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Private side of<br />

Kruger<br />

Kruger National Park has traditionally been a selfdrive<br />

destination, where your camping gear gets<br />

its annual outing, or you stay in a no-frills Park’s<br />

Board chalet. But in recent years the opportunity<br />

to stay in a private safari lodge inside the National<br />

Park has become a reality. With annual visitors<br />

totalling around 1.3 million, you might wonder if<br />

there is enough space for luxury lodges to have<br />

their own exclusive-use concessions, but Kruger<br />

is the size of a small country and the concessions<br />

bring in much needed income and don’t impact<br />

on visitors using the huge network of public<br />

roads. Read what Derryn Lendrum and Carrie<br />

Hampton have to say about eight of the private<br />

lodges inside Kruger. Luxury comes at a price,<br />

of course, but you will find out how each one is<br />

special and unique and offers you the chance of<br />

going upmarket in SA’s favourite National Park.<br />

Three Cities Exceptional Kruger Safaris<br />

Reviewed by Derryn Lendrum<br />

One of the nine private concessions granted in Kruger National<br />

park is under the custodianship of the Three Cities group.<br />

They have camps on the concession each offering a unique<br />

experience.<br />

Hoyo Hoya Tsonga Lodge<br />

There is no mistaking that you are in Africa when you arrive at<br />

Hoyo Hoyo. This luxurious lodge has accommodation in six<br />

‘bee-hive’ huts - the design is based on the traditional Tsonga<br />

Huts. Cyndrical in shape with cooling thatched roofs and walls,<br />

they are exceptionally comfortable and the outdoor showers are<br />

essential in the heat of summer. The rooms overlook a river and<br />

the savannah, and here and in the other two camps you really<br />

feel as if you are in the wild. All fabrics, decor, and objets d’art<br />

were sourced from the local Tsonga community, and this lodge<br />

has an alluring African feel – I just loved it. Not much can beat<br />

floating in a plunge-pool, sipping champagne and watching the<br />

local wildlife wander by! You have a choice of joining guided<br />

game drives or self-driving in the park. The guides add such<br />

value to your wildlife experience, pointing out birds, trees, and<br />

animals that otherwise would escape your attention. The cuisine<br />

is world-class and is presented with African flair. Although<br />

there is no cellphone reception (what a relief), phone calls can<br />

be made by landline. Accommodating a maximum of only 12<br />

guests, your Hoyo Hoyo is wonderful place to retreat from the<br />

hustle-and-bustle of city life.<br />

W: www.hoyohoyo.com<br />

42 | Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 SAinbound SAinbound Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 | 43<br />

