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Seula bio je potpuno napušten u svojoj predivnoj lepoti.Tek tu i tamo neko seoce, stoka, svinje, ovce, ljudi.Poslednji dan u Seulu provele smo u Nacionalnommuzeju koji se od 1996. nalazi u Kraljevskoj palatiGyeongbokgung. Divna velika izložba o kulturiGoguryeo, starog kraljevstva koje je sa kraljevstvimaSile i Baekje vladalo celim Korejskim poluostrvom idobrim delom Mandžurije. Period izmedju 57 g. p.n.e i668. n.e. u korejskoj istoriji je poznat kao period TriKraljevstva. UNESCO je dragocenosti Goguryeo-auneo na Svetsku listu baštine, a izložba je objašnjavalaidentitet drevnog kraljevstva.Bez obzira na politiku, izloža je Mili i meni bila odizvanredne pomoći da bolje shvatimo hronologiju.Goguryeo je prethodio Ujedinjenom kraljevstvuSila što nam je pružilo jasniju sliku korejske kulture do935. godine kada je prestala dominacija Ujedinjenogkraljevstva Sila. U sećanje su mi se urezali murali kojisu prekrivali četiri zida i tavanicu rekonstruisanog staroggroba u Goguryeo-u. Na njima su bile velike scene.Sećam se scene lova prepune neverovatne snage, energijei gotovo nenadmašne lepote. Mada su hronološkiprethodili, po mom mišljenju, slikari Goguryeo kraljevstvadaleko nadmašuju slikare Ujedinjenog kraljevstvaSila.A onda smo ušli u sale sa korejskom keramikom i tusmo ostale. Svaki komad zelene keramike, zvaneseladon iz vremena Goryeo dinastije (918-1279) bio jesavršen. Boju je neko najpreciznije opisao kao “tamnozelenu nijansu žada”. Ljudi su pokušavali da tu specijalnuzelenu boju opišu na različite načine, nazivajućije zelenkasto plavom, kao krila vodomara i slično. Pretoga sam u Gyeongju-u nekoliko sati razgledala žadnajraznovrsnijih nijansi dok sam birala ogrlicu, pa miVečera sa Choi u restoranu sa valjuškamaOur farewell dinner with Choi at a dumpling restauranttowards Seoul we saw just how spectacular they were.From our road we could see chain upon chain of mountainsfilling the horizon and golden valleys far bellow,cradling slow flowing rivers. We kept stopping to takephotographs and to take it all in and store it forever.The whole Korean peninsula is ribbed by forested,rocky mountains. Only 20 percent of the peninsula isflat yet the mountains are not very high. The highestpeak in the mainland South Korea is 1915 meters.Korea is one of the world’s oldest land areas, and assomeone explained the whole peninsula is tiltedtoward the west, then tipping into the Yellow Sea .As aresult the west coast is dotted with hundreds of islands.On the east coast on the other hand the mountains goright to the coast and the shoreline is full of tiny coves.The land between the east coast where we spent thenight and Seoul was utterly lonely in all its splendidbeauty. Hardly any hamlets, cattle, pigs, sheep, people.Our last day in Seoul was spent in and around theNational Museum which has been housed since 1996 inthe grounds of the Gyeongbokgung Royal Palace. Abeautiful large exhibition was on about the culture ofGoguryeo an ancient kingdom which together withkingdoms Baekje and Silla ruled the whole Koreanpeninsula and much of Manchuria. The time of theirrule 57BC -AD 668 is known in Korean history as theThree Kingdoms period. Unesco had registeredGoguryeo relics in the World Heritage List, and theexhibition was trying to clarify the identity of theancient kingdom.Politics aside the exhibition was beautiful and forMila and me perfectly placed in time. Goguryeo hadpreceded Unified Silla and that gave us a better pictureof Korean culture until A.D. 935 which marked the endof the dominance of Unified Silla. What had stayedimprinted on my mind the best were the murals whichcovered four walls and a ceiling of a reconstructed oldtomb of Goguryeo. They were big scenes. I remember ahunting scene full of incredible vigour, energy and ofalmost unsurpassed beauty. Although chronologicallyearlier I thought that the painters of the GoguryeoKingdom surpassed by far the painters of Unified Silla.We then entered the halls with Korean ceramics andnever moved any further. Each Celadon pot of theGoryeo Dynasty Š918-1279Ć was a masterpiece. Thecolour was as I since found it most aptly described ‘thedeep jade shade of green’. Otherwise that particulargorgeous green people tried to describe in differentways calling it greeny blue, kingfisher colour etc .I hadpreviously in Gyeongju spent a few hours looking atlots of different shades of jade trying to buy a necklaceand therefore feel that that description fits it perfectly.Mila and I took a long time with each pot. Quite a fewof the Celadon pots were marked as National TrasuresThat was the Korean way of pointing to excellence.The White pottery of the Joseon Dynasty (AD 1392-192

