undulating
topography of the escarpment edge was explained by John and David as fossil landslips
formed at the end of the last ice age as the permo- frost melted. I'm sure that
all those that attended realised just how lucky we had been to have two
consecutive geological field trips spent with such an eminent, if talkative,
geologist John Moore, his competent colleague Dave Stephenson, a renowned field
geologist from the BritishGeological Survey and Mark Scott who has a wealth of
knowledge about Scafell. Thanks everyone for another fantastic weekend.
Report by Dale Bloomer John Moore, Meet Coordinator
Coniston Meet and Dinner 26th– 28th June 2015
The Coniston Meet hit a very sombre note on the Saturday, when we learnt
that Martyn Carr had fallen at the top of Abraham’s Route on Dow Crag.
Fortunately Paul Exley’s belay held and several useful people were at hand.
To quote the President’s notice on the website: “the Rescue Team was called -
however there were two RAF Rescue Team chaps on C Ordinary and the rest of
their group nearby. Rob Dyer (from the BMC) and partner were following up the
route and Iain Cole and daughter Maire (from Kendal) at the bottom - who went
to the top, with myself (Ron Kenyon). In due time Martyn was lowered to a ledge.
The RAF helicopter arrived and Martyn was lifted off the ledge and taken to
Carlisle Infirmary.” We are pleased to report that, at the time of writing (mid
August), Martyn has been home for some weeks and is nobly continuing with his
secretarial duties. We all wish you a speedy and complete recovery, Martyn.

Meanwhile, Norman Haighton led a substantial group on a geocaching trip
from Torver to Dow Crag Summit. Nearly all participants were new to this sport,
which seemed to involve a lot of laughter. A few took off from the furthest point for
a longer walk over the fells. The rest, heading for the last cache at Ash Gill Quarry,
watched the antics of an RAF rescue helicopter at Dow, remarking frivolously “It
can’t be one of us….”
The Dinner at the Crown Hotel drew a good crowd and gave a great
opportunity to meet up, especially with some old friends and other regulars. The
committee nominees for the next two Vice Presidents were, according to custom,
announced at the Dinner: Dale Bloomer and Richard Tolley.
The first sight of Sunday morning looked like a washout, but those who had
faith in the weather forecast combined bus and boat for a scenic local history walk
from High Cross to Brantwood, ending the day in hot sunshine.
Special thanks for organizing this Meet and Dinner to Brenda Fullard. Not an
easy task, Brenda, and we are most grateful.
VPs: Paul Exley, Norman Haighton and Hatty Harris, Meet Coordinators
FRCC/BMC Youth Meet , Raw Head, 3rd-4th July 2015
On the weekend of 03/05 July, after a break of 10 years, a Youth Meet was
organised under the FRCC / BMC at the FRCC Rawhead Hut in Langdale. James
McHaffie had been involved with the previous ones and a chance comment by him,
to Ron Kenyon, about getting youngsters out onto the crags reignited the idea. 10
youngsters, age 12 – 18, signed up and 12 adults volunteered to help. DBS checks
were made on the adults and all split up for the weekend. A young Emma Twyford
had attended earlier meets and in 2000 had been teamed up with the ever young
Angela Soper - and Emma was keen to come along and help.
Caf and Emma got the ball rolling on the Friday, before the meet, when they
went up to Pavey Ark and climbed Impact Day (E8) - Emma's ascent was the
firstfemale lead !
All gathered on the Friday night ready for the weekend with much
excitement by the young ones about staying in the hut.
Saturday dawned wet and cloudy and Caf gave some instruction in the hut
on gear placement and belaying, then all went to various crags in late morning -
Raven Crag, Long Scar/Black Crag and Raven Crag (Walthwaite) and the weather
improved during the day. A good selection of routes were climbed - including
Enterprise, Rizla Rib, Glass Slipper, Bilberry Buttress - and also a new E4 on Raven
(Walthwaite) led by Caf and followed by 4 youngsters - called Chance. It takes a rib
right of Hardup Wall.
There was a communal meal (eventually) in the evening followed by Caf and
Emma giving illustrated talks.
On the Sunday morning it was extremely quiet in the hut at 8.00am and
22

