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SOIL PREPARATION SOIL<br />
CONDITION<br />
All types of plants will grow better when given the proper soil c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s.<br />
If your c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s are not ideal, you’ll want to take the extra steps to make<br />
your soil nice and loose over as large of an area as possible. The additi<strong>on</strong><br />
of Sphagnum Peat will help both sandy and clay soils. In sandy soils, it will<br />
hold more water and in clay soils, there will be less <str<strong>on</strong>g>com</str<strong>on</strong>g>pacti<strong>on</strong> and your soil<br />
will be easier to use.<br />
Spread 2 to 3 inches of Sphagnum Peat over the planting area and<br />
thoroughly dig in or rototill to a minimum depth of at least 6 to 8 inches.<br />
Rake the soil level and remove any large clumps.<br />
When planting Rhododendr<strong>on</strong>s, Azaleas and other Broadleaf Evergreens,<br />
remember to use these products to keep your plants healthy and vigorous.<br />
• Sphagnum Peat • Mulching Material<br />
• Pine Bark Mulch (as a soil amendment)<br />
• Root ‘n’ Grow Root Stimulator • Holly-T<strong>on</strong>e<br />
Watering frequency can vary with<br />
plant types and weather c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s. In<br />
general, water more often during warm,<br />
windy weather and less often when it’s<br />
cool or rainy.<br />
Apply water<br />
directly to the<br />
root area with<br />
a hose or<br />
watering<br />
can.<br />
Sprinklers or overhead<br />
watering may not<br />
provide enough<br />
moisture/water…<br />
as leaves shed the<br />
water outside of<br />
the root area.<br />
WATERING<br />
Good Soil<br />
In well drained or loose soils, dig<br />
the hole twice the width of the<br />
rootball and as deep, or slightly<br />
shallower. (NEVER deeper<br />
than the rootball!)<br />
Poor Soil<br />
In poorly drained soil or hard,<br />
<str<strong>on</strong>g>com</str<strong>on</strong>g>pacted soils, dig the hole<br />
three times the width of the<br />
rootball and 75% as deep.<br />
We re<str<strong>on</strong>g>com</str<strong>on</strong>g>mend that you check your plants soil c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s before automatically<br />
watering. (Over-watering symptoms look very similar to Under-watering symptoms).<br />
To check and see if your plant needs watering:<br />
Push aside any mulch around the root z<strong>on</strong>e of the plant. Reach down into the<br />
soil (directly around the root ball) the depth of your fi ngers and remove a sample<br />
(handful). Squeeze the soil in your hand. IF the soil feels too moist and clumps<br />
together or is dripping water when squeezed, THEN there is too much water<br />
already in the soil and additi<strong>on</strong>al watering could <strong>on</strong>ly cause potential problems.<br />
At this point it is better to let the soil dry out before watering again (D<strong>on</strong>’t forget<br />
to check back in a couple of days). IF, however, the soil feels dry and crumbly,<br />
THEN it is time to water this plant again. Keeping your plants at an even moist<br />
soil c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong> can be a challenge at fi rst. Not too wet. Not too dry.<br />
However, <strong>on</strong>ce you have d<strong>on</strong>e this a few times you will begin to identify which plant<br />
species and soil types require particular watering practices.<br />
Remember, it is always better to “get a little dirty” and periodically check<br />
your plant’s individual watering needs, than it is to assume and just set an<br />
automatic watering schedule!