se zato čini da je ovaj opis najtačniji. Mila i ja smo dugogledale svaki predmet. Mnogo predmeta od ovekeramike bilo je označeno kao nacionalno blago. TakoKoreanci obeležavaju savršenstvo.I bela keramika Joseon dinastije (1392-1910) veomaje lepa. Ali zelena keramika Goryeo dinastije jedinstvenaje zbog svoje boje i specijalne vrste tauširanja kojusu pronašli korejski keramičari tog vremena a kojaizuzetno romantično prikazuje ždralove, oblake, vrbe,guske, bambus i jezerca sa lotosima.Poslednje veče smo provele sa Choi u restoranu navrhu brda uz veoma ukusne valjuške i obavezni kimči.Seul je bio ispod nas u sjaju hiljada svetiljki. Poslevečere prošetale smo ulicom. Kraj je bio lep sa mnogostarih kuća. Jedna vrata su bila širom otvorena.Zavirile smo oprezno, ali domaćini su nas videli i pozvalida udjemo. Skinule smo cipele i ušle u čarobnusobu sveže obojenih belih zidova i sjajnih lakiranihgreda boje meda na tavanici. Četvora vrata su vodila učetiri sobe istovetno restaurisane. Ljubazni domaćinipokazali su nam i te prostorije. Objasnili su nam da jekuća detaljno restaurisana kao i mnoge druge kuće utom delu grada. Koreanci sa ponosom brinu o svomnasledju.Počela sam da se opraštam od zemlje koja mi jetoliko prirasla srcu i duši.Divila sam se njenoj snazi i nevererovatnomekonomskom napretku ostvarenom posle Korejskograta izmedju severa i juga ranih pedesetih. Kad je ratzavršen, zemlja je bila u ruševinama. Po snazi svojeekonomije ona danas zauzima dvanaesto mesto u svetu.No ipak, to je još uvek ona “Zemlja jutarnjeg spokoja”i pastoralne lepote.Volim je zbog toga što ne dozvoljava da materijalniprosperitet uništi stari tradicionalni način života. To jeuticaj konfučijanizma, drevne društvene i političkefilozofije koja je nastala u V veku p.n.e. u Kini a koja jeohrabrivala porodičnu hijerarhiju i društvene odnosekao i poštovanje starijih, roditelja i učitelja. I poštovanjepredaka deo je ove filozofije. Stari sistem verovanjajoš uvek je prisutan i život se odvija po njemu čak idanas.Drago mi je što su koreni Koreje toliko duboki i dase još uvek snažno oslanja na njih. Ta veza i principikonfučijanizma objašnjavaju sposobnost ove zemlje dabrine o svom kulturnom nasledju i da ga tako uspešnoštiti. UNESKO preporučuje da njihov model očuvanjanematerijalnog nasledja postane uzor i za druge zemlje.Upravo zato je XX Generalna konferencija IKOM-aodržana u Koreji.Neverovatna hrabrost ove nacije najviše me jezadivila.“Račić izmedju dva kita” – tako jedna izrekaopisuje Koreju. Kitovi su Kina i njena politička moć iJapan i njegova agresivna ekonomija. Japan je 35 godinadržao Koreju pokorenom, od 1910-1945. U vremeinvazije Japan je bio moderna vojna sila za razliku odKoreje koja je bila dostojanstvena, mirna zemlja kojaje samo želela da nastavi da živi kao i dotle. No,stanovnici Južne Koreje su mnogo naučili od Japanacai možda će ih dostići u ekonomskoj snazi. Ekonomskai vojna snaga uvek su bile bitne ako hoćete da mirnoživite.Dovidjenja, Korejo, dolazim opet sigurno. I Mila jeobećala da dođe.1910) is very beautiful too. But Goryeo DynastyCeladon is unique, because of its colour and a specialkind of inlay which was invented by Korean potters ofthe period, expressed most romantically in designsshowing cranes, clouds, willows, geese, bamboos andlotus pools.Our last evening was spent with Choi in a restauranton top of a hill eating very tasty dumplings and theusual kimchi. Seoul was down below twinkling with athousand lights. After the meal we took a walk along astreet. It was a lovely area with very old houses. Onedoor stood wide open. We peeped from afar but wereseen and invited in. We took our shoes off and enteredinto a beautiful room with freshly painted white wallsand gleaming honey coloured lacquered beams on