people slowly started to move about. The weather was scheduled for rain at
4.00pm and all made ways to Raven Crag and White Ghyll/Scout Crag. Again a good
selection of routes were climbed including Revelation, Green Groove, Centipede
and White Ghyll Slabs Route 1 - Caf took one lad up Trilogy - Saturday had been the
first day this lad had climbed outside!
Great weekend all round. It is so important to introduce youngsters (and
adults !!) to climbing outside and especially on trad routes to show a totally new
world away from climbing walls.
Another Youth Meet is
planned for 2016 – contact me for
details, or with names of any
youngsters and also if interested
in helping.
Ron Kenyon, Joint Meet
Coordinator
Beetham, Cottage 3rd-4th July, 2015
This was the second meet we have coordinated a meet at Beetham Cottage.
We had a full house again but the weather was not as kind as last year. There was
less climbing done as a result and more went walking so there was plenty of activity
altogether.
As with our previous meets, we provided a communal meal on the Saturday
night. It was great how everyone pitched in to set up the table and dish out the
food etc. and cleared up afterwards. It was a good communal effort and the feedback
suggests much fun was had by all.
We coordinate another meet at Raw Head on October 16th-17th and hope it works
out as well.
Dave Wilkinson and David Dixon, Meet Coordinators
Joint KMC/FRCC Meet, Birkness, Buttermere, 3rd-4th July 2015
Joint FRCC/KMC Attendees: Andy Stratford (coordinator), Yvonne Holland, Jim
Gregson KMC members: Dave Wylie, Christine Beeston, Lorna Marsland, Lester
Payne, Bron Edwards, Oi Ding Koy, Jim Symon, Philippa Maye, Sandy Gregson FRCC
member: Graham Thompson
Friday 3rd Dave made an earlier start to walk a few fells around Ullswater on
the way – Arthurs Pike, Bonscale Pike, Loadpot Hill, Wether Hill, Red Crag, Steel
Knotts and Hallin fell. Despite the lack of someone to climb with, Graham was
undeterred and opted for a walk up to Raven Crag – soloing Corvus in under fifteen
minutes and passing a couple of roped teams on route. Andy and Yvonne arrived
23

around 4.30 and had a quick jaunt round the lake to go for refreshment in the
Bridge.
The weather forecasts for Saturday looked poor with strong winds all day
and rain in the morning.
Saturday 4 th Sure enough, there was a distinct lack of promise in the
climbing conditions, but with willing (ish) partners (Lester and Ding) Graham
managed to get a rope of three together and headed off up Great Round How
where, in marginal conditions, they climbed Stargazer in one pitch and Route 2 in
two pitches. Jim and Sandy decided to visit the Wainwright exhibition in Keswick,
catching the bus outward and walking back over Grizedale Pike, Coledale Hause,
Whiteless Pike and Wandope. Lorna and Christine decided that shopping
opportunities in Keswick ought to be strictly time limited so walked more or less
the reverse of the Jim and Sandy route direct from the hut and caught the last
Honister bus back. Meanwhile Andy, Yvonne, Dave and Bron made their way up to
Robinson via Hassnesshow Beck meeting mist, winds and rain on the tops. We
bumped into a New Zealand couple on the tops on a supported traverse of the
Lake District – turned out the chap was the Governor of the Central Bank of New
Zealand! On to Hindscarth and Dale Head with the weather slowly improving, then
a drop to Honister. Yvonne was feeling uncharacteristically off form so headed
down Warnscale leaving the three of us to the (slightly crowded) delights of
Haystacks. Dave and Bron had enough by this point and made their way down via
Scarth Gap but with the sun just out Andy didn’t feel like stopping so carried on up
the Buttermere fells - High crag, High Stile and Red Pike - returning to Buttermere
village via Bleaberry Tarn. We had a sociable evening chatting, drinking and looking
at photos using Dave’s new search system.
Sunday 5 th The weather was forecast to deteriorate in the early afternoon
so most opted for an early (ish) start. Jim, Philippa, Lorna, Christine and Lester
walked the Buttermere fells one group in each direction. Graham and Ding went to
climb Gillercoombe Buttress, Jim and Sandy managed a dry couple of routes on
Great Round How before getting a soaking, Andy and Dave made a quick stop at
Quayfoot Buttress climbing the eponymous route then decanting to Keswick.
Thanks to all for a great weekend.
Andy Stratford, Meet Coordinator
Maintenance Meet, Salving House, 10th-11th July 2015
Several tasks were undertaken by keen members on the Friday as a carpet
in the male dorm was removed and taken to the tip before the main maintenance
began. The chimney was swept and other small prep work done.
The hut was fully booked so on the Friday evening, because more women
than men were booked in, the dorms had to be swapped around.
There were no major tasks to complete but even so, everyone was kept
busy all day by thoroughly cleaning the hut, painting inside and outside, tidying up
24

