department for preventive conservation national ... - WebSajtovi

Seula bio je potpuno napušten u svojoj predivnoj lepoti.Tek tu i tamo neko seoce, stoka, svinje, ovce, ljudi.Poslednji dan u Seulu provele smo u Nacionalnommuzeju koji se od 1996. nalazi u Kraljevskoj palatiGyeongbokgung. Divna velika izložba o kulturiGoguryeo, starog kraljevstva koje je sa kraljevstvimaSile i Baekje vladalo celim Korejskim poluostrvom idobrim delom Mandžurije. Period izmedju 57 g. p.n.e i668. n.e. u korejskoj istoriji je poznat kao period TriKraljevstva. UNESCO je dragocenosti Goguryeo-auneo na Svetsku listu baštine, a izložba je objašnjavalaidentitet drevnog kraljevstva.Bez obzira na politiku, izloža je Mili i meni bila odizvanredne pomoći da bolje shvatimo hronologiju.Goguryeo je prethodio Ujedinjenom kraljevstvuSila što nam je pružilo jasniju sliku korejske kulture do935. godine kada je prestala dominacija Ujedinjenogkraljevstva Sila. U sećanje su mi se urezali murali kojisu prekrivali četiri zida i tavanicu rekonstruisanog staroggroba u Goguryeo-u. Na njima su bile velike scene.Sećam se scene lova prepune neverovatne snage, energijei gotovo nenadmašne lepote. Mada su hronološkiprethodili, po mom mišljenju, slikari Goguryeo kraljevstvadaleko nadmašuju slikare Ujedinjenog kraljevstvaSila.A onda smo ušli u sale sa korejskom keramikom i tusmo ostale. Svaki komad zelene keramike, zvaneseladon iz vremena Goryeo dinastije (918-1279) bio jesavršen. Boju je neko najpreciznije opisao kao “tamnozelenu nijansu žada”. Ljudi su pokušavali da tu specijalnuzelenu boju opišu na različite načine, nazivajućije zelenkasto plavom, kao krila vodomara i slično. Pretoga sam u Gyeongju-u nekoliko sati razgledala žadnajraznovrsnijih nijansi dok sam birala ogrlicu, pa miVečera sa Choi u restoranu sa valjuškamaOur farewell dinner with Choi at a dumpling restauranttowards Seoul we saw just how spectacular they were.From our road we could see chain upon chain of mountainsfilling the horizon and golden valleys far bellow,cradling slow flowing rivers. We kept stopping to takephotographs and to take it all in and store it forever.The whole Korean peninsula is ribbed by forested,rocky mountains. Only 20 percent of the peninsula isflat yet the mountains are not very high. The highestpeak in the mainland South Korea is 1915 meters.Korea is one of the world’s oldest land areas, and assomeone explained the whole peninsula is tiltedtoward the west, then tipping into the Yellow Sea .As aresult the west coast is dotted with hundreds of islands.On the east coast on the other hand the mountains goright to the coast and the shoreline is full of tiny coves.The land between the east coast where we spent thenight and Seoul was utterly lonely in all its splendidbeauty. Hardly any hamlets, cattle, pigs, sheep, people.Our last day in Seoul was spent in and around theNational Museum which has been housed since 1996 inthe grounds of the Gyeongbokgung Royal Palace. Abeautiful large exhibition was on about the culture ofGoguryeo an ancient kingdom which together withkingdoms Baekje and Silla ruled the whole Koreanpeninsula and much of Manchuria. The time of theirrule 57BC -AD 668 is known in Korean history as theThree Kingdoms period. Unesco had registeredGoguryeo relics in the World Heritage List, and theexhibition was trying to clarify the identity of theancient kingdom.Politics aside the exhibition was beautiful and forMila and me perfectly placed in time. Goguryeo hadpreceded Unified Silla and that gave us a better pictureof Korean culture until A.D. 935 which marked the endof the dominance of Unified Silla. What had stayedimprinted on my mind the best were the murals whichcovered four walls and a ceiling of a reconstructed oldtomb of Goguryeo. They were big scenes. I remember ahunting scene full of incredible vigour, energy and ofalmost unsurpassed beauty. Although chronologicallyearlier I thought that the painters of the GoguryeoKingdom surpassed by far the painters of Unified Silla.We then entered the halls with Korean ceramics andnever moved any further. Each Celadon pot of theGoryeo Dynasty Š918-1279Ć was a masterpiece. Thecolour was as I since found it most aptly described ‘thedeep jade shade of green’. Otherwise that particulargorgeous green people tried to describe in differentways calling it greeny blue, kingfisher colour etc .I hadpreviously in Gyeongju spent a few hours looking atlots of different shades of jade trying to buy a necklaceand therefore feel that that description fits it perfectly.Mila and I took a long time with each pot. Quite a fewof the Celadon pots were marked as National TrasuresThat was the Korean way of pointing to excellence.The White pottery of the Joseon Dynasty (AD 1392-192