theceiling. Four more doors led to four other roomsrestored in exactly the same manner. Our kind hostsshowed us those rooms as well .We were told that thehouse had undergone a thorough restoration as hadmany other houses in the area. Koreans look after theirheritage with pride.I then started to say good-buy to the country whichhad attached itself to my heart and to my mind.I admired its strength in creating the most incredibleeconomic advance since the Korean War betweenthe North and the South in the early fifties. By the endof the war it had been reduced to ruins. The size of itseconomy today is considered to be 12th largest in theworld.Yet, it is still ‘the land of the morning calm’ andthe land of pastoral beauty.I love it for not allowing material prosperity toruin the old traditional ways of life. It is mainly due toConfucianism, the ancient social and political philosophywhich originated in the 5 th century BC in Chinaand whose teaching encouraged hierarchical familyand social relationships and the respect for elders,parents and teachers. Ancestral worship is part ofthat too. The old system of beliefs is still very much inevidence and the life is conducted along these lineseven today.I love the fact that Korea has very deep roots andthat it is still holding onto them with all its might. Thatattachment and Confucian principles to me explain thecountry’s ability to look after its cultural heritage andprotect it so well. UNESCO recommends their way ofsafe-guarding Intangible Heritage as a model to othercountries. This is why the ICOM 20 th GeneralConference was held in Korea.Perhaps what went the deepest to my heart is theincredible courage of this nation.’ A shrimp betweentwo whales’ is how a local proverb explains Korea. Thewhales being China with its political might and Japanwith its aggressive economy. Japan held Korea captivefor 35 years, from 1910-1945.At the time of the invasionJapan was a modern military power unlike Koreawhich was a dignified peaceful country wanting to beleft to follow its traditional ways. But South Koreanslearned a lot from Japanese and might be able to matchtheir economic strength. After all economic and militarypower were and are important if you want to beleft in peace.Good buy Korea I will definitely come back. Milasaid she will join me.193

se zato čini da je ovaj opis najtačniji. Mila i ja smo dugogledale svaki predmet. Mnogo predmeta od ovekeramike bilo je označeno kao nacionalno blago. TakoKoreanci obeležavaju savršenstvo.I bela keramika Joseon dinastije (1392-1910) veomaje lepa. Ali zelena keramika Goryeo dinastije jedinstvenaje zbog svoje boje i specijalne vrste tauširanja kojusu pronašli korejski keramičari tog vremena a kojaizuzetno romantično prikazuje ždralove, oblake, vrbe,guske, bambus i jezerca sa lotosima.Poslednje veče smo provele sa Choi u restoranu navrhu brda uz veoma ukusne valjuške i obavezni kimči.Seul je bio ispod nas u sjaju hiljada svetiljki. Poslevečere prošetale smo ulicom. Kraj je bio lep sa mnogostarih kuća. Jedna vrata su bila širom otvorena.Zavirile smo oprezno, ali domaćini su nas videli i pozvalida udjemo. Skinule smo cipele i ušle u čarobnusobu sveže obojenih belih zidova i sjajnih lakiranihgreda boje meda na tavanici. Četvora vrata su vodila učetiri sobe istovetno restaurisane. Ljubazni domaćinipokazali su nam i te prostorije. Objasnili su nam da jekuća detaljno restaurisana kao i mnoge druge kuće utom delu grada. Koreanci sa ponosom brinu o svomnasledju.Počela sam da se opraštam od zemlje koja mi jetoliko prirasla srcu i duši.Divila sam se njenoj snazi i nevererovatnomekonomskom napretku ostvarenom posle Korejskograta izmedju severa i juga ranih pedesetih. Kad je ratzavršen, zemlja je bila u ruševinama. Po snazi svojeekonomije ona danas zauzima dvanaesto mesto u svetu.No ipak, to je još uvek ona “Zemlja jutarnjeg spokoja”i pastoralne lepote.Volim je zbog toga što ne dozvoljava da materijalniprosperitet uništi stari tradicionalni način života. To jeuticaj konfučijanizma, drevne društvene i političkefilozofije koja je nastala u V veku p.n.e. u Kini a koja jeohrabrivala porodičnu hijerarhiju i društvene odnosekao i poštovanje starijih, roditelja i učitelja. I poštovanjepredaka deo je ove filozofije. Stari sistem verovanjajoš uvek je prisutan i život se odvija po njemu čak idanas.Drago mi je što su koreni Koreje toliko duboki i dase još uvek snažno oslanja na njih. Ta veza i principikonfučijanizma objašnjavaju sposobnost ove zemlje dabrine o svom kulturnom nasledju i da ga tako uspešnoštiti. UNESKO preporučuje da njihov model očuvanjanematerijalnog nasledja postane uzor i za druge zemlje.Upravo zato je XX Generalna konferencija IKOM-aodržana u Koreji.Neverovatna hrabrost ove nacije najviše me jezadivila.