the garden, fitting additional shelves in the male dorm, fitting a carpet, having some
of the blankets and curtainsancleaned, attending to the front door and lock, sewing,
covering the rocking chair and catering. Everyone who attended worked extremely
hard and kept finding themselves additional jobs to do! Consequently, the
barbecue started slightly later than expected and due to the rain, which had fortunately
kept away for most of the day, was held indoors.
On Sunday, some members, were still busy with more joinery for bedroom
shelving, sharpening knives and hauling away bags for the tip or charity shops.
Others managed well-earned, local walks in dry weather.
Thank you everyone who came for working so hard, bringing equipment,
baking wonderful cakes and to Nula for the ‘new’ carpet.
Phil Elliot, Hut Warden
Brackenclose, 24th-25th July
The meet had a great turn-out, with 18 of us on the Friday night, boosted by
a further party of five hut-to-hutters on Saturday night.
Unfortunately my weekend got off to a bad start as I sprained an ankle
walking off the top of Long Scar while climbing on Friday afternoon, and spent the
rest of the weekend limping about and living vicariously off the activities of others.
Saturday provided me with some fine spectator sport, with Linda Lord, David
Soles and guest Ron Rees all taking part in the Lingmell Dash British Championship
Fell Race from the Wasdale Head Inn to the summit of Lingmell and back. Although
only 7.2 km long, this was a brutally steep course with 762 m of ascent. By carefully
positioning myself on the lower slopes, I got an impressive view of the runners first
swarming up the steepest part of the hill, then hurtling back down again some 20-
30 minutes later. Even more impressive were the finish times; the previous records
for both the men’s and women’s were completely smashed, with new records of
43.05 and 50.35 set respectively. Linda came an extremely close 2nd in the
women’s over 65s age class, with a finish time of 1.13.06. See photo over page.
Meanwhile, the promise of a dry day lured others up to the high crags. Holly
Rippin, Mike Nuttall and Dave Clark tackled Moss Ghyll Grooves (MVS); the slightly
damp rock adding a ‘++’ to the grade. They all seemed to enjoy it despite
complaining of varying degrees of hypothermia by the time they reached the top,
where they resorted to splaying themselves against sun-warmed rocks like torpid
reptiles in an attempt to re-heat themselves.
Sue Stirrup and Fiona Turner, having experienced wet and cold conditions
the previous day on Needle Ridge, opted for the sunny side and climbed Juniper
Buttress (Severe) on Pike’s Crag. This however proved to be even colder than Scafell
Face by all accounts, with a strong wind stripping away any minimal solar capture.
The rest of the attendees enjoyed good fell walking weather, with Suzanne
Fielding, Deirdre Collier and Andrew Liddle doing circuits over Scafell Pike and
25

