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bordines.com - Flowers on Spring

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SOIL PREPARATION SOIL<br />

CONDITION<br />

All types of plants will grow better when given the proper soil c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

If your c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s are not ideal, you’ll want to take the extra steps to make<br />

your soil nice and loose over as large of an area as possible. The additi<strong>on</strong><br />

of Sphagnum Peat will help both sandy and clay soils. In sandy soils, it will<br />

hold more water and in clay soils, there will be less <str<strong>on</strong>g>com</str<strong>on</strong>g>pacti<strong>on</strong> and your soil<br />

will be easier to use.<br />

Spread 2 to 3 inches of Sphagnum Peat over the planting area and<br />

thoroughly dig in or rototill to a minimum depth of at least 6 to 8 inches.<br />

Rake the soil level and remove any large clumps.<br />

When planting Rhododendr<strong>on</strong>s, Azaleas and other Broadleaf Evergreens,<br />

remember to use these products to keep your plants healthy and vigorous.<br />

• Sphagnum Peat • Mulching Material<br />

• Pine Bark Mulch (as a soil amendment)<br />

• Root ‘n’ Grow Root Stimulator • Holly-T<strong>on</strong>e<br />

Watering frequency can vary with<br />

plant types and weather c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s. In<br />

general, water more often during warm,<br />

windy weather and less often when it’s<br />

cool or rainy.<br />

Apply water<br />

directly to the<br />

root area with<br />

a hose or<br />

watering<br />

can.<br />

Sprinklers or overhead<br />

watering may not<br />

provide enough<br />

moisture/water…<br />

as leaves shed the<br />

water outside of<br />

the root area.<br />

WATERING<br />

Good Soil<br />

In well drained or loose soils, dig<br />

the hole twice the width of the<br />

rootball and as deep, or slightly<br />

shallower. (NEVER deeper<br />

than the rootball!)<br />

Poor Soil<br />

In poorly drained soil or hard,<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>com</str<strong>on</strong>g>pacted soils, dig the hole<br />

three times the width of the<br />

rootball and 75% as deep.<br />

We re<str<strong>on</strong>g>com</str<strong>on</strong>g>mend that you check your plants soil c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s before automatically<br />

watering. (Over-watering symptoms look very similar to Under-watering symptoms).<br />

To check and see if your plant needs watering:<br />

Push aside any mulch around the root z<strong>on</strong>e of the plant. Reach down into the<br />

soil (directly around the root ball) the depth of your fi ngers and remove a sample<br />

(handful). Squeeze the soil in your hand. IF the soil feels too moist and clumps<br />

together or is dripping water when squeezed, THEN there is too much water<br />

already in the soil and additi<strong>on</strong>al watering could <strong>on</strong>ly cause potential problems.<br />

At this point it is better to let the soil dry out before watering again (D<strong>on</strong>’t forget<br />

to check back in a couple of days). IF, however, the soil feels dry and crumbly,<br />

THEN it is time to water this plant again. Keeping your plants at an even moist<br />

soil c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong> can be a challenge at fi rst. Not too wet. Not too dry.<br />

However, <strong>on</strong>ce you have d<strong>on</strong>e this a few times you will begin to identify which plant<br />

species and soil types require particular watering practices.<br />

Remember, it is always better to “get a little dirty” and periodically check<br />

your plant’s individual watering needs, than it is to assume and just set an<br />

automatic watering schedule!

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