Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine 2015
Welcome to Caribbean Compass, the most widely-read boating publication in the Caribbean! THE MOST NEWS YOU CAN USE - feature articles on cruising destinations, regattas, environment, events...
Welcome to Caribbean Compass, the most widely-read boating publication in the Caribbean! THE MOST NEWS YOU CAN USE - feature articles on cruising destinations, regattas, environment, events...
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
— Continued from previous page<br />
Also, once the sail is two or three years old the sailmaker can ascertain where the<br />
sail is chafing on shrouds and spreaders. He or she should glue on reinforcement<br />
patches for spreaders and cut narrow strips to cover the seams where they chafe on<br />
shrouds. If all this is done the life of the sail will be increased considerably.<br />
Problem Two: Flogging<br />
Flogging is another great cause of sail damage or destruction. My problem of flogging<br />
mainsail was solved in 1989 when Robbie Doyle gave Iolaire one of his first<br />
“stack packs” with a fully battened mainsail to test. We discovered a few problems<br />
as the stack pack was originally conceived. The lazy jacks were dead-ended at the<br />
masthead with adjustments via tackles at the tack. This made it impossible to obtain<br />
enough slack in the lazy jacks to allow us to set our full-length awning. Also it was<br />
impossible to set the sail unless you were absolutely head to wind. Even then there<br />
was difficulty with the lazy jacks fouling the full-length battens.<br />
After some head scratching we came up with the solution. Install a block just below<br />
the upper spreaders. Then we lead the end of the lazy jack that was dead-ended at<br />
the masthead, through the block below the upper spreader, and down the mast to a<br />
cleat on the mast. In this way, once the main was down the lazy jacks could be eased<br />
and carried forward, allowing us to rig our full-length awning. We would leave them<br />
forward until the main was hoisted, then set them up, We used the lazy jack adjustment<br />
at the tack as the fine tuner, the one up the mast through the block below the<br />
upper spreader as the coarse adjustment.<br />
Once the problem was solved I explained to Robbie how we rerigged the lazy jacks<br />
and his manual was rewritten for the lazy jacks to be installed in the Iolaire method.<br />
(See illustration.)<br />
A fully battened sail installed in a Doyle stack pack or one of the similar units now<br />
on the market will last virtually forever.<br />
One problem with the stack pack was in the final assembly: sewing the cover to<br />
the foot of the sail, the membrane to the cover, and then the membrane to the<br />
sail. This was a three-person job, one pulling, one pushing and one sewing. Also<br />
it was virtually impossible to repair the cover or the lower section of the sail<br />
unless you found a sailmaker who had a deep throat machine and was willing to<br />
put three people to work to do the repairs. Thus I urged that when making future<br />
stack packs the cover be secured to the sail via a zipper, the cover to the membrane<br />
via a zipper, and the membrane to the sail via a zipper. Not only would this<br />
make the stack pack easier to build, but also it would make it easy to remove the<br />
cover and membrane for repair. Built in this fashion if someone wanted to go racing<br />
it was easy to remove the cover, membrane and lazy jacks, and reinstall them<br />
once the racing was finished.<br />
Iolaire’s original stack pack was installed in 1989. After six hard seasons in the<br />
<strong>Caribbean</strong> and a transatlantic passage, it was replaced with a “Street Pack”: a Doyle<br />
stack pack installed with zippers. The original was replaced not because the sail was<br />
worn out but because the cover and membrane were falling apart. Since it was all<br />
sewn together it was too difficult to repair and was replaced. The new Street Pack<br />
was installed in 1995. The cover and membrane have been removed and repaired<br />
three times but the sail was still going strong when I sold Iolaire, 17 years later.<br />
Now there are many versions of the stack pack available. Before you order one,<br />
make sure the sail, cover, membrane, if it is fitted, are all connected with zippers<br />
rather than being sewn together. The lazy jacks should be rigged as per Iolaire,<br />
coarse adjustment alongside the mast, fine adjustment at the tack.<br />
Fully battened sails are nothing new. The Chinese had them on their junks 2,000<br />
years ago and in the last years of the 19th century and early years of the 20th century<br />
the sailing canoes almost all had fully battened sails. Fritz Fenger, author of<br />
that wonderful little book, Alone in the <strong>Caribbean</strong>, sailed his 18-foot rudderless cat<br />
ketch canoe, Yakaboo, from Grenada up through the islands to Saba where he had<br />
to quit because of sunstroke. Yakaboo was a cat ketch with stayless masts. The sails<br />
had full-length battens and were almost flat topped. As it has often been said, it is<br />
very difficult to invent anything to do with sailing. If you look back far enough in time<br />
it was done before. The new inventions are usually an old idea that works better<br />
today because of modern materials.<br />
I will not get into the argument as to whether fully battened sails are faster than<br />
battened soft sails, but from the cruising man’s standpoint the fully battened sails<br />
beat the soft sails. When you are reefing the full-length battened sail, it does not flog.<br />
If a squall comes through that the skipper feels will only be a short one, the main<br />
can be eased, completely depowering it, yet it will not flog. It may take some strange<br />
shapes but will be depowered. Once the squall passes it can be re-trimmed.<br />
On Iolaire, a yawl, we left the mizzen up when at anchor so she would lie head to<br />
wind rather that tacking back and forth against the anchor rode. When it was blowing<br />
hard the soft mizzen often set up a rather bothersome chatter. However, with the<br />
fully battened mizzen there was no chatter, just a “clunk” as the battens filled port<br />
or starboard.<br />
Problem Three: UV Degradation<br />
In the tropics, Dacron is subject to rapid UV degradation. (Which firm makes the<br />
most UV-resistant Dacron is not a discussion in which I am willing to become<br />
involved.) The solution is simple: use a ‘stack pack’ or make covers of Sunbrella or<br />
a similar sun-resistant fabric — and use them every single minute that the sail is<br />
not in use. Make sure that<br />
the sail covers for mainsails<br />
and mizzens completely<br />
cover the entire<br />
head and luff of the sail,<br />
preferably wrapping right<br />
around the mast, and that<br />
they reach all the way back<br />
past the clew.<br />
In summation, sails are<br />
damaged or destroyed by<br />
stitching failure, flogging<br />
and UV degradation.<br />
Reread this article and follow<br />
the advice given. If you<br />
are using modern hightech<br />
racing sails, be<br />
resigned to short life<br />
Don Street at the helm of the engineless Iolaire<br />
expectancy of your sails.<br />
But if you stick to plain<br />
ordinary Dacron or similar material, your sails will last for many years.<br />
Next month: Preserving Headsails.<br />
SEPTEMBER <strong>2015</strong> CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23