Photo above courtesy of Norman
Berry, Holmfirth Harriers: Linda Lord
nearing the end of the Lingmell Dash
Lingmell from the hut, whilst Martin,
Anne-Marie, Thomas and Eleanor Edwardes
had a successful mission to locate the
mystery viewpoint for a much-loved
Lakeland landscape photo on their living room
wall (which turned out to be the top of
Yewbarrow).
A selection of delicious homemade
cakes were shared on return to the hut, and
with a good hut full of people, we all
enjoyed a very sociable and banter-filled
Saturday evening.
Sunday dawned with the prospect of a
rapid deterioration to wet, cold and windy
weather, so most people headed off home
before lunchtime, having at least made the
most of Saturday.
Thanks to everyone for coming along
and making this such an enjoyable meet.
Cath Sanders, Meet Coordinator
Lundy, 1st-8th August 2015
You would think that a climbing trip to Lundy would fill up easily, not so. By
April there were only six of us and it looked as if the meet might be cancelled but
no the rest of the money was paid and we were going. I would liken this meet to
Usain Bolt, slow to get started, building up momentum gradually and finally
managing to come out a winner. Things turned out well eventually and by the end
of the week people were commenting about what a special place Lundy is and that
they had had a great time.
After an uneventful crossing, some teams managed to get some climbing in
on the Saturday afternoon before the rain arrived. However, Sunday was glorious
and everyone managed to get plenty of climbing done. By Monday though, the
wind had built up making life difficult so even routes on the Devil’ Slide became
more challenging. Things didn’t improve the next day either; the ferry didn’t run
and those leaving or arriving on the island had to use the helicopter. Nevertheless,
several of us managed to find shelter and some dry rock on the east of the island
and after a bit of gardening, routes were climbed that would not normally be
looked at. Fortunately, by the next day, things had settled down. The weather for
the rest of the week could not have been better and from a personal point of view
some great climbing was done. By Saturday I had had enough, it can be a tiring
26

week climbing on Lundy. Still three teams managed to fit in a few more routes
while the rest of us relaxed around the village waiting for the ferry and the long
drive home, a pleasant crossing back to Illfracombe and that’s Lundy for another
year, a successful week.
P.S. The member of last year’s meet who left a cam on a route might be
pleased to know that it is still there although the people that spotted it did
complain that it took up a good hand hold.
For those of you who might climb on Lundy in the future, here are a few
things to consider, based upon actual events this year but not mentioning any
names, the implications of these actions are for you to figure out…….
1.make sure you abseil into a zawn from the correct place.
2. do not leave your rack of gear at the top of the crag when you abseil
down.
3. do not take your own and someone else’s helmet to the crag.
4. if there is an abseil rope to retrieve, make sure you pull it up before the
last man climbs especially if it is about to or is raining.
5. do not forget to take your harness to the crag.
6. do not start climbing if you can see the rain coming.
7. do not abseil into a zawn without your rope.
8. make sure that you clip your expensive cams onto your gear loops and not
into thin air
So if you ever climb on Lundy these pointers may be helpful……ENJOY IT!
Steve Lunt, Meet Coordinator
Photo on front cover
Family Meet, Brackenclose 31st July– 6th August 2015
This was the meet that almost wasn’t, as unusually for this popular meet,
no-one had booked in until just before it was due to start. In fact, three families
joined the meet and plenty was done!
The Walker family included Stuart, one of our graduate members, the Hogan
family Janet and Ben (12) and the Thompson family included Joe (13) and Will (11).
We were also honoured by visits from two former presidents and a long-serving
treasurer (Pete and Hilary Moffat and John Coates)
The Hogan/Walker team enjoyed Napes’ Needle (1st pitch ably led by
Stuart), (see back cover) Tophet wall and Eagle’s Nest Ridge Direct (finishing up
ordinary) in their outings, as well as the Buckbarrow scramble, a trip over Illgill
Head, Whin Rigg and the screes, a run around Mosedale and swims in the sea at St
Bees (Ben; with waves crashing over the prom) and Wastwater itself (a bit chilly;
whole team going commando on the way back across the screes). Most notably,
while we adults climbed Eagle’s Nest Ridge Direct, the boys returned to base to
cook dinner! We then enjoyed a glorious walk off Gavel Neese in the fading light
with no-one else around.
27