Selati<br />

Game Reserve<br />

Blyde Hoedspruit<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

Acornhoek<br />

Blyde<br />

<strong>River</strong><br />

Canyon<br />

Nature<br />

Reserve<br />

Graskop<br />

Letaba White <strong>River</strong><br />

Luvuvhu<br />

Busizi<br />

581<br />

Hazyview<br />

Nelspruit<br />

Limpopo Punda<br />

Maria<br />

Mphongolo Phugwane Bateleur<br />

Letaba<br />

Ranch<br />

Phalaborwa<br />

457<br />

Thulamela<br />

600<br />

Sirheni<br />

Shimuwini<br />

Balule Klaserie<br />

Game<br />

Reserve<br />

Game Reserve<br />

Eastgate<br />

Airport<br />

Kapama<br />

<strong>Sand</strong><br />

Bushbuckridge<br />

Tsende<br />

Babalala<br />

Masorini<br />

509<br />

Timbavati<br />

Game Reserve<br />

Rhino Post<br />

Plains Camp<br />

Kruger<br />

Mpumalanga<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />

N4<br />

Pretoriuskop<br />

Afsaal<br />

525<br />

Tamboti<br />

Orpen<br />

Ship Mt<br />

662<br />

839<br />

Pafuri<br />

Shingwedzi<br />

Shingwedzi Berg-en-dal<br />

Kaapmuiden<br />

Gona-re-Zhou<br />

National Park<br />

Pafuri<br />

Border<br />

Post<br />

Kanniedood<br />

Dam<br />

Mopani<br />

Tsende<br />

Olifants Mooiplaas<br />

Letaba<br />

Timbavati Talamati<br />

Manyeleti<br />

Game Reserve<br />

Sabie <strong>Sand</strong><br />

Game Reserve<br />

Pafuri Camp<br />

Ripape<br />

Biyamiti<br />

482<br />

Skukuza<br />

Rio Singuedxi Makhadzi<br />

Engelhard<br />

Dam<br />

Letaba<br />

Tshokwane<br />

Nwatimhiri<br />

Olifants<br />

Nkuhlu<br />

Sabie<br />

Balule<br />

Satara<br />

Sweni Lower Sabie<br />

Nwanetsi<br />

Orpen<br />

Dam<br />

Mlondozi<br />

Dam<br />

Crocodile<br />

Bridge<br />

Rio Limpopo Mapai<br />

Limpopo National Park<br />

Komatipoort<br />

N4<br />

Crocodile Mwenezi<br />

Great Limpopo<br />

Transfrontier Park<br />

Giriyondo<br />

Border Post<br />

Kruger<br />

National Park<br />

Jock’s<br />

Border Post<br />

Chicualacuala<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Massingire<br />

Dam<br />

W<br />

R o d<br />

i<br />

N<br />

S<br />

0 20 40 60<br />

Massintonto St Jorge<br />

de Limpopo<br />

Gaxe<br />

Massingire<br />

Mapulanguene<br />

R o<br />

i S abie<br />

Macavene<br />

Kilometres<br />

Mazimechopes<br />

Hoyo Hoyo Tsonga<br />

Imbali Lodge<br />

Hamilton’s<br />

Game Lodge Reviews<br />

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R<br />

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I<br />

c<br />

as Elefantes<br />

Rio Uanetza o<br />

m<br />

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Singita Lebombo<br />

Maalamba<br />

Map by Michael Brett


Game Lodge Reviews<br />

Imbali Safari Lodge<br />

Imbali Safari Lodge has been carefully designed to have minimal<br />

impact on the natural environment. Twenty-four guests can look<br />

forward to five-star luxury suites, each with their own private<br />

Jacuzzi! Design is contemporary and this lodge has both kingsized<br />

bed and twin beds. Activities include guided walks – which<br />

are a thrilling experience, especially if you have not walked in<br />

the African bush before. The sense of being ‘in the wild’ here is<br />

strong – I made sure to have a guide accompany me back to my<br />

room after the superb dinners! For the romantics, private dining<br />

or picnics can be arranged. For me, spending time in at the lodge<br />

is as important as going on a game drive. As everyone cruises off<br />

on their game viewing vehicles, it is fantastically satisfying to gaze<br />

out of your bedroom window and watch the wildlife wandering<br />

over the savannah. However, if you go on enough game drives<br />

(and stay a while) the knowledgeable rangers will introduce you to<br />

the 336 trees, 49 fish, 34 amphibians, 114 reptiles, 507 birds and<br />

147 mammals that are Kruger.<br />

W: www.imbali.com<br />

Hamiltons Tented Camp<br />

On arrival you could be mistaken for thinking that you had walked onto the set of Out of<br />

Africa. This is colonial style ‘camping’ at its best. Six magnificent canvas tents, complete with<br />

teak floorboards, king-sized beds and outdoor showers, are linked to the main lodge by raised<br />

timber walkways. Once installed in a comfy chair, drink in hand (it is almost compulsory to<br />

have at least one G&T), in the lounge or on the veranda overlooking the Nwatsitsonto <strong>River</strong>,<br />

you can be forgiven for finding it difficult to get yourself up again! This is a romantics’ heaven<br />

with the added benefit of game-viewing from your private verandas. The silver-service dinner<br />

is served on the deck overlooking the river. One night during dinner we heard lions roaring<br />