“Račić izmedju dva kita” – tako jedna izrekaopisuje Koreju. Kitovi su Kina i njena politička moć iJapan i njegova agresivna ekonomija. Japan je 35 godinadržao Koreju pokorenom, od 1910-1945. U vremeinvazije Japan je bio moderna vojna sila za razliku odKoreje koja je bila dostojanstvena, mirna zemlja kojaje samo želela da nastavi da živi kao i dotle. No,stanovnici Južne Koreje su mnogo naučili od Japanacai možda će ih dostići u ekonomskoj snazi. Ekonomskai vojna snaga uvek su bile bitne ako hoćete da mirnoživite.Dovidjenja, Korejo, dolazim opet sigurno. I Mila jeobećala da dođe.1910) is very beautiful too. But Goryeo DynastyCeladon is unique, because of its colour and a specialkind of inlay which was invented by Korean potters ofthe period, expressed most romantically in designsshowing cranes, clouds, willows, geese, bamboos andlotus pools.Our last evening was spent with Choi in a restauranton top of a hill eating very tasty dumplings and theusual kimchi. Seoul was down below twinkling with athousand lights. After the meal we took a walk along astreet. It was a lovely area with very old houses. Onedoor stood wide open. We peeped from afar but wereseen and invited in. We took our shoes off and enteredinto a beautiful room with freshly painted white wallsand gleaming honey coloured lacquered beams on theceiling. Four more doors led to four other roomsrestored in exactly the same manner. Our kind hostsshowed us those rooms as well .We were told that thehouse had undergone a thorough restoration as hadmany other houses in the area. Koreans look after theirheritage with pride.I then started to say good-buy to the country whichhad attached itself to my heart and to my mind.I admired its strength in creating the most incredibleeconomic advance since the Korean War betweenthe North and the South in the early fifties. By the endof the war it had been reduced to ruins. The size of itseconomy today is considered to be 12th largest in theworld.Yet, it is still ‘the land of the morning calm’ andthe land of pastoral beauty.I love it <strong>for</strong> not allowing material prosperity toruin the old traditional ways of life. It is mainly due toConfucianism, the ancient social and political philosophywhich originated in the 5 th century BC in Chinaand whose teaching encouraged hierarchical familyand social relationships and the respect <strong>for</strong> elders,parents and teachers. Ancestral worship is part ofthat too. The old system of beliefs is still very much inevidence and the life is conducted along these lineseven today.I love the fact that Korea has very deep roots andthat it is still holding onto them with all its might. Thatattachment and Confucian principles to me explain thecountry’s ability to look after its cultural heritage andprotect it so well. UNESCO recommends their way ofsafe-guarding Intangible Heritage as a model to othercountries. This is why the ICOM 20 th GeneralConference was held in Korea.Perhaps what went the deepest to my heart is theincredible courage of this nation.’ A shrimp betweentwo whales’ is how a local proverb explains Korea. Thewhales being China with its political might and Japanwith its aggressive economy. Japan held Korea captive<strong>for</strong> 35 years, from 1910-1945.At the time of the invasionJapan was a modern military power unlike Koreawhich was a dignified peaceful country wanting to beleft to follow its traditional ways. But South Koreanslearned a lot from Japanese and might be able to matchtheir economic strength. After all economic and militarypower were and are important if you want to beleft in peace.Good buy Korea I will definitely come back. Milasaid she will join me.193

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