The Thompson family were over Lingmell via the Corridor Route, Muncaster
Fell and paddle-boarding on Wastwater in very strong winds, which according to
Will was ‘very hard work’.
Slack-lining, tree-climbing and reed-boat construction and racing inevitably
featured, but the John Cooper Clarke poetry evening to celebrate Rachel Walker’s
birthday was possibly a first for a family meet….made possible by the relatively
older cohort of children! (For non-aficionados, the language is fairly fruity and the
tone somewhat dour!)
I hope someone will volunteer to coordinate this always great meet next
year. My son is about to leave the family meet age range, but we shall miss it!
Janet Ashworth, Meet Coordinator
Salving House, 14th-15th August 2015
When I first saw the request for meet coordinators, Salving House in August stood
out. What could be better than walking the hills in perfect summer weather or
climbing on warm sun-kissed rock? Unfortunately nature did not cooperate with
my plans and the weather was somewhat variable with Autumn attempting to
make an appearance in August at times.
On Saturday morning a large group set off on a trip around as many of the
FRCC Memorial Peaks as possible. People cut off as they wanted and eventually the
remnants of the party decided that we would not be able to complete the full
round and get back in a reasonable time for the evening meal, so we returned via
Moses Trod and Honister. Meanwhile Ian and Pauline continued their quest of
collecting the Birkett tops with some walking on the damp fells between
Borrowdale and Thirlmere, while two other groups walked various hills around
Borrowdale.
A pleasant evening of conversation around the fire along with a few drinks
brought the day to a close.
Various activities took place on Sunday including a geology field trip, sport
climbing, a walk on Maiden, photography from Castle Crag, and following me up
Corvus as a first multi pitch route for two of the party.
Despite us not having the summer weather that I had hoped for I think all
attendees had a good time.
Peter McNulty, Meet Coordinator
Maintenance Meet, Waters, 4th-5th September 2015
We were blessed with a sunny day for this year's Maintenance Meet,
although with only six folk attending on the day, the work carried out was more or
less limited to "spring cleaning". Attendees on the 5th were Mark Gear (Warden),
Helen Goode (Guest), Dee Gaffney (Assistant Warden) and her nephew Nathan,
John Coates and Duncan Garvey. Special mention should go to Dee's shortening
and hanging of curtains in the Common Room and Male Dorm #2, John's cleaning
28

John's cleaning of the fat trap in particularly midgy conditions in the morning, and
Duncan's clearing of rotting vegetation from the guttering. Food was organised by
Mark and Helen - soup and pizza for lunch, real coffee at breaks, chilli con carne and
fresh pineapple with yoghurt for dinner - and John very kindly donated wine for the
Meet.
On Saturday 18th September, Alan Warwick (Assistant Warden) and wife
Olwen (Guest) came up to fit a new fire grate, sweep the chimney and deal with
some remaining jobs.
Thanks to those who came and put in a full day's work to keep the hut spick
and span. Next year we expect to have more extensive outdoor jobs to do -
masonry painting, painting a new window to be fitted to the Cottage Kitchen and
pruning of vegetation - so a good turnout of users and supporters of Waters would
be much appreciated.
Mark Gear, Hut Warden
Maintenance Meet, Raw Head, 11th-12th September 2015
The meet was splendidly supported by over 40 members and two guests.
Warden Alan and Alys had already spent a few days at the hut preparing the
programme of work and several keen members arrived on Thursday. This meant
that a start could be made during Friday when full advantage was taken of glorious
sunshine to tackle some of the outside painting and strimming, the common room
chimney had its annual sweep and the end kitchen in the Barn was thoroughly
cleaned leaving it available for use during Saturday.
Not only did we wake to rain on Saturday, but the noise of it had already
woken many during the night. All outside jobs and all plans of emptying the hut and
cottage of furniture had to be abandoned but work continued as furniture was
moved from side to side as necessary. Inside the Barn, every room was “deep
cleaned” with walls and woodwork being washed or painted as required while, in
the cottage, walls were replastered and some new carpeting fitted.
Meanwhile the catering team were busy. The warden had generously
allowed for some breaks, ten minutes for “elevenses” and half an hour for lunch
when it was quite a sight to see a long queue outside the cottage waiting to get in
for an ample lunch of pie, peas and all the accompaniments.
By now the weather was improving and outside work could start. More
strimming and gardening was done, outside painting continued, the end wall of the
cottage was re-whitened and a carefully belayed team scraped moss off the cottage
roof. All this deserved another break mid afternoon where the display of home
made cakes would have taken all the prizes at any “bake off” competition. Finally,
when we were allowed to down tools, there were celebratory drinks and a group
photo. This was followed by a convivial evening where some even managed to cook
another huge meal, some limited themselves to a snack while others sought
sustenance up the valley.
29