(it felt as though they were right at the entrance), so off we dashed with the ever-enthusiastic<br />

rangers to see if we could find them. Listening and ‘feeling’ the roaring lions is an unforgettable<br />

experience. Activities include game drives and Nomadic African Spa treatments. Personal<br />

butlers, fine rangers and trackers will ensure your experience here is memorable.<br />

W: www.hamiltonstentedcamp.com<br />

Singita Lebombo Lodge<br />

Reviewed by Derryn Lendrum<br />

Modern, contemporary design meets the bush! Set high<br />

up on a hill, the lodge commands sweeping views over the<br />

N’wanetsi <strong>River</strong> and grasslands - this is one of the premier<br />

safari destinations. The rooms are spectacular, and if you<br />

enjoy contemporary design you are likely to love them.<br />

They feature lots of glass as well as steel and wood. It is<br />

as though you are floating above the bush – it is a magical<br />

feeling. The beds are dressed with Egyptian cotton and<br />

mosquito nets. After an early morning game drive and<br />

sumptuous breakfast you can work off some of the food<br />

in the lap pool that lines the dining area. The open-plan<br />

lounge has a library and Internet facilities, and I loved the<br />

‘help-yourself’ fridges, sweet and cookie jars. Perched on<br />

what feels like the top of the world, you can simply relax<br />

or indulge in a spa therapy. This lodge is on the upper<br />

end of the scale and is more of a boutique hotel than a<br />

traditional lodge. Service and quality is impeccable and it<br />

is impossible to be disappointed.<br />

W: www.singita.com<br />

TAU<br />

Advertorial<br />

44 | Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 SAinbound<br />

SAinbound Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 | 45


Game Lodge Reviews<br />

Jock Safari Lodge<br />

by Carrie Hampton<br />

There is something inspiring about Jock - the little Staffie - whose loyalty and<br />

courage epitomises the pioneering spirit of the 1880s. I haven’t read Percy<br />

Fitzpatrick’s famous book Jock of the Bushveld, nor seen the film, but Jock<br />

Safari Lodge has more than enough memorabilia to illustrate the story.<br />

The lodge sets the scene of a gold prospector’s life in those days, with a<br />

pristine ox wagon and beaten metal fire braziers throwing shadows through<br />

the boughs of the enormous Jackalberry trees. Atmospheric lanterns light the<br />

pathways and reed-enclosed dining boma. In such a rustic environment, in<br />

the oldest private concession in the deep south of Kruger, the accommodation<br />

is contrastingly sophisticated and stylish. There are plump, sink-into sofas<br />

and a huge bed in a luxurious room, where the tones of the decor reflect the<br />