Sunday saw the final clearing up and some power washing of the path while
some managed a walk before leaving for home. It was a great weekend with lots
done thanks to everyone there. It was really pleasing to see some of our Associate
Members taking part and especially good to see our Secretary back on his feet
again.
Grateful thanks from Alan – and an invitation for next year. Book early.
Report by Maureen P. Linton
Alan Strachan, Hut Warden
Members’ Activities
I think for many climbers who live outside of the Lake District, the most
famous route (or at least the one most people can name) is the multi-pitch Little
Chamonix at Shepherd’s Crag. The reason I first became aware of this route was due
to the legend of a certain Ray McHaffie attempting the route in roller skates. I’mnot
sure what I thought of this ethic at the time, as a teenager who’d only been to the
Lakes just once on a school trip, but I did know that I would one day go and try that
route.
My first foray up Little Chamonix was with one long-standing FRCC member,
Professor Rod Smith. It wasn’t our first outing together as we’d previously roped up
for a very memorable ascent of Napes Needle. I believe Rod’s account can be found
in the 2008 FRCC Journal. Unfortunately, it appeared that Rod had not learnt from
his previous experience and once again (mis?)placed his trust in me to assist him up
Little Chamonix. As I set off on the first pitch on a glorious Lakeland day, I was
constantly reminded of my fragile position,
“Don’t look down Tom, you’ve got no protection in”…… “That doesn’t look very
secure. Are you sure you know what you’re doing?’’
As usual, Rod’s sense of humour hadn’t been left in his rucksack and I
chuckled away to myself. Despite his apprehension of climbing a route that is quite
hard for him, it barely showed it through a barrage of quick witted heckling. Arriving
at the end of the first pitch, I anchored my rope and started to belay him up.
Quickly and nimbly, he negotiated most of the difficulties (granted, some were not
quite so nimble) and soon arrived at the belay. Unfortunately over the course of the
next thirty minutes it came evident that the party ahead of us was having difficulties
so we opted that day to retreat to the cafe below. Even though it was a bit
disappointing, we’d had a great introduction to the route and I promised Rod that
I’d still climb with him again next year.
Moving on a year, I managed to book a return to the route with my wife who
promised me she’d only throw compliments and agreed that sandwiches carried
“en-route” were a sensible option considering the possible delays that can occur. As
30

I’d already ventured up part of the route, I knew there was a perfect picnic spot! I
know it’s hardly a hardcore attitude, but enjoyment was at the forefront of our
minds. We were also on a ‘hut maintenance meet’ weekend and somewhat broken
from too much wood chopping and digging!
As it turned out, we had a lucky break with other climbers on the route and
moved almost continuously. The crux pitch with the infamous bridging-position was
negotiated fairly easily, but neither of us could believe that you’d do it in roller
skates! Even more mind boggling was the last pitch of the route, which is steep and
exposed. To climb this with 8 spinning rubber cylinders
was more than I could take in. For us in modern
rock shoes, it was a real pleasure and both of
us topped out with massive smiles on our faces. As
we walked back down to the cafe in perfect evening
light and a warm breeze we were reminded of
how much and why we love the Lake District.
Tom Randall
After topping out on Little Chamonix, Tom and partner
Red Pikes – A Lovely Pair
Blame Alan Strachan! He did it a couple of Easters ago and it’s been on my
radar since. Simples, go for a toddle from Brackenclose including both Red Pikes,
Wasdale and Buttermere. It took me 10 hours 10 minutes including biking to/from
Wasdale Head and 10 minutes 'crack' with Joss Naylor near Scoat Fell, so I offer you
the more generous gauntlet of 10 hours from Wasdale Head, any route and tops
you wish. My route was Wasdale Head, Dore Head, Red Pike, Scoat, Steeple, ridge
to Ennerdale via the other Lingmell, cross Liza below Ennerdale YHA, Red Pike,
Buttermere ridge, Scarth Gap, Black Sail, Wasdale. Could be shortened by following
Steeple ridge all the way then wading river Liza - wish I had, but maybe not ‘kosher
I mentioned the walk to Simon Jeffries who recalls including Gable,
Haystacks, Great Borne, Caw Fell and Pillar - but this I believe was prior to WW1
when he were a fit young thing! So,‘Easy Peasy’, I hear the young, fit or runners say,
but you are disqualified unless ALL the following apply:
Have a bus pass – ok, bit unfair for some so we shall say 60+.
Grey hair (blokes), ditto or colour from a box (lassies) plus sprinkle of
wrinkles.
Consider fell running ridiculous (face it, runners would complete this trip by
11's). Ergo no colourful fell shoes with diamond tread patterns or teeny weeny
shorts with a slit up the side.
Never ever attend a gym, though yoga, pilates, tai chi, line dancing and WI
acceptable.
No dogs, llamas, ospreys, children, kites or pals in the RAF to pull you along.
31

Never won an athletic event, zero medals or trophies in the cupboard.
Rucksack 25+ litres with stuffed butty box and 0.75+ litre Thermos.
One or more walking aids, eg pole, bit of tree, crutch, Zimmer frame,
unicycle.
Compass & map, GPS / smart phone relegated to emergency rucksack
depth.
Don’t watch daytime TV (ok, Coronations an exception).
I will cheerfully buy a pint for anyone meeting the challenge who writes an
interesting follow-up in the Chronicle (should be on fairly safe ground there). And
of course there are other same named fells to join up ...... Les Meer
Other Information
AN EVENING OF MOUNTAIN POETRY AND MUSIC
will beheld at the HAWKSHEAD BREWERY, Staveley near Kendal (next to Wilf's Cafe)
on Wednesday 9th December 2015 at 7:30pm. Free entry.
If you would like to read a mountain-themed poem and/or sing/play an instrument
please get in touch with Dennis Gray at -- ddgray27@hotmail.com
(This event is being held as part of the Alpine Club Lakes Lectures series)
Regards, Jim Gregson
"Electricity Pylons in The Lake District
As part of the development of electricity generation in West Cumbria there are
plans for the largest electricity infrastructure project in the UK. National Grid is
proposing to run 400kV cables around the west of Cumbria from Carlisle in the
north to Heysham inthe south. In the worst-case scenario, this would mean 24km of
pylons and overhead lines within the Lake District National Park. National Grid is
currently refusing to discuss underground mitigation for the line installation in the
west of the Lake District and has put forward only different pylon line routes within
the National Park as 'mitigation'.
Look at the website - http://www.saynotopylonsinthelakedistrict.org.uk - for more
details."
Mountaineering Challenges
Please inform me of any challenges that you have completed this summer at:
p.elliot007@btinternet.com
A list of the Challenges to date is available on the website: Club Documents or on
the About Us page: http://www.frcc.co.uk/aboutus.asp
This is updated so far and will become an historical record for the Club. Thanks,
Phil Elliot
32

I
Nepal: Fundraising at Kendal Mountaineering Festival
19th-22nd November; Help Needed, Clothing
There is now a team of enthusiastic members to help run a stall at the Kendal
Mountain Film festival, to raise money for Community Action Nepal,-email address
below-for rebuilding facilities destroyed by the earthquake earlier this year. More
volunteers very welcome.
One suggestion from a member is to sell good second hand outdoor gear that is
languishing in our gear cupboards. If you such have item/s then please bring them
to the Annual Dinner where there will be boxes to collect them. Remember some
people go for vintage stuff. (There are also collection boxes in some of the huts.)
Other members have been very busy making all sorts of lovely items to sell.
If you are interested and want to help please contact me via email on
chrispaul02@gmail.com, or using my address or telephone number in the
handbook.
. Thank you, Chris Paul
Book Sale for Nepal
Very many thanks to those who bought books at Birkness and Raw Head recently.
Your donations and contributions amounted to £96.50 – and helped me clear my
bookshelves.
Cheque sent to Doug Scott’s Community action Nepal
Community Action Nepal
Himalayan Trust
Juniper Trust
The Glacier Trust
Reminder of Websites for Donations
www.canepal.org.uk
www.himalayantrust.co.uk
www.junipertrust.co.uk
Thanks a lot, Maureen P. Linton
www.theglaciertrust.org/donations-and-appeal/
FRCC Merchandise with Logo
There is a link on the website to Coniston Embroidery, a local Lakeland company
that manufactures clothing with the FRCC logo. Clothing for sale includes polo
shirts, fleeces, T shirts etc. You have to sign in as a member and then it's at the foot
of the home page, below the red "Visit the FRCC Guidebook Shop". The direct link:
https://www.conistonshop.com/Lake-District-Fell-and-Rock-Climbing-Club_148/
shop/index.php
33