hues of the bush.<br />

I was tempted to stay put in my enclave - not only did my suite have its<br />

own outdoor shower and dip pool, but I enjoyed playing hide and seek<br />

with the vervet monkeys on the walkway leading to my sala. The wooden<br />

path led to my very own private hideaway, perched over the dry riverbed,<br />

giving me a bird’s-eye view of elephant feeding in the wetland. But game<br />

drives and walks are always too enticing to pass up, and the rangers look<br />

disappointed if you say you might forego their company for one morning.<br />

Most are Shangaan and they live and breathe the bush – their knowledge of<br />

African nature is their heritage.<br />

Jock Safari Lodge also has ‘Little Jock’ - a three-suite lodge that can be<br />

booked as a private safari camp for a small group or large family.<br />

W: www.jocksafarilodge.com<br />

Pafuri Camp<br />

by Carrie Hampton<br />

I go on safari a lot (if you’re wondering who carries my<br />

bags, there’s quite a queue), and sometimes I can’t face<br />

another bumpy game drive. This is why Pafuri Camp,<br />

in the extreme north of Kruger, is such a joy. You<br />

don’t even have to move from the viewing deck to see<br />

buffalo and elephant, nyala and eland grazing on the<br />

banks of Luvuvhu <strong>River</strong>. Even better, you can be in the<br />

swimming pool, dining area or lounge and still remain<br />

a silent observer to the ever-changing wildlife show.<br />

This is a very special part of Kruger, not just for the<br />

diversity of terrain, fascinating palaeoanthropological<br />

history with rock paintings and artefacts, a<br />

preponderance of rare birds and paucity of visitors,<br />

but because this land belongs to the Makuleke. In a<br />

groundbreaking land restitution, this ancestral territory<br />

was returned to the Makuleke and they decreed it<br />

should remain within Kruger Park, yet benefit the<br />

community through conservation and tourism. Thus,<br />

Pafuri Camp was born.<br />

Managed by Wilderness Safaris – masters at the art<br />

of running remote bush camps – there are twenty<br />

walk-in luxury tents that bear no resemblance to the<br />

dome tents of my youth. All are connected by elevated<br />

wooden walkways leading to the main hub. And this<br />

is where you’ll find me, parked off with a cold drink,<br />

binoculars in hand. I won’t be jealous if you return<br />

from a game drive with stories of outstanding views<br />

and leopard sightings, for I will have seen hippo and<br />

crocs and elusive sable, and ticked off Pel’s fishing owl<br />

and wattle-eyed flycatcher.<br />

Pafuri Camp is very family-friendly taking children<br />

from age six.<br />

W: www.wilderness-safaris.com<br />

46 | Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 SAinbound SAinbound Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 | 47


Game Lodge Reviews<br />

Rhino Post Safari Lodge<br />

By Carrie Hampton<br />

The private concession that Rhino Post Camp inhabits is very close to Skukuza, yet it feels a<br />

million miles away. The track has a severe NO ENTRY sign, and since few self-drivers venture<br />

where they shouldn’t, it means that guests of Rhino Post have a very desirable patch of Kruger all to<br />

themselves.<br />

It’s quiet and peaceful in these riverine woods beside the Mutlumuvi <strong>River</strong>, and Rhino Post is intent<br />

on keeping it that way. There are no air-conditioners drowning out the noises of the bush, and when<br />

it gets hot there’s always a cooling outdoor shower or restorative dip in the swimming pool that<br />

overlooks a waterhole in the dry, sandy riverbed.<br />

I saw a leopard creep up and take a drink one night, and all the other animals who visited while I<br />

slumbered left their spoor clearly imprinted in the sand for us to see the next morning. Following in<br />

these animal’s footprints is a very pleasant way to spend the morning and is actively encouraged at<br />

Rhino Walking Safaris (with a guide of course).<br />

Rhino Post cannot be labelled as a tented camp or a solid lodge. It has facets of both, with strong<br />

canvas walls and wooden-framed sliding doors giving a more solid feel. But what’s ecologically special<br />

is that the lodge is built with no concrete, uses battery power for lighting and an indigenous reedbed<br />

system for processing bathroom waste. That’s more than just doing lip service to being eco-friendly,<br />

and according to a UK survey, it’s this kind of ethos that modern day tourists are seeking.<br />

W: www.isibindiafrica.co.za<br />

Plains Camp And Platform Sleepout<br />

by Carrie Hampton<br />

Walking in big game country sounds more fearsome than it is. You forget that you<br />

could bump into elephant or lion, until your guide signals to keep quiet and stay<br />

put. This is when you remember that this is not just any old walk in the park - this is<br />

Kruger National Park.<br />

Plains Camp only offers walking and is perfect for safari traditionalists. It is the<br />

embodiment of an East African colonial base camp straight from a scene in Out of<br />