Book Reviews
Scottish Cycle Routes, Alasdair Cain
30 Lowland & Highland road routes from the Borders to the Far North-west
With the massive growth in road cycling in the UK the active cyclists bookshelf
is crying out for books like this to provide inspiration and guidance for ‘new’
rides. The author, aka Cube, based in Scotland, comes with a fine pedigree as a
cyclist both solo and tandem.
The guide covers the whole of Scotland and presents 30 routes across the
country. This is a tall order and there are noticeable gaps, but as a taster, if the trick
has been pulled off expect to see More Scottish Cycle Routes. So has it…?
In a slim, pocket sized volume the area is split into seven regions working
north from the South-west through the Borders and into the Lowlands and
Highlands. Typically there are four or more circuits in each section with one tough
through route included. The routes are all rideable in a day or less and include
some classics like the challenging Bealach-na Ba and the scenic Moidart and
Ardgour round. Options to shorten or extend the ride are offered.
Each section is introduced and then the routes have basic ride data in a clear
banner to aid selection – Start and Finish; Distance; Height Gain; Max Gradient and
Approx. Time. Each route is described in a narrative style with plenty of illustrations
showing the character of the ride and the scenery. All important refuelling stops at
cafes and any local bike shops for running repairs are mentioned. Other useful
material is found in the introductory pages such as equipment, food and drink and
dealing with emergencies and breakdowns. So far so useful.
As with any new initiative, things can always be improved and the diagram
showing the elevation seemed a very poor relation to the normal coloured gradient
profile which I felt would be far more useful. The choice of base map for each of
the areas, showing the location of the routes, resulted in too much clutter and too
small a scale for the job. Similarly the route maps would benefit from full page
treatment. I would have liked to see a step by step ride guide with icons for
junctions and pit stops that could be photographed and displayed on a phone
mounted on the bars.
Having said that it’s a fine guide containing some great rides throughout
Scotland and if you fancy covering some new ground, is worth buying.
128 pp 38 maps limpbound card cover 120 x 180
Steve Scott
publisher – Mica Publishing ISBN 978 – 0 – 9560367 – 7 - 3
34

Along with donations of
mountaineering, expedition and
climbing books from Simon Adams
and Kay Griffiths we have received
two handsome framed pencil
illustrations by William Heaton-
Cooper. These have been donated
by Dr. John Wilkinson, who
commissioned them and other crag
diagrams for the 1967 Scafell Group
guidebook. Members of the guidebook
team were given the originals
by W H-C.
Additional to this is the
original sketch of Beetham hut by W
H-C donated by Guy Plint. We are
ensuring the safe-keeping of all the
above at The Armitt Museum in
Ambleside but making copies for the
huts.
With the recent 50 th
anniversary of Beetham fresh in our
minds – herewith two images of a
very busy hut from the original opening in 1965.
Chris and Ellie Sherwin
35

Dave Menadue on the traverse
across to climb Spring Squill
Pabbay Meet, May 2015
Photo: Ron Kenyon
Meet Report p 13
The Walker family and Ben Hogan on
Napes Needle
Brackenclose Family Meet, July/August
2015
Photo: sent by Janet Ashworth (Hogan)
Meet Report p 24
The Chronicler Not much space this time for contents page or many meet photos
but just enough to say the next Chronicle deadline is 1st December
Thank you, Helen
Published by the Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the English Lake District Limited
Industrial and Provident Societies registration: 30506R
36