Africa, right down to white linen, leather sofas, pith helmet, ancient gramophone and<br />

canvas chairs overlooking a broad savannah. It is intimate and personal with guests all<br />

dining together at the mess tent.<br />

Their intention is to get you treading the African earth, so I decided to do the guided<br />

walk to their multi-level tree platform, stay overnight and hike the mere two and a<br />

half hours back the next day. Platforms is a giant tree house with wooden walkways<br />

leading to individual sleeping ledges about eight metres above the ground and yes,<br />

there are toilets. This is an interactive experience, so while the ranger prepared a<br />

traditional South African braai (borewors of course), I delved into a large chest to<br />

find my bedding; thick fold-up mattress, sleeping bag, sheets and pillows. There is<br />

also a beam over which you throw a tent-shaped flyscreen to keep bugs out of your<br />

bed. It’s ingenious. You don’t really need to be that intrepid to do this, but it certainly<br />

brings out the 19 th century explorer in you, making you feel right at home when you<br />

get back to Plains Camp.<br />

Plains Camp is the sister lodge to Rhino Post on the same concession, and between<br />

them they offer a good value luxury safari with game drives, guided walks and a<br />

sleepout option.<br />

W: www.isibindiafrica.co.za<br />

48 | Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 SAinbound SAinbound Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 | 49


50 | Nov / Dec / Jan 2009 SAinbound<br />

Pristine<br />

Wilderness<br />

According to the Pro-Poor Tourism Partnership,<br />

some 40 percent of global travel now takes place<br />

in developing countries. Tourism into sub-Saharan<br />

Africa is a massively valuable and rapidly growing<br />

industry. Namibia, for example, saw its highestever<br />

tourism numbers in 2007 - around 600,000<br />

international guests traveling from all corners of<br />

the globe , including Europe, China and India,<br />

to experience a continent that fully deserves its<br />

reputation for being steeped in mystery and filled<br />

with a richness and diversity that leaves even the<br />

most cynical and experienced traveler awed.<br />

However, as travelers do become more experienced, visiting Africa repeatedly<br />

and traveling through a circuit of lodges within an area that could potentially<br />

offer something very similar on a functional level, the focus of the savvy<br />

contenders within the hospitality industry is shifting away from offering<br />

guests a chance to tick off the big five on a sightings list, to offering the<br />

opportunity for guests to have experience that encompasses small and<br />

surprising details that allow them to connect with Africa on a level that goes<br />

far beyond the superficial.<br />

Islands in Africa, a group of owner run lodges located in north eastern<br />

Namibia, have made facilitating this connection a central part of their ethos.<br />

Energy, attention to detail and an unwavering passion for Africa and all of its<br />

inhabitants are the core values of these lodges and those that staff them, and<br />

this passion ripples outwards to resonate with the people who visit Impalila<br />

Island Lodge, Susuwe Island Lodge, Ntwala Island Lodge and Epupa Falls<br />

Lodge.<br />

An integral part of creating a powerful guest experience, where Islands in<br />

Africa is concerned, is allowing guests the opportunity to interact with local<br />

communities, and being able to see firsthand, the effect that Island’s various<br />

community development programs are having. Often, guests will then get<br />

involved on a much larger scale, donating money and various items, and<br />

remaining in contact with lodge management in order to be kept up to date<br />

on developments within the community. Impalila Island Lodge recently had<br />

the pleasure of receiving a donation of soccer boots from a generous guest<br />

which allowed the lodge management to create a soccer tournament for the<br />

locals, commencing with a touching handover ceremony where the boots<br />

were given to the players in the various teams. Photographs were sent to the<br />

benefactor, and no doubt she will be returning soon in order to see for herself<br />

the impact she had made.<br />

This is an effective example of what Islands in Africa is trying to achieve<br />

– <strong>Guest</strong>s who leave their lodges, not only well fed, rested and titillated by<br />

sightings of elephants, crocodiles or hippos, but who have also had their eyes<br />

opened to the wonders of these destinations that no guide book could ever<br />

adequately describe.<br />

Restaurants

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